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STNDAY. .T.r.RY If, 1H17.
THE SOUTH BEND NEWS-TIMES --r- 1 - t - . -.4-. J aic ' " Fall, Straight Skirt Seems to Point to the Narrower Silhouette; The Pocket Persistently Appears Xi;v yoi::;. j.... l ra-hion continues in ways of straight and unabated fuln---. :-kirts fall in soft, dinting fold--, so much so that Die tendency toward the narrower silhouette tecomes very ajj.;irent. though we need nor. y t anticipate iho very narrow -k'rt. It is alr'-ady rumorc-h hrvfwr. that skirts for spring will be tu. and two and a half yards wide. Put if. Is rrally looking a little too far ahead to b tliinkir l' of spring styles nlrradv. At pit sent shirts arc Mill very anid-. Pox pl'-ats and side pleats ar w ry freely vis 1 . and Uda rn'-aiis tliat a good deal of matt-rial is i!-d in a dre-s or skirt. Thf pl"at h,'inr' in straight lines, gen erally nntitched as far as the hips and hdnw that point are pr - d in to position. Tho gradual lengthening of skirts that has com with tin vogue for -draighter linos is noticeable in many dresss; hut women, on the whole, hae not takn i f tdi.v to the longer skirts, arid the short skirt for street costumes is still favored by a great many. A long street skirt Is really not graceful in a tail ored suit, and wornn are not will- i IJIaek Satin !re.4 With Tie-on Col lar and Loop I'm Kci ing to t. acrit.ee hecoming styhs so readily. In afternoon and evening dres.-es, however, the longer skiit is not at .'ill ungraceful. Sonn- ;it"t -rimon and owning dresses show slight varia tions from the straight lints. Tip Turkish trouser effect and draped skirt come from Paris as a depart ure from the extremely straight hanging and clinging effects. I'u 1 1 overskirts are also much used for ever.inir, fashioned of soft silk voiles, tulb-s an d laces. IUa k and white comoinatams o-eur very often in evenitiT gowi-s. Ulack net worked up with white heads o.er a white satin foundation is one of the striking compilations used by an expert l"rench d si:;n - r. A sash of hlack satin forms a wide girdle, which is weighted at the ends l.y heavy black and white oad tassels. Head 1 Embroidery Wry Prominent. Head embroidery is a strong rial just now of the dat ned-sti'ch em broidery worked In siik and wor sted. On hüe backgrounds, white :inc colored heads used most effectively. The white chalk beads on dark satins and s.lks form very handsome trimming's. Vends of various colors arranged in designs to imitate th popalir Paisley ef e fleet is one of the newest develop ments In bead work. other very attractive col r r.'Ta' i' ati'Mis are al so seen, such as d ;il blue, ob! rose and brown on huht t.m b.ickuround. Recent costumes from Paris also show that machir.o stitching is a very prominent form of trimmine. Rows upon rows of stitching are used at the edges of co.its and on collar and eufts. The stitching i otten done in silk of a darker shade than the material it is :.ed on. and sometimes In the s:r.e shtde. pockets still IVtit. When we cor-.sid, r the traditional fickleness of Fa -viion. it steals as though the lite of the pocket has been very lone. in. Iced: bit the pocket still t'.ourish-s on s :its. coat und drsss and sho-.vv tht -loiht-r t siirr.s of beoorv.i". vtiib't. Tho latest de n i :;. -nt In this line is the Ion', loop-like pooktt pl.-.ced over tho ),i and standing away from the skirt. The smart afternoon dress of M..ck satin shown in the, ketch illustrates this type of j o. ket. :tl-. the new tie-en collar, which crn-M ; m fioiit and ties at the h.o "k. somewhat likf tip- tp-on jumpers The bT' loop po. kt t t- Ii-.: .!! mad- of i . oVr hi a cr,traT v. ith the di v - ' it i- of the jMiine lu tteiiai. i .t jl pr sence i Mill ! SX ,11. biff II: A fill W smart For Spoil, or lail I'm. emphasized by some trimming in blight silk embroidery or in heads. Or, if it is mail- of tin- same mate rial, it is simply lined with a con trasting color. Hip-length coats with the pinched effect at the hack and a straight front are try smart for the ser viceahle suit for daily wear or for the sports suit. The hack is hedted Willi a rather wide belt stitched down over short pleats. which produces tho pinched effect. With this type of coat the full box-pleated skirt makes an excellent costume. In mannish mixtures and jersey cloth, these suits are worn for shopping, sports and for practical use. The sketch illustrates one of these jaunty suits in bricht green jersey (loth. -tf o o 0 o o o o 0 o SJL o Do Men Ever Understand Women? Iiy Lucille Caine. There probably never lived a man who didn't Hatter himself that he understood women. "They're a puzzle. of course, to most men. but I think I know a lit tle about them," one hears him say in a lordly, superior sort of way. There is only orre answer to be made to thi- satisfied gentleman. The man who thinks he knows most about women really knows leaM. In point of fact, it is impossible for any man, however, clever and experienced, fully to understand woman. One woman he may learn a little of very little and then he i continually taken aback by new developments in her on which he has not calculated, but let him only bein to apply tho knowledge so learned to his treatment of another of the same ex. and he will be be wildered and confounded to dis cover that the same rules will not apply to them both. Shakespeare, who had a subtler insight into human