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Sl'NMY, APItIL 21. 101.
D Devoted to Women and Their Interests THE SOUTH BEND NEWS-TIMES f AH zxc .j. - M Ii, - ÖPOI 112 REVELA TIONS OF A WIFE by Adele is jack ciiam;i;i? The waitrr stood at attention with pm:il pointed over his order ci.nl. Jack was f.tudylnK the menu card, and I was s t u 1 i rt Jack. It was tli e hrst 'hanc- I had hid to tak a sood h ok at this cousin brother of mine after his year's ab sence. Mvery tun' I had att'mptl it I had met his eyes fixed upor. me with an inscrutable look that puz zled and embarrassed me. Now, however, he was occupied with the menu card, and I stared openly at him. He had changed very little, I told myself. Of course, he. was terribly browned by his year in the' cropics, but otherwise he was the .sime hand-some, well-set-up chap I re-' inenibered kj well. lie looked up, caught my gaze, and into his M".e eyes Hashed the old merry teasing look that I knew. "Giving rne the once over?" he asked in a low tone, mindful of the waiter; then in his ordinary voice, "Made up your mind yet what you want?" "Oh. won't you order, please Jak?" I asked. "Can't be dor.e." he returned merrily. "This is your party. My only part is to show that I remem ber your favorites. Of course, you want some escarotv." We both smiled at the recollec tion the name tailed up. In the days when a dinner with Jack was the one recreation my plodding life afforded me, he had once per suaded me to eat some escargots. When they were served, and I dis covered they were snails, I had or dered them taken away at once, the very idea of them upsetting mo Iiter. to please Jack, who was very fond of them. I had tried one. then another, and after a number of dinners had become t?s great a lover of thr-m as he was. "oh! surely" I said. "Of course, cscargots." The waiter heard me. and bent deferentially toward nie. "It is to, bad," he said in care ful Knclish. "but it is impossible for us to et the escargots on ac t ount of the war." "That's too had," said Jack. "I suppose there will be a number of ur faorites we can't have. I can't icalize et there is a war. You see, 1 didn't hear of it until a few weeks at,'i when we lirst pot out of the wildern ss." The waiter w.ix"l confidential. ' You'd know it if you were here, tv." he said respectfully. "Almost all our ;.o;; hae gone back to light for France. I wish I were only yountc enough to ro." We looked around the restaurant iind continued his word. The wait- rs were .ill men over middle age, not a young man among them. I gave a little shiver at th thought of what it all meant. Jack saw it. mi:mouii:s and iangi:u. "We'll not talk of it any more." he said. "How would you like oys ters instead of esc argots'.'-' "Those will be very nice." I smiled at him. In reality 1 was far from hungry. Hut I would not spoil Jack's pleasure by telling him so. "What next, consomme, or isn't it here you used to vet that thicken broth you liked so well "How well you remember. Jack." 1 exclaimed in astonishment. "It you think I eoubl forget'.' he asked quickly. Something i:i his lone gave me that vague uucumfor- j table fear again. j "The chicken broth let i rryj goid, I said hastily. .-t i.s h.iv tome." "All right. I know !ish. So what shall ou don't like be the raiul I knew Jack's favorite dish, for-! Innately. If he couM Mt down ini ..f .it thrv rw.,t I i,l t .,..,? i i 'Hi v i ; u i iin i iil r 1 1 1 i i 1 1 r n ( . thick. jui-y, broiled just riht, he was happy. "A steak. by all means." T an-?-wend. "I haent had a good one in ages." 'I'm sure you're saying that to please me." Jack protested, "but I haven't the heart to say no. You an imagine the food I've Iied on ir, South America. Hut ou must i-rder the rest of the meal." "Surely 1 will." I said, for I knew ;he things, he liked. "Haked pota toes, new asparagus, huttetod beets, icmaine salad, and we'll talk about the dessert laier. The waiter bowed and hurried iway. "You're either clairvoyant. .Margaret or ' i "perhaps I. too. have a memory." I returned gayly, and then regret- ted the speech as I siu the look that leaped into Jack's eyes. j "I wish i was sure. no Deg.m i ti r..' 1 1 ' n ? vl v then Ii. )if iliH )iiti- I tarly for any music." h- finished! lamely. "I am afraid so." I said. "It docs.Vt matter anyway. We want to talk, r.ot to Jiten. I've got somtthing to tell you my dear, that: I've beMi thinking aLo-:t all this' vear I've been gone." "(;ivj; mi; timiv I did r.ot realize the impuN.. that made me t-tretch out my hind, lay! it upon his. and a-k gently: j "Please. Jack, don't tell me any-j thing important until aft, r dinner.' I f.