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St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, February 02, 1890, Image 13

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059522/1890-02-02/ed-1/seq-13/

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How They "Mould the Form"
in the Fashionable
A Vanderbilt's Costly Corset
and the Duchess of
Fife's Stays.
$200-Corsets Made of Point
Lace and Silver-Plated
Mrs. Langtry's Rounded Waist
—Black Corsets no Long
er Swell:
>ing Eve had a per
fect form, it is said
she found a corset
necessary as soon as
she was obliged to
leave the Garden of
Kiltu.says the New
York Journal. It
is also stated that
Mrs. Noah and her
several daughters
and daughters-in-law took their stays
Into the ark, and so preserved the pat
tern for future generations. But, no
luatter what the origin of the corset, it
lias "come to stay," in more senses than
"Then- is not a physician intthe city
tvno is not an enemy to the corset; there
is not an artist who does not think them
abominations so far as beauty is con
cerned, and there is not a sensible
Voman uho does not believe she would
be more comfortable without them,"
said a prominent physician the other
day. "yet. at one of the lame stores iv
Kew York the proprietor told me the
annual sales had amounted to over
30,000 corsets."
There is not a single fashionable
woman who does not wear a corset.
Some of the siender young debutantes
nffeot the picturesque princess bodice,
with the whalebones inserted in every
There are many young actresses who
do without stays and let the line of
beauty on the hips #o unmarred. No
tably among these are Mrs. Potter,
Annie Russell, Annie Robe and Bea
trice Cameron. But they are all ex
tremely slender and have almost as lit
tle need for a corset as Bernhardt.
"Go without my stays? Never !" ex
claimed one of the leaders of fashion.
•'I wouldn't do anything so untidy. I
think a woman without corsets is most
/■ vr> * s "
unsightly. Unless she is thin to a pain
ful degree, lier gown wrinkles all about
her waist and hips, and she looks very
dumpy :in<t untidy."
With a petulant toss of her head, she
"You cannot look smart and have a
pretty figure without stays. It is im
possible.^ Mrs. Langtry would not be
Charming at all without them, and she
knows it. 1 have heard she sjept in her
corsets, like poor Mario Antoinette, but
I should not like that."
There are four or five establisments
in New York where corsets are made to
order by measure. These are patron-
Jzed by the fashionable set, very natur
ally. At one of these stores on lower
Fifth avenue a bright little American
called the inadauie chatted about stays.
"We make a half-dozen different
Bbapes, you know, because some women
have long waists, some people like long
corsets, and some with flexible and stiff
busts. But no matter how a woman is
Bhaped, she generally wants a corset
that will make her waist long. By that
I mean the length of the body down to
the waist."
A little pile of white satin and pink
riobons, whalebone and Valenciennes
lace lay upon a small table, and a pretty
French girl sat by it studying a small
chart. Her materials, so the madam
said, would eventually become a corset
for one of the Vandeibilt ladies, the
prettiest and youngest one. The satin
was of a very heavy quality, with a back
facing ot strong linen, and it is manu
factured especially in France for corsets.
Ordinary satin would be useless, as it
lias no staying qualities.
The average woman of fashion wears
about six pairs of corsets a year, and
seldom pays less than $5 for each pair.
Many pay as high as $25, and even $200
lias been paid for a corset made in this
city. The purchaser was from San
Francisco. The corset .was of pink
satin, covered with real point-lace and
fastened with silver-plated steels.
• ; To make a corset fit perfectly," ex
claimed the little madam, "requires art
In measurement. We have a French
man here to do the cutting and fitting.
The Orst measurement is the length of
the waist from the neck, then the
distance over the hips irom the waist
line; next we measure the bust across
the breast, then at the waist, two inches
above the wr»ist, one below, three below,
and where the edge of the corset will
be. The corset is cut and boned and is
then tried on and fitted.
"Most of our customers wear their
corsets over a silk undervest. All of
their petticoats are placed under the
corset, so us not to mar the lines of their
hips, and a perfect-litting corset-cover
over the corset. Some very wealthy
•women dispense altogether with the
corset-cover and have all of their gowns
lined in white silk. They always want
extremely handsome materials for their
Btays, though, when they do that."
