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I Fi\fe FJundred Ball Dresses Being Shipped From Paris to London for the Festivities. GAUZE AND SUN PLAITINGS ARE THE VOGUE. William Waldorf Astor’s Ball Will Be Resplendent in Amber Transparencies. MRS. “JACK” GARDNER'S CERISE JUBILEE GOWN. . ,. - 1'*7, by Rym ar. lntcndew Syndicate.) Taik. May 13.—TL / are making the most woederful gowns fur the Queea s June celebration in London. ! htse are not necessarily for court functions, for the Queen will do Irk entertaining. 1: is her turn t o be e:. < named and she rightly regards t very large society i action of that week as given in her honor. Ml th* elegant houses are to be thrown open for bails, aud judging by the number of c wm ordered to be suit to this or tL.r hotel the lirst in June there wdl be more new l*all • ■ The gowns arc not court dteases by any means, bat beautifui creations from m w materials made in :Le way rha: is most bec.)Ui Egs to the owners. ! he stiff court dresses are th horror of 'he •? w!to must wear tin ra am ti y a < uis cartied at ti; * m ,• jib!: imme n . FOR Ti. K JUBILEE. These cresses, .is h-d ao ti. y are made, are exhi. ’ i n the slrip.- at pri vate "views.” The owners cum* and try the m on; . nd th t utouner* n. aes little unimportant <• •r-ges ia tu : . as suggested. The mo tlons take place daily 'when these dresses are put on. . nd she is fortunate who tan view them. SUMMER B \L . GOWN?. The * harming simplicity 01 this sum mWs ball gown inns nor suggo ia expensiveness. They are made of g ~uze. net. mous: Hue d s.)ie. chiffon and a.l the gauzy mat or .ti.- that call for edk or A great deal >t s m plaiting i- con spicuous ct» moat of them, and very oi iti -he who!** .vii. skir., tuuicc atul i>. e• • s are -ua pi:*. t» • .... lsi: way in trimming these gowns, to with frills u. d ruches of late and gamy materials. Yet the design of the gowns is ex ceedingly simple. \v..c-t. ndii ^ the ribbon bracts and baitaud tne num erous frills tiiain: nr the s-kir s. With a number of these d* late gowns come guimpes of the same sheer muter.al as the gowns that are .ticked and i uffed and made more cl..: orate with lace inserti *n and ribbon, so that my ’y has a hgh-ueek lull gown ■wii«:“ pleases her. For high-neck ba is will be quite popular this euierr. " Ooe W tl^« moo*, tast ful of thesi ball $&t * i , covered With wlute* el.iff a. i h* satin skirt wa- made codet aud fitted tk ot .y over the hips. The chiffon skirt jell over the truimpar* ney a hi full a the* front and sin* .', a!’.'1 very full .it the back. Only at the belt was it attached to the satin skirt. Around the bottom it was embroil’.• t d in deep cream silk and tritnn: d w’th s • ••i ; • u:1.-. SATIN AND CHIFFON. The bodice was of the deep cream satin, covered full with th*- vvi.i * ihtf fun. It opened at the* left under the arm seam, and the chiffon was draped from under arm seam to u er arm sum. The chiffon at the front of the bodice whs caught down with a pearl ornament, Borderir t d'f neck of the gown were tiny frills of chiffon. The braces over the shoulders were formed «if r ral taffeta ribbon. The ribbon was 1- nght over the shoulders, crowed u ,jfr av»dims and tacked to for: rather .. hi 1* g’rdle. Over the arms f !1 three *e' on full frills of th« white chiffon that » &QT\ t‘U hurt vca. S many of the later ball gowns i shown me m the shops with chiiiun or gauze skirts were only attached to the a com mon belt. This makes ' possible for a frugal-minced young woman to use the same sa i. skirt with several oi her i -hi gauzy . ivirts. ii they tun be made 1 on separate bands. .MRS. GARDNER'S GUW N. A stunning bull gewn that had just U en completed for Mrs. Gardner, out of he Raders of society in the American colory htie and a groat leader »n 1» >s . a, wher* .:c lives, was charming in as originality. The skirt was a fail _ de:. The upper part was ct uarrow g-ip. d black and white tain that farmed a round d point at the iron., t he rest of the skirt was of plain white s.