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hl«S |J^ &&-' ItV -fc. J"" b-_ 'iV* ^, i«s mmmm *m*mm l*V r^^tfrv'-v fflflfl«ftaftKR5_W_roffiS_n^^ The island is a small, irregular, octo pus shaped piece of mountain top rising out of the Southern Pacific, its ten tacles reaching out in all directions, forming two or three splendid harbors of refuge for whale ships of former years, and many beautiful bays for the pleasure seekers of today. It is direct ly south of the south island of New Zealand. At one time it was known as the "South Island," the geography of the colony being classified as the North, Middle and South Islands. Since New Zealand has begun to receive notice from parliamentarians she has redressed her geography and caused this little spot to be jilted by her bigger brothers. Two hours in the Theresa Ward tug boat from the Bluff lands the passenger in a more or less compact form on the wharf at a little place called Oban. When the sea is at rest the journey is a pleasant one, but to run a mere tug where the sea is usually a turbulent ex panse certainly reflects some discredit on the business alertness of the coun try. There are two kinds of business men. One kind are made like manu factured articles, the other kind make. Circumstances make the one kind, the other kind make circumstances. One waits and is drawn or left behind, the other kind goes on ahead—pulls—and succeeds gloriously or fails heroically. The latter create the demand. He builds railroads into vast stretches and bids for the people—and usually gets them. He is the kind of stuff new countries are made of and is not absent in the colony recently named the Do minion of New Zealand. But he evi dently had not been digging around Foveaux Strait. Since this seems to be true I hope the people will not be slow in demanding better accommodations. It is not an unusual thing for passen gers to suffer to the limit of endurance on this trip. The writer was standing on the upper deck and with perfect reg ularity of time, as the snout of the boat broke into the side of an approaching wave, a sheet of water would cover the entire hulk and not an inconsiderable portion find its way down his back. Seasick men and women lay below on the deck under the cover of the upper deck but soaking in salt water. Our trip is graphically described by the Dunedin Star of February 19, 1907, as follows: "So much for the cost of the trip, but what about the tug? Here, at present lies the one great drawback which hin ders many from going to Stewart Island. I have heard of several complaints of the pranks played by the Theresa Ward when crossing the veritable malestrom, Foveaux Strait, but none have or could be exaggerated. Given a fine day, the sail of two hours to the island is a regu lar pleasure trip, but otherwise—and it is usually otherwise—the passage is not one readily forgotten. The trip of Wednesday Deo. 26,1906, was one of the worst. Messrs. Hamilton and Garmong of mission fame, with a party of some thirty-three others, were on board. As the Theresa Ward steamed out into the stormy strait, but yet while in com paratively shelter water, this happy band cheerily sang a hymn (no doubt w«U known to the many Dunedinites), "Keep your hearts singing all the while, Make the world brighter with a smile." "Gradually as the tug entered the stormy water, the lusty tones grew fainter—the sweet birds grew more pensive, but still struggled bravely to make the world brighter with painful sickly smiles. One by one they dropped on the deck. Mr. Hamilton was seen to hug the galley chimney most affection ately, while the passengers, and even some of the crew were utterly pros trated, lying about the deck in every direction. "Twas a merciful providence kept them from being washed over board. The Theresa Ward next began to get in some of her fine work in the shape of shipping water. There was absolutely no shelter anywhere from the masses of water that tumbled on deck. Every passenger was soaked to the skin. But the weary two hours came to an end at last, and when the powerful but wicked little tug made fast to the ff wharf at Obau the pleasure seekers the w'friiYifrilriiriif^rn-- ?._*_ ^^^••y^f^SK^ Two Trips Around the World BY O. HAMILTON Under the Southern Cross. STBWABT'S ISLAND. was At the close of months of strenuous labor. For six months I had been speaking erery night and busy every day. Only speakers with a burning message know the nerve fuel required and used in a constant cam paign. We longed for the quiet haunts and were happy when my singer and I were informed that more than thirty people had planned together to give us an interesting recreation and vacation on Stewart's Island. Bo! for the ideal summer