The Jackson herald., August 10, 1905, Image 7

About The Jackson herald. (Jackson, Mo.) 1897-1911

Image provided by: State Historical Society of Missouri; Columbia, MO

                
In Woerfe
Interests
Woman Freed of One Burden.
"There no direction In which
votmm have won more freedom than
.In their skirts," said a dressmaker.
"Just look at the lightweight affairs
-thof wear to-day and then think of thu
creations we used to wear twenty
years ago. The woman of to-day In
sists that she needs perfect freedom
in walking and she will not look at a
heavy skirt.
"Rven in winter weather she wears
mohair, which is about as light as
material can be, unless it Is sheer
utiinimsr stuff. And this she has made
tmort and with a flare at the bottom
se it won't interfere with her feet.
Hvea broadcloth and lady's cloth are
falling into disfavor because they are
considered too heavy,
"foot look at the matter of linings,
too. We used to think we must line
every ekirt, and in the bottom we put
a broad strip of heavy haircloth and
then some canvas. Sometimes we
put haircloth way up to the knees
and produced an affair that was a per
fect trial to wear. Now a skirt Is sel
dom lined and it has nothing to tif
ftm Ute bottom, not even a braid.
'The tendency is seen in petticoats
also. Bilk petticoats are worn all
winter, and in the summer lawn Bklrts
-and soersucker or glnghum petticoats
take their places. And a woman now
wears one petticoat where she used
to wear two. How In the world we
-vor stood those heavy flannel petti
coats, I don't know. But we'll never
wear 'era again, that's sure."
Ribbon Work Is Pretty.
Ribbon work on muslin Is very
pofmlar at present, and one sees very
pretty specimens of It In cushions and
satin night dress case covers, table
centers, bed coverlids, and afternoon
teadoths, as well as smaller things,
such as handkerchiefs, glove, veil and
the cases and lavender sachets.
Soft book muslin is used, and one of
the favorite designs is scattered vio
lets, with a spray of cluster at one
or more corners, according to fancy.
The stalks and leaves are done In silk
or crewels. To those who like the
work designs will suggest them
net ves.
The cushion covers may have frills
or not. The other things are usually
edcd with a fall of imitation Valen
cieoooa lace over a frill of thin colored
Hi Ik.
For the Hat.
Long colored chiffon veils are again
draped over the plainer and smaller
hats. To make these go on easily
and effectively put a narrow shir rib
boa Along the top. This will tie it to
the hat crown so that it is Impossible
o wear it Incorrectly, and will save
time besides. One of the prettiest
Ideas in midsummer millinery is the
use of colored wings under the bat
brims. Wings at such reduced prices
are now on the counters that It offers
an Inexpensive way of refurbishing.
For Instance, a Tuscan straw is
"fWlcd" underneath with pulo blue
'Kings and has pink roses on top. Or,
the wings are chosen to mntch the out
sldo trimming, whether It be flowers or
bow.
Walking Suit of Striped Wool.
Tho bolero, which has the yoke and
fronts cot In one piece, is trimmed
with blue silk braid and with blue
taffeta and white linen. The turn
over collar 13 of white linen and the
rovers are of blue taffeta, trimmed
with white pasHcmenterlo and green
-enamel buttons. Below tho revers
the frosts are finished with points of
white linen, also ornamented with the
grnen enamel buttons.
The waistcoat is of white linen, the
chemisette of batiste and the girdle
of the blue taffeta.
The sleeves are finished with cuffs
trimmed to correspond and with lace
ra flics.
The skirt, cut on the bias. Is made
th alternating inserted bias
breadths, cut in points at tho top, and
la finished at the bottom with a wldo
straightaway band, also cut In points
at tlio top.
Creation in Linen.
