EX, PASO HEBAXD
Week-End Edition, October 24-25, 1914
NEW COLORS IN VOGUE
Military Uniforms Inspire the Hew Frocks; The Blending of Fabrics.
EW YORK Nov. 14 Naturally are In the heyday of fashion, either
. " Tnnifo fnfn nntfro rnKttlireS or USed in
I XI costumes desiuned under such
warlike conditions as those
which have existed In Paris the last
few months, cannot fall to reflect the
sp.nt and thought of their creators.
In the gowns which have reached us
since the mobilization of the army,
military effects are supreme.
A great deal of infantry red Is used
In these gowns, blue, dust brown, and
a new graj, fthich has been created
and aptly named "battleship gray."
This gray is the shade that the war
ships are painted when in active aer-
JL Smart Dress Developed In Battleship
Gray Broadcloth Combined with
vice it is a color which blends with
the atmosphere until before the ob
server knows it the ship has faded Into
the color of the fog and of the sea
ard tan be seen no more.
On manj of the gowns designed for
Americans the brassard appears upon
the sleeves. It is not applied but is a
strip of cloth inserted between the
upper and lower part of the sleeve
on which a conventionalised symbol
conjunction with j allow, pink, green.
Mack or red. A stunning evening
costume which reminded one of the
draperies of classic Greece, was made
of one entire length of cloth of sil
ver wound around the figure and up
ovei one shoulder in a most graceful
fashion. The onlj relief from the gray
coldness of the silver was a rose, shad
ing fn.ni pink into red.
Although skirts are widening the
tight undersfc.i-t, beneath, a tunio o..
ample width, still continues tp be seen.
I saw a mart afternoon dress a few
days ago, worn by a charming young
woman. The basque waist was of
black satin wrinkling over the hips,
with a collar high in the back held
in place and tied high around the
neck by a black elvet ribbon. The
skirt was of black satin and clung
close to the figure Over this was
worn a redingote tunic of craquele net
edged with a deep band of satin rib
bon. This tunic floated away from
the figure giving a breezy effect to
the costume and the skirt glimmered
through the sheer net in a fascinating
manner. A charming little Cossack
hat of black velvet was percnea siigni
ly on the side of the head, on which
an American beauty -ose was laid
carelessly on the side, a little to the
The Redingote and Moyen.Age styles
hold sway for the street dress of
serge, gabardine, rep or broadcloth.
In- the dress illustrated a battleship
gray broadcloth is combined with
black satin. The upper dress. In one
piece with the skirt, is of battleship
gray broadcloth bound, on all the
edges, with black braid. The inset
test and the skirt is of black satin.
A narrow belt of the broadcloth is
placed around the dress dust below the
A cunning little hat Is worn with
the frock which reminds one of an
Indian teepee with strips of stiff rib
bon tied together in the center and
spreading out, like similarly tied
bunches of arrows. This is a unique
model which is smart if placed proper
ly upon the head. These days, a hat
may be chic but if the wearer has not
a proper sense of the correct man
ner of wearing it, it might as well be
a Turkish fez or an oldfashloned trl
corne. New, indeed, is the second Illustra
tion. The coat is of velet. with col
lars and cuffs of imitation Persian
lamb The lower portion Is cut ait ay.
square, in the front, giving an especially-
smart air to the coat. A skirt
of striped serge is shown with this
coat. These striped serges are soft
in color and are serviceable, as well
as stylish, for the separate Bkirt to
wear with shirtwaists or blouses.
Plaids, in the same soft and shadowy
colorings are, also, shown and are
roost attractive; These combine stun
ningly with a corresponding plain
Wonderful evening wraps were de
signed in Paris just before the mobili
zation of troops, and in them are re
flected the sumptuousness of the Mid
dle Ages. Wonderful satins and velvets
are embroidered, or brocaded, in de
signs which remind one of Heraldic
del ices worn on the garments of the
crusaders and the robes of the clergy.
A magnificent wrap of cardinal red
velvet had large collar and cuffs of
sable, rich in its barbaric luxurlous
ness, with a cape-like panel, rounded
at the bottom, falling from under the
collar almost to the bottom of the
wrap This cape was divided into four
parts through the center, somewhat
like a. crusader's shield.
