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San Antonio light and gazette. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1909-1911, June 06, 1909, Image 15

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Latest New York
Fads and Fashions
Special Dispatch.
New York. June 5. — Rumors are com
ing from Paris that with the revival
of the Louis XV. ami Louis XVI. styles'
the separate skirt gathered at the waist
to a hand, and the pointed bodice over
it will be worn; but. so far as this sum ;
mer’s frocks are concerned, one-piece'
effects will be the invariable rule. In
deed. the distinction and eharm of a
lingerie costume depend on this one- I
piece effect, the white dress with waist
and skirt joined under a ribbon, sash ;
or belt savoring entirely too much of I
the bucolic toilet which is wont to ap-1
pear in starched splendor at church j
picnics and other rural summer pleasur-1
ings. The one-piece lingerie frock, how-1
ever, when in stately trailing length
and of sufficient elegance of character,
becomes at once a costume of distinc
tion, and when it is accompanied by ap
propriate accessories in the way of a
picture hat, parasol and long, embroid-;
cred silk gloves, it is a veritable grande I
toilet and quite suitable for the most
particular occasion.
Some dressmakers, to insure a perfect ।
fit to these filmy frocks, which, on the;
one hand, must cling to the figure, yet
on the other, not appear drawn or scant |
in any way, make them up over care-1
fully fitted muslin linings, the lining
being elipped away w’hen the frock is j
completely finished. If a colored slip'
is to be worn beneath such a frock, as j
is the ease with most of the costumes j
designed for formal wear, this slip is ;
built of the sofest possible silk or of
inessaline satin in princess style and '
fitted to the figure by gores and darts. I
It is sleeveless and has the neck cut
out in a decided decolletage. A rather [
scant flounce finishes the bottom of the
slip, this flounce being edged with a 1
narrow frill of lace; for there must be ।
no harsh lines or straight hems under |
the lifted fluffiness of a lingerie frock. .
Under this little silken slip goes only
one petticoat, and though this petticoat'
may have two or three lacy flounces at ;
the feet to give a fascinating frou-frou
Monday and all week we will place on sale hundreds of
Trimmed Hats at prices never before placed on millinery
of like character.
The prices will be as magnetic as the styles are classic.
This includes Pattern Hats as well as the clever designs
of the Edwards store. We’re long on quantity, style
and assortments. The prices have on the other hand
been abbreviated. Both hats and prices will prove to
your liking—come.
We are showing new Sailors, Tailored and Traveling
Hats such as’you’ll want on that summer vacation of
Pique and embroidery are combined
in the dress worn by the girl with the
parsol. The waist is gathered at the
belt but the gathers are concealed be
neath the bretelies. These are cut
from embroidery edging with a nar
row frill of embroidery around the
inside edge. Long eyelets are worked
in the edges and a pink ribbon laced
through them.
k The skirt is straight pleated with
’ two box pleats in the front. The
curved belt gives a pretty flare to the
pleats. This pattern. No. 460, is cut
in four sizes, 6. 8, 10 and 12 years.
Number 419 is cut in two pieces,
sewed together with a bias seam in
the front. This gives more fullness
in the front than there is in similar
dresses cut in one piece. Red and
white striped gingham with embroid
ered ruffles and insertion were the
materials used and a red sash and
ribbons are worn. The pattern is cut
in three sizes, 4, 6 and 8 years.
' The Jittle one in the chair wears a
plain box pleated dress of brown linen
with revers of white, trimmed with
embroidery edging, done in navy blue
on white. The pattern No. 455 is
cut in three sizes. 4, 6 and 8 years.
Number 458 is a dainty house gown
of white dimity with trimming
band of the ame material, tucked
before cutting. The ruffles are made
of bias strips of sheer white lawn and
pearl buttons are used for a closing.
This pattern is cut in five sizes, 32
to 40 bust measure. These patterns
are 10 cents each. Send orders, giv
ing number and size, to Pattern De
partment of this newspaper.
effect about the ankles, there will be
but one layer of fabric over the hips,
and that of the sheerest batiste, for it
i' must always be kept in miud —no mat
ter what the nature of the costume —
that hips are ont of the question.
So the laee-tri aimed petticoat has its
flounce set on a deep yoke of sheerest
' ntull. and at the head of the flounce is a
, heading with a colored ribbon, which
shows through the thin stuff of the
dress. Transparent gowns this summer
) will be very frank in showing the blue,
I pink or lavender bowknots on the inti-
I mate garments beneath, and Parisienues
following the present craze for black,
are running narrow black velvet
through their lingerie.
Revival of Foulard.
