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f i f- 1 ... THE CUBAN PORTS; Beleaguered Cities and Their Coveted Harbors, ABOUT PUERTO RICO AND SAN JUAN, West Indian Spanish Cities, Blockaded and Otherwise, That Are Now the Cynosure of All EyesHavana, Bahia A !- Ranking among tbe foremost seaports and coinmeroiul marts of tbe world Ha vana, tbe capital and great maritime city of Cuba, lies on the west side of a beautiful bay of tbe gulf of Mexico. Havana is upon tbe northwest coast of the island, almost due south and HO miles distant from Kay West Tbe number of its inhabitants, owing to the peculiar. mode of census taking in its colonies by tbe Spanish government, is not definitely known, but probably it comprises 800,000 people, white and black. The city stands on a sort of pen insula formed on one side by the bay and on tbe other by tbe waters of the gnlf of Mexioo. Within tbe past two years Spain has squandered vast sums on what it con siders the strengthening of Havana's fortifications, but in spite of all that the town is in do position to repel any serious attack by land or sea. Havana's defenses facing the sea may be divided into two parts, those at tbe entrance of and in tbe barbor and those which have been recently put up along the coast east and west of the mouth of tbe har bor. The most widely known of all Havana's forts is tbe celebrated Morro Castle at tbe western entrance of tbe port. - A century or more ago its tre mendous bastions, bristling with ' the heaviest and deadliest artillery of tbe age, bade defianoe to all the navies of the world. Today the once terrible Morro is used as a prison aud is practi cally worthless for defense of the city. On tbe eastern Bbore of tbe harbor rise the walls of tbe fortress known as La Cabana. They run from he southern sally port of the Morro to the village of Casa Blanca in an oubroken palisade of gray aud white stone, enlivened here and tbere with spatters of brilliant red. There are newly made sand batteries along the western and eastern shores of tbe bay and to tbe passage from the outer sea. Jlost of the guns in the Span ish fortifications are of antiquated mod el, the old smoothbore Parrott guns be ing a large element in the armament There are, however, a considerable Bomber of heavy Krupp gnus of ap proved model, wbicb in the bands of good gunners might give trouble to an attacking fleet, but as most of these guns are mounted en barbette, with no protection to gun or guune.-, a well directed fire from the vessels wculd soon render them useless. Tbe value of tbe Spaniards' mines and torpedoes with which the harbor is supposed to be fill ed will proLably soon be thoroughly tested. Under the present blockade by United States vessels commerce is of course at an end in tbis great port. Within tbe city (he usual gayeties prevail among tbe wealthy Spanish population aud tbe civil and military officers, while Spanish soldiers Are on short rations and pacificos in the ruburbs are starv ing. Tbere is much of magnificence as cf squalor in tbis great city that soon may be shattered by a bombardment. Though some portions cf Havana make yon think that tbe world bas gone back a few hundred years, the city cf today has a surprising air of newness. All that extensive fpsce which until re cently was core j. led by the old walls Honda, Matanzas and Santiago nas been built tip with great establish ments and palatial residences fronting on a newly laid park, or "boulevard," as it is called. Tliis is the celebrated Prado. There is an old town and a new town, the former inside tbe ancient limits, with its excessively narrow, badly paved, dirty and vile smelling streets, always densely thronged in tbe morn ing, tbe latter pervaded all day by an aristocratio stillness, but blossoming forth wonderfully after nightfall. Here is tbe Paseo de Isabel, the finest thor oughfare in Havana, crossing tbe city from end to end, flanked by tine bouses, with a double row of trews aud spacious carriageways and many fountains aud statues. The Paseo de Tacon, laid out in tbe same way, forms a continuation of this drive aud lends to tbe Botanical garden. The governor general's palace is in this pHseo, where tbe captain geu eral and bis staff have an office for the transaction of public business, as well as tbeir residence. SANTIAGO DE CUBA. One the Capital or Cuba and Still On of Ita Great f'ltlea. At the bead of a fine bayon, formed by tbe widening of the Santiago river at its mouth on the southeast coast of Cuba, lies tbe city of Santiago de Cuba, tbe second town in political rank and tbe third in commercial importance in tbe island. It was in early times tbe capital of Cuba, and it is still the cap ital of the eastern department and of SANTIAGO DE CUBA. tbe province bearing its own name. The city is situated on tbe side of a hill ltul feet above the bay. Tbe streets are bad and many of them are very steep, but all are lighted at night by gas end are lined