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Throutu Becomingly Dressed.
While ldgh straight collars are the feature of the hour, Parisiennes do not suffer by them without looking into some pretty ways of obviating their unbecomingness. To soften them with little devices is the Parisienne's first thought. One pretty scheme for tak ing the stiff, straight appearance away is by little clusters of velvet ribbon each side, toward the front. The Newest Thing In T.ace. . * Among: luces the newest color Is n deep, almost .yellow, cream. It com t l ines most exquisitely with gray, pink 1 or blue. There is no end to the motifs / *of these laces as a garniture. They arc used in insertions, in Bouncings and again in medallions or in elaborate designs applied to the whole skirt. With the heavy Russian lace a wide flaring border to the skirt Is especially effective. ' Hairpin Utcnlvpr, A pretty hairpin receiver can be made, by crocheting a centre of wool and surrounding it with a puff of silk, suspending the whole by n ribbon. Filet is the latest bit of needlework. With it is fashioned bureau covers, pillow shams, bedroom sets and many other dainty pieces. The plain filet net is procured and then embroidered In any pattern that may suit her fancy. A rather heavy thread Is used for the work, nnd the result is a very smart piece of needlework. l'rrttv Kimono t'ftr iho Uoby. The pretty "Marguerites," as the dainty babies' klmonas arc called which busied so many feminine fingers on hotel verandas last summer, have appeared in the infants' departments In a variety of styles. One of the simplest to make is fashioned from a circle of white cashmere, nun's veiling or albatross cloth, cut tweuty inches in diameter. To make one, cut from the middle of the big round a little circle four Inches in diameter for the nock and slash one fold from the top to bottom for the front opening. Then fold the circles together nnd crease into eight sections. Through the third crease from the front nnd the second from the back cut slashes on each side about three and n half inches deep from the bottom. These are for l sleeves. Catch together the two open * sides of the middle section on each side for the sleeve, and also draw the two open sides umler it together for the under arm seam, nnd the shape of the little garment is complete. A lining of China silk in white or pale blue or pink Is usually used, nnd all of the edges are finished with a bind ing of wash ribbon, n silk crocheted border or a buttonhole stitched scal lop. Fagoting or French knots may also contribute to the ornament. The sleeves and under arm pieces are tied together with bows of wash ribbon, which is also used io fasten the sacquo at the front. A charming little kl mona is made in a similar fashion of a square of cloth, the corners forming hack, front and sleeves.—New York Sun. Good Form in Dress. The young girls who arrive in troops <to "receive" at the coming-out "tea" of a debutante friend invariably wear white frocks, with the bodice cut high and with long sleeves. Swathed to the throat and wrist are they in fine French muslin, chiffon or openwork embroideries. You no longer see a single young girl receiving at an after noon reception with her frock cut out at the throat. The low bodice has com pletely vanished from our drawing rooms before dinner, and we now copy the customs of English cousins who used to look astonishment at the deml tollet and low-cut bodices once worn by American girls at afternoon teas. It is quite true that the young girls have left in the dressing room a parcel or suit case, containing a low evening bodice, but it will not be assumed until toward 8 o'clock. White frocks, cut high and long and buttoned In the hack, are the regulation wear this season. It is certainly the most ap propriate dress for a young girl. 1 1 . After the tea is over and the last guests have taken their departure a dinner or a dinner dance is usually forthcoming to refresh the girls after their arduous labors. A group of fa vored young men will assemble at the hour duly announced. Meantime the flock of white dove debutantes fly to the dressing robm and put on their evening waists, usually a little cut out about the throat. The dceolletage is often filled In with transparent lace yokes. A corsage cut out "a la Vierge" Is a favorite decolletage. Lace sleeves, elbow puffs and a lace "top" to the gown frequently adorn the low