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Atlanta Georgian. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1912-1939, January 18, 1914, ATLANTA, Image 54

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn89053729/1914-01-18/ed-3/seq-54/

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The “Blue Bird” Costume, De
veloped in Blue Velours de
Laine. The Straight Front
Waistcoat and Cutaway
Jacket Are Most Chic.
Lady duff-gordon, the
famous “Lucile of London,
and foremost creator of fa
dlions in the world, writes each week
the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting all that is newest and best
in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s new Pans
establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s American
establishment is al Nos. 37 and V)
West Fifty-seventh street. New York
By Lady Duff-Gordon
(“Lucile”)
rt ST how far and fast the fur fad
j will last Is an open question.
J 1 am inclined to think that fur
i 1 disappear with great sudden
less as soon as the Riviera season
opens. This fad started last August
and it "took” so violently that, of a
verity, it must be shortened.
The minute a fad becomes popu
larized, its death Knell sounds. Fur
Is not only used in gowns and hats,
but in lingerie and night gowns!
Hut of ihis, I will tell you later in
my letter.
Bearing in mind the thought that
fur will go with the Winter winds. I
am sending you some first Spring
designs, and as you will see. there
is less evidence of fur than in the
Winter costumes. Hut the mull re
mains, of course.
The Blue Bird costume is a favor
ite of mine. It is created in a dark
blue velours de laine. The skirt is
one of the few plain models on
which Fashion deigns to smile. It
is the coal which brings happiness,
is it not delightful? And withal, so
simple. It buttons snugly to the.
collar, across the chest. The croAs
piece fastens with two buttons over
a waistcoat of bright sulphur
woolen cloth. The whole effect is
severe but most smart.
Rattier a contrast is the "Dinard"
afternoon wrap, of mustard colored
cloth and brown skunk fur. which
is an excellent model for early
Spring. The muff, of the fur, may
be a bit oppressive in appearance,
but it is necessary to complete the
costume.
In the next picture there is a muff
which is more suggestive of Spring
It is made of brown and green plaid
silk, edged with dyed fox. The cos
tume with which it is worn is a
simple little affair, designed for a
very pretty debutante. The fabric
is the serviceable charmeuse and
ihe shade is apple green. The
bodice, so girlish in its design, has
a novel neck decoration and a new
button arrangement. These buttons
extend down the skirt several
inches The fold on the left sido is
an offset Io the fur edged silt.
The bell shaped hat. edged with
■or. is suggestively demure and
girlish.
More pretentious in fabric, if not
n design, is the purple plush cos
irme with its white turn back col
ir. and stunning waistcoat of white
. elvel file whole costume is lined
itb violet satin. The hem is turneu
ip at tin back and sides so as to
show this lining
Os course, my lad' wears a pur
•de liat with an osprey fantasie and.
of course, she carries an ermine
nuff.
Mot, than a hint of the Spring
addon is given in the blue-gray
siTetu costume which 1 have named
Woods in Spring.'' The short,
■e itided coat is excellent: the skirt.
Iruped in the back and gathered at
he feet is equally excellent The
belt or girdle outlining the waist
s decorated with a queer gold and
silver ornament
Taffetas are to be very chic, in
fat t a taffeta season is immediately
ahead of us
And now to tell you of the near
nothing lingerie! Never again, will
women wear the serviceable muslins
and cambrics of the past' And
f 10
lilll <
■fl-ni
I.■ J
Dinard Wrap of Mustard Colored Cloth. Trimmed with
Brown Skunk Fur. The Open Neck Effect Is Becom
ing and Will Remain Chic for Many Months.
naturally enough, the very shapes of
our undergarments are changing to
conform with the shapes of our outer
clothes.
The very newest nightdress is
slit up the left side from the hem
—almost —to the knee, the open
ing being edged or softened by a little
frilling of the lace which figures
: gain on the very low-cut neck and
the short sleeves. ’
But really the said slit is not as
noticeable as you might imagine, for
the reason that the nightdress itself
is made of the faintest flesh-pink
ninon and is of such a flimsy trans
pareney that it is hardly visible to
the naki'd eye!
However, the fact remains that the
fashion for the slit skint Ims now
and in tin' fullest and most literal
sense of the word reached its limit-!