resort. The air seemed fresh er, our footsteps lighter. We dreamed of unconventional things—could hear the forest birds in advance and recall ed the bracing air altitude where moun tain sheep had basked in the sunshine, pleasures we had enjoyed in former days. GO-CyS*.!iS-***1-. _M^*_f*««_i*_r*_r*««»jr*_fm_r««K_CJO«-ttKVtt Naturally the surroundings furnish the material for this, as well as all other chapters in my travels, but to the habitant in the great island reaches of largo continents, what I have to depict here from a small mountain top many parts of which is but a little above sea level with roaring waves on all sides, should prove most interesting and of some profit. First, the native. The native, as with all the south sea islandets, is of a dark hue. He is the same as the Maori of the mainland, the finest specimen phy sically and intellectually of all former ly savage people. He is the cannibal of three quarters of a century ago, the oivilian of today. The mothers among the women wear tattooing on the upper and lower lip and chin. Tattoo work on men's faces indicate rank. The face ot a king is completely covered with de signs worked into the skin. There are several theories as to their origin one of which is that they are of Greek de scent. If so they wandered or drifted in this direction as lost seamen before reaching New Zealand shores. There is a legend among them of a wandering band centuries ago accidentally touch ing these shores, and in which there is a graphic account of the entire number being on the point of starvation wheu New Zealand shores were sighted. There is a ghastly picture in the Art Gallery of Auckland, picturing flat ohested, gaunt faced, dark skinned men and women leaning forward in their lavishly carved canoes, with an insane joy expressed on their faces for they, after searching so long in vain, had sighted land. They have resonant voices and many wax eloquent in public speech. One, at least, has distinguished his race in winning a place in the House of Parliament of the colony. Until recently—the sad paragraph in the history of most native races were dieing out, but at present, for explain able reasons are increasing. Those of Stewart's Island in their undisturbed haunts lived chiefly on raw fish and mut ton birds and the roots of native trees. One would hardly think these peaceable people, within the time of people now living, ate human flesh. I met Maggie, the famous guide among the boiling lakes, buried spas, steamescapea and geysers of|Rotorua and Whakarewarewa three years ago. Showing Mr. Wil kinson and I a petrified, bowl-shaped formation, now called the "Brain Pot," said she: "We cooked the brain of the prince of another tribe in this, but, (with much assurance) we don't do that way any more." We ventured that we were thankful for the information. The white population of the island numbers about two hundred, many of whom have never been off the place. Oystering, fishing, mutton-birding and sawmilling are the only occupation of these contented people confined to but a speck on the.map. This region presents a category of fauna extremely curious to an in lander. Our camp was pitched on Butterfield Beach, a half moon shore. From one point of the bay we saw, the third day, a sea lion swimming-in from the open sea. At another time an un wary sea penguin swam ashore, and while Bitting asleep on a shady nook, was caught by one of the women of our party. What a delight to the Natural ist out among bell-birds, mutton birds, "weka" hens, tuis, seagull?, penquins, sea lions, sharks and whales. The sea gull, some species is, of course, found along nearly all coasts in all parts of the world. The Penguin is a bird that lives ^•f !^%v^ 3 it' i-*_*rt_m_rm»7* ***w_m«n_r-. struggled to their feet—at least those who could. Many had to be rubbed to life again, and even some of the mission band found it neccessary to partake of brandy (a bit of sarcasm-writer) before they could again venture to make the world brighter with a smile. The journey back to those who returned was even worse, some of the passengers having to be carried ashore on stretch ers." As a point of psychology probably the islands beauty is intensified after such a trip. But a small part of God's green earth, it is to become the most idea of summer resorts to the jaded city dwellers of New Zealand. On the beach of one of the bays described above, our camp was pitched, eight tents and a rudely constructed table, partly shaded, in the center of White City. Over the ridges from bay to bay, broad well kept paths have been con structed by the government, making the shore line on the eastern side easily accessable to the tourist. Besides, two trips by boat are recommended one, a