The little stays fashioned for one of
the Vandeibilt matrons were to have a
anilling of real Valenciennes lace about
th» top and an insertion of the lace be
neath the qui!lic£, through which
would run the narrow cherry ribbons,
tying in rosettes in front.
Over a hundred small whalebones
were to De fitted in the corsets, and
while the outside was of the white
satin, the inside was to be of cherry
£^> $$
silk. Between the two linings was to
be sprinkled violet sachet powder, to
keep the corset always delicately per
Mrs. Bradley-Martin is one of the
women of fashion who has all her wear
ing apparel direct from Paris. Her
corsets are made by a famous Paris
manufacturer, who also make 3 for
Langtry and for most of the famous
London beauties. His aim is to make
the waist round and not oval in shape,
and so make" it appear smaller than
it is.
Mrs. Lanstry's waist over her corset
measures twenty-five inches, yet it is so
rounded that it looks smaller.
The cheapest corset made by this
man costs $25. He made one fo"r the
young Duchess of Fife. It was of
white satin, covered with real point de
<T--n «♦' *V>4j
Venise lace, put
on so that the
deep points would
meet at the waist.
A little flounce of
the lace outlined
the upper and
lower part.
The corset made
by him for a well
' known Washing
ton beauty was of
[yellow satin, era
•.broidered in pur
[Many New York
women wear sim
■ ilar embroidered
corsets. Vbr a de
butante this win-
Jter to wear at a
New Year's ball
Y < * was made a pair
in rose pink, with little pale pink and
white dogwood roses embroidered about
the top.
Black corsets are no longer fashion
able except for people in mourning. It
is a fad among the ultra-fashionable set
to wear mourning underwear with their
black gowns, and entire suits of it made
up in black surrah are worn with the
black corset.
The average ball bodice is of so light
texture that most dressmakers insist on
the corsets being of the same tint. A
pair of blue satin stays beneath a pink
gown makes the i»ink lose its rosy tint,
and if a little rent is made in the bodice
the eifect is much worse.
"I have eighteen pairs of stays this
winter, and they are all perfect," a so
ciety girl said at an afternoon tea the
other day, when she was exchanging
confidences with tlu> hostess. "You see,
I thought 1 might as well have enough
to match the colors of all my gowns.
My lavender one is sweet. It is covered
with gauze anri embroidered in Parma
violets, and if it just had little shoulder
straps it would make a ball bodice pret
tier than any 1 possess. Then I have
one in sea-green, with a fringe of grasses
about the top instead of lace, and my
crimson satin is embroidered in black
A Bride Whose Whole Outfit Is of
Somber Hne.
LACK is at pres
ent the popular
color for under
wear, nnd figures
largely in all
bridal outfits, one
of which recently
contained not a
sintrle article of
white or bright
lingerie. Black
laces, guipure and
Chantilly decor
ate them; fine
toeUncs and
dainty needle
work are dis
played whenever
possible, and the
laces are fulled
on tiny ribbons of
the same somber
It has been quite a severe struggle to
introduce the color for garments com
ing in contact with the flesh, but it lias
been accomplished, and the most con
ventional and refined women wear
black chemises and gowns, corsets, etc.,
as they have long worn black hose, with
a very dazzling Krenchy and sensational
effect when their sable trillings are
drawn up about snowy, plump, dimpled
and delicious specimens of womanhood.
A still later fashion is that of matching
the color of the gown, whether for
street or house wear, in every garment
worn beneath it, from the stockings to
the petticoats.
The Milliner Who Made It Gives
Its History.
"Do you wish," said the milliner, "to
hear the history of the hat I made for
Mrs. James Brown Potter? It is a typi
cal case." And thereupon she narrated
the following: "When the rehearsals
of "Camille" were begun, Mrs. Potter
came to me to order a hat. Now. Ca
mille is a nervous woman, fashionable
as to clothes, and above all ccci ntne.
Kccentiicity, then, must be the domi
nant trait of the hat. But it must also
partake of the individual taste— the
caprice of the actress.
"Now, Mrs. Potter knows very well
that one of her principal charms is her
wavy, fluffy, reddish hair, which seems
always on (he point of escaping from
its pins and of rolling down her shoul
ders. She therefore wished to have her
hair show both in front and behind.
