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In Touch With Fashion What the Smartest Dressmakers Are Now Displaying Hints That May Help the Undecided T |HE ebb and flow of a certain ex treme fashion in one season is interesting. If one goes deep into the philosophy of human caprice It Is easy enough to reason this out; people who dress well aro rather afraid of exploiting an ex treme because they feel that these who dress for the' moment will take this fashion as their own and com monlxe It; the latter are not struck with It, and the former, awaiting their time, go back to it, writes Anne Rit tenhouso in the Philadelphia Record. All this has come about with the pannier. When Mme. Cheruit wore the first one in Paris it started, as you know, all sorts of wild rumors and comments. In a few days all the dressmakers in Paris exhibited pan niers as the newest fashion, and In a few weeks the American shops bad them. The public did not take to them and they fell from favor. They were merely an advertising scheme, after all, first for an Individual, then for a class. Whether or not the public or the dressmakers molded the first pannier into the zouave skirt of today Is hard to tell, but the modification is most acceptable. It Is a cross between Turkish trousers and a flour sack gathered at the hem, and yet it Is most attractive and becoming to wo men who have big hips, as well os those who have Blender ones. It Is probably the skirt of the day as far as exclusiveness goes, and yet It Is not well known enough to prevent Its being offered on the 15th of August as an autumn fashion. It la quite simple to explain. The material is soft and Is slightly gath ered Into a high waistband, falls over a flattened hip line to a half-way point between the knee and ankle, and Is gathered there Into a narrow lower skirt, which Is plain or adorned. The gathering is done In such away that the fulness of the skirt bags over it for about three inches, giving the Turkish trouser effect. Newest Ideas In Bklrts. Last winter a few gowns were worn over here which had this ef fect at the foot line. For months pre ceding January the smart dressma kers had been advocating' this quaint method of arranging a skirt at the hem. The method was to cut the skirt itaelf six Inches longer than the lin ing, then turn It under and gather It to the skirt. This produced that full scalloped effect which is now very smart to have at the knees. It Is tho same method and Is the same Idea. It Is merely moved up to the body for six or seven inches. The effect Is much better, as one retains the slim, tight lower skirt with Its dimness about the ankles. This xou ave effect Is Just as smart on skirts thst are long as well as those that are short. It Is rather effective on a si right two-gored Empire underskirt, which is cut to a pointed train. Using Flowered Silk*. It has much the effect of a tunic |n that It conceals the tightness of the line drawn by the underskirt against the figure In the back, and also hides the not always graceful movement of the knees in a tight skirt. It takes consummate art to make a slim nar row skirt that does not catch and draw around the body ip an ugly man. ner; and so the fashion for fulness from waist to knees comes as a happy afterthought. Among the midsummer fashions is the use of soft-flowered silks Instead of chiffons, or rother they are used as rivals, not as substitutes. The flow ered transparent stufT is always love ly, and in Its present form it Is allur ing, especially for hot afternoons and evenings. The use of silks is newer. It came about through the revival of many of the Louis XVI. fashions. That was a great epoch for silk cov ered with bunches of flowers and la ter with stripes. Today one does not wish to wear the stiff brocades of those days, for the manufacturers have gone far in the art of weaving and can give us marvelous stuffs of silk and metal in terwoven In gossamer weight. We can wear the dashing brilliancy of the Italian fabrics and not put an ounce of weight on our muscles. Design Is Effective. This is the kind of silk we are wearing this summer. It is fashioned Into the new kind of pannier and is Immensely effective. It is not draped as far down on the skirt as the thin chiffons are; it is carried down to the knees or a little above and la lifted slightly In the front, it drops Into a baglike effect there and falls close to the slim silk or satin underskirt be-- neath. It Is better to use satin for the low er skirt than any other fabric, not only because It is the first favorite of the day, but because It presents an artistic contrast to most other fab rics. It has the advantage of bring ing out to Its best all things that are placed against It as a background, or on which It Is placed as ac