The Savannah morning news., December 18, 1904, Page 26, Image 26

About The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current

Image provided by: Digital Library of Georgia, a project of GALILEO located at the University of Georgia Libraries

                
26
Sheerest of Fabrics and Daintiest
of Gauzes for Holiday “Buds”
Pretty Girls Who Will Make Their Bow to Society During Christmas Week Will
Be Gowned Like Fairies.
The holiday season is commonly
chosen for debutantes to make their
first bows to the social world. Dress
makers are now up to their elbows in
maidenly finery, which will appear at
Christmas balls and parties and all
the way through the months till Lent.
The majority of the gowns dis
played show the usual preference for
white, and delicate, almost child-like
simplicity of make. But since it is a
color-season, tradition is sinned
against frequently and successfully,
and toilettes in pale and charming
colors contrast elegantly with the vir
ginal models.
In matter of trimming, these charm
ing frocks likewise depart from for
mer unwritten rules, which allowed
only the simplest garnitures and
barred out lace utterly. Youthful
looking nets and laces appear in pro
fusion, shaping little gamps for low
cut bodices and embellishing fancy
three-quarter sleeves in many ways.
The Smart Sleeve,
These garnishments seem particularly
necessary for trimming sleeves, as the
smart sleeve of the moment comes to
the elbow and is decked fussily some
distance above. The set of the mod
ish arm-covering is stiff and high at
the shoulders, where the effect is ob-
I'lab.mito toilettes for debutantes and youthful chaperon.
tain<d through a discreet wiring of
the puffs. With the lowest decollet- j
age, quite long sleeves are seen, sup- |
plying for matron and maid the means
for many pretty effects. Below the sin
gle. double or triple shoulder puffing,
made by the gown texture, the white
—which may be lace, net or silk mus
lin —is put on like some of the old
undersleeves worn in the days when
ball gallants sported rosebud satin
ves:s and tucked lawn shirts. Tiny
artificial flowers, stiff little velvet
bows and rosettes of different sorts
add to their charms.
Hodices Variously Trimmed.
The bodices are variously trimmed,
but all are on the babyish gathered
order, with high corset-girdles and
some species of flat trimming about
the round decollet age. Here and there
a little bertha fall is seen, but it is
generally made of the gown texture,
or of chiffon, for, however broad the
present styles, a rich lace bertha
would be quite unsuited to a debu
tante.
A number of "don’ts” are uttered by
the good makers of bud finery, who, in
a way, are like social leaders them
selves. Among other Interdictions vi
olets, which are so frequently carried,
are described as preposterous flowers
for the coming-out bouquet, us It
should be the most girlish posy of
hot-house marguerites, or lilles-of-the
valley. Tiny buds may also be car
ried, but only In pale pink or white—
never, never yellow—and the rhine
stone dewdropa on the leafy
wreathes and gauzy bows worn in the
hair are the only gems permissible.
Textiles, Are Simple.
But if tints and lacea are allowed,
the textiles used for the prettiest com
ing out frocks are of a aut passing
simplicity. One which admits of a
dainty treatment of shirring, frills,
puffs, tucks, etc., is silk muslin whit b
at many places, goes under the newer
act like Exercise."]
the Dowels
All
DruuijUtfc
name of chiffon mousselint. Satin rib
bons and narrow simple laces like
wise trim the silk muslin gowns, as
well as bands of muslin embroidery in
the same tint. Two tinted toilettes in
chiffon mousseline illustrate. these
trimmings and methods of applica
tion.
A toilette in wild rose pink is gar
nished with narrow white lace and
pink satin ribbons. The very low bod
ice opens over a chemisette of white
net and lace, and has the ribbon ap
plied in straight bands upon the girdle
and bertha drapery. The sleeves are
of the pink mousseline and lace, three
quarter length, and ill one of the mod
els described.
The Full Gathered Skirt,
The full gathered skirt has two
deep flounces, waved top and .bottom,
and there trimmed with a frill of the
lace over one of ribbon. A second
band of ribbon laid in undulations at
the middle of each flounce, gives the
look of four ruffles.
