The Savannah morning news., April 19, 1903, Page 22, Image 22

About The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current

Image provided by: Digital Library of Georgia, a project of GALILEO located at the University of Georgia Libraries

                
22
LUXURY IN LINEN IS
THE SUMMER GIRL’S SLOGAN
Splashing Patterns Surrounding Medallions, Leaves and
Flowers—Everything Embroidered from Coarse Fabrics
of Butcher's Linen to Handkerchief Fine Material.
BY MARY DEAN.
The embroidered ‘linens now on ex
hibition in the shops express, in the
highest degree, the present luxurious
trend of fashion. Worked by hand
and inerusted with effective laces, no
design is too elaborate to be employed
on these simple textures, some of which
axe in the coarse weaves of the butch
ers' apron. Upon other gown linens,
handkerchief fine, are used the more
delicate laces and embroideries, but
with results scarcely so gratifying as
may be obtained by the oaarser com
binations.
If the word may be used, a gorgeous
splashing is the thing, for the needle
work lies in great careless sprays and
set arabesques, in which, at some ef
fective point, are set the lace squares,
diamonds, ovals, leaves or flowers. If
a skirt is bordered with lace, this runs
into embroidery, taking many odd and
highly ornamental lines, all of which
means expense.
As the embroidered linen gown rep
resents the last notch of elegance, many
a satin or silk costume may be bought
for half its price. With the exception
of the main scams, which are put to
gether with machine sewing, all the
making of the choicest models is done
by hand, and mingled in with other
EMBROIDERY FROM NECK TO HEM.
decorations will be many specimens of
rare stitchery, among which big
squares in Teneriffe drawn-work are
seen. Introducing a sort of coarse
spider-web, caught in a tangle of single j
threads, the Teneriffe work is used to
accentuate other stitcheries. Since it
Is an expensive and rare accomplish
ment, there may be scattered incrusta
tions of it. Then some of the frag
ments are put in with a linen braid
edge so as to seem part of the garment,
whilst others form stocks and cuff
pieces, in combination with linen
biases, briar-stitching or fagotting.
Some of the simpler of the lined
gowns have the blouse only embroider
ed. No lace is used, and, with the skirt
merely hemnded, or, at most, showing a
few tucks, each pattern can be had for
from sl6 to $25.
The majority of these handsome nov
elties are shown in unmade state. The
length for each gown is boxed sepa
rately, with the skirt portion shaped
for sewing, and an uncut piece with
front, back and sleeve embroideries for
the bodice. No matter how plain such
worked frocks are, Fashion accepts a
white one as good enought for any
service.
Interesting data concerning these ma
terials is that, though the idea first
came from Ireland, they are made in
France. Between the hours of devo
tion and study the nuns and pupils in
convents outside of Paris fashion them
with hours of patient labor, six months
being no uncommon length of time to
spend on a single costume. Where
fore, taking this alone in considera
tion, do not be surprised when the
clerk of the linen counter coolly rat
tles off prices that are almost hair
raising.
So ardently has the fashionable
■world taken to the linen fad, that
some of the most exquisite costumes
of the new season owe their founda
tions to the flax shuttle. White is
preferred to color for these, though
many exquisitely tinted linens are
seen, and a number of them are em
broidered all over with small but .ef
fective designs.
A white linen gown on this order,
made for afternoon reception*, com
bines. with its allovcr needlework, i
superb borders of grape leaves. They
are in high relief, with yellow antique j
lace for contrast with their pearly
whiteness, the lace put on to edge
skirt flounces, and trimming the
bodice.
Another linen gown is in a vivid
turquoise blue. Heavy sprays of em
broidery. in the same color, trim the
front of the skirt and blouse bodice,
which displays yak lace, in a deep
butter yellow, as additional garniture.
This shapes a rich skirt border, slash
ing up into the material, and an or
namental stock and cuffs for the
waist.
The blouse bodice, with a set de
sign at the front, invariably fastens
at the back or under the left arm.