cessory. This is the reason that satin is so continually used by those who put art Into dressmaking Here Is a gown that could be cop ied In many colors and would meet with instant approval by those who like quaint effects. It cannot be worn by certain types of women, and it Is to be hoped they have the wisdom to know that. The foundation is narrow, has a pointed train. Is made of yellow satin and has an ungatbered flounce of cream French lace stretched over It from kneee to hem. Zouave Upper Skirt. The zouave upper skirt is of yellow silk on which are stamped small bunches of pink roses, green leaves and blue forget-me-nots. It is gath ered to the skirt Just above the top of i the lace and is pulled up by three i cordings in the middle from waist down. It extends above the normal waist line for two Inches, and the ful ness at the back 1b made Into a dou ble box plait, which Is unstitched, and provides the fulness at the lower edge. The bodice Is quite slim In Its fit. Is hlgh-walsted to meet the skirt and Is finished with a flat girdle of the yellow satin caught In front with a pump bow. Above this, outlining a deep narrow V In front and going high in the back, Is a fichu of yellow mousseline de sole, which Is edged with thread lace. It Is caught at the top of the high girdle with a large pink cameo set in a frame of Inter-' lace and gold ribbons. The sleeves are small, plain, end ing at the elbow, where they are fin ished with deep frills of thread lace, longer at the back than in front. At the top of each frill is a narrow fold ed band of the yellow mouasellne fin ished with a tiny flat bow at the back. This gown can be copied In black satin, black brocaded silk and Chan tilly lace. It is especially fascinating when, the fichu of the black lace la edged with a ruffle of fine white thread lace and the large cameo In the middle Is white, not pink. Again Chantilly Lace. When the fashion for Chantilly lace came In last summer It Was thought to be sporadic and that it would quickly pass away, but It did not. Throughout the winter one has seen more or less of It, usually draped on white satin gowns; but this summer it has taken a stronger hold on pub lic fancy. The shawls of It which are bought or inherited are not always easily managed, and they are apt to fall to pieces, as those who possess them have found out. The manufacturers met the fashion with new Chantilly lace made on the exact pattern of. other days, and this comes in service able lengths that are easily utilized and has the advantage of being' strong. The top of the blouse from bust to collar Is of white chiffon cloth, and there Is a high 6tock of white thread lace finished in front with a fan shaped arrangement of the same, which cascades Itself down to the bust. Over this blouse of black and white Is put a slim coat of black Chantilly lace, which has a high Robe spierre collar in the back rolling down into wide points In front, tight sleeves to the wrist and a long peplum that Js tight-fitting over the hips, doea not meet in front and drops away-'to a long back that is arranged in box plaits at the waist line. Arrangement of Belt. The belt is of black satin fastened in front with an oblong cameo set in jet and finished at back with one fold ed streamer which ends at the bot tom of the coat and Is finished with knotted silk frlngo. The long sleeves are fastened with small jet buttons from elbow to wrlßt and are finished with small frills of white silk net edged with a tiny Insertion of black lace. The Illustration shows a smart cos tume of gray linen. The skirt Is trimmed at left side with a row of closely set buttons covered with linen of a darker shade, and with braid loops to match. The little coat has a basque set to the upper part under a narrow patent leather belt; the fronts are trimmed at the left side by buttons, and the right by holes to match; the darker linen is used for the collar and cuffs. Hat of chip to match, trimmed with a bow of blue satin ribbon. Materials required: Four yards linen 40 Inches wide; one-quarter yard dark colored, 2% dozen buttons. PLOWING FOR WINTER WHEAT Continuous Growing of Bmall Grain la Hard on Soli and Glvn Good Opportunity. As a rule, we do much of the plan of following oats or wheat with wheat. Continuous grow ing of small grain Is not only hard on the soli, but It gives an unusual op portunity for the weeds, insect pests and diseases attacking grain crops to do their worst damage. We are quite sure that if winter wheat were never grown for more than two years in suc cession on the same land, that the Hessian fly would not be causing near ly the trouble it is at present Nevertheless, It will often .happen with the very best of farmers that it is advisable to follow small grain with winter wheat. To