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MINI If SIKHS
OF 40NG AGO. Victoria Bodices, Greek Tunics, and Marie Antoinette Fichus. Da'll* Fashion Has the Plala Sleeve In Store for Ca—New De •Iras In Silk. IEIOTIFBL IE* SOU FROM til. OlFCIll, IIEIII Vienna. August 1, 1897.—The desire for variety has revived many old and antique styles which are worn by the up-to-date woman with the same grace which distinguished her ancestors. The Victoria corsage, par example, is a new-old bodice brought out by the admirers of the English queen, in hon or of her diamond jubilee. It is glove fitting, almost seamless and laced up the back, and is a pretty reminder of the costumes of 1830. It will make a gracefid' evening bodice for slender women* in the coming season. The front of the waist is closely fitted by means of a "Princesse" lining, with an additional deeply arched seam down the immediate front. The decolette is round with a deep fall of rich lace from the edge. A short puff generally forms the sleeve, but the slender woman pre fers to cover her arm first with a tight .lining of thin silk exactly matching the bodice in color, then over this a thin fabric like chiffon or mousseline de sole shirred with two-inch puffs, each shirring forming a tiny standing frill. This arrangement covers the entire length of the sleeve, and the effect of the colored silk througu the transparent textile above is lovely. At the top the fabric is d aped over a puff of the tinted silk, or there is merely a butterfly dra i pery of the l^hin goods or^fhe lace which I encircles the\tlecolette tt the bodice is » wide enough \° drop gracefully over the shoulders. \ The Grecian dnapery is affected in our model of a te» gown. The over dress of rose colorofl brocade is cut a ; la Princess with a nioderate train, and opens in front over U underdress of white satin embroidered heavily with gold and silver braid. »nd turquoises j In an antique design. 'I'le loose blouse bodice of the underdrew * 'is cut square at the chest, and fort ms the favored ! pouch at the wais^^' here it is held by : a pointed girdlj richly embroidered I with gold, and turquoise. A Greek tunic of file butter-colored point , Duchess falls mm graceful folds from | the front and balk of both shoulders j and ends in longli>oint. The sleeve is ! a dainty arrangement of rose-colored j chiffon at the tc^mjraped over an un- ) der-sleeve or wBBed point Puck-sse. with a full llotu^^Hf the same i- ! . -ki.reil U; -c.A i r!~' broca led s a and n fell rucking of the satuv the hack of the h gh neck. lays of Marie Antoinette are re it sight of the dainty iichu , Drates the waists of thin house dresses or ultiimn in-door wear. A >wn for a young girl is made j-colored India silk. The ilrt is finished simply with but the mull drop-skirt is fer the hips by shirrings, j orated at the hem by two Ited flounces edges w.th car- | silk lace, and a black silk Jace inseHion. Al>ove the ruffles are several rows of black silk insertion, the , mull being cut away underneath, l he close-fitting round waist of crose-color ed mull over an India silk lining has a large fichu edged with two flounces I edged with black lace, and insertion | like those on the skirt. The fichu is draped gracefully over the shoulders, | and the low, square decolette of the bodice, the ends crossing in front and attached on each side of the black vel vet girdle by rosettes of black velvet j ribbon. The* elbow peeves adhere to , Marie Antoinette models by fitting the . inn closely and finishing at the elbow j by two flounces of rose-colored mull with black lace and insertion. As this gown is particularly adapted for gar- I den parties, a large picture hat of fine | black straw with black nodding plumes and a wreath of pink roses under the j brim is a most suitable accessory. i.'aiu6 pgahlQp Is slowly out surely leading us to the plain sleeve, devoid of extra fullness on the shoulder, as many fall models show, although an extra breadth of shoulder is still at tained by epaulettes or ruffles on street gowns, and the possessors of slim arms will be glad to learn that the unlined wrinkled sleeve of mousseline de soie will add to the size of the arm in many of the new ball and evening toilettes of next winter. Silk brocades will be wel- i corned with old-time fervor for even Ing gowns. The patterns will not ex ceed a medium size, and will be greatly in floral designs, as roses with stems and leaves. China-blue forget-me-not sprays on a cream ground, lilies of the valley in natural hues upon a silver gray surface; the