This to a linen season and the mod
eta shown are most elaborate. One
deserving special mention is light blue,
the skirt laid in small tucks over the
hips and trimmed with inset medal
'lion of liueo. beautifully embroidered
In white just 'at knee depth. TlK
chic eton jacket Is the piece de re
sistance, however, and has a shaped
embroidered collar and revers, whitft
outline the little vest of linen. Em
broldered bands are on each side of a
cluster of tucks which run from
shoulder to bust line. Sleeves of el
bow length are finished with a widt
cuff, tucked and embroidered to match
the jacket. A pale blue batiste and
deep belt of kid to match accompanies
the costume.
New Linen Blouse.
Blouse of linen embroidered with
colored dots. The yoke forms straps
which cross In front and is orna
mented with buttons. The waistcoat
Is of lace, with turn-over collar of
linen to match the dots, edged with
linen of a different color, which also
finishes the edges of the waistcoat.
The chemisette is of lace, with pret
ty cravat of black silk, of which the
girdle is also made. The elbow
sleeves have cuffs of the material,
ornamented with points of linen like
the collar, and are finished with lace
puff.
Skirt for the Autumn.
The first Important simplicity is the
new skirt that will be worn in the
Autumn. It is almost sure that in
cloth, in heavy crash and in every
thing for street It will be close-fitting,
plain and gored. The best model to
choose just now for a cloth skirt is a
two-piece circular with a seam down
the center of back and front. Next
in favor is a five-gored circular. Both
of them must fit perfectly over th(
hips, back and front, but spring out
from the edge of corset and acquire
considerable fullness at footling. This
is the skirt that makes the home
dressmaker shudder.
As one woman put it, "It takes a
mathematician and a civil engineer to
get it right."
What it does take is great trouble
and time. First, It must have a per
fectly fitting pattern, then It must be
pinned at every Inch of the hem ot
facing. A circular footline has the
malice of all inanimate things. It re
mains on a straight path for just about
one Inch when it insists upon dipping
or "hiking." These pitfalls must be
watched. For this reason a hem is
better than a facing.
Her New Pose.
Most girls change their manners
alor-j; with their clothes, and now that
lingerie gowns and baby hats have
come Into vogue an Ingeniousness of
demeanor is affected by many of the
wearers thereof. The tall, athletic
maiden who has taken to muslins this
summer, no longer defies conventions
or glories in being called "a jolly good
sort," but is nestling closely under
her chaperon's sheltering wing. Tan
too, which was acquired by hours
spent under a broiling sun, seems to
have lost its charm, for only the most
delicate of skins appears to advantage
against light, fluffy attire. Some girls,
following tho example of a leader,
wear their veils even while playing
tennis. There may be a luck of genu
ineness in this departure, but it has
the charm of novelty, and the summer
girl feels herself entitled to a different
role from the one she has played dur
ing the winter season.
Here's a New Wrinkle.
In the sheerer fabrics which the
dressmaker favors, the crepe de chine,
cashmeres, henrlettas and even the
chiffon mohairs there Is a new wrinkle
that will appeal tremendously. This
is the use of a linen crinoline in which
one or two featherbone cords are In-
1 cased, a featherbone cord that is no
'. bigger and only a trifle stlffer than the
! usual piping cord. The resiliency of
this cording makes for the most grace
ful "flou" at the foot that can well
be imagined; and even the sheer cot
ton frocks that the younger demoi
selles favor can be made to take on
an air of Parisian smartness and "up-to-dateness"
when this trifling item
is deftly Included In the scheme ol
sleeve and skirt construction.
For Summer Evenings.
Simple, but wonderfully effective
Is a sown of pale pink chiffon cloth
This makes a delightful gown for
summer evening hops at resort hotels.
Fine vertical tucks confine the full
ness over the hips and the bottom ot
rklrt is finished with three deep tucks
at graduated distances. The low-cut
bodice U built on tho surplice lines
and is quite pointed at waist line,
trout and back. Shoulder pieces ol
white Irish lace and bands of same
on the elbow sleeves are the only
trimming.
THEY WILL STUDY IT
NOT DISPOSED TO RUSH THE
RECIPROCITY QUESTION.
