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CALL FOR FAVOR Peplum Model in the Limelight Among Many Designs Be. ing Shown. INDIAN TUNIC MADE OF KIID Pottery Ornamentation ant Other Colors Add to Features of Gap ment - Fabrics That Have Nevep Beeu Considered. JTew York.-The blouse is a Sarbo lal robin. It heralds the approach of spring. It is the kind of accessory to a costume that both pleases and irri tates. That it is usually wrong is the verdict of most womel. When it As fright it is very, very right, ani that is the best that can be said for it, olb serves a prominent fashion writer. Its possibilities for evil are not line Ited. Those who recognize that the 'neckline governs the appearance of 1 the face know full well the chances for good and evil that rest in the col lar of a separate waist. There is no end to the making of blouses, as of books. No one can q cavil at the paucity of these garments. i Any shop in any town, 'at any time, is -1 An American Indian blouse of dull blueh kid embrgidered In a pottery 1 design of red and silver.. The sash I eof rd satin is knotted in front. apt to confuse a woman with the mul 1ple offerings hurled at her across the lsounter the moment she asks to look at blouses. These bits of the costume are the small change of the shopkeeper. They are taken in and out of stock, off and on the counter, throughout the differ. lut months of the year. They fill in apaces. They break the monotony of business which arrives between the periods of high pressure. It is not true that what a woman wants she an always get in this department of tress, but it is overwhelmingly true that whatever she says she wants is answered by an avalanche of designs, offered to her as the best and the lat E#c Evil Possbilities of Blouses. Of Tpurse, there are new fashions in the blouses this spring. They have been shown to women; they have been purchased for the unusually large / exodus to the South, and they will ap peal to the majority of women during the next four weeks, when one'sI thoughts turn to the rehabilitation of the winter wardrobe, or the acquisi tion of a new one. There is no more paucity of inven tion in blouses this year than last. France and America have both done their best--and it is in this vast va riety that evil possibilities lie. If women could be trained to regard the blouse as something fatal, uiless well Chosen, they would go about the busi aess of getting together a half dozen with the precaution and precision nec essary when walking on ice. They would not buy georgette because it is fashionable, to:nato-red because it wast the style, nor would they choose g.1 loon embroidery; shoe-lace braiding or brass buttons because the deOicnr.M had chosen to exploit these caprrce:. They would go among all the maese. of wAists with the prscision of.1 bit,! flying to its nest. Ti~cy w:u!ld take the nearest straight line to what they want. If they did cot find it thly would go eIs-wls',re ; if it was net to be found in th1 shopi,, they would have it made by a specialist or a seamstress, from a well-considered pattern. The part of a. blouse that is very often fatal is the collar. There are few women who can stand more than two types of neckline. A woman abhold not rebel against this verdict. . Mbe should accept it and thus elimi ate trouble. She should experi anmet with blouses that do not carry ~her one of these necklines. She at reaember that no blouse is i~wagt its price if it hasn't the kind of ar that offsets the neckiane of her i bea- rnt also take well Into the diftelre ce between a ls .Is rto be woesn sas part JOII II~mýL= `W R fur or cloth - h et frmie* a labt. ttP-I or success in buying blouses. A worn. in must have, or must acquire, a true nowledge of the juxtaposition of fab Ics. She must know what material n a blouse goes best with the mate ial of her suit or her separate skirt nd top coat. For instance) georgette, .eaded in a bold design, does not go vith a homespun or a cheviot suit. hat is merely one example out of a ozen or two ethers that Coul4 easilg e enumerated. The truth about georgette--~caicb ts rorth repeating because the fabrie lays so dominant a role in separate louses this year-is that it looks fat getter as part of a costume than as .n addition to a coat suit. As a pep. um blouse worm with a skirt eo its wa color, *t is Iarmonious contrast e it, it is eery good; not as good as atia oe silk jersel, but commendable. t enap be ornamental, if one can adopt hat type of blouse, and even trimmed vith bea&r wPic'l is a debatable otram - ornamentation on a separate gat nent, Out Sot impossibl 3 ot certai. ypes .1 wome. Because of the adoitiod of uniforms hrough the wat there is a strong se rudescence of the tailored lines hirtwalat foe eromei, especially in iorizo blu4e shrimp pint and dead vhite edged with color. These have ucked fronts, long plain soeeves, segn ation armholes, turnover cuffe with Ink buttons and the collat of a rrench student of the Second Empire. Women have fount that * golling ollar with a slight bit of starch, worn 'ith a cravat, is an attractive neck ne. Only the eery young woman lith a slim, smooth neck can attempt be high turnover collar, either starch d op soft,. Below a face that shows he