Having expressed this desire, she seated
herself before the large mirror and I
placed upon her bright auburn locks the
frame of the longed-for hat. It was at
this moment only au unpromis
ing compound of crinoline and
wire, but patiently and carefully,
with many changes, and the most mi
nute alterations, often stepping back to
study the effect, 1 did my best to adapt
the eccentric head-dress to the actress'
striking face. In two sittings the frame
was outlined. It was then given to the
straw sewer, who at once copied the
model. Then we began to look for
trimmings that would make the hat
harmonize with the gown. There was
really an embarrassment of choice, but
we succeeded at last."
.A Tailor Who Is GJad to See Them
Growing in Favor.
LADIES' tailor tells
the St. Louis Globe-
Democrat the most sen
sible innovation that I
hare noted for a long
time is the growing fa
vor of theater waists for
ladies. Elaborate cos
tumes are crushed by
passing in and out of
the aisles and iv the
narrow chairs of the
orchestra and balcony.
This is an unnecessary
sacrifice, as only the
bodice is visible when
the theater cloak is
thrown back. A skirt
of plain black faille
Francaise or silk warp
cashmere, with a variety of dressy
waists, answers every purpose. I have
noticed several society ladies who ap
preciated the convenience of a fash
ion that is quite common in New
York city. Cheapness of toilet is by no
means implied. Think for a momentof
the Figaro jacket with belt and buckle.
It is made of steel or cold cord, and con
sists of short rounded' fronts and a trim
ming for the middle of the back united
by a stand-up collar. The jacket is
edged with finely cut bead drops and
hooks into silk loops on a faille Fran
caise bodice, the hooks being sewen on
invisibly. The belt is \)i iuches wide,
and fastens with a hanasome buckle to
match the trimmiug.
The Startling: Formula Set Forth
by a London Correspondent.
jap* m
ERE is the start
1i n s formula
which a London
correspondent of
the Courier dcs
Etats-Unis has
taKen from a lit
tle book just
published in
that city to teach
ladies the arts
of beauty:
"Every morn
ing a prolonged
■old bath; eveiy
iiight before re
tiring the same
exercise; a com
plete Turkish
oath once a
week - applica
tion to the face
for two or three hours each day of a slice
of raw veal ;to keep off wrinkles applica
tion during an equal term of a mask
composed of the white of eggs, honey
and bailey paste, to preseve the firm
ness of the skin: a vigorous rubbing of
the eyelids two or three times
a day with a sponge dipped
in rose water mixed with
whisky, to preserve the brilliancy of
the eyes: a covering of cold cream for
Hie hands before retiring, and keeping
on glows during sleep; a rest of from
ten to eleven hours, because early rising
reddens the eyes and mars the lines ot
the face: carelul avoidance of all cares
and every subject of an exciting nature;
never to get angry; constant calm, for
tears are "the destruction of cnanns, the
floods iv which beauty is drowned;
smiles eternal, even in the teeth of dis
agreeable things; exercise on the veloc
Mrs. Langtry, so this correspondent
says, takes a tremendous cold bath
every morning, after which she gets
herself shampooed to preserve the fresh
ness of her skin; and Mrs. Frank Les
lie draws the same effect out other
bath, into which she puts an extract
from the branches of certain pine trees.
The mask of raw veal and the baths are
the essential.
What a bore!
She Did Up Her hair on the Car.
Buffalo Express.
i TIE passengers on a
Belt line train last
'veiling had some
1 fun. A good-look
ing young woman,
apparently going
out for the evening
with a gentleman,
possibly had left
home hurriedly.
She removed her
hat. placed it on the Moor, and, with a
newspaper handy, wont to work to do
up her hair. The woman rolled wads of
paper, and in ten minutes she had her
head dotted with curl-papers, and ap
parently unaware of the quiet fun
everybody in the car was having. The
couple left the train at Black Rock sta
tion, and as they left the car the mirth
of the passengers found vent, and
everybody roared. The young lady
blushed, then smiled and looked as if
she was satisfied, having sot her hair in
Girls Who Kiftertain.
"If 1 were a girl, desirous,— as every
young woman is — of being a belle," said
a well known society man to a Star re
porter the other day, "I would, beyond
all else, entertain."
'•And why so?"