bodice. —Philadelphia Record. The Important Art of Manicure. Much has been said about the art J of manicure, but few girls out of their *• scanty pocket-money can afford the fee of a professional manicure. How ever, a girl with a steady and light hand, after a little practice, can mani cure as well as most professionals. For the result to be satisfactory the nails should he well nnd carefully manicured at least once a week, and should be polished dally. Here Is a list of necessary instruments: Polisher, cuticle knife, cuticle eels- sors, nail, scissors. Ivory nail presser, steel file,-emery boards, orange wood sticks, nail paste, nail powder and cleansing fluid. A manicure case is a very expensive article Indeed to buy —that Is, one properly stocked with good instruments; however, all instru ments can be bought separately, which will be found far more satisfactory than purchasing a cheap manicure case. 1. Cut the nails the shape desired, file them carefully with a steel file, and then with an emery board, using the coarse side; now give a few down ward strokes to the extreme edge of the nails with the fine side of the emery board. This removes any un evenness that may have been caused by the use of the steel file. 2. Immerse both hands in a warm soapy lather for a few minutes; dry, then gently loosen, with a cuticle knife, the cuticle adhering to the nail; should this be long or ragged, trim carefully with the cuticle scissors. 3. Dip an orange wood stick into the cleansing fluid nnd moisten round and underneath the auticle; this fluid re moves all stains from the nails or finger tips, 4. Use the ivory presser, beginning at the edge of the nail and working round, carefully pressing back the skin. 5. Apply a little paste to each nail, and on this dust a little powder; polish lightly and quickly; apply more powder, and rcpollsh. Great care must be taken in using the cuticle knife, as one is apt to injure the enamel, especially when operating on the nails of the right hand.—New York News. [Kip&j] WHEN $ uwZm, -mr M In some New Zealand towns there are more women voters than men. The Empress Dowager of China is building her own tomb, as did Mme. Calve some time ago. The American National Red Cross Society, meeting at Washington, D. C., has elected Miss Clara Barton its presi dent for life. The Dowager Duchess of Abercorn is the "Graud Old Woman" of Eng land's peerage. She is over ninety and has a son of sixty-four. Wyoming now has two women as justices of the peace. Sirs. Maggie 11. Gillespie, of Lookout Station, was re cently elected in Albany County on the Democratic ticket. With Filipluo women it is tile custom to starch everything white, and a nurse who has recently returned from Man illa describes the first sheets laundered for the hospital as "fearful and won derful." The globe-trotting fever has laid hold of a rich Chinese woman, named Che ong Cliuk ICwan, who is preparing for a tour round the world. She is well educated, speaks English, and having progressive ideas, is determined to see for herself how the people of other lands live and act. The variety of ways in which women earn livelihoods are indeed many, says an exchange. One woman folds circu lars and addresses wrappers in the daytime in an ottice and furnishes a night force in the same building with bottled milk. She buys a dozen bottles at a time nnd makes a cent and a half on each one. Negotiations are under way looking to tlie purchase of the birthplace of Maria Mitchell, the astronomer, in Nantucket, by members of the faculty of Vassar College. If the negotiations are successful the Nantucket Maria Mitchell Association will be formed to preserve this historical landmark in the interest of Vassar College. The long drooping shoulder effect is one of the most marked fashion effects. Artificial flowers are having quite an extended revival for adorning evening gowns. Birds or breasts of iridescent colors are most favored for trimming the tailored bat. A very long, narrow point In front is a novelty observed upon the bodices of recently imported French ball gowns. The loose, half-fitting coats la mode this winter are admirably adapted for the elaborately trimmed waists worn under them. Black nnd white relieved by touches of pale blue is one of the season's popular combinations in handsome tailor gowns. Madame la Mode seems to devote all her energy to the elaboration and va riety of design on the centre of the backs of