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The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, August 24, 1892, Image 3

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LAND OF THE CZAR.
vwat nvssiA in not no to the.
VKNT A FA MINIS IN 1808.
The Famlnn HunYrera Have lie-
colved 9:lftO,O00,OO0 Wonderful
Irlvate Qlits of the Noble
k Peculiarities ol the Pcoplo.
JSftJ HE reports which are
receive tiauj uere
from the famine dls-
1 trlcts, aayt Frank G.
Cnrnontcr In a Bt.
Petersburg letter to
the Wellington Star,
are very encouraging,
ami though the fam
ine in atlil raging, the
tlflrklinnn nf ttin .In.
mmi of Russian star-
L. Tat inn will, it is be-
,! lieved, bo broken by
the llrst ol Septem
her, when the har
vest will have been
gathered. Great want and much suffer
ing, however, must continue to exist for
tlie next renr or to in ninny of tho
fitates, anl tho drought may preclpl
lata a lecond iamino equally as tcrrl
l)lo ni the present one. Notwith
standing all that has been published
concerning tho famine, we in the Unit
ed States have but little idea of Iti
terrible extent mid of the wonderful
manner lu which tho l!usinna havo
bandied it. No country in tho world,
with perhaps tho exception of tho
United States, could withstand auch a
strain aa Russia la now undergoing, and
there la no Nation in the world, except
Ill'SSIAX
perhaps one, that would riso to tho
emergency and do so much for ita peo
ple aa Russia ia doing. The contribu
tions America has made have been of
great good, and they are most thank
fully, and, I might also say, tearfully re
ceived, but they are only a drop in tho
bucket to what Russia herself is doing.
Our and other outside gifts amount, all
told, to perhaps three-quarters of a
tnillion dollars. The donations of the
Government and tho people represent
in the neighborhood of $350,001),.
O00, and the Czar himself has
given about ten million dollars out
of his privato fund. Tiie Govern
ment loans to the famine villages amount
"to more than one hundred million dol
lars, and these loans uo one ever expects
that the peasants will repay. It is a
physical impossibility for them to do to,
and, as one of the thiol officials of the
sQovcrnmont said to mo latterly, the Czar
sdoet not expect repayment, lie always
ivet a present to the people upon certain
occasions, tuch as the coronation of a
grand duke, and at the next event one of
his presents will probably be the forgiv
ing of this debt. This one hundred mil
lion dollars was given almost outright by
the Government, but in addiion to it
numerous schemes have beeu favored and
authorized by the Czar to get money for
the sufferers, and the bulk of the gifts
iave come from the people.
Consul General Crawford estimates
that tho gifts of private citizens in Russia
to this famine have been not less than
350,000,001) roubles or the enormous
sum of 1175,000,000. The gifts almost
urpiss comprehension, and all told, not
withstanding the vast population of
Cussia, they amount, including those of
riASAirr woman.
the Government, to 13 for each man,
woman and child in the whole Russian
Umpire, or to 15 per family. When you
r mat oi we iwanir oaa nuiuou
families that make tip the Ituaatan
people not many more than one million
of them probably hat ever had $15 at
one time in its possession you get some
idea or trie mighty strain this bat been
on tboae who could give and have given.
The nobilitv have in all cases led the Hat,
and hundreds of well-educated girls and
women of the beat families of this and
other Russian citfea are now In the famine
districts fighting the demons of ttarva
tlnn, typhus fever and the smallpox in
behalf of tho peasants. A number of
these ladies have caught the diseases of
the peasant!, anil a Husalan countess who
went from St. Petersburg was among
those who took the smallpox. Almost
all of thn great landed proprietors in the
famine districts are doing what they can
to help their people. I hear of men who
havo been feeding and cariug for five,
ten and in some cases even twenty and
twenty-five thousand peasants, and Count
ISobrinsky, who ia at the head of the
transportation of fainlno relief here, Is,
in connection with his family, support
ing nearly thirty thousand people out of
his own means, and at the same time aid
In In the distribution of the foreign
and Government relief fund amoug the
people outside of his estntca.