with well built stone bouses. The city is supplied with bad water through an aqueduct, aud as it is shut in from tbe northern breezes by mountains the suffocating heat and tbe miasmatio effluvia from adjacent marshes render it tbe n.ost nnhealtbfnl abode in the Antilles. Tbe harbor, although one of the best in America, is difficult of nc cess, owing to tbe narrowness of the entrance. It is defended by four forts. West of tbo city, 12 miles distant, are the extensive copper mines of El Cabre, which export annually more than 25, 000 tons. The other exports ce coffee, sugar and molasses. Tbe port, four miles in length, is well sheltered and is deep enough fcr ships of tbe line. Santiago de Cuba is connected by rail and telegraph with the principal towns on the island. Tbe city's population is 45,000. The bills which inclose Santiago on three sides, rising rapidly from the bay to mountains of great height aud beauty, are lovely to look upon aud aflord ex cellent drainage to the city. Starting at the shore, tbe narrow streets run steeply up tbe hillsides 1.'0 feet or more, and appear to Lave never teen repaired since the days of Velasquez, the found er of the city. Tropical rains bave washed great gutters down tbeni, in some piaces three or four feet deep, and the traffic of nearly 400 years bas up rooted the original cobblestones aud worn dangerous pitfalls and mantraps. de Cuba, Tbe street in which tbe American con sul lived before bis withdrawal one of the principal thoroughfares is not passable at all for vehicles, nor for horsemen after dark, aud to walk through it at any time is almost at tbe risk of one's neck. Most of tbe streets are lined with cement sidewalk from 10 to 15 inches wide, but some of them have no sidewalks, aud jttdestriau are obliged to take the road, where naked children are always playing in tbe streams of offensive water that percolate through the broken stoues. It is no wonder that this city has the reputation of being the most unhealthy place in Cuba. Hemmed in by mountains, with all this filth fettering in tbe sun, tbe surprise is not that yellow fever makes an annual visit and carries off many victims, but that it doe not remain tbe year around. Wbeu tbe rains descend, these almost perpendicular alleys are sometimes filled with torrents of such impetuosity that no one can cross them on foot, aud even horsemen hesitate to climb them. Tbe city might easily have an inexhaustible supply of pure cold water if only there were sufficient enterprise among tbo citizens to cause it to be brought in pipes from the neigh boring heights. But Santiago remains wretchedly deficient in this respect, though there is much suffering and ill health from lack of this prime necessity Referring to tbe name by wbicb tbe ancient city is kuown, it should be said that San Jago, San Diego, Santiago, arc really tbe same name, rendered James in our luuguage, and wherever the Span iards have been then- are dozens of tbem. By the way, tbo harsh sounding word which . we say for Cuba is not at all that which the discoverer bestowed upon the largest island of the Antilles but should be prououueed as if spelled Koo-bah.. Historically Santiago de Cuba is memorable mainly for tbe French occu pation aud ransom in 153:!, and tbe affair of tbe Virginias, which occurred just 20 years ago and resulted in the Spanish government's paying an indem nity to the United States for the mur der of Captain Fry and bis companions. Santiago bas also been the seat of most of Cuba's modern rebellious against the arbitrary aud bitterly oppressive rule of the home government, an 1 n loop line of patriots, shot on the rampart of Morro Castle, overhanging tiie har bor, have furnished food for sharks. In the hurbor of Santiago de Cute lies the wreck of the old St. Paul, out of the ships of tbe Spanish armaria, which Philip II sent to Knglnnd in tin year 1588. It wasoue of the few of that famous flotilla which escaped destruc tion at tbe time iu a tremendous gale that tore the armada to pieces. After a checkered career, in which the St. Pau; breasted tbe waves of innumerable sea: and withstood the storai of three cen turies, sbe was sent over to perform some government service forthebpau ish colonies in America. Being caught in a hcrricaue somewhere off the coa;; of South Caroliua, she was driven f ir southward an.1 finally put in at Suntiag-i in great distress. Here i,!:a wns ran ashore, aud for many years affervra:;! figured as a guardship, looking .a-- trim as ever, UDtil, not long ago, some van dal set fire to her and she was burned to the water's edge. Now she is par tially visible only at low tide, ber ribs and stanchions still held together by the stout keel timbers and lower sheath ing. CARDENAS AND BAHIA HONDA Two Porta That Arc Mnch Tallied About In These Day. Situated in one of tbe finest sugar producing districts in the West Indies and 103 miles east of Havana is tbe maritime city of Cardenas. Although