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THE GENERAL opinion seems to be that the cowpeas are especially hard to cure into hay. All around me I see farmers mowing peas and letting them lie in the sun till dry and then raking up a pile of naked stems, the leaves being all lost, though they are the best part of the hay. Treated in this way, the peas make a rough hay far inferior to what they would make if properly cured. Instead of be ing difficult to cure, I have al lways found cowpeas as easy to [cure as any other forage plant. I have cured the hay in fine shape for many years, and never used a stake, a bush, or Pbofessob Massey 3 BCaffold* but have simply • made the hay just as I would make clover hay by keeping it from the sun as much as possible while curing. Curing partly in the cock and windrow, and letting it finish in the barn, I have always had clean, sweet hay with the leaves on and green in color. Cowpeas will cure if you will simply let them cure and do not monkey with all sorts of con trivances to spoil the hay. My plan has been to start the mowers in the morning and cut till noon. Start a tedder right after the mowers and keep it going to toss the hay up loosely to facilitate the Willing. Rake In to windrows that afternoon. Next morning turn the windrows and that afternoon cock the hay into as tall and narrow cocks as will stand well. As soon as you can take a bunch in both hands and give a twist and can see no sap run to the twist, haul it into the barn while the leaves are still limp, and when in the barn let it strictly alone, and it will cure bright and sweet. How long it should stay in the cocks will de pend on the condition of the crop and the weath er. I have stored it the third day after cutting when the crop and the weather were both favor able. and I have had to let a ranker growth stay out a week. Caps of cotton cloth are useful for protecting the cocks, but rain does not do the damage that it does with red clover hay. Some cure by setting stakes over the field and shocking the green peavines as fast as cut around the stakes, after the manner of curing peanuts. It will cure in this way, but there will be a great loss of the leaves after they get crisp, and as I have always made the best of hay in my method, I cannot see the advantage of the labor and ex pense of setting stakes. The first point to observe is to let the peas ma ture to the yellowing of the pods, but not t* let them get so mature that they will begin to cast their leaves, which they do very soon after the ripening of the pods. I have seen this summer a number of fields of peas with corn sown among the peas. There will be a smaller growth of the peas by reason of the presence of the corn, and the hay will be harder to cure, and worth less, than without the corn, for the great value of peavlne hay lies in its high protein character, and half corn will diminish this. If anything is mixed with the peas, I would pre fer the all-yellow soy bean, for this by its upright growth will help to hold up the peas and make the mowing easier, and the soys will Increase instead of diminishing the protein content of the hay. Farm and Garden in August. OVER MUCH of the South August is one of the most leisure months, as in the Upper . .. SUth ,the C0tt0n plck,n& bae not begun while the cultivation is completed. thi m S°U,thern Mary,and and Virginia August is the time for sowing crimson clover seed among the S5- 18,best to eo through with a small tooth cultivator lightly and then sow the seed on the fresh soil. Sow fifteen pounds per acre. Further South September and October will be ahm?tr\tnd«tbe. B6fd Can be sown am'»ne the cotton about the first picking. Those who have grown their own seed are fortunate, for it is about im possible to get home-grown seed on the market and what there is. is held at $10 a bushel. The seedsmen are offering imported seed at $6 a bushel. But even at these prices the clover is cheaper as a soil-improver than any fertilizer that can be bought for $20 a ton. Lat# Potatoes.—Seed of the early crop that have been cut and covered for sprouting should be planted as they show signs of sprouting. Plant in very deep furrows aud cover lightly till they 6tart, and then work the soil to them as they grow till level, and cultivate shallow and level to con serve the moisture. Seed that has been kept in cold storage can also be planted, and will make a more certain and better crop for winter use. Sweet Potatoes.—We now have wire guards to attach to the cultivator so that we can run through and lift the vines as the cultivator passes and drop them behind it. With this arrange ment one can go through the potatoes later than otherwise without throwing the vines over the rows as is common. Make cuttings now about a yard long and make them into a soil and plant the coll in the hill, leaving only the tip of the shoot out. Then every joint will make a bunch of little potatoes that will be far better for bedding next spring than small cullings from the crop. Curled Scotch Kale.—Now is the time to sow the seed of this for winter use. Last winter this kale sold at retail on our market at five cents a pound, and has been as high as eight cents. I am sowing mine. Spinach.—The first Bowing of Bplnacb for fall use and early winter should be made during Au gust. Then later sowings in September and Octo ber will keep up a supply till In the spring. Every garden should have a supply of kale and spinach for winter use. Turnips.—Strap-leaved turnips may be sown for fall use. but it is better for winter to defer the sowing till September. The larger growing turnips and the rutabagas may still be sown. The flat strap-leaved and (fulck-growing sorts may be sown broadcast, but I prefer to sow all In rows, and the late sown ones can then be pro tected In winter with a furrow thrown to each side. Carrots.—The Early Horn carrots sown In this month can be left in the ground in winter and will keep nicely with the soil thrown to the rows and are very useful in soups in winter. Parsnips and Salslfy.