them we wish again to give this advice: Disk *pd plow as quickly as possible after the small grain harvest. Se if you can not stack the small grain, or In some way re move the bundles, so that you can get on the land with a disk before the middle of July. After you have given the land a good double disking, see if you cannot give a good plotring within a week or two. The disking serves to check the loss of moisture, but does not seem to take the place of plowing under the conditions which prevail when winter wheat is followed by small grain The Ideal seed bed for winter wheat Is that prepared by deep plowing. In July. This was Indicated by a Kansas experiment two years ago. Disking without plowing gave a yield of four bushels to the acre; shallow plowing In ( September gave a yield of fourteen bushels to the acre; deep plowing in September a yield of nearly sixteen bushels to the acre; deep plowing in July a yield of thirty-eight buubels to the acre. Deep plowing in July cost nearly $5 an acre, which was $3 In ex cess of the expense of simply disking, but It paid many times over, for It in creased the net profit by more than S2O to the acre. Remember that the ideal seed bed is one which has been stirred deeply several months previously, but has had time to become firm and compact. There is an Inch of mellow surface Boil on top of the firm sub-surface soil which serves to hold the mois ture. In such a seed bed, the mois ture readily rises by capillarity from the sub-soil, but Is not lost because the dust mulch on the surface holds It In. Theoretically and practically, the best way to secure a seed bed Is to plow deeply In midsummer and follow the plowing every week or ten days with a good disking. RICH MILK FROM FAT COWS Holstein Breeders Take Advantage of This Fact—Point Is of Interest and Value. Cows which are fat at the time of calving will, other conditions being equal, give richer milk thai> though they were thin. They takej tttto fat from their backs and ribs Anq put It into the milk pall. Holstein qreed era have been taking advantage of this fact, as is indicated by mapy of the seven-day Holstein records* As &n average of fourteen Holstein kows. It was found that during seven*! days early in the milking period. the| had a butter fat percentage of 4.36. * But the average for the whole year, was only 3.42. The Missouri experlpent station has conducted some vei*y in teresting work In regard to this point. It has kept record on a number of cows which have been unusually fat at calving time. Invariably the fat.'cows lost rapidly In flesh after calving, and the percentage of fat In the m|lk Is abnormally high. In one Instance the percentage of fat In the milk jjthreo days after calving was 5.68. Thq per centage declined day by day till a week after calving It was 4.34 and two weeks after calving It was 3.85. | The fact that fat cows are likely to give richer milk than though? they weie thin Is not only a point of inter est, but it Is of direct value. Besides throwing some discredit on seven-day tests. It indicates the importance of good feeding during the period just previous to calving. Just after* calv ing it seems to bo necessary slightly to underfeed if the cow Is to t>e in condition to put the greatest percent age of fat into the milk pail in time. Turn the Hogs in the Orchard. One of the best ways of fighting worms and other Insect pests qf the orchard, aside from spraying, |a to keep the Infested fruit that has fallen under the trees cleaned up. It will pay to gather these rots and windfalls by hand or hogs or other stoclc may be turned into eat them. A great va riety of insects will be destroyed in this way and that will mean ’fewer numbers to fight next year. No other method comes as near to controlling the apple maggot as this, as spraying will not reach it. because the eggs are laid under the skin by the parent fly. The young maggot on hatching bores along under the skin and after the apple has fallen and is rotting it emerges and goes into the ground to transform into a fly the next Bpring. This peat works almost entirely on the sweet and early varieties of ap ples. Butter for Customers. Dairying Is the mainstay of my business and I provide butter for a number of private customers, says a writer In an exchange. For the last three years I have been getting 30 cants a pound and during six months cf last winter 35 cents. I prefer Guernseys and have a pure-bred herd. Al! of the butter Is made at home. GROWING CROPS FOR SILAGE Cow Peas Sowed In Orchard as Cover Crop Which Are Left for the Chickens to Harvest. I am a trucker and fruit grower and raise some chickens and grow soy beans and vetches to fit this business. After potatoes we sow rye and vetch. The next year we cut the rye and vetch for