fourteen mile trip up Patterson Inlet which reaches well into the interior of the island the other leads out into Foveaux Strait and westward for ten miles where passengers are landed for a climb to the top of Mt. Antlem, from which point the observer can see over the entire island and for miles to sea in all directions. The former trip includes a trip to the most southern post office in the world. the sea, and feeds on fish. In the place of wings it has flippers (soaled) like a seal. On land it stands as erect as a soldier, but walks more awkwardly. Great families of them make their homes on lonely rocks and bits of land moun tain tops that protrude above the sur face of the ••_. There they congregate by the thousands during brooding and moulting seasons, during the latter sea son standing around on some hillock like cholera fowls. In such isolated places a man can walk into their midst and with a short club slay them after the success of Samson. On lonely rocks this is even true of the winged birds of the deep, clubbing them as a flock comes swooping down to inspect you as something new upon the scene. The Tui, or Parson bird, is indiginous to New Zealand and nearby islands. As common as the wrens of central United States are they among the bush and gorgeous ferns or the south sea islands. The name is suggested from the fact that while it is a jet black with a bluish tinge on the wing tips, there are two white feathers on the under side of the neck, one laying each way having the appearance of a white necktie. Along the shore from our camp to the second tentacle or peninsula, protrud ing into the sea on our right, we found one of the abiding places of the mutton birds. They are among the protected birds. All along they were the favorite meat of the Maories and now during open season they feed upon them by wholesale. The meat is tender and has the taste of fish. They live along shore in holes burrowed deep in the ground and it is here where the eggs are deposited. A singular fact is that all mutton birds lay their eggs on a certain day of the year. A search for eggs the day before would be of no avail, and the day following would be rewarded lib erally. Mutton bird island is about twenty-five miles south of here where there is a family of untold numbers. The natives skin them and preserve by placing them in bags mado by split ing open the sea weed growing along the coast. There is a disinclination to buy of natives for the reason that natives are consumptives and after the bird is placed in the sea leaf bag, they blow the bag full of breath and close the opening. The meat how ever is a real delicacy and is as pop ular here as Okoboji frog legs are among some Americans. A curiosity is the "Weka" (native) hen. Like the slender-beaked Kiwi, it has not the vestige of a wing. The feathers are almost like hair. A laugh able characteristic is its forward way with strangers. Its abnormal inquis itiveness reminds me of a child who would put its hands in the fire to see how it feels. They are found in heavy underbrush and about accumulations of old branches and logs. They make a peculiar and shrill noise. Whistle at them and they will at once begin to work their way out into the path or open space to see yon and form your acquaintance. With faces turned to one side and upward their full black eyes look up at you seemingly to say: "You are something new." Approach them and they will duck themselves into the bush and seclude themselves from your view. It does not last long. They are unable to endure either silence or seclusion as long as you are about. They are as curious as women. They are swift runners, but inquisitiveness dooms them. Their cleverness is in thieving. Their weakness is for some thing bright such as diamonds or gold watches, chains or charms. Like women in this respect. They have been known to sneak into camps when the parties were out and drag watch-chains and vests, and when found were still at their task dragging the find into the bush. Having learned a native trick, once while on an exploit into the brush we attracted the attention of some wekas, which immediately began to call out at us. We were returning to the camp and it was about ten o'clock at night. The moon shone dimly through the trees. I whistled gently. Miss "Weka" slowly, stopping at intervals, came out into the path ahead. I stood still and by degrees she came closer. I had previously prepared for such an event by tacking a red cloth to a ten foot pole and now shook it briskly at it stepping slowly from it at the same time. The bird advanced rapidly upon its retreating enemy and began to fight the red rag vehemently! Then one of the party held out slowly another pole longer than