fashionable girdles. A long and elegant coat of black vel vet is lined with heavy, quilted white satin, and ornamented with medallions of one of the heavy white lacej The deep silk and jet fringes that have been so much talked of by the trimming houses nnd the dressmakers this season are being lavishly used. A handsome cloak for a girl of four teen is of dark blue cloth, the back half fitting, the front double-breasted, with two rows of large buttons. The round collnr is of cloth, edged with velvet, and appllqued with cream laqe, and finished with long tnCfeta ties. A nice little afternoon dress for a girl of ten or twelve Is of dark blue broadcloth, with two bias ruillcs, and vest and yoke of white gros grain. Around the full part of the sleeve, nbove the cuff, and at other points on the frock, run cords of two-toned vel vet, between which are little embroid ered silk dots. sAFFA!RS To Clean Cashmere. Wash cashmere in good hot suds in which a little borax has been dissolved. Rinse in strong blue water. Do not wring it, but hnng up dripping, and then iron while damp. If this is done the material will look like new. Tahlo Decorations. The opergne is once more in favor. For several years past table decora tions have been so low that the epergne has been relegated to the back of the silver closet. Now the pendu lum has swung to the other extreme, high table decorations are popular. WR.TS of Testing Flour. Look at its color. (1.) If It is white, With a slightly yellowish, or straw, color, that is a good sign. If it is very white, with a bluish cast, or with black specks in it, the flour is not good. (2.) Examine its adhesiveness. Wet and knead a little of it between the fingers; if it works dry and clastic it is good; if it works soft and sticky It is poor. Flour made from spring wheat is likely to be sticky. (3.) Throw a little lump of dry flour against a dry, smooth, perpendicular surface. If it adhere in a lump, the flour has life in it; If it falls like powder, it It had. (4.) Squeeze some of the flour in the hand; if it retains the shape given by the pressure, that, too, is a good sign. Flour that will stand all these tests is safe to try. They are simple, rough and ready methods adopted by old flour dealers.—Amer ican Queen. Laundry Hints. Wash day is the bete noir of many a household. There is really no reason why it should be. The results of the day make everyone sweeter, neater and cleaner. Here are a few sugges tions that will make the day easier and happier. Fine clothes need no rubbing. They should first be wrung but of cold water and then boiled fifteen minutes in water In which plenty of sonp has been dissolved. Two rinsings should make them pure and white. Clothes look better from which the water is dripping when hung upon the line than those which have been tightly wrung. When clothes are very soiled the spots should be rubbed with a flbro bristle brush. An excellent washing fluid is made by adding to the water in the boiler one tablespoonful of spirits of turpen tine and one tablespoon!'nl of am monia. In washing curtains ]iut them in the tub and wet them with coal oil. Then pour hot suds upon them. They should be drawn many times through the fingers to strip them of dirt and then rinsed twice. Ginghams soaked in salt water will not fade. Silk handkerchiefs should be washed alone in luke-wnrm water and rinsed three times in cold water. Then blue them and iron them before they are dry. Dainty doilies, tray cloths and cen tre-pieces should bo washed with ens tlle soap. Always iron them on the Wrong side. at,3^9 P Ps" Es " | Cheese Toast—Cut stale bread in thin slices; dry and toast a golden brown; spread with butter and sprinkle thickly with grated cheese; dust with paprika; lay in a dripping pan and place in a hot oven until the cheese melts. Cream Pudding—Put three cupfuls of milk into the double boiler; beat four eggs; rub half a cupful of flour in one cup of cold milk; add to it the scalded milk; when it thickens add the eggs and cook five minutes; add half teaspoonful of salt and pour Into a dish; sprinkle one cup of sugar over the top and pour over any fruit juice; serve cold. Oyster Rarebit Cut off the mus cle from one cup of oysters; put them in the chafing dish in their own liquor until the edges curl; then turn them into a hot bowl; put in the chafing dish one tablespoon of butter, half a pound of cheese, grated, a pinch each of salt, paprika and mustard; beat