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The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, September 05, 1897, Image 20

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059523/1897-09-05/ed-1/seq-20/

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NH7W/ CTVI PC There is a Threatened JRe
i^ 7^ S™* of the Stock
FOR MEN. Grandfathers Wore.
Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, Sept. 2.— Unless all
signs fail, the idea of going back a
half a century for styles will be no
ticeable in the attire for men this fall
and winter. It is promised that one
of the features will be the old-fas>iion
ed stock of black satin. Naturally this
means a tall collar, for the btoik 1.-as
to have plenty of room to display it
self and appear to be what it is the
Intention it should, the main femure
of the wearer's costume.
An odd fact in connection with the
stock is that in beginning the manu
facture of it, In anticipation of a de
mand therefor, the makers have found
no little difficulty in securing a suit
able model. Stocks are to be sewn in
.pictures upon various persons, but tliat
i« altogether a different matter from
having one to look at. It is ur^er
stood that the puzzle bas beeia !iO,ved,
and that people have tvjen found witn
relics of ancient days, had pre
served the stocks their great-great
grandfathers wore. It is purely, or
ought to be, a cold weather feature,
for even the extremist of fashion must
admit that the stock and the outing
shirt would not go well together.
Over in England the stock has al
ready found wearers, among those who
have adopted it being the originator
of this latest fad, James Beggarstaff,
the well known artist; Aubrey B-eards
ley. Max Beerbohm and Ranger Gull,
the novelist. The stock they wtar is
of black satin as of old. and the ones
used by the gentlemen were found,
strangely enough, in the Rue de Rivoli,
in Paris. No London shop no"<>ssed
them. Now, the London tailors a:e
1- •
making them, and the London chappies
are planning to wear them.
Toulouse Lautrec, the French poster
artist, has also adopted the stock. All
these give ample excuse '.o the Amer
ican who loves to ape '.he manners
of the foreign cult to go back to the
custom of his great-great-gnndfather,
provided his great-great-grandfather
wore stocks. Naturally, the v.tock will
lead to the ruffled shirt bosom here in
America, just as it has with the Eng
lish faddists. The accompanying il
lustration shows Mr. Jauios Beggar
staff himself, with stock and runied
bosom, just such attire as olil Sir
Roger de Coverley was fond of.
Our English cousins have gone them
selves one better than the /ictorian
era in this new fashion, and as the
American man of fashion is very apt
to copy the English styles, we may
now look for a revival of not only the
stock and ruffled shirt bosom, but
other styles of male adornment which
reigned in the days when George
Washington was a schoolmaster in
Virginia and Nelly Custis th* widow
of his dear friend.
Among other innovations this sea
son it is declared will be a decree ban
ishing watch chains, including the fob,
even the black ribbon. This is all due
to the desire for exceeding plainness,
and because society is running in eco
nomical channels this year. Incident-
ally, the gold sleeve links will be pop
ular, although, if possible, the owners
thereof should have th?ir initials upcn
them. A gentlemen will oniy wear one
stud in his shirt front when in even
ing dress, and fashion has so far re
lented in her warfare against diamonds
as to permit that stud to ba a dia-
mond, provided it la small. Never wear
a diamond pin in the dress tie to keep
it in position, for th»t is vulgar.
That old-time friend known as the
coaching club stripe jjp to be in evi
dence in men's neckfies, which may
either be red, blue, yellow, green or
black. Other ties wtHild have bright
effects like the chintz sscfa used to give
to a room, and all the neckties will be
more striking than in other seasons.
Cardinal silk will be a favorite mate
rial for neckwear, and silk flowing
ends will also be popular. The com
binations will run in two to four colors,
two being green, cardinal, blue and
gold, and then olive, canary, crimson
and lilac. Undoubtedly there are some
persons who will like these combina
The shirt of the fall and winter is to
have a white body and a colored
bosom. There is no doubt but what
people have become very fond of the
colored shirt. For reasons of economy
and appearance, it is very pleasant to
wear, because a slight spot does not
make the wearer feel as if he had for
feited all claim to consideration from
people who believe that cleanliness is
next to godliness. This newest shirt
will not have any tab. And all the
cuffs are to be detached. Of course,
these detached cuffs will be made for
link buttons. Tl\e man who wears the
old style button nowadays shows his
The bosom of the new shirt is to be
an inch shorter than the old one, a
change so sensible that it will at once
become popular. The majority of vesta
nowadays button high, and why a man
should be forced to wear a shield of
starched linen of such unusual breadth
and length is something no fellow can
find out. The Madras shift also prom
ises to be a favorite. It is to be open
both front and back, and the front
opening will be extended three inches
below the bosom. Dress shirts of pique
are still worn as they have been for
the last ten years, and the standing col
lar also retains the same ancient style.
