Golden Valley chronicle., December 05, 1907, Image 3

About Golden Valley chronicle. (Beach, Billings County, N.D.) 1905-1916

Image provided by: State Historical Society of North Dakota

                
WITH THE NEEDLE
PINE WORK IN«MANY KINDS OF
MATERIALS.
To-day It for Handsome
Designs in Color* That Will Laat
—Strivo to Make Work
Individual.
The (ad (or useless, showy needle
work Is happily over, and one rarely
sees nowadays the multi-colored em
broidered sofa cushions, table covers
and centerpieces, which used to be
considered very "artistic" by the ma
jority of women who did "fancy
work." Fine needlework is probably
more in demand during the past few
years than ever before, but there is
&
III
lio wasted effort now In' embroidering
American beauties and the like on
huge centerpieces, that do not sur
vive three visits to the laundry.
For linens, cross-stitch is much In
favor, although It takes time, of
course, just as all needlework worth
while does but the lasting beauty
VELVET FOR AFTERNOON WEAR.
Dscree of Fashion That Meet* with
General Favor.
Another velvet season for afternoon
wear meets with favor, as It cus
tomarily has done, for what it more
fit and becoming? Velvets this s4ason
are particularly rich, and varied in the
figured output as never before, while
those that, are especially made for
trimming are of remarkable design
and brilliancy of color. Two-piece cos
tumes -are to be the mode, skirts and
coats, the latter In length to depend
on tho wearer's figure, as naturally it
goes without saying that petite women
cannot wear the long Louis XV. coats,
their skirts being too limited in length
to make them becoming. All that Is
settled by the best makers and there
Is no lack of smart short models that
are of correct proportions. Velveteens
of the best English make—ribbed and
plain, if strictly tailor made—are ex
ceedingly admired and cut to advan
tage for those who go afoot oftener
than they drive. Short bands, with
buckle or button ornaments, of rfyibed
silk or satin on the bias, put on here
and there in various simple ways upon
the lower part of a skirt make-up one
of the favorite ways of trimming.—
Vogue.
Care of the tkln.
Raw cucumbers may "be used on the
skin with as good if not better effect
than when made into creams or lo
tions. Cn£ a ripe cucumber into thick
BliceB stud rub on the face, pressing
"veil to get out the juice. Let it dry
on. This makes the skin soft and
white. As nowadays fresh fruit may
be had almost all the year grand, this
remedy may easily be applied at least
once a week.
The annoying blackheads may often
be conquered by steeping the face at
night with hot compresses dipped in
lemof juice or vinegar.
Tailored Hats.
Simple tailored types are most cor
rect for ordbiary wear by girls of
school age, and the best places show
bows of silk or ribbon as the only
garnitures for these, feathers and
quills being reserved for the older
misses, while the younger girls wear
more picturesque and elaborate mod
els. No trimmings stand hard wear
like ribbons, and there are so many
ways" of displaying these this season
that the simplest felt hat may be
made becoming and attractive.
An Odd Pincushion.
A pincushion made with four tiny
little cushions Is Indeed a novel and
pretty design. In the first place four
cushions, possibly about three and
one-half inches square, are made of
silk and lightly stuffed with hair,
sawdust or, what Is preferable, white
wool. After the four cushions are
filled and the edges trimmed with small
ruflleB or ribbon, each cushion is fold
ed to form a triangle and the^con
nected points are fastened with small
rosettes. The four are joined togeth
er by the upper points of .each tri
angle and also finished with a pretty
ribbon rosette. It Is quite a pretty
style, and something lately fash
ioned.
To Cut a Bias Fold.
A very easy way to make a bias
fold of silk tha( Is to simulate a tuck
fit a circular skirt is to press it with a
fairly hot Iron before sewing it on,
pulling it on the up-slde, so that the
lower side stretches much more. The
exercise of a little dexterity can shape
the fold to curve to any degree de
sired, the curve lasting for an indef
Inlta daiaj—Vnsaa.
pays (or the hours spent. It might be
imagined that a superabundance (Jfr
the same style of needle-work might
become monotonous, but such variety
of materials, color, and designs are at
hand that the charge does not hold
true.
