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Slenderizing Lines in A EW MODELS QJ ID - Bk ^ 1 S^zp/SITyry/y^ | ^yCTy^yO^r^XJZ^y | twit <7&s*yy I Of^^f 1 \ \ 'I 4 ?i y^r^/T/P /xzzyy 'I I * z?zwzzzyczz ^zzyz? c^^>zzyz>yzrz ^zz&zzz? I uniisiifiiitv. and one mnre up and \ , - | (Iv M r sTZflf/XT ?y f\v /9 CX.j?W>f C<Z/7~ f/ /O^T~rsC/p/y//yc? There's a Noticeable Ten- ? dency To Proportion In I Line, Color and Trim ! ming - The Increased' | Length of Skirt Gives ^.Appearance of Height Draperies An Asset. one watches the whin-.sicali ? W es of the mode w.th more at- \ M nt:v twon.an ;ho tends pleas:: ? pnt -s which demat 1- slenderiz I ing appar.-l Matei >? i I trimmings--each one has .ts impor I tant pla ? ? \ : Lto he ad? ; P? r Broiki ; Hftedium. stout. It; t i t. th- s? ? <? r.?: of ?the success of any niod?? is ::s ;ulnp ?tabllity. since it then possible for Bach type Bhe mode t her purpose Hnd her par*Icttl.ir s*\ . Tin-re are Hlways new ilwnys Hertain changes . iv follow. Hhether r and Hurer for a Hpss. or short s*o :t and on a PklO|)s Specialize In Stout \pparcl ? No longer the ftntly display models that ru in Blz? from thirrj H ap ? d for misses, ipparel for slender Mfolk. and garments for "he f?;!!-r:ir ? wopian. \ ? jtores h i ? B^ro certain Hethtre attent ? jible "need of the w< so aim tikes*' ? the larger and ts it. So ?cleverly nr ?and cut, ^alterations wh ? do, It is only in the - T e ? value of this ? t- c lognized. since aJly . r.i ?tion changes lines ? ?access or failure A ?gown should partii ?ler model ?full rat:ip- , ftizes. ? Ways To Perfection In <*owninst. I Three thimrs demard ?!>?? trmnst Honalderatioi Ruil-figure I womai ?fabric, color and 1: three ^Be first Is. perhaps con-ab re! bast. ^Bhen In reality it has tr.i<di (jo ^Blth the ultimate suco -s of a model. ? 5 a gen- 1 BhouM b?* are ?finite ?of weigh*. It- warv of . ?. :i;i ry . satins and trlcolettes. for !n nearly every instance a crepy weave, or a soft pile fabric is greatly to be pre ferred. Once seen, the "perfect flfty foiir." complacent in a shiny gown, ail a-bob and a-flutter with frills and odd bits of trimming, is an object lesson never to be forgotten. Colors Should He Somber When it comes to color?blues, browns, black and taupe are the pref erence. An old story, familiar to all. perhaps, points a moral that is op portune. It teiis us that when nature c'.othed the humming birds and but terflies. she reveled in glowing, exotic, peacock colorings, but when ;t came to choosing a garment for the elephant, she selected an inconspicu ous taupe, exaggerated, a bit. in its present application, but straight to the point in its intimation that dull colors reduce apparent size. Color there may be. but only a hint or a suggestion, in a facing or a motif of ornamentation, cleverly placed. As to tines, they must be up and down, not round and round; no sudden starts and stops that make for broken lines. Trimmings should add to the appear ance of height, else they have no rea son for being. Short ends, and odd. bizarre or any wise noticeable things should be avoided strictly. There should be the decided effect of long lines?sweeping, unbroken lines, that make for graceful l>?-ight. The Adaptability Of The Present Mode There is every reason for the wom an inclined to plumpness to rejoice ;n th? present day mode, for it is kind to her, both as a whole, and because of its adaptability. The ma terials are specially becoming, since the crepy weaves, the velvets?both *ilk and wool?and dull surfaced serges, trlcotines and twills are the favorites. The vogue for velvet Is a becoming one?supple, it drapes: lustrous, without being shiny, it is llattering to the over-developed form. !.aee is much used for afternoon and evening wear, alone or in combina tion with velvet or Georgette. The colors most widely shown are black, blue and certain shades of the modish brown. Trailing draperies; the un even hemline; loose, flowing panels; sleeves, wide at the edge ami the towered waistline are the outstanding features of the mode that adapt themselv -s satisfactorily to stout at t:r". i:?,rh draperies and the uneven j hemline :t< 1 <i many desirable Inches f i to the stature, and the coat-style ! I dress, one of the favorites of the sea son, is an excellent model f?