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THE MAKING OF LACE
Rare Patterns Which Represented a Life of Tireless Effort. The Eo'ptiaai Were the Flrat Weav er* ot the Delicate Fabric*— Church in the Middle Aft* Consumed the Best. The fair women who walk In our high places clad in filmy splendors of rare old lace have pressed into the service of their beauty the products of lifelong work and consummate skill. One wonders whose was the first keen brain and restless hand which conceived the idea of distorting threads to the fine and delicate shapes of a graceful pattern, who was it named the same, who improved and amplified the idea, what ancient beauty first found It a fit frame for her grace, and what people first elevated it to an art? There is little doubt that the Egyptians, FLAT NEEDLE POINT LACE—VENETIAN ABOUT 1645, of the civilized nations we can trace, were lacemakers and weavers, in so far that we know they pulled threads and decorated the borders of their linen; from Jewish records we know that they, as a people, both made and appreciated fine needlework. Thence on to Rome and » Italy via the Grecian archipelago was an 'easy course, and in the middle ages we find Venice the center and core of the lace-making industry, which was then at its height of glory. It was the religious persecutions on the continent which drove lace-workers over to England in the sixteenth c#ntury. The history of Colbert and the French centers he established under a politic king are too well known to need detail ing; and the extravagant wear of lace, the luxurious endeavor of each courtier to outshine his fellows in ruffle and col lar of finest ^rork are also matters of well known and unedifying history. Very few women are judges of lace, though they may wear the delicate fabric with infinite grace. It requires a con noisseur’s instinctive bias and an ex pert’s skill and experience to decide the original home of any given piece of lace, more especially old lace, and the date of its manufacture. Of course there are certain broad divergences in this, as in every applied art. No one would mis take Valenciennes, smooth and elusive, for Spanish rose point, with its stiff pad ded richness, or Maltese for point d’An gleterre, of gossamer fineness. The dif ficulty of unravelling hand-made lace makes It easy to distinguish from the machine-made variety. It would be folish to try and drag in modern laces as matter for discussion or illustration in the narrow limits of one short article; therefore I shall only show comparatively old specimens in the two accompanying illustrations. One BRUSSELS LACE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. represents part of a veil of Brussels pil low-made “reseau,” with ornaments of flowers and sprigs giving a spotted effect; the border is of needlepoint lace. In “Brussels applique” the little sprigs are worked separately from the net or “reseau” to which they are applied. I have seen one magnificent veil of Brus sels pillow^made lace sprinkled profuse ly throughout with pillow renderings of various “modes,” partly applied, partly worked into the ground. The other illustration shows an ex tremely fine example of seventeenth cen tury Venetian lace, “Punto in Aria.” The lace—along the outer side of which are floral Vandykes with an inner border of intricate device, alternating stars, blos som, leaves and pomegranates—edges a panel of finest linen. The continuous stem in the broader lace portion springs from what looks to me very like the de vice of a bunch of grapes, closely worked. The whole design is held together by plain bars or “brides.” A piece like this is probably the work of some devoted recluse, and destined tor priestly use. Mother Church absorbed much of the finest work of brush, needle and chisel in these wise dark middle ages. Dark, for the unparalleled narrowness of the spiritual outlook; and wise for the strenuous concentration and devotion of energy which handed down to posterity these exquisite works of art. « DUDLEY DUNN. CHINESE SCHOOLBOYS. Oae of Them That Attended Andovei Twenty-Five Years A*o Is Now a Plenipotentiary. Sir Chentung Liang-Cheng, the pres ent Chinese minister to the United States, was a schoolboy 25 years age at Phillips academy, in Andover, Mas sachusetts. Pi Yuk Liang, as he wa* then called, was a favorite with hit schoolfellows, who, says t.he Kansas City Star, lost the feeling with regard to him that there is something queer about a Chinaman. An old schoolfellow of Pi Yuk says that the young Chinese aristocrat cam* to Andover in 1879, and entered th« third year, thus becoming a member ol the class of 1882. He was a large boj about 17 years old, robust, handsome, full of fun and spirits. There was sev eral Chinese boys at the academy then including Pi Yuk’s roommate, Hei Lin Lieu. The Chinese boys were just like oth er boys. They wore clothes like ours and put their pigtails down the backi of their necks inside of their coats, sc that one could see only a small pari of the rope. They were manly, cleaD in morals and well-bred. Pi Yuk’s manners were especially charming. He was a great lover of nature, anC liked to take walks in the moonlight He used