The Celebrated Scotch Dressmakers
Give to the American People
Their Model of a Yacht
EnglUh Stjtfe# tor Sporting Coat u •*»••.
New Dnp»*rtore» in Keti fw iWcy
cle W ear - A -Universal
Glasgow, July 2.-'The time for yacht
ing and yacht racing is at band, and
costumers and forced to rack their
brains for novelties which adhere tc
fashion, and yet bear the time-honored
stamp of sportsmanship. We hope
that the model of our natty yachting
6uit will meet with the approval of the
interested American public.
Heavy white drill and plaid Victoria
tartan (a new heavy colored cotton
stu-i constitutes the costume. Ihe
skirt, close-fitting at the top, and flar
ing at the foot, is of white drill, and is
trimmed at the hem with a banu of
Victoria tartan three inches in width.
The .blouse of white drill shows the
latent loose-fitting model with box
plejU to give extra fullness at both
sldfs of the front and at the center of
thtCback. Large square reveres trim
mJ Wjth a band of the plaid tartan
^fu wide over a vest of white drill,
■^Bbroidertd on the chest with a red
|Hthor. The vtst continues as a yoke
KV'the back, and a large sailor collai,
^Htewise trimmed with a band of the
Kaid material extends deep down the
Rack. A novel arrangement is shown
^ In the sailor cravat of tartan, which
being fastened under the reveres, is
tied In graceful knots over the bust.
: while the ends are tucked into the
plaid belt. The very ample sleeves
have a cuff of plaid tartan and the
Jaunty white drill cap is adorned in
front with a button showing the
yacht's private design.
Cannes, as usual, is the gathering
i place for fashionable yachtsmen and
women and the blue waters of the
Mediterfan'ean are alive with white
Bails and graceful steamers, and gaiety
Is the order of the day; while royalty
hobnobs with the owners of the fleet
est crafts. Our English women are
quite at home on the waters and vie
> with their American sisters in skillful
handling of the rudder. The costumes
v were never so becoming and jaunty as
this season, and bright red has evi
dently taken the place of navey or pale
blue in yachting suits. The skirts are
worn rather shorter than the usual
walking length. A rich costume was
made by us for the young daughter of
an American millionaire, who crosses
the Atlantic yearly on his own beauti
ful steamer, to attend the Cannes
regattas. It consists of red and whit©
cloth. The skirt of red cloth is cut in
one with a long belt or empire bodice
loosing in the back and giving a prin
'downward along the seams. A white
cashmere blouse pouches over the em
pire belt and forms a flat plastron in
front, which is embroidered with the
yacht’s ensign in miniature at the chest,
i3 edged on both sides with a narrow
red silk pleating. The high collar of
white cashmere has a full niching of
red silk. The sleeve is baggy, but not
full, and is finished at the wrist by a
band embroidered with a red anchor.
The dainty zouave jacket to be worn
with this costume is of red cloth like
the skirt, and is cut in sack shape,
reachiug just below the top of the belt;
J it opens in front over the white blouse
and is fastened with white galloons.
T he large white sailor and wide, flar
ing cuffs are heavily braided with red,
and the white cap is encircled with a
gold band interwoven with the yachts
Red does not confine itself to yacht
»irg alone, but serins to be preferred for
all sporting costumes, as it has the
advantage over other colors by its re
sistance to the fading rays of the sr.n,
besides softening the appearance of the
complexion, sunburnt or tanned by out
door exercise. Red blouses with white
polkadots. white linen collar and white
silk cravat are worn on the wheel with
v hit© pique skirts and red or black
high laced boots. The accompanying
small round hat is trimmed with red
ribbon and bows.
uicycie sKins arc worn muon snorter
L In America than in Europe, which we j
^consider a mark of common sense on 1
Hie part of the American. Bloomers j
Hone are ugly and disfiguring, but a j
Short skirt combines elegance with pro
rpriety and comfort, and the woman
who cannot overcome the prudishness
had better not ride the wheel at all.
