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tJUW-JHH A. - T-a? ' r. a v 5. fisraw ftafiasn-ra v j9 rr 'v-z ! 4W 6 wtofe 1 -St I e b - u; ii S- &S1 ". tl I ifol ) "WM TiBilflRL. H . i mm. L fir f ' V liffiRm By .mIsS& v - i ISRm.wj SSnflH aKeSMPiMg.. . teti'i iiti .jHHHe " anBv Hi HHlKBKHf9R(HMHBVBSMnSEHHHi 1 . nh. ssRhX B bbBbh9bbBhkk99BgBb8wsRBBk v - ' -mw H 9BBBSBBBBBI4K!BBBanlBRK9HJlf - T '--- W W .-i:" r: ' Hf t- rr -Tuere Is a Dotc Woman. "Watch Any Group or PIceons and You "Will TainU of Some Woman Ton Knoir, Ilound, Trim, Briskly Moving. Capable. She Should Dress in One Tone, Her "Wrnps Are tons and Cloae FlttlnR. of the Same Shade a Her Go-rrn. The One-Tone Gorrn or "Wrap Causes Her to lioolc Tall and Slender, Which Is Her Ambition. Her Clothes Should Lie In Close Lines Alone Her Ftenre Her Hats Should Be Kelther Larse .tor sinsii, out oi a Size io Be Symmetrical With Her Flsnre. " !. "". uCS -v. '1 BV XPJ .-"'& r --ft w J, AS. LJ2SM viJLss t VUJ W L? '. . J1 fK 'MW- s ' -3" VJtX 1 2!S, , '- is& ', 1 JS" Ii t ""-O. -""ft "BSr. v' .. -- ?tSSr -3 1 ?' -- -)c Wi&fFt W.s: DfS -,3T. S .& SMfflMU' , rCS?8si8l- nit fMJ&M vJMMk l-tCl V- f w 4 f.' ' i j - 3". :3fc' -.-to : FC - s.wt a.s.1 rSH i , s at lJiKJ li 4. V - if iMhL. m.j& t 'J V 55 rT "t "" -m. I - w TT- n iT 5" i II ---sa. - ' .-i " MjT-t I - . . ; . i&-k -v . -t. . 3 r.t'rtS: - i- -, -- -l:, r .-",75rv w ir - fev- i-v - k X: Bi Ltwii -The Lion Womxa Is Lonsr. Lithe, '-Slumbrous, of Calm 3Ianner,aad Usually Has Dark Eyes. She Is Sever Chatty, Sut Is Fascinat ing Because Inscrutable. She Should Wear One-Tone Govrnij at 'Host, Changeable from One Shade to Another of the Same Tolor. Stripes, Plaids or Any Car. Isb BITect AVould Take Her Out of Her Type. She Should Wear Few Jewels, and the Plumes or Flowers on Her Hat Should Be it Soft. Dull Tones. 3 The Tiger Woman la a Bril liant, Showy Type. Such a Woman Should Dress, as' the Tlcex Does. Showily, la Bril liant Colors and Bizarre. Effects, s Stripes, Plaids, High Colored Checks and Combinations of Col or. The Tiger Woman, Whose Best Example Is Mary Garden, Can -to Advantage Wear the Three-Color French Type of Gown, as the ilnure. Blue and Green, or Violet, Gold and Cop per Costume. 4 The Peacock Woman Is Tall and Slender, or She May be of Ample Figure, but Slender Enough to Be Elegant. Her Keynote Is Magnificence. She Slay Wear Bright Colors, and a SInss of Them at a Time. She Is at Her Best in Striking Con trasts, as a Gown of Black and White and White wltn Many T)ahe of Bed or Gold. She Likes Hard, Brilliant Colors and Hard. Brilliant Fabrics, as Shin ing Silks and High-Lustre Sat ins. Laces if She Wears Them, Should Be of Striking Design. 5 The Cat Woman Is the Soft, Plump, (Hearthalde Type. She Looks Best in Soft Materials, as Crepe de. Chines, and She Is Xever Wrong If She Chooses the Cat Colors, Green, Gray, Yellow or Black. The Green Should Appear in Jewels, as Matrices, Cat's Eyes, Agates. If She Be So Fortunate as to Afford Them, Emeralds. Her Gowns Should Be Gray, ar of the Other Cat Colors. Feathers and Furry Ma terials Axe Becoming to Her. 9 The Canary Woman la Tiayi Dainty and Quick of Movement. She Has Small Bright Eyes. She Can Wear Bright Yellowa and Blues sad Reds and Finks. sio Color Is Denied the Canary Like Woman Except Black, Which. Would Dwarf Her and Cause Her to Look Insignifi cant. She Should Wear Tiny. Cocrnettiah Turbans, Short Skirts That Show Her Dainty Feet, and Zouare or Eton Jackets. Why Each Type of Woman Resembles Some Kind of Animal fatjo ev - Wr . H-r Mile. Anne Dancrey, the French Actress, Who Finds in Every Woman a Marked Resemblance to Some Animal. By Mile. Anne Dancrey. EVERT "woman resembles a cer tain animal and should dress according to that particular type of animal "which she resembles. Be not offended, dear madame, or rharmlng mademoiselle, tvho reads :hls. Most animals are beautiful, and vrtth beauty -which is quite their own. That, permit meJo, Inform you, is-a most important point a beauty quite their own. They do not try to dress as other animals do. Fancy the rabbit trying to drape himself in a tiger skin. Yet ivomen do quite as absurd things. I 'have seen tiger -women trying fo make rabbits of themselves and pea cock -women trying to masquerade as doves. It is the height of absurdity and the depth of vulgarity. Your "women -who are over thirty dress charmingly, but -up to that turfe their taste is in most cases atrocious. The. young girls try to make themselves look like -women of