The peeper placing of an artificial
flower Is a stunning and ultra touch,
to the fall and winter frocks. The
flower on the hat is oftentimes du
plicated in the flower worn at the belt
or on the waist. In evening frocks a
flower clasps the point of the waist
upon the shoulder, strands of them are
used as garlands on waist or placed
under tunics of chiffon or tulle, while
larger, single roees are often spaced
around the bottom of the tunic or
Here's tke Congo Trot, tne Very Latest Dance Invented ty Joan Sawyer
In This Series of Fascinating Photographs, Posed Exclusively for The El Paso Herald, Miss Sawyer With Her Partner, Nigel Barrie,
Shows Exactly How to Execute the Simple Stens of the Dance.
I. Beginning, .or dip step,,
HI Minuet circle.
rii Trtfi B
Places Funds With U. S.
Ambassadors for Destitute
London. Eng- Oct. :4 The "British.
German Friendship society- has de
cided in view of the war to dissolve
and to .place its assets at the disposal
of the American ambassadors in Lon
don and Berlin for the support of
needy British subjects in Germany and
needy Germans in England.
Daily Fashion Hint
Correct Street Snit in Which Striped
anl Plain Senge Is Combined and
Trimmed Effectively 'With. Persian
Is embroidered in self color, gold or
Panne -eliet is being used for eve
ning dresses, for suits and for trimming-
purposes. It comes in all known
rclors One of the most fashionable
shades at the present time being sal
mon pirk. Even tneMirilliant Infantry
rco is reproduced in this fabric and
1 fls r ot striking -worn b the
' t - a i Rho9e comniexion Trill allow
t i 1 llliin anl trwng color
M it e i j i?r Po ns -ire chovn In
i l-u T a b i li-nt
-i h ct slur
By LI niCOVTElSE.
The Russian effect Is much sought
after b desipners of the nfw fall
sti Iet Th - evc'in Liisn ef mellow
brn t , i r. - nCt
Utll dU i s ha sis t 1.- J 1 j u.
BY ANN LISLE.
HE "Congo trot" Is the latest. It's
the king of the fox trots and, as
danced by its Inventor. Miss
Joan Sawyer. It is a revelation.
This fall Miss Sawyer and Nigel Bar
rie, cleverest of all the partners she has
ever had, are doing this captivating
new dance, a developmen of the Congo
Here are Miss Sawyer's general direc
tions on how to dance this latest step.
Have good music and get into the
rhythm of it with its strongly accented
f irstand third seats ONE-two-THREE-four
Swing into the movement, from
the hips with the entire body relaxed.
Keep the foot on the floor except when
hopping. Point the toes gracefully.
The dance itself may be divided into
five steps, each of which Is illustrated
The dance begins with the partners
facing, as shown in the first picture.
The directions given are for the femi
nine partner, and the man reverses the
steps, using the left foot to start and
going forward or back in direct oppo
site to the girl's movements.
For figure 1 Start on right foot,
placing it back of the left, which holds
the weight. Dip to right on the first
beat and run forward three steps, one
to each remaining beat of music of
the first bar. This swings the girl to
the right of her partner. Now during
the second bar tbe d.rectlons are re
versed. The girl dips to the left on her
right foot on the first count and rnns
three steps backward. The dips mast
be In smooth, gliding manner, while the
runs are in ordinary Congo trot man
ner, with a little raise and lift to them.
This simple first step may be con
tinued at pleasure and should be care
fully studied and repeated again and
again until the rhythm of the dance Is
Between each set of steps a spin Is
made For this the girl s left and the
mans right arms drop to their sides
and, with her lifted right hand In his
left, she spins to the left with her
weight on her left foot and that foot
in. vance ? ca.tch the weight which
shifts from the right as she starts
Figure 2 Is preceded by the polk-i
tango s.ep in half-time with the posi
tions as in figure 1 The girl statu
Dack on her right foot during the fir
two counts, going to the right of hc.