Then there is another new style
and sensation in the way of flu' robe
de nuit—really the merely ordinary
term of "nightdress" is hardly ap
plicable to such an exquisite and
ethereal affair!
Some Points Concerning Invitations and Answers
THE Winter season brings a
host of social duties which
must be fulfilled if one would
keep up one's reputation for polite
ness and keep in touch with friends
and acquaintances. It may be a duty
to entertain a little in return for
hospitalities, it is always a duty to
lie prompt in Replying to imita
tions. The recognition of the civili
ties of others is one of the funda
mentals of good manners.
Invitations need to be sent out
well in advance in order to secure
guests in the whirl of the season;
three or four weeks in advance for
formal dinners and at least two
weeks ahead even for very informal
luncheons.
The formal card of invitation is
used by persons who entertain fre
quently. It is engraved in script,
with open spaces where the name of
a guest, the date, horn- and tho
words "at dinner" are written
For a dinner or any evening en
tertainment the names of host and
hostess appear on an invitation. For
day occasions, except weddings, the
name of the hostess alone is used.
\n engraved card for evening bears
the words:
Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hall
request the pleasure of
company
on
at o'clock.
The engraved address follows.
There may be a line written in a
lower corner. To go afterward to
the Assembly." or "to the
play " The various dances, hitherto
called "Cotillons." are now to be
And this, you must know,
is made with a fish-tail train,
whose long point is edged
with the lace, which is then
continued in curved inser
tion form rigt up the sides
of the closely clinging semi
transparency of palest pink
nintin to be joined together
eventually in the centre of
the rerp decollete corsage iu
the bonds of a beautifully
embroidered true lover's
knot.
So, altogether, the answer
io the riddle of "When is a
nightdress not a night
dress?" will emphatically and
truly be "When it is ninon—for then
ii is nothing!" And there are times
when 1 it is made of chiffon!
Thtise other flowered ninon trans
parencies, of which you had early
news, are having the most extraor
dinary success, s<> much so that a
now model is being introduced to
enter into friendly rivalry with those
first and absolutely plain creations
which banished all trimming save
By Mrs. Frank Learned, Author of "The Etiquette of New York To-day.”
<1 nx i <v*>x <x ♦ zx. 1 .... •* X ■.. ■ 1.1..... • • aI. n • ...... 4 n 1. _ ...... .*• j : ,: . ?. t_ . r. _ .. •.x. * .
designated as "Assemblies.” the
time-honored "Cotillon” having van
ished from fashion and general
dancing being in favor.
Although invitations for formal
tittup ivi tututat
dinners are usu
ally engraved.
Tt is more the
custom to write
invitations for
semi-formal af
fairs. Certain
rules are ob
served. Note
paper of best
quality, with ad
dress engraved
at the head, is
used, words are
carefully spaced,
names are writ
ten on separate
lines.
Dinners and
luncheons in
honor of debu
tantes are the
order of the
.lllllUUf-dl till I I Cl I J
A
I
••There mnM he mo day. An invita
delay In nnnwer- tion to a lunch
inu mi invltntion** eon may* be:
Mrs.VHenry Mason
requests’the pleasure of
Miss Robinson's
company at luncheon
on Friday, January the second,.
at halfpast one o'clock,
to meet
Miss Dorothy Blank
Altbougft the full name of a hos-
Copyrigbt. lt>H
fOill. ' JSMS
■E ,■ f
Debutante Costume of Apple Green Charmeuse,
Showing the New Buttoned Effect on Bodice
and the Looped Display on the Left Side.
just the little flat ribbon which was
used —and necessary—to catch to
gether. in the centre, the slight ful
ness of the folds which took becom
ing and comfortable curves over the
bust.
This later —and. some may tliiuk.
lovelier—.shape is still made in ninon,
with a floral device patterned on the
filmy white or flesh pink ground. But
its rather deep round at the neck is
tess is given byway of a distinc
tive understanding, the full name of
a guest is not written unless there
may be some reason for making a
clear indication for whom the invi
tation is intended. The envelope
containing an invitation should
have the frill name and street ad
dress. j
Informal invitations are notes in
the first person and are briefly ex
pressed. i
Dear Mrs. Blank:
Will you and Mr. Blank dine
with us informally on Friday
evening. January the second, and
go to the play?