As to materials, there are coarse
woven linens and cottons, suitable for
curtains, bed spreads and cushions
also there are the hucks and. Import
ed linens (or towels and table-things.
The shops- now show many shades o(
the embroidery cottons, some of ex
quisite tints and the needle-woman
who first finds inspiration In the cross
stitch book of the shops soon learns
to do her own designing, and thereby
makes her work Individual.
Although the delicate tints of the
cottons are the most fascinating, still
the various deep reds and blues are,
after all, more quaint, particularly
when done on the homespunv linens
and heavy canvases. The blue-red
color schcme gives just the old-fash
ioned touch desired, and we know
the colors will live to see their twen
tieth birthday.
In making the design, carefully rule
a sheet of paper into tiny squares,
just as the cross-stitch book is'ruled.
It Is-well to make the squares of the
same size as the squares in the book,
so that the size of the design may
more easily be estimated, then draw
in the flowers, monogram, .or what
ever design is desired, and fltt In with
the cross-stitch.
The canvas known as railroad is
the kind most used. For general use,
a canvas of average weave and a num
ber 25 cottnn are used.
That the design should be a rather
conventionalized one will be evident
even -to the most inexperienced needle
worker. Almost any formalized flower
form will serve as a motive. Mono
grams -and old English lettering of
texts are easily copied from the little
books of cross-stitch patterns. Such
simple geometric borders as are need
ed are not difficult to contrive.
»*•.•
PLACE FOR PRIZED RECIPE8.
"Cookery Book" Keeps Them Always
Handy for Reference.
From time to time there appear val
uable little recipes that are well worth
cutting out and arranging in a book so
that they may be easily "turned up"
for reference when required. Our
sketch illustrates a good kind of book
tor this purpose that is not difficult to
&&<
GOW
make. It should be made In a fairly
large size, and for the foundation of
the cover a piece of stout cardboard
scored down the center with a pen
knife should be used. The cardboard!
can be covered with art linen, and the
words "cookery book," with any little
fancy design, may be worked on the
front, and pockets should be fitted in
side for holding loose recipes. The.
book should be furnished with a num*
ber of leaves cut to fit, and fastened la
with silk cord tied in a bow at tbe
back as shown. On the leav.es may be
pasted the recipes we require to keep
for reference, and extra pages are
easily added to the book when re
quired. The pockets are useful to
place loose recipes In until we find,
an opportunity to arrange and paste
them on the leaves of the book. A
school exercise book might be covered
with embroidered linen and ornat
mented with cords as shown.
Shirt Waist Warning.
One little hint, repeated frequently
among the latest French models in
shirt waists, may or may not indicate
a certain veering of favor. The sleeve
reaching just below the elbow is used
for the majority of the dressy lin
gerie models, but there are undenia
bly more long sleeves among the re
cent importations than were to be
found among models of the same class
last season.
Woman'* Belt.
If the belt is to be made of silk, cut
it on the straight of the goods. Make
It two and a quarter inches longer
than the size of the waist. This al
lows for seams and the lap. For a
Stout person the belt when finished
should not be more than one-half an
Inch wide, while the slim woman's
belt may be an inch wide when fin
ished. To the outside of the skirt
stitch one edge, taking off a three
eighths of an Inch seam. Turn the
edge which remains over the top of
the skirt and turn another three
eighths of an inch seam. Stitch either
by hand or on the machine.
8poois.
Spools furnish a basis of supplies
for a little doll family to amuse a
small girl, and a small boy can use
them for wagons indefinitely. A young
girl once kept a small convalescent
happily employed with spools by show
ing her how to ravel out cotton,
worsted and silken cord for hair, put
ting it through the spool and drawing
it over one side of the top for front
hair and over the other for braids or
A bright morning star of the liter
ary world In the West is now visit
living in Tbkio. Of a wealthy and Il
lustrious sword-bearing family in
America, and one of its moat celebrat
ed noveVcomposing persons she has
left her country for stay-doing in Jap
an, where she lives and is happy in
the Japrmese style. Dressed in white
silk, she loves to Impart, from her
fancy like the poet's, thoughts o( this
country. To tell of her in a single
page is like attempting to describe a
beautiful woman by drawing her
bones.
