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Autumn's "Call to the Colors" Is
sues Summons. Whole Rainbows of Shades In Great Fashion Shows, Correspondents Relate—New Names. To paraphrase a much-quoted verse —Silhouettes mny come and go, but new shades come forever! There are whole rainbows in the K'ew York fashion exhibits, writes a correspondent. When the war began and we were bereft of imported dyes the prophets of calamity pictured the American pub lic parading the earth in stainless white or crocky black, like animated pen and ink drawings. All costumes were to be matters of sharp contrast and high visibility and scarlet and purple were to vanish from the earth. Luckily their prophecies are unful filled and American women still go ar rayed like lilies of the field, in rain bow hues that stand up remarkably under repeated tubbings. The American dye makers are tri umphant, and shoppers are no longer warned that heavenly colors are "not guaranteed to wash." As usual, the new autumn season is to offer a fascinating array of new shades and of modified old shades in brand new names. Dark blue continues its undisputed reign as the "best" color for all pur poses. Dark shades of blue are the favor ites, both for street and evening wear. Mrs. Wilson, wife of the president, herself christened- one deep shade of blue "Liberty" and the war has bestowed on other dark shades the titles of "Joffre," "Blue Devil," "Poilu," "Pershing" and "Overseas." "Casque" is the romantic name bes towed on a steel blue that reflects the light on "tin hats." Besides the war blues there are wonderful shades called Japan blues, and one alluringly dubbed "Cleopatra." Purples, too, are exceedingly good this year, and all show the blue tints. Their new names are "Sammy," "Phlox," and "Yankee purple." Among the browns, which range from khaki to seal shades, are many that take golden tones. Reds will enjoy a new vogue, but they are rich rather than vivid, most of them inclining to brown tones Burgundy, mulberry and lobster, with some wonderful "old" reds, such as Indian, geranium and terra cotta, the latter masked under a new name— "Dourga." All grays will be unusually good, even those of bluish cast which ordi narily are reserved for the warm sea sons. Greens are to be offered, but it is not safe to predict their reception. American women never have taken kindly to green. However, the new ones, which hint of brown and yellow, are attractive and not so trying as the greens of oth er years. VELVET FOR NEW FALL HATS BLUE MORE BLUE Panne Material to Be in the Forefront, According to Latest Bulletin of Millinery Association. Panne velvet will be an important factor in popular-priced fall millinery this year, according to the latest bul letin of the Retail Millinery Associa tion of America. It says: "Some of the advance fall models 'hat are being displayed by popular priced wholesale houses consist of panne velvet combined with plain vel vet satin or taffeta combined with beaver, satin combined with velvet, and all velvet. Many of the black models FOR STREET WEAR TH!S FALL In selection of fall gowns one is at tracted by this black satin, one-piece street frock with braid on the cuffs top sr.d bcKotn cf t: 2 mmmmmrt. BLACK JET BEAD SUNBURST S3 A black jet bead sunburst is scat tered over this entire surface, afford ing a captivating and stylish adorn ment. display colored facings of panne vel vet. Some hats are shown in two tone effects—taupe with burgundy or mahogany, green with amber or taupe and blue. These combinations are most attractive, and tfiie colors dis played are the new shades for fall. "fe medium and small shapes in velvet, smocking or tucking is used to a great extent. In a saucer brim ef fect the smocking appears on the un der brim in turbans it is used around the side crown. Ostrich bands, both' wide and narrow, uncurled or curled ostrich fancies in single or double ply, ostrich pompons, appliqued flower de signs, wings, large and small stitch ing of silk floss (in some cases to match the facing of the hat) and wired loops of ribbons or velvet are used as trimmings. "The shapes seen in these hats are saucer brim effects in medium-sized shapes, turbans, elongated or round, turbans sloping to one side, large shapes with wide sides and short back and fronts with upturned back. Crowns are high, collapsible, draped an5 folded." FIND NEW KIND OF TRIMMING Heads In Water Color Are Effectively Used to Garnish an Attractive Evening Dress. The water color artist has discov ered new fields for conquest, and the bodices of evening dresses are the canvases used. The old flower motifs have been discarded, according to the official journal of the National Gar ment Retailers association, and newer things are taking their places. "A certain evening frock's pink bodice," it says, "is ornamented with three little water-colored heads, which are about the size of a half dollar. One is the head of a giggling.school girl, befrilled and berlbboned. Anoth er is that of a budding "deb," and the third is of an English 'Johnny,' eye glasses and sleek. "The interesting point about this form of trimming lies in the fact that it is not a design or in the least con ventionalized, but true life sketching very well executed.. However, this makes all the more evident Its harsh, exacting note on the soft bodice of an evening gown." STYLES IN OUR HEADGEAR Both Large and Small Hats, Loaded or Unloaded With Trimming, Fashionable This Season. This Is a season of wide diversity of ideas in millinery. As a very suc cessful and well-known milliner re marked the other day, "Any style that is becoming is fashionable this sea son." You may wear big hats or little hats or hats of medium size, and they may be of any fabric practical for millinery and as for trimming there