This relief work is not done spasmod
ically nor without system. There ia a
thorough organization, and as good
brains as you will Mud anywhere in the
woi Id aro managing It. Tho peasants
themselves are like children, and they
require tho advice and the care of chil
dren. These people of Russia of the
highest classes go and stay with them.
They viait them in their huts, take care
of the sick for there are but few doc
torsand nurse them. With then, is the
Kusslan Ited Orosa which has raised
about t3.",0"U,0U0 for the sufferers, and
FARMERS.
which works, as do nil ontsido institu
tions, directly under tho Government.
The Government of Russia it planning
great works to provent the recurrence of
tuch a condition as now exists. A fund
of $10,000,000 has been set asido to
build elevators and places for the stor
age of grain in all of the various districts,
aud through our Consul General, Dr.
John M. Crawford, tho Interior Depart
ment has investigated our system of crop
reports and has just now decided to
adopt this system for Russia. Socretary
Rusic forwardod full information and
from now on the tame organized system
that we have constructed will be in
force here. Heretofore Russia bus had
no agricultural statistics and the peas
ant have lived frjna hand to mouth.
They are not economical or thrifty nor
accumulative in our sense of the word,
and it requires a study of their character
and their condition to understand the
situation.
No one who visits Russia can be un
impressed with the strength of character
seen in the facet of the people. X tirst
stw these Russian peasants at Jerusalem
about four years ago. It wot at Easter
time, and they bad come by the thou
sands on pilgrimage to the holy eput
cher, and of the polyglot humanity which
wot gathered there from the four quar
ters of the world there were none to
strong In feature and in frame at these
Slavs. I see here every day walking the
streets of St. Petersburg with bundles on
their backs, driving cabs or droschkiet
and working on the streets, men whose
nobility and strength of features would
create remark in the American crowd,
and at every corner you meet men whose
facet are tuch that you would be proud
to acknowledge them if you found them
amonar vour ancestral Dortraltl. Their
forebeadt are high and broad, their eye
ttralaht, honest and kindly. Their note
A DltOSCBKY DRIVER.
are targe and clean cut, and their cheek
bones often rather prominent. Nearly
all are bearded and many are long-haired
and part their hair in the middle. Their
frames are at strong as their faces. They
are big-boned, well-joined race, and
they look at though they were made to
HOWIHrt TUB SEED.
ttny. The women are of the tame char
acter as tho men. They are not hand
some nor pretty, but they look kind and
motherly and what we would call fine
looking. They lack taste in dress, have no
ideas of the hnrmnnv of colora, and wear
I mean the peasants handkerchiefs
of all brightest colors of the rainbow
upon their beads. Their .Irenes are of
red, blue or other gav colors, anil they
are gathered in at the neck and waist,
ami fall to tho feet in ungraceful folds.
They are sturdy of frame and rather dull
and quiet in manner. Tney do as much
work as the men, and the meu and
women work in tho fields side by slilo.
Tho mon nf tho lower classes, as I see
them here, aro more picturesque in their
dress than tho women. Russia is the
land of the cap, the lung coat and the
top boots', and the peasants wear couts of
homespun, with locg trucks, and even
such as dress in sheepskins, with the fur
turned in, have their coats reaching to
below tho knees. Hero in St. Peters
burg I seo few without overcoats, but
further aoutli the peasant man's dress is
of red calico, shirt and pantaloons, the
shirt coming outsido the pants an I
belted at the waist, and his foet are cov
ered with a aort of coarsely woven atraw
ahocaud his ankles are swadllcd in rags.