The dress in pale blue has mousse
line embroideries in the same color.
The bodice, which is shirred around
the shoulders, is trimmed with bands,
oddly applied, and crossed at the bust
by blue satin ribbon put on suspender
fashion, with one end running under
the left arm. Shirring shapes the
girdle, and forms a band for the puff
sleeves and a deeper one for the skirt,
which also displays bands of the em-
broidery and a ribbon-edged flounce. |
The ball skirts worn by girls this
season all show gathered fullness and |
round set. Trains, in fact, are little
seen anywhere, though velvet ones on
the court order are sometimes worn
by matrons with splendid effect, over
lace petticoats. Such a train, with a
matching bodice, is supplied for one
of the winter's handsome young chap
erons. It is made of pale blue chif
fon velvet with embroidered applica
tions in mauve and pink. All siround
the train runs an embroidered and ap
plied edge in these colors. The low,
short-sleeved bodice simulates at the
front a shirred Jacket over a lace vest,
and at the decolletage the underbody
shows above the Jacket edge like a
gathered gamp. The belt and bows
on corsage and sleeves are of black
stain.
Debutantes* Gowns.
Taffetti-rnoussellne Is a much ad
mired textile for debutantes’ gowns.
More durable than silk muslin, and
more exquisite than taffeta, it admits
all the dainty smocking, shirring,
tucking, eta., which are garnitures
suited to youthful wearers. Shown
in r&vishtngly delicate tints, this
moonlight textile is yet more charm
ing In pure white, and Brussels tulle
lace Is a dentelle which trims it ef
fectively.
A white chiffon moussellne thus
garnished displays the lace put on the
skirl to outline a robe effect and
deeply border the bottom. The bod
ice, with Its shirred bretelles and
puffed vest of the lace, is of the name
quaint character.
A costume of white silk muslin
achieves the faint color admired
through a foundation of pale pink lib
erty. A Vandyked passementerie of
panne and lace edges the round neck
of this gown, and (he skirt Is trimmed
with incrustations of the Name, tulle
I lace and flounces.
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY. DECEMBER 18. 1904.
Beautiful nets showing gold and sil
ver tinsel build other debutante frocks,
and silvery cobweb laces and tiny
artificial flowers add further beauty'.
Frock of White Silk Gauze.
A dainty frock of spotted white silk
gauze has the skirt put over several
foundation petticoats of plain net. Gold
tinsel lightly outlines the pattern of
the tulle lace flounces, and wreathes
of delicate pink roses further orna
ment the skirt. Boiv motives are of
pink ribbon and the corset-belt is of
pink liberty.
Still another charming gown is of
white silk muslin over Nile-green
chiffon taffeta. The corset girdle is
of green liberty, and a large pink rose
with a diamond heart is set at the
front of the corsage.
These wonderful roses are seen on
a number of the new evening frocks,
though never more than two are used,
one tucked into the front of the body
and one placed in the belt. Single
ones often take the form of a hair
ornament, with green leaves and a
generous sprinkling of diamond dew
drops.
Tlie Itebntnnte'K Cloak.
No part of the debutante’s get-up
is more charming than the cloak
which is to cover her ball tinery. Fash
ioned of the most airy textiles, made
warm, with interlinings, some of the
Directoire cloaks show a definite bod-
Ice and full skirt. These, however,
are only advised for the slimmest fig
ures, as the belting of the waist cre
ates a somewhat clumsy look. But
If a girl can wear such a cloak she
will find it most becoming, for the full
sleeves and hood which go with it ef
fect something of the mysterious charm
of a domino. When the hood is adjust
ed over the head, flounces of lace, held
in with ribbon draw-strings surround
the face In a flower-like edge. At the
top or side of the head the draw
strings end In a big butterfly bow.
