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South Bend news-times. (South Bend, Ind.) 1913-1938, February 18, 1921, Morning Edition, Image 15

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THE SOUTH BEND NIWS-TIMES
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Fascinating New Creations from Hats to
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Shoes
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"Heart-Breakers" More
Charming Than Ever.
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This Is the New "Vamp" Coiffure. The Hair Is Coiled Around
the Head Above 1 Broad Band of Brilliants.
whicn doesn't mean grob of iticky red covered
with a thawing: snow powder.
"They could reform the clothes and the com
plexions of their srirl employes over night if they
took united action. I predict they will do just
that before this season is over, unless tho law of
selection operates naturally to crowd out the ex
treme dressers.
"Women want to be the equals of men In busi
ness, but they never can be until they dress th
part," she continued. "They don't have to dres
mannishly; on tho contrary, they should retain
womanliness, but they must dress sensibly.
"The current style in skirts and blouses is not
only unpractical, but it is downright inartistic.
Not one girl in ten has the kind of feet and legs
that look well in the extremes of display. Not
one in a hundred has the constitution to wear
such filmsy things in winter. The display they
make is merely cheap and vulvar.
"Jazz" is the
Name Applied
to the Newest
Thing in Gloves.
These Are
Really Lace
Mittens Like
Grandmother
Used to Wear.
PHOTO f g7 KACCL. 8 ffA0ST
i
The Translucent Tea Gown Has a Broad Border of Fur
at Neck and the Sleeves and Waist Are Prettily
Decorated with Flower Designs.
Bv Barbara Cravdon
IT Is only logical, sfter all, that clothing has at
last been designed for the sole use of "vamps."
The most surprising thing about it is that
rcme thought wasn't given this particular kind of
i parel lonjr ago. The debutante has many de
cigns from which to choo?e, the bride even more
.ir.d the widow is permitted all the ranpe of the
designer's fancy as long as she sticks to the som
bre hue. Hut the "vamp" has nothing that she
can call her own. In fact, it has been charged
that that is just what makes her what she is.
iiut, as she has apparently made her debut and
is here to stay, it is only righi and proper that ap
parel right and proper should be fashioned for her.
The "vamp" always had a place in human af
fairs. Even before Cleopatra the role was an old
one. The Queen of Sheba showed vnmplsh traits
toward Solomon. If not, why did she send him
t ich flattering gifts? Only, the word vamp had
not then been coined. Sometimes they called them
f'.rcns. Wheu the master .of the castle remained
rut all night and, mayhap, all year, his deserted
lady would blame it all on a shapely little sprite
vhich dwelt in the pool of a fountain or amid
Ihe ulippcry cra;5 of
treacherous reef.
"Vamp" is a 20:h century
vrd. More, it is a movie
word. It was coined for such
is Theda Bara.- Al?o, it
coinage has had a psychd
lical ctfect. It has soothed
injured feelings and applied
a ba'.m to outraged nerves,
not unlike the -tlect , of
irlhir.g syrup on baby when
li'd toothing. It used to b
that "the other woman"
caused heartache cr.d sorrow
nr. even more serious com-
!-? ..-' rT sanri'.narv na-
Uut i:ico t!:at word
"vrmp" to ram c r colloquial.
i?vi th vic:im of tlu- triangle,
::.vi:.;T riveted her alimony,
lii:a:T:vly explain- to her
fr.or.d that So -and -So
"vnnipcfi away" her husband.
va th.3 de?'?rt?d huibands
.iro cvir.cir.s: a like tendency
A Ice'.: lightly upon the tlirta-
t ;:.:n of their wives. Wit
r..:? ths ca;e of A. M. Uotj
f:rd, New York actor, who
not only gave hi wifj to his
IrI?r.J, Itaoul Fleischmann,
tut Actually stood best man
ti-ir wedding.
Posed especially for this page were the new
fashions for "vamps' only. The most striking of
the photographs, most will probably agree, is the
translucent tea gown. From the waist down this
is the most daring garment that, perhaps, has
ever been fashioned. The picture shnvs how
diaphanous it is, plainly revealing the wearer's
stockings even beyond the point where most stock
ings end. It seems to have been modeled with
the idea of exaggerating certain features of it
through contrast. Compare its translucence with
the fur trimming about the neck. The grreat
flowers decorating the waist and sleeves add to
iU charm.
photograph just above the toes and It held by
the cross straps.
Going further, we come to the knee watch,
worn just below the knee, one of the most popular
timepieces ever adopted, Every time the fair
wearer consults it a huge throng of men becomo
curious as to the time and crowd about to see if
their judgment of what o'clock it is may be veri
fied by the accurate chronometer of the pretty girl.
In Paris, a one-piece knitted overall is all the
rage, quite diaphanous, one might safely venture.
But it is about the most cc.nfortable article of
apparel .probably ever designed and more than
vamps are interested in its success. Hundreds
advocate that it be made universal style.
The teAjama, differing from the pajama in
costliness and the time of its appearance, is also
solidly ensconced in Parisian high society. Ladies
there entertain in such habiliment and make a hit
The "vamps" ar going to every extreme to
make their garö effective. According to one au-
Censors for the Vamps
"The fault Is not with the movies or with the
mothers," Mrs. Tupper added, "but with the well-to-do
women who set the examples in styles.