(uu, covered with a deep flounce of , m . . i ’'•> suit, i lit ie was ,1 full ruche of mem eliue de sole he. ng ,ht- fl-uirc^aau three ruches tramming it at the bottom. The corsas ’ was a tigiit-fi'.ing, seam less affair, fastening a. the left under arm seam. i. was cut "V neck, i he braces of cerise taffeta ribbon* that came from the girdl, and crossed at the back and front follow eu the edge of the neck to give a fiinsn. i key ended ia a A bow wi.h loops fifteen inchc- long ami eaus just c miihg a trifle below the loops. This kind of bow. which is exceediag y . raceful, l notice on so many of the light summer gowns. i'iie different shades cf heliotrope, rhat are so popula ■ this season, are combined s > offten with deiicate sha< of -j cau<: pink, and more often with delicate blues. One of the prettiest of »bose pale blue g'wns was buiic of blue gauze over blue IUUCU.. | 'I he tafft -a s«eirt war close f.. tag over I the hips and !iarcd a great de;.1. a; the i but am. Owe this the skirt of blue •;ar.z< fell ratio r .-cant a the front and i ^ries. and wry fail a he bs k. It was | trimmed with ft Ye frills of the gauze. , Three af the bottom, which graduated * in breadth as they reached the b.-ck. w re trimmed above with two rows of deep heliotvop veh\ ribbon. Above . tha. was another frill of gauze anu two ! bands tf \> i\et. and the top rod! v as | 1; by a single bund of velvet ri'o 1 boa. GOWN OF GAUZE. The cor--; o . which was#f blue taf » feta, .w as covered with blue gatize. draped from under aim se. ni to under arm scam. It opened a' th ? left side and was finished with a cascade of gauze and loops of the velvet ribbon. The corsage was cut straight across by streps of the heliotrope velvet ribbon, • nc .Rted by butterfiy bows. On the i left arm there was another s:;ap of the velvet tied just below the shoulder. The printed gauzes of this season are exquisitely delicate in color. One of the prettiest ball gowns I saw during my visit to the shops was made of pri.. t d gauze. The ground was pale b!ut- with a d< sign of thistles and leaves i in their natural colors. It was ma le with a sun plaited skirt ovi r a blue taffet transparency. It was trimmed with eight bands of lace inser tion. SUN PLAITING. j The bodice was of nine taffeta, tight Suing with the 6un-plaited gauze put on in the form of a blouse. It was cut square necked with a berthe of sun plaited pale heliotrope gauze around the neck and braces of heliotrope taf feta ribbon. There was a broad sash made of sun plaited heliotrope gauze that was tied loosely around the waist and knotted at the back with ends reaching nearly to the bottom of the gown. Another gown made after this model was of pale silvery green chiffon with a large plaid in pale pink and ciel blue. It was made over a transparency of pink taffeta. The sash and berthe were of blue sun-plaited chiffon and the braces were of pink and blue ribbons. It is estimated that the Paris colony will be increased by several hundred ju-. after the London jubilee is over, and it is also estimated that upward if five hundred ball gowns will leave 1'iris for London within the next three weeks. NINA GOODWIN. -o-, SHE READ IT IN HIS HAND. But Fate Was Kinder to Him Than to the Fair Palmist. “So the bazaar ts over at last,” sard the girl in the grt-en and blue gown, •‘and hadn't we i good time, too?” “Indeed, we had,” said the gir! in the empire jacket; “by the way, it was for the poor, wasn’t it?” AI—yes, yes, of course it was. I wish I had thought to ask how ’ntt^h money we made. People keep teasing me to know.” “I made over $100 in the palmistry tern." said the girl in the empire jacket. “Did you. really? How