last-named, indeed, will be most favored, as gray still holds Its own after a reign of two seasons. A novelty in brocades will be lace pat terns outlined with dank satin on a , light surface. Incrustations of lace, spangles, gold embroiderOs, beads, and gems will be as much as Wer employed in the elaboration of skirl bodices and millinery. Costumer To the Imperial Family o: Austria. A TCA GOWN. Copyright,1^97,by Win. Du Bol». (pt _ ^----—_... . — ~ STOPPED HIS GRUMBLING. Result of a Little Surprise by His Wife j and Mother. Grumper isn t his name, but it will serve. He’s a big man with a big voice, big appetite, big heart, big bank account and rather a big opinion of himself. He belongs to that exten sive class that come in from the coun try, begin in a small way anil pusn along till they are among the leaders in their respective callings. It is not | long since he married a dainty little woman whose chief aim is to please i him. For weeks, day by da*\ he reg- , istered the familiar old compftfnt that j r.o cooking tasted as good as mother's . used to. Mrs. Grumper was so anxious to please him and remove this cause of complaint that she roasted, tried, l stewed and broiled herstlf in the kitch en. but Grumper never ceased to yearn for “mother’s cooking.” One day a plain but cheery old lady appeared at Grumper s front door. She was the mother, and had come a long way just to see her boy once more and give him a surprise. He would not be , home till evening, and his little wife enticed the old lady into the cooking department, determined that he should at last be made happy. The mother j used plenty of grease, made plenty of i smudge and felt more at home tuan she would have been in the parlor. She was induced to remain in her room till the meal was well under way to see if Grumper did not recognize the food ns prepared by her hands. He sniffed the air of the (lining room and there was an unpleasant look on his face. He scanned the table and the look deepened. He tried a few dishes, laid aside his knife and fork, turned to his wife and declared that he could stand it no longer. He had hoped that she would learn, but this was. by all odds, the worst yet. He would write for his mother and she could remain until the wife learned her ways. When he knew all he wilted, admit ting that tobacco might have spoiled his taste, and now eats any old thing with relish—Detroit Free Press. A MATRIMONIAL mix. Hands Were Confused in the Excite ment of a Wholesale Marriage. From the Detroit Free Press. “One winter there was a contagion of matrimony in our district.” recalls a citizen who persists that he is stilt young at 70. "We were a merry party of young people, had a social circle of our own and paired off as was natural under the circumstances. I was the first one to give out that I was en gaged. Soon the returns began to come in from the other boys, and with in a month there were seven of us committed to marry. Someone in a spirit of fun suggested that we make one grand round-up of the affair knd have a septenary-wedding. The idea took and was adopted, because it did away with rivalry incident to such events, and was alike satisfactory to • all parties concerned. At the appoint ed hour we all appeared at the office of an eccentric old Justice of the Peace, who was a jolly soul and a great friend of the young folks. We had given him no warning, but he accepted the situation as calmly as though he made a specialty of uniting people in blocks of fourteen. j «‘Stan’ up there,’ he said promptly, ‘an Jine hands. No titterin’ or tost original as himself and wound up wuh: 'That settles it. You're man | an’ wife, every one of you.’ I “But it appeared in the rapid ‘jinin j of hands two couples had become transposed, and they at once explained their dilemma. , I “ ‘Don’t make a particle of dm - ronce in the eyes of the law,’ chuckled the Justice. ‘I married you all good an’ right. If you got mixed up that s no fault of me or the law. Each fel ler must sort out his own girl, and thatclosed the wedding." » ----o— NOT SO GREEN. The Denver Little Lass Knew the Game and Was a Rooter. Detroit Free Dress. The tnher day a Detroit youth who had come home from college for vacation took his younger sister out to see a base ball game. She was a quiet, demure little lass.' with blue eyes and a timid manner, and she slipped into her seat in the grand stand as staidly as if she were entering the family pew at church. As the game progressed he kindly un dertook to explain to her something about its points, so she would understand