Speaking of collars, if one wishes to
be thoroughly up-to-date, he must have
this feature of his apparel from two
and a half to two and three-quarters
inches high in front. The style of col
lar known as the high band turned
down will hold its own.
WjjgM | H JT ™BL We are very much in business, with the
g|] I I M m J^^^ finest stock in either city in Fine Fur and Cioih
T"^ I ™ B ™™ Bi __ Wf Prices and Good Quality.
In costumes for women for golf, the
same material will be used as hereto
fore. The makers of these costumes
say that the skirt should be a little
shorter, if anything, than heretofore,
and the waist plain. Skirts with cir
cular sides and several gores are con
sidered perferable, and in length, the
best dressers wear skirts just to the
ankles. Women have become so great
ly in evidence in golf that they pay
much more attention to their golf
dresses than they used to. It has got
to such a pass that their customary
apparel must be made according to
certain patterns, even down to the
The shoes should be of heavy leather
and if weather will permit of low cut.
Like the latest shoe for men, the edges
of the soles must show distinctly out
side the uppers of the shoes. If they
are properly made they do not make
the foot of the wearer look large. For
the colder weather or fall, the shirt
waist worn with the golf costume
should be either velveteen or flannel.
Red is the favorite color for these, as
it shows beautifully against the land
scape. The golf coat is likely to super
sede the golf cape to a great extent
this year. This coat is tight fitting in
the back and the front buttons in such
a way as to give a double-breasted
effect. However, the coat is generally
worn thrown open with the lapels laid
back. It is very smart, indeed. The
Alpine hat or the Tam-o-Shanter are
likely to remain the favorite styles of
Silver gray is to be one of the favor
ite colors of fall and winter gowns.
Possibly this may be because it is con
sidered that the most, stylish gowns
of the season must be constructed of
plain goods. However, if one does not
like gray, they can combine it with
pink, cerise, green or scarlet. A very
elegant fall costume is made of cloth.
The jacket is separate, of either the
reefer or military style, while the
waist is round and fitted with basque
pieces, or in the form of a blouse.
One gown that is not particularly
expensive is made of gray canvas, over
a silky cotton lining. The yoke is of
•white guipure lace over yellow silk,
with collar to match. The waist has
a front effect like that of a blouse,
and the lace yoke forms epaulettes |
over the small sleeves.
To De Worn by Miss Up-to-Date—
Xew Side Combs.
The new fancy combs have teeth
that are coarser than those of last
season. The ornamentation of these
combs Is quite simple. The plainer
ones, when ornamented with narrow
bands of silver or gold, have only
simple designs cut into these bands.
Except on those pieces to be worn
above th? knot there is no filigree
work. Jewels, when used, are sunk in
the band, not raised above as for the j
last few seasons. Amethysts, it is ;
said, will be the popular stones, and ]
only a few diamonds are shown to be ;
worn in very black hair. Amethysts i
come in settings of silver and gold, in
polished and French gray finish and
in polished and rose finished silver gilt. )
The new side combs come in sets of :) j
and 4. The most stylish are hinged i
together. In sets of four one comb
goes above the knot, one below the
knot and one on either side. In sets
of three, as a rule, the middle comb I
i? to be used above the knot, and is j
the least bit higher and more ornate i
than the other two. Where the four j
are hinged together the tendency j
seems to be to have them all alike, i
differing only in length and curve. I
One favorite design for these combs
is the zigzag with a narrow beaded
border of gold. All four combs are
alike and hinged together. The effect,
when worn with hair coiled just above
the midd'e of the head is very pretty j
and shell hairpins will not be worn; i
indeed, the tendency seems to be to {
hide those necessary articles, hairpins.
Ornaments and combs that will be
much worn by widows with blond hair
or with gray hair have tops of pol
ished jet. cut so as to give the great
est possible sparkle.
Does It Reacli Its Zenith Under the
Age of Forty?
This question is discussed in an
English journal by a writer who main
tains that "the fullness of beauty does
not reach its zenith under the age of
thirty-five or forty." This claim is
disputed by another writer, who cites
the opinion of women themselves as
shown by the undoubted fact that
''any woman who craved admiration
on the score of her personal appear
ance would be vastly more pleased
were her age to be guessed as being
thirty rather than forty."
This is a very wide and delicate
question. Much depends upon the
race and not a little upon the woman.
In some Southern lands women are
either wrinkled and shriveled or fat
and shapeless grandmothers before
they reach the age mentioned. In
England and In this country it often
happens that the "fullness of beauty"
in women "does not reach its zenith
under the age of thirty-five or forty."
The question of taste, too, has much
to do with a decision, and it is a canon
of criticism that in matters of taste
there can be no unvarying standard of
judgment. There is a beauty of the
bud and a beauty of the blossom in all
its glory. In the eye of cold fact a
woman probably reaches the fullness
of her beauty at her physical maturity
and ripeness, a varying time in dif
ferent climes and with different
women. And— blessed fact!— she re
mains beautiful as long as she looks
so in the eyes of those who love her.