New York Board of Trade and Trans
portation In No Hurry to Indorse the
Gaining of More Foreign Trade at
the Cost of a Greatly Increased Vol
ume of Competitive Imports.
The directors of the New York
Board of Trade and Transportation
have acted wisely in declining to rush
to the support of the foreign steamship
companies and the foreign manufac
turers in the matter of urging the
adoption ot a general system ot reci
procity treaties with countries that
have adopted or are threatening, to
adopt tariff rates which discriminate
against the products of the United
States. Unlike the New York Cham
ber of Commerce, which promptly fell
into line behind the free trade flag
of Mr. Oustav Schwab and his foreign
employers and declared In favor of
such a reduction of American tariff
rates as would meet the views, an
swer the demands and avert the
threatened displeasure of foreign com
petitors, the directors of the Board of
Trade and Transportation propose to
go slow and be sure they are right.
At their meeting of June 21 it was
decided to postpone until October the
further consideration of and final ac
tion upon tho Schwab resolutions.
Rightly it was held that a question of
such large dimensions and such vital
consequence to the trade, commerce
and industries of the country should
not be passed upon by a handful of
directors, but should be submitted to
the general membership for a full and
final vote. This gives time In which
to study the question. The time can
be profitably employed.
Reciprocity requires and will repay
study. It is a subject very little un
derstood. Many of those who are its
strongest adherents have no more than
a surface knowledge of what it means
and what it Involves. Few indeed are
they who comprehend the fact that
the reciprocity which foreign produc
ers are clamoring for and hope to
frighten this country Into granting
would compel a reduction of tariff
rates all along the lino of industrial
production. They imagine, chiefly be
cause of tho usual interpretation of
the term itself, that reciprocity is a
fair exchange, a return of favors grant
ed, an equivalent for benefits con
ferred. Commercial reciprocity is no such
thing. It cannot be. It is a sharp
bargain in which one ot the two par
ties thereto expects to get and does
get the best of It.
For example, Germany la Just now
scheming to bulldoze the United States
into a bargain that will be of vast ad
vantage to Germany and of positive
Injury to the United States. With
this purpose distinctly In view, Ger
many threatens to enforce against the
exports of the United States tariff
rates twice and In some instances four
times as high as the tariff rates im
posed upon products of like character
exportbd by other countries. It is pro
posed to do this In order to compel the
United States to receive a larger vol
bme of competitive products from Ger
man factories and mills.
German products now enter the mar
ket of tho United States upon the
Fame rates of duty Imposed upon the
products of every other country. Ger
many is not ill-treated. She receives
absolutely equal privileges, absolute
ly fair play in the American market.
But this is not enough. We are ask
ed to make special terms for Ger
many, to grant special privileges for
her exports, to receive her competi
tive products at a lower tariff rate
than other countries are required to
pay upon similar products.
This, of courfp, would excite resent
ment and inspire retaliation an the
part of countries so discriminated
against. We should incur the enmity
of every one of Germany's competitors
as the price ot Germany's consent to
treat us fairly and decently. Every
one of those countries would promptly
put up its tariff rates and exclude the
products of the United States. We
should have our hands full of tariff
squabbles and commercial wars. Peace
could be purchased only by granting
to the disgruntled countries the same
tariff privileges we grant to Germany
that is, by wholesale and sweeping
tariff reductions and by consenting to
let in the foreign producers and drive
our domestic producers out of busi
ness. That is what the American Free
Trade league meant when it said:
"Reciprocity Is free trade.
"Partial reciprocity is a step toward
free trade."
That is what Mr. Schwab and his
foreign employers fully understand
reciprocity to be. That is why they
are working with shrewdness and craft
upon commercial organizations all over
the United States to bring to bear
upon Congress a strong pressure for
all-round and wide-open reciprocity.