Heavy linen makes a comfortable and 1
pretty skirt for wheeling. A model j :
which can be easily imitated at small I |
cost is made of linen duck. The di- ' i
vided skirt is wide enough to hide the <
I vision at the back by deep folds, ’
bile the front has an extra gore to
Inneet. the two separate leg coverings t
Id Is fastened on both sides with f
jail white pearl buttons. The short *
uave jacket of linen has a large col- j
;ar and reveres decorated with pearl t
buttons, and open over a tight-fitting a
sleeveless waist of white pique, fas
tening invisibly in the shoulder and
underarm seams. The sleeves are leg
o’-muttons, with white pique cuffs, and *
the pique standing collar is encircled
by a red satin cravat. The white sail- j;
or hat is decorated with red satin rib- S
bon and white quills. k
Bloomers of pongee take the place of h
the underclothing, and if the weather c
ds too warm to wear tan leather boots, o
fcesvy tan silk stcokir-s and well fit
ting low shoos will look well and prove l'\
considerably cooler. Even the eques
Copyright, UP7.by Wm. Duipto> (SIMP30X, Hukter & YOUNG, Glasgow.) .
_____* " ' - |
trienne drops all conventionality dm*
ing the dog days, and appears in i
I1 blouse and straw hat.
•The increased love of sport r/hicl
women are developing has given enter
; prising costumers the idea for a so
! short skirt of the costume can b<
I shortened and adjusted according t<
I the occupation of the wearer, so tha
the woman who plays tennis or gol
is ready to mount her wheel or hei
horse at her pleasure, without changing
The success of this very practical gar
ment depends upon the stability of mind
of the fair sex.
‘ i ?A
IDENTIFICATION BY FINGER
New York Times.
Believers in tii ^er prints as a means of
identification exist elsewhere than in Mark
Twain's play. The Inspector General of
the Bengal police has all the confidence of
“Fudd’nhead Wilson” in the practical val
ue of this system, and In a recent report
he goes so far as to recommend Its adop
tion, not as an adjunct to the anthropo
metric system, but as a substitute for It.
He says that the finger marks are simpler,
cheaper and more effective than measure
ments. which Is certainly saying a good
deal. To take thorn, he explains, needs
no costly and easily deranged instruments;
it can b? taught much more easily; the
"personal equation.” due to want of skill
of negligence on the part of the operator,
is eliminated, and the impressions can be
taken In a quarter of the time required
for making an anthropometric record.
The present method of taking the prints,
differs sorm what frotp that followed by'
the philosopher of Dawson's Landing, and
nil ten fingers, instead qf a thumb, are
placed on record. For the material, a kind
Df printer's irk should he used, the best
Licing one which drvs rather slowly. When
1; has been spread upon a slab, the bulbs
M the four fingers of the subject are laid
jpon it. and then pressed down gently by
:he hand of the operator. The inked fin
ter* arc tn» n placed upon a piece of white
ard. An impression of the thumbs is ch
ained in a like way. and then the wark
' done. ‘ There appear to be,” writes
Francis tl.ilton. in commenting on this rc
)ther than deep scars, and tattoo marks
•omparable In their persistence to these
narkings. whether they »>e on the fingers,
m the paimar surfaces of the hands, or on
he side of the foot." In other parts of the
ody there is no persistence. Thfe features '
.er. 1 he teeth are a van thing quanti
>. while hair has the same bad propensity
*. I changes color, ns do the skin and, to
ome extent, even the iris of the eye. As
o these lints, while growth, of course i
irocluces differences, the pattern itself, j
he shap and arrangement of the ridges 1
nd furrows, change wonderfully little. 1
MONEY IN WATERMELONS.