partner and making a half-turn and
starting forward to the left of her
partner for the third and fourth counts
of the bar Then the girl goes back
four steps (one to each two bars), and
.V. Pendulum step.
tb&y Pivot two bars with the old fash
toiled waltz step. From this the girl
Fiffare 3 In this the sirt stands
with her back to her partner and he"
hands lowered to her hips. She starts
haek. hopping slightly on her left foot.
for the first beat of the measure and
pointing her right foot back to catch
her weight on the second connt Then
she hops on her right foot and points
her left foot to take the weight during
the third and fourth counts. The weight
of the body above the hips swings from
side to side as the partners change
sides. The partners take exactb tt-e
same steps in this figure, but the bodies
sway in opposite directions.
A spin is followed by figure X. In
this the dancers assume exactly the po
sition shown in the picture. The man
pivots slowly to the left, shifting his
weight from right to left foot to eacn
beat of the music while the girl starts
on the first count of the beat, throwing
her weight on her left foot and catch
ing It on her right foot on the first
half of the second count and shifting;
It back to her left foot in double time
for the second half of the second count.
On the third and fourth counts she
pivots under her partner's arm. making
aa arch ef her left and his right arm
as she swings under. In pivoting she
shifts her weight on the first half of
the third eotmt to her right foot and
on the second half of the third count
back to her left foot. On the fourth.
count tbe pivot is concluded, with her
weight thrown full on her right foot.
This figure is repeated until a com
plete circle has been defined. It will
require at least four measures to com
plete the circle.
Again the spin Is used as a transition.
and then to execute figure 4 the part
ners slide to the right for the flrstf
beat of the measure. The girl's weight
is carried on her right foot and onl
the second count her left foot ts drawn
up to the right thus completing the
right slide. After making two such.'
slides, to occupy four beats of one barf
f music tbe girl spins to the left, aa
in all the transition twirls described
for uee between figures. The entire
movement of this figure Is to the right
and it is- repeated cntfi two or four!
spins have been made. On the conclud-j
lag spin of this figure, which is lllus-l
trated in figure 4. the dancers swing:
into the position illustrated In
Figure The man stands until tha
second beat of the bar. while the girll
spins through, these two beats, making,
a torn to a position directly in front of
her partner for the remaining counts
of the measure. During the second
measare she leans to tbe right for two
beats while her partner, with the same
flying movement of outspread arms she
-uses, leans to the left. TSxy express
coquetry in their exchange of balances
and then swing past each other again
in opposite directions (girl to left and
man to right) for the last two beats
of the measure. This Is repeated four
times, and then, with a single spin, the
partners swing back into the simple
first figure and repeat It once.
BY BEATRICE FAIRFAX
Dear Miss Falrfa x:
I have been paying attention to a
girl for nearly two years and love her
dearly I think she cares for mc too.
because she sat with me one day and
one night when I was sick, and rigot
after that she gave me an expensive
Christmas present, she went to the
seashore this summer and promised to
Tlilt. .j vm.e once ever- ek. but I
receUed but one letter the whole tune
fhfnklnrSf-T1 am,wered four tinVes,
thinking that I made a mistake in the
tTa receved no answer. She
!w Pfc0ned to ner brother I learned
aboutSffvLso,2s out "" "
fnH ILJ?" her alor Sne once
told me shed never love any one but
Tk. ,, . . Harold R. W
ininnfl!? i?s '" dearly that she
fee&h,?1? for you Her Present
it w!n e far raore weiSttt than an
?w Prn;e to care for iou onlj
gV?,rereftore'rOn,in,0rth haUnS Don l
r A Ol TR ( FOIS M VRHI ICC
TiiM . t
S vui. I n... t,
elderl man about 60 who has a daugh
ter much older than myself and no
wife. He likes me ery much and
has asked me to marry him. I like
him. too. and, aa he is ery wealthy
I think it would be very well to marry
him as it would also better conditions
at home I have not had any consul
tation with ray parents as yet about
this fact, so I surely would appre
ciate jour advice first.
The marriage you are contemplat
ing is against nature. Sixty and 1
are two generations apart and not
meant to mate. My dear child ou
must not sacrifice your youth to "bet
ter conditions at home." Walt for love
and the happiness the years will bring
CO'NQUER BV SttEBTZVBSS.