Other bodices, with the embroidery
evenly divided between the two fronts,
fasten there, with sometimes orna
mental buttons of silk cord placed at
each shoulder or in a row down the
bottom lap.
Separate blouse pieces of embroid
ered linen may also be bought in box
form, and, since these cost, in un
made state, anywhere from $lO to S6O,
it can plainly be seen that such shirt
waists are meant (for dressy occasions.
A superb pattern intended for the
regulation shirt was covered all over
with the fruit and vine of Bacchus.
The linen was sacking loose in weave.
Slnglar to relate, the fragment,
which was handwork, was ticketed at
only $lO.
Such fine shirtwaists, and others of
a similar dressiness, will be worn in
combination with white or black cloth
skirts of smart cut. The hats which
will go with them will be in elegant
keeping, and, though handsomely
worked linen belts will be provided
for their girdling, others of satin,
with metal buckles and slides, will
also be seen.
Among the more elaborate bodices
shown in the fragile handkerchief
iinen are some almost as frivolous in
effect as are the chiffon and gauze af
fairs for evening use.
One in a pale azure began with a
blouse in fine kilts, over which was
placed a little bolero with blue and
white embro*deries. Kilted under
sleeves likewise embellished this trig
little creation. Although in a wash
texture —for the palest tints in those
linens are warranted to wash —it was
evident that the pretty affair must go
to the cleaner’s for rejuvenation.
In truth most of the linen models,
whether gowns or separate blouses,
point toward that rather expensive
bourne; but with careful search
French laundresses may be found who
can be trusted to turn out the plainer
garments almost as good as new. Their
work is no more reasonable than is
that of the cleaner's, except relatively,
for the price at one place will be $8
for a gown and at the other $3. But
the laundress gets the dirt out more
successfully, and with care a linen
dress may be worn a whole season
without washing. If its expensive
ness necessitates another season's
wear, be sure that you do not put it
away soiled, as laundresses say that
many garments are spoiled in this
way. The dust gets ingrained, and,
with the effort to wash it out, delicate
colors are faded and laces and em
broderies rasped.
The clerical effect in collars and
cuffs are charming details with linen
• *
THREE STUNNING BLOUSES WHICH SHOW EMBROIDERY IN SMALL
DETAILS. *
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY. APRIL 19. 1903.
nun i hi
FATHER OF THE GOVERNOR OF
NEW YORK STATE. A POWER
IN POLITICS.
The Hon. Benjamin B. Odall of New
burgh. N. Y., father of an illustrioua
family of sons, writes the following let
ter, which he hopes will be read by
every man and woman in America:
"Some years ago my life was fairly
made miserable by the pain and dis
tress I suffered from ACUTE INDIGES
TION. I was also constipated and run
down. This condition continued for
about three years. A friend of mine
who had suffered in a similar manner,
and been much benefited by using DR.
DAVID KENNEDY’S FAVORITE
REMEDY, urged me to try it. I finally
did, and it helped me from the first
dose, and I continued its use and was
CURED.
“I have recommended it to numbers
of people, and in every single instance
they have received the greatest amount
of benefit from its use.”
D/. David Kennedy’s Favorite Rem
edy is the most prompt and efficient
medicine known for Kidney, Liver,
Bladder and Blood Diseases, Rheuma
tism. Dyspepsia and Constipation.
Druggists sell it in New 50-cent Size
and the regular SI.OO size bottles.
Sample bottle—enough for trial, free
by mail.
p r. David Kennedy Corporation,
Rondout, N. Y.
Dr. David Kennedy's Salt Rheum
Cream cures Old Sores, Skin and Srofu*
lous Diseases. 50 cents.
garments of all description. Little
turnovers, with the bishop tabs run
ning down longer and slenderer than
ever, finish the high stocks. Both
they and the separate stole collars are
rich with embroidery. The needle
work is of a French handkerchief
fineness, as well as the linen used.
Embroidered sets, including a collar,
cuffs and belt, may be bought separ
ately. Many delicate colors are used
—pale pink, green, blue and yellow.
