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EX, PASO HEBAXD
Week-End Edition, October 24-25, 1914 v4 -N- j NEW COLORS IN VOGUE Military Uniforms Inspire the Hew Frocks; The Blending of Fabrics. mWWmHWAm EW YORK Nov. 14 Naturally are In the heyday of fashion, either . " Tnnifo fnfn nntfro rnKttlireS or USed in I XI costumes desiuned under such warlike conditions as those which have existed In Paris the last few months, cannot fall to reflect the sp.nt and thought of their creators. In the gowns which have reached us since the mobilization of the army, military effects are supreme. A great deal of infantry red Is used In these gowns, blue, dust brown, and a new graj, fthich has been created and aptly named "battleship gray." This gray is the shade that the war ships are painted when in active aer- j N i JMcCili JL Smart Dress Developed In Battleship Gray Broadcloth Combined with Iflnck Satin. vice it is a color which blends with the atmosphere until before the ob server knows it the ship has faded Into the color of the fog and of the sea ard tan be seen no more. On manj of the gowns designed for Americans the brassard appears upon the sleeves. It is not applied but is a strip of cloth inserted between the upper and lower part of the sleeve on which a conventionalised symbol conjunction with j allow, pink, green. Mack or red. A stunning evening costume which reminded one of the draperies of classic Greece, was made of one entire length of cloth of sil ver wound around the figure and up ovei one shoulder in a most graceful fashion. The onlj relief from the gray coldness of the silver was a rose, shad ing fn.ni pink into red. Although skirts are widening the tight undersfc.i-t, beneath, a tunio o.. ample width, still continues tp be seen. I saw a mart afternoon dress a few days ago, worn by a charming young woman. The basque waist was of black satin wrinkling over the hips, with a collar high in the back held in place and tied high around the neck by a black elvet ribbon. The skirt was of black satin and clung close to the figure Over this was worn a redingote tunic of craquele net edged with a deep band of satin rib bon. This tunic floated away from the figure giving a breezy effect to the costume and the skirt glimmered through the sheer net in a fascinating manner. A charming little Cossack hat of black velvet was percnea siigni ly on the side of the head, on which an American beauty -ose was laid carelessly on the side, a little to the back. The Redingote and Moyen.Age styles hold sway for the street dress of serge, gabardine, rep or broadcloth. In- the dress illustrated a battleship gray broadcloth is combined with black satin. The upper dress. In one piece with the skirt, is of battleship gray broadcloth bound, on all the edges, with black braid. The inset test and the skirt is of black satin. A narrow belt of the broadcloth is placed around the dress dust below the waist A cunning little hat Is worn with the frock which reminds one of an Indian teepee with strips of stiff rib bon tied together in the center and spreading out, like similarly tied bunches of arrows. This is a unique model which is smart if placed proper ly upon the head. These days, a hat may be chic but if the wearer has not a proper sense of the correct man ner of wearing it, it might as well be a Turkish fez or an oldfashloned trl corne. New, indeed, is the second Illustra tion. The coat is of velet. with col lars and cuffs of imitation Persian lamb The lower portion Is cut ait ay. square, in the front, giving an especially- smart air to the coat. A skirt of striped serge is shown with this coat. These striped serges are soft in color and are serviceable, as well as stylish, for the separate Bkirt to wear with shirtwaists or blouses. Plaids, in the same soft and shadowy colorings are, also, shown and are roost attractive; These combine stun ningly with a corresponding plain color Wonderful evening wraps were de signed in Paris just before the mobili zation of troops, and in them are re flected the sumptuousness of the Mid dle Ages. Wonderful satins and velvets are embroidered, or brocaded, in de signs which remind one of Heraldic del ices worn on the garments of the crusaders and the robes of the clergy. A magnificent wrap of cardinal red velvet had large collar and cuffs of sable, rich in its barbaric luxurlous ness, with a