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The Celina Democrat. (Celina, O. [Ohio]) 1895-1921, September 06, 1918, Image 3

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn88077067/1918-09-06/ed-1/seq-3/

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Synopsis. Fired by tlio sinking of the Lusltnnlu, with the loss of
American lives, Arthur Guy Empcy, nn American living in Jersey City,
goes to England nnd enlists ns n prlvute in the Uritlsh iinny. After n
short experience as a recruiting officer in London, he Is sent to train
ing quarters in France, where he first hours the sound of big guns and
makes the acquaintance of "cooties." After n brief period of training
Empey's compuny Is sent Into the front-line trenches, where he tukes
his first turn on the fire step while the bullets whiz overhead. Empcy
learns, as comrade fulls, that death lurks always In the trenches.
Chaplain distinguishes himself by rescuing wotindwd men under hot
fire. With pick nnd shovel Empcy has experience as a trench digger
In No Man's Lund. Exciting experience on listening post detail. Ex
citing work on observation post duty.
CHAPTER XVI Continued.
"Cnssell had n fancy for that par
ticular blonde. The answer came back
In the shape of n volley of cusses. I
changed the subject.
"After b while our talk veered
round to the way the Boehes bad been
exposing themselves on the road down
on the chart as Target 17. What he
said about those Roches would never
have pnssed the reichstag, though I
believe It would have gone through
our censor easily enough.
"The bursting shells were making
such a din that I packed up talking
and took to watching the captain. lie
was fidgeting around on nn old sand
bag with the glass to his eye. Occa
sionally he would let out a grunt, nnd
make some remark I couldn't hear on
account of the noise, but I guessed
what It was all right. Fritz was get
ting fresh ugaln on that road.
"Cassell had been sending in the 'tnp
code to me, but I was fed up nnd
didn't bother with It. Then he sent
O. S., and I was all attention, for this
was a call used between us which
meant that something important was
on. I was all ears in an Instant. Then
Cassell turned loose.
" 'Vnn llnnl.-atir lilnrtt.- dint f llflVP
been trying to raise you for fifteen
minutes. What's the matter, are you
asleep?' (Just ns If anyone could
have slept in that Infernal racket!)
'Never mind framing a nasty answer.
Just listen.'
"'Are you game for putting some
thing over on the Roches and Old Pep
per all in one?'
"I answered that I was game enough
when it curao to putting it over the
Boehes, but confessed that I had a
weakening of the spine, even at the
mention of Old Pepper's name.
"He came back with, 'It's so nbsurd
ly easy nnd simple that there Is no
chance of the old henthen rumbling It.
Anyway, If we're caught. I'll take the
"Under these condition 1 told him to
fplt out hia scheme. It was so daring
and simple that It took my breath
away. This is what he proposed :
"If the Roches should use that road
again, to send by the tnp system the
target and range. I had previously
told him about our captain talking out
loud as If he were sending through
orders. Well, If this happened, I was
to send the dope to Cnssell and he
would transmit It to the battery com
mander as officially coming through
the observation post. Then the bat
tery would open up. Afterwards, dur
ing the Investigation, Cassell would
swear he received It direct. They
would have to relieve him, because it
was Impossible from his post In the
battery dugout to know that the rond
was being used at that time by the
Germans. And also It was impossible
for him to give the target, rnnge and
degrees. You know a battery chart Is
not passed around among the men like
a newspaper from Blighty. From him
the investigation would go to the ob
servation post, and the observing offi
cer could truthfully swear that I had
not sent the message by 'phone, and
that no orders to flre had been Issued
by him. The, Investigators would then
be up In the air, we would be safe, the
Roches would receive a good bashing,
nd we would get our own back on Old
Pepper. It was too good to be true,
I gleefully fell In 'with the scheme,
und told Cassell I was his meat.
"Then I waited with beating heart
tnd watched the captain like a hawk.
"He was beginning to fidget again
and was drumming on the sandbags
with his feet. At last, turning to me,
he said :
"'Wilson, this army Is a blankety
blank washout. What's the use of hav
ing artillery If It Is not allowed to fire?