comparatively a modern town, having been founded in 1828, it baa grown so rapidly as to be at present one of the principal commercial centers of the island. It is the capital of the civil dis trict of its own name in tbe western department, and it has a population of about 11,000, comprising 7,700 whites and 3,800 negroes. Tbe streets of Car denas are broad, regularly laid ont and lighted with gas. A spaoions square in the center is embellished with a bronze statue of Columbus, and tbe city's houses, a number of which bave two stories, are neat, well built and solid. Tbe port, protected by a neck of land stretching northwest of the city, though shallow, is nin) odious aud is much fre quented by shipping. Tbe loading of vesels is much facilitated by a number of good wharfs extending for the most part a long distance from the shore. ' Cardenas is the headquarters of tbe military district It is connected by rail , : BAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO. with Havana aud Matanzas in one di rection and with Oucaro in tbe opposite direction. Several lines of steamers ply to various other points. At a time short ly prior to tbe recent opening of hostili ties between the Ui. d States and Spain a large proportion 4t tbe mercan tile community in Cardenas was Amer ican. , To its enterprise the city main ly owed its importance, aud so general ly bas this been acknowledged that a common name for tbe place bas long been "the American city." The chief exports are sugar, molasses aud coffee. Before the outbreak of tbe latest Cuban revolution 115,000 boxes of sugar were on an average furnished annually from single one of the surrouudiug planta tions. Bahia Houda (Deep Bay) is a harbor of Cuba on the north coast of tbe island, 60 miles west southwest of Havana. Its deep, landlocked waters afford an ex cellent barbor, but from its situation in respect to the commercial productions of Cuba and its advantages over Havana for trade with Europe and tbe United States tbe city baa not attained great proportion. Tbe facilities for landing filibustering expeditions there and sup plies for the insurgents have compelled the Spauiards to maintain a vigilant patrol before Babia Honda, and now in the present war tbe United States ships keep careful watch of that harbor dur ing tbe blockade of the Cuban ports. THE PORT OF MATANZAS. Ita Forts Were Recently Reduced bjr the Dnited State Fleet. Fifty-two miles east of Havana, at tbe mouth of tbe San Joan river, lies tbe seaport city Matanzas, whose fortifica tions were so rudely battered by three ships of Admiral Sampson's blockading fleet a sbort time ago. The harbor is spacious, easy of access and well shel tered' except to tbe northeast, from which quarter a heavy swell sometimes rolls in. Tbe surrounding country com prises tbe richest part of tbe island. being covered with magnificent sugar estates. Tbo climate though hot is salu brious. Matanzas is situated on a flat I - I MATANZAS, td-rtsr 3?-,gra''5------ issasASS-a&gC?-- I t',itS-.- , cn fcotH sides of the river. The hon?M 'are substantially tuilt. mostly of stone, i .-;! cn ontim nhsence of architec tural beauty. For defense the castle of San Severiuo and several land batteries are relied on. For commercial impor tance Matanzas ranks next to Havana, and it is connected by railways with Havana, Cardenas and other principal towns on tbe island. Prior to the outbreak of the last rev ii,,fi,m in flnhn Matanzas bad a popula tion of 50,000, but this in the suburbs bas been largely increased by the hud dling there of helpless pacificos driven in from the rural districts by General Wevler's oldiers to starve. The valley of the Ymnuri. one of the most beautiful in the world, may be seen from the decks of ships coming into the bay of Matanzas. Then it appears as a long, deep cut between two ridges of hills, but its full beauty and rich ness are not apparent till the valley is seen from above. The ridge by the val ley is a favorite point of observation for i,.ir..(.ra The climb CD the bill to tbo church which the devout Catalans have erected for votive offerings to the Virgin of Monserrat is a toilsome one. The height once reached, a magnificent panorama bel"v unfolds itself. THE CITY OF CIENFUEGOS. It I a Ileantlfnl Spot and I IK-fended bjr a Fort. On tbe south side of the island of Cuba, ISO miles southeast of Havana, is the city of Cieufueeos, one of tb most beantiful on the island. It bas a population' of 10,000 aud is capital of n jurisdiction in tbe department of tbe center. Tbe barbor, which is capacious aud safe, is defended by the fort of Los Angeles. The streets are wide and traigbt, aud many of the houses are surrounded by gardens. Railways con nect tbe town witbCardeuas end Sagua la (Jrunde on the north coast Ciuu futgos was founded iu 1813 aud was ! uurned from the captain general of Cuba at that time. In the general devastation I of tbe island, tbe destruction of prop : eriy aud tbe stopping