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eP aSin This CountrS Than a aerouluony Tiher Me1Iu. to Call rbeets-ecret ýIMeans inght obje ncad ;he dit omuniatiOn. suit e n merican public, says a nwer E -n rancisco letter to the he1 f , Y4ork Post, bhas but a ant 'ltcoeption of the nunm o Iyall per of the Chinese secret Iot poI to the majority even s." is unsuypeted; but if L s !ete history during t he past to Mrs Inld be writte3, and the her, Wa J cuceruing their sneees'es as tell eria olticitls in ob ,oe a: of tieir own race, it wolld me no"w ,ecitd almost beyond belief. eled ,etiS in this country, in icaled an a-d San FranclSco,are made are or uio political refugees ix is l bte failed in their attempts iddie tis reiguig dynasty in right s and to save their heads have said be tis Contr, where they find she ;I0 ompanionsh In China 11 bhj atorganiz+tions are called the as she jety, and for years, or until Che ping rebelliou, they defied t resources of the Chinese . ent. In this country the :Esr 8are known among themselves look at thet Bos," a suggestive title, ther 1 ev carry on their commtnica i folio ystre-arlkble system of signs 1ils that was discovered by n't yo iental capture in San Francis" eimp abook containing them. Thus ,ormixed Chinamen in a restau croes t 'ommunicate with their u known an: is a party by the way they ry I'e ietheir :ups, the manlner of plac on for' cape. tdeapots, and the direc not to iothespont of tae latter. A mem r Im of the flng Socity announces ihe has' ence by arranging the cups in eed yeti pently accidental way, so that ,but al fior this name. The members ieeHung or Chu Kung Secret fled. an be recognized at once by young sythey raise the teacups to the n called while the Yeo Hings twist the .ly 8so in8 certain way. By the use of ver als gosandsymbols the impression diefio aconveyed that they are Free. Texas and the members do every g-" ? they can to perpetuate this be e Groui t Bt a commission captured on a Ispice ebeo! the Victoria branch of the Indles Kng Tong tells a very different ;ree . It is a long document, too long it thir y, but according to it, the mem much bound to obey all orders, and if rith a sintotroublethe Tong promises iave v by him. The following clause ways tive: "It is further stipu g the Iatyou, in common with your he. os, shall exert yourselves to cons wound any one at the direction a foi w Tong." ation ,oeieties have been a menace St no American judiciary for years, - Spl the use of the large sums of to at their ccmmand they have al raisee able to interfere seriously with ol rt or alainistration of justice by the tt S yment of many criminal arts for it nall the race is famous. In every le ir ol inathe United States where Chi- ei d, r aire represented in any number pime societies are found, Cspecially i iste. ieeHin, which is the lrincipal in o in New Yorl;, I'hiladelphia, - eea, and n and other Eastern cities. be re Tong among the Chinese is sup )se of. to be iniallable, completely nto ting its members and terrorizs ttho who take issue with it. In n n ancisco the Chu Kung Tong is e s chief society, while there are many b plant , ones which have divided from a yen parent stock for various criminal b ns the . Thus theo Wa Ting Shan b single ?Mthe gamblers under its espe- ii r mort protection and provides money ' The theirdefense when arrested ; it will s beoause fiad false witnesses, substitute r lose rat men for the real prisoners, a valnel oicers and jury, end .in every a posed to .oppoae the carrying out of the L s, swhen : r the law. l trn work of the Kwong Tak in- v otly r lthe importation of women, who v for ex told rich Chinamen and the I a tatej of women from various re- t ghttt Atleast twenty per cent. ."f the s of hereare paid fighters, and nearly r hence the street fights in the various t S sqnurters in this coantry are ten members of rival Tongs. 1 eof their methods are as follows : Clotb. l aslave escapes from an owner, ple ci go of robbery will bho made but net her by the Tong, and false ab by the score (the oaid mem to y appear against her. This results h evoman being take's fromn the am ti a to which shu has iled and Sw0a, into jail, where, though per eat fr~ innocent, she is kept and every I ueLs. rade to have her committed by blessO teatimonc. If she repents and arded retrn to her owners, they agree ad be ithdw all charges. T:e ven w the Tong does not stop here. which. discover the Chinaman who Ste the woman to escape he is either ners 'n by members of the Tong select MIeP Jt . the purpose or treated as in and ntances know to the writer, of it, the man was chargod with mur are so complete a chain of evi cot ga m hoped up by the Tong that h be erfectly innocent man would Bad ad lhae been