The government at home ought to be
hanged with some of their red tape.
It's through them that we have no
"I answered, 'Yes, sir,' and started
sending this opinion over the wire to
Cassell, but the captain interrupted
me with :
"'Keep those infernal fingers still.
What's the matter, getting the nerves?
When I'm talking to you, pay atten
tion.' "My heart sank. Supposing lie had
rumbled that tapping, then all would
be up with our plan. I stopped drum
ming with my fingers and said:
' 'Beg your padon, sir, Just a habit
with me.'
" 'And n d d silly one, too, he an
swered, turning to his glasses again.
tnd I knew I was safe. lie had not
tumbled to the meaning of that tap
ping. "All at once, without turning round,
he exclaimed :
, " 'Wll, of all the nerve I've ever run
MI) HI 1
01917 BY
across, this takes the cake. Those
Roches are using that road
again. Blind my eyes, this time it Is a
whole brigade of them, transports nnd
nil. What n pretty target for our
'4..7s.' The beggars know that we
won't fire. A d d shame, I call it.
Oh, Just for n chance to turn D 238
loose on them.'
"I was trembling with excitement.
From repeated stolen glances at the
captain's range chart, that road with
Its range was burned Into my mind.
"Over the wire I tapped, 'D 2,".S bat
tery. Target 17. Range GOOO, 3 degrees
SO minutes, left, salvo, fire.' Cassell
O. K.'d my message, and with the re
ceiver pressed against my ear, I wait
ed and listened. In n couple of min
utes very faintly over the wire came
the voice of our battery commander
Issuing the order: 'D 2;!S battery.
Salvo! Fire!'
"Then a roar through the receiver
as the four guns belched forth, a
screaming and whistling overhead, and
the shells were on their way.
"The captain Jumped as If he were
shot, and let out a great big expressive
' n, and eagerly turned his glasses
in Ihe direction of the German road.
I also strained my eyes watching that
target. Four black clouds of dust rose
up right in the middle of the German
column. Four direct hits another
record fur D 238.
"The shells kept on whistling over
head, and I had counted twenty-four
of them when the firing suddenly
ceased. When the smoke and dust
clouds lifted the destruction on that i
road was awful. Overturned limbers
nnd guns, wagons smashed up, troops
neeing In ail directions. The rond nnd
roadside were spotted nil over with
little Held gray dots, the toll of our
"The captain, In bis excitement, hnd
slipped off the sandbag, and was on
his knees in the mud. the class still nt
his eye. He was muttering to himself
and slapping his thigh with his dlsen
gaged nand. At every slap a big
round Juicy cuss word would escape
irom nis lips followed by:
"'Good! Fine! Marvelous! Pretty
NorK! Direct hits all.'
"Then he turned to me nnd shouted
"'Wilson, what do you think of It?
Did you ever see the like of It In your
lire? D n fine work, I call it.'
"Pretty soon a look of wonder stole
over his face nnd he exclaimed :
"'But who in h 1 gave them the
order to fire. Range nnd everything
correct, too. I know I didn't. Wilson
did I give you any order for the bat
tery to open up? Of course I didn't,
did I?'
I nnswered very emphatically, 'No,
sir, you gave no command. Nothing
went through this post. I nm abso
lutely certain on that point, sir.'
Of course nothing went through,'
he replied. Then his face fell, and he
muttered out loud:
But, by Jove, wait till Old Pep
per gets wind of this. There'll be fur
Just then Bombardier Cassell cut in
on the wire :
"'General's compliments to Captain
A . He directs that officer and sig
naler report at the double to brignde
headquarters as soon as relieved. Re
lief now ou the way.'
"In an undertone to me, 'Keep a
brass front, Wilson, and for God's
sake, stick.' I answered with, 'Rely on
me, mate,' but I was trembling all over.
"I gave the general's message to the
captain, and started packing up.
"The relief arrived, and as we left
the post the captain suid:
" 'Now for the fireworks, and I know
they'll be good and plenty.' They were.
"When we arrived at the gun pits
the battery commander, the sergeant
major and Cassell were waiting for us.