>r the i woman who is large, especially when i long line trimming from shoulder to | i hem is utilized. And fashion decrees j j that when the love of color is too j strong to h" denied, it may be intro j duced into a vestee. or sleeve and : panel facings. ltetter yet, a bit of costume jewelry may he worn, for it lis. most decidedly "the vogue." The Pictured Models Are Ideal Tvpes i Poth powns of crepe, illustrated j ahove, shmv a slightly lowered waist line an>l i Just-the-rlnht-width cir<l Uoth have an uneven hemline, the! one at:ai:ie<l l.y side panels: the other i by an overskirt effort, that routes to a derided point en one side ami j roaches to the instep T'.<- trimming; on the latter is sidf-turking. .1 touch of color in the sleeve fat ing anil self- j eoloreil ilrops. plaeeii at the exact t??? 1 rit where thoy accentuate length of liti ? The sleeve shows a to w wrist lire that has a two-fold pnrpos<?j down line to pive an nppcnrance of 1 heiphl. On the other pown, self- I colored outwork adds the necessary ! touch of trimming, while the orna- ? n\ent at the waistline contributes to the slenderizing effect of the panel ing. \ Cmvn That 1 Ixempliflos The Mode ( There's a wide pirdle on tlie soft , wool velvet frock, and a cleverly ar- j ranged drapery that subtly accom- ; pllshes the desired effect of helpht It has all the characteristics of the present day mode?the drapes; the <ide panels; the lowered waistline and tile nnnsttn' sleeves, the latter cleverly] bloused to give added length of line. | Picture the sleeve without the bloused j effect, and you will instantly see its j purpose. The long, swinging loops of Jot heads are trimming sufficient to assure individuality, yet In no way detract from slenderncss or simplic ity. Jet, again, this time in an orna* j mont and a narrow link girdle, brings out the beauty of the lace that fash ions a frock suitable for afternoon or evening wear. Draperies that come to a point on either side, and long! sleeve lines contribute to its un doubted success. Dull Colors Predominate In Those Models Blue ami black are preferred colors in the pictured models. Black is the choice of tlie gown of woo! velvet and tlie afternoon frock of bice, but the crepes are to lie had in either black or blue. A clover use of contrasting color is to be noticed in the gown with the beaded pattern that outlines neck, sleeve edge, slightly lowered waistline and the panels, front and hack. These panels are so arranged that they swing open b-dnw the waist line and give a glimpse of the nar row strip of areordcon pleating which comes to a point just below the head fringe that helps make the uneven hemline. Note the beading is be neath the narrow belt knotted at the side, and the contrasting color does not appear until it is quite safe for it to do so. Were it to appear too soon, it would shorten the waist and spoil the slenderizing lines brought I out by the beaded design that edges the panels. As it is, it accentuates these lines. Each separate model is. in itself, an excellent example of the type of gown that best becomes the woman who is generously propor | tioned. They show long lines, an en tire absence of arresting color, and sobriety in both fabric and trimming. An Item Of Great Importance One thing should bo kept constant ly in mind in choosing the slenderiz ing model. It is no use pretending, even to one's self, that size is not there. When one Is admittedly large, 1 much may he done to obviate the ap j pearance of size. I would hold a bit of a brief for the woman who Is , plump, with her unlined face and [smooth neck lines, that are the enevy of her slender sister, she gives j strict attention to the fundamentals ! making her choice with an eye to harmony in lines and colors, always ! remembering that strict tailoring I makes for distinguished individuality, j she need have no fear of the success I of her costuming. She will achieve | an appearance of slrnderness, where ? slenderness there is none. I The Wisdom of a Firm Foundation fi.M fro<-ks. with an! roki-n |.n? ?