Mr. Schwab and his foreign employ
ers know what they are about. They
are not concerned at all for American
wage earning and wage paying. What
they want is as much tariff reduction
as they can possibly get, as near to
free trade as they can possibly get,
under the fraudulent pretext of reci
procity. They want to batter down the
protection citadel and through the
breach pour in a flood of competitive
(f oods made by foreigners. They want
to break down our tariff and break
down our prosperity.
It is precisely this aspect of the mat
ter that, generally speaking, the advo
cates of commercial reciprocity are un
able to see and comprehend. The free
traders see it clearly and comprehend
It perfectly. Accordingly they are
warm for reciprocity. They know It
would carry with it the death of pro
tection. It would be welt If tho members of
the New York Board ot Trade and
Transportation should carefully exam
ine into the question between now and
next October. The more they exam
ine the more convinced they are cer
tain to become that the reciprocity
scheme exploited by Mr. Gustav
Schwab in the interest of his for
eign employers is not in the interest
ot American Industry, American labor
or American prosperity.
Year of Prosperity,
R. G. Dun & Co. report the number
of commercial Insolvencies for the
month ot April. 1905, at 833, with lia
bilities amounting to $8,056,S66, as
compared with 1,013 defaults, involv
ing $13,136,688, in April, 1904. The
figures for April last are remarkably
gratifying, not only by comparison
with those for April of last year, but
for the further reason that the aggre
gate defaulted indebtedness fell below
tho monthly total for every other
month slnco September, 1903, and
with the exception of that month was
tho' smallest for any month since
July, 1902, nearly three years ago.
These business mortality statistics
afford an absolutely Tollable index of
commercial conditions In tho country
The figures for April are exceptional
ly favorable, but for that mutter tho
reports for tho previous months of
1906 were almost as good, and by com
parison with the records for the corre
sponding months of last year show
that the depression of the late months
of 1903 and the early months of 1904
has entirely disappeared. There is
every reason to expect that the year
1905 will prove to be one of the most
prosperous in tho hitsory of the coun
try. Tacoma ledger.
The honeymoon Is over when tho
bride asserts her right to eat onions.
The Lucky Man.
Tto sweet upon a wintry night
To sit heslde the llle
When outside nil the world la whltn
And by the window howls affright
I ne outturn s Minded Iro
With a lively tale, a glans o' grog,
glowing plpo and a crackling log!
What though ot times a saddening
innugm
Comes for the luckless souls
rhn SHllor on the fnt-N must.
The homuless where the whirlwinds blast.
And Death In his chariot rolls
Wltltout the tale unci the slass o' grog.
The glowing pipe and the crackling log?
yet 'en thought's shadow builds tho fire
Itrivhtpr hv HOfli ,-nmnnre
And the howl o' thu storm through leaf
less trees
Seems hut to deepen the lounger's ease
10 ureams mat nre lazily xair,
With a lively tale and a ulnss o' grog.
A glowing pipe und a rrnckling log.
mcpnen Lnaimvn,
Relieved Tense Situation.
'Speaking ot geese and rabbits,"
said the corporal, "remind me that I
had a Christmas experience on that
Stone river campaign. A few days
before Christmas George Hunt, Happy
Jack and myself went foraging to the
front. Jack wanted a goose for Christ
mas, Oeorge wanted a turkey or a
rabbit, and I was ready to accept a
spring chicken 2 years old. We had
been over the country before and we
thought we knew the ground. We
did, but conditions were so changed
by the presence of tho enemy in front
that we had no freedom of action.
We picked up a little fresh pork and
Jack and I were ready to return to
camp.
"George, however, cut loose from us,
saying that he remembered a place
where rabbits were as numerous as
they were in tho four-mile woods at
homo, and that he was not going to
camp until he had at least two. He
didn't get in until the next morn
ing, when he told an exciting story
about shooting six rabbits, being
chased by the rcbs, and forced to drop
his rabbits to save his bacon. The
boys laughed at him, offered to bet
him a month's pay that there were not
a dozen rabbits between our camp and
Murfreesboro, and the orderly put
him on double duty for being absent
at two roll calls. George confided to
me that he had had a hell of a time
and that rabbits were thick in the
woods beyond Lavergne, but that rebs.
were thicker than flies In Sam John
son's butcher shop at home.