thirty or more, but -what is -worse, they try to change their type. The dainty little canary like girl tries to look as though a cat had swallowed her. "Wicked -waste of ibeauty! Confession of utter lack of sense or fitness! Every time I look at a woman I think of an animal. Bat there is in women an infinite variety of animal types. Men are more alike and fol j low but one species. Every man I ' have ever seen resembles some- breed of a dog. He may' be a greyhound, tall and slight and sharp-featured and nervous. Or he may be the op posite type the bull terrier. Recall the men you have seen and they range in resemblance between ttiese types. But women vary as greatly as does the entire animal kingdom. y There is the Hon, woman, long, lithe, calm, slumbrous. Such women have calm, dark eyes, giving the im pression of intense quiet and immense reserve strength. They are never chatty, but are fascinating because Inscrutable. Very unlike her, her antipodes in appearance and character, is the tiger woman. She is always of bril liant, showy type. Her eyes are bril liant. Her coloring is striking. The French or Italian blonde, the dark eyed, fair-haired, fair-complexloned woman, at whom every one looks as she passes, is a tiger woman. . Unlike both though vaguely sug gesting them, as. miniature may suggest a life-size painting, is the cat woman. She is of th& plump, liearthside sort She- has a gentle manner and has naturally luxurious tastes. ;She seeks the soft places of life as a vcat seeks" a cushion. She ' finds light and sunshine as a cat finds the warm place by the fire. "While often lacking energy, she has a great deal of womanly charm. You have all seen the peacock woman. She is always tall and usually slender, though she may be of the ample figure. Generally 3he is slender enough to be elegant. If not she tries to starve herself into thinness, for the peacock -voman is Inevitably vain. She is vainer than the cat woman, for the cat woman is so fond of the good things of the table that" sooner or later she per mltj herself to grow fat- The pea cock woman's keynote is magnificence The fifth variety is the dove woman. "Watch any group of pigeons and you will recall some woman you know, round, trim, brisk of move ment, capable. She is as plump as the cat woman, but more energetic and of trimmer appearance. Guns T THE advantage often gained In war by night attacks upon the enemy's iatreachmenis now seems to be offset by a German invention of guns which project searchlights instead of bul lets. These Illuminating grenades, fired into the air above where the assaulting party is supposed to be approaching under cover of the darkness, remain for some moments suspended by opening parachute attachments. During that period each throws a cone of bright light upon the earth below. The approaching, enemy Ib thus plainly revealed while the force to be attacked re mains Invisible and can stop the contem plated attack with deadly marksmanship. These illuminating grenades weigh only 14 ounces and can be attached to the muzzle of the ordinary service rifle. In projecting it into the air the butt of the rifle Is placed on the ground. There is a firing rod, weighing fen additional 4 ounces, which releases the parachute and Ignites the illuminating substance cal cium carbide. Of course, only a small number of Tifles have to be detailed for this service, and even these are immediately ready for offensive use as soon as the grenades have revealed the enemy. It will be seen that the use of this device not only renders the night attack futile when there is suffU cient warning but actually transfers the isual advantage to the force which is the Jbject of the attack. The principle of an illuminating pro- hat Shoot Searchlights Tn stea jectile was first applied to cannon'fon Ger man warships, with the parachute feature omitted the object being a floating light. On striking the water, being lighter than that element it soon came to the surface but not until wateY had been automatically admitted, producing acetylene gas burning with an Illumination equal to that of three thousand candles. Army experts consider the rifle, search light grenade the most useful adaptatlonof the principle. ' Its general adoption would bring about a general revision of tactics for operations at night Such military opera tions have long been in favor to serve various purposes, for example: To steal a march on an enemy and out-manoeuver him; to avoid the unwelcome observation of, his aerial scouts, planing at