hanged or sentenced ithi i0 for life but for the interioer Sse, of the Methodist Chinese mis made of San Francisco. oof, 1utrate the duplicity of these a 1k one has but to translate their plaini ,Thus the Kwong Tab Soolety SM The Chamber of Far-reaching Cloth a"t once high-sounding and rl quent; but when a well-known Pre hilanthropist, in a defence of aese, investigated the inner teamber of Kwong Tab Tong, he t 0 that its object was the importa the emale laves. Another society, id referred to, making a specialty t0e revolting bnsiness, has a 'L o Tong, which, when trans I. lated, means "The Chamber of Tran quil Conscientiousness." Others are Hip Shing Tong, "The Hall of Vie torious Union"; the Hop Shing Tong, DR "The Hall of Associated Conquerors"; ; the Sin Shing Tong, "Hall of Auspici ous Victory"; the Ping Kung Tang,: Car "The Halt of Maintained Justice," and many more, all composed of the most precious rascals unhung. What these societies can accomplish in defending their members is shown by the Po Shln She, "Guild for the Protection of Virtue," and Kai Shin She, "Guild of Hereditary Virtue." When the case of Lee Chuck, a red handed assassin, came to court, they a I raised $30,000) to defend him, and for Tin months, by the aid of false testimony, for hired witnesses, and bribed otfficials, big defied the law and prostituted justice. ros The records of the Chinese missions of rea San Francisco during the past ten sha years show a system of slavery a thou- bin sand times worse than that carried on fro by the slave-dealers of Africa, as it Yo: operates in the very heart of an Amer- in ican city where there is a law for the in oppresseu. of The white missionaries, though hay- anm ing poor support, and often having to goi fight the courts, are doing valuable 1 work in breaking up these practices lan and showing up the secret societies to . cre the world. Dr frIi Utilizing Old Shoes. ter Old shoes are not waste, from the de standpoint of modern industry. After Va they have done their service and are he discarded by the first wearers, a see- Ye ond-hand dealer restores the worn of shoes to something like their former appearance and they are sold again, Na to be worn a little longer by the of poorer classes. When the shoes are thE finally discarded by them they are soi 1 still goad for various purposes. In France such shoes are bought up in att quantities by rag dealers and sold to factories, where the shoes are taken apart and submitted to long manipu- tif lations, which turn them into a paste, de from which the material is trans- ia t formed into an imitation leather, ap- I pearing very much like the finest inl morocco. Upon this material stylish 3 designs are stamped, and wall papers, I trunk coverings and similar articles are manufactured from it. Another al French indusnay .-.._ old dilapidated n shoes is the transforming of old into th new footwear. This is the principal I occupation of the military convicts imprisoned in the fortress of Mont- hx e pelier. There the shoes are taken apart, all the nails are taken out, and Lt then the leather is soaked in water g some time to soften it. From those h pieces that can be used are cut the la uppers or children's shoes, and parts di 's of the soles are similarly used. The at ie smallest pieces of leather are applied da ' to be used in high Louis XV. heels, bi r which were so much in style a few b' years ago. Even the nails of the old m n shoes are used again. They are oper- tb ated by a magnet, which attracts the , 'e steel nails, while the copper and brass nails are carried on'further. The price la 'f received for the old copper nails alone e almost pays for the first cost of the h old shoes. Clippings and cuttings of ai e the leather are also used, being turned W )r into a paste from which artificial , leather is made, and what is not good e enough to serve for this purpose is r sold with the sweepinga to agricultur- t ists in the neighborhood, who use this paste with grcat success asa fertilizer. n S-St. Louis Globe-Democrat. A 3iother's Journey. STravelers along the gravel road con n necting with Ashland, Mo., ten miles o is east of Columbii, have for some time .y been treated to the novel spectacle of : m a young woman, stout of arm and il broad of shoulder, bearing on.her I bn hack a withered specimen of human O- ity in the shape of an old woman. Oy Those who haye inquired why this ill strange sight should be have received to but short answers from the younger s, woman, and not a syllable from the ry withered lis of the old crone on her 1 e back. innquiries along the route over ' which they have recently traveled o were more productive of information. he It seems that they have passed e- through many Missouri towns, and