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Bathing Frocks and Swimming Suits
Bathing suits of this year’s design Include many new departures from ac cepted styles of other years. They are ampler in length and width of skirt; many of them have sleeves that partially cover the upper arm, and considerable needlework is involved In their making. There are princess models that look like riding coats, and there are full skirts with pantalets that reach some inches below the knees. Most novel of all is a model made of silk with a very full skirt sewed together across the bottom, with two openings to thrust the feet through. This serves the purpose of bloomers and skirt. One of the best of the new designs is shown in the illustration. It is of black taffeta trimmed with narrow white braid. The skirt is cut in four gores, narrow at the top and pointed at the bottom. The waist, cut with kimono sleeves, opens over a white silk vest. Revers reach to the waist line, and there is a small flaring collar at the back. These and the sleeves, which are slit up the top of the arm, are outlined with two rows of the nar row white braid. Black and white silk in wide stripes make the close-fitting cap with wings of plain black, and black and white are combined in the [Stockings and slippers. Altogether jthis is a model that is attractive and practical. Short knickerbockers are worn under the skirt. Broad stripes-in many "color "com binations serve the designer of smart bathing suits to the best purpose. Wide skirts are cut with stripes run ning diagonally about the figure, and the waists with perpendicular stripes. Usually a fitted girdle of silk, in a plain color, is shaped into a pointed belt that joins waist and skirt, and a little vest of the plain silk is intro duced at the front. Bloomers and stockings match the vest and girdle in color, and it is the custom to make the hat or cap of the same plain ma terial. There is a distinction between a regular swimming suit and the bath ing frock. Swimming suits are closer fitting and are made of wool jersey or fiber silk, for the girl who takes her swimming seriously. No frivolities of decoration add even a little extra weight to it and it is not expected that the wearer will promenade about the beach in it. The princess bathing suits are very trim and shapely. Plain materials, with collar, pockets and borders in striped or plaid or checked fabrics, make them very sightly affairs. The bloomers reach below the knees, and the skirts are almost as long. Silk poplin and taffeta head the list of silks, but there are several other fab rics in silk or wool that have helped to make this season’s offerings in bathing suits the best within the mem ory of the fashion writer. Last Word in Summer Blouses An elegant blouse of linen, hand em broidered, and an equally smart but less costly model in voile, are among the latest offerings in summer styles. Each of them presents at least one new feature worth consideration, and either of them may be easily made at home. Handkerchief linen in the natural linen color was used for the blouse -at the left of the picture, with a heav ier linen in a medium shade of blue, and embroidery in white, black and Iblue floss appearing in the decoration. This blouse has an open throat and a wide sailor collar with rounded cor Iners, piped with blue. Down each '.side of the front are simulated button holes made of the blue linen, and the embroidery design, in the fashionable Jmode of long stitches, is worked about 'these buttonholes. Oblong buttons are covered at the top with the natural lineD, and the remainder with the blue. The same model is shown in salmon color and retails for some thing over ten dollars. It is style and hand embroidery which enables this linen blouse to jSell for a price four times that of jthe dainty blouse of voile shown 'with it. The voile blouse is in the ,iashionable chartreuse color, and this peculiar green looks unusually well with white linen in a binding on all the frills. In this blouse all the seams are &em8titched with thread in the color f the blouse. The back portion ex Mpds over the shoulders to form a short yoke at the front, and the front pieces are fulled onto this yoke in a hemstitched seam. The long sleeves are shaped into cuffs ending in a frill by rows of hem stitching. There is a high crushed col lar of the voile edged with a scant frill and fastened across the front with a narrow stock of black satin. There are frills graduated in width at each side of the front. White linen strips are used for bindings. This model is a happy choice for a slender fig ure and one of a very few that have been designed with a high collar. The Common Choice. A costume house the other day ad' vertised that it had on exhibition sev enty-live styles of blue suits. Nearly every well-dressed woman starts out in the spring to choose a modish color for her stand-by suit, and nine out of every ten women end by buying soma shade of blue. Rare Color. Rose, coral and many other kindred shades are so soft and becoming that they are worthily popular this spring. The woman who has never tried them should buy a crepe blouse or frock if she would see just how attractive she ia capable of looking. OFFICERS PLEASED IS ACCOMPLISHED Militia of Every State Is Now Ready to Embark For Mexico on Moment’s Notice—Some Interesting Side Lights. » ■ —a BUGLES are sounding In every state In the Union. Bands are playing, and khaki clad men are drilling. The mobilization of the national guard is complete. The men are ready to entrain for the Mexi can border at a moment's notice. The mobilization call found the na tional guard of the United States pre pared. The concentrations were ac complished with speed and dispatch. A few of the companies were lacking in guns and munitions. The men answered the call with marked enthusiasm. While there were a few sad farewells between mothers, wives and sweethearts, optimism was general. Little did one realize that the soldiers were going away for a real US MOBILIZATION WITHOUT out HITCH Men Answered Call With Marked Enthusiasm and All