lofty alti tudes, securely immune from the fire of terrestrial marksmen; to traverse ground which offers no cover from the view and fire of the enemy In daylight; to carry on an attack commenced before dark and convert it into a successful fight to a finish during the intervening period before the following dawn reveals one's dispositions, and, more important than all, to take the enemy by surprise, and thus enhance the chances of success tenfold. An assault may be actually delivered during darkness, but the hazards of such a proceeding are so great that unless the conditions of a fire fight with the enemy have already proved adverse over the same ground in daylight or are almost certain to be so, it is usually better to accept the d of Bullets Bllillllliliiv S3fef s proportion ' of losses by the enemy's fire which may be expected In a struggle for supremacy under normal conditions by day, trusting to gun and rifle for decision, than to endeavor to gain the point by the bay onet, the greoade, and hand-to-hand fight ing, the only methods which can be re lied upon In a nocturnal melee. In cases where the night, assault is considered im perative everything is done to avoid alarm ing the enemy until the attack can close with him. Rifles are not loaded, though magazines are charged and cut-offs closed, the troopsVare given strict orders not to fire -without a distinct order, bayonets alone to be used until daylight makes it possible to aim with effect; absolute silence to be maintained until the mo ment of assault, the advance to be car ried out quietly and without rattling of accouterments. No smoking la permitted, no matches to be struck; Nearly all of these advantages of night movements and attacks seem to bo de stroyed by merely successful experiments with the, rifle grenade searchlight for it will be assumed by the commanders of the opposing forces that each is provided with this new method of turning the tables on a sleepless enemy. Night attacks 'have always been dis tinguished by their nerve-racking effect unon thn Attnflrorc Tf nan Via mnn4-j how much more nerve-racking will be the How a NiVIif Atfarlc Will T !, -xi. a unavoidable thought, or expectation, ol !?. Attack Will Lock with the being suddenly turned into illuminated Firing Powerful Illuminat- targets for an enoiny which remains in- ; ": J visible- U1B renaaes. Copyright, 1913, by the Star Company. Great Britain Eights Reserved. Rifles Attractive by reason of her tlni ness and daintiness is the canary woman. Very small,- of exquisite neatness and canary-like swiftness, she is the most petable of women, except the cat kind. Her walk Is like a hop. Her eyes are small and bright and roving. She nearly always has straight hair that she wears smooth ly upon her sleek, little head. She has wee feet and hands. She Is alert and tireless, though of small frame and fragile. Each of these women has a key note of character and appearance. The lion woman's Is quiet strength. The tiger woman's a brilliancy and wealth of color. The cat woman's is slow grace of movement and softness of outline. The peacock woman is nothing if not magnificent The dove woman is characterized by a quiet manner and soft tones In dress. The canary girl's dominant notes are daintiness and quickness. For each one of these there Is a distinctive style of dress. Classify yourself correctly and you will have no trouble to dress becomingly, for you have only to study your animal prototype and learn from it It will give you all the hints about dress you need. I, Anne Dancrey, receive more hints on dress from, the zoo than from Bhops. A lion's cage suggests more to me about my season's ward robe than does any shop window In the Rue de la Paix. I am a lion wo man. Instinctively I have always liked lions. "When a child I was taken to the zoo. I did not laugh at the antics of monkeys or try to play with the little white rabbits. The lions' brown bodies moving slowly, but with what power, about their cages, or asleep in a streak of sun shine on the floor always fascinat ed me. A lion is never fat I hate fat His body is just as heavy as it needs to be for its use no heavier. That is a hint to all women, especially women of the lion type. No woman who is fat Is beautiful. To many persons (and I am one of them) she is actually repulsive. Fat is a disease, and the fat person is unat tractive because she is not healthy. All women should be as tall as they can. Height Is beauty. Wheir Scho penauer vixpressed his contempt for "the short-legged