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Up GcMfilrv/ I UrtH■li mm ml J£y Lindsay 4 fMADE the 300 mile* | journey up to David, ' y the capital of the / Province of Chlrlqul, / In a coasting steamer / of the house-boat / type, with open lower I desk and galvanized 1 and only 6 feet draft David was founded !| A. somewhat more than \ a century ago by the 1 rf the first of the Pans- if ———^ man Obaldias, who j * created a princely J: 1- estate from a royal grant of land. Mangote, situated about 8 miles from 1 the town, is now in the hands of his \ great-grandsons, whose father was \ - lately president of the republic. Be fore the revolutionary days many \lg Chiricano landowners maintained a YH lordly estate in peace and prosperity. David Is an attractive place, clean \||| and orderly as a Dutch burg and pic- j||| turesque as a Tyrolean hamlet Along the broad, drab lengths of the streets uggsPS are lined modest dwellings with * whitewashed walls, red-tiled roofs, and blue and green doors and window shutters. The most pretentious rest- |g§. >gl dences are no more than two-storied frame structures, with 10 rooms at Ig most and a patio in the rear. Of the i| 5.000 inhabitants perhaps 50 are “well H to do," In the conventional sense of Bwj the phrase. The remainder are super- |||||||*|||| latively poor, measured by the stand ard of dollars and cents, but passing i rich in fact by reason of having everything, that they need and probably all they desire. Everyone seems to secure an easy live lihood, but precisely how is difficult to determine. A hard worker is not to be seen, but neither Is a beggar nor a vagrant, and the municipality does not boast any such institution as an almshouse, i However, the matter Is divested of much of its mystery when one considers that land as prolific -as any lit the world Is to be had for the taking, and a man’s outfit of clothing consists of threa pieces—straw hat, shirt, and cotton trousers— ■while a woman gets along very well with one gar ment, and children are not encumbered to that extent. Although the dry season was well-nigh spent, everything looked fresh and green the morning that I galloped out upon the llano on my way to Dtvala., My moso, a long, lean fellow with a melancholy visage, followed at a pace which he never varied, but which later experience taught m could always .be depended on to bring him up with me at the end of a ride. Man never possessed s less appropriate name than his. Pantaleon—'"panther lion"—was possibly be stowed upon him In a spirit of irony. He was profoundly, self-possessed and had the commend able characteristic of confining his attention to his own business and just so much of his em ployer’s as properly concerned him. Before us stretched one of the llanos, which He, like grassy Islands in a forest sea, at Intervals all alqng the Pacific slope of the Cordillera. For 4 miles onward and 2 on either side of ns the ground extended in a sweep as level as a billiard table and as green. Wltb its thick covering of jenjebrillo, the tract looked strikingly like a bit ' of the blue-grass country of Kentucky. Here and there a wild fig or a celbo threw Its heavy-leafed branches wide, affording grateful shelter for man and beast. On every side the close ranks of the forest trees hemmed the llano in, and away be yond in our front rose the jabbed teeth of the sierra, with the smoking cone of El Volcan pro jecting beyond the ruck. A well-worn crack Indicates the shortest route to the point where the road enters the forest. We keep It in sight tor the sake of preserving our bearing, otherwise one might ride unrestrain edly on the darkest night Over this flat expanse, ' unbroken by gullies and devoid of burrows. In fact. I have crossed It at a hand gallop In a downpour of rain, when my horse's ears were not distinguishable and the blurred lights of David made a lurid beacon patch In the distance. * These llanos are the “commons" of the people —the poor man’s grazing ground. We pass small herds of from 10 to 20 head, nibbling the herbage, which Is ample for sustenance but not sufficiently rich and plentiful to condition them for market. Scattered over the range are a few mares, with foals at their heels. In this country they ride and work only the male horses, leaving the fe males constantly at grass. This Is obviously a had system, for It retards hereditary transmission and results In the development .of serviceable qualities on one side only. The animals are un dersized and the breed poor, the beet Strain being derived from Peruvian stallions. Despite his un promising appearance, however, the Panamanian pony is apt to surprise you with a wonderful dis play of stamina. I have been carried fifty-odd miles by one In twelve hours and found him fit for a good day’s journey the next morning. They •re easy-going beasts, with a single-foot gait, and If one wIH be content to ride them In the manner to which they are accustomed, quite as service able as the average mount to be picked up in Central or South America. It Is distinctly advis able, however, to get rid of the greasy hair bridle of the country, even though no better substitute than a piece of clean rope Is available. Failure to take tbia precaution once cost me a sore hand of which 1 was not cured