So the "Kokumln Slkimbun," the so
berest of the Japanese capital's ver
nacular newspaper^ began its "write
up" of Hallie Ermiuie Rives, the Vir
ginia novelist, who Hist December mar
ried Mr. Post Wheeler, one of1,the sec
retaries of the American ambbssy at
Tokio.
The female novelist is not common
in Japan. There has never been but
one, in fact, worth talking about. This
was Murasako no Shikibu, who. In the
year 1004, A. D„ wrote a novel called
"Genjl Monogatarl," the adventures of
a Japanese Don Juan, in fifty-four
books and something under 5,000
pages, which remains a classic. To
the Japanese, therefore, the advent of
a female novelist from America was
eomethlng interesting.
Woman, moreover, has always been
the submerged sex in the Land of the
Rising Sun, but since the war, in the
fierce Western wave of modernization
that has been sweeping owr the coun
try, she has begun to demand more
social freedom, and a place in the
world's affairs. Wives of fiigh Japan
ese officials have begun differently to
entertain in European- built houses,
wearing European gowfis, which lat
ter the court rule demands shall be
worn instead of the kimono at all
court functions. The girls throughout
em
rj\AivWAAAAA/^uvwvyirirM"i*i*rri*i*r
HALUE ERMINIE RIVES
IN HER TOKIO HOME
The Only Woman Novelist in Diplomatic Life—What
She Think$ of the Japanese and What the
Japanese Think of Her.
MRS. RIVE8-WHEELER
And Her Japanese Teacher.
are reading the newspapers. For
these
reasons the American woman—
and
the very young women at that—
who had won
a place in Western lit­
erature, and had become famous for
ber
novels, was a center of double at
traction. The Toklo papers and the
woman's magazines devoted pages to
Miss Rives' doings rtnd opinions on all
sorta of subjects her picture was
put on vitw at the TJyeno exposition
Just closed, and
a
Tokio publishing
house is now preparing to i&sue a Jap
anese version oU "The Castaway," her
novel of several seasons ago, founded
on the «life of Lord Byron.
Mrs. Rives-Wheeler tells a story
apropos this personal interest.
One flay her rlck-a-sha coo!ie mis
taking ber directions, took her ttf the
wrong spot (she had wanted to visit
the tomb of one ttf the Tycoons) and
she was unable to make him under
stand. A Japanese boy of fifteen or
sixteen years of age, who happened to
be passing, approached, and with a
low, ceremonial bow, aaid gravely in
broken English: "You are lost. Tell
me where, and I shall find out."
She told him her intended objective
point, and he directed her rick-a-sha
man. Then he astonished her by say
ing
"I think yon .must be the American
novel-lady. I ha re seeing a picture to
you of the newsjtaper."
Japanese interest in Miss Rives
was naturally not lessened when it be
came known that eke had. come to
Japan to marry a /nenOer 'of the
American embassy.
When a man in the diplomatic ser
vice marries abroad, be affair has al
ways its national bear! ngs, and in this
particular instance the affair had spe
cial features of real Iplomacy. The
event took place at tbe time when the
San Francisco anti-Jaj: enese agitation
was at its height. T*kio was much
excited, its papers we. re full of war
like fulmlnations again et the United
Better Da'ic.
Eve was calling on a Velgibor.
"No," she remarked, when we lived
In the garden we never bad to borrow
rubber plants for our eo tertuinments*"
Thus she started tho seen better*
days habit.
That's Just W»,at Happened.
N. Field—Yes, we Yost. What can
you expect when tl#a caj cher can't
hold a pitcher?
Baseman—Why, that the pitcher
will get all broke ur of coy rse."