he that Iowas is their destination. They ly refuse to give their names, nor will us they divulge where they came from, but re admit they have been traveling on 1 gs foot for over three months. It is vs: said that at both Ashland and Jeffer er, son City the citizens made up a purse do to take them to their destination, but IsC while they accepted the money they m- refused to buy the necessary railroad itS ticakets. S The most re'markablo fact about nd their journey is the slow pace at wer which they travel. It took them just cry I twelnvo days to move from Ashland to by Deer Park, a distanuce of only seven tad miles. Their only articles are car re ried in a small child's wagon, At in u- tervals of every ten minutes a halt is rC. made. If the sun is hot, or rain de ho scends, the younger woman takes from her the wagon their sole article of shelter, ct- a small piece of c.nvas. This she in stretches from the top of a fence to ter, the ground on the side of the road, ur- and the pilgrims crawl under it for a cvi- moment's rest, after which they again hat rise and proceed elowly on their way. uld __ ced Bismarck anud His Pipe.* mis- Many years ago Prince Bismnark bought of a Bohemian peddler a meer ,ese sohaum pipe, to which he ascribed a heir power of forecasting the future. The lcty man said that Bismarck would serve dung three Emperors as Minister, and that and three important changes in life would own be foretold by accidents befalling the e of pipe. Bismarck has since served three ner- Emperors. Two days before the pres , he ent Emperor'refused him an audience irta- the stem of the pipe came to pieces. et, Later he chippoe abit the oe bOwl, alty and withina month the Emperor dis s a missed him. The third sign is yet to ansl- come. A LIFE ROMANCE. DR. W. SEiWARD WERBL MAY BE A UNITED STATIS SENATOR. Career of a Mnan Whu by a kind Act Sprang From a Penniless Interne Into Great lWcastI,. H N his election to the Legislaturo seel of Vermont Dr. W. Seward Webb sure makee his political bow to the S American public. This fact, says of t a New York letter to the Chicago cenp Times-Herald, is of importance chiefly for the reason that it is a step toward e higher honors for the millionaire rail road and palace car magnet. It is al. we ready said that Dr. Webb's friends are T shaping his affairs in order to send t him to the Senate of the United State.. from Vermont. His friends in New A York predict a brilliant career for him idic in National pclities, and his neighbors girl in Vermont are pleased to find,a maIi joki of Dr. Webb's great financial import- Z ance taking an interest in practical bee government. one Never was the story of Aladdin's her lamp so perfectly reduced to the con- I crete as in the life and adventures of Dr. Webb. At one coup he was lifted apT from the position of a penniless in- on terne in a hospital to that of the hus band of one of the richest of the Van derbilt heiresses. The magic of the lon Vanderbilt millions touched him anti abI he bloomed into a director of the New bel York Cenutral Railroad, the President I of the Wagner Palace Car Company can and one of the loading powers in the anc Nation's world of wealth. This story crc of his rise and greatness in prettier tail than any romance of the loves of the sun sons and daughters of New York's millionaire families. In 1830 he was attached to the Vanderbilt clinic in 1 St. Luke's Hospital, and was in charge lan of the surgical patients of that institu- red tion. To this clinic Miss Lila Van- prf derbilt, the youngest daughter of Will- in' iam H. Vanderbilt was a constant vis- Th Itor. One day a little girl was brought ho' into the hospital with a broken leg. to The interne had r, soft heart and a dai I sympathetic nature and the sweet face col of the child attracted him. He was pry always by her bedside and watched spi the case with a solicitude that touched sat the child heart of the patient. The col I girl began to love him and spoke of mi him to -Miss Vanderbilt in terms of is extravagance that aroused the young spt woman's interest. So, too, had she dr. spoken to the doctor of the "kind on r young lady" who had so often visited th her. One day the little patient re- afi lapsed. The case was critical, and the sei doctor, alarmed for her life, watched at her bedside for hours. While the Or doctor was thus engaged Mies Vander- Er bilt entered the room and approached fit v the bed. She saw the handsome young wi man and looked inquiringly toward Si: the little girl. The patient smiled. ge e "This is the kind doctor," she ex- wl plained, "and this is the kind young of e lady." ot eMiss Vanderbilt extended her hand s: and clasped the hand of the man who tr d was to become her husband. ar Thus it was that