The renaissance of the foulard comes
as a boon to womankind, for never was
there a material more practical for gen
eral warm weather service, combining
। beauty, coolness and durability. There
are, of course, various qualities of fou
; lard and consequently varying grades
of beauty in the material. But. it
, pays to buy a good quality, and very
; fair grades may be picked up at prices
exceedingly moderate. The handsomer
foulards, lustrous, light of weight, ex
| quisite of color, are more expensive,
i but these arc usually woven in double
i width so that though the price may
I seem high, the amount of material re-
I quired, is much less. The finer foulards
now have the design woven throughout,
' so that the effect of a printed design,
once the chief reproach against the
material, is done away with.
Among the imported models in fou
lard rather large white dots set closely
' together on a ground of soft color, have
held first place, and all the fashionable
I dressmakers, following the Parisian
i lead, have used much of this dotted fou
; lard in double width and exquisite
quality. The best of it has not the high ;
satin lustre, though it has a lovely 1
j sheen and is wonderfully supple.
All of the most modish colors have
been brought out in this foulard, and
West Commerce
| certain shades of soft rose, yellow,
mauve and blue are especially liked,
1 while dark blue and white and black 1
and white are favorites for more gen
| eral wear. Other designs, of course, are
in evidence and many are very attrac-
j tivc. Variation from the conventional
. dot has been made in little oval or;
square figures springled, as are the dots,
on a plain ground, and even more am
bitious designs, combined with brocad
ed backgrounds, are shown.
Pongee is as popular as foulard and,
like the latter, is used for all sorts of
costumes, from the simplest princess
trotteur to the elaborate bridge frock
or visiting frock, covered with a wealth
of embroidery. For hard wear it will
pay to buy a pongee of good quality,
not too light and of smooth surface.
Some of the rough surface pongees are
very good looking, but they are quickly
soiled Highly lustrous pongees of ex
tremely light weight are not practical
for general wear and are suited only
for more elaborate frocks, The cheaper
' grades of the thin pongees are not par-
I ticularly desirable for any purpose. All
; of the lovely colors are introduced into
Ilie pongees, but the natural tone is still
] first favorite and has the advantage of'
I looking cooler than almost any other
shads •
Lunens In Demand.
Linens were never more in demand
1 and certainly never were so varied in
1 weave and color. lu no other material
have the dyers achieved greater
triumphs than in this one, and in the
work rooms one sees linen frocks and
suits in all the colors of the season's
card. Certain wood-tones medium shades
of half gray, half brown, with a dash
of green—are considered especially
chic in linen, and the ash grays are
next to them in popularity. All the wis
tarias and queer fruity lavenders and
purples, the off toues in rose, the odd
blues, the coppery browns and gold and
mustard and khaki yellows, the almond
and pistaehe and absinthe greens, all
these colors and many others may be
found in linens this season.
The medieval mode and its enthu
siastic promotion by Paquin and Red
ferns has some influence on even the
j frivolous summery frocks. Authoritn
' live Moyen Age frocks are shown in
' Paris, made of sheerest mull with
c;.irasses—or fitted basques to the hip
, —made of heavy all-over embroidery,
closely shaped to the figure; the long
trailing skirt and tucked sleeves be
ing of a softer material. Little boleros
of the heavy all-over work are also
seen on the lingerie frocks of soft mull, j
and some of these frocks show skirts
gathered all around at the waistline to |
this little fitted bolero in tight-fitting
style. This is a typical Marie Antoin- J
ette or “Louis” style and is an authori j
tative indication of what is coming.
Cherries and plums in all states of I
greenness, ripeness and decay, have
again become popular and are used ex- [
tensively for hat decoration. ,
Silk and wool fishnet is another of!
the new mixtures to be had in well
stocked shops and are used for many j
It seems that white linen will be
worn less this sumcmr than in former ;
seasons, but gray, tan, khaki and even
darker shades will be extremely popu
Daggers of tortoise shell, and studded I
with artificial stones are among the j
most popular hair ornaments of the day.
Coiffures continue to be very flat on
top, and a center parting is very much !
affected. I i
“Miss Tersleep,” began Mr. Stop
late. impressively.
She yawned and wearilv answered:
“When I leave you tenight—”
“Oh.” she interrupted. “So you
intend to come tonight, too, do you?”
He looked at the clock and -went away
। from there.
Irritated Landlady—What seems to
Ibe the matter with yonr coffee this
| morning, Mr. Harris* Do you notice
- anything unusual about it ‘
Tmperturable Boarder—l do, Mrs.
Trons. There's some real coffee in it
1 this morning. ,
More than 500 suffrage meetings
have been planned to take place in Lon
don during the month of May.
Mrs. George B. Reid was elected pres
ident at the recent annual meeting of
the Chicago Woman’s club of New York
I city and the treasurer reported so large
la balance on hand that it was decided
to send a substantial donation to the
Little Mothers' Aid association. This
donation is to he used in carrying on
the regular work of the association dur
ing the summer months.