at least a little about it. “Now the man is about to throw the ball.” he said. “He is called the pitcher. The man with the stick in his hand is the bitter. He will try to hit the ball, and if he does, he will run to that little bag. which is called a base.” The young man's sister seemed to be M‘Ite interested, and listened attentively to his explanations. Presently somebody hit out a two-hag ger that went clear through the short stop, and lit out for first like a wild turkey. The voung man began to explain. ••NOW.” he said, “if the fielder throws the ball to the man on the bag before— The young man ceased suddenly. His sister had sprung upon the bench, grabbed his hat and thrown it into the crowd, and shrieked at the top of her voice: ‘‘Yah. yah. yah! Wasn't that a hot tamale! Ss-ss-ss-sz-zz-zzz—get that short stop a seine. Go it. Dempsey, you’re a ppach! Oh. Lordy, what a daisy cutter! Get him a basket! Whoopee, don’t that maka your whiskers curl? Yah. yah, yah!” “Sit down, sis.” said the young man In a slightly aggrieved tone. “Why didn t you tell me you were a rooter?” READY TO COMPROMISE. “This is too much!” he exclaimed when his wife appeared in her new bathing suit for his inspection. “Do you thrink so?” she asked. “Well, i’ll take off six inches more of the skirt.”—Chicago Post. DID HE TAKE THE HINT? Mr. Latestaver—I'm going to kiss you when I ... .. Miss Weary—Do it now. while I m still young.—Odds and Ends._ ^': 71 __ They Will Be Gainsboroughs Profusely Trimmed With Plumes Long and Drooping. Four Seasons in Millinery--Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter with “Fall” and “Easter” Added. Waists to Wear With Hats. 9 t -- 1 1 ~~ ” (Copyright 1897, by Ryman’s Interview Syndicate.) Paris. August 5J The first hats of autumn are in the windows. By autumn is not meant fall, when the leaves drop from the trees, but the beween season when summer hats are too light and too fad ed, and the feminine soul longs# for something new. The first hats of autumn will be dis tinctly Gainsborough. The tidings of the lost Gainsborough have awakened interest in this ever popular style, and the hats rre turning Gainsboroqgh ward alarmingly for those who do not fancy the prices attached to them, for Gainsboroughs are never very cheap. The most decidedly picturesque of them all is the Essex Gainsborough, i which has a littte English walking hat j crown, with a broad sweeping brim, i upturned at one side and slightly curl ing at the other. This hat is a velvet or line straw one, absolutely covered with white plumes. Only this and i nothing more! i Another Gainsborough turns up in the back. It is white with a load of black plumes that curl over the tem ple and fall over the hair. A modified Gainsborough is up-tilted at the back and curling in front. The sides are broad and the trimming con ■ gists of ribbon with a few feathers to I give softness to the* top, back and i sides. “WIDOW GAINSBOROUGH.” A pretty little hat that is called the “Widow Gainsborough” has a brim slashed in front into which lace and flowers are set. This gives an admira ble opportunity for chiffon. The top is trimmed with soft flowers, delicate tulle and a single black ostrich feather that gives the note of black. The hat is turned up at the back, and under the rear of the brim is'set lace and flow ers. or tulle rosettes. The waists that are to be worn with these hats are called "jackets,” if thejf , have the slightest approach to the bo- , lero effect. Or if the outside can be ; slipped off. Most of the waists have removable yokes that look and act as little capes. One of these consists of three ruffles falling to the waist line. They are of embroidered silk with passementerie at one side. There are hooks at the left side that unfasten. Another has a deep yoke of embroid ery with a ruff below it, bordered by a band of passementerie. The sleeves and vest are of taffeta. One of the new waists is the butterfly, so called from a black bow set upon the side with wings the shape of a butterfly. The waist is of white silk set in. A delightful waist, also to he worn with the Gainsboroughs, is of dotted . T T1H i Q cijlr Tt' I ♦ V» r» ffAnf r\n«n/\ India stiR. Girdles will be much worn, and they will be made of silk of all colors. There are so many styles of jackets | to choose from this season. The bole- ; ro is trimmed in such divers ways as to insure it against becoming monoto- j nous while its extraordinary popularity lasts* The little sack coat is not as popular 1 as it has been. The jacket with the j straight fly front