"Because entertaining is more surely
than anything else productive of attPii
tion from men. Even the ugliest girl
will not be a wall flower if plenty of
parties are given at her house. You
see. the men— particularly the young
ones— are not going out in society for
philanthropic or unselfish motives;" it is
merely a question with most of them
how much in the way of fun and eood
things to eat and drink they can get.
In Honor of Kate Field.
A summer petticoat, dedicated to Kate
Field, has been introduced to early buy
ers who are making ud their Florida
trousseaux. The stuff used is a light
weight silk, in a variety of colors, made
on a yoke with a gathered back, and all
along the hem is a Greek border worked
in bullion threads and steel beads to
hold it down.
*„.>;■" [Written for the Globe.]
How much more peace and happiness
Would be the lot of all.
Anil strength be given us weaker ones
Who are so apt 10 foil.
If every one in tnis bright ■world,
(Including those professing
To be the servers of the Lord,)
Would only cease digressing.
From one commandment not laid down ■
In Holy Writ, 'tis true—
"Do unto others as you would
That they would do to you."
Were this a law compulsory
In every clime and nation.
And could it only be enforced,
Including every station,
Th^troinan wants, or man can fill,
The hypocrite and saint,
All those plumb full of cus.seduess
■ Ana those without a taint. .:
The high and low. the rich and poor.
The (ientile and the Jew—
"Do unto others ns you would , -
That they would do to you."'
A Heaven on earth 'twould surely ba
As long as lite would last. .
And when we finally left this world ! ..
• And over Jordan passed, ■ -
Appeared before the Judge of all
- To hear decision rendered,
What a feelinß of security ■ .' _
As to Him our work surrendered.
When asked, "What did you do oil earth f
If our answer true could be,
"I did- unto my neighbor as _.
I would he'd 4 * to me."
: —Jake Adei«h.
A Glimpse Into the Richest
Boudoirs To Be Found In
New York.
Feminine Celebrities As They
Appear When Receiving 1
Their Guests.
Sweet Wine, Turkish Coffee,
and Fragrant Cigarettes
for Breakfast,
Mrs. Potter's Bed of Violets
and Her Delicate Per
fumed Gowns.
Society's very latest fad !
The boudoir transformed into a recep
tion room :
When Mrs. Frances Hodgson Bur
nett lived at the Westminster, she was
always "at home" the day she took her
steam bath. This regular reception of
society, sycophants and people
with letters was obligatory rath
er than conciliatory. Her phy
sician would not allow her to
so out of doors before the expiration of
twelve hours, and, as she was too much
exhausted to do any work, she
went from the cooling-room directly
to her Louis de-some-number-conch,
douched herself with cologne,
feathered her lips and eye
brows with attar of roses, pulled her
fluffy hair about her temples a la Byron,
donned a baby blue sarah dress girdled
under the arms with a belt of pearl, and
got into bed.
All the ladies who called during the
day were ushered into the chamber and
seated about the luxuriously appointed
couch after pressing the lips and finger
tips of "Dearest."
' \\ "HlV. 'v^^V/' 1^
■* - \j * j^f ■ ■ I i \iZts \^
Mrs. Hick-Lord in her boudoir is as
errand as a Russian empress. The old
Moorish couch, with its splendid carv
ing and star-chamber canopy, is placed
in a darkened alcove, where a lantern of
mock jewels- shines in refulgent beauty.
Draping the bed is a crimson brocade,
against which a harpy would be hand
some and a hag youthful. Over this
silken coverlet is a lace spread, hand
wrought, the flowers of which are visi
bly stained by the tears and prespiring
lingers of some pale nuns long since
gathered to their fathers. The top
sheet, which is made of the sheerest
linen, is finished with a flounce of lace a
vast deal more precious than the bridal
t ousseau 1 dream of wearing. This
frill of matchless weaving turns back
over the top of the bedclothes and
serves as a background for the vinai
grette, hand-mirror, toilet articles and
beautiful hands of the reclining occu
pant. Mrs. Lord inclines to dimity
robes, the sleeves and yoke of which
are hligreed with Valenciennes lace.