-el rather upset anjway. Let's ( have one of o ir old carefree din-! neri. and can Ulk." when we v e, finished we Garrison Jack pave me a Ion curious look under which I Hushed hot. Then he Faid brusquely, "All right, the weather and the price of Hour, thos are good safe subjocts, we'll stkk to them." The omnibus had spread the tablo with a clean cloth and the silver. He had also placed pats of butter and a silver dish of crusty French bread. "Now I know something is the matter," Jack said mischievously. I never ate with you that you didn't grab a piece of that bread as soon as the boy brought it, and eat it luxuriously while you were waiting for the rest of the meal." "Well, you see, I'm so overwhelm ed at your return, I can't come down to sordid things." I tried to make my voice gay. "You must give me time." "I've been doing just that for year." he returned cryptically. I was glad that the arrival of the oysters made a reply of mine un necessary. The dinner was perfect in every detail . Jack ate heartily, and al though I was too unstrung to eat much I managed to get enough down to deceive him into thinking I was enjoying the meal also. While we were discussing the salad, Jack summoned the waiter. "Will you have an ice or some pastry before the cheese?" he ask- I0'1 me- n. no. "nothing but Jack!" I answered, a bit of cheese." "Camembert? Or I suppose the war has banished that also." The waiter bent apologetically. "Oh. yes, we have no Camembert. We will be able to offer you Roque fort." "I would just as soon have those little American cream cheese with the black coffee." The coffee and cheese dispatched, I leaned back and smiled at Jack. "Now light your cigar," I command ed. "Xot yet. We're going: to talk a bit first, you and I." I felt that same little absurd thrill of apprehension. Jack was changed in some way. I could not tell just now. HOW JACK MADE IT XECES. SAltY IXm MADC.i: TO BKKAK TIIH MAYS lil.UNTIA'. "Look at me, Margaret." Jack's voice was low and tense. It held a masterful note I had never heard. Without realizing that I did so, I obeyed him, and lifted my eyes to his. What I read in them made me tremble. This was a new Jack fac ing me across the table. The cousin-brother, my best friend since my childhood. was gone. I did not know this man who reached out his hand and covered mine as it lay on the table before me. I did not admit to myself why, but I wished, oh! so earnestly, that I had told Jack over the telephone of my marriage during his year's absence in the s?outh American wil derness, where he could neither send nor receie letters. No brother could have been kind er or nearer to me during all my life than this distant cousin of mine had been. I had felt guilty at hav- i,iur marri0(1 during his absence without his knowing about it. So I had waited to tell him of my marriage until we should have fin ished the dinner to which Jack had asked me on the first day he re turned from his exile. I must not wait another minute,! I 1 told myself. "Jack." I said brokenly, "there 'is something I want to tell you I I'm afraid you will be angry, but vWdi don't be. big brother, will - u" t!A( K !!.( li.Mll.S ins i.ovi:. j "There is something I'm going to 'tell you first." Jack smiled tenderlv at me. "and that is that this big brother stuff is done for, .as '.ar as I'm concerned. In fact. I've? been iust faking the role for two cr three years back. because I kiiew you didn't care the way I wanted you to. Hut this year out in the wilderness has made me realize jest what life would be to me without you. I've been kicking myself all over South America that I didn't try to make you care. I've just about gone through Gehenna, too. thinking I you might fall in love with some j body while I was gone. Hut I saw j you didn't wear anybody's ring 'anyway, so I said to myself. Tm r.ot going to wait another minute to I t 11 her I love her, love her, love ! her.' " Jack's o:ce. pitched to a low key inyway. so that no or.e should be to hear what he was saying. sink almost to a whisper with the iat words. I sat stunned. he 1 pie: grief st ritken. To think that I should be the one to bring sorrow to Jack, the ge nt lest known ! kindest friend I had ever' IMMTTV rCFS Do not always attract but the well--lu ,,rson i.eor lails lo at tract. Mri. L. K. Place and her staff at the Royal Heauty Tarlors In the Farmers Trust building are experts In the cire of your hands. naiua, skin, scalp