a kind heart opened or d the door of honor, fortune and golden e success to Seward Webb. He did not th r. long remain an interne in the hospi- fu tal. To be one of the Vanderbilts jo . means to be a part of the great rail- et road system owned by the family. ct Webb had studied medicine. He must cc now study railroading, for Miss Van- Vi derbilt loved him. A firm-Worden ti a- & Webb-was created for him and as opened business in Wall street. The 1 match was a happy one, and was ap of proved by Mr. Vanderbilt. How sub d stantially it was approved was made eJ known when, on thu day of the wed- p Sding, the couple were presented with n. the stately house at 680) Fifth avenue. i When the older Vanderbilt died Mrs. G ed Webb inherited $15,000,000. Mean- tl er while, the young doctor, preferring h herailroads to medicine, had progressed h er in the craft of Wall street, and had a stepped Into the position which his i 'r wife's wealth entitled him to. n d The doctor's personality and fam- i , ily history were pleasing to the Van derbilts. His father was James Wat ad son Webb, proprietor of the Courier and Journal of Tarrytown, and an im portant man in his day. When Sew mt iard was a boy his father was made i, on United States Minister to Brazil, and is it was there the doctor received his b r early education. Deciding to adoot so Imedicine as a- profession the young it man went to Paris, and there was ey graduated in the art. The elder ad Webb's father, or the doctor's grand- a father, was General \\ebb,who higured at conspicuously in the war of the Rev- t at olution as the aide-de-camp of Wash st Ington. He at one time was com to mander of Iamous old Fort Dearborn, en on the present site of the city of ar- Chicago. in- Some years after his acqulisition of 1 is the Vanderbilt millions, Dr. Webb le. decided to have t~a finest private Ces om tate in the world. This property is 1 er, now the pride of Vermonters. Shel - bourne Farms is the equal of any es' to tate in England, Germany or France. ad, It consists of 3000 acres of rolling r land, lying on an average of 300 feet I ain above the level of Lake Champlain. ay. Woods and orchards cover about 600 . acres. The rest is given up to the finest stock farm in America. One of Sthe features of this princely estate is yr.k Dr. Webb's mansion. It islocated on er- a sloping plateau right on the lake " a front, commanling an entrincing The view of the Adirondacks. The man rve sion is a Queen Anne structure, de hat signed entirely for comfort, but of ex uld ceedingly tasteful architecture, the Dr. Webb is fond of hunting and tree fishing. To this end he has a preserve res- in Herlrmer and Hamilton Counties, nee New York, comprising more than es. 200,000 acres of mountain and forest. I swl, its lakes and streams teem with fish dis- and its wobdlands are ranged by deer, t to bear and other four.footed beasts dear to the heart of the hunter.' .iOl)s OF WISi)OýI. Education, like varnish, if put on too thickly is apt to crack. Bolts are sometimes useful, but it needs solid planks to build a ship of state. It is well to keep cool in politics. Bribery only comes when the barrel has lost his head. Heo that 'does good for good's sake seeks neither praise nor reward,though sure of both at last. Some men think they are at the top of the ladder when they have not as cended the first round. Never judge a man by his clothes he wears; form your estimate from the A wearing apparel of his wife. ago The camel being asked, "Why is in E your neck so crooked?" answered, leas "What part of me is straight?" smi A man never realizes what perfect for idiots women are until he hears his ma girl laughing at some other fellow's mo jokes. Thi There is an age at which it does not the become a woman to act girlish, but no lo one seems t', have the courage to tell her so. lea inu It is remarkable how many sensible the appearing men take a pride in putting to on uniforms and carrying around tin ala swords. she Thed!cvil would have been whipped the long ago if he had not always been fos able to find something good to hide on behind. an Peevishness may be considered the ily canker of life, that destroys its vigor til; and checks its improvement, that creeps in with hourly depredation,and taints and vitiates what it cannot con.p sumc. Hligh Speed Express Trains. tre An attempt has been made in Eng- ca land, says the Pittsburg Dispatch, to th4 reduce the high rate of travel of ex- to press trains under the plea of lessen- or ing the number of railway accidents, of The Board of Trade returns show. it however, that while a speed of sixty th to seventy miles an hour is maintained 8a daily by many trains, mishaps are rare cle comparatively, and, moreover, it is ols proved that