nice. And d > tell me. how did your plan with re gard • ' tana cut?" • Eh. plan? What plan? I don't re »n mber auj. . , ■ Y u were going to tell liis fortune, you krow." hinted the girl in the blue and green gown, and I do so want to know the result.” Oh do you?" said the girl in_ the empire jacket; well, he gave me $;> for i;. Weren’t people generous? Lots cr .. i . • Yes. dear, ! know: hut said that you were sure you could give Robert a h< might speak. You said tha; he had seemed sort of discouraged of iat< .and 1 a almost avoided you. You seem'd to think that Alberta hud be elli g him hings about you.-” “Did I? ! had qt it< forgotten. By M was quite nice ' to you during the bazaar." •;Yt - I wants to get something out . f pa;.::. I believe. But you told Rob , V fortune. 1 know; did you tell him. a. you intended, that he wished to ask uiri same question, but hesitated lest th answer might be no?" "Ye-cs.” ad mi’ted the girl in the em pi:r jack. “but I don t believe that was Mr. Upperton’s reason for -’’ -I kirwn it. dear. Then. I suppose vou told him that he need not fear the answer, and that he was to be married before he was twenty-six? ■ Y.-e-" said the girl in the empire jacket, "of course. I was only joking wi'C'.' I told you all that. -Of course.” said the girl in the blue and gi e gown, "and I will never tell a s ll how it came about. I suppose th; t ho proposed at once, eh?” “1 believe be did, but-’ -1)0 tell me just how he did. there’s a dear girl; I-” [ r< ally dpn’t know. 1 “Too nervous1. Of course—I might that By the way. how , i happen tha he took Alberta home that evening?" “It was perfectly natural, I am sure, when he-" „ T -Was jus- engaged to you. wen, i suppose l behind the times, but I should not like the man who was en gaged to mo-" -j never said be was engaged^ to me. I only told his fortune, and— -\fv goodness, gracious! "\ou don t mean to say that he took courage to ask Alberta to marry him. when ’ •Of course I do." snapped the girl in the empire acker, "how many times ■ i ;ust 1 tell you a thifig before you un . rstand it?”—Chicago Times-Herald. A L1TTLK CJII^r. yet ly graduated physician to another. ‘••I haven't worked much regular prac tice," was the latter'* reply, "but 1 have be. appointed physician and surgeon to a big department store for the Christmas StiUsOU.' — JUC»£C. ^ _ FELIX, OF PARIS, __ On Physical Culture and Underwear. Abundant Trimmings on Rich Toil ettes—Pongee a Suitable and Inexpensive Fabric for Summer Wear. The Parisienne rarely confines herself to the strictly tailor-made costume; it does not suit her petite figure, which requires some trimming something more to set off her individuality than the severe lines cf the English tailor made toilette. It is to he made of sil ver grey cachemere. The skirt shows a new departure in the shape of a slightly draped front gore—cachemere lending itself admirably to draperies— while the sides fit closely and the back is gathered in deep folds. The cache mere, of course, is cut as a drop skirt over a foundation skirt of silver grey taffeta. The loose blouse bodice is gathered in at the waist by a novel pointed girdle of darker grey silk, dosing at one side, and opens in front over a very narrow white silk vest, draped by a fall of real lace which is sues from a large white silk ribbon bow at the throat. The tight sleeve is sur mounted by a full shoulder pun ana has a flounce of lace at the waist. A graceful trimming consists of rows of narrow rod. gold, silver and green braid edging the skirt and sleeves and form ing a clover-leaf pattern on the Zouave jacket and liig flaring collar. The return of the tailor-made suit and the rage for the bicycle has ignited new ambitions in the hearts cf female fashionables throughout the continent. Delighted with the freedom and the invigorating exercise which the wheel