that fits close into the figure at the back is the smart jacket j of the moment, especially for cloth gowns designed for travelling or shop ping, or outing gowns that are to be worn with shirt waists. Dressy gowns and even evening gowns are made so often with boleros, or the trimming is put on the gown to give the effect of a bolero jacket. . The extra dressy little jackets that are to be slipped on over a gown to add an air of festivity are exhibited in the most astonishing numbers at the shops. The black grenadine gowns that are so popular now lend themselves so prettily to this new plan of brightening up with bright silk jackets. HALF JACKETS. One of the smartest of these little jackets is made of white taffeta. The taffeta forms narrow bias folds that cover the pale heliotrope satin lining in perpendicular strips. The jacket does not fit into the curves of the fig ure, but flies loose and fastens to the left side w’here there is a cascade of white mousseline de soie. Ther*» are 1 no sleeves to this jacket, but broad epaulettes are three folds cf the taffeta, that exflf-'d far over the sleeve of the gown. •J'he collar is a high, straight collar ofViolette velvet mounted by a frill of whfte mousseline de sole. A jacket to be worn with a white pique gown that had figures printed in dark blue was made of dark blue pique. It was pierced in great open-work pat terns and faced 'round with white silk so that the white taffeta lining of the jacket shone through conspicuousily. A bolero to be worn over a white wool grenadine gown is of hunter’s green taffeta. It reaches to the waist band at the back and fits well into the curves of the figure. The front of the jacket is draped at both under-arm seams and the fulness is caught up to the bust line. There is a broad collar of white moire that is slashed to form broatSpointed revers. White mousse }ine de sole frills, headed with a gold cord, outline the collar and revers. The sleeves are coat sleeves of the green taffeta, finished with a narrow cuff of the white moire. Another smart silk jacket is of navy blue moire. It is a long straight round jacket reaching just to the top of the waistband. The coUar and re vers are broad and slashed into unus ual shapes. White woolen braid trims the revers and bottom of the jacket elaborately. The shoulders are cut long enough to form epaulettes, that are cut square and trimmed with the white braid. This jacket is lined with white satin. COOL SILK FOR TRAVELLING. J A simple little jacket to a dark brown travelling suit is long enough to reach to the waist and is cut straight around. At the front of the jacket ; there are narrow revers of the cloth, i trimmed across with narrow black ‘ soutache, forming loops at the outer ' edges of the revers. Under the cloth revers are inverted revers of deep sage-green taffeta, with the broadest j part of the rever placed just at the hot j tom of the jacket. These revers. too. are covered with strips of the soutache j running lengthwise. The sleeves of this jacket are close-fitting coat sleeves of the br^jwn cloth, mounted by circu i lar ruffles of the cloth, that showed in flaring a facing of green taffeta. These epaulettes were covered with radiating lines of the soutache that end in little loops at the edges. A bright little silk jacket, suitable for an afternoon toilette, was made of frog-green taffeta shot with gold. It fitted snug into the lines of the figure and was drawn into a girdle of pale gold taffeta that was trimmed around with bands of deep gre<% velvet. The front of the jacket was cut with too long, straight ends that fell over the j girdle to quite a distance below the . waist line. The shoulders were cut j long enough to form square epaulettes ! that were finished with a strip of green velvet ribbon over a bias fold of the pale gold taffeta. The front edge i of the jacket was finished in the same way, and narrow tabs of the silk and velvet formed frogs at the front. The jacket was lined throughout with pale gold taffeta. A dressy little jacket worn by a mid dle-aged matron was of velvet satin that looked exceedingly rich with her gown of black grenadine. It was cut short and straight around and was lined with white satin. The revers were of white satin. They came from the edge of the jacket at the back, ex- j tended over the shoulders and reached j to the bottom of the jacket at the j front. The left revere crossed over the the satin that were fulled a trifle at the tops. TRIMMED WAISTS. | Women of figure, however, dislike to hide themselves beneath any coat, no