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The Wheeling intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1903-1961, October 14, 1922, Image 19

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86092536/1922-10-14/ed-1/seq-19/

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Several Silbouttes Are in Evidence, Including the
Cape, Draped, Bloused and Paneled Treat
ments ? Effective Sleeves and Shoul
ders Featured ? Collars.
?V ETR V woman ,-hould determine
rhts season. If never before, to i
make herself us attractive a*
carefully selected clothes will
::K?k9 her for rot in years h.ts such
?'n opportunity for clr* --int; up to her
individuality been open to her.
Fabrics arc' b"aiti'ul. the list of;
trimmings. wi*h wnich to adjust linos.
Ions and varied, and colors are so !
closely graded that the usual difficulty
of matching ton*?, tints and shades is
practically eliminated. Only an un
derstanding of what is what in fash
ion. coupled with a ser.se of one's i
own requirements is necessary to
? omplete satisfaction; the rest is1
merely a matter of adjustment, at
least, to the woman who is possessed j
of dress sense.
Involving many new details that
emphasize the trend of fashion, cloth
coats arc yet unusually pia< tical and
serviceable. Many of them are sim
ply, notwithstanding ni'ch embroid
ery. much fur and other trimming
motifs in profusion, which frequently
are found together in a single gar
ment. as in the very good looking
mode? shown above. It is of soft
brown innrvella, with its circular back
.-option of all-over chenille embroid
ery, and its shorter cape-front band
ed and collared with beaver.
It Is not easy to classify these cloth
coats. The majority of them, like
the one jus: described, are elaborate
in detail, strikingly fashionable; yet
somehow entirely suitable for any
occasion for whi -h a clofh coat could
he required. The combination of cape
and cf>at I-. one of the features that
contributes to this qualification, and
another ts that the colors, the shad
owy browns, the new r-ds. black and
the occasional neve blue, arc in them
selves a bit more distinctive than the
-hades ordinarily introdu ? d for fall
wear, and this givs a n? w ftisi mbl?
effect that is neither too formal nor
v yet lacking in dignity.
There are, however, many rape
wraps that are oxprcsslv designed to
interpret the more pra'C.oa! mode,
such as tho one <>t Juliette cloth also
illustrated. Ill this there is a long,
straight c.'pe wh.'h is made separate
md can l>e worn ipnrt from a.three
quarter eape which is raised sufll
??untly at the nerg iri the ha- k ???
produce a dcf-ah-d flare, causing this
?ape to s'.t d well out and away from
?he under one.
Fmphast/lne Side I'larcs
For ''oil's, as in dr*:?se? there seems
to bn a continued interest in flying
panels, shoulder cape?, irregular hems
and o'Iit features that produce flar
mg side effects. As an example of
b 'h i tendency, none ;s triore apt than
I'm one pictured herewith of veldvne
w ?h beaver trimmings and tl e u'dity
coat with its hint of the military in
.fs lines ami cs bands of fur fabric
introduced as iriuitumiie The former
?rtl<es ?n the r>iu?-h civc'ed '-oat-wrap
hoes. although the large, square
-moves are .-T--n r-l*? ? and the
\* - is* line Is marked w.th many rows
splrring The patml at :h? back,
whieh. sfar'ed a' 'he Mo.-k underneath
a rondeau enl'it ..f beaver, drops !'>
?e hem of the i-r.-jt thef' to be Jfufh
ere<1 info a point and finished with a
t.> >vv brow- ?:!!. ? -e! w:ii?-h nil nut
?r? -h? s the t'oor. r- ? ?jnlv provides for
additional warmth but adds consider
4. r
ably to the peculiar swinging ! oes of
this model which are further mdt- i 1
by the side panels weighted wjtb fur.
The inod'. l .11 basket-cloth has i.-1 *? >
rov el details, chief of which is tlm
cape th.it is conttMucd into a panel
that is wide enough .md iong enough
I to cover the entire hack of the ? oat
after forming a .shoulder cay. The
I coat fastens invisibly iiy\v:i the ftont
'and has a . ollar of the goods shirred
I Into bauds of fur fabric with which.
J also all edges are o it lined.
Since ih?. silhouette is so variable u
[quantity jh'.s season, coats follow the
| cue and are as offer Paring or bulky
as they are slim, but about each thei*
lis a certain luxuriousness that is n?.
I ttceahle. even heyoiid what the h?autv
| of their fabrics arid the fins and em
1 broideries that adorn them would
give, li cannot he deiinitelv ?apressed
and fan only be ascribed to the
| riitiar combination of all the details
? that co to make up the coats of this
i season.
Cfetumc < oats
It is not at .ill strange that the
| prominence of the sepatut*- coat
! should have led to a demand for
! elaborate costume coats, as It has.