are models rather elaborately trimmed, simply trimmed models and hats al most entirely devoid of trimming. This is indeed welcome news, and woe to the woman who does not have a becoming hat. She cannot blame it on the modes of the moment, but upon her own lack of judgment or care in the selection of this most im portant detail of her wardrobe. SKIRTS SHORT AND TIGHTER Latest Mandate From Goddess of Styles, According to Report Reaching New York. Skirts are to be at least three inches shorter and mtch tighter this winter, writes a New York correspondent. This is the Is test mandate of the goddess of style, and the news was brought to American women here by Miss Margaret Drcaker, foreign buyer for a prominent .American firm, who arrived from Franc». "You can tell American women that styles for fall and winter call for skirts at least three Inches shorter and much tighter," said Miss Dreaker. "Jackets are to be shorter, and tighter, too. All designs look toward the conservation of cloth. Prevailing coitus will be br'Tvn, /rreen, navy blue and tnupe." 10 SOLVE FMM LABOR PROBLEM Men and Women From Towns and Cities Go Into Country to Assist Farmers. LARGEST ACREAGE OF CROPS How States Have Enlisted and Organ ized Labor for Farms to Save Season's Food Harvest— "Shock Troops" Assist. The co-operation of people of vil lages, towns and cities in harvesting the farm crops demonstrates in a most forcible way the patriotism of the American people and the active way in which they are supporting the pro gram of the government. Farmers planted this year the larg est acreage of crops in the history of our agriculture. Everywhere the farm ers have responded to the call from the government for greater food pro duction and are doing everything with in their power to give to the country the large supply that is so greatly needed. While crop production has been In creased, the farmers have been con fronted with labor difficulties in many sections of the Union, and have had to cope with the difficulty of cultivat ing and harvesting an increased acre age of crops with a reduced amount of regular labor to do the work. In order that this question might be clearly placed before the people of the villages, towns and cities of the va rious states, arrangements were made by the department of agriculture, in co-operation with state councils of de fense, the agricultural colleges and the U. S. department of labor and state departments of labor, to hold meetings with chambers of commerce, business men's^associations, rotary clubs, and other organizations of the cities and towns, placing before them the need for agricultural labor and urging ac tion which will give adequate assist ance. Everywhere the response has been large and gratifying. The result of this campaign is that many thou sands of workers have been enrolled and have done much to meet the emer gency. There Is reasonable assurance that, in spite of difficulties, all the crops will be normally harvested. Business Men Save Potatoes. The potato crop of Houston and Wharton counties, Texas, has been saved through the aid of the business men in local towns. When it was real ized that the potato crop would be lost unless the farmers received help, the state extension director, co-operating with the farm help specialist of the de partment of agriculture, explained the situation and the business men closed their offices, stores and banks, went to the farms and worked with the potato growers in harvesting the crop. More than nine and one-half million acres of wheat were harvested in Kan sas. Hundreds of towns organized their forces and closed their stores, offices, and other places of business during the day, that the workers nVght go to the fields and help save this food crop. The mayor and board of public works of one c* the large middle west ern cities closed their offices and worked in the wheat fields. The mayor drove the binder while the other men shocked the grain. On a farm adjoin ing a Catholic institution in Indiana 145 priests were found assisting in the harvest of the alfalfa and clover hay and the wheat and oats. "Shock troops" have been organized to assist the farmers in harvesting their wheat. These so-called "shock troops" consist of business men, clerks and laborers who volunteer to assist In this way. These men perform their regular worfc In town during the day »nd at 5 o'clock are taken in automo biles to the country, where they assist he farmers. In this way the regular '"ls'ness is H-rled on and at the same I THE HOPE PIONEER vj ((Special Information Service, United States Department of Agriculture.) CITY FOLKS HELP HARVEST CROPS. These Firemen's "Days Off" Were Spent on Farms Helping With the Wheat Harvest time these men go Into the fields dur ing the cool part of the day, when they can render the greatest service. In one evening alone 40 men were able to shock more than 80 acres of wheat. Women Cook for Hands. In Indiana 24 towns secured an en rollment of 9,000 workers to assist In the harvest of the wheat and oats crop. Kansas City, as a result of a campaign during the week of June 3 to 8, en listed 10,000 workers to assist Kansas farmers. These workers not only of fered their services, but under the di rection of the athletic club and the chamber of commerce took a course of training which fitted them and harden ed them for the severe work they would be called upon to do on the farms. In addition to enrolling men, women were enlisted from the towns and cities to go to the country to as sist the farmers' wives in cooking and caring for this large army of harvest hands. Forty thousand city people as sisted Kansas farmers in handling the wheat. In the berry district south of Port land, Ore., a large amount of help is needed to harvest the crop. The farm help