two eggs slightly, add the oyster liquor, and when the cheese is melted add this gradually, then add the oysters, and when scald ing hot pour over hot toast. Rice Waffles—To two cupfuls of cold boiled rice add two cupfuls of sifted flour; beat two eggs; add to them one cupful of milk; pour this over the rice and flour and beat well; then add one tnblespoonful of butter melted and two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one teaspoonful of salt; bake on a hot waffle iron; sour milk may be used instead of all sweet milk; in that case omit baking powder and use half sweet and half sour milk and one teaspoonful of soda. ~Egglcss Cookies—Take two-thirds of a cup of melted butter (not oily, one and one-half cups of sour (not too thick) cream, two cups of sugar, a pinch of soda and enough flour to roll out easily. Stir the butter and cream together, then add the sugar and beat well. Add the soda to the flour and mix into a smooth dough, roll out, cut and bake In a quick oven. Keep all the materials as cold as pos sible while mixing, rolling and cutting, and the cakes will require less flour and be very much nicer and crlsper. HEALTHY WO MEN Praise Pe-ru-na as a Cure for Golds and a Preventive of Catarrh. MRS. M.J. BRINK FIRST STAGE OF CATARRH. A Serious Mistake Which Thou sands Are Making. The first stage of catarrh iB what is commonly known as "catching cold." It may be in the head, nose, throat or lungs. Its beginning is sometimes so severe as to cause a chill and considerable fever, or it may be so slight as to not hinder a person from his usual business. In perhaps a majority of cases little or no attention is paid to the first stage of catarrh, and hence it is that nearly one-half of the peo ple have chronic catarrh in some form. To neglect a cold is to invite chronic catarrh. As soon as any one discovers the first symptoms of catching cold he should at once begin the use of Pernna according to directions on the bottle, EXPENSIVE AUTOMOBILING. Owning a Horseless Carriage Is Not a Poor Man's Sport. If a man's horse should cost more for veterinary fees that for oats, that man would begin to scratch his head and wonder if he wouldn't better sell the animal and charter a special train or some other cheaper mode of travel, particularly if oats were expensive, and the horse's original cost had been several thousand dollars, not to men tion the slight fact that the horse was given to periodical runnings away, adding heavy damages to his owner's liabilities. And if in these little ses sions of capering over the prostrate heads of a frightened populace he should kill or maim for life a few citi zens, there naturally would be still greater doubt in the owner's mind as to the advisability of keeping so trou blesome a carrier. Yet that is the pro cise situation of the fast speed auto mobilist. The wear and tear on the tires of a heavy automobile is reck oned by experts to be equal to four or Ave cents per mile, which is more than the fuel to run it costs. Then the fines for exceeding the speed limit muse be added to the damages for ac cidents, caused by runaways of fright ened horses, or, worse still, the runa ways and explosions of the machines themselves. Taken altogether, it would seem to an onlooker who hadn't yet caught autocitis that Pucks' hill-old exclamation might be apropos—"What fools these mortals be!" Water Before Meals. While the general opinion of those supposed to be authorities on the mat ter has been that the habit of drinking water at meals is a deleterious one, it is now stated, according to recent in vestigations, that a little water, if not too cold, is beneficial, as it assists in the digestion of food. A too copious supply of water dilutes the gastric juice, and if too cold lowers the tem perature of the stomach below normal, thus Impairing digestion. If, however, water is taken in limited quantities the gastric Juice on food will be wash ed aside, thereby facilitating absorp tion. By this means the undigested food is laid bare and is more suscepti ble to further action of the gastric Juice. During the period of rest phlegm, being very tenacious, pre vents the free flow of gastric Juice for some time, hence delays digestion. A drink of water before meals is recom mended, because It loosens and waFhes away this deposit of mucus, thereby permitting the gastric juice to attack the food as. ft enters the stomach. Slept Soundly. Paul Kruger, in