with a steady increase of co speed and more numerous trains the ha safety of the average passenger has be- irj come far greater. Another popular m, misconception was also corrected. It nr is generally believed that the high dr speed of express trains unnerves the ne drivers of the locomotives and brings tb I on various maladies, besides rendering an l them unfit for the strain of the work di after a comparatively short term of w, service. This view is not supported by facts. One of the best locomotive drivers in England has been at the throttle over r l fifty years, and can be trusted any day or with the fastest train in the country. M 1 Sir Henry Oakley, the General Mana- or ger of the Great Northern Railway, on ti which probably a higher average rate it [ of speed is maintained than on any fa other English railway, says that of m 1 sixty men wh, were driving express fe 3 trains regularly in 1886, forty-three Si are still at their posts. Of the rest ti d only five have died, all from acute dis- of a eases, one being killed by an accident, hi t the others having retired. It is doubt- in ful whether better prospects are en- ri , joyed by sixty men of the same age engaged in any other responsible oc- Pi cupation. It is further stated that no o t confirmation can be obtained of the q view that travelers suffer from vibra- w n tion caused by high speed. e jA Woman's Vo:ce. The question of what really consti- ti t utes a legal-or, to speak more prop c, e erly, an illegal nuisance-is just at t( ' present stirring up the population of h the village of Mount Vernon, N. Y,, , says the Troy Timei. Because Mrs. g . Greenwald is compelled to call her lit 1 tle daughter frequently the neighbors , g have begun to object. Some of them c d have little daughters of their own, f, Sand, in the abstract, the plan of call- o Sing children to the parental home is d not objectionable. In fact, it is abso- fl ' lutely necessary.. But complaint is h ' made about Mrs. Greenwald's method t Sof calling. It is said that her voice is n r not altogether melodious, and she n * varies the name of the child from e * "Gerty!" to "Ger.troo-oo.oo-oode!" a e in a manner which is extremely mo- t notonous. The Board of Health has a s been appealed to to abate the nuis- 1 Sance, but the mother insists that she g may call her wandering lamb whenever as and in any manner she likes. She er says she is not to blame for her voice, t d- and does not propose to attempt to ed change it just to gratify the silly no V tions of her neighbors. An Indiami Trained Nurse. of The distinction of being the first Indian woman to graduate as a trained of nurse is due Miss Nancy Cornelius, .1 b of the Oneida tribe of Wisconsin. She 1 a. has made for herself a niost enviable is reputation in this work. She was one I el- of the most promising pupils in the es. school on the Oneida reservation, and :e. was sent from there to the training ng school at Carlisle, Penn. After spending met a few years there she entered the Con in. necticut Training School and graduat 00ed from it in 1889. She says she sees he no good reason why she should return of to the reservation, especially when cir is cumstances are so unfavorable. ike A New Clotlh. sn The United States Consul at Havre de- recently sent home some samples of ex- new textile fabrics, which were exhib Ited at the State Department in Wash md ington. They were woven from the rve fibers of peat, which, as they proved, ie, can be bleached to whiteness and will an then take any dye. These fabrics are est. said to be especially advantageous is from the fact that they have antiseptio er, qualities which will prevent them from O harboring disease germs.--Soience N ews. 0 W5 N DRi J D A KANSAS GIRL BLACKS3TKl. the ] A Kansas girl of seventeen not long ite f ago won a prize in an unusual contest mos in competition with two men. She had tigh learned to turn a horseshoe in a black- fron smith shop, and at an entertainment oue. for the benefit of the church she omn matched herself against two of the T1 most expert blacksmiths in the city. brot Three portable forges were placed on by t the stage, and each contestant was al- old lowed a helper to blow the bellows. drai Both men and the girl wore the eith leather aprons peculiar to their call- low ing. The men smiled indulgently at the their girl rival as they waited for time will to be called, but became anxious, then side alarmed, and finally discomfited when fort she turned a perfect horseshoe before T i the an ience and judges in less than ing 1 four minutes. The curtain dropped eve on a pretty tableau of glowing forges bor and the smiling girl victor, who speed- Ohs ily appeared among her friends dain- pre tily clad in white. thai Sout FnIESIENING