We fell In line nnd the funernl march
to brigade headquarters started.
"Arriving at headquarters the bat
tery commander was the first to be
Interviewed. This was behind closed
doors. From the roaring and explo
sions of Old Pepper It sounded as If
raw meat was being thrown to the
Hons. Cassell, later, described It ns
sounding like a bombing raid. In about
two minutes the officer reappeared.
The sweat was pouring from his fore
head, and his face was the color of n
beet. He was speechless. As he
passed the captain he Jerked his thumb
In tho direction of the lion's den and
went out. Then the captain went In,
and the Hons were once again fed.
The captain stayed about twenty min
utes and came out. I couldn't see his
face, but the droop In his shoulders
was enough. He looked like a wet hen.
'The door of the general's room
opened and Old Pepper stood In the
doorway. With a rour he shouted:
"'Which one of yon Is CasseM
I n me, get your heels together
when I speak ! Come In here I
"Cassell started to say, 'Yes sir.'
"But Old Pepper roared. 'Shut up!'
"Cassell come out In five minutes.
He said nothing, but as he passed me
he put his tongue into his cheek and
winked, then, turning to the closed
door, ho stuck his thumb to his nose
nnd left,
"Then the sergeant major's turn
come. Ho didn't come out our way.
Judging by tho roaring, Old Pepper
must hnvo eaten him.
"When the door opened and the gen
eral beckoned to me, my knees started
to play 'Home, Sweet Home' agulnct
each other.
"My Interview was very short.
"Old Pepper glared at me when I
entered, and then let loose.
" 'Of course you don't know anything
about It. You're Just like tho rest
Ought to have a nursing bottle around
your neck and u nipple In your teeth.
Soldiers by gad, you tur.n my stom
ach to look at you. Win this war,
when England sends out such samples
ns I hnve In my brigade! Not likely I
Now, sir. tell me what you don't know
about this nffalr. Speak up, out with
It. Don't be gaping at me like a fish.
Spit It out.'
"I stammered, 'Sir, I know absolute
ly nothing.'
"'That's easy to see,' he roared;
'that stupid face tells me that. Shut
up. Get out; but I think you are n
d d liar Just the same. Back to
your battery.'
"I saluted and made my exit.
"That night the captain sent for us. j
With fear and trembling we went to j
his dugout. IIo was alone. After so- :
luting we stood at attention in front I
of him nnd waited. Ills say was short.
" 'Don't you two ever get It Into your
heads that Morse Is a dead Inngunge.
I've known It for yenrs. The two of
you had better get rid of Hint nervous
habit of tapping transmitters; It's dan
gerous. That's all.'
"We saluted, nnd were just going out
the door of the dugout when the cap- i
tain called up back nnd said:
'"Smoke Golrtflakes? Yes? Well, i
there are two tins of them on my table. ;
Go hack to tlie battery, nnd keep your I
tongues between your teeth. Under- j
stand?' i
"We understood. '
"For five weeks afterwards our bat- i
tery did nothing but ex'.rn fatigues. j
We were satisfied and so were the i
men. It was worth U to put one over
on Old Pepper, to say nothing of the ;
Injury caused to Fritz' feelings." !
When Vil.oii had finished his story '
I looked up and the dugout was
Jammed. An artillery captain nnd two !
officers had also entered nnd stayed
for the finish. Wilson spat out an !
enormous quid of tobacco, looked up,
saw the captain, and got ns red as n
carnation. The captain smiled nnd
left. Wilson whispered to me:
"Rlimo me, Yank. I see where I click
for crucifixion. That captain Is tho
same one that chucked us Goldfiakes
In his dugout and here I hnve been
'chucking me weight about In his
hearing.' "
Wilson never clicked his crucifixion.
Empcy tells of a narrow es
cape in the next installment.
Fortunately Hamilton Mabie Was Well
Able to Appreciate Unconscious
Humor of the Children.
The lute Hamilton W. Mabie, the
well-known American essnylst, was
one of those genial men who enjoyed
a joke on themselves. Illustrating this
phase of Mr. Mable's character, it Is
tloif ii-hun tin ivau n Kfilrtanf Mr.