hay, sow soy beans, cut these for hay, disk and sow to rye and vetch and plow under the follow ing season for some crop. Bays a writer in the Agriculturist. We sometimes, after early potatoes, sow rye and vetch. This early sow ing gives an Immense growth of or ganic matter to plow under next spring for sweet corn, melons or straw berries. Among the fruit trees we sow cow peas as a cover crop, and these we let the chickens harvest. I have talked with a number of seedsmen, and they all tell me that the sale of these seeds is Increasing. I have been recommending farmers to grow soy beans for sale. On account of the scab germs of the potato get ting Into my soil. I am thinking of dropping out some potatoes and put ting in soy beans. So far, we have used these soy beans for hay. All live stock take to this hay and thrive upon it. The soil on which the beans are grown Is Improved mechani cally, and In its nitrogen content, as shown by the thrifty growth and dark green color of the leaves of plants fol lowing the soys. At the Ohio station they put Into the silo two loads of corn and one load of soy beans and find it an econ omical feed for the production of milk. This changes the rotation to one of four years; corn, soy beans, wheat, clover, thus bringing in a legume ev ery two years, where before (corn, wheat and clover) the legume came in once in three years. CLEANING IN POULTRY YARD Make Bure to Reach All Crevices and Cracks with Thorough Applica tion of Whitewash. Summer time Is the season of house cleaning in the poultry yard. To clean the chicken house, take out roosts, drop boards, nest boxes, feed hoppers, etc., and brush down the walls. With a spray pump or white wash brush, wash the interior thor oughly, and apply a coat of whitewash wjth 2 per cent, of carbolic acid in the mixture. Make sure that you reach all of the cracks, crevices and knotholes. Remove the upper layer from a dirt floor and fill up with coarse sand or gravel. Wash the win dows and muslin curtains and leave open to sun and air. Go over the house for openings that might make drafts, and repair them. Don't put loußy hens in a clean hen .house. If the weather Is warm a thorough washing In tobacco water, or a mild solution of sheep dip will kill the lice and not hurt the chickens. At any rate, treat them thorQUghly with lice powder. Give the nest boxes a thorough scalding with hot soapsuds in which is a handful of salt to the pailful. Strong smelling disinfectants and louse killers should not be used about the nest boxes, as the odor is absorbed by the eggs, making them unfit for use. Brooders and coops which are of no further use this season should be thoroughly cleaned, disinfected and aired before being put away. Water vessels and feed troughs should be scalded daily. Alfalfa for Winter of 1913. For most feeding purposes, three tons of alfalfa hay are fully equal to four tons of any other hay. Ton .for ton, alfalfa costs no more to produce than clover or timothy hay. If you want alfalfa hay In your barn loft for feeding during the winter of 1913, now is the time to plan for it. We are talk ing now to our readers in the corn belt proper. Will you grow It on land which at present Is In small grain? If so, you had best'plan to stack the grain or In some way get the bundles off as soon as possible after harvest. Then go on with the disk and put a dust mulch over the entire field. The moisture saved in this way may mean the entire differ ence between success and failure when the alfalfa is seeded In August. Then when you get time, plow to a moderate depth, and then disk every week or ten days till alfalfa seeding time in August. This Is the way to kill weeds and save moisture. It la the beat way to prepare a seed bed for alfalfa In the corn belt. Land in Grass. Cutting hay off land for a series 6f years and then expecting to find It enriched is likely to lead to disap pointment. Something will have been accomplished in getting rid of insect pests by the change of crop and the texture of the soil will have been Improved by the organic matter from the roots and what nitrogen the clov ers have gathered, but where the clov ers have early run out even this will not be a great advantage. Grass lands need feeding, either with barnyard manure whore hay Is sold off or when pastured, extra feed should be used for the stock If the full benefit of ly ing on grass Is to be secured. . Market for Feathers. To secure a market for hlB feathers the poultryman should ascertain the names of the bedding manufacturers in his nearest large city and write to them for quotations. All feathers should be dry picked and should be kept free from blood. Tall and wing feathers should bs kept separate from the body feathers. WOMAN GOT A LESSON INCIDENT OF TWO GIRLB AND