sex" he showed also a knowledge of the fundamentals of beauty, one of which is height. Knowing myself to be a lion woman, I always wear one-tone gowns. The combinations that are now the mode are not for me, espe cially not during the day. For me mere exists but three colors by day tolack, white and blue. No matter what the season I appear only in one of these on the street or at home by day. By night I permit myself slight shadings of the same col6r. My model, the lion, seems to be of one color. Scrutinized closely it may be ;een that his dark body shades to Ighter tones. Therefore, I permit myself for evening wear "changeable" gowns, the colors sometimes called "clouded," or "shaded," as moire, silk or cloth. The lion is usually of a tawney (yel lowish brown) color, the same from mane to claws, save when the light shines straight upon him, when we see the rich yet delicate shadings of his coat. Striped or plaids or any thing of garish effect would take the Hon woman out of her type. She should wear few jewels, and if she wears plumes or flowers on her hat they should be of soft dull tones. The lion woman's dress note is ele gance. . The tiger woman, of whom Mary Garden is an example, should dress as the tiger does showily, in bril liant colors, securing bizarre effects. -Stripes, plaids, checks and combina tions of contrasting colors (as black and white, brown and gold, red and Wue, gray and yellow) she can wear with striking and becoming effect The three-tone French gown, (as the mauve, blue and green dress, the violet, gold and white, or black, cop per and green) are as though design ed for her. The tiger woman can wear big, flaring hats, slippers with dia mond or rhlnestone buckles, accord ing to her purse, and shawls aod wraps with huge patterns. She fa of the Oriental type, and Oriental effects in gowns, wraps and hats are most becoming to her. The cat woman looks best in soft materials, as crepe de chines and vel vets, and she is never wrong when she selects the cat colors (greea, gray, yellow and black) and their combina tions. SThe green should appear in jewels (as matrices, cafs eyes agates) , and, If she Is so fortunate as to af ford them, emeralds. Her gowns should be gray or of any other of the cat colors. Feathers and furry wraps seem especially her own, as is cloth with a long nap as velvet or zlbeHlne. Being a cat women she should accentuate her type, and thus furs, velvets and all materials with a soft finish will do. The peacock -woman's vardroba should be quite the opposite of that of the 1km woman. Opening the closet doors in the lion woman's apartment yon see dull, soft-hued gowns of dark colors. The peacock woman's closets reveal a very riot and splendor of color. She wears bright colors and masses of them. She should choose hard, brilliant colors, as purples and bright blues, and hard, brilliant fabrics, as shin ing silks and high lustre satins. Laees, if she wears them, must be of large, bold design, and If heavily em bossed or appliqued, the better. She may wear a scarlet velvet wrap to the opera or a cherry-colored cash mere to a dance hall on the East Side, according to her circumstances. But she need have no fear of garish, colors. They were made for her. The dove woman, of whom you have more, I understand, in Philadel phia than any other city in this coun try, instinctively wears one-tone gar ments. A gray gown of one shade, we will say, a gray bat with a wing or plume two shades darker or richer gray, and boots and stockings of the darker shade, form an ideal garb for this type. The gown of one tone causes her to look taller and slen derer, which Is her ambition. Be cause she is plurap, her clothes should lie in close lines along her figure. Her hats should be neither large nor small, but of a size to be symmetrical with her figure. The canary woman may with im punity -wear any color she fancies. She can wear bright yellows and blues, reds and pink, because she is tiny. No color is denied her except black, which dwarfs her and causes her to look insignificant. She may wear tiny, coquettish tur bans, short skirts that disclose her dainty feet, and zouave or Eton jackets. She may load her self with jewe's or none-at all. according to her tastes and purse. She has more latitude in dress than any of the other types. But shi should avoid sombre colors and, heavy wrappings, which eclipse her. For all these types one rule of dressing holds. Follow the lines of your figure cjid make your figure look as tall and slender as you can.