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BOTH LOOPS AND
SASHES IN VOGUE French Dressmakers Give Nov the figure a somewhat vuseilke pro French Dressmakers Give Nov elty and Cachet to Their Mod els for Milady's Wear. WEIRD AND FANTASTIC LOOK 8 ome Dresse« Display Marked Eccen tricity; Knife and Accordion-Plait ed Flounced Skirts Have Gained Approval. Although styles nt Hie present time are of such extremely diverse types, observes a leading fashion writer, sev eral of the French dressmakers have attracted attention through definite novelty and notes which give both cachet to their models. Cberult with her loops has scored a success ; Made leine et Madeleine with their sashes and bloused bodices and Jenny with her plaits. At first It was Impossible to to what extent the loop draperies would be accepted. Owing to their some what fanciful character and the as sembling of two and three colors In one dress, they were inappropriate for street wear. They have, however, been adopted for Indoor clothes, and In these they have proved more successful than was expected. While giving a round silhouette to the skirt, these draperies do not take away the slenderness of line. They are In no wise related to the hip tended skirts, blit nt the same time they nre bouffant, light and airy look ing. suy i and evening ex Weird and Fantastic Dresses. Cherult launched the cojored chif fon panel or loop drapery In alternat ing shndes of green and blue draped on a foundation of black taffeta. Some of these dresses have a weird and fan tastic look, as Is attested by one hav ing the short foundation skirt cut In deep points and bordered with silver braid. Over this fall the loops and ppnels of chiffon in green and blue, al ternating to cover the full width of the skirt. At the hack are two trail ing panels of chiffon, one of green and one of blue. The sleeves are made In the same eccentric fashion. This dress seems quite fantastic for general wear. Cherult calls It robe de diner, très habille. It remains to be seen If the average woman will consider herself well dressed In such a gown. The some designer makes other loop dresses that are wearable and charm ing. In these, too, the novel feature Is the combination of blue nnd credit the A Is It brown of cate nlng green chiffon over a black taffeta founda tion so that the shadow of a slim sil houette Is retained, despite the multi tudinous loops of billowy blue and green. the charming semi-fitted, uncorseted bodice so characteristic of Cherult's style. A dress of this type has ulso Dark Blue Taffeta, Green Cascades. In direct contrast to the looped dresses are draped polonaise or seml fltted princess gowns with cascading draperies or lovely sashlike Jabots of lace or net flowing from one side. One of the most pronounced novel ties In these Is a dark blue taffeta with the flowing cascades of a bril liant green. The entire surface of the been When proval. very dous houses. nnd have Iinve flounces to I Is plaited, very chief most thing ingly j we , we I enough i eral | pense I ingly I In ! ness j the [ Joy ed I I. j [i P 4. j able slightly belt . It has nnd ; The j n l h In nnd wool Inr, tiling. duced cotton any Frock, Em- hnve broidered in Brown and Sashed With : wool times dress Is appliqued with big bunches of I down rn,It formed of highly colored kld .ml- ! latlng rosy cheeked apples, fat pears, I charming ehernes, plums nnd grapes. There Is ! cent), surely color enough In this dress to j with Th s 7n fU, "'; iS,,C taSle - «omis 1 his dress follows the lines noted In j were some of the early models which showed : should« * slight change from the Io the slanting lines. Cafe au Lait Chiffon ■ Gold and Brown Ribbon. vertical were thus giving 1 broidery the figure portion. a somewhat vuseilke pro It is most Interesting to ob serve di», prominent manner In which this type stands out beside the short halloonlike skirts that have the I ti the host dressmakers dorsetnent of and the equally short, that do not bnk authorltatlveness. Dresses With Ribbon Sashes. This season has brought forth noth ing more wltli hi g I scanty OlieS charming than the dresses ribbon sashes, the how of which stands out in bouffant effect al most like a pannier drapery. To Made leine et Madeleine must be given the i i f: 1 wt I r o] \ on Draped Princess Dress of Navy Blue Taffeta Appliqued With Bunches of Fruit Made of Bright Colored Kid. credit of Introducing the sash and the low hip girdle as a definite nnd positive note throughout their entire collection of clothes. A delightful dress from this house Is developed In cafe au lait chiffon. It Is girdled with a ribbon In gold and brown lame; the ribbon, stiff nnd stately, contrasting with the softness of the chiffon, which falls In graceful rasendes