T different parts of thel
tate indicate that the growers of mel-J
ns are meeting with remarkable goo(W
uccess. In some districts the view
: not up to normal, but taking* i
tate as a whole the production,
trge, ar \ the returns so far **a
ave been very gratifying. k
^ :!1 UliuUittai of the prei
■r correspondent Wt Chaires
leir th ree months work t
op very gratifying He -av
- the latter an experienced waterraeloi
i grower of Georgia, planted thirty acre
in melons, from which they hate a!
ready shipped eight car loads of mel
1 ones, end will yet ship as many more
■ This is merely an experiment, and hav
■ ing proven so satisfactory, no doub
' vfKpraJ .nortidi will rJont malons hon
] melon industry here is the distanei
> from market and the necessary freight
, On one car the rate was §160, yet thi
returns show a net of $80 to shippers
The four cars for which returns are it
hand chow a net of $03 per car. Whei
■ we consider that two cars of the mel
, ons pay all the expenses of making tin
crop, we see a very nice profit to th(
grower for his three months’ work.”—
Jacksonville (Fla.) Citizen.
A fool there was and he made his prayet
(Even as you and I).
To a rag and a bone and a hank of hair
(We called her the woman who did not
But the fool he called her his lady fair
(Even as you and I).
Oh, the years we waste, and the tears we
And the work of our head and hand
Felons to the woman who did not know
I (And now we know that she never could
And did not understand.
I A fool there was and his goods he spent
(Even as you and I),
Honor and faith and a sure intent
(And it wasn't the least what the lady
But a fool might follow his natural bent
(Even as you and i).
| Oh, the toil we lost, and the spoil we lost,
And the excellent things we planned
Belonged to the woman who didn't know
i (And now we know that she never knew
' And did not understand.
The fool was stripped of his foolish hide
(Even as you and I).
Which she might have seen when she
lJ threw him aside
/ (Rut It Isn’t on record the lady tried),
So some of him lived, but the most of
1 him died
(Even as you and I).
■' And it isn’t the shame and it isn’t the
: v blame
That stings like a white-hot brand;
It’s coming to know that she never knew
(Seeing at last she could never know why)
And never could understand.
(London.) — Rudyard Kipling.
\ THE REVERSE.
A woman t'fcere was and she made her
(Even as women do).
To a Under yoice, and a virile stare.
(We called hirtl a fool with his curly hair).
Hut the womaa called him a god, and fair,
(Even aV women do).
Oh. the daysjLMit haste, and the time we
And the wftrk of heart and brain.
Is spilled toW the one who did not see.
(And now \m: know he never could see),
Anyone Je’s pain.
A womaj*here was and herself she gave,
'Jin as women do).
Hom>^Bd faith and affection brave,
(And^ne fook didn't try the woman to
Fc woman might fall in an early
(Even as women do),
X^rthe toy we lost, and the joy we lost,
^Jr. i th- eless gifts d* stfoyed,
the reckless grip that did not see
land now wt- know he never could see),
r But only was annoyed.
The woman spdit free her soul's pure gold
(Even as women do).
Which she might have kept from the fool
(But if she counted, it isn't told);
She sobbed and starved, till she slipped
lEven as women do).
And it isn't the shame, and it isn’t the
That hurt? like wrench of a bone,
I. scorning to see that he only can,
(Because he is. what he is—a man).
Pity himself alone.
—Isebel Henderson Floyd.
Jersey City. July S, 1S9I.
(From Buffalo Morning News).
AN AFRICAN DELICAU i.
-1 The flesh of the elephant is eaten in
-! its entirety by several of the African
tribes, says “Public Opinion. A detail
’ ! of the process of butchering the ani
t' mals is not pleasant reading. The
* tiinta liQfyl araiJja.aFfie'Yfc' flfal hftnhvt'fl
> in large sheets. Beneath this is a
. subcuticle, a piiable membrane, from
> which the natives make water skins.
. The elephant yields large quantities of
i I fat, used in cooking their sun-dried
i , biltong, or dried strips of elephants’
flesh, ami also in the preparation of ;
1 vegetables. African explorers of the I
Caucasian race agree that one part of
• j the elephant’s carcass, when properly
' cooked ,is a succulent dish that will
! regale the most delicate taste. This
part, very strangely, is the first joint
of the leg below the knee, which one
would suppose to be the toughest por
tion of the animal. To prepare the
joint, a hole 3 feet deep is dug in the
earth, and the sides of it are baked
! hard by means of large live coals.