Bias bands in the tints show between
transparent lace insertions, which
may be sprinkled with French knots
in black.
This delicate and effective peppering
of black is much employed on the new
linens, even if a gown and its attend
ant laces are In the purest white.
One gown in fine white linen, with
insertions of antique lace, used the
black French knots in a novel way.
The entire gown was in alternate
strips of the lace and linen, running
around, with the linen bands widest..
The lace, which was in a pointed bor
der, was set into these bands with the
straight edge at the bottom. The
linen points fitting into the lace were
heavily worked with black knots. The
result was as if a black and white
dotted Swiss had been used.
The present tendency to supply even
the simpler wash textures in partially
made gown patterns is an encourage
ment to the home sewer, for all such
costumes must necessarily be without
the complicated seaming that dress
makers are addicted to. The skirt sec
tion, the flounce of which is often sew
ed snugly on, needs only to be seamed
at the back, hemmed, and put on the
belt.- The blouse bodice is almost as
easily put together, for the new blouse
waist demands only two seams be
sides shoulder ones, and each of the
inverted mutton leg sleeves oply one.
The finishing of the whist requires the
major part of the labor, and consid
erable knack with the needle to boot,
as stocks and cuffs must reveal careful
fit and faultless stltchery.
But remember the ready-made sets
and set to work on your embroidered
iinen gown or shirtwaist with a stout
heart. For without at least one such
garment in your summer wardrobe,
you can only expect to figure as behind
the times.
As to underwear for all these dainty
washtub fabrics, it, too, must be wash
able. With gowns in ecru linen —which
A LITTLE MURDEROUS
BYORRA CUSHING NELSON.
“Jerry Hapgood is a mean old thing
not to let me go riding. Auntie said
I could, but Jerry helped her get into
the ’mobile and said, ‘Some other day,
girlie, you can go; the ’mobile is too
small to-day!’ Such a story! It’s
just like it always is.
’’Auntie Nell only laughed and got
all pink. Oh. dear! I wish they’d get
runned away with, I do!” And tear
followed tear down Detta’s chubby
cheeks.
Meanwhile Jerry and Nell were
spinning along the beautiful Maine
coast. Forv miles they could see the
Penobscot shimmering in the sun, now
insinuating itself into some quiet bay
and washing the yellow sand with rip
pling wavelets; then recedinng, to hurl
its volume, with an unexpected roar,
into the adjacent rocky opening; and
in other places flowing on for miles
with cool green serpentine smoothness
that rested the eye and delighted the
beholder’s sense of the fitness of
things.
Their journey was ended at the fa
mous Lighthouse, where the keeper's
wife provided a delicious lunch and
plunged Nell into an enjoyable eon
fusion by asking, “Will your husband
like any more milk, marm?”
Afterwards they wandered over the
rocks, picking the few wild flowers that
grew in the crevices, and threw rocks
into the whistling well, while watch
ing the ■waves go by, as well as doing
i other delightful things that happy
young couples are wont to do.
As they started for home, Nell
flashed a mischievous look at the young
man:
“Weren’t you mean not to let Detta
come with us?”
"I suppose so,” said Jerry, “but if
you knew how I’ve tried to get you
to myself for a moment, to tell you
something I've wanted to, for a long
time —can’t you guess why I left her
behind?"
“You have known me exactly five
weeks,” put in Nell, saucily.
“Don't joke, Nell. Can’t you see I
am in dead earnest and I—” There was
a loud crack, a whiff of steam and
the auto came to an abrupt standstill.
“What under the canopy is the mat
ter with the thing?” was Jerry’s
querry, as he wildly pulled at the
lever, which refused to budge.
Then suddenly the machine gave a
jerk and a twist of its own volition.
“Hang on!” roared Jerry, as it
Started forward at full speed. “Don't
Jump unless I tell you.”
Nell bravely set her teeth, resolved
not to scream, though wild with fear.
All the tales of autos running -wild
fled through her mind as the speed in
creased.
