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THE SOUTHERN HERALD, LIBERTY, MISSISSIPPI.
Sleeve Style Is i Matter of Choice j New York. The weather prophets and the fashion prophets do not go through life hand In hand. There Is no cordiality between them. It would seem, Judging from the way In which they oppose each other, observes a leading fashion writer. You may have noticed this situation In some slight measure, as an observ er on the side lines, caring more about the state of the weather than the state of fashions; but those who must deal with the latter as a dally issue, and must try to conform the output of fashions with the output of the sky, deplore the separation. ' The utter audacity that women have shown since the beginning of time In regard to the caprices of the weather Is a part of the history of the civili sation of man. To return to that fig leaf : It was probably the only time in history when the climate was met with the right sort of costume. Since then, Idle world of women has gone on the path that suggests obstinacy. 1 Take, as an example of the pervers ity of the present moment, the incom ing fashion of Mnch sleeves at a time when kid gloves are difficult to pay ifor. The women of today, we are quite The sketch shows a cape of sand-colored silk cashmere lined with Jade green crepe de chine. The high collar is edged with green silk, which alas makes the long cravat sure, have no idea of attempting the methods of the dlrectolre by going about the streets with entirely bare arms. Josephine, the empress of the French, may have believed that the short sleeve was correct for her time; but this Is a workday world, full of the rush hnd Impetus of activity and 'open-air activity at that. We might have a chance of looking like a group let loose from a boiler fuctory at mid day In August, If we rushed about the streets with our athletic and slightly red arms protruding from 5-inch capes, wkuiut sleeves. Ideas In New Sleeves, i One feels. In running full tilt agnlnst the tidal wave of new sleeves, the utter futility of trying to describe even the best of them. One would think that the world hud gone quite mad over arm coverings. Possibly It Is true that the French and American designers, realizing that they could not introduce anything especially brilliant or novel NEW COLOR TRIMMED GLOVES Touches In Wee Tuck of a Different Tint Add to Summer Gloves of Heavy Silk. i The embroidered gloves and the new color trimmed gloves are so popular that It Is difficult to keep a sufficient supply to meet the demand. Through out France families for four or more generations keep on making gloves as a business, passing it on from genera tion to generation. While this hns resulted in the French glove being the best mude and often the most original In design. It Is significant to note that the really prac tical heavy glove f'r universal need Is rarely made In France. Such gloves come from England. As to the new summer glove, the heaviest quality of silk has added touches in wee tucks, sometimes of a color different from the main glove. 8ometlmes there Is a very narrow plaiting about the top of the glove. Nothing will replace the white chamol nette for general wear. It is so prac tical foe every purpose that it will tn the new costumery because of the lack of materials, put their genius to work in devising a vast variety of complex and stimulating minor details. In summing up the situation of to day, one feels sorry for the woman who would try to keep up with the shifting kaleidoscope of sleeve that the designers have turned upon us. However, a comforting solution of this startling situation Is that every sleeve seems to be In fashion, and If a woman becomes paralyzed from even regarding the over-production of new spring sleeves, she can merely go on with the sleeve she has and feel that she Is in part of the picture, If not In the forepart of It Long Sleeves Fashionable. And to show you how capricious fashion Is this year, the longer the sleeve the more fashionable It Is ; that Is, If It starts out to be long In an evening gown It may continue to the knees; giving the effect of extreme novelty. These long evening sleeves are of tulle, and sometimes of fine vermicelli lace caught In some manner against the arm, so that they will not fall away from the hand as It moves. This Is pure medievalism. There are sleeves taken from the Italian renaissance. These are cut to immense bell-shaped openings at three quarter length, rolled back on them selves In a careless manner, and lined with Roman striped silk or with crepe de chine in a blazing color. There are pointed, bell-shaped sleeves which hang loose from a wide armhole, gaily faced at the lower edge, but held taut by a tight-folded wrist let that spreads over the hand, after the manner made fashionable by the early queens of France. There Is a skin-tight sleeve of the dlrectolre, which also flares ovef the hand and sometimes has an ornate thumb-hole through which that finger Is thrust There are sleeves for the street