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The Spokane press. (Spokane, Wash.) 1902-1939, March 27, 1910, Image 17

Image and text provided by Washington State Library; Olympia, WA

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn88085947/1910-03-27/ed-1/seq-17/

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The New Kiseru, or Japanese Pipe, Which Has Become a
Fad of the Woman Smoker.
MONEY anil social position Jo not
necessarily moan good taste;
and that Is why we have In
"society" what is cnlied the rapiJ sot
i—tho women who cut their decollete
down to tho waist line, who smoke
cigarettes ami who dress their dogs In
costumes to match their own. And It
Is tho rnpld set who makr haste to
adopt tho latest agonies of fashion,
and no novelty Is too absurd and ex
This year's Spring novelties for tho
rapid set Include, among many others,
thoso pictured on this page.
Naturally tho "Chantecler" craze Is
respons*')le for somo of these new
Spring fads of the fast set. Women
In all grades of socoity aro wearing
t'hatitocler hats, upon which a mora or
less realistic rooster is Jeplcfed In
various poses; but you have to look to
tho fast set for tho last word In Chan
tecler sartorial display.
One demonstration of this has ap
peared In Loudon in the shape of the
Cigarette Case for Fair Fad
dists, Similar to That Which
Misa Anna Sands Recently
Lost and Advertised For.
"Cocorlco" (French for ooek-a-doodte
doo) veil. This veil belongs to the
class that . play large Jots or other
figures which tako tho place of the
"black patch" stuck to tho skin of
Eighteenth and Nineteenth century beau
ties. But In place of the black dots,
roosters aro woven Into tho veil-
Thus, a woman of the rapid set this
Spring will appear—-from a little dis
tance — to have a rooster paintod on
hor fair cheek.
Tho really distinctive fad of the
fast set, however, is her smoker's out
tit. The day has gone by wher. this
class of women are at pains to con
ceal their .tobacco habit. It will be re
called that not long ago Miss Anna
Sands, a general favorite In tho best
New York society, advertised in the
newspapers for her Jewelled cigarette
case, which she had lost. Probably
she thought no more about thus adver
tising her cigarette habit than she
would of offering a reward for a lost
purse or "vanity box" oi diamond
ring—so popular has smoking become
among fashionable women.
But fashionable women — especially
In the "rapid set"—are no longer sat
isfied with the comparatively Innocu
ous cigarette. They stem to be hark
ing back to the tastes of our Pur
itan grandmothers, many of whom
even went to Join their husbands
In a comfortable pipe of an
evening In the chimney corner,
They an forsaking the cigarette
case for cute lutie pipos and
c t** Dachshund of the Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava,
Showing One of His Pair of $10,000 Enamel and Dia
mond Earrings.
•mbroldered tobacco pouehta—both for
houss use ami t,> carry with tham when
•>ut niuklng calls.
They ire Indebted to the Japanese fur
Ibis fad. Tin wholo outfit -embroidered
pouch and pipe—la of Japanese manu
facture. In designs eminently calculated
to cnptlvato the feminine fancy. The
pouches ara Of silk, or some soft leather,
daintily ornamented with drugorm and
olher designs familiar on Japanesu
screens, und usually provided with a
"puckering" cord ending In long silk
tassels They are small, holding only a
pluch or two of finely tut tobacco.
It Is r>ally not necessary for the femi
nine plpa-iraOking faddist to curry
much tobacco with her when out call
ing, as tbeaa little pipes have v bowl
hardly half the size of a thimble Half
a dozen whiffe consumes a whole pipeful
of the mild, scented tobacco used.
Fur home use these pipes have sienw
eighties IfiObH or two feet long, ol
Japanese Pipes, Dog's WitH
Diamond Earring's,, Weird
Developments of Chantecler
Styles, Muff Monßeys—lt
Will Be Quite tKe Queerest
Spring' in History.
■lander bamboo fitted with unbar tips —
tha Idea being to 000 l tha smoke befura
It rpaohca tha fair smoker's mouth.
Of course, these long-itemmed pipes
cannot conveniently ba carried about.
For use when out calling, the fair smok
ing fuddlst provides herself with a dainty
Utile pipe which, ornamented ease and
all, takes up hardly mjre room than her
powder puff. Thtl complete smoker's
Ml Includes also v jewelled it: itch box,
on the same diminutive scale, filled with
little wax matches barely an Inch long.
Already It Is said that women in tha
power of this fad are as particular about
this pln*-smoUlng equipment aa so many
c Ulege freshmen. They Insist (4b their
pipe hovls being of the finest French
briar, or meerschaum. In the latter case
they watch the coloring process with the
utmost enthusiasm. •
It Is well known that transatlantic
women traveller* in reoen: j'trs haee
mora and more invaded the emoailng
Copyright. 1910. by American-Examiner. Great Britain Rights Reserved. ' "
moms of steamships, especially when ac
companied by masxuline relatives with
the smoking habit. Formerly this in
vasion was not looked upon with favor
by the average smoking, card-playing
voyager; but nowadays nothing is
thought of It. There Is more freedom on
shipboard, anyway, and there is where
many American women have contracted
the cigarette habit In emulation of their
European woman fellow voyagers.