cape-like panel, rounded at the bottom, falling from under the collar almost to the bottom of the wrap This cape was divided into four parts through the center, somewhat like a. crusader's shield. The peeper placing of an artificial flower Is a stunning and ultra touch, to the fall and winter frocks. The flower on the hat is oftentimes du plicated in the flower worn at the belt or on the waist. In evening frocks a flower clasps the point of the waist upon the shoulder, strands of them are used as garlands on waist or placed under tunics of chiffon or tulle, while larger, single roees are often spaced around the bottom of the tunic or skirt. Here's tke Congo Trot, tne Very Latest Dance Invented ty Joan Sawyer In This Series of Fascinating Photographs, Posed Exclusively for The El Paso Herald, Miss Sawyer With Her Partner, Nigel Barrie, Shows Exactly How to Execute the Simple Stens of the Dance. I. Beginning, .or dip step,, Hr PoH$tagostep HI Minuet circle. rp rii Trtfi B Places Funds With U. S. Ambassadors for Destitute London. Eng- Oct. :4 The "British. German Friendship society- has de cided in view of the war to dissolve and to .place its assets at the disposal of the American ambassadors in Lon don and Berlin for the support of needy British subjects in Germany and needy Germans in England. Daily Fashion Hint Correct Street Snit in Which Striped anl Plain Senge Is Combined and Trimmed Effectively 'With. Persian Lamb Cloth. Is embroidered in self color, gold or multicolors. Panne -eliet is being used for eve ning dresses, for suits and for trimming- purposes. It comes in all known rclors One of the most fashionable shades at the present time being sal mon pirk. Even tneMirilliant Infantry rco is reproduced in this fabric and 1 fls r ot striking -worn b the ' t - a i Rho9e comniexion Trill allow t i 1 llliin anl trwng color M it e i j i?r Po ns -ire chovn In i l-u T a b i li-nt ft tilosBr? Jm w - &i Id -i h ct slur By LI niCOVTElSE. The Russian effect Is much sought after b desipners of the nfw fall sti Iet Th - evc'in Liisn ef mellow brn t , i r. - nCt Utll dU i s ha sis t 1.- J 1 j u. BY ANN LISLE. HE "Congo trot" Is the latest. It's the king of the fox trots and, as danced by its Inventor. Miss Joan Sawyer. It is a revelation. This fall Miss Sawyer and Nigel Bar rie, cleverest of all the partners she has ever had, are doing this captivating new dance, a developmen of the Congo tango. Here are Miss Sawyer's general direc tions on how to dance this latest step. Have good music and get into the rhythm of it with its strongly accented f irstand third seats ONE-two-THREE-four Swing into the movement, from the hips with the entire body relaxed. Keep the foot on the floor except when hopping. Point the toes gracefully. The dance itself may be divided into five steps, each of which Is illustrated here. The dance begins with the partners facing, as shown in the first picture. The directions given are for the femi nine partner, and the man reverses the steps, using the left foot to start and going forward or back in direct oppo site to the girl's movements. For figure 1 Start on right foot, placing it back of the left, which holds the weight. Dip to right on the first beat and run forward three steps, one to each remaining beat of music of the first bar. This swings the girl to the right of her partner. Now during the second bar tbe d.rectlons are re versed. The girl dips to the left on her right foot on the first count and rnns three steps backward. The dips mast be In smooth, gliding manner, while the runs are in ordinary Congo trot man ner, with a little raise and lift to them. This simple first step may be con tinued at pleasure and should be care fully studied and repeated again and again until the rhythm of the dance Is mastered. Between each set of steps a spin Is made For this the girl s left and the mans right arms drop to their sides and, with her lifted right hand In his left, she spins to the left with her weight on her left foot and that foot in. vance ? ca.tch the weight which shifts from the right as she starts Figure 2 Is preceded by the polk-i tango s.ep in half-time with the posi tions as in figure 1 The girl statu Dack on her right foot during the fir two counts, going to the right of hc. partner and making a half-turn and starting forward to the left of her partner for the third and fourth counts of