< ro.ii ii'M'k h-t?'. diparm cl?, tf<J finally tutiicvr i ->< oonS.-l ll' hra.--P r? -? art is.ia ir. I |<:?t!-| known as a c>' > dtp. If' ?r worthy of th?? popularity :t > ;i |. 4 S" with the i ? w isori Jii> r< s>?the so-caltr*il 'vosrunp.' slip the j irtpjc'to Idous.-. e now votfin- of ;?!??????! sk.r* :mi! astinsr ovcrMoure a fa>h:on combines puinnmy w.'h smart* especially ivh^n :rt .s af d fc. a ho.li.-e ?.f ?}!?? s.ir:,>; r::a Usually this mat. rial ?repe. am! when it ;?? not !mx. d It has flvintr pav-ls f?!?*???! < r in hem. . Thus is the rostumr si rated to the (h-tm'v a lovely enouith ??? w? tr ivith ? ? t. ?he mm*. elaborate n.atela^so jacket ><?: rriN<; tiii: oi.d S<? varied are the styles in Jewelry, i 'hc.se days, and ><? limitless the jmrpiw s -ii which those delightful hits (if (!? cora* inn lend themselves, that mo ??; !:k'-!v '?> fori;"' the old tirtio jijo -os that are j?;-? t as lovely now as in the days ftone hv. If you !? lucky enough to possess a finely cot ("irnoo rinn, (ir one of the deli ? !:??!>? i irvcil hrooches in !'s frame of vol'l, treasure it, at:d wear It in pref , r'-u: <> -r, something newer, yet far !??>- lovelv. That the new !s never ? lU.te as lovely fas the old. Is proven hv "he ft r *ha' they're malum: Imi tations of the old s" y led rings and hroo-'hes. ami showing them along with other "new" fashions in Jewelry. i <2/2 F nil tho modes that h ivo come | gout of France?some of them ? Vlustinp, ''Ut most of them tran 1 stent? ill*' vopuo for tlio coatoo j I has sprunc most promptly into favor It Is. at the outset, convenient and | distinctive, with a direct appeal to the i woman exacting in taste, yet consid- ' jorate of iter own real comfort. It ' may. or may not have been tli" popu- ! 'larity of the three-piece suit titat j I taught the world of women the use-| fulness of the separate Jacket coat, bat sure it is that the short coat of 'fur, or of cloth, fur-trimmed, lias no rival :n outer apparel, this most in-? t crest in tc season. For sports or trot tour wear, over tho one-piece dress or the more elaborate frock for after no on, its uses are varied its smart ness undeniable. < ?f the furs that . fashion it. caracul is. perhaps, the1 t most popular, not only because it is. ? i iri itself, most attractive. J?tjt because it comes in various shades brown, ' taupe, hoipe. platinum, as well as Mack and white. It i< durable wear- j able, softly rapped, and. if on" may | coin the term i' is essentially a sports like fur. fit her furs that adapt ) themselves to tho eoaf"o type, are squirrel, mole, In-aver, slynx. Hudson i seal, wild eat. civet cat and conev. and each lias its own particular j ! beauty to !"? offse* or augmented in some particular wav. There ut' really three distinct type* of the fur the Idouscil i.i l.et type with ttpht tittinp hip band; the blruised jacket with i circular tlure. i I confined a* the wu -Mme with l?dt or j ttlrdle; atld t!: s'.-uich' hip leiiPtll COat. boxed, a bit. 1'i'h tvpo bus n at v variations us to dot i ! ind trim mltips. Some clibose another fur for trlmminp. others depend npou the surtie peltrv for ruffs, collar. 1 ??? *f or I plrdt". 1 " tails of fancy buttons. I clasps and ornaments make for mi- 1 , us nality In nrinv mod- Is I':irt and pareel of the coatee mode j is tlu' cloth jacket, designed fur wear i with a separate frock of cither match- I inn or contrasting: color ami fabric. [ The rotate for the separate pleated j skirt, to ' he worn with a costume; Mouse, js accountable, for many of these smart coatees. The lap skirt, draped on one hip, and worn with a I lone w c.sted Mouse top of some rich material demands the Moused or I semi-Moused coat, or some model kin to it. There are sevotal variations of' the Moused coatee. ranniny from the hip hand jacket, fastened with a clasp, to t!m Moused, tie-around jacket with well defined, low waistline. A lid while one Is on I lie stihjeet of jackets, some models are even Ion iter than t he so popular hip length type. The 'mate- ! rials that fashion them are. as in the case of the cloth coatee, rieh and strikinir. many of them heavy with hraidltn;. embroidery and metal I thr?aditiK. frequently '.he cloth coatees are some color or material that form- a contrast to the skirt. Not j only are materials and colors used In . contrast. Put plain and decorated | fabric- \ favorite combination is the . one-piece frock of some soft -material, j preferably crepe, worn with a jac- J i|iictte .if ?ntln 111 11el as-.