specialist in Portland enlisted the services of 1,000 women and girls, who were organized into units and taken to the district, where they are now working and aiding in harvesting the crop in a satisfactory way. Emergency Labor Organization. The farm labor administration of the Illinois .fitate council of defense, in co-operation with workers furnished by the U. S. department of agricul ture, has perfected an emergency farm labor organization in practically every county of the state. Reports from 60 counties show more than 50,000 work ers registered to assist In the harvest. In the sugar-beet districts of south ern Michigan, Colorado and Utah many thousands of workers have been se cured to cultivate this crop and thus insure a large supply of sugar. In a similar way the other states have organized and enlisted labor for the farms and thus meet in a most admirable way the emergency needs. crops Harvesting of cotton, cane, rice, late sweet potatoes, and other AVAnO In tllA Cnntlt n».1 aamh i^l to be done and will require the co-operation of men, women, boys and girls from cities and towns to help in the fields and orchards. Through the active jjj future. With organizations well started, with a better under standing on the part of urban people as to their responsibill ties, with public sentiment fa- 1 voring the "work or fight" idea, with the classification of non essential industries, with anti- j?i For cabbage worais: Mix one part of fresh Persian insect powder with four parts of air-slaked lime, and dust it on the plants at regular Intervals. "ELEPHANTS" USED FOR OBSER VATION AND TO DIRECT FIRE OF BATTERIE& PILOTS PARACHUTE JUMPERS Thousand Community Labor Boards Have Been Organized—Gun Produc tion for Army Grows Rapidly—Iron Rations Ordered. (From Committee on Public Information.) Washington.—Up to a few years ago, in the public mind, all balloons were associated with parachute jumpers, county fairs and circuses. They ware used very much like their rival the olid side show, full of freaks, solely to draw a crowd. Today Uncle Sam is making balloons and training their op erators for distinctly another purpose. The ungainly old balloon of circus days is now a rival of its smarter and more modern brother, the airplane, in the job of being ey£s for the army and navy. A dead industry- was revived when the war balloon was originated. Swinging far aloft at the end of a cable, these "elephants," as they are now called, support trained observers who, by means of powerful field glasses and telephones, give range and direc tion to batteries. These in turn, with well directed shots, put enemy batter ies out of business and break up infan try forming for attack. A stationary balloon four or five thousand feet in the air is an ideal place for an ob server. So Uncle Sam's parachute jumpers are being instructed today, not as entertainers to draw and thrill crowds by "leaps from the clouds," but for their own personal safety and the safety of their records made at high elevations, when a shell or an enemy airplane rips their balloon and they have to jump. For although their balloon may be destroy ed, the men in the basket usually come safely to earth and bring their maps and photographs with them. It is a life full of excitement these men of the bal loon lead, and to be a member one has to hove plenty of nerve, courage and daring in his makeup. Aviators take off their hats to the balloon men. One recently returned American air pilot told of an adventure lie had on a trial trip in a balloon how interested he was becoming in the work of the observer as the latter ex plained the great panorama outstretch ed below him when suddenly the bal loon man interrupted his talk to see that his parachute straps were O. K., climbed to the edge of the basket, shouted: "Beat it follow me," and disappeared over the side. The avi ator said he took one look at the wind lass pulling the balloon to earth below, another at the oncoming enemy plane and said to himself, "Not for mine." He said he did not have the courage to jump and did not. Fortunately the enemy plane was beaten off by allied planes before it could get any nearer. Provost Marshal General Crowder was requested by the British embassy to give notice to the fact that British subjects, Including declarants, who had registered before July SO, 1919, ma-V enlist voluntarily in the British or Ca nadian army up to and including Sep tember 28, 1918. Those who registered on August 24, 1918, may so enlist up to and including September 23, 1918. Those who register on September 12, 1918, may so enlist up to and includ ing October 12, 1918. During the period so allowed for vol untary enlistment, British subjects may apply for exemption to the British am bassador. At the end of (lie period allowed for voluntary enlistmci British subjects, in each of these classes, may no longer enlist in the British or Canadian army but unless exempted by the British ambassador, they become liable to mil itary service and may claim exemption under the United States Selective Serv ice law. Experiments In laundering shoes are being conducted at various camps by the conservation reclamation division of the quartermaster corps. The meth od used is the same employed by the American expeditionary forces. A solution composed of one quart of strong disinfectant to 50 gallons of wa ter was used to wash about 200 army shoes in a standard laundry machine. The solution used is germicide, antisep tic and deodorant. After 14 minutes' washing, the shoes were removed, dried for about an hour and then resoled. The results were found to be highly satisfactory. After the shoes are laun dered and repaired they are greased with dubbing to make them more pli able and at the same time to preserve the leather. Save a nutshell to help save a