Over this is worn a silk night coat of
some delicate tint, finished about the
neck and wrists with boa fringe. The
robe has wide sleeves, a train as long as
a princess gown, and, like the garments
of the Chinese nobility, is lined
with a contrasting silk as rich
as the texture of the coat. Don't
think for an instant that all this
material goes under the bedclothes to be
mussed and wrinkled, for such is not
the case. The maid who attends to her
comforts has a trick of donning the roue
diagonally, as it were. laying the skirt
in flat plaits, bringing the train out
from between the sheets aud arranging
it along the sideboard in some such
graceful way as a scarf is thrown across
the balcony in a Venetian landscape.
Her boudoir, like her tea-parlor, has a
mahogany wainscoting, finished with a
three-inch ledge, along which slender
vases, violet cups, and miniature rose
bowls are set, and which, when filled
with blossoms, form a sort of floral
zone for the splendid apart
ment. These flowers vary with
the drapery and toilet of the ease
lovinir dowager. Sometimes only crim
son carnations are used, and then the
air is scented with their spicy frag
rance: again, there is a rose border, in
pink, yellow or damask, and when the
lounging colors are yellow a hundred
dozen marigolds, those vivid things of
molten gold, encircle the shadowy room
like a fillet in the dusky tresses of a
Greek girl.
Only the chosen few are admitted to
these morning pillows, as they are
called, and during the visit "those
haughty old colored servants who
have been with Mrs. Lord since they
were young and giddy, and can become
stone deaf to the inquiry of an im
pertinent stranger, pass In anci out
with cordials of sweet wine, thimble
like cups of Turkish coffee and Individ
ual ices that only a directeur gastrono
mique could devise. In no house about
Washington square is it possible to find
a comparison lor the night stand that
supplements this lady's chamber suit.
Similar to the dressing table in size, it is
boxetl like a washstand, inlaid with
lapis lazuli and pearl, and the interior
lined with satin— fancy that! The can
dle drawer is reserved for the matches,
snuffers and candle supDly. and on the
table is a low branching chan
delabra with small satin shades
that can be adjusted like minia
ture parasolettes to my lady's eyes; a
water service; a tray with decanter and
glasses; a night watch; a fan; a bottle
of smelling salts and an incense jar of
Persian bronze. The wine tray, be it
said, is a mere ornament in repousse
work, for in all society there is not a
more abstemious liver "than Mrs. Hicks-
• -^^^5^-- *^
Isabolle Urquhart's morniiit, guesti
are received in a mirror-paneled cham
ber, upholstered in pomegranate pink
silk, witli a daio of nut-brown plush
and a narrow frieze, having for the
unit of design a promegranate
Bower. The drapery of the
side walls is smooth, but the ceil
ing is a plaited wheel, invisibly hung
above the slender burnished bedstead
is an octagonal canopy from which
lace curtains fall in graceful folds.
The French bolster, which is a shade
lighter than the hangings, is fin
ished at both ends with brown
plush, and when the languid
brunette has it in use a veil of em
broidered net covers it and the rose
pink spread. Miss Urquhart's slumber
robes are airy, fluffy, creamy things,
with sleeves a yard wide and three
yards long, slashed to the shoulder.
Sue wears her hair, which is blue
black in color and as fragrant as any
wig in poetry or romance, tossed about
the bolster, and, to complete the Orient
al effect, chains her neck and
wrists together with antique jew
els. A rack of books, a tete-a
tete service, a basket of photo
graphs, a folio of prints aud a toilet
table are all within reach, and she reads
or listens while others do so, manicures
her nails, brews tea, pours coffee and
puffs a sweet cigarette.
It was in this pretty bed that the
Casino favorite learned her parts in
"Yeoman of the Guard," "Xadjy"
and the "Brigands," and the day I
called she was sitting in bed, Turk
fashion, in her cream-colored point
d esprit night frock playing the score
over on the piano. There are five doors
in the silken-draped apartment, and on
each a framed mirror is screwed that
reaches from casement to threshold.
Marie Jausen had her bunk made
over in amber tints immediately . after
the success of the"Oolah'' was declared.
Ordinarily she is never at home in bed
except Sunday, but since the toss
up she had with a bay trot
ter nothing but full-dress dream
gowns have been worn. Turon
lupe while abed writes letters, mends
gloves, trims hats, roads the papers and
pastes new clippings in her scrap book.
