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WITH THE HOUSEWIFE
There is no room in a Mexican oine so radically different from merican rooms as the kitchen. The ocina contains no wood range or eater, but a long, flat charcoal grate, lade of tiling or bricks, that serves s a stove. Frequently these are lade of pale blue and white tiling, r of spotless white, and consequently hey are very neat in appearance, "ome are red, with paintings of white r blue about them; rather ornate or such utilitarian purposes. The cook stands before the opening n the sides of this charcoal oven, with i small woven fan, and coaxes the lame into boiling the frijoles which "ill the red earthenware pot, resting n the grate over the coals. Suppose (American housekeepers waited for ooks to fan their stoves! The matter of cooks in a Mexican kitchen is always a plural one, since an entire kitchen full may be obtained almost as easily and cheaply as the cheap clay ware in use for utensils. Half a dozen cooks to a small kitchen are frequently found. As a rule, they are dirty and slow, but well trained. Each can do but one part of the work, except in particular instances. Their hours are from early morning to eleven at night,( and never a holiday except to go to mass each feast day.) The kitchen ware of a Mexican kitchen, even among the better class, is a very simple affair. There are no tin, copper, or agate ware dishes; only two or three large earthenware bowls (ollas), some flat dishes of the same material, the small jarros that are somewhat like pitchers, a set of wooden spoons, the metate and mol cahate for the tortillas and salsas. A few other small pieces such as the wooden beaters for the chocolate, and the little oddly-colored and oddly shaped clay ware constitute the rest of the kitchen supply. Dining room dishes are practically When Baking Powder Sharpers come to your home and try to iool you with the fake water glass test Show Them the Door The United States court in Idaho has declared the comparative water glass test a fraud. This is the test they use on you to get an order for their baking powder. Do not waste your time on Sharpers. Keep your hand on your pocket book. Buy a baking powder which does not contain albumen (sometimes called white of egg.) The fake water glass test is never used by a baking powder company unless their goods contain albumen. Mucilage or soap root also makes this fake test possible. K C Baking Powder contains no albumen, (sometimes called white of egg) no fake tests to annoy you in your home. Guaranteed pure and honest value. Ounces For (More than a pound and a half for a quarter) 25c Jaques Mfg. Company, Chicago \mmmm MILLINERY New Trimmed Dress Hats— . $5 to $7.50 values— To sell lor $3.50 and $5.00— Friday & Saturday Misses' and Children's Hats and Tarns at Reduced Prices Vogue Millinery wmssmsm the same as our own. Many families even of the better class order a daily supply of staple groceries: rice, sugar and trijoles, as well as fresh meats and vegetables. Table Manners. At a Mexican table, whether there are guests or not, the hostess is served hrst. She helps herself, and then passes the dish to the guest, or to the nearest guest. She does not wait until the rest are served, but commen ces to eat at once, and is frequently started on another course before the last at the table have been served to the first course. In spite of the five meals a day in which Mexicans may indulge, they are, as a rule, not very hearty eaters, and many of the courses are allowed to pass untouched, wnhout even the itsual sampli -j, fot politeness. Table topics are native, not our °WU' Health, the teeth, likes and dislikes in food are perfectly permis sible. The race is a more personal one than ours; and so personality and the individual feelings and emotions are ever in the limelight. To indicate that one has finished a course, knife and fork are crossed over one another midway the plate. In restaurants one sees a great deal of eating with knives, instead of forks, and elbows on the table are quite as customary. Such instances do not reflect discredit on the race, as they are not national. The low classes do not pretend to eat at tables, and their meal of tor tillas and frijoles is carried about in baskets, washed down with pulque, and eaten wherever the men of the family may be employed that day. Breakfasts. To have the entire family present at either the morning or evening meal would be a queer coincidence in a Mexican home. An American breakfast of breakfast food, eggs, steak, potatoes, bread, coffee and hot cakes with syrup would be an utterly unheard of menu to a Mexican cook, and a Mexican expresses wonder that one could work after a hearty morn ing repast. The Mexican breakfast is a matter of two meals or one, ac cording to individual choice. The earlier one is light, and served in the bedroom or at the dining table, as preferred. This desavuno (early morning breakfast) consists always of a cupful of chocolate, a glass of milk and pan dulce. The second breakfast, almuerzo, when indulged in, and thousands use only the first, is served about eleven. This includes a meat course, with bread and drinks. Nooday Meal. The Mexican dinner (coniida), as served about one, but, because of the numerous