The better class of poor people or the
ordinarily well-to-do men hero wear
long coats, with top bo its, and tho Na
tional cap is woin by nearly every
one. This ia to a large extent the
costume of the rich, though the wealthy
all over tho civiliiod world dross much
the same as we do. Tho diiljrcncu here
is largely iu the quality of goods woru,
and St. Petersburg may bo said to bu a
city where the people wear ulsters, ci
and high boots the year round, no mat
ter whether it be as hot as Tnphet or as
cold as Alaska. These Russian boots
are worth looking at. They aro about
the only cheap thing in Russia, and you
can get a pair uiudo to order for llvu
dollars. I he same leathor and the sa no
work in the United States would cost
you twenty-live dollars, and the finish of
tho host leathor is as tine at that of a
portfolio or pocket book. Thosu boots
reach to the knees, and tho bast of them
shine liko patent leather. The panta
loons are always tucked inside of them
nnd theie is a fancy section about tix
inches wide above the anklo of every
boot, in which the leather lios iu
wrinkles with the regularity of a wash
board. It takes at least twice as much
leather to make a p tir of Russian boots
as it does an American pair, aid the
same may be said ol tho Rusiiau over
coat. The uroschky drivers wear moro
cloth than any other cabmen the world
over. It takes more of good cloth for
tho blue goods they wear seem to bo of ex
cellent material to mako a droschky
driver's coat ttaa to rua.ie a ladies'
trained ball dress, and this coat has to be
padded and quilted. This coat hui long
skirts, and it is made very largo so that
the cabby can stutl bit bodv ouc, and
especially bis back, to give himself the
appearance of prosperous fatness. Nine-
teuths of tueso drivers aro pauueu in tuts
way, and no well-to-do man would own
leau coachman. Lieutenant Alloa, the
military attache of our legation here,
told me yesterday that his coachman ap
peared to be of dime-museum fatness
when be engaged him, and that ho tup
posed bis great frame was that of nature,
until one day he met him before he had
put in his pads nnd he was as thin at a
rail and looked so dillerent that it was
some time before he knew him.
Sptaking of Russian caps, the officers
whom you see here by the thousand all
wear them, and the most o: the soldiers
have capt as a part of their uniform.
Every servant or messenger wears a cap
and the boys from tne age of four wear
long visored caps aud little overcoats
just like their fathers, Even the little
girl wear caps, and the favorite head
covering of the little maidens of from
two to six or seven years, whom I see
running about with their nurses in the
parks, it a jockey cap of the brightest
red, blue, yellow or greeu tilk. The
color of the capt of the meu are usually
dark, though they are trimmed with all
shades of borders and bauds, and each
color denotea tomethiug. The police
men, as a rulo, have red bands about
their caps. Some of the private soldiers
wear caps of white. Other wear capt
like Tain O Shaater, and ttio cavalry
have as many dillerent kinds of headgear
at the Infantry. Some officers have
green bands about their capt and othort
blue, and in thort there It every possible
cap combination from the thaggy fur of
the peasant from the wild 'Of north
Russia to the brlmlei astrakhan, which,
with it red silk crown, cover the head
of the cartridge breasted Caucaasiau
soldier. The overcoat of the people
from the different parte of the country
are also different, and the officers wear
coat of different color and of different
grade of length, ranging from the feet
to the top of the boot in lize. All told
the dress of the men it the most
picturesque one of Europe, and the
crowds which throng the ttreett of St.
Petersburg are like those of no other
capital of the world. The men are
naturally large and line looking. These
long Ulster make them look bigger, and
the general effect produced is that of a
Nation of giants.
Milking by Machinery.
Numerous arrangements have best: ui
posted for lessoning the labor of milking,
but the latest product of Inventive genius
in this direction Is shown In the accom-
panyinr illustration. The device was
shown in operation at the recent Agri.
cultural Show held in England, where
it attracted considerable attention on ac
count of ita novel features.
In this machine all four of tho tests
are milked simultaneously by two pairs
of elastic ami feathering rollor segmeuts,
having rocking, aniiroschln ami reced
ing movements. The teats are squeezed
from the upper ends down to the bot
tom and while one pair of rollers ap
proach each other, squeezing the teats
on the right side, the pair on the left
side rece le.
Tho machine rests In a self-adjusting
frame, suspendod on the cow, and is not
affected by any movements that may be
ma le by the animal during the milking.
The operator turns a handle situated at
arm's length from tho right side of tho
cow, and connecto 1 with the main shaft
by a flat link chain. The milk flows
through a funnel into the millc-can, and
the operator is thus able to seo wnon the
cow is milked clean that is. wheu no
more milk Mows. It is claim') 1 tuat t in
machine willma'te milkin acletner nn I
easier work, and, as it does not require
any special training, any person will bi
able, after a little practice, to milk a
laruo number of cows quicker aid bettor
tnan trained milker by hand. From
practical experiment, covs appear u Ilka
the process, and keep perfectly quiet
during tho operation. St. Liuis il-'pu j.
lie.