States, and the whole situation was
becoming what diplomatists call "del
icate." Mr. Wheeler made the affair
a soothing salve to smarting Japanese
sensibilities that had a profound ef-
the empire have taken to going to col- foreign affairs. The count, who Is a
lege like their brothers, and the wpm-! member of the house of peers, was
MR. AND MRS. POST WHEELER,
In'Their Garden at Tokio.
feet. Indeed, It may be said to liave
begun the era of better feeling. In
stead of choosing his best man, by
time-honored custom, from the corp
diplomatique, he chose a Japanese,
Count Terashima, a secretary of the
foreign office and confidential secre
tary of Viscount Hayaohl, minister for
college mate, years ago, as it hap
pened, of Mr. Wheeler's at the Univer
sity of Pennsylvania. Six of the,
younger members of the foreign officii
and six chancellors of the imperial!
household Mr. Wheeler invited to act
as ushers nnd masters of ceremonies.
The popularity thus begun Mrs.
Wheeler has added to. The more
stilted foreign embassies found her
nothing if not original. The Baroness
d'Anethan, wife of the Belgian min-
lster to Japan, a sister of Rider Hag
gard, has decided literary tastes, and
the pair often enlven a glittering state
dinner by a literary duel. The prime
favorite of Toklo has always been
Madame Bakhmeteff.wife of the Rus
sian minister, who was Miss Mary
Beale of Maryland, and a sister of
Mrs John McLean of Cincinnati and
-Washington. Madame Bakhmeteff,
who speaks seven languages and
wears three turquoise rings on each
of her ten fingers, is known the world
over for her warm heart and her ce
centrlcitles and rules the foreign so
cidty of Tokio with a heavy rod. On
Miss Hives' first evening in the cap!
tal, the two found themselves dining
at opposite ends cf the long dining
looin of the Hotel Imperial. Madame
Bakhmeteff studied the slim figuia
awhil^ through her lorgnette. "Thank
God," she said at last to the tablefull,
"them's a woman with originality,
oing to like that girl." And she
is their present close friendship
vomlies.
Indeed, originality is the breath in
Hallie Ermlnle Rives' nostrils. At the
fiikl
official dinner she gave it showed
i* a unique way. Things American,
she believes, are apt to be the best
their kind. Her guests on this oc
casion found themselves seated at a
'table which bore no resemblance to
the "«ual state board. It was not
but Colonial-American. A
sj ... ..or "lake" was In the middle,
th a wilderness border of old-fash
led flowers. The menu card was
icompromlslngly American, and was
.-rated In English.
1
i'he dinner, so far as Tokio went,
was a new sensation. The Spanish
mtaister, Seuor Barrera, sent his seq
rettvy next morning to beg for the
recip! of the turnip greens, and it is
still told that his excellency Yank Soo,
the Chinese minister, ate three pieces
of hot nince pie.
Imitation is the sincerest flattery.
Ten (lays afterward the Austrian am
bassador gave a Hungarian luncheon,
and since then "national" dinners
have quite come into vogue.
Drring the months of her life In
Japan there has been no more earnest
student of things Japanese than Hal
lie /Ermlnle Rives. She has begun
now to understand the musical tongue
that has but sixty-eight syllables. In
the afternoons she rldeB through the
country, stopping for tea at some vil
lage shrine, generally accompanied by
her Japanese teacher.
All the time her pencil and note
book are busy. Will the successor to
"Satan Sanderson*' be a Japanese
novel? Tho Japanese think so, and
audibly hope so, for they know she
likes them, and where liking is there
is sympathy and understanding. Cer
tain it is that she writes half of every
day in her garden, opposite the embas
sy, where her workshop is a summer
house, by the side of a lotus pond full
of golden carp, with an old stone lan
tern from some ruined Shinto temple
standing guard beside it.
HALLIE ERMINIE RIVES-WHEELER.
Economy.
Tom—Well, darling, I have seen
your father and he has given his con
sent.
Grace—He approves of love in a cot
tage, then?
Tom—No. but he says that girl who
spends as Jiueh time golfing and mo
toring as you do really has not much
need of a hornet
The snlrlt of brotherhood never
needs to hire billboards to have Its
COO(l deeds made known.
Similar.
"What shall I read you first?"