at the left side of the skirt. Scattered over the sleeves and rounding the collarless neck is a deli cate embroidery of gold threads. The most elaborate and notable nlng dresses nre In Egyptian style with marvelous embroideries. get It." to the say I my l.v. sur eve Much has been written of the Egyptian fashions. When they were Introduced everybody wondered whether they would meet np Most people thought them Only a few had the proval. very extreme, foresight to recognize their tremen dous possibilities, but they hnd the barking of a number of Important houses. all you er you feet and why Simplicity Wins Signal Victory. Jenny's simple models, with knife nnd accordion plaited flounced skirts, have gained much approval. Iinve caught the fancy of both the Parisienne nnd the American. There Indication thnt plaited flounces will be worn for some time to come. These Is every Flounces, especially when plaited, make n dress or suit very youthful, chief reason why they have become al most too popular. But after all, every thing that Is young looking nnd strik ingly becoming Is widely copied. So we may take our choice as to whether we shall wear clothes that arc pretty enough to hnve won perhaps too gen eral favor or be exclusive pense of missing much that Is appeal ingly pretty and feminine In dress. In comparison with the sumptuous ness that has prevailed In dress since the war ended, Joy the little tailored suits with plait ed flounces. the ter «wer able appear This Is no doubt the skin ing son, toned at the ex one views with heel. Jenny makes an ndor able one with a box Jncket held In slightly at the waistline by belt ending In an Egyptian ornament. It has a plnln coat collar nnd nnd a simple, full length coat sleeve. The skirt has a shallow yoke and two sldoplnlted flounces. your a narrow "I stand to shoes foot revers Wool Embroidery. In spite of the presence of spring nnd the coining of summer, one sees wool used In some of the new trlm Wool embroidery Is still Inr, nnd often an effect me up tiling. popu enn be pro duced by using wool embroidery cotton that cannot bo produced any other way. np said on to I ter. With derful, for in Besides, the colors hnve n different quality when used In wool than in cotton or silk. times appliqued figures down with 'coarse stitches : contrasting ££ charming little slip-on blouse cent), nt Atlantic City , with ..quod figures'of «omis stitched down wH„ red were used on the peplum and' should« Some are used to They are stitched a strange enough knew remorse hnd gave worn re ivns of while gray woolen They on the nml the neck and sleeves finished with *rs were broidery a little red eui LAURA'S HEEL pro ob which short By JANIE OSBORN I ti (<£>. 1 * 20 . by McCIi Newspaper Syndicate ) noth If you had happened to he buying shoes on a certain May morning In Dawson's smart shoe shop you might have seen u prepossessing young shoe salesman with his footstool drawn close to a bewitching young customer, and you would have thought their con versation was more heated and more Intimate than the purchase of a pair of shoes or so would usually warrant. If you had overheard you would have got this: "But I think it was extremely un derhanded of you," from the girl. "You told me you were learning your father's business In every detail and I knew he was In tlie shoe business but I never dreamed that you were actually walling on people, selling women's shoes. "1 shouldn't think you'd want to. And you didn't want me to know, I am sure, or you would have told me so right out. If I Just hadn't hap pened to walk right up to you before I even recognized you I never would have found It out. Of course, I didn't know thnf your father was really at the head of Dawson's." OlieS of al the ed "I had nothing to he ashamed of," said young Dawson, with considerable asperity—asperity that set very well on his well-molded, forceful features. "In my letters I did not go Into de tails because I didn't know you would he Interested. I told you what I thought would he of most Interest to you. I told you that I would soon he promoted to the post of vice presi dent of the concern with a quarter In terest In the business. I told you what my Income would be within a few months. I told you because I thought It only fair for you to know these things In considering my pro posal." Then followed an awkward panse. Poor little Doris seemed to he blush ing with Intense embarrassment and there wns nothing for her round blue eyes to do hut to glance down at the white buckskin pumps that young Dawson had showed her before she realized that he was young Dawson at For Doris, In fact, had been too preoccupied thinking of the letter of proposal that had come that very morning from young Dawson to notice the young shoe salesman