"We are in for it, Nell, unless I can
steer it straight. To think I’ve
brought you into this,” groaned Jerry.
“’Jerry! Look—the bridge!” and
Nell clutched his arm tightly at sight
r Sale Ten Million Boxes a Year. 1
jrf—M TUB famh.t*b_ favorite medicine JL
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shade, however, is not nearly so modish
as white or other colors —pongee petti
coats with ecru lace insertions may be
worn. But a white frock requires a
white muslin underskirt with lawn
flounces. Chambray petticoats in the
same colors are highly approved for
the tinted linens.
The corset body of old-fashioned reg
ulation shape is now little worn. In its
stead fair woman covers her steel and
whalebone armor with a dainty chem
ise, which is skirt and corset cover in
one. The corset itself is worn over
a knitted undervest, which is suffi
ciently low not to show above the
chemise neck, for, no matter how fine
it is, the knitted undershirt is not a
pleasing garment. For this season
women of fastidious taste now eschew
the tinted silk article, choosing instead
vests of pure white lisle thread. Pre
ferred styles in these are entirely un
trimmed, for the wash ribbon draw
strings can scarcely be called trim
ming.
of a primitive-looking structure with
a single rail on either side. “I’d just
—as soon—blow—up, Jerry—but I
don’t want to—drown.”
The next minute they tore across
the rickety bridge in safety, only to
see loom before them an ominous
curve, with a stone wall guarding a
small farm. There was a crash, and
next instant two figures were flying
through the air.
****•
A week later Nell awoke at the far
away sound of a little voice. “Auntie,
my own auntie, won’t speak to me
’tall,” it said, and then there was the
sound of bitter sobs.
Slowly Nell opened her eyes.
“What’s the matter. Ducky?” she
asked faintly.
“Oh!” with a soft squeal of delight,
“you isn’t dead, and I ain’t a mur
derous. Jane said I was a murder
ous, ’cause I wished the 'mobile would
run away, an’ it did, but I didn’t mean
it, really. Auntie Nell," and Detta
snuggled her little face close to the
white one on the pillow, “Jerry got
hurted, but not so bad as you. He
only breaked his leg, an’ it’s in a white
stone thing.”
“There, there you must not talk
any more,” said the nurse; “let auntie
go to sleep again.”
Nell looked up in surprise.
“A nurse? Have I been ill? Jerry
—is Jerry hurt?"
“The auto ran away; don’t you re
member?” asked the nurse gently.
"Mr. Hapgood only fractured his leg
and you are both getting along nicely
now.”
“Oh, that dreadful ride. I remem
ber,” answered Nell, with a shudder.
“Where am I, and where is Jerry?"
with a slight tinge of cotor In the
pale face.
"They brought you both )nto this
old farmhouse, and Mr. Hapgood is
just at the end of the hall.”
The days passed slowly to Jerry, in
spite of the fact that he was under the
same roof as his divinity. He was
weighted down with the thought that
he had almost killed the girl that he
loved.
“She will never care for me now,”
he said to himself twenty times a day.
A severe strain of the ligaments in
conjunction with the broken limb and
his mental worry, caused a high fever
and Intense nervousness. Nell over
heard their respective nurses discuss
ing the case one day.
“I don’t like the way my patient's
ankle is coming on. Doctor seems
to think it will come out all right, but
I don't know. I’ve seen some pretty
bad cases, but nothing like this. It's
as black as ever, and it’s time that
the swelling went down.”
Then Nell heard whispers of "gan
grene,” “similar case,” and “he doesn't
take enough nourishment either. I
believe he is fretting about her.”
The blood throbbed in Nell’s tem-
CUPID’S MIRROR.
The Secret of Woman’s Beauty.
"The secret of a woman’s beauty is not
to be found in her dressing room or in
the use of cosmetics, as cynics might
intimate,” says Max O’Rell, "but lies in
resplendent health and a cheerful mind.”
"The beauty of a woman’s face or
figure is but the external sign of the
good health within,” says Dr. R. V.