marks oa time this collas is iryos ible. Blouses as aPat of 6obtumen When the French designers made he peplum blouse and then sat back a watchful waiting foe its success, vhich took long to eome they created omething that was very worth while. Lmerican women see the light today, nd they grasp with eagerness the pos ibilities of this outside tunic blouse. It is difficult to persuade a certain et of women that there are other ypes of blouses Nothing could in luce them to return to the kind that tcks in under the skirt belt. They eel they have eliminated this awk vard line around the middle of the Body, and they choose all their blouses .fter the tunic pattern, whether for ailroad suits or for service with a eparate skirt under a fur coat. It is sometimes permitted to tuck the pack of the blouse under the skirt, pro Ided there is a front panel that drops, pron-wise, below the waist, and an rnamental belt which runs from each ide of it to the back. This is the •ost ingenious compromise between he new and the old blouses. louse Inspired by American Indian. Fabrics are now chosen for these unic-like garments that have never een conSldered in the making of short hirtwaists. Kid, for instance. That s a material unheard of among the reavers as part and parcel of wom n's apparel. Yet the new kid tunic louses, sent from France and copied a this country, are excessively smart ad betterliked by certain well-dress d women than the hip blouses of carn al cloth worn during the midwinter. These kid tunics make a woman look withoa narrow dull-silver cord. amazingly litke her Indian predeces sors in this country. C. "r, s ;kins are chosen, and on dark surfaces there is i an ornamentation such as the Indians I put on their pottery. To.,.,. :e dark Pplue kid touse worn with a black ve! veteen skirth have it ornamented in a potterdesign In yellow and black and a thread of dull -silver and yo get an amazieedngly lke her n costume. The milliners .are quite willing to mator upn these kid tunics with tur achosen, and the-woman who likes to lookis like an ornamentation eooses a trban, not - blue kid tunic worn with a black vel potter design in yellow and black andt exceedingly Ingenious costume. k, b Ia tafieta, with upstanding ITO SAVE MATERIAL Negligees May Easily Be Made From Ramnants, Oiseared eveniag towns Also Offe 6xcellent Materials fto the raslho ioniag of Such Garmetts. Weise a few Sards of llaterial Pict. ed up at a very low figure on a ren Rant counter cas be turned late a charming gowa for bome wear there seems to be si excuse for a woman disregarding the feelings of he eown family by wearing somethiLg that Is unbecoming, balf worn or soiled It is so easy for a woman to express her eal indisi ?jality in these items of In-time apparel that the temptattoS to possess a number ef them is strong with the average really fenimine typo ef woman A couple et widths of uich irocade aral be transfolrned into a toveTy gown. by the simple procese of cutting e. opening in the tenter so that the bead saay be slipped through. inish ing this eeatly, of course; catching the niaterial together enderneatl the arms and allowing the front and back panets thus formed to flare as they will ever a slip of soft chiffon or Yace. O)r two or three widths of chiffon in contrasting colors anap be laid one over the other, the underneath sec tion being full-figure length, the mext one a trifle shorter, and so eo, and Negligee of Satin and Lace. possibly a lace scarf topping the whole. A charming robe d'interiot Is the result. The sketch shows a simifte and graceful negligee made of lavender satin, with front and back panels laid In large tucks. An old-fashioned lace shawl draped about the shoulders completes the garment. Of course it is not essential that a shawl be used, and, instead of lace, a brocade or a figured silk voile may be used foe the coatee. Discarded evening dresses often of fer excellent materials for thek fash ioning of negligee garments and, re gardless of the fact that we are no longer at war, fabric saving is ad visable. There is no prospect of an immediate reduction in prices and until France and Belgium are again able to produce textiles it is not like ly that either prices or supply will re turn to normal. FASHIONS IN BRIEF The new fur coats are circular. Cord belts of gold are being worn. Evening wraps still blouse at the back. The oval necks appear on tiny girls' party frocks. A graceful negligee of peach blos som satin has an odd silk-tasseled hood. A gown of mauve tulle is orna mented by a large orange rose at the girdle. A perfect gown for a woman in the thirties is of gold cloth, veiled with black net. Black tulle is often worn over gold lace, making a simple but excellent evening gown. The long-waisted bodice of black jet starts nmany a frock of* black welvet on its happy way. A most beautiful cape is of sap phire-blue sa:tin banded deeply with old-blue broaidcloth. Handkerchilcf linen frocks for morn ing wear in the South have nothing but hemstitching for decoration. A traveling costume of green velours has a shawl collar of monkey fur and a silver-buckled leather belt. A Little Advice From a Buyer. Here is what experience has taught one buyer of coats and suits and dresses: First, get that which is be coming, for the really becoming frock is never out of style. At least, there are always occasions when the becom ing garment can be worn, whether or not it is this season's or last year's. Seek the color that is most favorable to you, and avoid the one that is not especially so, no matter how smart you may think it appears. Then, in general, if you really must, get the odd ,nd unusual garment. Through the I Looking Glass By EYELYN 1ESBt? Wthy Roes Phre LtrnwP ,o ?ongeP elig tp his fieldr wit I. o lp:i!e9 rP \J eloes the buildefr n(o longer msnake his ow brticets of straw? Why don't we walk i0nr New . olk to Washiigton? Why? Beca4se we have improved. Mee are too eleven to waste their time and einer.g making pies by ands or splittlin rails with an ax the way Abrahals Liecolm lid. L.a. lot saving man. chinery has been . devised to release sa .... maen's energies for ''::::: : better things. The men wiue ased to pound out laile witl a ammmer, and tura out one mait its five minutes, are tending machines that yproduce thou sands of mails iu the thine they could -nake one nail by hand. So it is with everything in industry. ¶'hat is why the modern farmer cas cultivate thousands of acres of land in the time he used to spend oa his tiny back yard: why the builder can construct skyscrapers instead of tit tle houses, and why we travel from New York to Washington il speeding express trains. That is why the hwomes of today are Yearning, and thinking. Labor-saving mnachinery has crept Into the home to make possible for every woman leisure hours in which to read and study. Any woman who dloes not avait hxltself sof the new de vices is as foolir: 1 as the carpenter (iuld be to cat elown trees and saw them by hand into boards before be set to work to buid a cottage. put a tireless c.,olkel into your ditch e.. !Iake rse of electricity .the way metn do it indlustry, and see how mucla more yorl will .tr* inle to accomplisth wvitl less effort. Get Vacuum clean ers to save yoour ?tacks. met an elec trit washing machine to save your hands for piano niaying. Stop knead. ing lough and get a broad mixer. Elec tric irons, powecr ewing machines, were not inventeo as a luxury. They are hern to help women. Use them. $e as progressive as the blacksmiths end the pii makers. FINISIING OFF THE EDD:ES Machine Zigzag Stitching, Battlemen. effect, Ruffling or Plaiting, Add to the Decoration. the edges of things, or 9ather the way those -edges are finished, make such a difference. This is particularly true of bundles. And yet, avhen you stop to consider how little real time and trouble it takes to add a row of broken stitches in groups of three, as compared with the charming effective mess of the finished garment, the won der of it is that atore attention isn't given to the "edges.' Here are but a fwv of the lovely things that can do duty as decoration, as well as finish: Machine hemstitch ing worked zigzag, hemstitching in battlement effect, cuffing or plaiting of net in white or color, easy stitches, and tinted laces. It is an easy matter to pencil off an irregular line for the hemstitcher to follow; and that is perhaps the very easiest finish of all. But the tinted lace qnd net idea is quite the newest and most effective. Both are seen usually done in tiny, tiny plaits. Among the easy stitches which are always effective and pretty nearly al ways within the vogue, come French knots worked in groups of three, al ternating short and long blanket stitch, long horizontal stitches inter spersed with squares or dots worked solid, and the aforementioned straight stitches worked in threes. These are especially decorative done on the slant, the stitches graduating or alternating in length. ADVANCED SPRING STRAW HAT This model, a winsome' design, is of navy blue pineapple straw, and Is cherry trimmed. New Touches in Embroidery. The newest thing in children's dresses are those trimmed in hand em broidery, often in some figure or pic tare such as a flower pot or the pope Slr Nenette and Rintintin. MAY ThAS WOMEN Plan to Develop Them Same as Men in War Camps. -overnment Cantonments to Be Used and the Work Extended to verF Part of Country. WVomen will be trained in govern ment cantonments if plans of the Uni ted States training corps for women are carried out. The corps, organized for women war workers in Washing ton, under the direction of Miss Su sanna Cocroft of Chicago, has been turned into a permanent organization for building up women physically and fitting them for the places they are taking in business, industry and in the work of the nation generally. Admiral Cary T. Grayson will act as medical director of the corps. On the board of directors with Miss Cocroft are Surgeon Genera? Rupert Blue. Gen. Enoch Crowder, Brig. Gen. J. F. Kerr, Mrs. Robert Lansing, wife of the sec retary of state; Miss Mabel T. Board man of the American Red Cross, Mrs. Franklin K. Lane, wife of the secre tary ef interior; Miss Gertrude Lane, well knowa magazine editor, and Ju _ius Kahn, chairman of the military affairs committee of the house of rep resentatives. Permission has been asked of the war department for the use of a part of the cantonments when they are re leased from military service for use