who waited on her, even though he was as ob viously good to look Dawson. nil. of upon as was "Well, I suppose I might as wéll get the shoes anyway," she said Inme Yes. I think that those will do." "Not If I have anything to say about It." came from Dawson, and he was surprised at his own temerity, haps he had a sort of caveman desire to subject the little blue-eyed girl to even more embarrassment than she already felt, to punish her In part for the opinion she had expressed coming his present humble calling. "If I am going to have anything to say about what you dQ and don't do, I am never going to let shoes like that—I guess I know from my experience here Deels like that Just ruin the shape of women's feet. any a to was out heel he He dled the of l.v. Per con you wea r as salesman. Oh, perhaps they are all right for dances and parties, but you want these shoes to walk In. wouldn't talk to any ordinary custom er that way. hut I've got to talk to you straight from the shoulder, never Imnglned women tortured their feet the way they do. and It's some thing that every shoe manufacturer and retailer ought to know, why I'm glad I am spending these weeks selling shoes." I try rest will ! That's was a "But I think I have n right to buy the sort of shoes I wish. Besides yoii don't know how I am answering your letter." As a matter of fact the let ter was on Its way containing «wer unequlvocably In the affirmative. Doris hnd planned to get these delect able shoes for a spring house party which they were both Invited the next week-end. so with In an nn to High-heeled white buck skin pumps were essential to produc ing the picture thnt she contemplated. "Look nt the shoes you've got on now," ruthlessly went on young Daw son, holding up a dainty high-but toned boot with exaggeratedly long pointed vamp nnd the extreme of high heel. "That's ridiculous. It'll ruin It your health nnd I'll bet It's fiendishly uncomfortable." Doris did not relish this frankness. "I think I've stood all I stand from you," she said, taking n very unfair advantage of to get down and say things nbout shoes and my feet." She was trying desperately to tuck a little «Ilk-covered foot am going to "You nre me my I me skirt, on and let en t fore two If ns My under an abbreviated "Please put my shoe back me go." The shoe wns up nnd Doris rose. eventually buttoned "Forgive me." Whispered the shoe salesman looking np pleadingly from his stool, said It for your own good. "I only I wanted to show you some of the sort of shoos I think a girl like yon would like hot ter. They're lots niftier thnn With your little foot they'd look derful, nnd they'd be so much better for yon." But Doris was obdurate, miserable hut she my those. won She was was tnkfng strange youthful feminine delight In torturing the man she kne enough she loved to distinction, knew she would he filled with tearful remorse ns soon ns she was home nnd hnd time to think of It, hut gave lier a strange sort of pleasure "I body und Inr I'll well She •v now it to She minced her way on torture him. her high heels out of the shop without even turning to hid him good-by and Dawson was left to gather together the array of high heeled white buck skin pumps he had got out for her In spection. About a half hour later young Daw aon was hurrying along the avenue, bent on getting to his rooms to see whether a letter had yet arrived from Doris and hack again within the hour allowed salesmen at Dawson's for lunch. Hi$ Interview with Doris her aelf had left him without the slightest appetite for that repast. If she had actually written a letter of acceptance then this little difference might be made up. He could hold her to her de cision. send her five or six, ten dozen If necessary, American beauties, ten pounds of the best candy and perhaps she might still he his. Because of his haste he was espe cially annoyed midway of a busy block. A crowd had gathered that stretched to the curb. Abstracted os he was his ears were not deaf to comments he heard. ) In shoe con pair un girl. your and to. I me hap at "'Smaller? Somebody hurt?" asked one of the crowd trying to push his way through for a better view. "Nnw," came the rejoinder from some one In a more advantageous place. "I.ndy stuck." "What you mean, stuck?" came from the first. "High heel In a Iron grating." was the reply. " 'Swonder more don't get caught that way." Then came a suppressed chuckle from the crowd. But young Dawson had heard enough. Eager as he was to get to his rooms, he took time to push up to the crowd and, being of more than average height, he did not have to push very for before he saw the center of that good-natured gath ering of lunch hour pedestrians. It was Doris, the dainty blue-eyed girl of his dreams and stuck she was with one