Pierce, of Buffalo, the specialist in
women’s diseases. Further, to be happy
and beautiful one must naturally have
good health. Now, if a woman has
dragging - down feelings, together with
constantly returning pains and aches, a
too great drain upon her vitality and
strength, she will never look beautiful.
The feelings of nervousness, the be
fogged mind, the ill-temper, the pale
and wrinkled face, all result from those
disorders peculiar to women, and the only
way to effect their cure is to strike at
the source of the difficulty. In the first
glace a woman should know thoroughly
er own system, and this is easily ac
quired knowledge, for there are a num
ber of good doctor books on the market.
‘The People’s Common Sense Medical
Adviser,’ has perhaps been read more
largely than any other, for it is now in
its sixty - first edition, having printed
nearly two million volumes.
Anyone can obtain this book by send
ing twenty-one cents in one-cent stamps
for the paper-bound book, or thirty-one
cents for the cloth-bound book, to Dr.
R. V. Pierce, Buffalo, N. Y.
WHY WOMEN SHOULD CONFIDE IN
A MAN.
It is much easier for a woman to con
fide in the average man than in the
average woman. She knows that the
man will respect her confidences and keep
them to himself. It is said that loyalty is
usually lacking in the feminine make-up.
Without a perfect understanding there
can be no helpful advice, and not one
woman in ten places implicit confidence
in her own sex. The consciousness of her
own weakness puts her on guard against
the failings of all other women. In the
same way a woman hardly feels like con
fiding her womanly troubles—her weak
ness due to diseases essentially feminine
—to a woman. That is probably why
women do not usually succeed as phy
sicians. There is every reason why
women should not trust their delicate
constitutions in the hands of unskilled
persons. It requires a thorough medical
education to appreciate and understand
the womanly organism. When a woman
has ills and pains that she cannot bear —
when life seems dark for any woman,
she should confide her troubles to a phy
sician of standing in the community or
one who has a national reputation. Cer
tainly it would not be the part of wisdom
to confide in an ignorant person without
medical education simply because she
was a woman. There is every reason
why she should write some great special
ist, one who has made the diseases of
women a specialty for a third of a cen
tury like Dr. R. V. Pierce, founder of
the Invalids’ IJotel and Surgical In-
pies. Was it possible that Jerry was
in danger? Nurse had said he was
fretting about her: suppose she were
to send him a comforting message?
The color flamed over throat and
brow at the thought. She knew he
loved her. Would it be unmaidenly to
let him know that she, too, cared?
She thought a moment, then her
eyes danced mischievously.
"Detta! Come here!” she called to
the child, who was playing with her
doll on the floor. “Do you want to
have a secret with Auntie Nell?”
“The never-tell kind?” said the
child, crossing two little fingers under
her chin.
“Yes, dear.”
Detta listened intently as Nell whis
pered In her ear. Then she ran swiftly
down the hall to Jerry's room.
She peeked cautiously in at the door.
The nurse was out. Detta climbed
gently onto the bed and close to Jer
ry’s ear before she said:
“Auntie Nell said I was to call you
Uncle Jerry, and she sends you this.”
“This” was a moist little kiss.
“You precious little bunch,” said
Jerry, fervently, as he gave her a reg
ular "bear hug.” as Detta called it.
Whether a kiss Imprinted on one's
cheeks by proxy will cure a broken
limb, I am not prepared to say; but
certain it Is that Jerry's swollen an
kle began to mend from that hour, and
Detta told Aunt Nell that his nurse
declared there was a "wadlcal change
for the better.”
f 3EAUTY DONATS
I FOR THE STOMACH
Don’t eat when very tired, if you
expect lb get any good from your food,
and preserve your beauty.
Don’t eat more than one hearty
meal. When you are exhausted, in
stead of eating, lie down for ten or
twenty minutes.
Don't eat more than one hearty
meal a day. This Is the secret of
good looks, health and long life —a se
cret which, if every one followed, the
stitnte of Buffalo, N. Y. All oorre*.
pondence is held sacredly confidential,
and he gives his advice free and with
out charge.