and hair. They sure can make you look and feel like the real thin Phones, Home 6360, lieu ASYL 1121. A Summer if. y No Hampering Modes Since the creators of style are cooperating with the government and advising us to use less wool, spring costumes show much orig inality and ingenuity. Makers of women's clothes have agreed to use not more than 4 1-2 yards of wool en material in any suit or frock; when possible, not more than three yards will be required, and it is, of course, advisable to eliminate wool altogether and wear suits of satin, j?rsey, silk or similar fabrics. In America, women have been accus tomed to wear such materials only in summer, or in frocks beneath heavy coats, but the satin suit may jet become popular for early spring use. Jersey has made its bow in a new form this spring, artificial silk being used instead of pure silk or wool. This new jersey should be very satisfactory, since it is some what heavier tnan the older mate rials of this type. A suit need not be wholly of wool, of course; very interesting combina tions are made of serge, tricotine or gabardine, with satin or silk. The tunic skirt lends itself particularly well to such combination., since the tunic can be of the heavier material and the underskirt of satin or silk. A suit, made with such a skirt, may have a vest of the satin. or may have collar and cuffs of the lighter v.'cight material which is used in the skirt. Materials of the same weight are frequently used together, a plaid ed or checked material being made with a plain fabric harmonizing in coloring. Plaids are ery fashion able this spring, the darker colors being most favored. Tans. Krays, browns, especially the ever popular tete de negre, and all shades of blue, are shown in the various woolen materials. Little Chohi in lanes. Colorings and materials chosen, the maid who would a-shopping go vmII fmd that she has but little choice in the matter of the lines of her new costume. The silhouette must be straight and Hat. no matter how it is achieved. Although the new skirts are narrow, they are so made that there is no restriction of movement, for the woman of today is too much occupied with her own duties and war relief work to be bothered by hampering modes. The sf.ort jacket, fashioned on Fton or bolero lines, is to be popular, al- ! though the woman who prefers a I longer coat will find that she has not been, forgotten. One suit, which I somehow managed to come within 1 the regulations regarding the ue of I wool, has a plaited coat which came j to the finger tips; perhaps the nec- i essary material was o! tatned t y making the skirt particularly nar row. These suits, which are made wholly of wool, should be of cheviot or homespun, since such fabrics are Morning Doesn't this look like a summer morning? Cool dimity, checked in coral and white. 1 collared and ruf fled with crisp organdy. The vest fastens with tiny buttons ending under a coral tie to match the gir dle. Coral links fasten the femin ine cuffs. Three tucks are machine hemstitched with white and outlined with organdy ruflles, picot edged. This frock may be made of voile, gingham, chiffon cloth or crepe de chine, in plain or fancy weave. Or gandy in touches like this is used on almost any fabric from serge to tilk. for Women of Today less easy to combine with other ma terials than are serges or tricotines. The popularity enjoyed during the winter by separate dresses and coats has: not waned, and the new spring coats are decidedly smart in ap pearance. Tweeds, cheviot, jercey, duvetyn, all are used for them, and they emulate the frequently men tioned silver-lined cloud by possess ing linings which may well be shown to the world occasionally. Nothing could be smarter than a plain col ored coat lined with checked mate rial, and linings of plain colored silk with effectively placed bands of a contrasting color are equally inter esting. Both coats and dresses seek to be taken for each other this spring; the. coats, by being trimly belted and collared as coat dresses have been for so long, the dresses, by acquiring trimly tailored bodices and narrow sleeves. For house wear, foulard has made its custo mary spring appearance, blue pre dominating as usual. Taffeta is chosen for many an attractive frock, the fabric lending . a somewhat "dressed-up" air which may be counteracted by severity of line. One-sided draperies and fastenings are much in vogue just at present, and an occasional bustle drapery bears witness to the lingering fond ness for that style. Several