high buttoned boot within the bars of a basement grating. A fat but obliging man was down on hands and knees trying to pry the shoe loose with a flat key. gestlng that they had better let him cut the heel off with his pocket knife and others were suggesting that the lady unbutton her shoe and walk out of It when It could be twisted about and loosened from the grating, but as the lady had no button hook that sug gestion did not meet the favor of the crowd. "I have a button hook," Interrupt ed Dawson's clear voice as he pushed his way boldly Into the crowd. "Salesman from a snickered an observer. "They always carry button hooks In their pockets." By this time Dawson's muscular arms side to side with a definite aim to dis perse the crowd. And the loiterers knew from the expression on his face that he meant business. of," de I to In you a I As Let As That Some one was sug at of Show That Let* That True To Show That Let rhat rhat You'll shoe store," were moving definitely from Show Men May May "Stand back," he commanded, "the lady will faint tf yon don't give her any air. Haven't you men anything better to do thnn to stand laughing at a lady In a predicament like this?" "Serves her right for wearing those high heels," threw back one of the last to leave Doris nnd young Dawson. It was a simple matter unbuttoning the high shoe, and once Doris had stepped out of It Dawson easily worked the heel loose from the Iron grating. But he did not wait to button It back He hailed a passing taxi cab and bun dled the poor, speechless Doris therein, and, stepping In beside her, ordered the taxi cab to go to the uptown home of his married sister. "I can't take you to my own pince, obviously, and Just as obviously Show When Now Show on yon can't go all the way out to your coun try pince. And I know you'll want to rest up a bit after that ordeal, will at least be perfectly proper take you to my sister's and we can do your shoe up there. "But I don't like to take T io i FIRST liost Second It to your time," came weakly from Doris, who was making a very plucky effort to fight off the fnlntness that she felt a result of her pivotal position In the street crowd. ns fou )nd :arry o lends Second irise in mce lot nan mpulse 'ears »ober vortli Second "You oughtn't to take so much time for me. Weren't you going somewhere Important?" "Yes. I was," said Dawson, going home to see If you had answer to the letter I sent you, but maybe you will tell me If you had written one and what the letter said." "I said yes. of course," said Doris with a little perplexed smile ns she looked up at young Dawson beside her In the taxi. "1 was sent an And, honestly. I'm never going to wear those silly heels In the street again. I knew I wasn't going to anyway, after what you said." But Dawson wasn't thinking about heels at that memorable moment when It was revealed to him that this most charming of girls In tho world had actually accepted his heart and hand. Museum But He Won. I nm engaged In a work which gives me great pleasure, and (he tracing of language through more th in 20 dlffer en t dialects hns opened a new nnd he fore unexplored field. I have within two years past mmle discoveries which If ever published, must Interest the Iterntt of nil Europe, and render It necessary to revise nil tho lexicon* Hebrew. Greek nnd Lntln-now used ns classical hooks. But what cnn I do? My own vntch," ire he lino 3 <'rslnn nid Inys, 'linages libers 'ill Igloiis loins ivldeh resources are almost ex hausted. nnd In n few days I shall sell my house to go,t brand for my children. —Noah Webster. Insuring a Welcome. "Are you going to deliver campnlgn addresses?" "I dunno." replied Senator Sorghum. "Maybe I'll try n new plan. Every body Is making speeches out my way und I might make myself more popu Inr by sending word on ahead thnt I'll he (he audience." irs. many When mil ill 'liter , b'cp '•lient SCHOOL DAYS titf *1* tUy' TlA r« J«« d 1 ——" II sULrJci cwjkt • ion 1 * *y* *"' K " 7 ftk tu« »*%wy w"» y* / SrV. 3) W J J VI Yi a TV % fV' The Ironic ?<uci C> CopyW of not saw gath It girl with the fat hands loose him knife the out about as sug the dis face Ju^t Folks i By EDGAR A. GUEST SHOW THE FLAG. Show the flag nnd let It wave As a symbol of-the brave; Let it float upon the breeze As a sign for each who secs That beneath It, where It rides, Loyalty today abides. left role cess the B sug Show the flag and signify That It wasn't born to die; Let* Its colors speak for you That you still are standing true. True In sight of God and man To the work that flag began. are side Show the flog that all may That you serve humanity. Let It whisper to the breeze rhat comes singing through the trees out rhat whatever storms descend You'll be faithful to the end Some fully by Show the