Mabie made an address in which he!
told this story:
He had visited a school In Phlladel
plila In which there wns a daily fire
drill. The teacher regularly asked the
students, "Children, what would you
do If lire were to break out In this
building?" The children all repeated
In chorus, "We would rise In our
places, step Into the aisle, and march
quietly out of the building." On the
morning when Mr. Mabie visited the
school, while he was sitting quietly on
the platform, the teacher stepped be
fore the pupils and said, "Children,
what would you say If I were to tell
you that Mr. Mabie Is to speak to you
this morning?" The children prompt
ly replied In chorus, "Wo would rise
In our places, step into the nlsle, and
march quietly out of tho building."
"Land of Lanterns."
Among the Chinese there has exist
ed for ages a passion for fireworks nnd
lanterns. In every city, at every port
and on every river and canal, as soon
as night comes on, the lanterns make
their nppearnnce. They are hung out
at the door of every dwelling; they
swing as pendants to the angles of the
pagoda ; they form the fiery crown of
every shop front; they cluster round
the houses of the rich and light np
the hovels of the poor; they are borne
with, the carriage of the traveler, and
they swing from the yards and masts
of his vessel.
They Sure Would.
nomer V. Winn wns talking before
the Indlnnnpolis Advertisers' club
about salesmanship, recently, and com
mented on the fact thut salespeople
were too often- unnatural.
"Even the merchant himself Is often
unnatural," the speaker snld. "He
does not act In his store us he does at
"And If some of them did," comment
ed one of the women members of the
club, "they'd drive their last customer
First Springs Used on Railways.
The first record of the use of springs
on railways Is Georgo Stephenson's
patent of September, 1816. The first
locomotive with steel springs was the
Agenorla, built by Foster and Rastrlck
In 1820. and now In South Kensington
museum, London. This hnd laminated
springs on the leading wheels.
Hide Picture Wires.
Never, If you can help It, hang pic
tures so thnt the wires will show, and
do let the pictures hang against the
wall as If they were really and truly
m - i.- . j jm l i fr . m
Helping the Heat and Milk Snpply
, 1
(Bpoclal Information Bervlco, United huitaa Department of Agriculture.)
4 X
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A-tatfSJW- . - II
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W'.lr.-i 'L5-Xv
These Ewes Have Been Cared
Autumn Is Most Favorable Time
for Making Start, Says
Agricultural Department.
Good Grade Ewes and Pure-Bred Ram
Are Best for Beginners Consider
Class of Pasture and Feeds
Sheep husbandry on furms can do
much to relieve the threatened Inade
quacy of the wool production In the
United States. The farmer who will
start and cure for a new flock this
fall will have a patriotic part In meet
ing the country's need for more wool
to equip our soldiers und sailors.
Late summer or early fall Is the
most favorable time to make a start
in sheep raising. Ewes can be pro
cured more readily at this time, and
when purchased can be kept on mead
ows, grain stubble fields, or late-sown
forage crops, to get them hi good con
; dition for breeding. Experience with
the ewes through fall and winter will
i ittso render a beginner more capable
j of attending to them at lambing time,
; It Is seldom possible to buy any con
j sideruble number of bred ewes at rea
sonable prices.
Selection of Stock.