- i*i the same color bb ? VI s are ornamental, col-; , a i s f ostein ,| )i). 11 ale- ?, the throat, j f-'eW lamb Is l.lllliv fevers. V et i Mi 1111 ra tn lib at ion of the sa me idea is the so railed "Jaequette" or coat blouse, also Paris inspired. The! connect hoi with the coatee of cloth 01 fur may readily be seen, since tto- , blouse |? worn beneath the outside Jaeket, or. on warm days may take i's tdace this latter, of ci ttrse, when the! fabric of wliicli it is made is a heavy one. This type of blouse has quite ! usurped the place of the slip-on style. ; arid when it is worn with a pleated j skirt, it makes a costume of unique at- ( I rant iv eness. It has mnnv \ a rial Ions, j as every really distinctive mode should \ have, and though It may appear in j many guise* and disguises, Its purpose! ami effect is much the same. Velvet j appears in the coat Mouses, so do j metal fabrics, the heavy crepes, and. i of course, matelasse. Matelasso is' everywhere, the vogue of the moment | ? and a moment, perhaps?but lovely, just the same. An example of clever designing is a coat Mouse of crepe tie chine in or:" of the new, soft shades of brown, the sleeve edge, hip hand, and rever edges bound and embroid ered in heavy black silk; a second | coat blouse of black panne velvet lias i monkey fur fringts for its adornment j while Japanese embroidery, done with i metal threads, elaborates a jarquettc of henvy crepe. When crushed satin is used, it takes no trimming but a I double clasp at the wide hip band, j No other adornment is necessary, as the clasp is richly ornamental In it- I While it is the pleated skirt that j is most seen In combination with these ] coatee and Jacquette effects, there are many other models much In favor. Side draped models in velvet and crepe and wrap around models in velvet, vie with the sports type?Wth pleated and wrap around?that demands homespun, tweed, twill, tricotlne or one of tin- novelty woolens .as their | medium of expression. I a both the pictured models there j Is simplicity, of the sort that expresses richness and Individuality. The stir- | pliee line is evident In both, but more; pronounced In the jacket of caracul Neither takes trimming to any very, great extent. ea<-li one ha.<r the correct amount, no more. The Jacket of car acul profits by its collar and cuffs of kolinsky, while the broadtail protlts by | th<- utter absence of cuffs of any do- j scription, and wisely places Its faith in the bell sleeves with their orn.u- j mental buttons. The clasp at the hip- I liti<- sets off the dark loveliness of the | mmmm J/nUlr/ilm m An Ornnntrnlnl Clasp Ami Buttons Fnlianco Tin* Beauty Of Broadtail. Fox Collars It. broadtail fur, while the Mark rimmed buttons smarten the caracul. Kaoh model takes its own becominfr way to smartness. In passing, it is well to note the skirts that show beneath these typical (*<?.*? tees, for they show th" tendency of tiie hour to soft J a da pt.ilde fahrics, subtle draperies ; ami the lieceminjr uneven hemline. si.kmyms a ism long I >1: !??> seasons. now, fashion has a" ;>inn< ! her faith?and -with coorl j J reason - to tiie treatment of sleeves. Ite^innlntr with models of | excessive width, they have ranged through various stages of fullness tc the close, tight sleeve that is a fea ture of some of the newest gowrjs Almost without exception, sleeves are long, but that is the only thing on which they do agree. Some show puffs above the elbow or at the wrist, others have ruflles over an extremely tight wrist band or gauntlet cuffs in triple tier style; and yet others are slashed, or long and circular or leg o' mutton. Generally speaking, they're highly ornamental, showing clever trimmings and embroidery. 1 A Coat Of Natural Caracul. Made Sur plice Fashion. Favors Kolinsky Fo. CulTs And Collar. co