for weeks. Now and again a traveler jogs by, with a mut tered “Buenoa dies”—a salutation that is never omitted by mas. woman or child. The rider wears a conical straw hat, a cotton shirt, flap ping tree In the wind, and a pair of blue jeans. Bare feet are stuck In the wooden stirrupa. He and bis steed are festooned with bags, baskets and packages, the tout ensemble suggesting an Itinerant Christmas tree. Stuck under the saddle flap, or elsewhere beyond ready reach. Is a rifle or shotgun, of ancient make, probably unservice able, and almost certainly unloaded. Everyone goes armed upon the road. Occasional reminders of less peaceful times are seen in a small wooden cross set In the ground and surrounded by a rude rail fence. Indi cating the spot where some unfortunate met a violent death In the commission of a crime. Pan taleon rode alongside as I approached one of these unconsecrated burying places that contained two crosses With emotionless precision he told the grizzly tale of two compadres who had fallen out and here had fought to the death with their knives. Compadres are bosom companions, bound by a bond closer than that of brotherhood. Only a woman can break that tie, and when compadre turns against compadre bell knows no greater bitterness. These two hacked each other until they fejl, gasping and bleeding, and foaming at the mouth, still jabbing with waning strength. They were found dead, locked in each other’s arms. Perhaps at the very last the spirit of com padreshlp returned to soothe their passing. I put this reflection to Pantaleon, but he de clared H more likely that they died cursing each other and thinking of the girl. My own conclu sion pleased me better, but I felt bound to defer to my moso's superior knowledge of the charac teristics of his countrymen. Presently the road entered the monte, and we rode between wooden walls reinforced by heavy undergrowth. At long intervals we passed small clearings where the settler bad cut over the ground, burned the debris where It fell, and scat tered his seed with a careless, confident hand. The machete is the universal agricultural imple ment. A plow has never been seen In the coun try. Cultivation is neglected as an unnecessary trouble. Withal, harvests are bounteous and re cur with the infallible regularity of the solar sys tem. I saw fields of sugar cane that had yielded rich crops for fifteen unbroken seasons, and a piece of land which has stood in corn contin uously for half a century. All over the Pacific slope of Chlrlqul Is a top soil, from 6 to 20 feet thick, formed by the vol ages from the mountain sides. It Is rich as any In the world, but not one-hundred-tbousandth part of It has been turned to the account of man. -'Outside of David, the population ts less than four to the square mile. Apart from a score of cattle raisers and cofTee growers, no man produces more than enough to meet hla needs, whilst markets at their very doors are crying aloud for the poten tial products of the province. Panama la paying high prices for Jamaican fruit and Cuban sugar and American tobacco, whilst these and many oth er Imported commodities can be grown within her borders. The pathetic mystery of It la that tena of thou sands are slaving In city sweatshops and facto ries, or painfully wringing a living from a reluc tant soil, when land unlimited lies waiting to richly reward any man who win cast a handful of seed upon It* Ten miles out from David we came to Alanje, \ ft pueblo of only a few hundred th habitants, but a place of consldera flgM tlon In this sparsely settled country. jjaflMßM There are no hotels In the Interior, Hal nor Is there need for them where ev- B\ ery door is open to the wayfarer. The j|l first glance around the plaza of Alanje will decide the discriminating stranger to head for the comfortable looking frame house on the south \\ ® lde - wlth ,ts inviting veranda. Should 1 he not immediately take that dlrec ]■ tlon, the little cura. In his long black J J robe, is likely to come to the door and shout a welcome. The mid-day breakfast at the cural _ was an excellent meal, reinforced by i* good wine and superb coffee. The B. pleasures of the occasion were height re-iSI ened by the entertaining remarks of Hjfl my lively host He was very young |p and very optimistic, quite content with his lot and properly impressed i||| with the Importance of his work. It HHH appeared to me that his life must be a lonely and monotonous one. but he did not share my view of it He was the only man of any education in the village, but two highways and several byways converge at Alanjp, and every few days he might look for a passim visit from some intelligent traveler. His duties occupied three or four hours of the day and the rest of the time he filled in with study, for his ambition pointed to advancement in his calling, whilst his environment had awakened an inherent taste for natural history. We left the table to walk over to the church, with its curious detached tower. I asked for the records. With righteous indignation blazing in his eyes, the little cura laid before me a pile of leath er-covered manuscripts, molded, worm-eaten, and torn. Not a page was intact, hardly two consecu tive lines legible. “Such neglect is crime,” said my host, fer vently. “t