courses, it lasts until almost three. Soup, tortillas, with a chile condiment, rite, fish, two or more meat courses, two vegetables, and at least two courses of dessert precede the coffee. Each one of these courses is separate from the other, and re quires a separate knife and fork. Rice follows the soup on a plate to itself, and it would be unheard of to eat this on the same plate with the gravies and meats. When you have finished with the rice, the waiter removes your plate, knife and fork, and either gives you another, or you help your self from a mound of cutlery in the center of the table, if the home is an informal one. A true Mexican deep down in his heart has a contempt for the gringo that uses the same plate, knife and fork for rice, meat and vege tables. Suppers. The evening meal, like breakfast, is either two or one, according to taste. Between five and seven, either at his own home or at the home of a friend, a Mexican takes a cup of chocolate, a glass of milk and pan dulce. About nine those who wish it indulge in a second supper, either the exact coun terpart of the noonday meal, or a simple one consisting of meat, frijoles (beans), tortillas and salsa (condi ment), served in buffet style. Soups. Soups are used with every noonday meal, and as a rule are well flavored. Clear French soups with sguacate (salad fruit) and a drop of lime juice are well liked. Vegetable soup and l.eef soups with vermicelli are popular. Sopa de tortilla, a thick gravv with corn cakes chopped small, makes a pleasing native soup thai is entirely unlike any of our country. Beverages. An indispensable necessity in a Mexican pantry is chocolate. Home made chocolate is much more appetis ing than that purchased from stores. Cocoa beans, maracaebo, cinnamon and sugar are the ingredients; these ground fine, mixed thoroughly, and put into small moulds. When hard, the chocolate is cut into small squares for use. To prepare this chocolate appetiz lngly, the Mexican cook boils fresh milk in an earthenware olla. When the milk has boiled, it is skimmed, and a square of chocolate to each cup is dropped into the olla while it is still over the fire. When this has been allowed to dissolve for a few minutes, a wooden beater with corrugated head and loose wooden rings (melin illo) is whirled deftly between the palms. This motion churns the liquid into a foam and more thoroughly dis solves the chocolate. Poured into cup and served very hot, this is the delicious chocolate for which Mexico is famous. Cinnamon is the most ordinary flavoring for chocolate, though vanilla is also widely used. Coffee is served boiled, not dripped Indeed, the boiled coffee is put up in bottles and served by pouring a few teaspoonfuls of the cold liquid into a cupful of steaming milk, and sweet ening or not, according to taste. Milk is either used fresh or scalded (cruda or crucida). In restaurants and private homes a cup of chocolate is always accompanied by a glass of milk. Some prefer the milk after finishing the chocolate, drunk as we would drink a glass of water; others alternate a sip of one with a sip of the other—to be more accurate, a dip of one after a dip of the other, for Mexicans do not drink their chocohte. Their phrase is tcmar chocolate (take chocolate). It is their custom to break off a pic:-; of pan dulce rud dip it into the chocolate or milk. To con vey this dripping morsel to the lips without spilli'iç a drop beet mes a pi ut of liness-' in table etiquette. The hulls of the cocoa bean, left over from the preparation, of chocolate squares, when boiled in water and sweetened make a beverage called champurado. This is rather thick, but palatable. Peons who can not afford chocolate make a kind of drink from boiled grains of corn and water. Tak en off the first after hours of boiling, and sweetened with sugar, this atole is fairly pleasant as a drink. Grains of blue corn make a deep blue atole; white kernels, a kind that is much like thickened milk. Pulque, the national intoxicant.^ is made from a fermenting of agua miel, as the juice of the maguey plant is called. This is imbibed at all hours and is a frequent adjunct to wines at the noonday repast. Wines are cheap and, therefore, much used at less pre tentious homes. Rice. Rice is seldom cooked soft enough, perhaps because the Mexicans do not use double vessels. The grains are softened over an open charcoal fire in an earthenware dish; either colored red with tomato juice, or left white and served with a sprinkling of peas or carrots. Sliced bananas_ over rice is a frequent adjunct in serving. Meats. Meats are the chief part of the noonday meal. Fish is baked and served with tomato gravy more often than fried. Oyster patttes are popu lar. Baked duck without stuffing, with a lettuce salad, is a national dish. Venison can be procured in city mar kets. Beefsteak, as we think of a juicy tenedcrloin or porterhouse an inch or two in thickness, is unknown Bifstek with the Mexicans is a very thin wafer of meat broiled. Roast beef is well prepared. Chickens and turkeys arc scrawny, perhaps bccause of the game-cock strain that predominates. They are usually boiled to tastelessness. seldom fried. Molle, the national method of preparing these fowls, is boiled tur key or chicken, served in a