Appeared Anxious to Leave For the Border. * — ■ ==» on that date, giving General Funston twelve new regimental units. Officers say the reorganization can take place on the border without im pairing the efficiency of the force. All the officers necessary for the new regi ments will Ihj drawn from the existing organization, and promotions all along the line will follow. The effect will be to leave the army virtually without second lieutenants, and it is here that the addltiona.l officers provided for un der the bill will be added. There will be many promotions also among the enlisted men. New non commissioned officers will have to be selected In both the old and new regi ments, as It is planned to distribute the seasoned men equally. They will be found in the ranks of the privates, The Fight at Carnzal, Mexico. The seventeen American soldiers, negro troopers of the Tenth cavalry, who were captured in the buttle at Currizal were • lien r rhihuab.ua I City, with Lem II. Spillsbury, a Mor | mon scout, employed by General J. J. j Pershing, and were imprisoned, j Spillsbury said that Captain Charles T. Boyd commanded the Americans and, with Lieutenant Henry It. Adair, was among the killed. I Captain Moore, who was with the American detachment, was wounded in the shoulder, but escaped, i Spillsbury's story as announced by General Jacinto Trevino, commander of the Carranza forces in the north, was to the effect that seventy-six ne groes. comprising Troop II of the Tenth, Captains Boyd and Moore, Lieutennnt Adair and himself, compos ed the American detachment that en countered the Mexicans. Spillsbury said he saw on the field the bodies of Boyd and Adair and at least eleven of the negroes. | Spillsbury’s account follows: t “When we arrived nt Currizal Cap tain Boyd dispatched a courier to the jefe politico of the little village, ad vising him that we were on our way to Villa Ahumada. "After we had waited some time Lieutenant Colonel Rivas came out und warned Captain Boyd that he lmd bet 1 ter turn back. Captain Boyd then ex Photos by American Press Association. SCENES AT CAMP BEEKMAN, NEW YORK, WHERE SOLDIERS MOBI LI2ED, AND SWEETHEARTS AND WIVES SAYING GOODBY TO DEPARTING GUARDSMEN. war. The majority of the men rather looked upon the activity as a vacation and were anxious to see actual service. War department officials who had charge of the mobilization were plainly pleased. They expressed satisfaction at the perfect manner in which all members of the guard gathered at the various concentration camps. No hitches occurred, and every precaution was taken to rush supplies and equip ment to the different units. Several of the regiments were lack ing in certain articles. It was also necessary to examine the physical con dition of the men as fast as they reach ed the different points of concentration. The militia was organized on the twelve division plan prepared by the department and sent forward in prop erly organized units of brigades and divisions whenever circumstances de manded re-enforcement of the border patrol. Approximately 100,000 men are at the disposal of the department under the twelve division plan, with their own Held and brigade commanders properly attached. This plan, which has been the scheme on which the na tional guard has been constructed dur ing the last few years, provides for as sembling of the various units from the several states in twelve regular divi sions. Under it It is possible to ex pand the strength of the militia to nearly 250,000 men on a war footing, and this may be done. Army F.oorgc.nizution. The scheme of reorganization for the regular army under the new army bill has also been announced. It provides for the addition of seven regiments of Infantry, two of cavalry, three of field and heavy artillery and two of engi neers. The act takes effect July 1, and by the plan announced the new regiments composing the first annual Increment of increase will be created and the gap to be filled will be only in the grade of private. An increase In the coast artillery Is also provided for in the net, but so far no arrangements have been mnde for it. The reorganization will be made later, when more attention can be giv en to the coast guard. The state troops are fed according to the allowance provided for the regular soldiers of the United States nrmy. The average daily food each soldier will receive follows: Fourteen ounces of fish. Eighteen ounces of salt beef. Sixteen ounces of fresh beef. One egg. One ounce of coffee. One ounce rice. One ounce potatoes. Two ounces beans and butter. Three ounces sugar. Fourteen ounces commeal. Bread. The New Oath. Under the provisions of the Ilay Chamberlain bill a new oath for mili tiamen is required. Regular army ofli cers expressed deep gratification over 1 the expressed willingness of the men to take the new oath, which is as fol lows: I do hereby acknowledge to have volun tarily enlisted this . day of . 191... as a soldier of the national guard of the United States and of the state of . for the period of three years in service and three years In the reserve, under the conditions prescribed by law, unless sooner discharged by the prop er authorities. And 1 do solemnly swear 1 that I will bear true faith and allegiance ' to the United States of America and to : ; the state of . and that I will serve > [ them honestly and faithfully against all their enemies whomsoever, and that I will i obey the orders of the president of the United States and of the governor of the state of . and the officers appointed over me according to law and the rules and articles of war. (Signed) . Under tills oath the troops can be utilized in any way the president de 1 ulree. plained that he was In pursuit of some bandits who he had heard had looted Santo Domingo and also was bound to . catch a negro deserter who he had heard was In Villa Ahumada. “In reply to this Lieutenant Rivas notified the American that if he at tempted to advance he would have to pass over the dead bodies of the Mexi cans. lie advised Iloyd that he had better not argue the matter. “Rivas returned to the village to re port to his superior officer, General Gomez, who sent out a note Inviting the Americans to enter Carrlzal for a conference. Captain Boyd declined. “On this ground Gomez went out In person and insistently urged the Amer icans to retire, pointing out that his orders from tils superiors necessitated his acting on them without further par ley. General Gomez repeated these words as he walked away. Boyd mere ly answered, ‘All right.’ ” General Trevino's announcement then goes on to quote Spillsbury as saying that after General Gomez had retired to his troops, who were lined up out side the town, Captain Boyd ordered his men to advance, whereupon Spills bury expostulated with him, arguing that a fight was sure to follow. Spillsbury is reported ns saying that Captain Boyd “obstinately seemed to think that the Mexican general was only bluffing,” and the firing quickly began. lie is quoted further “Captain Boyd and Lieutenant Adair fell mortally wounded. Captain Moore was wounded in the shoulder, and im mediately the horses fled with the mounts, leaving behind seventeen ne groes and myself. We were forced to surrender. “I saw the bodies of Boyd and Adair and at least eleven negroes on the field of battle.” Mexican authorities asserted that the prisoners had been well treated en mute to Chihuahua. I The Garden v«a,i. A wall is the finest tiling a man can bring to his entourage. It should be of the same material as the house—stone, or stucco, or btick. or, if the house is of wood, it may be of cobbles, or it may be a graceful lattice, with a hedge planted against it. In old European gardens the wall is never forgotten. It is a part of the general plan, often containing the very house walls, always giving plcturesquencss and privacy. Against it grapevines and small fruits are trained. It forms a shelter and a protection, it makes a home a man’s own, and it Is a convincing argument that it is built for permanency. It is looked upon as a heritage. Walls with green things growing over them and slender gardens of old fash ioned flowers creeping along them are much more interesting than fine gar dens spread open, public park fashion. Who doesn’t thrill at the occasional patch of color seen through a thick hedge, at the adventurous roses that clamber over a high stone wall? There Is always an element of mystery, of re moteness, hanging about a wall of any sort.—"The Honest House,” by Ituby Ross Goodnow and Rayne Adams. Language of the Chest. A doctor hears some curious noises when he places the stethoscope against your chest to test whether you are fit for the army or not. When the lungs are healthy a pleasant breezy sound, soft In tone, is heard as the breath is drawn in and expelled. If the stetho scope conveys to his ear a gurgling or bubbling sound the doctor knows that you are in what is known as the moist stage of bronchitis. In the dry stage of the same complaint the sound is a whistling, wheezy tone. One of the signs of pneumonia is the soft crackling note that comes through the stethoscope. It is not unlike the sound that can be heard when your fin ger and thumb have touched a sticky substance and you first place them to gether and then part them, holding them close to your ear. Doctors occasionally hoar n dripping sound, and that tells them that air and water have got into some part of the chest where they have no right—Pear son's Weekly. Historic Pavia. Much history has been written at the quaint Italian town of Pavia, which is not so well known to the tourist as it should be. For 200 years, until Charle magne overthrew them, it was the cap ital of the Lombard kings, the kings of that one time Teuton tribe of Lon gobardi who conquered I tidy, only to be themselves slowly conquered and become Italians or, more accurately, Romanized. It is they who ruled over this great fertile plain between the Alps and the Apennines. In the church of San Michele kings of Italy were crown ed a thousand years ago. Here two Germans at least—Henry II. (1004) and Frederick Barbarossa (1155)—received upon their brows that “iron crown of the Lombards” which conveyed the sovereignty of Italy.—Argonaut. Stories of “Old Q.” The “wickedness” of “Old Q.” (the Marquis of Queeusberry) has passed into a proverb, but two tales of his other traits may be quoted from Mrs. Jerrold's “The Beaux and the Dan dies.” One is that he “paid a doctor to keep him well, deducting fees when he was ill, and thus when he died left his physician his creditor for £10,000,” and the other that “there was a popular prejudice against drinking milk in Lon don at this time because it was believ ed that the duke bathed each morning In milk, which was subsequently sold to consumers.” The Difference. “Queer, isn't it, what difference un important little things in themselves will make?” “Like what, for instance?” “Like stripes on men’s clothes. It makes all the difference in the world whether they run down or across.”— Detroit Free Tress. Bamboo. The bamboo sometimes grows two feet in twenty-four hours. There are thirty varieties of this tree. The small est is only six inches in height and the largest 150 feet. Just Fits. “The time, the place and the girl are seldom found together.” “That alludes to the hired girl all right. ”—Louisville Courier-Joumal. PRACTICAL HEALTH HINT. Trichinosis The disease known ns trichino sis, which may result from eat ing raw pork, is caused by cer tain round worms called trich inae. These are microscopic in size and infest the ilesh of hogs. Unlike many other infectious diseases, the severity of an at tack of trichinqsis depends upon the number of parasites swal lowed. Large quantities of slightly infected pork must be eaten to produce appreciable ef fects. If severe Illness follows the eating of a small amount of meat the pork must have been heavily infested. To avoid trichinosis no form of pork in the raw state or in dried or smoked sausages and hams should be eaten. All pork used as food should be thoroughly cooked. If this is done the value or wholesomeness of the meat for food purposes is not impair ed by the fact that the parasites were present.