life! Nuts, the shells of nuts and seeds and pits of several varieties of fruits are needed in quantity supply to make carbon, for use In gas masks or resoi rators for our soldiers. Coconut shells have furnished the material for this carbon, but the sup ply of such shells Is wholly inadequate. The seed and pits of peaches, prunes, dates, apricots, plums, olives and cher ries, and English or native walnuts, hickory nuts, butternuts and their hells, and Brazil nnt shells, are the :st suhstltutas for the coconut shcK Recent reports show that approxl mately 1,000 community labor boards of the United States employment serv ice have been organized or are In final process of organization. Between 700 and 800 of them are ready to function and some already have begun wofk. Fnll and partial returns from 3$ states and the District of Columbia give a total of 915 boards completed or In formation while four other states, two of them large Industrial common wealths, report the organization of boards but not the number. The five remaining states failed to report Each community iabor board is com posed of three members, one represent ing the community's employers, the sec ond it employees and the third, who i» chairman, the United States employ ment service. The employers' and em ployees' members are chosen by their respective local organizations, thelf ap polntment being approved by the di rector general of the employment serv ice. It Is the work of the community boards to geherally supervise the re cruitment and distribution of workers for war production, the actual recruit ing and distributing being done by the local offices and agents of the employ ment service, including the agents of the public service reserve. The federal directors of employment for the states have been notified by the director general to rush the organ ization of the boards for their states and their functioning as quickly as possible in order to provide relief for short-handed war industries. Some facts about guns and munitions told by the secretary of war: We are constructing a big gun plaht at Neville Island. We signed a con tract with United States Steel corpor ation to build and operate without profit this plant for guns of the larger calibers. This is the biggest plant of this kind ever conceived and will build guns of not less than 14 inch. The site is just below Pittsburgh and cov ers about 1,000 acres. The housing Will be on the hills south of the island. The amount Of money Involved Is $150,000,000 which is being supplied by the United States government. This plant will handle a tremendous amount of material, and will be retained by the government after the war. We have shipped two hundred and fifty 155-mm. howitzers to France. We are producing between 25,000 and 30,000 machine guns per month. Of-Browning heavy 6,000 to 7,000 Browning light automatic rifle from S.000 to 9,000 per month. We are making about 1,200 motor tractors per month. We are turning out all the smokeless power we need now. The production of rifles has been about 200,000 per month. We produce more than 50,000 pistols and revolvers per month. Orders have been given for the sup ply of one million emergency rations by the subsistence division of the quartermaster corps. The emergency ration corresponds to the iron ration of the British troops. It is carried in an air-tight, gas-proof container and is suf ficient to maintain a man for one day, sustaining his full strength and vigor It is strapped in the pack of the sol dier going over the top and may be used only according to the Instructions given when the emergency ration is issued. The emergency ration is composed Of ground meat and wheat compressed into a cake. There is also a block of sweet chocolate. The bread and wheat component may be eaten dry or, if possible, stirred into cold water. The cake, when boiled for five minutes in three pints of water, results In a very palatable soup, or when boiled in one pint of water for five minutes It makes porridge which may be eaten hot or cold. When cold, it may be sliced and fried, if bacon or other fat is available. The chocolate component of the emergency ration ma.» be eaten, dry or made Into hot chocolate. The quartermaster corps has just completed purchases of large quantities of foodstuffs for distribution by the American' Red Cross. The food will be shipped to France, Switzerland and Denmark and used for civilian relief and at prison camps. The order includes more than 2,500, 000 pounds of hard bread 250,000 pounds of oatmeal 333,333 pounds of fresh beef and more titan p00,000 cans of baked beans. Purchases also have been made for the Red Cross of 205,000 cans of fish flakes. These flakes are a combination of haddock and shad About 350 pounds of fresh fish are re quired to make 100 pounds of fish flakes. Purchases also are being made by the subsistence division of the quartermas ter corps of foodstuffs for use at American rest camps in England and ^France. Purchase for rest camps in clude more luxuries than are Issued in the regular ration. Owing to the shortage of tonnage, canned corn and peas and other fancy staples are not now being sent overseas for general use, but sufficient quantities are avail able for men in rest camps an'd for the wounded in the hospitals. More than 400 colleges have respond ed to the war department's call for co-operation In training the new branch of the army, the students' army train ing corps. Plans are being made to convert fraternity houses and dormi tories into barracks for the period of the war. The S. A. T. C. has two branches, the 1 collegiate, to which men qualified by high school graduation are eligible and the vocational section, to which grammar school graduates are eligi ble. Recruits will be procured by vol untary induction. v.