the bar Then the girl goes back four steps (one to each two bars), and IV. The sum. .V. Pendulum step. - - tb&y Pivot two bars with the old fash toiled waltz step. From this the girl spins into Fiffare 3 In this the sirt stands with her back to her partner and he" hands lowered to her hips. She starts haek. hopping slightly on her left foot. for the first beat of the measure and pointing her right foot back to catch her weight on the second connt Then she hops on her right foot and points her left foot to take the weight during the third and fourth counts. The weight of the body above the hips swings from side to side as the partners change sides. The partners take exactb tt-e same steps in this figure, but the bodies sway in opposite directions. A spin is followed by figure X. In this the dancers assume exactly the po sition shown in the picture. The man pivots slowly to the left, shifting his weight from right to left foot to eacn beat of the music while the girl starts on the first count of the beat, throwing her weight on her left foot and catch ing It on her right foot on the first half of the second count and shifting; It back to her left foot in double time for the second half of the second count. On the third and fourth counts she pivots under her partner's arm. making aa arch ef her left and his right arm as she swings under. In pivoting she shifts her weight on the first half of the third eotmt to her right foot and on the second half of the third count back to her left foot. On the fourth. count tbe pivot is concluded, with her weight thrown full on her right foot. This figure is repeated until a com plete circle has been defined. It will require at least four measures to com plete the circle. Again the spin Is used as a transition. and then to execute figure 4 the part ners slide to the right for the flrstf beat of the measure. The girl's weight is carried on her right foot and onl the second count her left foot ts drawn up to the right thus completing the right slide. After making two such.' slides, to occupy four beats of one barf f music tbe girl spins to the left, aa in all the transition twirls described for uee between figures. The entire movement of this figure Is to the right and it is- repeated cntfi two or four! spins have been made. On the conclud-j lag spin of this figure, which is lllus-l trated in figure 4. the dancers swing: into the position illustrated In Figure The man stands until tha second beat of the bar. while the girll spins through, these two beats, making, a torn to a position directly in front of her partner for the remaining counts of the measure. During the second measare she leans to tbe right for two beats while her partner, with the same flying movement of outspread arms she -uses, leans to the left. TSxy express coquetry in their exchange of balances and then swing past each other again in opposite directions (girl to left and man to right) for the last two beats of the measure. This Is repeated four times, and then, with a single spin, the partners swing back into the simple first figure and repeat It once. Advice To e Lovelorn BY BEATRICE FAIRFAX FORGBT Ileit. Dear Miss Falrfa x: I have been paying attention to a girl for nearly two years and love her dearly I think she cares for mc too. because she sat with me one day and one night when I was sick, and rigot after that she gave me an expensive Christmas present, she went to the seashore this summer and promised to Tlilt. .j vm.e once ever- ek. but I receUed but one letter the whole tune fhfnklnrSf-T1 am,wered four tinVes, thinking that I made a mistake in the tTa receved no answer. She !w Pfc0ned to ner brother I learned aboutSffvLso,2s out "" " fnH ILJ?" her alor Sne once told me shed never love any one but Tk. ,, . . Harold R. W ininnfl!? i?s '" dearly that she fee&h,?1? for you Her Present it w!n e far raore weiSttt than an ?w Prn;e to care for iou onlj gV?,rereftore'rOn,in,0rth haUnS Don l r A Ol TR ( FOIS M VRHI ICC TiiM . t S vui. I n... t, elderl man about 60 who has a daugh ter much older than myself and no wife. He likes me ery much and has asked me to marry him. I like him. too. and, aa he is ery wealthy I think it would be very well to marry him as it would also better conditions at home I have not had any consul tation with ray parents as yet about this fact, so I surely would appre ciate jour advice