flag and let It fly, Cheering every passerby. Men that may have stepped aside, May have lost their old-time pride. May behold It there and then Consecrate themselves again. "the her at last It the the But bun Show the flag ! the day Is gone. When men blindly hurry on Serving only gods of gold, Now the spirit that was cold Warms ngain to courage fine. Show the flag and fall in line! (Copyright by Edgar A. Guest.) -o on SoberSecondThoughr By GEORGE MATTHEW ADAMS He yon to do T HE Impulses of our Nature do not Lead us, they Arouse us. And io man Is fit to contend gloriously for i Fact or for a Cause until lie Is horoughly Aroused. But to act upon FIRST Impulses is an unwise and liost disastrous policy. Halter your Impulses with Sober Second Thought. You will floral and ern talent orlzes meals which club It to who to the ns never lose anything by tnrefully Thinking things over before fou act. In fact, it is mir Sober Sec )nd Thoughts that give us courage to :arry through successfully what comes o us as necessary to he done, lends are always wiser thnn hot heads. Halter your Impulses with Sober Second Thought. Most of the regrets of the world irise from Important things done in pulse, which if hut Introduced nt mce to Sober Second Thought, would lot hnve been done at all. Many nan hns resigned a good position mpulse only to be left for months nnd 'ears working up to where lie left off. »ober Second Thought Is a companion vortli cultivating. Halter your Impulses Second Thought. In a when over ration he the takes pretty he hack tends goes quality coin. an Cool on a to on with Sober O "Eh Famous Timepieces. There Is one timepiece In an eastern Museum known as "A "A nnl. he "resurrection vntch," because It has a standing fig ire whose outstretched arms designate he hours nnd minutes. Another hns lino dials, two of which show the 3 <'rslnn calendar of twenlv-nlne tin,vs nid the Arabic calendar of thirty Inys, beside others Indicating 'linages of the moon nnd as yheugmenn. Hie t'nnomlea' Watches that strike (lit with raised ligures, lend In the dark, and libers shaped after the form of mush 'ill Instruments, skulls and hooks hear estlinony of the Ingenuity, taste, re Igloiis and artistic feeling of the mnk loins and those ivldeh can he irs. -O To Induce Sleep. j overtired When one is or worried mil cannot si,.,.,,, being gently rubbed ill over with n towel 'liter generally has the "•rung out of „nit , . desired effect b'cp broulhlng In riosh air Is also '•lient ox i R ann -d° n » Reell By HOWARD L. RANN rmmmm BARNSTORMING j ARNSTORM1NG Is a pastil«, the crude and unterrlflcd amste Hctor who drnws whatever salary left after pac ing cur fare io the ne town and who welcomes any kind applause, from fresh eggs to vegetables. Most of our barnstormers leap totJ role In "St. Elmo" with so much ml cess that they are often confused (*| the real article. B est They have a very complex and exhausting life, as they are obliged to get up nt noon, tira carefully for the parade, learn whW side of the singe to come In on, sit strangle the English language througk out the evening performance, There Is quite a little acting c» cealed on the barnstorming circuit Some of It Is concealed so fully that the audiences rennmniitt by decorating the drop curtain with sue«» fee Htst.MR. rLAfooqw COMS AOtOtJ 'AIMS THAT 7 UnT money o* OUT»* Go and I'll SAve XVI 10 , OH It- Too .JC—— « ft—rjTT II £3 7^f He memorizes Marc Antony's oratio» and cultivates a stage stride. floral tributes in the form of cabhas» j and pink carrots. Every barnstormer expects some day to make K. H. Soth- j ern look like the end man in « lion» j talent minstrel. To that end, he mem- j orlzes Mare Antony's oration between j meals and cultivates a stage stride j which is a cross between the «tilt- j walking crane and a cripple with a I club foot. j In some localities which never haw I a chance to see the drama except I when somebody In a touring car roui 1 over a sotting hen, the barnstormer I* j welcomed as a refreshing change from 1 pitching quoits and betting on the du ration of the Mexican war. It muât j he admitted, however, thnf noi nil of ' the barnstorming now In progre* takes place In the rural precincts. * pretty fair Imitation can ocenslonnllf he found In theaters which set n man hack $4 for the family circle. Thla tends to prove that true merit oftea goes unrecognized, while n superior quality of nonchalant nerve gets ih* coin. (Copyright) <) Bound to Como. "Something new." "Eh ?" "A musical novelty." "What Is It?" "A Jazz opera written cull rely t«t saxophones."—Louisville Courier- Jouf" nnl. O MILITANT* MARY The sunshine bos added-warmth tbe-treeaanetipp« witb'OREEN** Alas • for jne/ Hs- springtime ANDTHAVE NO* HOUSE'"TO CLEAN * CM OB' v •■•FltzHve»!