Clothes high up the social and financial scale are
Immodest enough, especially in the matter of
evening dress, but when those styles have de
scended a little way they become more 60," she
thinks.
"Most girls are thoroughly goal girls," Mrs.
Tupper said, "but, consciously or unconsciously,
they are guilty cf sex appeal. It hurts them, in
the lack of respect felt for them by men who
normally would be friendly and courteous."
Out at Zion, 111., "vamp" costumes with low.
cut necks have become so popular, or should we
Bay flagrant, that censors, armed with shawls,
are going about covering up the offensive attire.
As one newspaper dispatch reported it:
"Two censors, armed with a dozen woolen
shawls, were appointed by Wilbur Glenn Voliva,
overseer of Zion, to enforce an order against th
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The New
Is Big: and
Plentifully
Plumed.
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The Harem Veil, Reversed, Is One 9f the
Newest Accessories of the Vamp.
The new "vamp" hat Is large and dashingly
plumed, the angle at which its brim shades th
face giving to it a look that could not be anything
but flirtatious. Yet it is strikingly beautiful and
adds dignity to its compelling appearance.
Even "vamp" gloves have been designed, long,
open-work lace creations which, after all, are
nothing but the kind that grandma used to wear.
However, as we said before, there were vamps in
grandma's time. Who knows but what this very
style of glove played its part in the wrecking of
some happy home years and years ago?
Cleopatra the First Vamp
As if red lips and a saucy smile are the most
effective of the "vamps" heavy guns and alone
are able to achieve desired conquest, comes Dame
Fashion with the harem veil, reversed. Instead
of showing the eye3 and part of the nose, as the
harem veil does, this veil displays just the lower
part of the face, nose, lips and chin.
There is a touch of the apparel of Cleopatra,
that arch "vamp," in the coiffure for the modem
heart-breaker. The hair is coiled about the head
in heavy, serpentino twists and just below it, en
circling the forehead, is a diadem of brilliants
matching the sparkle in the eyes.
"Flirt" shoes of oriental cloth, leautifully
decorated, complete the toggery of the present
day "vamp." Thus she has shcc3 and dress and
gloves and hat and veil and coiffure. So, fully
equipped, she is ready to sally forth, to do what
damage she can to hearts and homes.
But there are all sorts of vampish embellisb
ments which have not been included on this page,
improvisations of clever feminine minds intent
on besting a rival or melting an adamantine
heart. Hand-painted spats is one of the noveltie3,
but more effective from the vantping standpoint
is the style now in efTect in Vienna, Austria,
where women wear the; portraits of the man they
are vamping on their slippers. They insert hi3
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thority'they are shaving their
ankles so that there may not be
anything unsightly about tho
gossamer stockings that are
now so popular.
The question of the new styles for "vamps"
has met with some warm criticism by guardians
of morals. One critic is Mrs. Adele B. Tupper,
professor in the Boston University School of Sec
retarial Science. She is quite indignant over the
"vamp" attire of some 'of the young girls of tha:
my. She says:
"Girls in Boston are as guiltv. if r. more :,
as the girls of any other con:r " ' : '.- a. -ju:.-try
when it comes to bad tas .-. th..-.
down in State street or Sumirt- itrret or any
other business locality at the lunch hour and see
the forest of legs and the landscape of bare
chests. Men may Lke to look at such displays,
but they don't want their business hours haunted
by them. They aren't getting anv dividends on
anatomy unlimited.
"It is the extreme style that offends. I believe
in silk stockings; if'a girlcan afford them.'and in
good -clothes always, even at the sacrifice cf some
other, necessity. But good clothes are never ex
treme clothes. I even believe in rouge for pal
women, if it is used discreetly and artistically
Every Shoe
Needs a Vamp,
Just as
Every Vamp
Needs Shoes.
These Are of
Oriental Cioth
and Arc Called
"Flirt" Shoe
wearing of low-neck dresses In tho Zion Taber
nacle. "The censors, Mrs. W. H. C'.cndinen, wife of
the mayor, and Mrs. T. C. Pihl, are to place a
shawl aroiind any woman who violates Uie crdcr,
conduct her from the Tabernacle nd eurrcnJer
her to a waiting policeman.
"A sign ha3 been posted across the front of
the Tabc-r::acle warning Zion women against
wearing dre?ses without collars, skirts more r;aa
three inches above the ar.k'e, open-work stock
ings, 'X-ray' sleeves or transparent blouse:'
It isn't many weeks snco a d 'U-m.ü.c i :fort
was made to establish an cfficial d?ad line be
yond which the so-called "vamp fashions" wera
not to recede. Needless to say it failed. Howard
Figg, assistant to the United State attorney
general at Washington, I). C, wtu; appealed to by
representatives of th Nat;:nnl Garment Jlctail
crs' Association, who asked him for a r-I:nfc to
indicate the proper length, or abbreviation, ot
women's skirts. Mr. Fijrg very properly declined
to indicate whether or not the department cf tlis
United States attorney-general had any op.nioa
in the matter. Expressing hrs own private, per
sonal opinion he declared that ikirU should "at
least cor-o below tha waist."
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