first. Sweet Sixteen. The marriage you are contemplat ing is against nature. Sixty and 1 are two generations apart and not meant to mate. My dear child ou must not sacrifice your youth to "bet ter conditions at home." Walt for love and the happiness the years will bring you CO'NQUER BV SttEBTZVBSS. Dear Miss Fairfax I am a girl of 22 and engaged to a young man for the last 10 months. A cousin of mine, a girl of IS and Tcr prettj and strikingly attractive, calls on me frcquentl She ha- on n inj occasions re entlv expressed 1 er ! nin openl for this loung man ' 1 e it! a-v irs to live fur ver I r- time -he comes to m I 1 ri r-1 ' for rt f - T f it ir i le is liking her mors aci more with her encouragement. What am I to do nnder the circumstaacesT Don't let Jealousy take possession of you. U it does and you become sour and crabbed, yon are reasonably cer tain to loie your sweetheart's affec tions if they nave begun to wander at aU. I should not diacass this at all. nor permit myself to question his lojalty Just be so charming and lov able that there will be no thought of deserting you for another. ABSCTtDLY Tnt.VMCAL. Dear Miss Fairfax I am 21 and ha e been keeping com pany with a oung man for a year and a half We are devoted to each other, but have nun) quarrel we have parted twice. 1 have a sister 1J. who is going out with a oung man of whom ray friend does not approve and on this reason wishes to part -with Tac unless m sister gives up her young man Mr sister refuses to do so Mv fri nd does not drink, smoke or plaj cards and makes a nice liv ing M hen I told my friends and par e ,ts th it h. refuses to call unless ray sisier Knes up her joung man. they ad ised me not to hae anything- to ') with him, but I 1om him dearly. Brokenhearted I do not see why your friend should concern himself about the joung man for whom lour s'ster cares unless he k o s something o greatlv to his dis wtrUt that he cannot endure to see i. girl he ! ni'Hi tt tatinjr with such i i The m tter U! p ar c. little i u-ii in I i ne 1 ix - thit i ijv e!f-ii j ; ... swee .id u A jjj talk it over very candidly with the man for whom yon care. GIVE HBR CHANCE TO BXriAlN. Dear Mies Fairfax: A girl friend of mine with whom I have been going oat for some time hoc lately proved verv false to me. I have found that ah frequently talks about mc to other young men. I like her very much and am distressed about this. Anxteos. Ask her why she is not loyal to friendship and you. 100 Years Ago Today ONE hundred years ago today France was undergoing many changes, following' the over throw of Napoleon and the restoration of the Bourbons. Many of these changes were not to the liking of the people, and the signs of popular dis content were increasing daily Parti cular offence was given by the repudia tion of Napoleon's famous Concordat with tho church, also by the efforts of the government to prohibit all buy ing and selling on religious holidays and Sundas. Eer where in France there m premonitions of that situa tion which Napoleon foresaw when be said The Bourbins roa put Trane J it peie with I u ope but hoiv will j itu rut he- at peace wi li th.r 1 i.e. ls. Thousands Make Inquiry Through Geneva Committee For Loved Ones at Front Paris. France, Oct. Si The Geneva committee organised tocentralize and assure the exchange of information re garding prisoners of war is receiving more than :Me Inquiries a day by let ter in addition to many telegrams. Requests for Information have been received from monsieur Delcasse French minister of foreign affairs. concerning his son, wounded near Nanci and picked up by the Germans from Sir Edward Grey. English foreigi minister, concerning his nephew, princess of Saxe-Meiningen concern ing the prince of Saxe-Meiningen. of whose death she had not been informed through German channels from the rector of the university of Munich, con cerning his son. a prisoner in England. A German general unable to do so himself, begged the committee to send good news to the wife of a French. colonel, a prisoner at Karlsruhe Tho Paris papers are also serving as a sort of dealing house for informa tion concerning families and friends dispersed as the result of tbe exodus from tne north of France on the ap proach of the Germans. The ordinary cost or b. Want Zd In The El Paso Herald is 25 cents. It reaches an average of about 85.000 naders each Issue.