that are formed of wrinkled cloth, that reach from the knuckles of the hand to flare like a gauntlet well above the elbow, leaving Just enough space be tween the edge and the shoulder to show the cap sleeve of another color und fabric. Cape Are Numerous. There are as many capes as sleeves this season. Even If you are Indif ferent to new clothes you cannot es cape these two features. There Is no reason for your wanting to avoid them, for they cut many a Oordlan knot. The cape covers much; the new sleeves re deem much. The top coat Is only admissible to day when It Is a double first cousin to the cape. If It ripples from the shoul der ; If Its sleeves seem to be a part of that ripple, and If Its fastening down the front Is negligible, then the top coat is admitted into the society of the best clothes. Otherwise, It must be barred. The cape rules the hour. It gives every woman with an attenuated cos tume, made according to the request of the government, a chance to take to herself the grace of a butterfly. She disguises the lack of material In her frock by ripping out her cape and looking like some winged summer crea ture that has a right to the beauty and Joy of life. No woman should try to escape the cape. If sho Is stout she must ar range her garment In some way that will allow her to get this background of color and grace There are severe capes and gay capes, ornate capes and simple ones. It Is not necessary to make one choice. (Copyright, 1918, by the McClure Newspa per Syndicate.) not soon lose the hold It has gained In every woman's affections. Blue and Red. There Is In all the new gowns a recurrence to the fashion of more than a quarter of a century ago In the nse of navy blue and artillery red In combination. Jenny is one of the French designers who bright ens a blue serge with a red belt and cravat and puts in a white linen vest to finish the patriotic coloring. Che- rult uses a fiat collar and revers of artillery red on a navy blue coat suit. Other designers use artillery red Rus- slan blouses over navy blue gabardine skirts, with belt, collar, and cuffs on the blue. Red and blue hats are strlk ingly featured In all the milliners' windows. For Your Table. Table covers are not all velvet and silk. Long, narrow ones of a coarse thread, creamv crash are verv much used. Embroidered In heavy silk In a conditioned flower design In yel low and green, black outlined and red-centeredr-they are most artistic. FIGHT OR GET BUSY SWEEPING EDICT TO IDLERS TO MAKE NATION EFFICIENT IN WAR. IS TO BE IN EFFECT JULY 1 Order Takes Registrants Out of De ferred Class Ball Players, Golfers, Clerks, Bartenders, and Other, Must Find "Useful" Employment Z THESE ABB HIT BT ORDER TO noar OH WHS. 0 Idlers. Gamblers. Bucket shop employees. Race track attendants. Clairvoyants and the ilk. Professional golfers. Professional baseball players e (probably). Elevator operators at clubs and a etorea. Club and hotel doormen. Waiters In hotels and clubs. Ushers in theaters. Attendants at sports. Persona In domestic service. Clerks In Korea. Specially Bzesapt. Actor. Bulletin. Washington, May 23. General Crowders new "work-or-flght" regula tions may require professional base ball players either to engage In some useful occupation or to Jdra the army. Baseball players, as well as Jockeys, professional golfers and other profes sional sportsmen, General Crowder said today, will be affected by the reg ulations If strictly enforced. General Crowder said he did not desire to make specific rulings at this time and would make rulings only when cases came to him from local boards after July 1. Bulletin. Washington, May 23. Theatrical performers hare been excepted from the new draft regulations at the dl rectlon of Secretary Baker, who Is said to feel that the people cannot do with out all amusement In war time and that other amusements could be dis pensed with more readily, Washington, May 23. Habitual Id lers, ball players, gamblers, barten ders, and many others are Included tn an edict Issued today by Provost Mar shal General Crowder, providing that every man of draft age must work or fight after July 1, under a drastic amendment to the selective service regulations. All draft registrants en gaged In what are held to be nonuse ful occupations are to be haled before local boards and given their choice of a new Job or the army. Gamblers, race track and bucket shop attendants and fortune tellers head the list, but those who will be reached by the new regulation also In clude waiters and bartenders, theater ushers .and attendants, passenger ele vator operators and other attendants of clubs, hotels, stores, etc., domestics and clerks In stores. Deferred classification granted on ac count of dependents will be disregard ed entirely In applying the rule. A man may be at the bottom of class 1 or even In class 4, but If he falls with In the regulation and refuses to take useful employment he will be given a new number In class 1 that will send him Into the military service forthwith Local boards are authorized