But the more convenient cloaks are
•invariably loose in fit and In coat or
cape cuts. The coats are thought
more youthful than the capes, and silk
ones in pale colors or white display
exquisite finish of lace and tulle, mix
ed 'with fringes of flowers. Cloth coats
are seen for evening wear, but they
are not thought just the thing, satin,
velvet, lace and silk supplying more
suitable textures. For the debutante,
silk of the corded ottoman sorts shapes
a number of coats, and big tucks—the
blind unstitched variety—arc used on
the sleeves and bottoms of these with
smart effect.
A New Wrinkle In Gloves.
Anew wrinkle in gloves Is that the
long suede mousquetaires may match
the tint of the frock exactly. More
white than colored gloves are worn,
however, and more white slippers
than tinted ones. But to match a
faintly colored gown slippers some
times have the toe trimmed In color,
with white lace or embroideries set
ting off the bow or rosette. All even
ing slippers are wonderfully fussy, and
everything Is seen upon them, from a
genuine diamond buckle to a little
wreath of pink rosebuds.
Fans, be It said to the shame of the
makers of modes, are dally growing
bigger. Some of the radiant Louis
sorts, with their superb pulntlngs are
still small enough not to lose In love
liness; but the fan of the moment Is
as ostrich feather affair, made In a set
form or to open and close, it Is rather
clumsy for small women, though the
Venus of Fashion will carry one off
superbly,
—Miss Isabel llagner, private secre
tary to Mrs. Roosevelt, lias a fortune
ample for all the frivolities of New
port and Tuxedo oi for division of tier
life bet aeen Fifth avenue and IPd
grave Kquare. Isjt she prefers to fol
io* lb* useful career sit* mapped out
for herself when, with s thinner
parse, eh enlerad ** ini-pu4*lP life.
I When Miss Hagn*r taine into s band*
.sunns lulls* Item a *• sully idle gave
| *£* * Wl “* ****
TOY MARVELS TO
SUIT ALL TASTES
JUVENILE FANCIES ARE MANY.
PLAYTHINGS ARE NOW lIIYI.T ON
SCIENTIFIC LINES.
The Hoy Who Love* the Navy Can
C lioone Between a Steam Warship
niid a Torpedo Hunt—Dolly’s Dread
ing Table Ih a* Ornate as Miladt
.Millionaire*’!'—'The Little Girl ot
Domeatic Taatea May Cook on Her
Own Wee Ga* Stove.
New York, Dec. 17.—The rich old
grandfather, the generous bachelor
uncle, the absorbed but willing fath
er who visits the up-to-date toy shop,
will become fairly bewildered by the
gorgeous array of playthings spread
before him. He may indulge in a few
backward glances—mentally, of course
—wherein his boyhood’s supply of toys
will pass in puny array before his vis
ion, and from this mental condition he
will, unless unusually strong-minded,
lapse into a second childhood peculiar
only to the holiday season. He will
want to remain all day and make
friends with these beautiful toys, but
when he has recovered his mental
equilibrium, he must bring his logic
to bear and fit his selection to the
small boy or girl whose faith in Santa
Claus Is just beginning to waver.
A Miniature Trolley System.
The boy who would follow his fath
er as manager of a street car line can
this year have an electric road of hts
own with a third rail, regulated by a
block system which prevents one car’s
being liberated from a switch until
the other has passed a certain point.
Or if he prefers the responsibility of
a big railroad, his Santa Claus can
supply him with up-and-down grade
steam car tracks, and engines carrying
freight cars with cog wheels to keep
them from jumping the tracks. The
up-grade brings the cars to a loop that
(Continued on Opposite Page.)
DR* CHARLES
FLESH
FOOD
/ great
BEAUTIFIER
Dr. Chirks Flesh Pood i< the orrstrxt
boautliler peer puton tho market. It Is the
only preparation known to medical sclenoe
that will creolr g . and, lirm hralihy ilcsh,
and clear tho complexion of overs’ blemish
such as pimples, blackheads, Sc c. without
Internal medicine.
FOR RBMOVINO WRINKI.KS It is With
out an equal.
FOR OEVKLOPINO VHB BUST or restor
ing a wasted breast lost through nursing
or sickness, m km thin charts plump mid
tilling the hollows of a scrawny neck. there
Is no other preparation in the world that
has any comparison.