mine with a strong cord slipknot loop on the end. The loop was successfully placed over the head and drawn quickly on the neck. This, done while the bird was fighting furiously, requires agility. Albeit, Miss Nellie was mine. The bird that bringeth joy in the morning and the solemnity of the whip poor-will in eventide, ten-fold over, is the Australian Bell bird to be heard from camp. Its notes are truly like the clanking of silver bells. I cannot tell it as Wm. Sharp the well known bard and critic. The delight which rapt him when he heard these birds in tueir for est seclusion is expressed in the fol lowing musical THE LEON REPORTER. THURSDAY. JANUARY 30, 1908. "Hush, from the trackless depths comes what sweet sound Ineffable? do spirits underground caverns ring p_a_uPiu_l In hollow chimes H. For elfin deaths in fairy sunless climes Or does some sad aerial spirit high In serene air suspend the listening sky With sweet-remembered music of joybells Changing for death? Hush, how it swells and swells Still swoet and. low and sad —as though the peal Were chimed in forest depths, where never steal Sounds from the world beyond, and where no enise Breaks ever the long dream. It is the voioe Of the mysterious bird whoso bell like note Chimes through Austral noon as church bells float O'er lonely slopes and pastures far from home. Sometimes but once it sang, as when the foam On northern seas sleeps on the ebbing tlbe And scarcely stirs the Inchapes sounding tide To one faint clang then ceased: then once again Tolled out with silver sweetness its part pain, Part reverie over some beloved thing. At last it too was still, recovering Some dream to brood upon with voiceless peace." Now for "Life on the Ocean Wave." Two others and myself were invited by a Mr. Bragg to go to sea with him in his sailing craft on a fishing cruise. The wind was cool, the sun hot, the waves rolling. Casting anchor about Bix miles out we began feeding out fishing lines at once for blue cod. They are a very marketable fish and here about two hundred yards of line must be paid out in order to reach the depth they in habit. They grab bait rapidly, es pecially if the fisherman begins to pull in rapidly as they are deluded into thinking their prize is attempting to escape them. During our two hours a large number of blue cod, some soldier fish and two slimy octopus, or devil fish, were hauled in. The bag-shaped octo pus with its eight long tentacles lined with suckers with which they hold are strong enough to grapple with men. Deeper down in these waters are found the barracouta, a fish from six to eight feet long. The writer's enjoyment con sisted in fishing and playing seasick gymnastics, alternately. The man who wrote "Life On the Ocean Wave" was evidently never at sea. Just before beginning this outing from the Bluff, Mr. Garmong helped a sportsman haul in a medium sized shark —a good omen to the novel experiences that followed in the trip. Many sharks inhabit the waters along the rough coast of New Zealand. There are many kinds and all sizes. When in Honolulu Shah Cahu, Hawaiian Islands, three years ago, we were guests of Hon. W. C. Weeden, one of the best and most favor ably known citizens in Honolulu he and other business men were out shark flsh ish and afterwards deposed as follows: That after an exciting pull a shark was hauled ashore with their huge line and when opened they counted forty-three young shark in the stomach, the small est one being three feet long. An in teresting habit of the shark is to, in the event of danger, open its mouth, when the young swim into the stomach where pouches or stalls are arranged by na ture for them. A similar story is told by Capt. C. F. Sundstrum, a reliable man and well known resident of Dunedin, New Zealand. Four years ago a man suddenly disappeared in Honolulu while swimming beyond the reef at an unfre quented beach. Afterwards a shark was caught by Japanese fishermen and when opened the stomach was found to contain a man's foot and shoe, the lat ter being recognized by the missing man's wife as the shoe of her husband. These statements go in these places without challenge. The chief danger is in swimming beyond reefs out into the deeper water. However, while we were in Dunedin last summer the chief city engineer, while wading with his boy in the beach at Timeru, saw a shark approaching. When making ready for their prey they always turn slowly over on their backs and then make a dart forward with open mouths. The engi neer picked up his boy to place him be yond danger and started for the shore when the shark tore all the flesh off one of his legs. The man died the next day. There are musoles back of each of the large number of teeth enabling the