matter how . thin or loose it may be; and therefore the trimmed waist will be more in evidence than ever. With the sweeping Gainsboroughs there will be checks and figured silks, all made most elaborately and trimmed with the brightest ornaments. NINA GOODWIN. AND WHAT DID THE SAILOR SAY? i ‘‘Will you oblige me by holding this ram while I open this gate? It is fas- ; toned on the Inside, and I find that I , must climb over.” Such was the remark made by a man standing at a gate in a lonely road, and it was addressed to a t ‘alwart sailor who had just come up. 1 ne only other object visible on hte long, straight road was the large ram. whose massvve crooked horns were being held by the man as the two stood qquite still in front of the gate. ‘‘Why, sartintly. shipmate, said the obliging tar. as he seized the big horns. ‘‘I thank you,” the first holder said, when he got to the other side. ‘ You will, no doubt, be surprised to hear that I never saw that ram until to-day. The vicious brute attacked me about hair an hour ago and we have been tussling : stand before him holding his horns , tirmly, he can't hurt you. Hood-bye, j I hop© you will be a© lucky in getting away from him as I have been.’’—Odds and Ends. -o--. CURRENT FUN. j ,J “You have all sorts of pie, I see by a sign In the window." said the facetious customer, as he went Into) the bakery and addressed one of the; young women who stood behind th 51 counter. "Yes, sir What kind do you want?" 1 “I will take & magpie, if you please." At this remark another young wo- ! man snickered, but the other girl turn- ; , ed to her promptly and said: "Here, j Bertha! You’re wanted.”--Harpcr’s Bazar. During the Honeymoon.—She—What 1 1 was the first thing you thought after I you had proposed to me? ^ He—I thought what a fool I’d been to ever have any doubt that you'd say "Yes,” considering the way you jump ed at the chance.—Cleveland Leader. “You Nawthunuhs," said the gentle man from Mississippi, "seem to have none of that high sense of pussonal honah that puhvades the sunny south. ’ "Think so," raid the Hoosier. "Just you go down to one of the barrel houses and call the barkeeper a slob, if you think the high sense of person- » al honor is extinct.—Indianapolis Jour nal. "It’s a lucky thing for some of the old composers that they didn't live longer," said the German critic. "I don’t quite see why. They are more appreciated now than when they wrote." "Yes. but they'd be punished for leze-majesty, sure. They have been using some of the emperor’s musical ideas."—Washington Star. "I went in for amateur photograph? during my vacation.” said the summer l man. “There was no end of girls for subjects." "But how did you make out among the girls “ "Oh. I got a lot of negatives."—Phil adelphia North American. Hungry Higgins—I wouldn't mind goln’ to Klondyke, if it wasu’t fer hav in' to dig out the gold. Weary Watkins- That ain’t the worst of it; It has to be washed after it is dug.—Indianapolis Journal. I Perry Pattetle—Here Is a story on the paper about a guy (frownin' hlsoglf in a bathtub. Wayworn Watson—I don’t see what he done that fer. Suicide is enough of a disgrace, any way you do it.—Clncln nati Enquirer. "Why do you laugh at his Jokes? It Isn’t possible you understand them, 1 Is it?” "No: hut if I didn’t laugh he’d try to explain them.”—Brooklyn Llfo dissatisfied. “Of course," said Mr. Kronnlck. at hi looked through the fmoked glass at the eclipse. "It had to pick out a day when It was comparatively cool and comfort able." "What do you mean?” , ' I m< an 11,• w.>uM have h.-. n | sense In the sun's acting this wn t loir one of I «qnri_hi_rj*___jjjirr PROOF. “I told you he didn’t know ai about real mining life." i*‘d the forty-ntner. ... ^ ••Hut he talk* vrry convincing!! * It He must have had f expel “No sir. He hasn't had any of real thing.” ^ “How do you know?’ ># 1 “He says he wants to go to Klondlkt. -Washington Star. _ . ., • real estate Real Estate Agent (out We*t) GoihI morning, sir. What can I do for you . William, bring this gentleman a cigar. Do you want to buy a lot? caller- No. I want to sel one_ f Agent—William, never mind the cl- i gar.—New York Weekly. , A PUIILIC FUNCTION. M ••Whflt does that crowd mHan?” I “They're Chicago newapapeiN men. Mr. ■ “Hut why do they *warm ntt>und that hotel?" “They're j»-t awalUng to > • tClavo land Plain-Dealer. _I THEY like it cold. “Flverythlng freesea up In Alaska In September." “Then, I fancy, a lot of < hlgago tors would get rich out there.”-Chit. Record. _ the first hats of autumn will be gains boroughs.