Most of the coals are then taken out,
and the elephant’s foot is placed in
the rude oven. The hole is then filled
with dirt, tightly packed, and a blaz
ing fire is built on top, which is kept :
) replenished for three hours. The foot
is thus evenly baked, and when done,
instead of strong, tough meat fiber,
it is a gelatinous consistency that may
be eaten with a spoon.
Some of the North Carolina moon
shiners have embarked in the counter
; feit money making business. Several
mountain districts are flooded with
I spurious coin.
Knickerbockers Show Just a-Trifle Be
low the Bend of the Knee.
Full Godets in the Waves —Al
pacas, Serges and Cheviots Are
the Materials Seen at Fashiona
ble Trouville—Reds and Bluss in
(Copyright. 1837, Ryman Interview Syn
TROUVILLE, July 13.—While looking
for the newest models of bathing suits
at the shops, I struck such a number of
what seemed to be suits of ten years ago.
But 1 am told that these plain, old,fash
ioned looking suits will be seen a great
deal this summer at Trouville.
Alpacas, silk alpacas, serges and che
viots are the materials more often chosen
for this season’s bathing suits. Mixed ma
terials in blue or white, or blue and red,
trimmed with the predominating color,
make very smart bathing suits.
One of the more elaborate bathing suits
had a Jersey of white silk, and over it was
worn a short Jpolero of dark blue alpaca
that knotttd at the front gnd was drawn
1 through a round pearl buckle. The skirt
of the blue alpaca was a double skirt with
the bottom of each trimmed round with
white silk braid.
The knickerbockers showed just a trifle
below the skirt. They bagged a trifle over
the kr.ees, and were gathered down to a
broad band of white silk that but.oned
close below the knee.
The sleeves of this bathing suit were
short pufTs of me alpaca slit at the top
to show the upper part of the arm. They
were gathered at the top and bottom with
Another attractive Darning sun
more simple. It had a waist of deep, red
serge and over that was laid three broad
box plaits of dark blue serge that left
but narrow strips of the red visible. It
was cut long enough to form full short
basques that were belted inn by a broad
red belt. The sleeves were elbow sleeves,
with but little fulness. They were finish
ed with a cuff of red serge, braided in blue
soutache. The red serge that showed be
tween the box plaits was covered with the
soutache going cross ways.
The skirt was a godet of the blue serge,
with a three-inch band of the red serge
inserted just above the hem. Blue sou
tache covered the band. The knicker
bockers were j>f the blue serge. The bag
ged a trifle at the knees ami were brought
down into bands of red serge that showed
just a trifle below the skirt.
A black and white bathing suit that was
extremely chic was made of a heavy qual
ity of surah silk. The waist was gathered
full at the shoulders, back and front, and
was caught down' loosely into a waist
band. It opened both *at the front and
back to show a vest of white surah that
was edged with blue braid.
The skirt was a full gathered skirt of
the black surah with a broad facing of
the white surah around the bottom. Head
ing the facing was a trimming of white
passementerie. The sleeves were full, short
puffs gathered with white ribbons. Full
knickerbockers of black surah were worn
with this suit. They wore gathered Into
broad bands of white surah that fitted
close just below the knee and buttoned
with three small, white pearl buttons. The
corselet to this suit was of white surah.
It was boned like a corset und laced at the
, a wrap to be worn over one's bathing
suit is of dark blue serge. It is made
frxhY xvTfPre nferc^Ts aTiroaST rever o?
white serge that extends from the neck to
the bottom of the garment. The sleeves
ar<* ordinary long bishop sleeves, with a
broad flaring cut! of the white serge. At
the back there is a large hood of the white
serge that may he slipped over the head.