Probably the usual European invasion
by fashionable American women this
year will find many of them Joining their
husbands in tho steamer smoking rooms,
not for a cigarette after dinner, but to
get out their d.iinty Japanese pipes and
puff away like a masculine veteran of
the smoking army.
Not only are there new Spring fads
fir.r the women of the rapid set, but for
their animal pets as well. Many a fox
terrier and Boston bull will be shielded
from April showers by "Chantecler"
blankets. But the latest rapid set fad
for Its pet dogs is in the direction of
Jewelled ornaments. Doggfb has not yet
arrived at the dignity of "rings on his
lingers and bells on his toes." but to bo
a right-Up-to-date fashionable dog ho
must have rings In his ears.
The originator of this fashion Is the
Marchioness of Duffertn and Ava, who
was Miss Flora Davis, of New York.
She is the proud owner of a "blue rib-
Why a Glare In Yo?ar Eyes Hurts You.
By J. Herbert Parsons, F. R. C. S. Eng.
WB have all experienced the dls
comtltUro of What We call
"glare," and It Is, therefore,
scarcely necessary to define what we
mean by tiie term. Everyone is fa
miliar with the uncomfortable sensa
tion felt when a bright light shines
directly Into the cyos — the light re
flected from the sea. for Instance, or
from a wet road when tha rain has not
long since ceased and the sun has
broken through the clouds somewhere
In the line of vision. Ola re Is common
in the s6uthern countries, where the
sun Is bright, the utrnosphora clear,
and tiie ground surface white., and the
sandy surface* along the coast pre
sent tha same dazzling aspect in tha
If one passes from a dark room
suddenly Into ths bright sunlight,
glare ts experienced In a peculiarly
acute form. It aiuy bu several minutes
before objocts can be dlsl Ingulshed at
all clearly and yet longer ore they can
be viewed with- comfort. Under arti
ficial conditions glare Is experienced
in an acute form when a bright light la
situated almost In the line of vision be
tween the aye aud the object observed.
An Illustration of the effect of con
tinual glare upon not only the eyes,
but the entire physical system Is found
In the albinos, fhair hair is white or
extremely pale in tune, their Irises are
red, owing to the blood circulating l:i
the vessel*, and their eye,* show rapid
These, people suffer much from glare
even under circumstance* which Cuuse
no discomfort to normally constituted In
dividuals Much of their distress Is alle
viated by the use of red-tinted glasses
which modify the In.easily of the light
winch reichea their eyes.
Shu-e ; ia.u is essentially au uucom
bnn" dachshund, nnd whenever she
drives out with her elongated pet, his
head thrust out over the edge of tho
lap-robe, the sight to ordinary beholders
Is little short of paralyzing.
This pampered beast wears earrings of
exquisite enamel work, set with dia
monds, which are so largo In design that
they nearly cover the whole ear and
dachshund! don't havo small ears, either.
It Is said that tiie pair cost the Mar- r
chloness no less than $10,000.
Inquiry at the shops of fashionable (
Jewellers develops the fact than many of
their fair patrons are purchasing Jew
elled trlnhets—such as buckles and but
tons—for the adornment of their 'pet ',
dogs' nttire. As yet tho earrings fad
for doggie does not appear to have
ga ed much headway. Perhaps the
Marchioness of Dufforin and Ava is a
bit ahead of the times in tills direction.
As is well known, faddists of the rapid
set are apt to go to extremes. Accord
ingly it will not be surprising if, on some
bright morning this Spring, you should
see strolling down Fifth avenue, Now
York, a fair faddist who Is a walking ad
vertisement of all the new Spring fad*
represented on this page.
She will wear a Chantecler hat of the
choicest design of tho Paris milliners.
Her Chantecler veil will not be particu
larly in evidence, being tucked up under
the brim of the Chantecler lmt for Fifth
A Prophetic
Study of
Fully Equipp Cf J
Rapid Set
as Dreamed
Mr. Eddy.
and On.
fortiblo sensation, It Is clear that the
fundamental point In the problem before
tis Is physlonsglral. The eye shows a
marvelous adaptability to extremes of
Intensity of Illumination. Under favor
able conditions small print may be read
easily by the light of a tallow candle or
In the brilliant b'.usa of a Southern sun.
Experiment has shown that the sensi
tiveness of the retina to Impressions Is
enormously increased by protecting the
eye from all light. If tho eyas ura light
ly bandaged so that no pressure Is ex
erted, but light effectually excluded, in
the course of about half an hour the
retina readies lta maximum sensibility;
It is then poatlblfj to perceive a glimmer
of light which is quite invisible under
any othor conditions. Exposure, on the
other baud, causes -a diminution of re
tinal sensitiveness, g> that a much
greater degree of change of intensity of
illumination is necessary to produce a
coiibcloub Impression than In former cir
In coming from a dark room, when the
retina Is extremely IMSltlva, bright light
MUSt t an uncomfortable and Often pain
ful sensation, and we must conclude,
therefore, that the condition of adapta
tion of tho retina is one of the most im
portant factors, if not the most Import
ant, In the production of glare.