The Martha Washington chib, com
posed of children from the People's
Institute and Public School <5.3, won
the cup given every year by Mrs. Emil
L. Boas for patriotic singing. The con
test for this prize is under the manage
ment of the City History club of New
York, of which Mrs. Robert Abbe is
The Woman's League of Scotland re
cently passed a resoluion in favor of
woman suffrage, with only one dissent
ing vote.
The girls of the geological depart
ment of Barnard college are planning to
take a two weeks’ tramp through the
mountains this summer. Miss Ida Ogil
vie is head of the department and the
class is always under her care on these
trips, for which the students receive
credit in their regular college work. I
Miss Ogilvie took her degree of A. B.
at Byrn Mawr, where she studied geol
ogy under Dr. Bascom. She then took 1
a course at Columbia, where she receiv- j
ed her degree as Ph. D. When she went |
to Barnard there were only five pupils
in her department. Now there are more
than ten times that number. During the
college term the students take weekly ।
trips around New York, out on Long!
Island and down the Jersey coast.
The Public Service League of Women,
led by Mrs. Martha A. B. Coinee, has
just finished a successful fight against
an ordinance which it alleged had been
sneaked through the Denver board of
aidermen to permit the feeding of brew
ery swill to milch eows. In spite of the
efforts of the breweries the aldermen
killed the bill by a unanimous vote and
passed a vote of thanks to the women
who had opposed it.
When suffrage was first granted to the
women of New Zealand it is said that
only one in every five inhabitants had
a bank account. The average amount,of
the deposits was $1315. Now, after a
lapse of fifteen years of equal suffrage,
more than one person in every three
has a bank account and the average
amount is more than $352. The advo
cates of equal suffrage in this country
and England are calling the attention
of the antis to these facts when the lat
ter declare that votes for women means
the ruin of business prosperity.
Horehound Syrup
Mr. J. E. Ryan, Editor Berwick Regis
ter. Berwick, La., writes:—! have used ,
Ballard's Horehound Syrup Compound in ;
my family for several years, and find it to ,
be a splendid remedy.
I heartily recommend it to those sufferinc (
from couxhs and colds.
I also recommend it as a safe cure for ctul- (
dren when suffering from croup or whoop- .
ing cough. ■
Three Sizes, 25c, 50c and $l.OO .
•Of Sold and Recommended by
El* • "I
Wigs—Toupees A Specialty
By Harold Carter.
“Ivan Ivanovitch!” called the pres
ident of the immigration commissioners
at Ellis Island.
There was a stir in the little crowded
room, where some dozen of alleg 'd un
desirables,'lately landed, were waiting
to hear their fate. A Russian woman,
pretty and young, but emaciated and
bearing the marks of extreme poverty
leaned forward, her eyes fixed upon
the defendant. Onee she sprang up and
essayed to speak, but the attendants
sternly restrained her.
Then counsel for the Russian govern
ment entered their objection. Ivan
Ivanovitch, it appeared, was a notorious
criminal who was “wanted” at home
for numerous murders and robberies,
His claim to be a political fugitive was
altogether without foundation. More
'over, Ivan Ivanovitch was not his real
name. Wherefore, might it please the
court to order his deportation.
Then, slowly and laboriously, through
the interpreter. Ivan Ivanovitch told
his story. At first he spoke in his dull,
heavy, witless peasant's accents; gradu
ally, however, at the recital of his
wrongs, his speech caught fire.
”1 was a member of the people’s
army operating in Livonia to put down
the tyranny of the czar,” he began.
“For fourteen months we fought
against the czar's army, struggling in
defense of our homes and liberties. But
what can a handful do against thous
ands? So it was not long before they
had ringed us round with steel, and
day and night the skies were aflame
with the light of our burning farms and
“The commanding general of the
czar’s troops was called 'The Red
Wolf.’ His hair and beard were red
der than fire, and he was like a raven
ing monster let loose among us.
“At last they came into the village
where we lived —myself and Katia, my
betrothed, and her parents. Now the
revolt was over and the executioner’s
work had begun.
“I had fled to the woods with the
last remnant of our hand. I could
I have escaped; the way was open. I
should have done so had I not heard
that Katia's father and mother were
dead —shot as they ran from their
burned homestead—-and Katia a pris
oner in the Red Wolf’s hands, with
four and twenty hours to choose which
of two fates should happen to her.
“Then I knew nothing save that this
man must die, as wolves are killed. 80
‘So I Began Pleading for Mercy While
He Frowned and Sneered—and
Puffed the Cigar.”
I let his soldiers come upon me. ap
parently sleeping, upon the outskirts of |
the forest; and they led me, laughing
I significantly, to his tent.