A heavy white cord encircles the waist.
It Is caught through tiny straps of the
blue serge and ties at the front with long
ends and tassels. The lining is of white
Homely yellow rubber caps are draped
in bright bandanna handkerchiefs that are
knotted in the most becoming little ca
The prettiest bathing sandals are made
of canvas of the same color as one's suit.
They are held on with ribbons that are
crossed back and forward over the legs
and tied midway between the ankles ar.d
knees. A bathing suit that boasts pretty
new combinations of color is made of clel
blue alpaca, and is trimmed with deep sea
The waist is a full square necked blouse
of the silk drawn down into a broad
straight belt of the alpaca. Over the
blouse Is worn a bolero of the alpaca with
broad revers. It has ^short puffed sleeves
of the alpu.cn trimmed with a band cf the
T-he skirt is a full godet of the alpaca
that reaches just a trifle below the knees.
It has a broad five-inch facing of the
“A WRAP TO BE WORN OVER A THIN BATHING SLIT."
green silk around the bottom,
ting knickerbockers of the pale
paca are worn with this s*uit.
A pr- tty little bathing suit for at
of fourteen was made of navy blue
nel. The waist was a sailor blouse oi
flannel with a broad "• *i or collar i -
id red and blue flu n< cut 'x±jj ti
stripes formed Vs at the aack. W
At the front the ends of th** collar were
cut long enough to knot in a > r -ln-!iar.d
tie. The sleeves were slightly draped ur.d
reached barely to the elbows v*i-. •* B'y
KiJc llnUhCtl with a broad ‘lannfr
fire STrlpeu narmci. i nr rw.n •>* i,.**:»w*ts
and skirt buttoned on to the waveband > f
the blouse. This waistband was cover'd
by a narrow belt of th • strlp*d goods
made-on the bias. The skirt was a full
round skirt with a broad fa-'iy; 'f the
striped flannel cut on the bias.
One of thi# season*3 bathing $u!ts mat
looks exceedingly old-fashioned r* l ui:t
of cream serge. The waist Is x long Nor
folk Jncket, with three box plaits at ’he
hack and front, lodging each of the pl'Bts
Is a narrow bright red cord.
It Is cut square necked, with a facing
I of the cream serge edged with a red cord
giving a finish. .The sleeves are short
puffs of the serge finished will a hr. d
band of the same. There is .10 skirt o
this suit, and the straight "pan* Boon*”
fall Just to the knees, where th y are fin
ished with a fold of the serge tin: It. bor
dered with the narrow bright red cord.
The bright r. d silk stockings and the
white sandals that arc strapped up with
white ribbons add immensely to this toi
A bright red silk cap of the S3rtie shade
as the stockings Is worn with this suit.
Bathing suits are not so shi.-t as they
were, or perhaps the reason I* that t*uy
do not look so rhort. because we arc more
used to short skirts than we used to to.
The bicycle has paved the way for tl.trr.
The utmost attention is bring paid to
color, and the prettbs-t combine;! r.i.j a*a
thoee that show the finest group* of co.or.
BURDETTE GOES BICYCLING.
He Gives a Graphic Account of His
Efforts in an inimitable letter to a
A report got in circulation to the ef
fect that Bob Burdette was dead. The
Burlington Hawkeye. with which the
humorist was formerly associated, de
nied the rumor, and Bob confirms the
denial in the following letter to the
Bryn Mawr, Pa., June 14, 1897.—My
Dear Waite: Like the true friend and
loyal comrade you ever were, you do
right to protest against my burial prlbr
to the autopsy.