nature than any writer who eer lived. was right v. lien he said of woman: "Time cannot stale her infinite variety." And it is this very complexity of char;'. cter. this fleeting change of mood and dispositior , w hich makes her so desperately perplexing to slower witted man. To the ordinary man she is a per fectly sealed book. "I can't make her out at all." "She is a mass of contradictions." "She never doe; or says what you expert." These are a few of the plaints made by met: about tho Kirls in whom they beu'in to take a special interest. If she were constructed n the simple lines of a man in mind and heart, her lover would better know how to win her; but, in that case, it is to be doubted whether he would care to take the trouble. It is her bewildering and puzzlimr nature that makes her ihief charm in his eyes. "Do you understand women?" asked a timid youth of a man who had seen the world. "oh, yes. I understand that there's no understanding them, and that is as far as a m.an can ever Ket," was the crushing answer. Women understand each other with ease; they read each other's motives and h.ieipret aright their looks and t and unspoken This attractive the i illow uiven material. Work the scallop well mercerized cotton OOO OoO (7 Disposing of By Ada Patterson. A wonderful woman is paing a visit to this country. She is old, but young; crippled, but powerful; a great grandmother, in fact, but a girl in spirit. I-ike the pyramids, she is unique. She is one of the wonders of the world, be they living cr dead. One of the wonders of her, and perhaps the reason for her won der working, is her motto. She carries it about with her in such frequent forms of reminder that it creates her personal atmo sphere. It is engraved on her sta tionery. Its initial letters are stamp upon her desk furnishings and toilet articles. It appears in a little jzold monogram in the lining of her auto mobile. It is spelled in letters of cold against the deep crimson elvet of the curtains that drape her stae. It is "Quand Meme!" An idiom of the language of her nation, it means "In spite of all!" When she was a small Kirl of ppeech it is all such plain sailing to them that they look on with a kind of compassion on a man's blundering ignorance of the sex. That is why a woman who is popu lar among men is so very often quite the other thing with women. The poor, deluded men who take her precisely at the valuation she intends them to cannot compre hend why her own sx cannot see her many lovely qualities, and. in their blindness. they complacently set down the reason to jealousy. The real fact is that the woman can't deceive women, try as she may. They read her through and through, and estimate her accordingly. That men nver have fully under stood women is plain to any one who has made a study of the male novelists works. Kveu the fore most name.-; in the profession have this one point of weakness. Their women are admirably painted from the outside. They are charming very often, and attractive, and full of grace. They move and walk about the stage and conduct them selves in a life-like manner enough hut any. woman can see that, after all, they are only pasteboard dum mies; they lack the touch of Pro methian fire that would make them flesh and blood. HAIIY PILLOW. This dainty design may be used effectively across the top of a baby pillow of sheer linen. Place the desimi above the place where the baby's head will rest. Work the Mowers and circles in eyelets, leavea and stems in satin stitch. Fse mercerized cotton No. 25. o.i:iti.(;i; covi:ic. design for the top of a baoy's carriage cover matches in the preceding pattern. l.-e pbjue or som similar 'lowers and leaves as m the preceding pattern. Pad before working. Initial may bv used if desired. L'ee No. 1Ü. Difficulties nine, exuberant and audicious. one of her playmates cried "You cannot jump across that brook." "I can." the girl answered. She tried and fell ignominiou -dy into the middle of the pool. Greeted by de risive laughter, she hurried dripping home and to bed. yet flinqing back across her shoulder, at her tormen tors: "Ihit I shall, quand meme;' For weeks her mother nursed a sprained shoulder and scolded her too daring offspring. Hut the child's resolution grew. In her restless sleep she murmured. "I shall, I shall, quand meme!" One day she cleared the brook with a leap. Naturally, for what long resists the onslaught of a de termined will? I grant you that if this young girl had flung at every obstacle in her path her defiance. "Quand meme," she might have acquired heartbreak and shipwreck. For some obstacles1 are better walked about, avoided, heeded, than overcome. They are the obstacles in the way of that which v.e should not have. To say "in spite of all." to attack and over come them, is tossing away that strength of the will that should have been expended on 1 etter things. Hut she had an intelligence that penetrated the true and false in values. She knew what was worth wanting. Fpon th obstacles to the worth-while things she Hung her strength, crying. "Quand meme!" She developed a genius the exer cise of which has made her one of the world's great. She is known and admired throughout all the thinking portion of the earth. She is beloved and revered because she has kept her flame burning brilliantly to the end. They who have been guessing who or what the superwoman will be. have agreed that it may be