CREPE. side Old black crepe may be freshened for; and made almost equal to new if dro treated in the following way: Lay ere over the ironing table a piece of black knu cambric or cloth of any kind, and pin at t the piece of crepe smoothly through the to the blanket, stretching it out to its hor original size. Wring another piece stil of black cambric out of water and lay it over the crepe, patting it down with f the palm of the hand. Now, take hot d flat-irons and pass them over the wet e cloth, letting them just touch the co0 a cloth, but allowing no pressure to rug come upon the crepe. When the cloth ( e has become dry from the heat of the sill '' iron remove it, but let the crepe re- son r main pinned down until all the moist- c t re has evaporated and it is perfectly she h dry. The crepe will feel and look like dif e new. A long veil can be renovated in ' this way, doing a small part at a time, in g and making sure that the part re ' dressed comes under the edge of the wet cloth. ani s. of SENORITA AED HER MANTILLA. S , It is a source of the greatest regret us y on the part of everyone who visits tril `. Mexico that the senorita has so gen- o' a. orally laid aside her graceful laceman n tilla, and adopted Paris millinery in to its stead. The charm of a Spanish dr y face has so long been enhanced by the of of mantilla, and lace is such a fascinating foe as feature of Spanish art, that it is with i ;e sincere disappintment travelers note mt at the black-eyed and olive-skinned ladies in s. of the Republic calking abroad in st t, hats of the same style that are worn ,t. in New York. It matters not how bl n. richly trimmed they may be, these cul ýe fashionable modern hats seem out of sil c. place in Old Mexico. Half the charm 2o of the country lies in its antiquity, its be he quaint and individual customs; and wb a. when a custom is so universally be- lig coming as is the mantilla to the Mexi can senorita's face, it seems a real mis fortune to give it up. vo, With the interchange of commodi- oe ;i ties between the two repubhlics of wi P- course will come a greater or less in- Ve at terohango of customs, but we fear the of women of the States can never learn st! ý to. adjust the mantilla with the native br '*. grace of the Mexican born woman. ri it- The peon woman still clings to her ni ra rebozo, but the Mexican lady has dis If carded her Spanish lace mantillsa we o no fear forever, and they are being sold di 11- on the streets and in the shops by the as is dealers in'curios. Almost every lady at Io- from the States brings one home with sh is her, but there is no type in the North od that can wear the mantilla as if to the a is manner born. Many of the old ways di he may still be seen in Mexico. Every di m evening on the Paseo Mexican gentle- tl !" men are seen in the picturesque Na- o Lo- tonal costume, but the lace mantilla as on the dark eyed beauty will be is- looked for in vain.-Modern Mexico. he - Qr UAINT COIFFIUSE REVIVED. he Prepare to pile your hair high on CO, top ot your bead as a fitting accom- b paniment to the revival of trailing gowns, says the New York Journal. The easy and almost universally be. coming fashion of a low, loose figure "8" will be permitted for house wear, irst and for those numberless undressed led occasion] cherished by all women who us, love comfort better than dinners and She balls. But for full dress occasions, ,ble for dinners and receptions, for elbow on sleeves and low necked waists, dignm the fled mountains of high piled looks are and to prevail. This mode of dressing the I iog hair has its advwntages. The woman ing who indulges in it may raise her in o.- ches by at least one. It is the mode sat- best fitted to carry buckles and ai sees grettes, feathere and bows, flowers urn and pins. It will appeal. to many of air- the fair sex, while there will still be many others who will cling to their own pet fashion though all the world oppose it. Styles have come, and styles have avre gone, and it is a fact worth reobording, Is of a fact that may bring solace to the hib- hears of those maidens who long to ash- conti:rne to dress their hair in the the manniZ most bicoming to them, that ved, the Prircesses of the royal house of will England have gone on crimping and Sare curling and pinning and ornamenting eous in their own sweet ways, regardless of mptio time and its changes. erom For those of the fair sex who choose ence to continue on the old lines, the pom padour mode is the one that will be the most in vogue. It will be a favor ite fashion, because it is becoming to most faces. The hair may be drawn Stight and straight with good effect from young, fresh faces; for older ones, a soft, fluffy, loose effect will ree ommend itself; The