Yours sincerely.
MARY HALL.
Care in observing the form of an
invitation should enable the recipient
to reply correctly, yet many persons
are in doubt what to do. It must be
borne in mind that the same for
mula is used sos an answer as that
which is embodied in the invitation.
If in the third person, it is answered
in that form: if tn the first- person,
that formula is required.
While the rules of etiquette govern
the form and may be learned, it must
be always remembered that courtesy
and consideration for others are
principles which underlie social cus
toms. There should be no delay in
replvlng to an invitation which re
quests the pleasure of one's com
pany. To wait to send an answer on
the chance of receiving a more de
sirable invitation in the interval is
extremely discourteous and is a
selfish disregard of the convenience
4. by the Star Company. Great r/ tain X
The “Bota” " »
Costume of s t - i
Purple
Brocaded
Plush, with
Stunning
New
“Belted in”
Waistcoat.
Transparent Collar andC’uffs Are the Very Latest
Fad in Paris.
so 11 we d and
formed by a nar
row edging and
a rather broadly
scalloped yoke of
fine Valenciennes,
the same dainty
finish being given
to the sleeves,
which end their
brief and beauti
ful career just
above the elbow.
And then, finally,
a narrow inser
tion of lace pur
sues its curved
career some few
inches above the
ninon at the hem,
and where the
filmy flowered
fabric is slit up
the right side
(for only a mod
est • nine or
ten inches in
ICU HIVUVO 444
this case!) the lace is carried to i
the edge, so that its shadowy curves j
show up prettily against the ankle.
And as to undergarments—they
also are arriving at the vanishing
point! For they start late and end ;
early, and the newest and most elu- i
sive fabric for their working is fine
net! I
A typical pair of combinations in
this particular fabric is such a light
of the hostess, who wishes to know
whom she may expect. Although the
social world takes refusals as a mat
ter of course and fills up the gaps,
a hostess wishes to have time to find
eligible, substitutes and not be com
pelled to have an ill-assorted collec
tion of guests. Acceptances or re
grets. therefore, should be sent with
in twenty-four hours after receiving
invitations to dinners, luncheons or
card parties.
An ‘invitation to a dinner suggests
a greater compliment than is con
veyed by an invitation to any other
- I
'hh L-
Ml
i Tt
L 1
social affair.
A n accept
ance of a din
ner invitation
makes it obliga
tory not to al
low any but the
most serious
cause to inter
fere with being
present. Illness
or very unex
pected reasons
may arise, it is
true, and in a
case of the sort
a note of expla
nation or a tele
gram must be
sent immediate
ly to the hos
tess.
It is never al
lowable to en
ter into any dis
cussion or pro
vision with an
invitation to dim
invitation may be
Rights Reserved.
•‘lf® not llernilH
xinle for n wife to
accept nml n hu»-
linnil to regret."
ner. even when the
e semi-formal. It is
burden that only two long and nar
row shoulder-straps of satin ribbon
are needed for its upholding. In fact,
anything else is rarely used now. as
chemises or combinations, whose fab
ric was continued over the shoulders
and there finished off in the once or
dinary and ’universal way with lace
edgings and ribbon threadings, would
be unsightly and impossible as worn
with and clearly visible through the
seamless, semi-transparent curves of
the fashionable corsage.
For tlie rest, this particular and
pretty net garment is arranged with
alternating groups of graduated tucks
and tapering insertion of lace and
hand embroidered sprays of Howers,
the same decoratively combined de
sign being repeated on the short and
narrow legs, and the whole tiling be
ing so lovely that it will certainly be
worn over the corsets and an inner
vest, and so do the duty of camisole
and pettieoat or knickers as well.
For three frarments—nnn nt
ror uiree garments —one ot these
being the corset —represent the maxi
mum of underwear which the woman
who wants to be fashionable and
slender will consent to don this sea
son. Wherefore the sale for chemise
and knicker sets has come to a sud
den and almost complete end, so far,
at any rate, as the lawn and cambric
garments are concerned.