THE BTOLEN PEONIEB. How th. Shobblly Dressed M*n Ad ministered Gentle But Effective Re proof to tho Owner of the Pillaged Brooklyn Garden. Two poorly dressed little girls stood outside the garden of a hand some residence In St. Mark’s avenue, Brooklyn, and gazed longingly at the beautiful white and scarlet peonies that bloomed within. Finally the temptation became Irresistible, and the elder, scaling the low hedge that separated the garden from the street, proceeded to help herself to the flow ers. She had two of the blooms in her hands and was reaching for a third when a smartly dressed woman dashed out of the house and seized her. "Now, you little thief, I’m going to turn you over to the police,” she said. “Oh, please, missus,” begged the child, groveling at her feet; “oh, please don’t get me arrested! I only wanted a few —ana they looked so pretty.” But the woman was adamant. She was slowly dragging the child to ward the sidewalk and repeating her threat about the police when a shab by looking man came along. He gazed at the two for an instant, while an expression of pained * surprise came over his face. Then, raising his dingy derby politely, he inquired what the trouble was. “Nothing,” snapped the woman, "ex cept that I caught this little thief stealing my peonies. And I’m going to teach her a lesson if I have to take her to the station house myself.” A curious look Tame into the shab by man’s eyes. Then he began to fumble In his pockets. A few seconds later he held out to the woman an open palm on which two dimes re posed. “If these’ll pay for what damage she’s done, I wish you’d take them and let her go,” he said. An indignant blush spread over the woman’s face, and then it deepened— Into a blush of shame. She relaxed her grasp on the little girl’s arm and there she paused and turned toward the shabby one, who still held the two dimes in his hand: "I'm sorry,” she said, "and —I thank you.”—New York Evening Mail. Got Even With Old Crusty. Old Crusty, as his name implied, was not a man who was gifted with geniality. His neighbors, in fact, had as little to do with him as possible. However, when a new visitor came to the town and moved into the house next to him, and knowing not of Mr. Crusty’s little falling, there was like ly to be trouble soon. Wanting a book one day, he politely Inquired of Mr. C. if he might borrow one from his library. "You’re welcome to read books in my library,” was the ungracious re ply, "but I make It my rule never to let any leave my house.” Some weeks later Mr. C. was In need of a lawnmower, and he asked the loan of his neighbor’s. "Certainly,” was the reply. "But since I make It a rule never to let It leave my lawn, you will be obliged to use It here!”—Answers, London. Age of Valleys. The erosive power of water ifl hard to estimate with any degree of exact* ness. A method of computing the probable age of valleys will therefore be welcome, even if the figures may seem to some open question. A French scientist has lately reported the results of-hls studies of the eros ive action of an ancient spring in the valley of Lauroux, near Lodeve, France. This spring produces about three and one-half quarts of water a second, and In every cubic meter of water (35,314 cubic feet), the scien tist found 362 grams of calcareous sand. He estimates that the spring erodes 247 pounds of rock dally, or over 45 tons annually. In the course of a century a stream of this size would be able to hollow out a circular cave 62 feat In diameter and 62 feet in length. At the end of 1,000 years It would make a valley 32 feet deep, 64 feet wide and 238 feet long. Origin of Salt in Ocean. The origin of the salt in the sea is usually attributed to the constant washing of salts from the land by rain and rivers, and the gradual de positing of them in the sea, through evaporation. In every 100 parts of sea water there are about two and one-half parts of salt. It has been computed that there are 4,500.000 cubic miles of rock salt in the oceans, 14tt times the bulk of the continent of Europe above high-water mark. The Atlantic is much saltier than the other oceans. Prof. Alexander Woei kow, of St. Petersburg, believes that this is due to the large amount of water vapor that is carried onto the continents bordering this ocean, which are comparatively low where -hey front the sea. Naturally. "Do you play any Instrument, Mr. Jimp?” "Yes, I am a cornetlst.” "And your sister?” "She’s a pianist.” "Does your mother play?” "She’s a zitherist.” "And your father?” "He’s a pessimist.”