A Jelly Palnco for tho World's Fair.
The women of California are going to
build a jolly palace at the fair not a
shivering, unsteady structure li!;e a new
custard pie, but a solid building, with
sides of glasses full of jolly, says the
Chicago Time!. Tlieso glasses will be
of transparent and of rainbow hues.'
The building will be thirty-ono feet
high, surmounted by a glass bull, tw.t
fees in diamo'.er, full of jelly. The four
TUB JKM.T PAT.ACE.
arched entrance will form u surine
twelve foet square. The fra na oi the
structuro will be the lightest possible
steel. It will cirry pla'.o gWss shelves
it entire height. Oa these shelves the
bottles contains jelly of every olor will
be arranged. So na of them will be sec
upright and others horizontally, accord
ing ta the ellects to be proliuol. in
the decoration of this novel palace 2311
glasses, 2, iucUes iu diameter, will bo
used; tfoo four inches in diauuter, and
1018 of assorted sizos, making a toul of
4U8S.
The women estimate that this pntaco
will cost $2100, of which $10JJ will be
for the steel frame.
Elizabeth Wore an Amulet.
Queen Elizabeth, during her last Ill
ness, wore around her neck a charm made
of gold which had been bequeathed her
by an old woman in Wales wno aeclarei
that so long a the queen wore It the
would never be ill. The amulet, as was
generally the case, proved of no avail;
and Elizabeth, notwithstanding her faith
In the cburm, not ouly sickened, but
died. During the plague in London,
people wore amulets to keep oil the dread
destroyer. Amulets of arsenio wc re worn
near the heart. Quills of quick silver
were hung around the neck, and alto the
powder of toads. Detroit r ree Press.
"A Swell Tura Out."
Lift.
ft U ITV
r 7 IB t v r.
1M
ill n rirrr-
i i r i
THE REALM OF FASHION
WHAT TO Wit All AND HOW THET
HAH IT.
Fashion I About to Kebel Against tht
Btrsst Sw spine Trail.
OOI) taste It so strongly
In revolt against the
nasty style of wearing
a train upon street
dresses that although
women are very tub
missive to the orders of
costume designers, it is
quite likely that the
decree will soon go fortli
from noriul leaders that
bell skirts must be the
only wear and tliey
must absolutely clear
the ground.
The season is now too far advanred for
(he introduction of any novelties. The
summer girl must be content with the
plcturevuo effects which she can attain by
the use of wide folded sashes, Swiss belts
Slid deep corselets. It Is usual to have the
Alt KXQt'lSITR I.1DOO TOII.KT.
sash or corselet match the skirt. The wis
maiden will be careful how she wears a
blouse finished In sailor style with singlet.
Only a very shapely and smooth white neck
can stand such a garment. Hhe had better
make choice of a style less trying, say cor
selet, belt and co'lar to match, covered with
lace. For instance, take the charming
blouse pictured In my Initial, the material
being a striped and dotted satin inerveilleux,
trimmed with crocheted laco of an ecru
tone. This blouse should be made up over
a titled lining, the latter being cut away
under the lace yoke.
You can't net a prettier gown for this
time of the year than a crepnn. For a young
lady, a pink tone, if becoming, may b
charmingly set off by the string-colored
Irish lace now so much In vogue; the skirt
being finished with a silk ruche.
Tnit DANCING FAD.
It is wonderful what a hold white has on
popularity, so much so thut many women
wfur it who should leave It severely alone,
White is a most try in color, not only for
the complexion, but for the figure; and yet
when you do sea the best figure for a white
gown, I'.umf : tall and slender, wearing t
white foula ! trimmed with fichu and
epaulets of Uce, you can't help being do
lighted with it. It makes an ensembio ci'
such charming purity and perfection.
The exquisite indoor toilel shown in tht
picture U in omp idour foulard, made
princess. The bottom of the skirt has a
flounce of the material box-pleated and
covered, with lace headed by a narrow
pleated silk band with bows set as indicated,
they being triuur.ed with lace. The bodies
is covered with luce which forms very small
basques. There is a draped ell'ect in foulard
on the corsage and riboon braces.