I am indeed very much alive. Not
only so. I haven’t been dead even a
little bit. Not once. Could have been,
had I wanted to be. Could be yet j
But I don't want. Maybe I ought to
be, even now. But. as we make week- i
ly confession—'"we have left undone (
those things which we ought to have
Possibly the rumor that I have gone !
dead grew out of the fact (hat' I have 1
learned to ride a bicycle. I say\*'have !
learned.’’ Not “am learning.” \carn
ed In one lesson. All by myselfV
Went out In the moonlight las^Tri- ■
day night to learn, having first loflLed !
my family in the house and forl»?
them to look out of the windows. 1A
my bicycle out on the turnpike—tml
Bryn Mawr pikes are broader than tliM
way to destruction, twice as smootoj
and much cleaner. It's a young blcy-1
cle—a colt, foaled in ’97. Would give I
the name but for the fact that I had
to pay for the wheel. Will only say,
therefore, in accordance with the ethics
of our profession, th*t it is NOT the
wheel anybody says it is.
I held him by the withers right In
the middle of the road and mounted
without asistance. %
I dismounted in the same independ
ent manner. \
Got on again and proceeded to V^ak
him tc saddle. %
Did I ride the first time? \ ;
People bad told me—liars of a!l ages j
1 ami both sexes—that I couldn’t fall if
j when 1 felt that 1 was falling, i would
! stick out my foot,
i 1 stuck out both feet and both hands
and if" on my head.
1 feil on one jridc of that diabolical
tec! ami then on tin* other; I fell on
tides at once; 1 full on top of it
ith it, and made "dog
^ 1 fell between tho
•'f > • r
n in n
1 in. [.ii..
I’ll'l I il.ili't I li l:i-.
j ye’. i;ve| V tin)'1 1 ^*|||
palms of my raw, sw^B|
1 hands on the hard • ir.pla^R
; ceft the time l fell on mjH
harder and with greater*
landing than any man coun
he dropped out of a balloon
a load of furniture. 1 losfl
'i'"icr. my j. ii".
clamps, lamp. bell and replMlip^|§i
broke one pedal, the saddle ^ndra#
ordinance against loud, boisterous and
abushe language at night. I ran into
everything in sight except the middle
of the road. I sat down on everything
in the township except the saddle. I
Bcorched in a circuit not fifteen feet in
circumference until you could imclf
brimstone. 1 made more revolutioni
than a South American republic, and
didn't get ten feet away from where I
started. I haven’t been so mauled and
ahraided, so thumped and beaten, sc
trampled upon and pounded, so bruised
and scratched since 1 left the army.
But I can ride.
I don’t say that I “do." But I
l>o I consider “biking’’ good for the
For the health of some people, I do.
I don’t see how a physician can bring
up his funnily unless his children have
something to eat.
But In my own case, I reserve my de
cision. I will wait until I know
wnetner 1 am go:r.g to cue or get wen.
And do you tell brother Davis to keep
his obituary on the standing galley un
til he hears from "Slug Nine." 1 don't
believe I’ve got "30" yet; although
friends who have called to see m«
break down when they say ‘good-by”
and walk out of the room on tip-toe.
i but I wouldn't mind that if I knew
what became of my shoulder blido
' the time I ran under the hay wagon.
ROBERT J. BURDETTE.
GULF OF CALIFORNIA PEARL&
The whole coast of the Gulf of Cal*
ifornla abounds in pearls, and last
year $350,000 worth wad harvested ia
Lower California alone. Pearl-hshlng
is the entire occupation of the natives,
and I a Pez. the headquarters, a city of ‘
the peninsula, with about 2,000 in
habitants, is solely dependent upon tha
industry. Every oyster does not centals
Its pearl, and only at intervals Is a
really valuable pearl thus discovered.
The largest one ever found was about
three-quarters of an inch in diameter, J
and was sold in Paris to the Emperor "
of Austria for $10,000. Many black
pearls are found in Lower California,
and are valudd higher than the pure
HAD TO SQUARE HIMSELF WITH
Smith walked, up Market atreet the
er evening with a box of canny un
one arm and a L? packag# of mMtj
the other. I
, Smith.” wid Drown. ’ grm#|
? i d:dn t know yojfl
you doing with that caafl^
see my girl.”
have to furnish the
already?” , BjSS
the randy ia for the gu^^H
for the dog.
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