"The marriages."
"Here's an article about some boys
who were found playing with dyna
mite."
"Well, read it. It possesses the same
elements of interest."
Tabooed.
Freddie—Have you told me all the
fairy stories you know, ma?
Mrs. Cobwigger—Yes, dear all ex
cept the ones your papa tells me:
V/6MAN
ECONOMY IN DRESS
WELL-DEFINED PLAN
REQUISITE.
With This It Is Quite Possible to Bo
Smartly Gowned on All Occa
sions at Comparatively
Small Expense.
The woman who wants to dress
well and roodishly on moderate al
lowance must follow well-defined
plan. She should first take account of
the present articles In her wardrobe,
then decide on what she will need to
enable her tp look well turned out on
all occasions for the coming season.
Her first list will he apt to be far too
long ftnd costly for her resources, but
by cutting off nonessentials and man
aging for combinations that will fit in
with her several gowns or suits, con
siderable variety of effect will be pos
sible with & very limited number of
independent toilets.
This "cutting of the coat to suit
the cloth" need not result in any ap
parent economy on the contrary, it
often produces a distinct gain in style
and individuality, hut the woman who
practices It must bo able to say "no"
to her inclinations when their indul
gence clashes witli her plan, and she
must understand her limitations Her
color range should be quito limited,
and, above all, becoming ami suited
to the demands of her environment.
She cannot afford to indulge in freak
fashions or in extremes of any sort,
but she should take advantage of
every bit of up-to-date modishness in
BEST FORM OF PIN CUSHION.
Mattress Design Certainly Offers the
Most Conveniences.
Of all the many different forms in
which pin cushions are made, the ob
long mattress shape, thoroughly well
stuffed, Is always one of the most suc
cessful, possibly because it can be
•utilized for long hat pins as well as for
pins of a smaller size. These mattress
cushions look very pretty covered
With detachable linen cases, which
can easily be removed for washing
from time to time. A mattress cushion
of this kind is shown in our sketch
covered with very pale blue linen, and
adorned with a wreath of wild roses
and foliage worked in pale shades of
pink and green a pale green cord out
lines the cover. The same idea can be
carried out, of course, in linen of any
shade, or in silk or satin, if preferred,
embroidered either with flowers or
with initials.
NEW GLOVES AND SLEEVES.
Models of the Past Season Still Re
main in Fashion.
For novelty's sake, it is well to have
one or two frocks or separate bodices
made with the long, close, wrinkled
sleeve, but the short bodice sleeve,
the three-quarter sleeve and all the
rest of near-elbow modeli are as mod
ish as they have been for a year past.
Gloves will be a question of Interest
as lone as the discussion over sleeves
continues. The smartest models are,
as usual, of glace or suede in pale
FROCK FOR THE BABY.
C(||
Veiling, Viyella, cashmere, silk,
lawn and many cotton materials are
suitable for making this little frock.
The skirt is gathered to a square yoke
Panels .Seen Again.
On some of the most effective even
ing gown3 for young matrons design
ers are using panels, and there is no
more effective way of showing old
lace than in a panel. But the stum
bling block with those who are the
possessors of old lace Is that it is
never the right size nor the right kind
for the gown on which they want to
put it, and no one likes to be Goth
enough to cut handsome old heir
looms. So the flounce-Is either draped
around the skirt in a skimpy fashion
like a festooned dressing table, or it
is laid aside until it "comes in," which
it rarely does. But the panel admits
of using many an odd length and the
graceful new close sleeves can be
utilized for showing off some good
lace.
New Embroideries.
Embroideries are weighting all the
more luxurious of filmy transparent
fabrics, sometimes embroideries of
bugles, either silver or colored, and at
other times embroideries of sequins
not the glittering silver sequin' of old,
but others in softly gleaming mother
cf-nearl and dull silver and gold.
small accessories
IS FIRST
such as hats, (loves,
boots and n$ck fixings that bar means
will permit, only remembering
that a
few really nice well-selected articles
give much better results than many
things of a more' ordinary sort.