i The inexperienced sheep raiser
should begin with grade ewes of the
j best class available and a pure-bred
i ram. The raising of pure-bred rams
can best be undertaken by persons ex
i pcrienced In sheep raising. The selec
; t Ion of the type and breed of fheep
should be niiide by considering the
class of ptisture und feeds available
and the general system of farming to
be followed, along with the peculiari
ties of the breeds and the conditions
and kind of feeding nnd management
for which each has been especially de
veloped. It Is highly advantageous for all, or
"'Uty, of the farms In a neighbor
hood, to keep the same breed of sheep,
I or at least to continue the use of rams
! of the same breed. After a decision
I has been made as to a suitable breed,
the aim should be to obtain ewes thnt
! are individually good mid that have as
ri 11 ii niinL'ki iu ttu Titr o 1 1 il 1 if l-i r hrnoil
selected. With such a foundation und
the continuous use of good pure-bred
rains of the same breed, the flock will
make continuous Improvement. In
looking for ewes of desired types and
breeding it will often be found impos
sible to get them near at home at a
reasonable price. Ewes from the West
ern ranges can be obtained directly
from a stockyard market. For the
most part the range ewes ure of
Merino breeding. First-class ewe
lambs, and less often older stock bred
on the range and sired by rams of the
down or long-wool breeds, are some
times obtainable. These, or even the
Merino ewes, furnish u foundation for
the flock that can be quickly graded
up by using rums of the breed pre
ferred. The lambs from Merino ewes
nnd mutton rams grow well nnd sell
well if well cared for, but the yield
Is less than when ewes with some
mutton blood are used. The sheep
from the range are less often Infest
ed with internal parasites than are
farm sheep, and In the large shipments
there Is opportunity for closer selec
tion. Young Ewes Preferred.
Tenrling or two-year-old ewes are
preferable to older stock. Ewes with
"broken mouths" that Is those that
have lost some of their teeth as a re
sult of age can be purchased cheaper
than younger ones, but are not good
property for Inexperienced sheep rais
ers. In buying ewes, particularly those
from the range, It Is desirable, when
possible, to examine the udders to see
thnt they are free from lumps that
would prevent the ewes from being
milkers. It Is necessary to guard also
against buying ewes that are useless
Corn silage is equivalent in feeding
fattening cattle to about two-11 ft lis of
Its weight of good alfalfa or clover
The Importance of keeping hogs free
from worms should not be overlooked.
Worms are a great curse to the swine
grow ing business.
I :- - - . ' '""" " nttMim
?J' '
' S?''
fty Z&l - A
't,v jv - ,? -V3
Gfti S W "t?'!
Vi'" !Tt'!ri
' ' ' JiwJW
. V. ." '
i; 'L"-tt,ivi.' ,v
for to Produce Good Fleece.
as breeders, because of the ends of
the teats having been clipped off ul
Size of Flick.
Persons wholly Inexperienced with ,
sheep will do well to limit Ihe size of
the flock at the start. A beginner can
acquire experience quite rapidly with '
8 or 10 ewes. It is very doubtful, how- ',
ever, whether anyone should make a '
i tart with sheep unless the arrange-
ment of the farm and the plan of lis :
operation ullnw the keeping of as many j
as .10 ewes, and In most cases (in or
more will be handled better and more
economically than 11 very small flock.
The economical disadvantage of a
very small flock lies In the fact that
the hours of labor are practically the :
same for a dozen or "0 ewes as for the
larger flock. The fencing to ullow de
sirable change of pastures or to give !
protection against dogs is about the ;
same In either case, so that the over
head charges per ewe are much small- ;
er In the case of the larger flock. Fur- 1
thermore, the small flock on a farm
having large numbers of other animals
Is unlikely to receive the study and at- :
tentlon really needed or that would be .
given to fine of the chief sources of
the farm Income
:: Start a new flock now nnd
: clothe a soldier boy for Uncle
J Sam. Twenty sheep, at least,
are needed to provide wool for
J his hat, bis shirt and socks, bis
underwear nnd blankets. I low
y many boys are you going to keep
:: warm?
Housing the Flock.
j-quipment tor ra.stng sneep on
inrrns neeo nor oe evoens vi. in m o
latitudes little Mousing is needed, and
the main need Is for fencing and pas-
tures of sufficient number nnd size to
allow frequent changing of flocks to
fresh ground to Insure health. Where
,.00. -.- ,oo;;er mm more severe, ,
buildings and sheds are necessary to
furnish protection from storms, though ;
no special provisions are needed for j
lllllllllll. l.'l IH-.-VS, KlIOO Vl-llUlilllllll, 1
und freedom from drafts are the first
requisites of buildings for sheep. Con
venience In feeding and shepherding
must also be held in mind In locating
nnd planning such buildings or sheds.