his memoirs, tells the story of a secretary whom he punished for being drunk by tying him to a wagon wheel. During the night 3,000 Kaffirs and about 4,000 Zulus attacked the Boer camp and were not driven off till daylight. The secretary slept so soundly that ho noticed nothing of the fight, and the next day. when he at last awoke, he looked around in astonishment and asiked: "Have you people been fight ing during the night?" -o —c and the cold is sure to pass away without leaving any bad effects. Unless this is done the cold is al most sure to end in the second stage of catarrh, which is making so many lives miserable. If Peruna was taken every time one has a cold or cough, chronic catarrh would be practically an un known disease. Miss Elizabeth Über, No. 57 Bossett street, Albany, N. Y., writes: "I have always dreaded unsettled weather because of my extreme liabil ity to catch cold, when a catarrhal trouble would quickly develop through my entire system, which it would take weeks to drive away. I am thankful to say that since I have taken PE RUNA I do not have any reason to dread this any more. If I have been at all exposed to the damp,wet or cold weather, I take a dose or two of PE RUNA, and it throws out anv hint of sicknesfl from my system. —Miss Elizabeth Über. Mrs. M. J. Brink. No. 820 Michigan ave nue, St. Joseph, Mich., writes: "This past winter during the wet and cold weather I caught a sudden and severe cold, which developed a catarrhal condition through my entire system, and so affected my general health that I was completely broken down, and became nervous and hysterical and unfit to supervise my home. My physician prescribed tor me, but some how his medicine did me no good. Read ing of PERUNA 1 decided to try it. Af ter I had taken but three bottles I found myself in fine health."—Mrs. M. J. Brink. Sibyl A. Hadlcy, 20 Main street, Hunt ington, lnd., writes: "Last winter after ! getting my feet wet I began to cough, which gradually grew worse until my throat was sore and raw. Ordinary reme dies did not help me and cough remedies nauseated me. Reading an advertisement The First Newspaper. There has been considerable contro versy of late years as to which country should be conceded the honor of print ing the first regular newspaper. Claims have been successively put forward for Italy, France, Germany, England and Holland, and all with some degree of plausibility, but it appears from recent researches that neither one of these is entitled to the distinction, and that precedence should be given to Belgium. It has been established by the antiquaries that a certain Abra ham Ver.hoeven, of Antwerp, obtained from the Archduke and Duchess Al bert and Isabelle the privilege of print ing a news sheet. As the first German paper appeared in 1615 at Frankfort, the first Dutch paper in IGI7, the first English paper, the Weekly Gazette, in 1622. and the first French paper in 1631, it would seem that Antwerp's claims have some foundation, and that the Belgian city initiated what has be come one of the most influential fac tors in modern life and progress. On the strength of this- it Is proposed to hold a groat tercentenary celebration in Antwerp some time during the year 1905. New Chinese Minister. Although the diplomatic circles at Washington lost a treasure In Wu- Ting-Fang, the late Chinese Minister, his place is likely to be well filled by his successor. Sir Liang-Cheng. That distinguished Oriental will soon marry the daughter of Yu-Keng, the Chinese Minister at Paris. The wed ding will take place at Peking before the Minister loaves for Washington, arriving early in January. Sir Liang's fiancee is described as a perfect type of Celestial beauty and as unusually accomplished. She Is 22 years old and has lived for the last three years at her father's legation, being almost as well known in Parisian society as Madame Wu was in Washington. Waterproof Briquettes. Consul B. H. Warner reports from Leipzig: All briquettes which have hitherto been manufactured by means of soluble cements (such as dextrin molasses, lixiviated cellulose, oxidized lignine, resignate of ammonia, etc.) dissolve in water. Richard Bock, an engineer of Merseburg, province of Saxony, has found a method for mak ing briquette which are entirely water proof. He heats the finished briquettes until the cement is wholly or partly carbonized, which makes them indis soluble. In case the ignition temper ature of