to use dis cretion only where they find that en forced change of employment would result In disproportionate hardship up on his dependents. May Solve the Labor Problem. The statement of the provost mar shal general's office Is as follows: "Provost Marshal General Crowder today announced an amendment to the selective service regulations which deals with the great question of com pelllng men not engaged In a useful occupation Immediately to apply them selves to some form of labor, contrib uting to the general good. The Idler, too, will find himself confronted with the alternative of finding suitable em ployment or entering the army. "This regulation provides that after July 1, any registrant who Is found by a local board to be a habitual Idler or not engaged tn some useful occupation shall be summoned before the board, given a chance to explain and, In the absence of a satisfactory explanation, to be inducted Into the military service of the United States. "Any local board will be authorized to take action, whether It has an orig inal Jurisdiction of the registrant or not; In other words, any man loafing around a poolroom in Chicago may be held to answer to a Chicago board even though he may have registered in New York and lived there most of his life. "The regulations which apply to Idle registrants will be deemed to apply also to gamblers of all description and employees and attendants of bucket shops and race tracks, fortune tellers, clairvoyants, palmists and the like, who for the purpose of the regulations shall be considered as Idlers. "The new regulation will also affect the following classes: Persons ensraired In the serving of food and drink, or either, In public places, Including hotels and aociai clubs. M Pnagcnirer elevator operators and attendants, doormen, footmen and other attendants of clubs, hotels, stores, apartment bouses, office build ings and bathhouses. 'fcl Persons. Including ushers and other attendants, engaged and occu pied In, and In connection with, games, snorts and amusements, excepting actual performers tn legitimate con certs, operas or theatrical perform ance. '(d) Persons employed In domestic service. "(e) Sales clerks and other clerks employed In stores and other mercan tile establishments. 'Men who ore engaged as above or who are Idlers will not be permitted to seek relief because of the fact that they have drawn a later order num ber or because they have been placed In class H, Hi or IV on the grounds or deoendencr. The fact that he Is not usefully employed will outweigh bot of the above conditions. To Extend Nonuseful List "It Is exoeeted that the list of non- useful occupations will be extended from time to time as necessity will re quire so as to Include persons In other employments. "Temporary absences from regular emulovment not to exceed one week, unless such temporary absences are habitual and freauent. shall not be con sidered as Idleness. Regular vacations will not be considered as absences In this connection. 'The regulation further provides that where such a change of employ ment would compel the night employ ment of women under circumstances which a board might deem unsuitable for such emnlovment of women the board may take such circumstances Into consideration In making its de cision." General Crowder Explains Plan. Explaining the new regulation and the necessity for It General Crowder said: "The war has so far "disorganized the normal-adjustment of Industrial man power as to prevent the enor mous Industrial output and national organization necessnry to success. "There Is a popular demand for or ganization of man power, but no di rect draft could be Imposed at pres ent. "Steps to prohibit Idleness and non effective occupation will be welcomed by our people. "We shall give the Idlers and men not effectively employed the choice be tween military service and effective employment. Every man, In the draft age at least, must work or fight. "This Is not alone a war or mili tary maneuver. It Is a deadly contest of Industries and mechanics. Must Copy German Machlna. "Germany must not be thought of at merely possessing an army, we must think of her as being an army an army In which every factory and loom In the empire Is a recognized part In a complete machine running night and day at terrific speed. We must make of ourselves the same sort of effective machine. "It Is not enough to ask what would happen If every man In the nation fum ed his hand to effective work. We must make ourselves effective. We must organize for the future. We must make vast withdrawals for the army and Immediately close up the ranks of Industry behind the gap with nn accelerating production of every useful thing In necessary measure. How Is this to be done? "The answer Is plain. The first step toward the solution of the difficulty Is to prohibit engagement by able-bodied men In the field of hurtful employ ment, Idleness or Ineffectual employ ment, and thus Induce and persuade the vast wasted excess Into useful fields. "The very situation we are now