She has a little boot now and then to
which vagrant buttons are restored, and
sometimes a spirit lamp is fixedon a hard
spot in the mattress and coffee made
and served to some fair caller. Her
night robes literally flutter with rib
bons, and instead of pinning a bouquet in
her corsage she makes up a light, little
bunch of mignonette, her favorite
liower, and plants it between her pil
Mrs. James Brown Potter seems to
sleep in a bed of violets. It is not
known how the trick is managed, but
the faint, sweet scent is in her sepia
brown hair and in the gathers of her
coral-pink robe de nuit; it is in her eye
brows, about her pretty little hands and
her pretty arms; it is in the almond-col
ored plush robe that falls over tne foot
board and in tfe hems of the sheets and
pillowslips; it clings to her handker
chief and the stiff, white feathers of her
fan. Every time she moves and at
every disturbance of the snowy lace
coverlet a breath of perfume greets the
senses that is as sweet and seductive as
springtide. When Mrs. Potter was at
the Brcvoort house she took her coffee,
rolls and croquettes of hominy at 11
o'clock, and after her bath she went
back to bed again to read the papers,
open her mail and receive the friends
who remained with her after her pro
fessional debut. In the afternoon,
when the rehearsal was over, she al
ways went to bed, not to sleep, but to
rest, and to the few visitors she received
she served tea a la Kusse.
Two Hints in Sewing Them on
That Baffle the Laundries.
HEN I get a
bright idea 1 al
ways want to pass
it along," said a
lady, as s.'ie sat
watching a young
girl se vying; "do
your buttons ever
come off, Lena?"
"Ever? They're
always doing It. They are ironed off,
washed off, and pulled off until I de
spair. I seem to shed buttons at every
step." "Make use of these two hints
when you are sewing them on, then,
and see if they make any difference.
When you begin, before you lay the
button on the cloth put the thread
through so that the. knot will be on the
right side. That leaves it under the
button and prevents it from being
ironed or worn away, and thus begin
ning the loosening process.
"Then, before you begin sewing.lay a
large pin across the button so that all
your threads will go over the pin. After
you have finished filling the holes with
thread draw out the pin ahd wind your
thread round and round beneath the
button. That makes a compact stem to
sustain the possible pulling and wear of
the buttonhole. It is no exaggeration
to say that my buttons never come off,
and I'm sure yours won't if you use my
method of sewing."
Prune Purple and' the Dahlia Col
ors Are to Take the Lead.
LL dress goods and
millinery trimmings
thus far imported show
that prune purple and
', the dahlia colors are the
(prevailing shades next
season. The beautiful
coqueMcot reds are giv
ing place to yellow
scarlet shades, the ex
lact color of a garden
tomato, aud hence
called tomato red. The
vegetable kingdom is
again honored in the
new dahlia coior, a rich
blackish purple called
aubergine or egg plant
purple: bishop's purple
is a somewhat lighter
shade of the same red
dish tone of color, and
the several shades of
these colors end in the
palest lavender tint.
New montures and
flower clusters for
spring show all this range ■ of shade, be
ginning with the dark egg-plant purple,
and using the more delicate tints only to
throw out the richer colors, so that the
effect of the eiusters is dark and sub
dued. Blue purples or prune shades are
represented by a dark color called Hor
tense, and several more delicate violet
colors. Blue greens are again intro
duced under the name of Danube colors,
and there are a moderate number of
yellowish hue or meadow greens. Pure
clear blues and steely shades of blue,
old rose and clear rose pinks are other
colors of the season. Ashen gray shades
are in special demand, and. differ little
from the sand gray, of last year.
It Is Not in the Dance, Bat in the
7 j Associations, Sometimes.
Ladies* Home Journal.
%'X:£-~ '- ■->'■.'■- *
T'S all very well
to say there is no
harm in dancins.
There isn't. But
there is harm in
having about you,
a sweet, pure srirl,
kept as much as
possible from the
wickedness of the
world, the arm of
i a man who may
be a profligate, and not possess the first
instinct of a gentleman. He may, a3
you say. dance divinely, but even for a
partner in a round dance more than
that is necessary. My little girl, danc
ing indiscriminately" will teach you
to forget how to blush, and with that
kuowledge departs one of your greatest
charms. Dance, sing and be merry, but
remember, not only does the world
judge us by the com pan v we keep, but
just as you and 1 are made better and
nobler by being with those who are
true and good, so we are insensibly
made meaner and poorer in heart and
brain when we consort with those of
less degree in morals.