to say that he would marrj an American girl and spend the rest ol his days in this country, which he loved deeply. The greatest proof of Pi Yuk’s Amer icanism was the enthusiasm with which he adopted the great national game. He pitched a baseball with great skill, and although he delighted in all out-of-door sports, baseball was his favorite. He was a regular pitcher on the Andover team, and one of the most cool and steady players in the pitcher’s box. Pi Yuk and his countrymen were not allowed to graduate from Andover. During the summer after their second year an emissary from China discover ed with horror that the boys were be coming too good Americans, and soon after they were sent home to the Celestial Kingdom. Oar View of the Moon. Improvements In telescopes and in photography have been bringing the moon nearer to us each year, until now it is regarded with much the same in terest as the ocean depths. W. de Fon ville points out that the existence of the cities imagined by Schrotter has been already disproved, and we seem now on the verge of acquiring a start in lunar natural history. At any rate, changes have been noted in the tint of certain regions that suggest the development and disappearance of some kind of vegetation. Kepler suggested that all water on the moon must take the form of ice during the long night of 354 hours, and it is now argued that the air itself —probably not more than a sixth as dense as that o^ the earth—may be con verted into snow by the intense cold. This idea is confirmed by indications of -an atmosphere in places that have been lighted by the sun long enough to change the solid air into the gaseous state. A liquefied or solid atmosphere could not be easily detected at our dis tance, as its average depth would be only six or seven feet, the earth’s at mosphere being sufficient to give a liquid ocean of only about 35 feet in depth. The Selence of Sayings. In a paper read before the Anthropo logical society of Washington on “Popu lar Sayings” Mr. A. R. Spofford called attention to the wealth of such sayings in English and Irish, and remarked that these had a distinct ethical value in that they are almost invariably optimistic. Prof. McGee said we may almost predi cate the stage of development of a people by their use of proverbs. Proverbs pre vail In lower culture. Mr. Walter Hough pointed out the debt of language and lit erature to popular sayings, and Miss Fletcher said that among Indians ethical proverbs, such as “Stolen food does not satisfy hunger,” are used In teaching. Hard on Him. "Your father did not object to our marriage as much as I had expected.” “Oh, poor papa has given up the idea of being too particular.”—Brooklyn Life. _ The Peach In China. The peach is considered the most wholesome of fruits by the Chinese, and its praises are sung by the poets of their land. _ A Poor Trade. Sometimes people lose their charac ters in the effort to save their reputa tions.-* Chicago Tribune. "Papa," 6aid little Tommy Tad della, “what is tiie game of authors?” “The game of authors, Tommy.” replied Mr. Tadaelle, “is to sell their book.*.”—Smart Set. Self-possesion is nine points with the lawyer.—Chicago Daily News. TOOK RISK IN COUGHING. Barber Used to Shaving Colorado Co*« ■ umptlvea Always Gave Warning. The man in the chair coughed suddenly and unexpectedly, statee the Philadelphia Record. “Don't do that again,” exclaimed the barber, with an unwarranted display of irritation. The man in the chair resented in somewhat lurid language this restriction of his personal liberty and intimated that he would cough whenever he felt like it. “All right, then, cough your head off, but don't blame me if I cut you,” returned the barber. There was no more coughing, how ever, and the man in the chair made his escape without any injury. But, as he paid hit check at the desk, he remarked to the boss barber: “Say, you want to give some nerve tonic to the fellow w'ho just shaved me.” “Oh, don’t mind him,” replied the boss. “He’s from Colorado and he s used-to shav ing consumptives. He was telling me the other day that he’s been in the business for over 20 years and has shaved everything from a 16-year-old boy to an octogenarian drunkard, but his nerve went back on him when he drifted into Colorado Springs and started to shave the consumptives who hang out there. Ever since then a man with a cough gives him cold chills. Out there, he tells me, not a day goes by that some ‘lunger’ doesn’t get a gash m his throat while being ahaved.’_ “I Found It So.” McCormick, 111., Sept. 28th.—Miss Ethel Bradshaw, of this place, has written a let ter which is remarkable for the character of the statements it contains. As her letter will be read with interest, and probably with profit by many women, it has been thought advisable to publish it in part. Among otheT things Miss Bradshaw' says:— “I had Kidney Trouble with the various unpleasant symptoms which always come with that disease, and I have found a cure. I would strongly advise all who may be suf fering with any form of Kidney Complaint to use Dodd’s Kidney Pills, a remedy which I have found to be entirely satisfactory. “This remedy is within the reach of all and is all that it is recommended to be. I found it so, and I therefore feel it my duty to tell others about it.” Dr. Dunaway, of Benton, 111., uses Dodd s Kidney Pills in hie regular practice, and says they are the best medicine for Kidney Troubles. He claims they will cure Diabetes in the last stages. Plenaant Time in Proapect. The Victim—Gracious, man! Are you go ing to shave rne with that razor? Barber—That will do all right. 