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rnmpAY r.vnxiNG. rnmuAK v i;, 1321.
1 THE SOUTH BEND NIWS-TIMES f J CS r H z?5 i loi JF : , , w---wwv. A A Av Fascinating New Creations from Hats to it - "v :v-'- r ' . J IF v' -v--..--- ; . - ..t Shoes i to Make the Modern "Heart-Breakers" More Charming Than Ever. m - raw t - 12 w ri 1 1 r h 'v - . j aj am uLji u ui.vi-u ir 'wily 1 '; v;-lf'"' T- Viv -y-:- Jk -. VtA,r -.v Qesisnec mv..--:.--- V i t "1 1 uu 1 ft r:-,-'.; v U V . . , . ",. . f K"' V-i1 : K ,-, y A-- . A . ;,:Xal A. -AA-. - . This Is the New "Vamp" Coiffure. The Hair Is Coiled Around the Head Above 1 Broad Band of Brilliants. whicn doesn't mean grob of iticky red covered with a thawing: snow powder. "They could reform the clothes and the com plexions of their srirl employes over night if they took united action. I predict they will do just that before this season is over, unless tho law of selection operates naturally to crowd out the ex treme dressers. "Women want to be the equals of men In busi ness, but they never can be until they dress th part," she continued. "They don't have to dres mannishly; on tho contrary, they should retain womanliness, but they must dress sensibly. "The current style in skirts and blouses is not only unpractical, but it is downright inartistic. Not one girl in ten has the kind of feet and legs that look well in the extremes of display. Not one in a hundred has the constitution to wear such filmsy things in winter. The display they make is merely cheap and vulvar. "Jazz" is the Name Applied to the Newest Thing in Gloves. These Are Really Lace Mittens Like Grandmother Used to Wear. PHOTO f g7 KACCL. 8 ffA0ST i The Translucent Tea Gown Has a Broad Border of Fur at Neck and the Sleeves and Waist Are Prettily Decorated with Flower Designs. Bv Barbara Cravdon IT Is only logical, sfter all, that clothing has at last been designed for the sole use of "vamps." The most surprising thing about it is that rcme thought wasn't given this particular kind of i parel lonjr ago. The debutante has many de cigns from which to choo?e, the bride even more .ir.d the widow is permitted all the ranpe of the designer's fancy as long as she sticks to the som bre hue. Hut the "vamp" has nothing that she can call her own. In fact, it has been charged that that is just what makes her what she is. iiut, as she has apparently made her debut and is here to stay, it is only righi and proper that ap parel right and proper should be fashioned for her. The "vamp" always had a place in human af fairs. Even before Cleopatra the role was an old one. The Queen of Sheba showed vnmplsh traits toward Solomon. If not, why did she send him t ich flattering gifts? Only, the word vamp had not then been coined. Sometimes they called them f'.rcns. Wheu the master .of the castle remained rut all night and, mayhap, all year, his deserted lady would blame it all on a shapely little sprite vhich dwelt in the pool of a fountain or amid Ihe ulippcry cra;5 of treacherous reef. "Vamp" is a 20:h century vrd. More, it is a movie word. It was coined for such is Theda Bara.- Al?o, it coinage has had a psychd lical ctfect. It has soothed injured feelings and applied a ba'.m to outraged nerves, not unlike the -tlect , of irlhir.g syrup on baby when li'd toothing. It used to b that "the other woman" caused heartache cr.d sorrow nr. even more serious com- !-? ..-' rT sanri'.narv na- Uut i:ico t!:at word "vrmp" to ram c r colloquial. i?vi th vic:im of tlu- triangle, ::.vi:.;T riveted her alimony, lii:a:T:vly explain- to her fr.or.d that So -and -So "vnnipcfi away" her husband. va th.3 de?'