the cement Is likely to be at tained the heating must take place in an air-tight case or by means of hot gases. The Power of Liquid Hydrogen. Every gaseous substance now defin itely known to the chemist, with the single exception of helium, may be sol idified with the aid of the low tempera ture furnished by liquid hydrogen. Professor Dewur, of London, to whom the world is indebted for nearly all the discoveries of tnis kind, expects to suc ceed in solidifying even helium, and is now making a series of experiments to that end at the Royal Institution. Liquid hydrogen has a temperature of 436 decrees below zero. Miss. SARA M C GAHANL of what PEKUNA could do, I decided to try a bottle, and you can imagine how glad I felt when it began to relieve me in a very short time. In less than two weeks I was completely cured."—Sibyl A, Hadley. Miss Sarah McGahan, No. 197 3d street, Albany, N. Y., writes: "A few months ago I suffered with a severe attack of influenza, which nothing seemed to relieve. My hearing became bad, my eyes became irritated ami feverish. Nothing seemed right and nothing I ate tasted good. I took PEKUNA and within two weeks I was perfectly well."—Sarah McGahan. If you do not derive prompt and satis factory results from the use of Peruaa write at once to Dr. Hartman, giving a full statement of your case, and he will be glad to give you his valuable advice gratis. Address Dr. Hartman, President of The Ilartman Sanitarium. Columbus, O. THE BAKER'S OVEN. How Bakers Themselves Determine It by Mere Touch of Hand. "Bakers have a curious way of tell ing just what the temperature of the oven is," said a downtown baker who has been in the business for more than a quarter of a century, "and they can tell, too, with almost marvelous accuracy. You take a man who is an expert in the business, and he can tell what the temperature of the oven is by simply touching the han dle of the oven door. In nine cases out of ten he will not miss it the frac tion of a degTee. Bakers have other ways, of course, of testing the heat of the oven. For instance, when bak ing bread they sometimes throw a piece of white paper into the oven, and if it turns brown the oven is at the proper temperature, or, when bak ing other things, they will throw a little cornmeal or flour into the oven in order to test the heat. But the baker's fingers are the best gauge and when you come to think of the differ ent temperatures required in baking different things, it is no small achieve ment to even approximate the heat of the oven by touching the handle of the oven door. Bakers figure that during the rising time of a loaf of bread, after it has been placed in the oven, it ought to be in a temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit. During the baking process, in order to cook the starch, expand the carbonic acid gas, air and steam, and drive off the al cohol, the inside of the loaf must reg ister at least 220 degrees. In baking rolls, buns, scones, tea biscuits, drop cakes, fancy cakes. New Year's cakes, mufllus, puff cakes and things of that sort, the oven must show a heat of 450 degrees higher. When the oven is at 400 degrees, it is fit for cream puffs, sugar cake, queen cakes, rock cakes, jumbles, lady fingers, rough and ready Jelly rolls. At 350 degrees wine cakes, cup cakes, ginger nuts and snaps, pies, ginger bread, spice cakes, such as raisin, currant, citron, pound, bride and so on, may be baked. It re quires a still lower temperature to bake wedding cakes, kisses, anise drops and things in this class. But whatever temperature the old baker wants, he can tell when ho has it by simply touching the handle of the oven door." Takes No Food But Milk. Four quarts of milk daily, or there abouts, for 20 years has been the sole diet of Thomas F. Laubach, qf Hazel ton, Pa. two decades ago Mr. Lau bach, being then 51 years old, was in very bad health, and his physicians gave up his case. Then he decided to doctor himself and has done so ever since, absolutely confining his diet to milk. Now he is one of the healthiest and soundest men in town. The Wheat Area. The statistician of the Department of Agriculture estimates the newly seeded area of winter wheat at about 34,000.000 acres, an increase of 5.1 per cent, upon the area estimated to have been sown in the fall of 1901. The condition of winter wheat on Decem per 1 was 99.7 as compared with 86.7 In 1901, 97.1 in 1900 and a nine-year average of 91.4.