of all business iu j (lustriea during the efforts of the Span- revolution Ctenfuegos and its environ ing districts have suffered less than most other localities. SAN JUAN IN PUERTO RICO. It la tli I'riacipe.1 CUj of Ilia Island and I Well Defended. Favored in some respects above all other islands of the Greater Antilles is Puerto Rico, tbe smallest and most easterly of the group. It is separated from Santo Domingo on the west by the Mon a passase, in which lies tbe island of Mona, and from the Virgin islauds on tbe east by tbe Virgin passage, in which are Vieque and Culebra islands. In chape tbe island is nearly a rectan gle, the length of which east and west is OH miles aud tbe breadth north and south about 86 miles. It lies wholly within the tropics, und its area, includ ing its dependencies, the three islauds nnined, is ,.30 square miles. Itscoasts ore peneraily regular, let there are u acy Lays and iultls, nnd the north coast contains i:mi;y navigable lagoons. Wl ile the capita), Ponce, is tbe )ar-g-st city uf the island, San Juan is tie principal seaport, and a special in terest cttacbes to this celebrated b;rbor tocHy iu the desire cf hpain to bold it end cf the United States to obtain ii as a base cf naval supplies, for it is the pafcviiy ii.to Puerto Kica As sct u from tbe aca Scu Jcnn con sists nhiK st entirely of a series of mass- WHICH WAJ RECENTLY BOMBARDED. ive fortifloations that collectively form the castle, as tbe Spauiards call all tbeir big forts, although this bas lit tle of the appearance that is commonly supposed to belong to a castle. It is, town a city of forts and batteriet, all bnilt of stone, rising one above an. other, crowding and jotlig each oth er. Wben it was built, it must bbve been uearly impregnable, and evn now, although modern guns would soon r. duce the stone works, tbe place could in a few days, from itB commanding situation and other natural advantage!, be made a stronghold. Tbe town lies on a rocky peninsula, shaped like the narrow end of a long' curved squash. This peninsula is au is land, in fact, being separated from tbe mainland by an insignificant iulet a few miles down tbe coast. In front of the peninsula is the sea, behind it tbe bar bor. Tbe land rises somewhat abruptly to a height of perhaps 200 or 250 f.t. On tbe seaward slope are tbe fortifica tions, on the harbor slope is the titv. On tbe slept toward tbe harbor so smull a space is left that the houses are crow . ed together aud are in general taller than West IudinD houses. In erhV.ti o to the earths, or perhaps as part of tb:it fortification, a great wall was bo:lt around the city, which is kept in en h good order that it is as perfect today is it was a century ago. The city, how. ? er, bas outgrown tbe wall and wn:j buildings are now outside. San Juan has about 30.0(10 inhabit ants and its commerce is large. It i tie I haat kent and nlnanest citv I have seen in any Spanish country. It has not the wealth or the grandeur of Havana, but it is in mnch better order. Tbe streeu are' broader than in the old parts of Ha vana, there is a good system of sewer age and plenty of lights, both gas and electric. There are good broad sidewalk! aud well paved roadways. The hooses are mostly of brick or stone, cemented on the outside, and this cement is kept iu good repair and well psiu'od or wbitewssbed. Rainwater is us?d ex clusively, caugbt from the roofs ani stored in stone tanks. This is tbe granl city of Puerto Rico, aud the Puerto Ei catis are justly proud of it. rarely call iug it by its name, bnt sneaking of it always as "tbe city" or "el capital." Iu Suu Juan and Pnerta Rico gener ally oue finds a climate where tbo ther mometer never falls below 60 degrees aud seldom rises above 80. Owing to ita favorable position hurricanes do not disturb Puerto Rico; earthquakes are ou kuown here; snakes and other venom ous creatures are as scarce as in Ireland, and there nre plenty of places in the bigl'lunds where yellow fever and kin dred diseases cannot come. Though Puerto Rico is populated to the number of 809,000 mainly by au educated cla" of Spaniards, with a mixture of Creoles, Germans, French, Danes, Swedes and Russians, und a modicum of Cbiuess, Canary islanders and Cbnrtas, cr de scendants cf the Moorish Jews frcia Majorca tbero is plouty cf room f' more, aud. unlike most cf tbe islands, tbere are a pood many more white uti zens than I lack ones. The official society of San Juan is headed by bis excellency the captain geuerul, appointed by tbe Spanish crown to govern the island, and his assistants, the junta of military officers, who are also crown appointees. The captain gen eral is president of the royal audieucia, or assembly, and tbe members of the cortes are drawn from the seven colonies into wbicb tbe island is divided one representative for so many hundred in habitants. There normally are 3,566 regular troops garrisoned in the ilorro, besides a reserve militia. W'4, v?V - - I (