?rt?d huibands .iro cvir.cir.s: a like tendency A Ice'.: lightly upon the tlirta- t ;:.:n of their wives. Wit r..:? ths ca;e of A. M. Uotj f:rd, New York actor, who not only gave hi wifj to his IrI?r.J, Itaoul Fleischmann, tut Actually stood best man ti-ir wedding. Posed especially for this page were the new fashions for "vamps' only. The most striking of the photographs, most will probably agree, is the translucent tea gown. From the waist down this is the most daring garment that, perhaps, has ever been fashioned. The picture shnvs how diaphanous it is, plainly revealing the wearer's stockings even beyond the point where most stock ings end. It seems to have been modeled with the idea of exaggerating certain features of it through contrast. Compare its translucence with the fur trimming about the neck. The grreat flowers decorating the waist and sleeves add to iU charm. photograph just above the toes and It held by the cross straps. Going further, we come to the knee watch, worn just below the knee, one of the most popular timepieces ever adopted, Every time the fair wearer consults it a huge throng of men becomo curious as to the time and crowd about to see if their judgment of what o'clock it is may be veri fied by the accurate chronometer of the pretty girl. In Paris, a one-piece knitted overall is all the rage, quite diaphanous, one might safely venture. But it is about the most cc.nfortable article of apparel .probably ever designed and more than vamps are interested in its success. Hundreds advocate that it be made universal style. The teAjama, differing from the pajama in costliness and the time of its appearance, is also solidly ensconced in Parisian high society. Ladies there entertain in such habiliment and make a hit The "vamps" ar going to every extreme to make their garö effective. According to one au- Censors for the Vamps "The fault Is not with the movies or with the mothers," Mrs. Tupper added, "but with the well-to-do women who set the examples in styles. Clothes high up the social and financial scale are Immodest enough, especially in the matter of evening dress, but when those styles have de scended a little way they become more 60," she thinks. "Most girls are thoroughly goal girls," Mrs. Tupper said, "but, consciously or unconsciously, they are guilty cf sex appeal. It hurts them, in the lack of respect felt for them by men who normally would be friendly and courteous." Out at Zion, 111., "vamp" costumes with low. cut necks have become so popular, or should we Bay flagrant, that censors, armed with shawls, are going about covering up the offensive attire. As one newspaper dispatch reported it: "Two censors, armed with a dozen woolen shawls, were appointed by Wilbur Glenn Voliva, overseer of Zion, to enforce an order against th AA;A--: A5A? A A:S ? A':'i ;r;A?y f'.--v,.-i - ,f.'v-.; V;V4f, J7A-V ;r 'A j -.2 y:. Ar-.?,.. -- -.s.zi ' r.--' - , . ' ' :' t l'-'; '"if " v4',t .',,71 yr-.:. -V Vr--A -'Ai -..v"- mmmmmmm &3 fC',rt --i ;:V a? .-.lit- ,i n V s?S -r ' - - Uwv: y ) ' A.v. hitmM ?A. -,A:.; ., . - v" V :nwV ;1 aa; A;- - ': --a.;':?'':v "'V.J. Nvi'V'5-'.- : .''Wff Jv-',f,i 1 .V''. -.. in ' 1 W (. 1 ; '- . . V , ',....'. ,S .A AAA. . A-. - AAAAA :. I : . - :. ; :: ', A-:." &' Va;: A'..;A . ili, v.,- v : ? A w A r.:.r;'i-.'j n ;;A VAVA . . A . fc i'AlV- Ka.A'": '- vv. ':A ; ' l-iivC' f ?-Va;; A-.C -f-;- ' 'A The New Is Big: and Plentifully Plumed. x.'A: -A--. t-r s : .'-7;. ".."5- ..A wA.-v. : za C -; A', ' ' - 1- - 4 A-A . A- l.A.-:A'VA A A''V A,- I- - v -:'W-fr,.;-:.r- .c. va a - -;.A : ' run i r i i . n f. i. mm i- m 1 - . k. ..4 The Harem Veil, Reversed, Is One 9f the Newest Accessories of the Vamp. The new "vamp" hat Is large and dashingly plumed, the angle at which its brim shades th face giving to it a look that could not be anything but flirtatious. Yet it is strikingly beautiful and adds dignity to its compelling appearance. Even "vamp" gloves have been designed, long, open-work lace creations which, after all, are nothing but the kind that grandma used to wear. However, as we said before, there were vamps in grandma's time. Who knows but what this very style of glove played its part in the wrecking of some happy home years and years ago? Cleopatra the First Vamp As if red lips and a saucy smile are the most effective of the "vamps" heavy guns and alone are able to achieve desired conquest, comes Dame Fashion with the harem veil, reversed. Instead of showing the eye3 and part of the nose, as the harem veil does, this veil displays just the lower part of the face, nose, lips and chin. There is a touch of the apparel of Cleopatra, that arch "vamp," in the coiffure for the modem heart-breaker. The hair is coiled about the head in heavy, serpentino twists and just below it, en circling the forehead, is a diadem of brilliants matching the sparkle in the eyes. "Flirt" shoes of oriental cloth, leautifully decorated, complete the toggery of the present day "vamp." Thus she has shcc3 and dress and gloves and hat and veil and coiffure. So, fully equipped, she is ready to sally forth, to do what damage she can to hearts and homes. But there are all sorts of vampish embellisb ments which have not been included on this page, improvisations of clever feminine minds intent on besting a rival or melting an adamantine heart. Hand-painted spats is one of the noveltie3, but more effective from the vantping standpoint is the style now in efTect in Vienna, Austria, where women wear the; portraits of the man they are vamping on their slippers. They insert hi3 Xw!nti.r I raturf rrlc. 1321. AAA; ;.A;A A WA'AA: A'A f,:r A ' A' t . -b "'. - .., -.,.--A . -V . V.-a..: - - tA - . . . ' . .'. . !A A-- V,f -.: : . '. . . . . a - -. v A a:. u ..v-vi - . '- L- -A - . - - .r ! :: r :-. 'ii A;.. ' & 1 k?i:& ?-A V. : thority'they are shaving their ankles so that there may not be anything unsightly about tho gossamer stockings that are now so popular. The question of the new styles for "vamps" has met with some warm criticism by guardians of morals. One critic is Mrs. Adele B. Tupper, professor in the Boston University School of Sec retarial Science. She is quite indignant over the "vamp" attire of some 'of the young girls of tha: my. She says: "Girls in Boston are as guiltv. if r. more :, as the girls of any other con:r " ' : '.- a. -ju:.-try when it comes to bad tas .-. th..-. down in State street or Sumirt- itrret or any other business locality at the lunch hour and see the forest of legs and the landscape of bare chests. Men may Lke to look at such displays, but they don't want their business hours haunted by them. They aren't getting anv dividends on anatomy unlimited. "It is the extreme style that offends. I believe in silk stockings; if'a girlcan afford them.'and in good -clothes always, even at the sacrifice cf some other, necessity. But good clothes are never ex treme clothes. I even believe in rouge for pal women, if it is used discreetly and artistically Every Shoe Needs a Vamp, Just as Every Vamp Needs Shoes. These Are of Oriental Cioth and Arc Called "Flirt" Shoe wearing of low-neck dresses In tho Zion Taber nacle. "The censors, Mrs. W. H. C'.cndinen, wife of the mayor, and Mrs. T. C. Pihl, are to place a shawl aroiind any woman who violates Uie crdcr, conduct her from the Tabernacle nd eurrcnJer her to a waiting policeman. "A sign ha3 been posted across the front of the Tabc-r::acle warning Zion women against wearing dre?ses without collars, skirts more r;aa three inches above the ar.k'e, open-work stock ings, 'X-ray' sleeves or transparent blouse:' It isn't many weeks snco a d 'U-m.ü.c i :fort was made to establish an cfficial d?ad line be yond which the so-called "vamp fashions" wera not to recede. Needless to say it failed. Howard Figg, assistant to the United State attorney general at Washington, I). C, wtu; appealed to by representatives of th Nat;:nnl Garment Jlctail crs' Association, who asked him for a r-I:nfc to indicate the proper length, or abbreviation, ot women's skirts. Mr. Fijrg very properly declined to indicate whether or not the department cf tlis United States attorney-general had any op.nioa in the matter. Expressing hrs own private, per sonal opinion he declared that ikirU should "at least cor-o below tha waist." A::: l) u u u I 1 I 4