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Copyright. 191J. by tfc Star Company. Ore&t Srlt&lQ Xllg&U Referred. .'i - . i : ! . -Sill : f 1 j s. 'i tv,' " 'it i''"-' V;..- .? -&--.n.i '. 1 - - V - . ' - " '! , . '. ' - I'.----'--? f ' " I . . i. . -.,..--' -' 1 . .-V -41 J . 4 'VS.: : . V . 1 r i i, -' . V ,'' V-:J v y . i-. - . J ' ' i 1 . -y: v -I i I - " IJ-t- LL"jL: i .' LT" mm 1 ' I .' Early Autumn Modes Which Show the Marked Tendency Toward Mannish Effects in Smartest Tailored Costumes 1 LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famou3 ,,LucileM of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady DufT-Gordons Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York. . ' . t l. - . , - . - J. -v- l'y : i : :v ,- ill "v.- i. " -r .! if ! J Stunning Tailored Costume Showing the Flowered Waistccat and the New Chiton Tunic. yf By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile"). JARIS has evidently .grown a r bit weary of the eternal feminine, and there is a trend toward the masculine in the early Autumn costumes. There Is a certain boyish touch that Is very charming, I think, and I am glad to note that the redunXant frllllness of the present mode is to be toned down Bomewhat. Of course. I am devoted to the femlnJne myself la clothes and manners, and I deplore much of tho rampant strenucusness of the pres ent, but, after all. the Summer Is the time for frills, and when the Aufumn cornea with Its more "serious work and pleasures one should dress a little more severely. There Is nothing at all nun-like In the new costumes. They are tailored of course, but not too severely. Their masculinity is shown in the waist coats with which nine out of ten o? tho Fall tallleurs aro fittted. In the past when we wanted to say o. some woman that ehe was utterly mascu line we have eald that sho wore the breeches. To-day we might say that ehe wears the waistcoat. The most Important thlug about the new waistcoat (1 do hope that none of you ever call this a vest) U that It can be made of some highly colored fabric contrasting with ths costume Itself or that it can be high ly decorative in effect. The giy and ari-colored cretonnes and velvets are very effective, and are perhaps more modish than any other fabric. Next in importance to the fabric used Is the stylo chosen, for thero are many different kinds, each one Just as pretty as the other. I am sending you two examples of the waistcoat costumes that I liko very much. They were worn at Auteuil the other (Jay, and were admired exceedingly. lu one ol these costumes you will i,i I, i iHjM I i i Ii!" i y-mn,my',mj,jmmiS . r .-.'. t t - .V t : V ' " 1: .,.- I . -iv- f V:- ;t-. B'v-j-,:'; . . -. - -.-' . v y f '.'.'V, .. .-, - - ?. 1 l 4 .!v,:,v;.fv r-.?-. -a i... t . 4 2 - -v 4 V ' .' '-.'t :.-. : ..: ,r 4' fci f : ? ."v" rA' j. - ' i's- g Tft-ji-ifniB n - mi r in T-n r- r n n Quaint Afternoon Costume of Rose Voile and White Channelise, Showing the New Draped i Skirt. 3 t J4-- Jfe Brighter Side of Turkey Trotting note the double-breasted effect which is so smart There are two little points similar to those on the men's evening waistcoats. The whole cos tume is, I think delightful. It is brocade eponge. The curious little tunic of accordion pleated chiffon is one of the very smartest touches. These tunics are tery popular with the mondaines whose figures are 6lenderly youthful. The coat worn with this is one of the many Russian blouse models with which wo have been Inundated the past year. The manner in which the sleeves are fin ished is, however, new, ard I think rather unusual. Worn with this is one of the piquant Tarn o Shanter hats of velvet which promise to be very much worn this Winter. The Recond waistcoat costume la of hunter's green velvet, and the waistcoat is a charming but some what cubist effect in green and red velvet The turn-back collar on the waistcoat is one of the new touches which when added to a gown mean so r-'jcb, and the adorable handbag of green taffeta needs no praise; it is so perfect And now just as a fillip to this dis sertation on clothes 1 shall send you the picture of a quaint little gown that I designed for a recent bride. It 13 one of those semi-transparent affairs which have captured Paris, Vienna and even New York, 1 hear. The under body is of chrmeuseand lace, white of course. The curiously Involved drapery for that is al) the upper skirt Is and the bodice are of embroidered voile. The colors aro rose and white, and the crushed girdle is of rose silk. The hat you have seen before, but never a back vifiW. Rf 1 m sanInT thla fnr vnri to 6ee for yourself how the roses aro Velvet Costume, with oingle-breasted Waistcoat arranged. and Eton Jacket; AIjo New Taffeta Handbag. ---7: ,. ':' - ' - ' " t - i )U '"''"' . ' :s J5f H Am? -Ky- A-.X Vi ''r-; A I - --'-7 i;? .7 iC 7 . Ky 5 mm & 5 v Fa! 1 n ii h 8 f