It is not, however, the only cause.
It will have been noticed that in most
of the examples of the occurrence of
glare In natural circumstances it Is
cauaej by strong light reflected up
wards Into the eyes from the surface
of the sea or ground. It would ap
pear, therefore, that ll«ht entering the
eye in such a direction Is particularly
prune lo cause discomfort, in most
of those circumstances only relatively
feeble light, comi.iiej with the inn,
avenue glrla out for a morning stroll sel
dom hide their faces behind veils.
The air still having some chill in It.
she will wear her Hen Pheasant oape—
upon which are embroidered figures of the
bird made famous by Mme. Simons le
Bargy-Perler in Rostand's play. The
cape will be trimmed with real pheaaant
feathers sewn on the material. It Is an
Interesting fact that the "Hen Pheasant"
Is really a cock pheasant, the female of
that bird species having plumage that Is
simple and modeet, even dull, compared
with that of her lord. The paradox In
Mme. Slmone's make-up Is due to the
necessity of making the pheasant the
heroine of the play. Therefore the cape
of this fair faddist will be trimmed with
cock phcasunt feathers.
She will wear one of the new Chan
tecler tailor-made gowns, with rooster
enters the eye. for the sun or other
source of light Is high above the ob
server and tha eye is protected from the
direct rays by the overhanging brow
and lids, to which Is often added soma
form of headgear. Light strongly re
flected from below Is for the most part
worse than useless for seeing purposes,
as must have often been observed In
reading books printed on highly glazed
paper. This Is detrimental to clear
vision, chiefly because it obscures the
contrust between the letters and tho
paper. No Ink is so black that no
light Is reflected from it, and by
strongly Increasing the intensity of the
light between the lines the Increase In
the reflection of light from the Ink Is
greater In proportion than tha Increase
In the reflection from the paper, and
hence the contrast which is so essential
Is diminished.
It might be argued that glare Is
often caused by excess of contrast, as
in tho familiar examples of the in
tensely bright beams of light from a
lighthouse or automobile lamp at nlgni.
Analysis of the conditions will, how
ever, Bhow, I think, that the same
causes are at work here, augmented
by an unusual degree of dark adapta
tion of ihe retina.
Owing to the Inherent defects of tho
optical apparatus of the eye, no retinal
Image Is absolutely sharp. There Is,
therefore, a natural tendency to dlf
fuseness of the Image, no matter how
perfect tha eye. Flooding the retina
with light must necessarily diminish
the sharpness of the definition of the
imago, preventing a clear vision.
Tho eye possesses an automatic pro
tective mechanism against the influ
ence of bright light la the Iris. This
acts us a diaphragm, which cot.tracts.
designs on the front panel. As she llfrs
her skirt daintily In crossing a side street
you will notice, too, that her silk stock
ings are chantecler embroidered, while
her low suede ties have an owl design on
each instep.
Her left hand will be In a chiffon muff
with a marmoset on Its front. In that
same hand, or attached to her wrist, will
be her Japanese tobacco pouch and short
stemmed pipe. Her right hand holds tho
leash of her pet bull dog, which walks
proudly before her. his enamel-and-dla
mond earrings sparkling in the Spring
Perhaps It Is fortunate that this fair
faddist has not far to walk along crowded
Fifth avenue—for her "get-up" Is truly
astonishing. But before a mob has time
to gather she disappears within tha
bronze-grilled doora of a million-dollar
mansion, and Is soon enjoying a sociable
smoke in the boudoir of a fellow fair fad
diat, whom she drives half distracted with
diminishing tha size of the pupillary
torture, when the light la Increaaed.
Tho range of the apparatus Is not
sufficiently great to abolish the evil
results of Intensely high Illumination,
as is shown by the cases of serious
permanent defects of vision which fol
low looking at eclipses of the sun and
exposure to the bright flash of a short
circuit with unprotected eyes. Hence,
the very intensity of light may causa
glare and even worse consequences by
producing grosser changes In tha re
tina than those of which we have
spoken. It is aom* particular form of
energy In the rays that brlnga about
disastrous results.
Color Is beneficial In reducing tha
tendency to glare. Glare Is a func
tion of luminosity rathor than of color.
The discomfort of moderate glara
causes us to screw up our eyes and
pucker our brows, and this prolonged
muscular contraotion Is In Itself pain
ful. The puckering of tha brow
squeezes the supra-orbital nerve
against the frontal bone, causing pain;
this pain spreuds to other branches of
the same nerve, and we have head
In the more acute forms of glare,
however, pain Is experienced at tha
outset. Now we have no evidence to
show that any stimulus can produco
pain through the pure visual nervs
tracts. It la possible that tha pain
of Intense glara la duo to tha over
stimulation of tha nerve endings of
tha fifth nerve, which lla dlreotly ba-
retina, or poaalbly due to tha
Irritation of tha sensory nervaa Im
the cornea or choroid. Further in
vestigation of this problem la neeflad
before any final ooncluslon oau ba

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