“One thing I noticed with joy during
my trial. He had a big box of cigars
open before him. just as I had been told, j
and smoked incessantly. And when I
asked that I might smoke one of his
cigars he looked at me in amazement
and with a grin that laid bare his gums,
burled one into my face. A soldier
gave me a match, and I lit it with de
liberation; laid it down; took it up;
laid it down again—but each time in I
closer proximity to his. And finally,]
as he laid his down once more to turn ;
and consult with his colonels before i
sentencing me to bo hurried out and ,
shot, I took up his own cigar; and |
when he turned to sentence me he took |
up mine and puffed—slowly and delib
“ ‘Do you want to say anything be
fore you diel' asked the Wolf, strok
ing his red beard with an affectation
of judicial impartiality.
“I thought of Katia and nerved my
self to begin. For. gentlemen, half
wav down my cigar was a fuse, and,
half an inch behind it, a full charge
of cordite rammed into a soldered
sheath. And. once let the fire melt the '
solder, and God pity the smoker.
“So, I began, pleading for mercy,
while he frowned and sneered and
sneered and puffed at his cigar and
laid it down and took it up again. And,
almost imperceptibly, the fire crept
down. Now it was almost upon the
“ ‘Enough,’ he shouted. ‘Will the
fool babble for&ver! Take him away.’
Miss Frieda Englchardt
Direct Importer of Human Hair Goods
Ladies’ Hair Dresser and Wig Maker
Shampooing Parlor. Manicuring, Face Massage,
Scalp Treatment, Hair Dyeing.
Manufacturer of Hair Goods |
Terrell Bldg. 212 Avenue D New Phone 1003
“I begged. I prayed, I clung to the
soldiers. And the Red Wolf swore a
great oath and drew in hingfulls of
smoke between his teeth. And sudden
ly I heard the hiss of the fuse and
dropped flat to the floor—
“My hair was scorched from my
head, but I was uninjured. And of all
that tentful of soldiers not one re
mained to detain me. As for him, not
one little shred ever was found. So I
escaped easily and fled hither, where I
was told the girl had preceded me, hav
ing been set free after the Red Wolf
| died. Now I must find her”—
The Russian woman sprang to her
feet and screamed. Ivan Ivanovitch
started and swung around.
“Katia! ” he cried.
“Pass them,” said the chief of the
commissioners, after a brief consulta
tion. “Next case.”
Bread keeps better in a wooden box
than in one of tin.
A few drops of lemon juice will make
, cake frosting very white.
Fingers stained by peeling juicy
fruits may be quickly cleaned with
strong tea. rubbed in’well with a nail
Today the Proverb for which
the usual prizes will be offered
will be found in the small wants
and real estate advertisements of
the Sunday Light.
$25 in Prizes
$lO.OO Cash to First Correct Answer
$5.00 Cash to Second Correct Answer
Tan Prizes of $1 Each to Next 10 Correct Answers
The words of the Sunday Light and Gazette Hidden Proverb
is inserted in various classified and real estate advertisements in the
Sunday Light and Gazette of June 6, where they may be discovered
by careful examination. They are distinguished from the context
by underscoring, by quotation marks, by different type or in some
other way.
Twenty-five dollars and various other prizes will-be given to the
Contestants mnst state in their answers the advertisement in
which each word of the proverb appears. Only one word of the proverb
to be credited to one advertisement.
This is an absolutely free competition. No entrance fee of any
kind, direct or indirect, required. No coupon needed. It is not even
necessary to be a subscriber or reader of the Light and Gazette. Tell
your friends who may not read the Light and Gazette about it. They
are eligible.
Only women and girls are eligible to receive prizes, as this is par
ticularly a feminine contest. They may secure assistance, of course,
from the sterner sex.
All answers MUST BE addressed to Proverb Editor. Answers
sent by special delivery or registered mail are not eligible. This is
fair to all. In order to render unnecessary the securing of papers un
duly early Sunday morning, the first collection of mail will not bo
made until 12 o’clock noon on Sunday. In case of ties, the neatness
with which solutions are prepared will determine the awards. No
prizes will be divided. No answers received after 6 p. m. Tuesdays
can compete. Successful contestants will be named by the Light and
Gazette on Thursday and checks for the prizes forwarded. The di
eision of the Proverb Editor will be final in all cases.
JUNE 6. 1909.
E. L. FRANCOIS, Manager
brush. They should then be rinsed in
warm water.
A little flour dredged over the top
of a cake will keep the icing from run
After washing lamp chimneys roll
■ them with dry salt, which will givi,
a brilliant polish to the glass.
There should be just as much com
science put into the dusting of a rooM
as in managing an estate properly.
To cause the whites of eggs to corns
to a frith quickly, a pinch of sal
should bo added to the eggs while beat
Early rising means practically «
whole day's work done before noniw
a consideration that hot weather maker
To test the purity of coffee, pour
cold water on it. If the water
a brownish hue, the coffee undoubtedly
contains chicory.
The tender leaves and small endfr
of the stalks of celery should never ha
thrown away. If dried they are found
excellent for flavoring soups.

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