Small flocks can be cared for In sec- 1
tions of barns having stabling or feed
storage for other stock, but with a
flock of, say, 100 ewes separate build
ings are desirable. The interior ar
rangement of these buildings should
be such as to require a minimum of
labor and the least possible moving of
the ewes In doing the feeding and
caring for them during the lambing
season. A building of this type can
also be utilized for fattening pur
chased lambs to be disposed of before
lambing begins In the regular farm
flock. A good supply of feed racks,
grain troughs, etc., can be provided nt
small expense and will save labor and
prevent waste of feed.
Fall Feeding for Sheep.
Stubl-le and stalk fields may well
form the principal means of suste
nance for the breeding flock in the fall
If they are used before the rains In
jure their feeding value. Fence strips
in plowed fields may also give good
grazing for a few days. Clover and
grass pastures may well be left until
the stubble and stalk fields have, been
used. For regions where the winters
are open, a heavy stand of well-cured
bluegrass will help very much In
carrying the flock through the winter
In good condition. Green rye pastures
in the late fnll give considerable suc
culence and furnish exercise for the
flock. In the South velvet beans will
be found of grent help In carrying
the flock Into January.
Milk Is Nature's Food.
It Is very difficult to compnre foods
on the basis of mineral matter they
contain, but all physiologists agree
that milk is very valuable from this
standpoint. It Is food prepared by
nnture especially for the growth and
development of the young. A quart
of milk n day Is a good allowance for
n growing child.
Alfalfa, blue grass, clover, cowpeas,
rape and soy beans nil make valu
able pasturage for the brood sow nnd
her fall litter.
Records Indicate that mules do
more work on a given cost than cither
geldings or mares, and likewise geld
ings do more work thun mares.
Corn silage enables us to fatten cat
tle by the addition of very little grain,
say three to seven pounds per thurt
snnd-pound steer dally.
Early Buying Is
; Not Best Policy
New York. The trade, which menus
the vast multitude of people engaged in
the making and selling of women's ii
pnrt'l, has at last sounded a warning to
those who buy tint far abend of the
' seasons, Hdvlses u well-known fashion
I correspondent.
I The public bus deplored this eonill-
thin. H has been well known for )ev
I eral seasons that the average woman
i did not care to buy n straw hat In
i February ami a velvet bat in July, or
; to have all her autumn clothes offered
I to her tin.' first of Sciit tidier with the
j assurance that they were the fashions
, that would rule throughout the winter.
I She has been often betrayed, and that
; " "" " "'""
j -'''lnst tlicse who snld b.-r Ihe clolbes.
1 11 u "'" f"' "u" ""' ,r',,," '"
' turn has found Itself caught in
"', I:V.".V'-1
i r""ll"'l,,", 'l"'h Individual M struggle
! f.r success in a mahie'i- cmrary to
' the dictates of ivmmi and s,.Uicty.
i Through (Ills vel. of circiiins.ances
betrayal has not soothed her Irritation
i everyone has come to a feeling that
j something must be done in tie- i lea
1 Hon of new fashions long before the
season for which they are to lie worn,
find that the lilllilic Tinwl follow the
: n,,,., 1..1.1 .1...... 1... .1 1
Itiuht here lies the -xt raofil i n-i ry
gamble to women in leiving clothes
early in the season. Kiglit hi re lies
Hie of the gn-ntcH sources of money
wastage. Thousands of woue-n, who
have no way of knowing what the
fashions will be n-. the season ad
vances, buy what is said to be new as
the sea ion demands a change.
What they buy in September has
probably been bought by the shop In
June. To keep np with the rising tide
.if forehandeilness. the mairii'acturers
make the clothes eariiT and earlier,
nnd the ready-to-wear shops and de
partment stores, tis a rule, buy these
clothes .is early as the manni'ai turers
make them, and g"t I in-:n out tit He
very moment there is n slight demand
for them.
What happens?
In October and in April the real
fashions come out for each season.
Hundreds of women -nay, thousands
are faced with the l'.ict that they have
bought gowns, or wraps, or hats that
not In keeping with tho new
clothes. They have bought clothes ar
ranged sis months before the authen
tic exhibitions of new and seasonable
What happens next ?