great dish of gravy, made red with tomato, and flavored with onion, native seed and chocolate. Vegetables. Mexican cooks as a rule do not season vegetables well, nor cook them enough. The market in the city, par ticularly, has a variety of fresh vege tables every month in the year, and these are usually cheap. English peas, string beans, June corn, cauli flower, tomatoes, and celery are pre pared as in American homes. Caraba nthus (a firm yellow pea) and calaba za (a pumpkin-like squash) are popu lar native vegetables. A combination of peas, cabbage, carabanthus, carrots and soup meat, boiled in one vessel and served all on one dish is very common. Needless to add, all these taste exactly alike after such treat ment. x Tomatoes arc of two varieties, the red ones we know, and a hard-shelled green kind used in making gravies and condiments. White potatoes are mashed and creamed, but most often boiled. Frijoles (beans) are the main diet of the peons, and last course before dessert in an average home. These beans come in black, red and white varieties, though the red is most used. No nation can serve the bean so ap pctizingly as the Mexican. The se cret lies in the day-before-boiling that they are subjected to, as well as the seasoning. A Mexican kitchen always has a dish of beans simmering over a slow fire. After two days of this, the beans are ready to be put into a flat dish and thickened by cooking down with lard. Frijoles with salsa and tor tillas is always the last dish before dessert. Salads of lettuce, tomatoes and aguacate are in daily use. Guacainole combination of aguacate (salad fruit) with tomates and chiles is the special salad reserved for feast days. Breads. The average Mexican housekeeper has no bread in her bill of fare that corresponds to the homemade bread or loaf bread of the United States' homes. Nor does she understand what a layer cake means to us, and pie, doughnuts, and shortcake are strange dishes to her. Hot bread as we know it in biscuits, hot rolls, waffles, pan cakes and muffins is entirely unknown in a Mexican family. In fact, the term pan caliente (hot bread) Mexico signifies any bakery bread baked within the last twenty-four hours. The only bread used hot Is the steaming tortilla, the flat corn cake that is the only bread of the peon class. Indeed, except for tortillas the Mex ican cook nijver prepares any bread ai home. The explanation of this probably lies in the fact that Mexican kitchens are supplied only with char coal fires (braseros) without any form or oven attached. This fact drives the average city COMING At The BUNGALOW ! TUESDAY, OCX. 19 Wm. Farnum IN The Plunderer In a Picturization Supreme of ROY NORTON'S Vivid and Romantic Novel— ONE NIGHT ONLY CHILDREN iOc ADULTS : 20c family to depend on the public baU cry shops. The bread supplied by these pan derias is of two great class es, sweetened and unsweetened. Pan de agua (unshortened bread) is sel dom sweet, but pan de manteca (bread made up with lard) is usually sweet ened. In the largest cities of the Republic, Americans find that the best equipped bakeries are now mak ing a wheat bred in loaf form to sup ply foreign trade. Mexicans buying unsweetened bread prefer the all round-crust rol>, the Vienna roll. The average hotels and restaurants serve these exclusively. Pan dulce, tVie sweet bread, is the most popular of all breads with Mexi cans, excepting the tortilla. This is the bread most universally baked in cooky shape. There are dozens of varieties of this, varying in name according to shape, and to whether the sweetening is on the outside in crystallized lumps, in the dought it self, or used as a fruit marmalade be (the jockey tips THE «OOP oum/) SAY JUMIIIPOKWl HOMt TO PAY Ml) UK* THE REM. TOBACCO CHEW— (SETS AWAY . QUICHE*. L*STS LONGE*. AND «OES FURTHER! THAN TH E ORDINARY KINO f ' THEN HE'S AI SURE WINNER) JTjT r A SK your dealer for W-B Cut Chewing Tobacco. It is the new "Real Tobacco Chew"— cut long shred—or send 10c in stamps to us. WEYMAN-BRUTON COMPANY, SO Union Sqnre, New York City • WARNING ! Are you always trying to see through a blurring niistî If you are take warning—you need good glasses. We correctly fit glasses for all errors of refraction. We make a specialty of Health Ray and Radex lenses. STANDARD OPTICAL CO. 1007 Main St., Boise. DR. It. E. TOWLE. tween crusts. A Mexican bakery is an unsanitary place in the eyes of an American. The Vienna rolls and fancy shaped pan dulces arc the onlv bread the average panderia sells. These are displayed on open counters, where each pur chaser fingers the entire lot in making a selection. It is a common sight to see Vienna rolls piled up six feet high against the grimy walls of the store, almost black with a covering of flies. Besides being thus exposed in the baker shops, the bread in delivery is carried around in open baskets on the heads of peons, and a door to door selection is made. This allows ano ther fingering of the entire basket. It is a daily sight to see nets filled with Vienna rolls being carried around on a woman's head, as the delivery is made from a large bakery to a small bread shoo. These nets are large enough to almost hide the man under neath, and. as he jogs along the prin cipal streets, the rolls get full of dust and germs.