—Soutb of North Carolina these can still be sown, and as they will grow better in cool weather, and. In fact, will grow all winter, late sowing makes better quality in the roots. Those that were sown in July should be thinned to Btand three inches apart in the rows I sow parsnip seed in little pinches three IncheB apart so that the light seed can push through better. Then it 1b easy to thin the bunches to a single plant. Onion Sets.—My onion sets have Just been lift ed and placed In the shade In an out-house for curing. These are the Early Talt's Queen. I will plant them In late September In well fer tilized beds setting the setB deep In the bed ho that the soil can be pulled from them in then spring and the bulbs form on the surface of the soil. These are for green bunching onions, for we grow better ripe onions from seed sown in February or March. Garden Corn.—Grow your own seed of sugar corn and you will find that it can be grown in the Seuth. The seed from the seedsmen is all grown in Nebraska and doeH not do well in the South. Plant Stowell’s Evergreen and the Egyptian sweet corn and save the seed, and you can soon accli mate it. Keep something growing in the garden all the time, and keep the weeds down and you will have fewer cut-worms In the spring, if you are bothered with nut-grass, keep at It and d0 not let it go to seed now, for thousands of plant* come from seed for every one that comes from the roots. I have nearly banished it in one sea son from my garden by simply going for it every day* Celery'.—The latter part of the month win be time enough to set celery plants in their perma nent quarters in North Carolina, and September further South, while In Florida the celery grow ers will be just starting for their winter crop, j set celery plants In beds six feet wide. Plant la rows across the bed, sitting the plants six lnche* apart and the rows a foot apart. Leave plenty of space on the *ide8 for earthing. Begin earth ing when the nights get cool in October. Straight en up each plant and pack earth around it by to keep it erect, and then you can All In between with a shovel and carry the bed up six lnchtri outside the ends of the row*. Just keeping the growing leaves above the soli at each earthing till December, and then earth the bed all over and cover with pine straw to keep out freeslng, you can dig the celery all winter. Use the most moist soli you have and fertilise heavily. More Garden Notes. A CORRESPONDENT write* that he la mack Interested in my notes on the garden. I am glad of this, and hope that every reader of The Progressive Farmer and Oaxette will taka more Interest In having a tine garden all the y#ar round, and not a spring garden only, and a weed patch to breed cut-worms In the fall. As fast as the roasting ear*' are gathered for use I cut the stover and cure It, and then dig oat all the stumps, for I do not want them In tka way. These corn butts are piled In an out-of-the» *a> place to rot, and all the potato tops, pea vino* and garden rubbish In general goes Into the pile The refuse from the kitchen goes there too, and every time an addition is made to the heap 1 sprinkle air-slaked lime over It. Then by next spring I will have a mass of humus-making ma terial to return to the garden. J» We are now luxuriating In vegetables of maay sorts. Among these, the chard Is a favorite. Tkii is a sort of beet with golden yellow leave* aid silvery white leaf stalks. These leaf stalk* are pulled off and cooked like asparagus, and any one * ho has never grow*n chard should try It and real ise how good It is and what a fine summer substi tute It is for nsparagus. j* r»o rows of cucumbers forty feet long have gi'en us bushels more than we could use, Slk4 from the first of July we have had tomatoes Is t'uppfabundanee, and. in fact, have been soiling jushels to the grocers Just now we are in tbs height of the egg plants, and when one has a dish of fried or baked egg plant he does not need much meat. Two rows of these give us all w# want, and Rome to sell. Jt ,,roffi *«*rly in July wc have been having n succession of roasting ears, and will have them till frost stops them, for I keep planting, and now "here my early potatoes were grown, there Is corn now Just tasselllng, and another »et later thus this is not yet showing tassels. The Suc cession cabbages that followed the Karly Wake Hplcl have now made broad, heavy heads. Air* »lake lime, with a little salt mixed In It dusl *< °vor beads keeps the worms off so fsr. but must be renewed after a rain. I would not hesitate to use Paris green In tho esrly stages of t e crop, but now that the heads are made, I do not want to put poison on them. I ben In the way of flowers I have about two hundred dahlias grown from seed, and It Is very merest Ing to watch them coming Into bloom, and note whether they are worth keeping or not. Then m'° tt *ot *©«dllng caiman that are coming I, 1,0 blo°m. and every one so far Is fine. I have II, 111 with large heads of orange-colored flowers, pink flowers, scarlet flowers, scarlet with yellow center, and one a pnle lemon color without a i pot of any sort. Some have green leaves, and Horn*- have bronze leaves, and so far, not a plant that has bloomed but Is well worth keeping, for the seed came from one of the best collectlens In this country. J» 1 her© 1h lots of fun in u good garden, and lota '» pleasure eating what one's own labor has pro duced and gathered. Curled Scotch kale will now be sown for the winter and spinach later. "The Foremost Agency in the Agricultural Uplift." Durant, Miss., R. 8, July 80, 1910. Progressive Fanner and Gazette, Starkvilie. Miss. Gentlemen:—1 am enclosing one dollar for the renewal of my subscription to The Progressive Farmer and Gazette, which ex pires in a couple of weeks. I have been a reader of the paper since It was establish ed and do not wish to miss a single copy. I think that you are doing more than any other agency in Mississippi for uplifting the cause of the farmer. J. E. DREVNAft.