The woman who can possibly scrape'
up enough money to buy a now outfit i
does so, and she also .spend-; extra
money on a seamstress er little dress- j
maker to have ln-r other clothes re- i
modeled. Therefore, she spends twice
h'-r allowance on clothes. ,
Panic Has Produced Careless Buying.!
Many of the traders in apparel real- '
i7o that panic and a form of coiiuner- j
rial hysteria have resulted in a large !
amount of early buying, which Is not j
(air either to the individual or to roin- j
1 ,.111,1 i" in- muii .Minn "i 1 " . .
merce. Every shot r has shared the
1 to .vn.i,-..nii in ,'.mf ,.p !..
i ig t,,hl that if is wise to buy at once
I the articles needed, because they might
not . obtainable at a Inter day.
This litis resulted in a certain meas
ure of hoarding, which tin- government
,ot ; f()()(j u ,ms ,llrPn,lv
iu N1.V(.r wufil. f dividual
m,)m,v Wom(M1 .,. jf
,M ,.,. . ,,.
. . . - 1 ... ...
that there are Just as many to be had
lis six months ago, and that the shape
und texture have changed.
' It would be a far wiser method of
spending one's money to buy a little.
at the necessary time, representing the
best there is ut that moment.
There will always be material of
Figured Chiffon and Ribbon Are Ef
fectively Used in Some of the
Latest Creations.
We run to sets of clothes nowa
days. We have sets consistitig of
muff, hat and collar; of collar, hat
and knitting bag; of parasol, knit
ting bag iind hat: of bat, ruff and
parasol. We have sets consisting of
ulntost any two or three of the
garments er accessories that go to
make up our daily quota of dress.
And now some of the little spe
cialty shops that go in for the new
est tilings are showing sets consist
ing of skirt ami hat. One such set
Is made of figured chiffon and wide
ribbon. The ribbon is bright green,
and the chiffon is bright green and
dull gray, with flecks of yellow and
touches of black. The skirt consists
of wide strips of chiffon six inches
wide perhaps between equal widths
of ribbon, running of course round
about. The hat is made of the silk
over a buckram frame, with flat points
Linen Sport Hats.
A sport sailor Is tall of crown with
a straight brim slightly wider at the
front than at back or sides. Crown
nnd brim are of blue handkerchief
llncu, embroidered in darker blue cot
ton, in ti design that suggests the
Mended blues of Japanese pottery. The
brim Is faced with blue straw and 1
around the base of the crown is tied a
blue conl with chenille ball tassels.
The hat is shown also in pale yellow
linen embroidered wirti orange and
faced with black straw, and in white
linen embroidered iu green with a
green straw facing ; but the blue mod
el, because of its suggestion of blue'
chlnnware, Is most novel and capti
vating. The Service Gown.
At last I For years women have
been experimenting and searching in
the dark for the ideal dress for all
occasions, and now it is alleged that
certain 1 Jos ton women have found
It. A newspaper report s.tys that 11
group of ltostoa women hnvo for
s.-me time been studvlng the problem
of creating n i.'odc! dress, to embody
some kind. Kven If the world Is r
dined to whole garments of sewn fig
leaves, there Is no reason why any one
woman should wish herself out of the
picture. Let her go along with the
i in hi n't) t ii in of the hour and buy und
wear garment of fig leaves.
The public is beginning to see the
wisdom of Inlying a small amount ot
the moment It Is needed. It should be
preached in every possible form of
prnjiagnndu that this is the wise way
to live during war time. Best ussured
t lint If the public buys up all the stock
of one thing from a store, that store
will lie replenished the moment its sup
ply is exhausted.
m niiie, mere are women who ui-
I v.,1Vf. ,1,.,.,,,, ,,!!, v- Thev prefer to
I li!,v-:i l,:",lv 111 ',1,s'
I fav,i,.u. If they ure sure that every
i thread U !lk or ..i, iis ihe case may
.. j;,,, ,. majority of women are
,M,t in.-liui-l iunl ace. ,, ling that sys-
),., nf dr-s.