'•PFCIAL siFPI! / .—The regular price of
Dr. Charles Flesh Food Is f 1 .111 a box, hut
to Introduce It into thou-snus of iiuw
homes we have decided to -end two lit)
bole* (out! who answer this advertisement
and send us tl.ih. All packages are sent
in plain wrapiier, postage prepuld.
ON SALK AT DANIEL MOO AN.
m; L*~ A WMnll* bo* which oontMius
<‘uouiiii of !>r, C'liorl## Kloeh
Food for MUX otii to M*4 . rli*ln iti gr*ul
founts will I m M*ti( t4# mux *<l<irri mlhmi
V fttrn, If 1H iff uni! to JHIV fill B|l of
luullifm Our imMilt “Art of Mtiiiit"
will* h tumulus mII III* oorrwet
for iiiMMMiritif ilu tm*w, n*< k mo*! uuua.
mM full 'lire* U*IM for Ifttu
boat. wMI kiwi Im aunt with ttila Miuflw.
Dr. Charles Co.'*JSJmmi
Us dels et s'l Ijs*isi lisps/1 asset
i NMSiest ISstfMi 1
Dainty Blouses and Com
binations as Holiday Gifts
There's Nothing More Pleasing in Fashion's Realm to the Girl of Limited
Dress Allowance .
By Katherine Anderson.
The Christmas gift of to-day shows
an odd co-mingltng of the old holiday
spirit and the newer practical ideas.
A gift which saves the recipient mon
ey laid aside for frocks is far more
welcome than a piece of Jewelry quite
out of proportion to the woman’s style
of dressing, or a trumpery bit of bric
brac for an already crowded room.
To make a practical gift doubly wel
come one has only to select an arti
cle of wearing apparel w'hich is truly
festive—to know just where to draw
the line between a too, too practical
gift and something which carries only
holiday suggestions.
The rich old aunt in search of some
thing for her niece whose dress allow
ance is small or who is perhaps living
on the average salary of an office em
ploye, can select no more desirable
gift than a dainty blouse. The puzzled
bachelor uncle w'ill do w’ell to call in
some experienced shopper to aid him
in the selection of a similar gift, and
as a college girl can never have too
many extra bodices, any number of
her family may feel justified in choos
ing this gift. As for the mother—the
busy, practical mother—a blouse that
is just a little out of the ordinary, with
some touch of extravagance such as
she would banish from her mind when
shopping for herself. Is sure to be
welcome.
The Gift Blon*e.
In selecting a blouse for a gift it is
of the utmost importance to acertain
the color and style of the skirt with
which it will be worn. It Is absolute
ly essential that the blouse this year
should have precisely the color tone of
the skirt, and further than the fabric
of the one should tone perfectly with
the fabric of the other.
Many smartly dressed women cling
to the independent blouse, independent
In fabric, but not in color, and she
who has a broadcloth or silk skirt In
white has a blouse also in white,
though in a different material. The
girl who looks well In pale blue may
have a broadcloth skirt built on Di
rectoire lines, with several pale blue
blouses to match, and the same With
gray. In fact, it is becoming some
thing of a vogue for girls to adopt the
most becoming color and wear It al
most exclusively.
Illonse anal Skirt Mast Harmonise.
Very few women who make any pre
tentions to good dressing offer a strik
ing contrast between blouse and skirt.
Even the black skirt with a gay bodice
has gone out. In Its stead for wear
with black house skirts slightly train
ed, come Independent blouses In va
rious black materials. For the plainer
bodice, silk mull, liberty silk and chif
fon are shirred and corded In elaborate
designs over silk, with a fanciful gir
dle of black silk. More dressy are the
Jetted bodices either In net or chiffon
over black silk. Asa rule these are
made up very simply that the Jetted
pattern may stand out in all Its beauty.
They can be bought ready to make up
at a very reasonable figure.
The woman who has a limited dress
allowance pins her faith on black and
white, and the white waists for wear
with white broadcloth or silk skirts
were never more effective. Here the
three-quarter sleeve is especially popu
lar. Very girlish arc the shirred and
corded waists evolved from chiffon,
net Hnd mull, and while the shirring
in almost every Instance runs around
the body, a long effect is given to the
garment by bringing each row of shir
ring to a point hack and front.