style known as Viotoria, brought into fashion and held there i by the Queen, !will be chiefly worn by old ladies. Its soft, curling front, drawn softly from a straight part on either side of the face, and neither too low nor yet too high, but just where t the bonnet will rest best and easiest, I will appeal to most women who con I eider themselves old enoughto becom e fortable and commonplace. e The soft, single, coquettish curl fall s ing with apparently careless effect just 1 over the right shoulder is distinctly s borrowed from Marie Antoinette's day. Charming accompaniments of this pretty fashion are the mercury wings that finish the side combs and stand out as effective backgrounds on either side of the softly waving pompadour. For the classic profile and the low I forehead, the long line of waving hair SI drzopping low over the ears, just gath r ered in a loose knot, done how no one knows exactly, with a rose crashed in 1 at the side and a few leaves following h the line of the neck, will, it is to be s hoped, in spite of fashion's deoree, e still prevail. y h FASHION NOTES. ýt Black and white is still a favorite e combination, and is generally becom ,o ,mg. h One shirt with three or four faney le silk.waists will answer for a whole sea -* eon. • Some of the latest styles in skirts ly show trimming in vandykes of three ;e different widths. Li The pretty girlish sashes are again e, in fuil favor with all bodices that ter er minate at the waist. Sleeves are undoubtedly smaller, and even the larger ones show a length of tightly fitting arm. Grenadines are again coming into use, and when made up over silk and trimmed.with lace they make lovely °' costumes. n" Maltese lace has returned, both for mh dress and parasols, and a nombination ie of this lace in a yellow tone with chif Ig fon is very pretty. th Printed or stamped velvets are very te much in vogue, and are easily utilized es in the ornamentation of buttons of old in style, with paste or steel. rn The new season promises to be nota IW ble for the variety of silk, though, se curiously enough, surah and Indian of silks are in little demand. m Thin gowns of muslin or lawn should ts be made with a separate foundation, id which will make them hang much ' lighter and look more filmy. Shepherd. plaid is very much in vogue, and with it comes the juaint li- old-fashioned trimming of the skirts, of with rows and rows pf the pencil vel vet. he There is but little change in the rn style of waists, a great deal of lace em ye broidery, raching, side plaiting and ribbon being employed in the make er up and trimming. ies The trimming that is being placed we ,n the bottom of the skirts would in ,Id dicate that skirts soon will be less full, he as it would be impossible to place frills dy and puffs around a very full, gored ith shirt. 'th An excellent method for renovating he and making thc party gown do double ys duty is to veillit slightly with grena ry dine of the same shade or black, with 'le- the bodice finished with a little basque a- of satin ribbon. ills The fashion of black gowns being be cut up to show an underskirt under co neath is attractive to many peopl4 and accordion plaitings of silk or lise look graceful peeping from under the on panels, while tiny ruchings of lace can >m be used to edge them instead of passe ing menterie. el. The very thin textures made over's ecolor have the thin material ruffled, uro ptufTed or plaited over the closely fit sar, ting silk lining nearly to the shoulder, sh with a round, very full palf just at the ad top,and these sleeves are altogether n prettier than the large, loose, droop 'm, ing sleeves or the huge, stiff, outstand i- ing ones. are This season it seems the thing to the have the skirts azd blonuses harmonie nan more, and the one serviceable black in- silk must be kept for the wash skirts bode or darker silk bodices. Light colored i. dressy bodices must have a lighter rers skirt than the black ones. A very ,of economical skirt is of either checkered I be or striped black and white silk; this heir harmonizes with either the black ehif orld fon or lace, as well as with the light or blright ones. have One often hesitates over a new gown ing which must be worn as what is known the as "a black suit," while considering g to its possibilities of wear. A broken the plaid is excellent for not showing soil, that and chevipt wears like iron, as does a 9 of dark gray flannel of good quality. The and always popular blue serge never lasts ting very well, but black or blue mohair ss of brilliantine is excellence in itself. It shakes off the dust, it does not wrinkle oose badly and it always has a dressed-up om- appearance which is sometimes one of I be the greastest of considerations.