has given hc-r, she aims at further de velopment through studying physical culture mad<; popular by “Delsarte as the aesthetic division of complete edu cational gymnastics comprised in the Swedish system. Francois Delsarte ! created his famous philosophy of ex ' pression through the instrument of the human body, while Peter Lingg aimed to benefit and develop not merely the ; muscles, but even the vital organs through his system of scientific kin I esiologv. ! We note with pleasure the changes ! brought about by such exercises; they j expand the chest, and diminish the ; waist and give a graceful and erect car riage to the body. We costumers are often accused of distorting the female figure. In our ! defense be it said that we enjoy noth ’ ing better than to fit our creations over , a figure which has attained such nat ! ural perfections, and we consider that ! our gowns are never displayed to bet ter advantage than on a woman who takes sufficient interest in a graceful poise and artistic motions to overcome } inherent indolence and put vivacity and life into her poses. Madame Bern hardt is the greatest living demonstra tor of these principles of aesthetic ex i pression through a perfectly trained lid without some artistic reason. Few women can dispense with cor sets. for with a close-fitting bodice, a corset is a necessity, but it should he made to fit the body and should be of firm yet pliable materials. The time is fortunately over when the body of j the elegante was pressed into iron vises, as she stood with arms uplifted i high above her head, to narrow the | muscles, while she was laced up by her u»MB OF THE GOWNS L' 11 AT ARE H) BE WORN TO i :E JLT.ILE. A i»Ll)K WiLLIAM \VAIJ)ORF ASTOU WERE TRIED* ON AT A DRESS ' REHEARSAL Costumor to Duchesses d’Utes and de j.., Princess do Chimay. Duchess do Maill-. Vteomtessc do tire Comtessc de la Ro Duchess do la T rr Madam Sura Rorr.’.^r^ Miss Ada Rchan, Costumer to Her Majesty, the Queen of Italy. Her Majesty, Queen Maria Dona Pia. Her Imperial Highness,Countess d’Ea The Princesses of Bulgaria. Princesses Lobanoff, Radziswill, and Obolinsky, of the Court of Russia TAILOR-MADE TOILETTE. Copyright, IWT.hy Wa DuEoU. 11-ux' I‘- *) maid. Was it astonishing under such circumstances that our great-grandams fainted at the slightest exertion and that following generations have had to suffer in consequence. Put at last the curse has been redeemed and the womau of to-day is healthy and vhole i some and breathes easily in low cor sets, which gives full expanse to the lungs and diaphragm. All underwear is also made with a view to comfort, as well as beauty, ami the dainty lingerie of to-day compares favorably with the heavy clumsy linen garments which were form riy worn. Fine woolens, silks and lace are the materials employed. Many women hesitate to buy or make up silk underclothes, on account of the expense involved, but if one con siders that a good silk or pongee set of underwear will outlast two cotton ones, and besides needs less trimming, and is more easily laundried, it will he found that the difference in cost is but small. Pongee, once so popular for summer gowns, is particular!.' adaptt d to make up cool and pretty summer lingerie, lounging robes and negligee jackets. A model for the last named is , made in Empire style of pongee, very ih„ iy knife pleated and falling 1 ► s< y from the throat to considerably below the waist line. As this does not ncto: sltate a lining, it will be found partic ularly comfortable for warm wear. Five rows of Valenciennes lace edges the jacket and is sewn on to simulate a Zouave jacket. The close-fitting sleeve is encircled by rows of the insertion and has pleated flounce of pongee with lace insertions at the wrist and two large flounces to match at the shoulder. The standing collar decorated with in sertion is added