SINGLE AND MARRIED WOMEN
Very often find that it is repugnant to
their feelings to consult their family
physician. In such a case they can put
perfect confidence in Dr. Pierce, who
has made such a success in the treat
ment of women’s diseases, for he
will give the very best advice possible
and without cost. To grow beautiful,
healthy and happy should be the desire
of every woman. It is then possible
to hold a husband and to make home
happy and bring contentment to it. In
most cases Dr. R. V. Pierce’s Favorite
Prescription will fit the needs and put
the body in healthy condition.
So sure of it is the World’s Dispensary
Medical Association, of Buffalo, N. Y.,
proprietors of Dr. Pierce's Favorite Pre
scription, that they offer
A SSOO REWARD
For women who cannot be cured of Leu
corrhea. Female Weakness, Prolapsus,
or Falling of womb. All they ask is a
fair and reasonable trial of their means
of cure. *
Dr. Pierce’s Favorite Prescription re
stores weak and sick women to sound
health, by curing the local womanly dis
eases which are generally responsible for
the failure of the general health. A
woman’s entire being is centered in her
womanly nature. When the delicate
womanly organism is attacked by dis
ease ; when there is irregularity or a dis
agreeable drain; when inflammation
burns and ulcers gnaw, the general
health will reflect the progress of dis
ease, in increasing weakness, nervous
ness, backache, headache, loss of appe
tite and sleeplessness.
Dr. Pierce’s Favorite Prescription cures
all these ailments, and cures them per
fectly and permanently. It wipes out
the record of suffering as a child wipes a
sum from a slate. It makes the woman
feel like anew woman, and look like
one, because it rounds out the form and
restores the healthy color to the face.
doctors could not make a living.
Don’t eat much meat in hot weather
\ if you would keep your skin free of
! eruptions.
■Don’t eat hot or fresh bread, if you
want to be healthy and beautiful.
Don’t eat cold starchy foods. like
potato salad and cold porridge, unless
you have strong digestive organs.
Don’t eat Ice cream too fast. Eaten
| slowly and allowed to melt in the
mouth it can do no harm to either
stomach or complexion.
Don't drink iced water. It kills
mope persons than strychnine does.
Cool water quenches thirst much bet
ter than ice cold fluid.
Don’t drink much water at meals,
but take a glassful the first thing in
the morning and the last thing at
night, if you want peach-blow cheeks.
Don’t drink too much coffee or tea
unless you want a complexion like
leather in color and texture,
i Don’t drink sparkling waters and
i unsweetened lemonade, if you want to
gain flesh. They act directly on fatty
j tissue.
Don’t eat potatoes, peas, macaroni,
cream, olive oil. pastry and bonbons,
if you want to lose flesh.
Don't go to bed hungry. A glass
of milk, or a cup of chocolate, will re
fresh you.
Don't think you can eat too much
spinach, lettuce, watercress, dandelion
and carrots. They are splendid com
plexion beautifiers.
Don't eat beef, the white meat of
fowl, cooked eggs or sugar, if you are
dyspeptic.
Don’t stuff a cold, lest you be obliged
to starve a fever.
Don’t eat merely to save food. Over
eating will give you a red nose and a
sallow complexion.
DR. CHARLES’
FLESH FOOD
For the Form Sc Complexion
Has been success
full; used by lend
MBr . log actresses. sing
<aQSr ers and women of
ftog— fjHS fashion for uore
than 25 years.
K2p w r Wherever applied
) it is instantly ab
2a sorbed through the
pores of the skin,
y I and ita wonderful
S \ nutrition feeds the
X V wasting tissues.
dr Removing Wrinkles
jLrsf?\ . as if by magic. n *
application often
'ri'P/Ar-* , 'p showing a remark
' i Viable Improvement
DR CHARLES
FLESH FOOD b>
positively the only preparation known to
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FOR DEVELOPING THE BUST
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AT DEPARTMENT STORES AND DRUG
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Regular prloe *I.OO a box, butte all who take
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Address, ,
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