The Season's Sleet e.
A very pretty example shows a V
shaped yoke of flue tuika shirred
lengthwise In white chiffon over silk.
The three-quarter puff sleeves are
shirred end lucked on horlsonlsl lines,
ending at the elbow In double ruffle*
The tucking and shirring of the tiodti e
gre also hortaoiilal, following th* V•
shape of the yoke, and a UiapcU girdla
comes to a similar point In the froni
and is finished with two rosettes at the
back.
On slightly more elaborate lines is
a white dinner blouse of chiffon over
white louisine. It fastens in the back
and has a yoke design showing Re
naissance bow-knots on a plain chif
fon ground, and from each bow-knot
depends a bunch of berries em
broidered in silk. This yoke is round
and the blouse section of the waist is
set in with very fine shirrings and
tucks, while just above the girdle are
five deeper tucks shirred. The sleeve
is shirred just above and below the
elbow, ending in a double graduated
flounce, and the belt is of white
louisine, draped, and finished with ros
ettes.
A Dainty Afternoon YYuist.
A dainty afternoon waist and one of
the few offered with a full length
sleeve, shows a mass of handwork. It
is fashioned from Japanese grass linen
of exqqisite sheerness, and fastens in
the back so that the elaborate hand
work on the plain front is unbroken.
The yoke, built on irregular, waving
lines, is laid in very fine hand-run
tucks defined top and bottom with
narrow boullionne bands of the linen
joined with fagoting in very tine
thread. Rows of tine tucking, nar
row bouillonnes and Valenciennes in
sertion showing a coin spot are all
joined together with fancy stitches to
make the body portion, while across
the front are sprays of lotus leaves
and blossoms buttonholed on the fine
linen, cut out and appliqued upon the
blouse. The sleeve is split up the out
side seam to admit a soft, narrow
puff of the linen on which is set
graduated ruffles of tucking, edged
with lace to match the insertion.
A Dodice of White Silk.
A bodice of sheerest white silk
shows marvelous handwork decora
tions in fagoting around appliques of
tulips which run down the front of the
bodice, and from the shoulder seams
to the sleeve giving the effect of a ber
tha appliqued upon cloth.
An extremely smart bodice for wear
with a tobacco-brown broadcloth was
of the same shade of chiffon over silk.
Being for dinner wear it was cut with
Trimming and Lighting
the Christmas Tree
The Christmas tree of 1904 will be
a marvel of artistic effects and me
chanical perfection. The new orna
ments are ablaze with color, or they
gleam with spangled and tinseled ef
fects, while, from the illumination of
the tree to the miniature scenes with
which it is banked, no effort has been
spared to introduce up-to-date embel
lishments. While modern machinery
has brought Christmas tree ornaments
down to a very reasonable figure, many
of them can be reproduced by deft fin
gers in the home circle at cheaper
prices and with equally good results.
For instance, almost any girl can
make little figures of heavy paper,
pasting on heads of Santa Claus, ba
bies, angels or pretty girls, and dress
them in suitable cloaks and garments
built from sheet cotton batting sprink
led thickly with silver dust. From this
same sheet wadding snowballs may be
formed and fastened to the tree by a
thin wire. Cornucopias, rounded from
silver paper, are effective ornaments
and are a good substitute for candy
boxes. Long crystal prisms which
dangle from old-fashioned lamp globes
or candlesticks, if removed and hung,
one on the tip of each branch, give
the effect of icicles In the sunlight, on
a morning after Jack Frost has visited
the trees In the midst of a rain storm.
In connection with these homemade
decorations, the Christmas tree will
glisten and sparkle if tinseled orna
ments are Interspersed. Beets and
carrots splendidly reproduced in pa
pier mache have sprouts of tinsel
leaves. Glass balls showing brilliant
green, red or blue hues glisten from
a lilling of tinsel, and are set In a
circle of tinsel leaves. Clusters of
holly or mistletoe are encased in
bunches of tinsel, while stars, dwarf
trees and sprays of asparagus vine are
built entirely from tinsel.