.The materia Is. even those for the fair- 1
J ly moderate-priced top coats and
J wraps, are so smart that, as already
I intimated here, they autonia'n allv in
I speak ;t formality out of all compan
| sou with the coats of those other sen
! sons, when |.ri>mlcjot li ? >1 1 scant
! half iloi'.en other fabrics made t.p the
1 complete list.
The dark 'die velours ill us! rn: evl
j is a wonderfully successful ov-rumc.
i The jabot is faced with the sat." light
I gray crepe <|e chine witli which ;is
I long coat is tided, ami iliem is a
j charming blouse of the ??xact shad
j of gr.iv cr> pe to which the skirt is at
! laclpal with a Mat *iIv-m braid ai.d
I two rows >?f silver soutache outlining
in narrow belt. Very fine silver rnt
! tat! traces an all-over design op the
1 blouse. Iniil silv er soutucho with sdk
! embroidery tortus a pretentious
, border for the coat while many rows
j ot the soutache encircle the Hawing
: three-quarter sleeve* to give ihem a
; fitting lirii.-li. The coat fastens close
1 up to the neck with a tiny collar of
Hudson sea! and again at the vvaist
; line vv.th a buckle ??< tarnished silvei
Sm ii CO.T.S ;|S . h?-?e loose sW igger
tones are easily adaptable for wrar in
: place of a separate wrap, and many
. women, devoted to the fa'lored suit,
apd not wishing to assume the ey
j.A| f a cloth coat for lw; sea
sons, are utilizing tli'tn until the fur
coat becomes imperative. As they are
made up in a greater varte'y of colors
than the separate wraps, there is an
I other pretty distinction about them.
They are, to he sure, more like the
: separate coats of years ago than the
1 wrappy coats of today, but the Amer
ic.ari girl always was partial to the
: tailored idea and in the midst of a
. perfect, avalanche of the former
models these suit coats, so admirably
shaped that they must have i.epn
; fitted over corseted usure-. are much
1 sought.
Idght "1 oats With l?ark Frocks
Xothing is smarter. If onlv by virtue
? of contrast, than the three .juirt j,
? bat of one er another of the hi*
fabrics, but parti.-utarly ??ti? .>f those
j of stjede finish In a bi?qur. a grav er
i yellow, topping a Mark dress The
nsn.illv has h dress of its own
tua:?i*ial and is !.nrr| with sotno start
ling color ?" . ft i lif proper contrast
there hip it is 'he light coat, never
over r'n ji:mu the three quarter line,
worn ?"?.-a-.iMially with a dark frock,.,
tha' gi\"s ,i real till p r?? the fashion
st-iso' >:?! just i?f j Jen' iit;-. provides
for ; v? ,i . .,*? ,1 nies iti place ..f one.
This suggestion is interestinnlv car- i
rie.| p it ::i i t'it>?u.jie of pigskin ,
till-ft* i >ilk and wool weave.
Tile . ?? ?? .-v :i ranInii hack Willi a
front . r< ilat ? it llovv t!ie two
? ire .i'l.ii'al .-i 'v ' lie <|i signer can tell,
f'?l . I til" Win a with li i!if two sec
?t.t fiier with the sleeves
f; i.fi ? ..it sieves ordinarily
. <? o \ t? :i iiiijch shorter
s 1111111111 i* ? ni.i. lies :li? novelty. It is
most ,jiui.s'i.i| with the hem-line very 1
uneven ,ia.j Inch front and hack very I
\vii!? !y fl it'efl Th- coat, like the other j
: aht red m.-n-ls described. has its
ovv a dress. Ini* .it the ~;?11. time, |t
w:o oh. .olisIv de.sfciicd to l?e worn on
it- as on vi'th a dark dress, and Is
e\t | more ili.s'iiig'iished m that com- ;
!?! tat tin A collar and hroad cuffs of
sknnl. for prov.de a perfect "last I
foij- ii " ii it less that rests with the lin
in". v\ ii"h n marvelous llame color
I. ... . .
-atin with threads of gold !n It.
I Tt is J;:<t another of Fa-h ion's little '
' contraries that with skirts suddenlyl
dropped to the instep or ankle, short [
' coats should become * f;'d. P-ut true |
If is. If th? Ions coats -an 1 this ap
plies both to ttie suit?and to the sep
arate coat ? at"- popular, so. too, nro
tite very short box-coats, coats thai
barely reach the hip-JIne. coats that,
cover the hips. and,,.is if to make the
came of Fashion more intricate, really '
tiny coats that no more than cover the
normal waistline.