years ago. someone made an attractive satin traveling dress most simply, by cutting the frock so that it would slip on over the head and drawing in the fullness at the waist by means of an elastic band. This same general design has been followed, in a few instances, this spring; and. since a dress no made is both comfortable and practical, the style deserves to be followed. The elastic band is placed under the belt, and elastic also holds the full ness at the neck. Frills of some thin white material are basted in at fneck and wrists, and one has a charming dress which was most easily made. Skirts and Illoux. Separate skirts, especially those of satin or taffeta, are effective when worn with the dainty hand-made blouses that are being shown in such variety; and the woman who has a last season's kilk or satin dress, which she wishes to remodel, will find it possible to make a 'fashion able separate skirt from the material on hand. As for the bKiuses, they are here in great variety. Georgette, batiste, handkerchief linen and sim ilar materials are used for the frill ed or much-tucked blouses; the beautifully colored crepes which are shown for summer frocks make ex quisite blouses when used with white collars and cuffs, and some of Kodier'. fabrics are most effective when thus used. One. of pale blue and white checks marked off with machine hemstitching, is unusually Made in America When the makers of ready-to-wear garments are endeavoring to establish American styles for Amer ican women, it is interesting to note that, for some time, many of the better known modistes have been working with this in mind, and that In Chicago, especially, the-movement has advanced notably. "For sorne time, it has been di ficult to obtain Paris models and designs," explained a Chicago de signer recently, "Formerly, we re ceived frocks or fashion books upon which we could rely, aJid from these we adapted designs, if, indeed, we did not duplicate a dress or suit Just as it was. Our fashions were almost wholly determined by what Paris sent out. But, with the be ginning of the war there was a rad ical change. For a time, we receiv ed nothing, then models began to come to us; bub quite naturally, there was little that was ncw, for the French designers had other more important things than clothes to think about. We receive" books and models now, but, if we can take from them just a suggestion for a new sleeve or collar or perhaps for a clever skirt drapery we thing we are fortunate. "Consequently, we have been forc ed to develop modes xf our own. A woman's personal appearance and preferences are more important than a dressmaker's arbitrary decree; and while the general style is not greatly influenced by the present tendency, the details of a frock are nowadays apt to be typical of the woman who is to wear it, rather than the representative of a set de sign. This has been a growing in clination for some time, and the dearth of ne' designs from Paris has merely hastened its growth." ' An indication of this tendency in dress is seen in the decreasing popularity of hand-woven asseccor ies. A collar and belt of hand-woven silk or linen, dyed to match a linen or serge frock, gives it a touch that cannot be duplicated. And, this year, we must depend on such touches for novelty, according: to a Chicago . designer, if we are to have it at all. for th new fabrics are scarce and there is small pros pect of new ones being made. "We are looking for new designs rather than to new fabrics now," said this designer, "and Chicago dressmakers are encouraged to cre ate new and original designs' by an association which we have here, call ed the Fashion Art league. It is an outgrowth of our Dressmakers' club and, at the semi-annual exhib itions which we have only original designs are shown. In the past, this has led to the development of some interesting, styles and we ex Dect that, because of the absence of French designs, those who exhibit will have a stronger incentive than before to create destinctively Amer ican clothes. "The Chicago woman is apt to be conservative; she does not wear clothes that are notoceably different from those which everyone is wear ing unless she feels sure that. In wearing them, she will not seem eccentric. She is dependent on oth ers, in a way. That is one reason why it has taken so long for us to develop even a tendency toward the wearing of American deigned clothes; women have looked to Paris for so long for its stamp of approv al on what to wear, that they hesi tate about proceeding