Every one knows one or two people
who manage to appear as smartly
turned out as their more opulent
friends at a fraction of the cost. Very
often, Indeed, their costumes will pos
sess a certain distinctive charm that
the others are unable to purchase at
any price, and paradoxical as it may
sound, these women are not thevones
who spend the most time in contriv
ing their outfits. A well-defined plan
of dressing saves time as well as
money.
Consciously or otherwise, the wom
an who dresses exceptionally well at
little cost has reduced the matter to a
science. She buys only what she con
siders essentials, though these may
often take the form of very smart frip
peries. A'well-chosen veil may be ex
pensive, but enable a last season's hat
to do further service when otherwise
new. headwear would be necessary,
and her smart Bmall belongings' are
what enable her to make her few
gowns lit In well for any of the many
occasions where they must serve.
There Is no haphazard in her well
considered scheme, and she patronizes
bargain counters only when their
wares will fill a definite want in her
wardrobe.
Probably experience has Impressed
her, aa it has failed to do In the case
of less clever women, with the folly
of purchasing anything simply be
cause it la cheap. She knows that
this form of buying is both extrava
gant and annoying if indulged in
without sufficient consideration.
grays and fawns and In cream and
white. It is strange that, despite the
purple craze, comparatively little is
shown in this tint In fashionable arm
wear. Where one: is' faithful to the
one-color scheme to the minutest de
tail, of course, the gloves follow the
color scheme of the gown, and the ef
fect is very pretty.
Among the serviceable gloves for
street and walking use are wash leath
er mousquetalres, with pinked edges.
Far more long than short gloves are
shown this season, and some In coffee
brown and copper are worthy of men
tion on account of their dainty color
ing. These are after the mousquetalre
models, with elastlfcs or wrist straps
in lieu of buttons.
The vogue of the short skirt bas I
great deal to do with the strong de
mand for attractive footwear this sea
son.
Though the shctes and hosiery
shown for the long skirt are perhaps
more elaborate than they have been
for seasons, yet the woman in the
short skirt is more particular about
having her footwear faultless.
A surprising number of smartly
gowned women are. displaying high
French heels and sheer silken hose,
with gowns of ankle length, while oth
ers prefer the Cuban heel and hose
a trifle more substantial.
Low shoes will be worn as long as
the weather permits, and, from one
extreme to the other, the high boot
will take its place.
Suede bobts having 15 buttons are
shown and are one of the sensational
Innovations for winter.
Judging from the display In the cus
tom shoemakers' windows the ex
tremely high shoe will be the fancied
style during the winter season.
under a band of insertion. The yoke
is composed of strips of the material
tucked, each strip being divided by in
sertion. The foot Is trimmed above
the hem with insertion and three tiny
tucks.
Materials required: One and three
fourths yard 40 Inches wide, and about
three yards insertion.
Old Gowns.
If you are going to freshen up an
old gown, or, for that matter, an "old
room," don't use trimmings or mate
rials that look new. The beauty of
real rugs, tapestry, and hangings, and
fine brocade is that they never look
new and they never look old. Al
ways match In color the oldest part
of a gown that needs freshening up
or a room that needs going over, and
you need never fear the sunlight or
the eyes of the critic.
There is still much embroidering of
silk, with the flowers outlined by se
quins to lend just a suspicion of
sparkle to the soft coloring that is so
charming.
Gorgeous Velvet Flowers.
How gorgeous and lifelike are the
velvet flowers for the hat and gown
decoration, says a writer in Vogue.
The poinsettia, for instance, is made
in perfection, and the pansles of vel
vets and silk combined are even love
lier. Large wreaths of ivy leaves in
shaded monotones are a new ornamen
tation some of the leaves are like
thin leather printed in color and re
semble dead leaves and the others are
in velvet.
Schoolgirl Blouses.
There is a fad at tbe moment for
linen blouses embroidered In three or
four colors. Yellow, blue and red is a
favorite combination, done in rather
heavy linen thread, on white or ecru
linen. Green, red and gray is another
favorite combination, while lavender,
yellow and gray also makes a poouiar
appeal.