Dear Miss Fairfax
I am a girl of 22 and engaged to
a young man for the last 10 months.
A cousin of mine, a girl of IS and
Tcr prettj and strikingly attractive,
calls on me frcquentl She ha-
on n inj occasions re entlv expressed
1 er ! nin openl for this loung man
' 1 e it! a-v irs to live fur ver
I r- time -he comes to m
I 1 ri r-1 ' for rt f - T
f it ir i le is liking her mors aci
more with her encouragement. What
am I to do nnder the circumstaacesT
Don't let Jealousy take possession
of you. U it does and you become sour
and crabbed, yon are reasonably cer
tain to loie your sweetheart's affec
tions if they nave begun to wander
at aU. I should not diacass this at
all. nor permit myself to question his
lojalty Just be so charming and lov
able that there will be no thought of
deserting you for another.
Dear Miss Fairfax
I am 21 and ha e been keeping com
pany with a oung man for a year and
a half We are devoted to each other,
but have nun) quarrel we have
parted twice. 1 have a sister 1J. who
is going out with a oung man of
whom ray friend does not approve and
on this reason wishes to part -with
Tac unless m sister gives up her
young man Mr sister refuses to do
so Mv fri nd does not drink, smoke
or plaj cards and makes a nice liv
ing M hen I told my friends and par
e ,ts th it h. refuses to call unless ray
sisier Knes up her joung man. they
ad ised me not to hae anything- to
') with him, but I 1om him dearly.
I do not see why your friend should
concern himself about the joung man
for whom lour s'ster cares unless he
k o s something o greatlv to his dis
wtrUt that he cannot endure to see
i. girl he ! ni'Hi tt tatinjr with such
i i The m tter U! p ar c. little
i u-ii in I i ne 1 ix - thit
i ijv e!f-ii j
; ... swee .id u A jjj talk it
over very candidly with the man for
whom yon care.
GIVE HBR CHANCE TO BXriAlN.
Dear Mies Fairfax:
A girl friend of mine with whom I
have been going oat for some time
hoc lately proved verv false to me. I
have found that ah frequently talks
about mc to other young men. I like
her very much and am distressed about
Ask her why she is not loyal to
friendship and you.
100 Years Ago Today
ONE hundred years ago today
France was undergoing many
changes, following' the over
throw of Napoleon and the restoration
of the Bourbons. Many of these
changes were not to the liking of the
people, and the signs of popular dis
content were increasing daily Parti
cular offence was given by the repudia
tion of Napoleon's famous Concordat
with tho church, also by the efforts
of the government to prohibit all buy
ing and selling on religious holidays
and Sundas. Eer where in France
there m premonitions of that situa
tion which Napoleon foresaw when be
said The Bourbins roa put Trane
J it peie with I u ope but hoiv will
j itu rut he- at peace wi li th.r
1 i.e. ls.
Thousands Make Inquiry
Through Geneva Committee
For Loved Ones at Front
Paris. France, Oct. Si The Geneva
committee organised tocentralize and
assure the exchange of information re
garding prisoners of war is receiving
more than :Me Inquiries a day by let
ter in addition to many telegrams.
Requests for Information have been
received from monsieur Delcasse
French minister of foreign affairs.
concerning his son, wounded near
Nanci and picked up by the Germans
from Sir Edward Grey. English foreigi
minister, concerning his nephew,
princess of Saxe-Meiningen concern
ing the prince of Saxe-Meiningen. of
whose death she had not been informed
through German channels from the
rector of the university of Munich, con
cerning his son. a prisoner in England.
A German general unable to do so
himself, begged the committee to send
good news to the wife of a French.
colonel, a prisoner at Karlsruhe
Tho Paris papers are also serving as
a sort of dealing house for informa
tion concerning families and friends
dispersed as the result of tbe exodus
from tne north of France on the ap
proach of the Germans.
The ordinary cost or b. Want Zd In
The El Paso Herald is 25 cents. It
reaches an average of about 85.000
naders each Issue.
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