to by a full pongee ruff at the back. The vogue at present u; essentia! tor a great many trimmings and orna ments. Even the trimmings themselves are trimmed. This is a favorite ion at present. For instance, the rib bon of sashes is bordered with a tiny ruffle of mousseline de sole with a very soft and thin silk fringe, or by a small ruching of gauze of the same shade as the ribbon. These trimmed sashes j ftsrm a very pretty accessory to the summer gown of wash fabrics Bias folds and rosettes are revived. A handsome gown of ecru Henrietta cloth has the front of the plain narrow skirt, between the lower edge and the knees, adorned with folds of green vel vet running horizontally and finished at both ends by choux of the same ma terial. The close-fitting bodice of ecru and green changeable taffeta is entire ly covered with handsome ecrue lace of a large coarse pattern and has three rows of bias folds over the bust and chest, each row likewise finished on the left side by pre^n velvet choux. gradu ating in size, the largest almost reach- j lng the shoulder. The high flaring I collar of taffeta covered with lace is filled out by a full plaiting of cream colored mousselice de soie, and the sleeves, which are close-fitting from I wrist to elbow, and qute fu’l over the upper arm. consists of crinkled Scream colored moms:■■ lin*1 <■ &'■!. over ecru taffeta, and arc finished off .it the wrist by a full pleated flounce. The large hat worn with this costume it of brown fancy straw, trimmed with a number of shaded ecrue tips and an aigrette cf curled cream c lor*. I p i adise feathers. Below the brim and resting on the hair is a bunch oi P*-.k roses and foliage. (£. Fllix, Paris.) A BOVS PAKKADISI. M S. Ten tie nt. I wish ! knew of an ever-gr v. . Where the tu nnever sets at all. ■ '.o, But Join In a game of ball. Whi r n< v<r » book i !- l,r \nd never a fihoolmu'am cross: And the sekno-, of Ilf. is but to know A qui-( r curved Pitch from a toss. Where never is heard- “bo wash your face.” Or “straighten your football hair :" Or "look at your ft■ t, or fasten >our tie.” Or "sit like a man in your chair.” And the r.-cipi for drb <1 apple pies Is kept by thi appl* tr..s; And a fellow can eat and eat and eat, With nev.r that hat* ful “please.” Where never a cent would w. have to pay To the peanut man at the gate: And the ch* wing gum drops right from th. ts. In a'most d liclous state. Oh. I would that I knew of an ever-green isle. ' A paradise ju?' for hoys: Where Ilf is or.e beautiful game of hail With a full brass band of nob*?. MEMTATlONfv I stand upon iif • ' ’ And K-'iz>- uj>on tl v W! •-.* first my day | ’i hose happy hour:-’ Sw. t memories !• 1 I -or the sun. the . v : ItH tlendor* fad. in i ■’ The moments pa.-. , a p. ' Si. ais down—and. dm wire. Hi dims my wearied eight. [ dr, a i thf darkn.-sa coming . n. Its dreary loneliness; i Ai d tear Hi* dismal path of glo a No living tuurtf can ilium' Lift's dark, timid w> urines*. | The friends of youth all pm-. 1 a* ' 1!. yond this vile of t«at>; I watch for dawn of brivai -r • • And wonder why I can no’ pia> | A» in tile bygone years. , Tis now I irk. a' you h ! ! 1> there a lift- beyond? | Faith points her silent tin- r I She *t< a I** along with war : And lifts the veil I g.»z A light break- through : . The veil is torn a-und r: I tee m-.r cb ariy than ' '■ My youth r. turns bk. o Majestic thin o’* r fi ll t’ A vision bright J e. With letter** bold. "ii r: i 1 When we have passed ill • In hi-avdi there's r*-; i ——-o Mr. Jacob Esbeuson, w ploy of the Chicago Lur; • Moines. Iowa, says; "I some medicine back the old country, that I sonal use fo be the b* world for rheum.tt! • in my family for called Chamberlain’ for sale by drur ^ RULING PASSION. M!es Plajrwell—Which do yen like t ost. Mr. Fott, the wauz r,r V ■ Mr. Jack Pott'(absent mindcdly) Pok er.