1 rely on my strength.—Stray Stories. —• i To Cure a Cold in One Day. Take Laxative Bromo Quinine Tablets. All druggists refund money if it fails to cure. 25c. Wisdom of Experience. “Why,” asks a Missouri paper, “does Mis souri stand at the head in raising mules?” “Because,” replies the Paw Paw Corner Bazoo, “that is the only safe place to stand.” Piso’s Cure cannot be too highly spoken of is a cough cure.—J. W. O’Brien, 322 Third Ave., N., Minneapolis, Minn., Jan. 6, 1900. What I must do is all that concerns me, not what the peonle think.—Emerson. No muss or failures made with Putnam Fadeless Dyes. Do not yield to misfortunes, but meet them with fortitude^—Virgil. The chief art of learning is to attempt but little at a time.—John Locke. The hand that is guided by intellect is surs to achieve something.—Chicago Daily News. "All Bostonians are types.” "Yes, agate types that consider themselves nonpareils.” —Life. ^_ Bulky Butters—"Is dey swell folks up at dat house?” Woeful Walters—“Is dejr srwell? Say, dey didn’t hit me wit’ nuttin’ but golf clubs.’—Cleveland Plain Dealer. Constance—"I wonder how Nancy came to marry Harry Riddle?” Imogene—“Why, haven’t you heard ? He is immoderately fond of auto riding, and he carries a large accident policy.”—Boston Transcript. Harlow—“I noticed you called Fred 'brother.’ Does he belong to some secret society that you do?" Shallop—"I don't be long to any secret society. I call him brother because my wife once promised to be a sister to him.”—Boston Transcript. “What do you think of this lady ?” asked one of the germs that had been swept up by the woman’s skirt. “I am greatly at tached to her,” answered the other. “In fact, I am one of the most ardent followers in her train."—Indianapolis Sun. "I put in the French phrases here and there, said the would-be author, "to give the book an atmosphere o«f culture.” “H’m!” remarked the critic, “it would have helped a bit if you had put in a little good Eng lish in spots.”—Philadelphia Ledger. The relations of a lady who had died, leaving a legacy to a favorite donkey in order to secure its comfort, recently came into court and asked for a decision as to ▼ho was to enjoy the legacy after the dnkey’s decease. “The next of kin," was the judge’s ▼erd ict.—Punch. _ Housekeeper—“I’ll give you a good meal if you’ll light the fire in the stove for me.” Weary Willie—'“All right lady." House keeper—“Very well. Here’s a hatchet. Just chop some of that wood out there—” Weary Willie—“Oh, see here, lady. I thought it was a gas stove you had! Good day 1 ”—Phil adelphia Press. STRAIGHT TO THE SPOT Aching backs are eased. Hip, back, and loin pains overcome. Swelling of the limbs, rheumatism, and dropsy signs vanish. They correct urine with brick-dust sediment, high colored, excessive, pain in passing, dribbling, frequency. Doan’s Kidney Pills dissolve and remove calculi and gravel. Relieve heart palpita tion, sleeplessness, headache, nervous ness. _ Tell City, Ind.— I received the free trial of Doan’s Kidney Pills. They are splendid. I had an awful pain in mv back ; on taking the pills the pain left me right away and I feel like a new man.— Stephen Schaefer. Mrs. Addie Andrews, R. P. D. No. 1. Brodhead, Wis., writes: I received the free trial of Doan’s Kidney Pills with much benefit. My little nephew was suffering terribly with kidney trouble from scarlet fever. Two doctors failed to help him and he finally went into spasms. His father gave him Doan’s Kidney Pills and from the second dose the pain was less. He began to gate and is to-day a well boy, his life saved by Doan’s Kidney Pills. Ruddles Mills, Ky.—-I received the free trial of pills. They did me great good. 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Sold by retail shoe dealers everywhere. Look for name and i price on bottom. That Douglas uses Cor* onaColt prorea there ia A ralue in Douglas shoes. 4 Corona Is the highest grade Pat.Leather made. gBj Fast Color Eyelets used. S! vur «//r c Line rannoz oe equauea at any price. Shoes bjr mall, 25 rents extra. Illustrated Catalog free. W. L. DOUGLAS, Brockton, Hass. Cholly—“That was a clevah thing you said to Freschev lawst night.” Miss Pep pery—“Who told you?” ( holly—“Why, 1— er—heard you say it.” Miss Peppery—“Yes, but who told you it waa clever? —Philadel phia Press. REE ! TO WOM ENl A Large Trial Package of._I, Inflammation, bareness, Pemo Catarrh cannot exist with It. Paxtlae aird aa a vaginal doaehe la a revelatlr* la combined eloanslug and healing power. It kills all disease germa In local treatment of female ills It Is luvaluable. Heals Inflammation and cures all discharges. Merer fails to cure Masai Catarrh. Cures oflensire perspiration of arm pits and feet. 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