The danger of Are at a Christmas
festivity is practically done away with
by the use of odd und dainty fairy
lamps instead of the colored candles
of past ears. Cup-shapes made from
translucent composition show laugh
ing faces of monks and Brownies,
are lighted by a short, fat tallow can
dle. With a pencil and brush clever
fingers can produce these lamps from
v * * i filHf 1 (Muif tr In
a V-shaped neck and thre-quarter
sleeves. The chiffon was draped over
the silk in accordion pleating, and the
sleeves were merely two graduated
flounces in accordion pleatings, and
edged with fine rows of niching. The
neck was outlined by a band of chff
fon applique studded with topaz, and a
piece of the trimming stiffened like
a stock end, fell from the point of the
neck to the waist line where it ended
in a point finished with topaz fringe
The girdle was also studded, and set
at intervals across the front and on
the sleeves following the V-shape of
the neck were tiny rosettes of chiffon
with a topaz in the heart of each.
For a Girl of Unlimited Means.
Many a girl of limited dress al
lowance has a pale colored skirt and
high-necked blouse upon which she
depends for semi-dressy occasions
Given a low-necked bodice to match
this skirt and she is equipped for a
smart dinner or informal evening
function.
Avery simple but effective decollete
blouse for wear with a pale pink skirt
was developed from a pink repousse
lace which is a yard and a half wide
and $3 a yard. Three-quarters of a
yard was employed for shirring over
the silk foundation of exactly the
same shade and for the puffs which
formed the short sleeves. A gradu
ated bertha coming to a deep point
back and front was formed from t
lace edging which exactly matched the
all-over, and which costs $1.50 a yard.
This fell over the sleeves so that the}’
did not require a lace flounce, but
were finished with a dainty ruching
of the all-over. The chic touch of the
bodice was a corsage garniture of
exquisite pink rosebuds in chiffon ar
ranged in garlands with chenille leaves
of a soft green tint. On the left side
just below the shoulder was a soft
chou of ribbon to match the sink in
the lace, and the hair ornament was
of the same pink ribbon with rose
buds and leaves nestling in the heart
of the bow. The perfect blending
of pinks in the skirt and the blouse
with the daintily chosen green of the
leaves achieved a most effective get
up.
isinglass. Heads of imps and ani
mals, or a crescent showing the man
in the moon serve as lanterns, the
light shining through transparent eyes
and mouth.
However, nothing is so satisfactory
and safe for illuminating the Christ
mas tree as tiny electric bulbs of dif
ferent colors scattered thickly through
the branches and attached to wires
which receive their power from a
portable battery. In a house having
electric service the wires from the
tree may be connected with one of
the house wires, and the separate bat
tery will not be necessary. The cost
of two or three dozen bulbs with the
accompanying wires and battery will
be from $4 to $6.
For banking about the foot of the
tree, the prettiest of inexpensive toys
are displayed, music boxes under a
platform where children are singing
or dancing, miniature Ferris w'heels,
loop-the-loops, saw mills which are
revolved by water power, leaden fig
ures representing soldiers from the
Russian and Japanese army, and fig
ures of all the funny folic in comic
supplements of the Sunday papers. In
all these decorations it is to be re
gretted that there is each year less
of the original spirit of Christmas—
the celebration of the birth of the
Christ child.
WEAVING CHRISTMAS
GREENS AND WISHES.
1.
She deftly Weaves the Christmas
greens
And fashions wreaths of holly;
And though her whole attention seems
Bent on her task, ’tis folly
To fancy ’tis of this she dreams.
2.
Her thoughs have wandered far
away
To joys of Christmas morning;
And now and then are wont to stray—
Despite instinctive warning—
To what He’ll offer her that day.
3.
She knows full well her uncles and
Her many faithful lovers
Will give with ever lavish hand;
Yet. in her heart, there hovers
Suspense—His gift! Best in the land!
Ruby Douglas.