huge fish to turn them inward after clamp ing into the flesh, fish hook fashion, making escape impossible. This is a wonderful whale field. From the top of Mt. Antlum, Stewart Island's highest peak, the eye circumscribes the entire bit of land and scans the ocean's broad expense, the "whaling grounds" of thirty years ago. Vast schools of sperm whale are here, even now, and are frequently seen, but the discovery of numerous beds of petroleum and the establishment of oil refineries has de stroyed the whaling industry so thrifty thirty years ago. Stewart's Island fur nished sheltering harbors for great American whaling fleets. Frank Bul len, an Englishman and ex-whaler on an American ship, who has become famed in furnishing a book entitled "The Cruise of the Catchalot" which deals with his exppriencfis in the south sea whaling grounds, as well as other parts where they are to be found, gives some noteworthy facts about this monster of the deep. He is a Christian gentleman, a lecturer of later years, and author of several other works. On the sixth day iu v.u.iup boiue of us went on a fourteen mile expeditiou through the scrub and wmm r$ r*--^'••%' 5*,'%v woods to Port Williams, the stopping place of Mr. Bullen, a place mentioned frequently in his book. It is a shelter ing place where they would sail with a captive alongside in order to "cut in." After harpooning and killing a whale, a task frought with excitement and danger it is lashed to the side of the ship and made to float as they sail to harbor. There were times when the fish was worked up at sea but when the sky manifested appearances of storm they usually set sail for such a place as Pt. Williams. After arrival, men with large axes climbed down on the whale and begin their work of "cutting in" which consists of cutting off the blubber next to the skin. This blubber is about two feet thick. Huge chunks are lifted aboard and put in large copper vats, where it is boiled in order to extract the oil. The fuel consists of the fat of other whales from which the oil has been extracted. This process over, the oil is barrelled. Then the head is cut off, a laborous process, and lifted by a crane aboard ship, the opening made on the top from which pure whale oil is dipped from a huge recess with buckets and put in barrels. Then the commercial whalebone is taken from the jaw and staked up to dry. A statement of value to bible stu dents is that the throat of a Sperm whale is like a huge submarine cavern, that it would seem that a man could stand nearly erect and walk down. It feeds upon not only large fish but even shark. To say the least, modern science cannot be used as a club against the Biblical record of Jonah and "the big fish". It may aid in conceiving the size of the sperm whale to read from Mr. Bullen that from the cup in the whale's head is taken seveal tons of pure oil. Be it remembered that he is a recognized authority on the subject throughout the British empire. Still further, we have it, that an average whale will produce an average of eighteen tons of oil alone, and in the days when the industry was thriving a single catch was valued at an average of four thousand dollars. The male is larger, hence more valuable than the cow. Whalebone can now be seen strewn here aud there along the shore of this island. Such is the environment of Stewart Island. It is an ideal spot for repose. The crystal waters of this quiet recess of the Pacific caresses a beach of golden sand, backed by a narrow circle of grassy meadow, and this, in turn is hemed in by precipitous hills richly clothed in verdore green. Here then, man may shut himself from tho busy world of strife and noise, and laugh and talk with indulgent nature, by day en raptured by the glorious vision of the sunkissed sea, the glistening beach, the ever joyous notes of birds loudly pro claiming from the trees that "God is love", by night the ir.oonlit softening scene draws man's heart to brighter things, and he with nature made one whisper "God's love is supreme". Sun day is here and our sojourn nearing an end. There are three churches in the town hard by, but all seemed to prefer the simple service by the sea. There on the sand and rocks, laved by the sparkling water, and shaded by a bower of rich green trees, did hymns of praise ascend to the "Giver of all Good. It was quite unique, and spiritually in vigorating. Russell Lowell in his par able speaking of the modern church makes Christ say: With gates of silver and bars of gold We have fenced my sheep from their father's fold, But here one felt that the rippling water, the leafy bower, aud higher blue on dome of heaven formed a link where by the heart of man might all the more easily unite with his