"On the 31sct of December we were
lying in line at Stone river awaiting
an order to charge and listening to
the roar of musketry and the rebel yell
on our right. The sound came nearer
and nearer, but changed constantly to
the rear, and George remarked that
'we 'uns were getting licked.' Sud
denly there came from the woods and
fields on our right and to our rear a
wave of terrified animals. Rabbits,
squirrels, weasles, and all the wild
things of the woods swept over us in
a frenzy of fear. Many of the squir
rels sought refuge among us, not a few
burrowing Into the men's pockets, but
the rabbits, scores of them, ran on
blindly with larger animals, a deer
leading the wild chase.
" It was an uncanny thing to look
at and the men In the ranks were
quiet as death. Not a single hand was
raised to catch a rabbit or squirrel. All
were awed except George, who said
conversationally, 'The man who says
there are no rabbits between Nashville
and Murfreesboro is a liar. Holy
smoke, see them run!" This relieved
the nerve tension that bade fair to
breed a panic and the boys turned hys
terically to badger George about his
escapade of a few days before. He
Insisted that what scared him was the
absence of rebs In our front, and If ho
had a million dollars he would buy a
brigade of rebs and order it to charge
us. Scarcely had he said the words
when a charging line ot gray swept
down upon us. The men sprang up
with a cheer, and I said to George,
'Here's your brigade.' He, immensely
relieved, said jocularly, 'It's a little
sudden, but it's worth the money.
Ten minutes more with the scared rab
bits and I would have been a dead
man. This is something like.' And I
believe every man in the regiment
was glad that the time had come for
us to charge." Chicago Inter Ocean.
"Lest We Forget."
We are prone to forget and lose
faith In these days. Commercialism is
rampant, the getting of a hoard of
dollars the avowed purpose of life
of the great mass. Patriotism and
love of country seem to be back num
bers, lost in the modern whirl of dol
lar getting. In times like these it is
well to pause and remember.
Col. William Colvllle, who died in
Minneapolis recently, was one of those
whom it is well to remember. He and
bis kind are the foundations upon
which the country is really bullded.
Col. Colvllle commanded the First
Minnesota regiment in tho civil wnr.
The general service of the regiment
was distinguished, but at Gettysburg
it and Its commander conducted them
selves In a manner to furnish inspira
tion for American citizens for nil time.
With his regiment depicted through
previous service to a total of but 264
officers and men. Col. Colvllle was or
dered to defend a peach orchard oc
cupying a crucial point In the union
line of defense. After the regiment,
(ess than tbreo full companies, had
taken Its place, Gen. Hancock, see
ing that the charge of Gen. Pickett
was to be directed straight at it, or
dered the First Minnesota to hold its
position, no matter what tho cost.
The reply of Col. Colvllle should be
given a place among the sayings ot
great Americans. "The First Minne
sota will bold Its position even It It
has to load with trouser buttons."
Then came the charge of Pickett's
yelling legions and their repulse;,
and afterwards, when tho relieving
force came to take the place of tho
First Minnesota regiment of Infantry,
they found forty-three men alive and
unwountled, commanded by a colonel
who had been wounded seven times.
But all of the regiment, alive or dead,
was within the little orchard.
The percentage ot loss ot this regi
ment in this one engagement, 84 per
cent killed and wounded, placed it at
the head of all regiments for all the
war In the percentage of men lost.
It Is doubtful if any regimental force
In any fight that was anything but a
massacre ever came nearer to com
plete annihilation than did the First
Minnesota at Gettysburg. Its conduct
on this occasion shows what the
American citizen can do in other lines
than money making.
The civil war Is only a matter of
occasional remembrance now. Its
countless examples of courage and de
votion are forgotten by the great num
ber. Our modern, strenuous life' for
bids thought of anything but the fleet
ing questions of the day. Therefore
It is well to pause and remember.