Already plans ure maturing as to what w
shall do this winter. What uovelties shall
we have. Whut will be the latent fud, the
newest sensatWu? As you have doubtless
Xuird. we have taken to skirt dancing. I
uun't lueun that sVirt dancing hat super
Vied the waltz or even the luncers, but that
certain fashionable ladies have discovered
that they can do a skirt dance quite at wel'
at the professionals, and they take the op
pr ftimity offered by private theatricals and
tnine entertainments to exhibit their grace-
flues. 1 ha"'" ' ' wever, tlmou
young married ladles or even our single
ones will take up skirt-dancing seriously.
They will most probably let the children
have the monopoly. Anyway, it will be a
pleasant diversion for little maids, and In
some casrs quite worth seeing, for children
take to dancing very naturally, their
(lender, lithe figure tilting them particular
ly well for it. In the illustration is present
ed a spirited sketch of a skirt dancer. Of
course much depends upon the costume
nd upon tb colored light thrown upon
the performer. Tb accordion skirt ha
usually been mad u of for parlor nUr
M
1P
mm. V. . 4 .
KliW4ffsAt,i. 12 2zr. m
FOR A OAM1E PARTT.
laininents, but whatever style of skirt I
chosen the greatest care should be taken in
the selections and make-up for the under
skirts. They should be filmy and delicate
and clinging, following the motion of the
limbs like white crested wave.
The illustration represents a very charm
ing gown in gaufred crepe in a shade of
heliotros, the stripes being velvety and
reddish brown. The yoke is of gulpufo Of
old luce color, embroidered with gold. TheT
dress must be lined with changeable taffeta
and there must be a balayeuae. The corsage
hooks at the back. This is a very original
and striking gown, but to bring out all ' It
possibilities the draping must be artistically
, done, making use of a dress form for that
purpose.
White Is everywhere and especially with
variations in ecru and creamy tone. Af
for the rage In scarlet and crimson which
was predicted early in the season on ac
count of their success In the old world, it
has not come, the reason no donbt being
that with our almost trnphicul sun, the glare
would be too trying, both to the wearer and
the looker-on.
A very piquant toilet for a garden party i
the one shown in the picture, the material
being white foulard set off with a lac
bertha. Above the latter there is a yoke of
pleated lace. There is a garniture about
the sleeves which would be very becoming
A CALMNO COSTCM.
to some young girls. The belt and the bot
tom of the skirt are trimmed with whit
velvet ribbon. This make-up could be ap
plied to many other materials; for instance,
to a stamped veiling, blue ground with
white flowerets, and trimmed with white
lace.
The woman of fashion Is no doubt regret
ting that she can't make her sleeves so wide
that she would require a seat in the cars all
a pKi.Trr aow!.
to herself. There is no telling what width
sleeves will attain by the end of the season.
It is the only portion of her costume that
admits of exai?gerat:-d size, and she is deter
mined to make the most of it. Hats, too,
will increase their proportions a summer
draws to a close, and the dahlias, peonies,
ho! v hocks and August flowers will come in
for their brief day of favor, only to give '
pluce to fruit and grain during the supple
mental season, which has now become the
thing to puss in quiet mountain towns so
that the devotee of fashion may recover
from the strain and drag of the season be
fore she goes back to town.
The illustration shows a charming call
ing costume in pink silk or crepon with a
guipure plastron, having the form of a yoke
fiont and back. The crossed ribbons meet
at a point iu the buck. There is a ribbon
braceK t at the elbow and deep lace cuffs.
The plastron should be gathered oa
itriipbt collar.
Bstallatloa on Canada.
In accordance with tho recent act of Con
gress President Harrison on Saturday issued
a proclamation imposing a tax of 20 cent a
ton on all freight of whatever kind passisig
through theSault 8te. Marie canal. Tbi
tax will be continued until the Canadian
government makes the tolls for the Wetland
canal the same on American as upon Cana
dian freight. The Canadian ' government
had decided that the rebate of W cent a
ton shad be repaid on Canadian freight un
til the fad of the ceaaon.

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