con sidering, however, offers great possi bilities In Improvement of' the draft as well as great possibilities for the com position of the labor situation by ef fective administration of the draft Considering the selective service law, we see two principal causes of detri ment of the call to military service exemption and the order numbers as signed by lot The exemptions themselves fall Into two conspicuous categories depend ency and Industrial employment. One protects domestic relations, the other the economic Interests of the nation. Between the two there Is an Inev itable hiatus, for It .Is demonstrably true that thousands, If not millions, of dependency exemptions have no ef fect of Industrial protection whatever. "One of the unanswerable criticisms of the draft has been that It takes men from the farms and from all useful employments and marches them past crowds of Idlers and loafers to the army. The remedy Is simple to couple the Industrial basis with other grounds for exemption and to require that any man pleading exemption on any ground shall alto show that he Is contribut ing effectively to the Industrial wel fare of the nation." Epitome of Events rlN MISSISSIPPI-, Happenings of Interest Gleaned From Many Sections of the State Told in Paragraphs Natchez. The district draft hnii of Mississippi will hold sittings here for the purpose of reopening deferred classifications granted by it and tot Adams county local board. s Biloxl. Mrs. Charles Wells, a na tive of Harrison county and resident of Biloxl for several years, died at her home here. She Is survived by her husband and several children. s e e e StarkvlHe. One of the oldest citi zens in this section of the county, Carnes Nelson, who was born at War-, erly, Tenn., died at the home of Mr. and Mrs. A. M. Harwood, in Hickory Grove vicinity. Columbus. Since the work rooms were opened in this city by the local chapter of the Red ross, last June, It, 856 surgical dressings and 5,916 hos pital and knitted garments have been shipped to New Orleans. Purvis. Within two weeks three lots of Jersey cows, totaling 43, have been brought here by local dealers, who have found ready sale among farmers who within the year became Interested In the dairy Industry, a a a Blue Mountain. The farmers around Blue Mountain are feeling good over the crop prospects for the present year, stands being good, crops being clean and the condition of the plants being healthy and full of promise. IMIt Bay St. Louis. Commissioner John Jenks recently resigned his position to volunteer in Uncle Sam's service and leaves this week to enter the navy. His successor, Alphonse Favre, recent ly appointed by the board of super visors, has assumed office. see Memphis. An appeal has been made by the canteen service of tho local chapter, American Red Cross, for 500 magazines dally to be given to the soldiers passing through the city on their way from camps and canton ments to embarkation points. Ill Sfl iPascagoula. The city council his appropriated the sum of $10,000 and the city of Moss Point $7,000, which with the $8,000 available from the na tional government making $25,000, will be used in introducing proper sanitation In the shipyard districts, e e e Columbus. During the session of the Mississippi Industrial Institute and college, which is now about to close, students of the Institution have been valiant workers for the Red Cross and have made many garments and other articles for shipment to sol diers. Jackson Plans to make Missis sippi wheatless until the next harvest will be put Into effect within the next few days. The campaign will he launched during the week by the state food administration. The state has already reduced Its wheat con sumption 50 per cent. Senatobia. A petition signed by the local draft board, the government ap peal agent, the county superintendent and the county farm agent was for warded to Adjt.-Gen. Scales ask ing the selectmen, who are farming and who have been notified to go to the cantonments May 25, be given a 30-day furlough. Bolton. This section Is producing one of the finest Irish potato crops ever grown here. Because of favor able weather conditions and being en couraged by satisfactory profits from the sales of last season's yield, the farmers have planted larger acreages to this crop and devoted more atten tion to It than ever before known here. uiuvkiuivu. iuo ttKricuiiuiai visorv Doarn or l.inen n r.nuntv is mak ing every enort to organize ana nav iu ulceration oy uciooer a couuiy i" . . . ine county fair to compete as prizes to be offered by the state fair. Tire.i t r 1 1 k .1 - Ljim Vi-iB shipped four carloads of cattle to St mi ripnn rniflnn in Ynionnnnii ruunu Potts Camp. Arthur HolUa'! months ago. was arrested by Dnnev sheriff nf Marshall rnuntv. SBd nts deputies. Holland reststea ana refused to surrender and was shot is) being forcibly arrested. The shot pen irated the body of Holland, going en tirely .Miro'iR-h. yet It Is thought Um, iiuim im i it n iintHUB nas luiuiDtj m that Hollavd will likely get wall