These lust named are r- ally the !
novelty of the season and, strangely t
enough, they are not exactly as ex
treme in appearance as would seem i
from a mere description of them, for,
there is very apt to be a longer back- j
panel, as in a smart coat of this tvpe
developed in navy corona, without
which it is a style possible only to the
exceedingly slender figure. In this
coat, as In mo?r of the models, there
i is a fur collar with tabs In front and
there are narrow sleeve-hands of fur'
and loner lines of embroidery clown
j the sleeves, a!) of these features being
j studiously contrived to give style lines
that will counteract the abbreviated
effect. *
I^ess embroidery f? seen on the fall
and winter coats. What there Is Is
[ of chenille gold thread and tine silk
rather than In the floss, and frequent
1 !y in conjunction with beautiful Hat
>.lk braid which usually appears on
sleeves or panels rather than on the
body * of the garment, as last year.
CHK wise bride. In these practical ;
days, considers not only her gown
arefully but u!l the other details
too. choosing not simply what appeals
to her for the moment but what will
retain its charm and usefulness be
yond the day of days.
Materials should be rich and of an
excellent quality but It Is not neces
sary to be rashly extravagant and to
acquire dozens of articles more than
any bride could hope to wear, for
tnines change so rapidly that advance
stocks, even of lingerie, are a mistake.
The gown Is always a matter purely
of individual choice adapted to the cir
cumstances of the bride, the character
and hour of the wedding and the po
sirion in society the married pair are
to occupy after, but for the trousseau,
the wither gowns, the underthings and
?he infinity of small belongings, any
bride-to-be might appreciate a few I
For the negligee, for Instance, there j
are some long, wide-sleeved things in
coat effects that are adorable. One in :
daffodil yellow crinkled silk crepe is
edged all around with white moufflon
about two inches wide. The coat turns
I away at the neck with tailored revers
and the fronts are caught together at j
the waistline with long ribbons.
Then for her feet there are, first of
I all, mules in red and silver brocade }
' that tie with silver ribbons around the !
ankle to prevent them from slipping !
off as mules have a way of doing. An
arched toepiece is edged with fluffy
i white swansdown.
A little boudoir cap of black lace
is most engaging. The black lace
forms the top which Is gathered into I
_ -
a band of silver lace finished at either
side with a narrow frill of creamy
white lace, and from under thla drop*
a second and wider frill, after the
manner of lace frills on hat brlme. -j
Corsets for the bride are amazingly J
lovely of soft and supple whfte satin
with hardly a bone in them, embroid
ered with sprays of orange blossom*
scattered about over them. The
strings are of strong white satin rib
bon and a frill of real lace finishes the
top, while from the lower edge fklh
another flounce of lace, this time logff
enough to serve as a petticdat. lhli
last touch, however, the bride ?t to
day adds herself.
Lace edged handkerchiefs are book , .
in fashion and the discerning bride
will acquire at least one for the wed
ding occasion.
- ? ? -1??? Mh ' . /
r> A n s of/^ewand
'OfvJ Impress 1 ve Charm
?? i b- in K- iuhb with (ho other'
.t"r*iV ??-r??i??:outfit (his
"iisim !? i i'11i.i is ami purses are |
both ?i n. , i i" I Ix-iiulifill, with
:.?i"i d.fTi r\ pes from which to,
link' .1 si'l* rKiishfoti will have ?
<>f fh'' vom mon place. hut,
whatever can ImaM :i il"Rr'o of dis- j
tire ? I'm ?? oii-i'.'i
'''hii ;wi h ? urticans illustrated micht
,.i<il\ lii.nl !hv lis*. for they nro not ?
only flls'lnrtlve im: possessed of a.
,,aie; rle.i.inc" that is not always |
? hara (eristic of ? :< h I?:v\irio? jm types |
l; ,? h are room;, ami convenient n*
w ? * 11. i
'I lie luir; of moire. brocaded with
vi I ??? In .i small s. jtlte.l e.l flower de
sir.i. is nioiii)f-i| to a slender silver,
i.rnin;e viii!i|.-,i with tltiy amethysts
'.-(?td ;n"!i a clasp of silver tl 11kroe
I snrrotindinv; t large amethyst. It is,
limn! with c?lestial green chiffon,
which, 'ike thi* \ ejvet. Is shirred ;
across the tr.j. ami fitted out with a ,
change purse in ih" brocade moire i
and mirror and powdcr-hox with puff!
of silver with fllicree mounts to
match th" frame.
The chiffon velvet bag pieiured. !
with fs more delicate hut no less
lie.nit fit! mounting of itold filigree. Is
e.\cjuisi:cl\ Ii:>? d wiilt apricot silk, hut
has mo fi ' ioi'v ?-|v.? r,,r fipy pocket
tor ??Inm.-e N a all th" hairs are so
I con-i i - a! ive in shape, though luv.iuse
of its usefulness, i' j* among tiie most
popular and has lent itself to many
variations one of which shows n plain
vi Iv ?: with thi ends solidlv headed In
ier and n I'-f mounfiiiB. Another
variation transforms I lie model Into
. a hair of Oriental aspect, for this time
It Is of brilliant blue velvet mounted j v
to a much more pretention* though , v
less oosfl.v frame of Mark gnlahih j 1
with a Mood red stone as n central '
motif and. depending from the setting '
a .section of Knotted fringe mute '
twelve Inches lone. 1 41
Originality of design Is fairlv let ! f
loose in bags of this nature with their ja
<?dd combinations of color and fabrics, i
their sumptuous mountings of gold
and silver, their decorations that,
would have seemed parish and om of J
place In any season less given over to !
the odd and bizarre The workmanship I
on the great majority of them is all j
that could be desired so that they are i
worthy competitors on that scr.ro with
the bags of sturdier nppearanee.