There Is such a thing as patriotism.
It Is the thing that made Col. Col
vllle and his 264 men hold the peach
orchard, and it exists to-day. We are
much too busy to give it serious con
sideration at present, but if occasion
shall demand it will demonstrate that
it is still with us. Chicago Record
Herald. Death of a Monitor Hero.
Darius Farrington Gallagher, one ot
the heroes of the Monitor in her bat
tle with the Merrlmac, died at Brook
lyn, N. Y., June 15, at the residence
of Leander Buck Van Wart. Mr. Van
Wart was a descendant ot the Van
Wart who, with Paulding and Wil
liams, captured the unfortunate Major
John Andre on his return from his
Interview with the similarly unfortun
ate Benedict Arnold. Van Wart and
Gallagher naturally drifted together,
and they were all and all to each
other. ("
"Dri" Gallagher helped to build the
Monitor, under the supervision of
John Ericsson. In the fight with the
Merrimac Gallagher was in the en
gine room, and when Captain after
ward Commodore John Worden gave
orders to "clinch the devil," Gallagher
was the first man on deck to help to
tio the two together. The Merrlmac,
with her sides covered with railroad
Iron, got afoul of the little boat and
could not get away.
"It was a hot time" as Gallagher
was wont to say, "but we were both
licked. The Merrlmac steered Into
Norfolk harbor and we were outside.
The Merrimac was afraid to come out
agtin and we were afraid to go in.
We were sinking when they blew her
up, and we managed to get ashore."
Gallagher was afterward transferred
to the Daylight, and when the Monitor
went down with all on board, oft Hat
teras, his mother, Mrs. Jane Galla
gher, gave him up for lost. About a
year afterward she received this mes
sage: "Mother, I'm all right." Since
the war Gallagher was employed in
the Brooklyn navy yard. He was
born in the seventh ward of Manhat
tan and was a powerful man, who
stood 6 feet 2 Inches tall in his stock
ings. Monument to Gen. Hayes.
The monument to Gen. Alexander
Hays of Pennsylvania on the Wilder
ness battlefield, where he fell in bat
tle, was unveiled a short time ago.
Gen. Hays was a graduate of West
Point, in the class of 1844. He took
part in the Mexican war as a second
lieutenant in the Fourth United States
infantry, and was brevetted first lieu
tenant on May 9, 1846, for gallant con
duct in the battles ot Palo Alto and
Resnca do la Palma. He resigned from
the army in 1848, but at the breaking
out of the rebellion he enlered the
service as major In the Twelfth Penn
sylvania Infantry. He became colonel
of the Sixty-third Pennsylvania In the
latter part of 1861, and in September,
1862, he was made brigadier gene
of volunteers, and in 1864 brevetted
major general. The monument war
erected by two Pittsburg organizations
Gen. Alexander Hays post. No. 3,
G. A. R., and Davis camp. Sons of Vet
erans. Reminiscent of Gettysburg.
Miner post, G. A. R., of Stamford,
Conn., celebrnted the fortieth anni
versary of Lee's surrender with patri
otic speeches to a large audience.
Commander Solomon Close presided,
and Col. Henry Hubs of Mount Ver
non. N. Y., on behalf of the post, pre
sented Past Commander Samuel Fes
senden with a beautiful gavel of his
toric Interest. The handle of the gav
el Is made of wood taken from the
warship Kearsarge, and the head is
of wood taken from a tree on Barlow's
Knoll, Gettysburg. This tree was the
rallying point of the Seventeenth Con
necticut on the first day's fight. The
tree was struck by lightning and shat
tered some time after. At the time
of tho dedication of tho monument of
the Seventeenth Connecticut M. C.
Kellogg and Comrade Henry Huss ob
tulned permission to remove the
stump, and had It sent to New York
and cut into mementoes and distribut
ed to the surviving comrades. Gen.
Francis C. Barlow was severely wound
ed near this tree and left cm the Sold
tor dead.