without it. Some of them accuse us of trying to nerpertrate some sort of dress re form; whereas we are only doing what we should have done long ago standing on our own feet to the best of our ability. We could never hope to design as the Parisian designers did, unless we made some attempt to do so." uestioned as to- the probability of the women throughout America eeepting the styles created, she hesitaed. "It wili take time, even after one has accepted them," she said at last. "For example, the women of different cities dress differently now; people say that one is 'ahead' attractive blouse material, and an other of pale yellow with a hint of lavender is almost as good. Inter esting combinations are ma.de of white and colored materials, a yoke of one being hemstitched to a blouse of the other. Much can be done with hemstitching, small pieces of georgette frequently being combined in this way. The hand-made blouse has never been more popular nor more be- f rilled, although it may'follow the exam-de of a blouse of pale blue batiste and boast a severely high collar and a front whose only trim ming was hand-sewn pin tucks. The more strictly tailored blouses are usually of linen, and these also show combinations of two colore. Crepe de chine is also used for these waists, and Mouses of dark taffeta are worn with tailored skirts. A hat, which is chosen now with a summer's wear in mind, mav well be of one of the new rough braids combined with silk; such combina tons are effective and wear well. Feather trimmings are to be fash ionable, burnt ostrich being among the most popular. Many cf the wings are artificial ones, so on; may choose these in preference to the others. Flowers are highly conven tionalized, and oddly colored fruits will bring , delightful color schemes Into being, on more than one fash ionable hat this spring. A Nifty Top Coat " jiiill i:::..j::::::m p::::;:;qi::::::q: ti:-.zii:t---.: e:::::::ä:::JJ Summer travels, whether over land by train or up hill and down dale by motor, require a top coat. The model illustrated is adapted from a coat sent over from London for an American war worker. Hers was made of khaki, but if a woman does not officially wear the army color, it is bad taste and bad pa triotism to take the material so necessary for cur men, and idly wear it when something else would do. Black and white, invisibly or obviously checked, is always smart for a top coat, thougb soft tan or a heather mixture makes the best choice. This model may be worn as illustrated or buttoned tightly around the throat. The cuffs carry a strap for fastt ning the wrists. of another in wearing the new styles whereas that goes back to the na tural conservation of many women. They want to be quite centain that a new style will really last through out the season, and not become o common that its value is lost before it is many months old. In some of the more eastern cities, rather dif ferent styles than those most worn here are the generally accepted ones ancfXso it would seem doubtful whe ther we can say that the vogue of American-made styles will sweep the country instantly. But I do feel that women will realize that now, when Paris has; no time for new styles, they can still get things that are new by looking to their Amer con dressmekers for them. I believe that, in this way, they will learn to apprecite American fashions." IX") SAVi: GAS IN" COOKING. Have the article ready and on the burner before the pas is lighted, laght the match, turn gas cock on full and spply natch. If lighted slowly, and gas pops or gives a yellow and blue noisy flame, it means imperfect combustion. The gas should bo quickly turned out and properly relighted to give a blue flame. As soon as the liquid begins to boil, turn the gas down until there is just enough heat to keep it boil ing. Use the simmering jet whenever possihle. It supplies sufficient heat to keep a larse ettle of water boil ing. In most bakin turn out one oven burner or lower both after the first 15 minutes. A small oven set on top of the stove over one burner, for baking small quantities, will reduce the gas bill. Tin: avomkx or fraxcl. Are not neclettlnir their personal aprearance while doing war work. Their carefully marcelled hair has been particularly commented on. You can look as vell at your ardu ous war duties as they, by making an appointment at the Comfort Shop fcr your marce: wave at as early an hour as you desire, 503 J. M. I3ldg. Advt. rni: iv)st or srxsinxi: In the home and office is but a trine when you consider