Lilies on Linen.
Our linen all comes from Europe, but
the importers here are in the habit of
sending their own designs to the manu
facturers abroad. Pond lilies and lilies
of the valley are among the newest pat
terns. For large cloths there is usually
a large center design: the rest may be
in large figures or small to suit the in
dividual taste of the buyer. There is no
particular fashion followed in this re
spect. There are sometime two borders
to both cloths and napkins — one is what
is called the table border, and the other
the hanging border.
When YoarSweetliea rt Pomes.
Ladies' Home Journal.
HEN your sweet
heart comes to
see you don't be
foolish enough to
confine your
| sweetness to him
' alone. Have him
in where all the
rest of the house
/ hold are. Let the
' talk andthe chat
ter and the music
and the playing
of games be in
the home circle.
Then the few
minutes that he
gets with you by
yourself will seem
all the more de-
lightful, and he will think you the most
loving little creature iv the \v odd. Men
are much more obseivant than they are
credited with being, and the man worth
having as a husband is the
one who will appreciate your
love for those of your own
people, and will see that as you make a
small part in one home you are becom
ing adapted for the central figure in an
other. Never say that you don't ex
pect a man to marry your whole family.
It's vulgar. You do. That is, if you
are a good daughter and a loving sister.
You want him to be one with you in
sympathy and in affection, and as you
take his name, so you assume responsi
bilities as tar as his people are con
Making Them Over Is an Easy
Task as Fashions Are Now.
• • ■ .
HE draped ef
fect given to
bodies fronts
renders the re
making of half
worn basques
a comparative
ly easy task, if
the gown is of
plain material
combine it with
a brocade,
stripes or silk,
and vice versa.
Having one
front laid flatly
over the lining
with two darts,
or the fullness
at the waist
caught in tiny
plaits, and the
other front is full from the shoulder,
without darts, and lapped over to the
opposite side at the edge of the short
bodice, ending in a cluster of plaits
under a long or rosette bow of ribbons,
fitted belt, which fastens with safety
hooks, or a large buckle. The contrast-
Ing material appears again as cuffs and
collar, or these may be of velvet, and a
panel of the plain front fabric appeal's
on the side of the skirt like it was a
continuation ef tho bodice portion.
Flat, gathered and plaited panels are
all worn.
Buttons are rarely used, except bone
designs on the plainest of every-day
gowns. 1 find that safety hooks answer
the purpose of a secure fastening,
tnough select dressmakers use the ordi
nary hooks, and buttonhole large eyes
with twist to prevent their slipping.
The jacket fronts cover a multitude of
sing in the way of worn places around
the arm size 3. These are round in a
zouave styie separating over a full, flat,
round or pointed vest, or the jacket is
cut a little longer and wider on the
front edge and made to meet over the
bust under a knot of ribbon, buckle,
pretty clasp, etc.; holding the edges in
a few plaits like it had been gathered
up in the bands. The full coat sleeves
gathered at the top rexuire one layer of
sheet waddiiiir between the lining and
outer material across the top and about
three inches deep to keep the gathers
siauding out.
A Carious Side Light on the Glit
ter of New York Life.
HERE is a woman
up in West Fifty-
Fourth street, ac
cosrting to the New
York World, who
does a thriving bus
iness in the sale and
exchange of what
she calls ladies' mis-
dresses, street suits and wraps, tea
gowns, furs, hats, bonnets, shoes and
silk underwear are brought to her by |
ladies' maius and sold for a song. The I
owner may be going in mourning, going
abroad, or in such straitened circum
stances as to regard a few dollars as a
Brand new gowns and bonnets are
daily received from ladies who are pen
niless. They have unlimited credit,
but to get spot cash orders are sent to
the modiste, and as soon as filled their
garments are disposed of to this female
Fagan for a tenth of their cost. Legiti
mate sales of second-hand, slightly
worn clothing are made by economical
women, who receive an extra dollar or
two for the waistband or bonnet lining
bearing the name ot some good house.