—Judge. HOW GEMS ARE IMITATED Nature Copied With Remarkable Suc cess by the Men Who Make Coun terfeit Precious Btone«. Tho makers of imitation precious gems copy nature with remarkable success. Zircons are composed of zlrconla. Their luster is deceptive, a means hav ing been discovered of extracting the color, thus leaving them diamonds to all appearances, although their false ness promptly proclaims itself under teßt. Precious stones are frequently dyed with such thoroughness that. It Is aatd, the stone may be broken without dis covery of the process—that Is, by the uninitiated. The village of Obersteln, In Ger many, devotes Itself to the making of imitation jewelry and the dyeing of chalcedony and other stones. The onyx, carnellan, bloodstone, and agate may be enriched in color by Immer sion In the dye-pot. The stones are placed in vessels containing the color ing matter and are then subjected to great beat for periods varying from a few hours to a week or more. In the case of chalcedony, which shows bands of different degrees of intensity, certain of the bands take the color and others do not. The ’stone then re ceives a further stewing in pots con taining other dyes. Fluorspar is capable of great im provement In tint when subjected to a heating process and crucidollto Is given a hue of blood-red by a similar method. The emerald and the cat's-eye are of all stones the most easily imitated. One family at Obersteln 1b said to possess the secret of converting cru cidollte into cat’s-eye. Cat’s-eye may also be made of aragonite, some of the hornblende and even of fibrous gyp sum.—Harper’s Weekly. On a Lasting Strike. A man in rags, who proved to be of good family and once a barrister at the court of Marseilles, was arrested in Paris the other morning for being without visible means of support. “Why don’t you work?" he was asked by the magistrate. "I do not like work,” was the ingenuous reply. The prisoner went on to say that although he was a lawyer in a good position, social obligations and the necessity of wearing good clothes became Irksome to him twenty years ago. He left Mar- Bellies, his family, his friends, and re spectability to tramp the roads of France, where he could breathe, he says, as he cohld not breathe in the trammels of convention. After some years he got tired of tramping and enlisted In the Foreign Legion under a false name. He remained with the corps for ten years, and then came back to France to tramp the roads again, begging as he went. The magis trate offered to find this incurable vagabond food and lodging in a home, but he refused, and was therefore sent to prison. Found Use for Sawdust. In the consideration of a change from steam to electric drive in a St. Paul (Minn.) saw and box mill, the one stumbling block was the matter of the disposition of the sawdust ac cumulated about the machinery. len der the old system this was made use of under the boilers, and thus It saved the expense of fuel and of being car ried away, but the problem was event ually solved by the erection of a stor age house where the sawdust was stored In the shape of bales and dis posed of during the winter; when It demanded a higher price than could be secured in the summer. In win ter the material is In demand for bed ding in stables. The change from steam to electricity proved to be a desirable one from every standpoint after the matter of the disposal of the refuse was solved In this manner. For Invisible Writing. There are several ways In which two persons can correspond with each other unknown to even the persons before whose eyes the very letter is held. For instance, new milk may be used as Ink. When dried this is In visible, but if coal dust or soot be scattered upon the paper the writing becomes legible. Diluted sulphuric acid, lemon juice, solutions of nitrate and chloride of cobalt or of chloride of copper write colorless, but on being heated the characters written with the first two become black or brown, and the latter green. And when the paper becomes cool the writing disap pears, leaving the paper blank again. Two good invisible Inks are made by saltpeter dissolved In water and'equal ♦ P&rts of sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac dissolved In water. —An- swers. Disagree as to Penmanship. Today doctors In France agree 111 condemning the upright characters which the government has decreed must alone bq. taught, and with tender solicitude for the future of the children they point out that straight callgraphy is not tolerated In the business world, and that Its use is a serious handicap. They are urging the government to return to the old system. Perhaps the most practical suggestion of all Is that of a young doctor who would wish every child to do Its lessons on a small typewriter provided by the state. His Reason. He —Dearest, during the first dance I have with you be sure to say some thing to me. She—Why? He—Because you’re so light, if you don’t speak I will not know I have you In my arms.—Princeton Tiger.