need hardly say that the damage was beyond arrest when these came into my hands.” I fully appreciated his feelings. Indeed, I dare say that my own regret was the keener. Alanje is older than David. In fact, its history merges with the times of the Conquistadores and there Is no knowing what wondrous tales may be hidden in those sadly mutilated documents. , “Our church has a legend,” remarked the cura, leading me to a large alcove on the left of the chancel. Drawing aside a curtain, he revealed a life sized painting of the Christ in his final agony. It was evidently the work of an artist, but did not betray extraordinary ability. “I don’t know when this came here, but it was certainly before the present generation." the cura explained, with a slight show of embarrass ment. “The story goes that one evening ft stranger came to the village and. declining shel ter elsewhere, begged to be locked alone in the church over night. His request was granted. When the curious villagers came early in the morning to look for him he had gone, and the pic ture, with the paint fresh and wet, hung where you see it." I looked at the little cura questloningly. “Oh, I don’t know," he said, with a shame faced smile and a shrug of the shuolders. “At any rate, my people believe the story firmly, and it does them no harm.” On the road between Alanje and Divala we crossed several streams. A better watered coun try than this could not well be imagined. Divala is a little settlement of 50 to 60 huts and, perhaps, 300 inhabitants, who are entirely dependent upon the ranch and Insure it a con stant supply of labor. The people cultivate little patches, from which they derive almost all the foodstuffs they need. A few weeks’ work in the year at 60 cents a day will produce enough money for clothing and a moderate indulgence in the luxuries that are to be had at the village trading store. Divala is 15 miles from anywhere, but the most unlikely place to look for an American family In a bungalow that has the appearance of having been transplanted from a New Jersey suburb. Mrs. Wilson has lived In this out-of-the-way cos ner of the earth for five years, and has had the companionship of her Infant during the past eighteen months. There is not a woman of her own race within 40 miles. This Is isolation, in deed, and I suspected that she must -find it irk some, though she would not admit as much. Twelve years ago Leslie Wilson came out from California and settled In the neighborhood of Di vala with half a dozen Americans and Britishers. Thus the settlement of Divala was formed and a large proportion of the ranch turned into Potrero without a penny of outlay. The disturbed condi tion of the country reduced the prices of all prop erty, and Wilson was able to buy the nucleus of his stock at very low figures. The owner of Divala has worked hard and In telligently for ten years on the Improvement af his property. Today be has 5,000 acres of as fine land as any in Chiriqut, well stocked and fur nished with all the necessary buildings. The ranch is easily worth $60,000. Not a bad result of an enterprise started twelve years ago with S2OO capital. DEVIGEIFORFIREMEN Helmet Enables Wearers to Res cue at Fires. Has a Reservoir of Air, and. Test Shows It to Be Effective—Has Been Adopted in Chi cago. Chicago.—Chief go fire officials have adopted a life-saving device to pre vent suffocation. The apparatus re sembles a life-saver's helmet and dress. Lieut. Philip Ryan donned the ap paratus in a test. “It works fine,” he declared, emerg ing from a subcellar filled with smoke. “I could breathe without any trouble. I figure that this new device will prove a great life saver.” Held close to the head by means of springs, the apparatus prevents the entrance of gas or other fumes. The fireman breathes through tubes con nected with the body of the apparatus. “The apparatus is Just donned for the purpose of life saving,” declared Thomas O’Connor, acting chief of the Chicago fire department. . “It is only possible to work in this uniform for about five minutes. T’hat, however, would give us time to enter a building to rescue persons and emerge. Although we have made tests of the new apparatus, we have not as yet had occasion to bring it into actual use.” A New York device, which Chicago firemen believe to be impractical, is supposed to supply air to firemen working in cellars and lofts and is said to have withstood various tests. Alongside the nozzle carried by the New Device for Firemen. firemen using the Halloran contrivance is a brass tube to which is connected a line of one-inch hose extending to the open air in the street. \ This hose furnishes air for a suction which is caused by the powerful force of water sent through the nozzle. The water rushes by an apparatus having direct connection with the air feeding pipe, and forms a syphon, which in turn is supplied to firemen. There are three supply pipes on the first model and these are held by the firemen in their mouths, with a hard rubber holder, which is perforated and looks like the noseguards worn by football players. “While I will not say positively, not knowing anything about the experi ments of the New Yorkers, it appears to me that a contrivance built accord ing to the description would not be practical,’’ said Assistant Chief O’Con nor. “I have never yet heard of a contrivance which would protect fire men from smoke and fumes, especial ly ammonia fumes, for any great length of time. “I consider our new device, which we have Just adopted, is the nearest to perfection. We have tested it and have remained in smoke-lilled base ments for five minutes at a time.” ■ l ■ ’ ■ / MOUNTAINEER IS AN ADAM Strange Man in the North Georgia Mountains Has Gone Naked for 61 Years. Savannah, Ga. —Word comes via the North Georgia mountains of a strange man named John Casteliow, who has grown to be 61 years of age, bale, hearty and happy, without ever wear ing a stitch of clothing and without ever using a single, word but the monosyllable “Gee!” Says a traveler from Harris, describing the marvelous person: “He lives four miles east of Wind sor, in Bertie county, North Carolina, and his health is perfect. He has not missed a meal in fifty years. “When I visited him he was entire ly nude. He is the strongest man I ever saw. His body is normal and well shaped, but his strength is prodi gious. He can break a double plow line as easily as if it were a cotton cord. He is gentle and has never been known to hurt a living soul In tentionally. He cannot speak a word except the one monosyllable ‘Gee,’ which be uses In various intonations to express all his desires and emo tions.” IN A CRITICAL CONDITION. Arm*, Llrrbs and Abdomen Swollen to Abnormal Size. James H. Pitts, 218 East avenue Cedarfown, Oa., says: “My feet swell ed so I could not wear my shoes. My arms and abdomen were badly and large, watery / 11 pouches hung be .b neath my eyes. 1 H grew worse every f day and It seemed I would be better dead k. than In my condition, ite" I used three boxes of Doan’s Kidney Pills wvl and from a man that was slowly dying, I was restored to perfect health. I really feel that Doan’s Kidney Pills saved my life." “When Tour Back Is Lame, Re member the Name —DOAN’S.” 60c. a box at all stores. Foster-Mllburn Co., Buffalo. N. Y. , More English Humor. Tbe first night Walter Kelly, known to vaudeville as the “Virginia Judge,” walked up the Strand he complained to his English companion that tbe far moua street In London was dark at nine o'clock. "Why,” said be, “at this hour Broadway is as bright as day. There Is one sign alone. “The* Chariot Race,’ In which there are 60,- 000 electric lights.” “But I say, old top,” said his English friend, "wouldn’t that be rather conspicu ous?” The Facetious Farmer. “I am an actor out of work. Can you give me employment on your farm?" "I can. But a day on a farm Is no 20-minute sketch.” “I understand that." “All right Yonder Is your room. When you hear a horn toot about 4 a. m. that’s your cue.” For COLDS and GRIP Ricks' Capudutb is the best remedy—re lleves the aching and feverishness—cures the Cold and restores normal conditions It’s liquid—effects immediately. 10c., 25c., and 50s. At drug stores. A Cross-Reference. Mistress —Have you a reference? Bridget—Folne; Ol held the pokei over her till l got it. —Harper’s Bazar. Dr. Pierce’s Pleasant Pellets first put np 40 years ago. They regulate and invig orate stomach, liver and bowels. Sugar coated tiny granules. He that doth a base thing in zeal for hts friends burns the golden thread that ties their hearts together.—Jer my Taylor. ) M4O bushel crops sHafCom on tho Land this at Mercedes, in the lower Gulf Coast last he planted 6 acres to corn. He got 240 bushels, which sold for ft a bushel. The whole cost of rais ing came to $33, leaving a net profit' of P 207. June Ist he planted a SECOND crop and got 240 bushels. This crop cost $39. leaving hinj a net profit of $2Ol. From the a crops he cleared 6408 —not bad for 6 acres; and he can grow a crop of fall potatoes on the same land and market them before Christmas. This is not unusual in the Gulf Coast Country of Texas and Louisiana Three crops a year is making money just 3 times as fast as yon are, and the Gulf Coast farmer saves more of what he makes than the northern farmer, because he has none of the northern farmer's heavy winter expenses. Better Look Into This! The pleasure of a trip to the Gulf Coast Country, via the Frisco Lines, is well worth the little cost of going. On the first and 3rd Tuesdays of each month, round trip fares, via Frisco Lines, are GREATLY REDUCED to any point in the Gulf Coast Country of Texas and Louisiana. The Frisco Lines operate splendid, electric lighted, all steel trains, daily from Chicago, St. Louis. Kansas City, Birmingham and New Orleans. Every day these trains carry through cars and on excursion days also carry tourist sleepers through to the Golf Coast Country. 3 Splendid Books Free! They describe this wonderful country from one end to the other; give examples and personal statements by men who have gone there and made good. Scores of fine pictures. Write for your free copies today, while yon think of it I will also send yoa information about fare from yonr borne town and give you complete schedule, etc., aßfaie. A. HILTON "-wjsysar msßa St. Louis l Coughs, Colds A and Sore Throats Re- lieved and Cured by m Hale’s A V Honey w/ V Of Horehound and * It Soothes and Heals Contains no opium nor anything In- W Jurtoua. All drnggiata. TAKE A DOSI OF piso’s * l*Tor COUCH* a COLDB