Charming bags of velvet in fascinat- j
inc colors which, of course, must he ;
chosen to harmonize wi:h the costume
which they are to accompany, come in
oval shapes and have fringes of o-trirh
frondes in the same shade finishing
the edge, and a little tuft of the feath- i
ers caught to the renter as a decora- j
the motif which, at the same time. I.
serves to conceal a Utile mirror con
veniently attach'-d to the outside of'
the bag. flrcen is a favored color in j
these hagK as in others both in fabric j
arid leather and is found f?> have a
peculiar afhnitv for almost nnv cos- '
t u nie.
I n hags and i ur*es of a inore fall- ]
ore.) aspect there are two lypc*. those i
, In leather and those in fabric, each e>f |
which, while there are not so many ;
i varieties as in the pouch bags, still
; boasts a great m.'inv novelties.
< >f gold brocade in envelope shape j
lis a smart purse with a chain handle. ,
chile another, longer and not quite so
viih-. is of black moire with a delicate
racery done in gold thread covering
he whole. Moon parses are n fad.
fit ere are any number of them por
ed discs of moire or velvet with
tring handles and fringed edges, but
mlv the larger ones arc as useful n.?
i handling or even a purse should he
Wnunti'il lit Drlicnt'' I ilifT't' (it'lil.
'I his (hlfTon Nt'licC ll:ic \
I'runt I'law Amine Aisvssmlrs.
One Of The neaiitiful New I'aHs Baps
Of Brnended Vrlvet With A Jewel )
Set Frame.
i for titer hold so little Then there nro
the watch bags. the hwagper lues and
j the vanity rases, rarh type with Its J
j own persuasive features.
The first mentioned, as the name j
Implies., has a watch inset in one
I corner, In the renter or. still more i
| popularly, in a pendant setting sus- j
penrt?'d frotn the clasp. This feature
; is very new and allows for all sorts!
I of attra' tive possibilities In the man- j
j nor of framing the watch, of which j
j the designers have taken full ndvan- i
j !as;o. In some of the bafts, wile re the j
! mounting is elaborate. the tiny I
i watches a-e framed and hone below
j (lie clasp like miniature clocks. They j
i.ar- removable and ran bo carried in
side the bust if preferred.
The swarcer basts with their tele- l
scope prUCIIVilJCa UlU ??. ? U.J m , /
equipped, not only with vanity dm4
fuls and the requisite compartmBBt*
for change and bills, but they BlB*
have a watch tucked down In OB*
corner of the outside and a flap that,
fastening with a email silver Claop
opens to disclose a small writing
witli siI\or pencil, a stamp case and B
couple of envelopes, thus antlcipatlag
tho occasion for an emergency not*.
In porketbook shape in morocco BT*
some sturdy looking vanity eases BBd
purses combined which, at the sans*
tinj". arc really smart. They ar* \
rimmed with gold and decorated with
pretty taurines In white, somctlmM
in low relief. They are beautifully --'A
litied with silk and have all the n*c- fl
essary equipments of the shopper,
each article in"its own well-arranged
compartment. J
liibbon bags. bags which are <>f J
leather but with moire ribbon r*ro 1
inches wide looped around them, their * t
ends taken in with the steel mount
ings, anil some envelope-shaped purses
with one single band of broad tnolre
stretched through the center, ar*
not'*.! among the moderate priced
novelties, and there are many purses
in leather that are studded with St*ei
and bags upon which steel bead em
broidery liuure*. ^
.Many women like the ttny Jap
anese purses, ?hat are Just larg*
enough to hold dimes and nickels, to
tack Into their handbags or into th*lr
sleeve, otiffs These come in silk
lit oca I OS or in plain silk with a dec
orative bit of hand painting on the
Rvcning bags, apart from the danc* r -Hjj
Ivies, are of brilliant colors and. Ilk*
th?> bags illustrated, of velvet brocade,
of one or another of the lovely m*Ul ...4
cloths or of embossed chiffon and
with frames of gulaltth or stoo#*
studded filigree. The chiffon bag*
have one layer posed over another,
ea< h of a different color, and the** L
tines are mounted on amber or J
tiocti.-r-nf p. arl frames and are th* S
daintiest things Imaginable. H

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