Creator. As we stood there bareheaded, with the gentle murmur of the ocean in our ears, in touch with nature, in touch with God, ones thoughts flew to that other sea beach scene, the landing of the pilgrim fathers. But there The breaking waves dashed high On a stern and rockbound coast, And the woods against a stormy sky Their giant branches tossed. But after their noble flight is over and in imagination one could now see them standing on that other beach across the river, on such a peaceful river as ours, a happy, happy band. The short impressive service over, we slowly wended our way over the beach to where the smoke curled lazily up from the camp fire on the green. (To be continued) Rank Foolishness. "When attacked by a cough or a cold, or when your throat is sore, it is rank foolishness to take any other medicine than Dr. King's New Discovery." says C. O. Eldridge, of Empire, Ga. "I have used New Discovery seven years and I know it is the best remedy on earth for coughs and colds, croup, and all throat and lung troubles. My childrenj are subject to croup, but New Discovery quickly cures every attack." Known the world over as the King of throat and lung remedies. Sold under guar antee at L. P. "Van Werden's drug store. 50c. and §1,00. Trial bottle free. An annual sprint in religion will not do much good in the heavenly race. E is S a in in removes Hard Soft or Calloused Lumps and Blemishes from horses also Blood Spavins, Curbs, Splints, Sweeney, King Bone, Stifles, Sprains, Swolleu Tliroats, Coughs, etc Bare $50 by use of one bottle. A wonderful Blemish Cure. Sold by W. A. Alexander, Druggist. COFFEEwitheage. LAWYER. lik wine, im- proves Old Golden Coffee is an un usually superior blend of "Old Crop" coffees—prop erly aged to develop the finer qualities. OLD GOLDEN COFFEE will prove a revelation of coffee goodness. Try a pound and you will be de lighted with its rich fra grance and smooth, mel low flavor. as cents a pound at dealers. TONE BROS.. OES MOINES. IOWA. KIDNEY, LIVER AND BOWELS Sickness is next to impossible if you keep the Kidneys, Liver and Bowels in perfect Working order with an occasional dose of Dr. A. W. Chase's Kidney-Liver Pills Mr. S. B. Holden, No. 284% Cass Ave., Grand Rapids, Mich., says:—"I have for years been subject to sluggishness of the liver and constipation, the kidneys were also inactive and caused me a great deal of pain across my loins. I got some of Dr. A. W. Chase's Kidney-Liver Pills and tbey cured the Inactivity of the organs rapidly and easily. I would not be without them." 26c a box at all dealers. Write for a free sample. Dr. A. W. Chase Medicine Co., Buffalo, N. T. Bell & Robinson, Druggists W.J. Smothers The Leading Shoe Shop. All work done on short notice and satisfaction guar anteed. Bring in your work Two doors east of the Statzell Produce House. J. W..R0WELL DENTIST.. teed All work'done first-class and grttaran Office in Long block. J. s. COONTZ /». D. Office hours 10 a. m. to 12 in. and 2 p. m. Office In Woodland, Iowa. to 4 p. m. FRED A. BOWMAN, D. PHYSICIAN1AN12SOKGEON0 Leon, Iowa. Office hours 1 to a. m.-l:3 to 3:30 p. m.—7.30 to 8:30 p. m. Leon Phone, Office 7—residence 38 Farmers' Mutual, Office 6—residence 11. Special study and attention given to Rectal Diseases. V. R. McGIINNIS Successor to Curry & McGlnnia. In Kay block We Own Offlee H. R. LAVTON PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON. Offlce'over Alei- ander's drug store. Phone 7. J. 0. WOODMANSEE OSTEOPATHIC PHYSICIAN, examination free. Office House one block north of square, hours 9 to 12 a. m. and 1 to 4 p. Consultation and at Woodmansee Phone 6. Office DR. W. 6. JEFFRIES. Successor to Dr. O. W. Foxworthy E and obstetrics a specialty. Block, Leon, Iowa. Phone 48. swered promptly day or night. Biggs All calls an- and Control Acres. 500,000 Canada. Dakota and Washington wheat lands." Also R. R. timber, mineral and government lands elsewhere. We are established nine years. We do little advertising. We save you money by our methods. Tell us what you want. Agents wanted. Information free. Address WESTERN LAND 531 Good Block CO., Des Moines, Iowa. Iowa Steam Laundry Co. 3 Anything from finest silk,'^| fibre to heavy wool curtains. 1 Dye Works in connection^ Send Basket Monday and Wednesday.,^ J. A. CASTER, Agent? CAPT. J. L. GOODING Kellerton, Iowa. HICHESTERS PILLS !_» ,.r' 1_ THE IHAMCNW BJ__N_T A Ask your I»rua__,t Co, I'llto in Bed and «old n,rtalHc\V boxes, sealed with Blue Rlt-bcn.Yy Take no other. Buy of »onr few**- Askfwcin.oiiE^rFn*_ DIAMOND BUANtt PttflftSM yeat knownas Best. Safest. Alwa^Sfabto SOLOBYORUGGISFS EVERYWHERE it •J? The Auctioneer Who Makes Your Sale a Money Maker. -»j Telephone or wire for dates at my expense. y_