Tln-refi.n-. let us sl:;rt out in a new
( !' course, there lire women who al
Then-fore, let us start out in a new
measure of reform, as soon as this
month If over, and lace September
with no 1 b-ii of rushir.g Into shops and
buying everything that is offered be
cause it is labeled --.ev ." Maybe it is.
and maybe it isn't, lint a feeling of
panic among buyers that now is the
only chance to get enough clothes to
carry one through tin- winter, results
iu the et-y thing that the government
desires most to see avoided reckless
spending of money. So buy shrewdly,
and not for hoarding.
if there is to in- economy in clothes,
let It begin this week. It is at this
time, between tin-seasons, that a wom
an can take thought of her wardrobe
and twist and turn if a rding to pre
vailing fashion, in a way that will serve
her until styles are more settled. Then,
when she has to buy lunch, she will
buy wisely and well.
Help in Remodeling Clothes.
Here are some pr phecies that tuny
help you to be economical and wise,
fine of tliem sounds like the tirst aid
to an injured wardrobe. It comes di
rect from Paris. It is that checks,
stripes and mosaic blocks are widely
worn in w hole suits and parts of suits.
Can you imagine any piece of new
more gratefully received than that
which gives a woman a chance to make
a new coat to tin old skirt, or the
other way around?
There tire colored stripes on n white
background, made of heavy woolen ma
terial and built into a skirt to he worn
with any slip-on cuirass or short jack-
t (f ( M.((, ,.,,,, vHm-
Skirts are narrow. As tin- govern
ment, will allow shoes to tie $ inches
from the ground, the skirts need not
be lengthened, for the present they
remain mode i-a'ely short. What the
near future will bring out no one can
sa y.
M-'upyright, 1ti:. hy the ! i l.ir- Xeasia
I er t'ytnlii ale.)
Vestee Is Srrart.
1 .i.-(iii.c milt- lin 111111 11 Irum 'ml' L-inil
f I1,.1,(.ri.ll. ., ,,, ,,e either a mere
strip of corded silk or a gorgeous cre
ation fashioned from cloth-of-gold or
Chinese brocades. In some eases,
these vests tire in reality sleeveless
tunics, which slip on over the head
and are to lie worn with or without a
jacket. An especially handsome tu
nic of this sort is one made from silk
crepe in a Paisley design, joined un
der the arms by narrow strips trim
med with buttons. Such a garment Is
essentially for country use. It is smart,
easily fashioned tit home, and, in ninny
respects, practical.
Late Fur Collar.
One of the latest fur collars is of
nutria with tassels at its square cor
ners. of folded chiffon on brim and crown
for trimming.
Two-Tone Negligees.
There is n veritable rage for two
tone negligees, orchid and pink, blue
and maize, pink and blue, violet and
white, gray nnd rose, and so on. The
usual way is to have the satin slip
of white or flesh tone, topped by ;i
filmy overslip of two colors in georg
ette or chiffon. The slip may be loose
ly belted, but ordinarily the over-drapery
falls iu opalescent folds from
shoulder to ankles.
Clean Corsets.
Corsets may be denned at home by
laying on a marble-topped wash stand
and brushing with a stiff brush and
good white soap and water. Finally,
dip the brush into clear warm water
and scrub again; then dry with rough
Girdle Variety.
Cirdles are allowed to take all sorts
of liberties by the designers of smart
costumes, and one never can tell how
or where they may be found.
economy and durability, and still be
becoming to the wearer. The ap
parel that these women hope may
become more or less standard Is
known as the "service gown" and it
may be of silk, cotton, or mohair,
but never of wool, as the conserva
tion of that material is one of the
chief purposes of the movement.
the question of color is left to In
dividual taste. The gown is designed
for all ages, is easy to adjust, is void
of triinmlugs, is constructed along sen
sible lir.es. nnd adapted to stout or
slender women. Moreover, it may be
worn for various occupational pur
poses. Demand for Fancy Fabrics.
A prominent cloth manufacturer o
Hradford. England, addressing a meet
ing of the Textile society of that city,
predicted ft great demand for fnncy
fabrics after tho war by women ul!
over the world.
Galatea Cloth Used.
There Is a great deal of galatea clots
used In, -W Ul'"," girls' servlc

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