as training camps where women can be trained as teachers of setting-up exer cises and semi-military drills. These teachers will be equipped to give training in industrial plants and pub lic schools. The corps has also asked for the release of a part of the canton ments for recreation camps, where physicians can send women and chil dren who do not need medicine so much as they need conditioning. The original training corps in Wash ington numbered more than 3,500 war working women. It was organized on the White House lot and the war de partment detailed 75 army officers to assist Miss Cocroft. The work will be extended to every part of the country, modeled after the system which has developed the men in the war training camps, except that it will be made specially suited for the training of women. In announcing the purpose of the corps, Miss Cocroft, its organizer and director, said: "We wish to utilize the knowledge of what the camps have hone for men, mentally and physically, and to apply this same knowledge to the conditioning of women while the public mind is quickenel to this util ity, so that all men and women, the young, the middle-aged, the old, may be given -n opportunity to benefit by outdoor life regularly supervised and trained under semi-military discipline and under the supervision of compe tent medical and nursing assistance." GRACEFUL FOR THE BALLROOM I This rich gown is carried out entire. ly of gold brocaded metal cloth draped into long, graceful lines. _-- j.---- Protect Lace. Many of the black gowns are of lace-and sometimes black chantilly is mounted over wvite satin. This is very distinguished when the lace is new, but chantilly which is an heir loom should never be put over white or any light tint. The old, if rare, lace tears easily, and any mending of the fabric, however delicately done, shows up unpleasantly against the light lining. It is always best to mount valuable old laces over a "drop" of tulle or to veil the lace frock with tulle'if this can be done without sp fag the design add the lines. FOR ADVANCED SPRING WEAR I .. firf:: An attractive blue duvetyn trotteur costume with chenille embroidered vest and sleeve of henna crepe. BLACK AND WHITE REVIVED Magpie Combination Part of New Craze for Bright Colors--French plue ts Popular. The revived interest in the black and white er magpie combination is really part of this new craze for bright colors, for as far as the effect is concerned black and white in comn bination has nothing to do either with all black or all white, and it is sure to come to the foreground only in sea* sons when women of fashion go in for bright, high colors. During the war little of it was seen. It was too vivid, too striking, too gay. But with the new interest in bright hugs it has come to its own and is 1 hmnd 9 be seen in many of the new frocks nd may find acceptance in some of the midseason millinery. Because of the sentiment connected with French blue and the actual fact that it is very becoming to most wom en, the dressmakers are bringing out accessories in this color. There are French blue handkerchiefs, slippers and stockings; there are blouses of it made of handkerchief linen; and one of the foremost designers of tailored suits in the country uses French blue blouses frilled from neck to waist un der suits of covert cloth. BORROWED FROM RUSSIAN Table Linen Designs Showing Semi Barbaric, but Pleasing, Popular in Needlework World. A vogue for table linen showing the semi-barbaric, but wholly pleasing, de signs used by Russian peasants is mak ing itself felt in the needlework world. The stitches are simple in the extreme, something like our own attractive cross-stitch, but outlining squares, tri angles, etc. They are used for conven tional borders and small all-over pat terns which resemble woven figured material. As for the color, it is usually a mono tone, a dark red, for instance, or a blue, while the background is a loose weave linen. Often they are worked with a punched-work background done with a thread to match the linen. A little black worked in with either the red or the blue is pleasing but not quite se true % the original Russian scheme. O)ften a dark green is com bined with the red The edges of the pieces acR jemmed and a buttonhole stitch taken ever the entire hem. NEW SLTPW iF SILVER CLOTH Popula. daement Very Decollete and Sleeveless. Kept on by Faith dInd Tiny Ribbcn. Some new slis to be worn in thcme petticoatless 'imes are made of :ivcer cloth, very decoliete. and i.-.. il's, of course. 'awith, hope and a tiny nia:-n'.r;v ribbon across t¶he shoullcrs kIp i.'m in place. anyway, they are ci.-;i ;tly desirable, as they fall from the -boul ders to the knee and serve as camisole and petticoat, too. 'One of black shadow lace will be welcomed for wear with the fashion able black evening gown, and one of real Brussels lace is charming for a white dancing frock or for a bride. Until the laundry situation returns to normal, the cotton crepe undergar ment will enjoy deserved popularity. A camisole and a robe de nuit of white cotton crepe make a useful and attrac tive set. Just at the front of the yoke of each is appliqued a pink satin rose. Neither garment has sleeves and both have peolted shoulders.