Fascinating frivolities in net and
ninon and crepe de chine are eer-
not courteous to say that one will
come if in town, or if one has recov
ered from illness; nor is it permis
sible for a wife to accept and for a
husband to regret, or vice versa.
A reply to an invitation should be
explicit and decisive. The custom is
to repeat the date and hour when the
occasion requires definite punctual
ity, thus:
Mr. and Mrs.
accept with pleasure
Mr. and Mrs. ’s
invitation for dinner
on Tuesday evening,
January the Sixth
at eight o’clock.
When writing a regret it is cus
tomary to say that “Mr. and Mrs.
regret that a previous engagement
prevents them from accepting Mr.
and Mrs. N ’s kind inivtation.”
The rule is to accept a first invita
tion whenever it is possible to do so.
Answers to invitations are written
on note-paper, not on cards.
It must be remembered that an ac
ceptance or a regret is written in the
present tense. It is not correct to
write "will accept," or “will be un
able to accept." or that “a previous
engagement will prevent," etc.
Answers to invitations are ad
dressed invariably to the hostess
alone.
Friends or acquaintances who are
in mourning are not invited to formal
dinners or luncheons, but they should
receive invitations for weddings, re
ceptions, “coming-out" teas for de
butantes and for all affairs of a gen
eral nature when it is proper and
courteous to notify them of any im
portant social occurrence in a family.
“Woods in Spring,” a Delight
ful Morning Costume of
Blue-Gray Taffeta Lightly
Trimmed with Sealskin.
taiuly secured sometimes for wear
when corsetless and tea-gowned ease
is to be enjoyed; but as the necessary
completion for daytime and evening
costumes, a very closely fitting and
short chemise and outer knickers or
calotte of milanese silk or crepe de
chine are the invariable and really
rather sensible wear.
No attempt is being made to popu
larize a new “jupon-culotte" of milan
ese silk, which, by means of a cou
ple of inner and simple fastenings,
can either be worn as knickers or
petticoat.
It is very cleverly and closely
shaped, and it is all bordered with a
very slight and flat gauging, which
follows its upward curve at the sides
and its opening up the front. But,
on the whole, I think the actual
knickers are more practical as well
as smarter.
Some women, however, do not like
the constriction of the elastic gath
ering which finishes them off at the
knees, and so a good many are now
being made to hang loosely there and
are edged with a tiny belting of lace
or ribbon, their slight opening at
either of the outer side seams being
surmounted by a true lovers’ knot)
bow or a wreath of wee flowers.
Altogether, our every item of attire
is so delightfully dainty this season
that is a special joy—to say
nothing of an expense!
But in spite of —and in strange
contrast to—the present vogue for
essentially feminine and fascinating
garments, this present season is also
giving more than usual prominence
to the pajamas which were once mo
nopolized by the "mere man,” but
which now, as designed for women's
wear, are being made in white, pink,
blue or black tricot—and made to
measure, too, please note!
Others are being modelled in crepe
de chine, but, though a certain and
very youthful type of girl can man
age to look exceedingly piquant in
such night attire, it is hopelessly
unbecoming to the majority of women.
And, really, even for travelling pur
poses, there is no necessity for it to
be adopted, as the very plain night
dress of crepe de chine — modelled on
pajama lines, as regards its fastening
at the neck and its finishing with a
breast, pocket—is just as practical
and infinitely prettier and more suit
able.
And my final word, at the moment,
on the subject of underwear and
night dresses will be to proclaim crepe
de chine as the ideal material and'
the simplest style of making as the
smartest.
I have often previously drawn at
tention to this particular mid perfect
fabric, and so I take a certain
amount of personal pride in being
able to tell you now that It is ilie
success of the season, it being already
certain'that it will supersede all I lie
ordinary and once universal white
lawns and so forth.
This fact is. indeed, being so fully
realized by the buyers of all the lead
ing outfitting departments thut they
are. I hear, making their arrange
ments and placing their orders ac
cordingly.
Ix>t me give you a "tip." however,
which will insure some permanent
satisfaction with every such newly
acquired crepe de chine garment.
Be sure to always choose them In
pink shadings, as the pure white h
apt to acq,._r a Vellowish tinge aftei
a certain aiuoimt of washing, whereas
the pink will in course of time only
grow slightly and still attractively
paler. ,
I

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