Nine-tenths of the sellers are carriage
people, and of these 60 per cent demand
spot cash.
The Devices Resorted to to Get a
Glimpse of Their Interiors.
HE handsomest in
teriors in this coun
try," said a man the
other day, wh o
ought to know all
about it, "are to be
found in the New
port residence of
xWr. Post, Don't ask
me to describe it. I
couldn't. Selling.as
1 do, the finest goods
which are made in
this country, I make
si T
it a business wherever 1 am traveling
to go through the best furnished houses
1 can anywhere hear of. You can un
derstand it's not always easy to do this,
for people who have a rich interior are
always on the watch to guard against
some one copying them. Many a time
I have gone through a private house in
overalls, with a kit of tools over my
shoulder. Sometimes it's the painter I
have to 'see,' and once I got access un
der pretense of searching a leakage in
the gaspipe. In this way I have seen
every handsome interior that is worth
seeiug in this country, and while the re
sults justify the means, I must confess
that it is not always pleasant to be
closely pursued on a tour of inspection
by a flunky having one eye on the silver
and one ou me; still I have arrived at
the conclusion that Mr. Post's house
has the richest interior of any in
Take r pair of sparkling eyes.
Hidden, ever and anon.
In a merciful eclipse —
Do not heed their mild surprise —
Having passed ibe Hubicon.
Take a pair of rosy lips ;
TaKe a ficnre trimly planned—
Such as admiration whets,
(Be particular in this) ;
Take a tender littie hand,
Fringed with dainty fingerettes,
Press it — in parenthesis;
Take all these, you lucky man —
Take end keep them, if yon can 1
Take a pretty little cot—
Quite a miniature affair-
Hung about with trellised vina
Furnish it upon the spot
With the treasures rich and rare
I've endeavored to define.
Lire to love ana love to live—
You will ripen at your ease.
Growing on the sunny side —
Fate has nothing more to give.
You're a dainty man to please
If you are not satisfied.
Take my counsel, happy mau ;
Act upon it, if you can !
— W. S. Gilbert, iv "The Gondoliers."
i if IB Risf,
■9 ... -.__ , , j ■■■ ■Mr Bp , id b, . g< I■ . A . '. ■ ■
— ■ ■■ . tar . - dH|
13 East Third Street, St. Paul, Minn.
New lines of French Satines, in beautiful designs and
colorings. These are the best qualities and fast colors.
■ ONE LOT OF FINE SATINES, elegant styles, at
15c Per Yard.
We have just opened a large line of
Checked and Plain Nainsooks,
Jones' Soft-Finish Cambric, -
India Linens,
Victoria Lawns,
Plain and Dotted Swiss,
Dimities and Piques,
Beautiful Plaid and Striped Lace Effects.
A Big line just put on sale from 3c per yard up.
New arrivals of Serges, Mohairs, Henriettas,
Plaids, Stripes and Novelties, Silks and Velvets.
iiunrifr i Ann jp odiict
V mr ill re HK IS
Leaders of Low Prices.
J^?^ HAY FEVER §^t|]
Ely's Cream Balm is not a liquid, snuff powder. Applied into the nostrils ltd
■a ft quickly absorbed. It cleanses the head, allays inflammation, heals _ _
Kiln Me sores. Sold by druggists or sent by mail on receipt of price. I II **.•
Iga 30 Million Pounds
Menier chocolate
if II I ■ It is the purest and best.
Paris Exposition, 1889 \- 1 SSId d mK3B:
ju^. Mm _J?[l^!!!*L HOUSE, UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK. 18
Gentlemen's Low-Cut Jersey Cloth Ventilated Over
shoes for $1.00. The best made.
. : Felt Shoes and Slippers for cold and tender feet at
greatly reduced prices.
New Styles and Shapes in Gents' Patent Leather Dress
Large assortment in Ladies' Fancy Slippers.
Imported Canadian Moccasins. vj.r r
SCHLIEK & CO., 85 M 89 Sl Ea L™ rt stre *
Piano and Banquet Lamps!
A Large Assortment of Plain and Fancy
■—SHADES !«■
. oJ^f^^ 392<4lcKsONST.C0R.6ta
**S^^ M P/SXJLr
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