she. She has lived gloriously, and gloriously will she die. I can pic ture her turning upon death the same shining face she has ever turn ed upon life. I can imagine that she will say to him exultantly: "I am not afraid. I shall be remembered here and I shall progress over there. Quand meme!" She will have lived gloriously if only because she has taught us to fling our battle cry at the forces that oppose our reaching what is worth whil in life; if only because she has taught us to cry at the right time and place: "Quand meme!" 0 f Pitfalls of a Woman's Married Life. Ily a Woman Who Avoided Them. You havo something which has never been in your life before, dear young brides the love of a good husband, and half of you don't know what to do with it. It is quite different from any other love In the world. You have been accustomed to your mother's tender considerate love, or your sister's merry "hail-fellow-well-met" affection, or your brother's boisterous enthusiasm or your best friend's adoration. They are all different from the husband's love, ami yet the good husband binds tenderness, consideration, adoration and fun into the feeling with which he regards the little woman who welcomes him on the doorstep and sits at the head of his table. I can hear some of the women, who have been married some time, laugh over the above remark. "My husband cares for me like my mother, or joke with me like my brothers and sisters, or love me like that dear girl-pal? Oh. I only wish he did!" Hut he did. and it is entirely your own fault that he does not now. Scold me as much as you like for the above charges. Declare that they are not true, that all husbands are the same. Tt makes no differ ence. I stick to my opinion still. The saddest mistake a young mar ried woman can make is always to be bickering with her husband. At first it starts as a sort of joke, and gradually It grows into a habit. I expect to stay in houses where the husband and wife are contin ually quarreling. The wife always has a grievancet and the worst of it is that f-he starts being offended at breakfast. Now, do you think any self-respecting man can be bothered with a disagreeable woman at breakfast? Remember he has lived at home with a kincl mother to pour out his coffee, or perhaps in rooms where his newspaper ha kf't him com pany, and newspapers can't be cross, thank goodness! There are some wojnen who would quarrel with a hard-boiled egg. They hardly have stuck the hair pins in their hair before they long to disagree with their hairbrush, and the consequence is that the unfor p ö o 0 tunate husband is made the butt of all their ill-humor. A woman who is always quarrel ing with her husband is the saddest creature in the world. If. God takes him from her she drapes herself in widow's weeds an i cries her eyes out Do try to be nice to him while he is alive and can apprei"Vte it. Do you know what the maddest mistake is? To be jealous of your husband. If you had said to him. "What a nice little woman Mrs. Robertson is. Does she dnnce well?" He would have replied: "So-so, darling, but not a patch on you." I have heard many young wives say, "I wish my husband were as nice to me as he was to his sister." Do you know why he was no nie to his sister? Because she never bothered him. never pot cross with him because he spoke pleasantly to another girl never flew Into foolish rages over nothing at all. I have kept the biggest mistake of all to tho end. and yet, whea you come to look at It, it does not seem so gigantic; but .believe me. it is the cause of half the misery in married life. The biggest mistake Is to live in your husband's pocket. who talk a great deal about the sacredness of existence, how all per- Aro You Still Plodding Along Without A Pitner Gas Ironer 2.500 Homo Have It Here. ikons i iiorits rem l n:T. Delivered on Trial at 2,"e Ter Week For I"ree demonstration Telephone Hell 17"8. riTXEK oi nn- .t2I W. iAsallo Avenue. A Gillis made Garment Iii s I 240 Farmers Trust Bldg. Exclusive Ladies' There's Bad Weather Ahead The worst of the winter is yet to come. Don't be fooled by a few nice days and think you can soon han the washing out of doors. Avoid that discomfort and physical danger by the sure plan. We take FAMILY WASHING AT 6c A POUND ROUGH DRY. Most of it will be ironed before returned. SLICICS LAUNDRY AND DRY CLEANING CO. Bell 117. 126 S. sons must walk their on rad ;i their own life, be;ir their own tre bles, and yet tloe girls are th" frst to think that wife and father o: -fessor are synonymous terms. My dNr child. If your h :-iu i goes out to buy a clcaret. h dr--n't want you to ask where h"'s been t . He ll tell you If you den't . hin. He'll be deaf and dumb n I vc-rv worrying If you d". There are so mar.v girls w:, i mako the biggest :r..sakv. IV orb--inal. and don't. xv 4 m. m m m r It has alwavs been the altitude of our ambition to launder work for po lite people in a manner that wins their respect. Give us an opportunity to demonstrate our abil ity and we will ive you reasons to be thankful. Ideal Laundry and Dry Clean ing Company 426 S. Michigan St. Bell 285. Home 5209. 0 -' l".1;';,v XJ Designed and made by Gillis, the master ladies' tailor, assures you of finest quality and expert work manship combined with the satisfaction of knowing that the garment is made to your liking and designed to suit your figure. Tailoring Shop. n MAIN ST. Home 5117 4 2 k i l I