that hap piness and good will may easily be promoted by the gift cf an occa Fional box or bouquet of cut flowers. Try It once a week and watch the effect. Williams & Co.. Florists, 138 S. Michigan st. Home phone 2227, Cell rhone S3. Advt. WELCOME NOVELTIES IN BAG Even in these days of bags and mor e bags, to see one suddenly burst into bloom is still a novelty. It was a glorious dash of color, against a plain, dark gown, and it held the eyes as a patch of scarlet poppies in a field of wiVat. Grad ually the glow resolved itself into forms of little flowers of many col ors, forming the lower half of just a plain, oval-shaped black velvet bag. It was certainly a smart ac cessory of costume, and its daring color fairly impelled one to know it better. The flowers were of crocheted wool, scarlet, orange, vivid preen, bright purple, while an occasional tan or gray blossom only tended to make the bright flowers gayer. Fach was a little larger in diameter than a quarter of a dollar, with four petals, sewed flat to the. velvet, hav ing a stamen of contrasting color, a crocheted string: of the wool dou bled over. As a tassel at the end. a bunch of bell-shaped flowers, with petals and stamens, hung loosely down. A narrow frill of bright green silk separated the plain vel vet from the lower half, on which the flowers were set, a solid mass of color, so that, when put down, it looked much like an old-fashioned nosegay in a stiff ruff. It was a most attractive bag, the original having come from "somewhere in France." Anybody could copy it. It was learned that one young wom an had done so, copying it again and again, with a variety of color schemes. Some glowed with the rich beauty of an oriental rug, in dark crim son, olive greens, rose, and deep blues. Others were in lighter tones of rose, a brighter blue, solter green, light tan and paJe violet, with stamens of darker coloring. One popular bag had its flowers of vary ing shades of violet only, with stamens of crimson, to add a dash of color, while another of violet had stamens of green. One bag was made with" a frill of rare old lace, in place of the green silk, in order to resemble more than ever the old fashioned nosegay. All the bags were lined with the green silk. Odd bits of knitting wool, dyed if necessary, come in conveniently for these decorations, and the wool Mowers made quite as charming trimming for black velvet hats and for the light straws of summer. TAnr.r: fdins of every kind large and mall In size. Splendid in shape; can be se lected at Williams & Co.. Florists. Always the bet In flowers for the table decorations; flowers for the sick, etoek bouquets, corsage, and flowers for the "only girl" are here In splendid assortment. loS South Michigan Street. Home phone 2227 Bell phone 769. Advt Vrv:V i' ' . . ". .; ; i y fa y " yonair mmi will appreciate the gladness and pleasure that a Bruns wick from Smith & Wherrett will bring them. Imagine the satisfaction of having the World's Greatest Artists entertaining you in your comfortable home for Music always brings happiness. Decide today to have your Brunswick. Make us prove to you that the "Brunswick" plays all records and plays them better. $32.50 to $350.00 Easy Payments. SMITH & WHERRETT 326-328 South Michigan St. PRITTTV HAN DKI IK IUI I' I " I I '. So often whtü :: ::i a h:;:: to fmi.-h off a li 1 1. ik r h.- f f-r : gift, it i r.ot a iv isy ::: Utter to rem-ml"T a ny ed that w;!l g. quickly and look ;.; tt as well. H i is an Armenian edge th it S simp' in design and w ill l.o l;';e ri ; r. g It is -:y jretty W''ik1 in i !! with very f.r.e ihr i !. Work right into th lin. n f .f hem, beginning with a 'h.t;n f -iv (the first thr't b.tir.s will s-rve ; a trip'el after th.- tiiM id !i i" le.-n fastened t the linen. Tarn and take a. d. . in !.r;U eh iin from the hook. t. c. in n t. d. r. in r.ct and a t. c. in linen. (Main tin" ;ip, jr I eat from the turn. Another picot ede which g-'e quickly can also be worked up ef fectively with a colored "Hon. Slip stitch into linen, cha in f- :r. du;blo crochet into first eh tin, tdip stitch into linen again. Ilepeat around tit" oi'n' e . of the linen. This is ono of th'o handy edges which it is well to memorize fr any rnrooN ry. c3&.A For Particular People Those who want every thing of the best will lind HALLMARK Lawn ex actly suited to their sta tionery requirements. HALLMARK Lawn is mannt act ured exclusively tor sale in the HALL MARK Store. Frank Mayr & Sons JEWELERS Estab. 1873. The HALLMARK Store. ,:,M : i ! ! My of! iy