The age of limit is very elastic, de
pending upon health, temperament,
heredity, conditions of life and a dozfcn
other things that help to preserve or
to impair that beauty, which is its
own excuse for being— and for being
seen !
I'rinoess of Wales llakei Kneipp
Care Fashionable.
The" news that the Princess of Wales
has thrown away her medicine bottles ,
and taken to the grass cure of the late !
Father Kneipp has caused a sensation
in the ranks of the four hundred. The \
lovely princess has, so to speak, gone
to grass as a remedy for all her ills.
Rumor sayeth not whether her I
doughty spouse, Prince Albert of
Wales, has followed in her footsteps,
but the four hundred and its would
be members will not wait to ascer
tain whether Turn-Turn has decided
to believe in Kneipp before they rush !
pell mell into the damp grass cure.
As the princess has always been a j
model for the nobility in England and
our would-be nobility in this grout i
land of the free, we may confidently
expect to see dozens of specialists in
Kneipp treatment springing up like
mushrooms all around us.
One has heard much Kneipp talk
within the past few days among the
weary four hundred, and those an
xious to be in the swim have been
delving into all kinds of Kneipp liter
ature, and all because of the announce
ment that her royal highness has tak
en to playing Little Barefoot on dewy
lawns in the early morning hours.
Our correspondent quaintly remarks: j
"If the four hundred should fall to j
this fad. as seems likely from the
present outlook, we shall be treated to
some rare and interesting spectacles."
One thins? is certain, and that is that
"it is an ill wind which blows no one |
any good." The doctors, who have :
been advocating electricity for all and
every ill, and advising the use of X
rays*for locating fractures and bullets, i
may now open sanitariums with
stretches of beautiful green lawns and
pronounce the Kneipp treatment the
only one for every ailment under the
Until the year 1878 hairpins were brought
to this country from England or France, j
There are now several large factories in the ;
United States that turn out an article equal, |
if not superior, to the best finished foreign I
made pin- The trade is such a large one
that it takes 50.000 pa.-kage=. each contain
ing from twelve to twenty pins, to supply
the wholesale demand daily in New York. I
The machinery used is of a delicate and intri- !
cate character, as the small prices at which j
the pins are at present sold necessitate the j
most rapid and cheapest process. The wire
is made expressly for the purpose, and is put
up in large coi's, which are placed on reels.
Tho end of the wire is put into a clamp. |
whi^h carries it to a machine v-hile Straight- !
ening it. There it is run through a machine I
which cuts, bends and. by a delicate and in- j
stantaneous process, sharpens the pins. Thess
machines will turn out from 2<".0 to 350 hair- |
pins every minute. Thc> most difficult part ,
of the work is the enameling, which is done >
by dipping the pin in a preparation and
baking it in an oven. Here is where the most
constant attention is renuirpd. as the nin
must be perfectly smooth and the enamM j
have a faultless polish. The slightest parti
cle* of dust cause imperfections and rough
Marriage Ctintonm in Alaska.
Wooing and wedding in Alaska among the
natives »re interesting and peculiar rites.
When a young man is of a suitable age to
marry, his mother, his aunt or his sister
looks up a wife for him. He seldom marries
a woman younger than himself; she i 3 much
older, and sometimes is double his age, and
even more. She is selected from a family
whose position equals his or is even higher.
When a suitable woman is found the young
man is asked how many blankets and ant
mal skins he is willing to pay for her.
"When that important question Is settled a
I feast Is arranged at the home of the bride,
j and the friends of both families lire invited.
| When the company is assembled the woman's
people extol the greatness of their family.
The young man's marriage gifts are spread
out where they will make a fine show, and
then his family sound their praises. Tho
ceremony lasts from one to two days, and
finally the young bridegroom takes his wifo
to his own abode.
Women I'nintod the Fence.
Several weeks .ngo the men in the Calvary
Baptist congregation at Trenton, N. J.,
painted the little chapel after obtaining from
the ladies the promise that they would paint
the fence. Xone of the men believed that
I the promise would bo kept. The ladies did
j not wait until darkness came, but went to
work at 3 o'clock Friday afternoon. When
the 6 o'clock whistle blew they rested until
the next day when they completed their
task. The fence is about 275 feet long. The
only assistance the men gave was the mix
ing of the paint, and some of the ladies be
lieve the results would have been even more
satisfactory had they done the mixing them
lint* for Children.
The new fall hats for children are jaunty,
bright colored affairs of the Tarn O'Shanter
kind, with a variety of little caps, such as
are seen in yachting outfits. The new Tarn
O'Shanters are perfectly square in shape
and have a single long, straight feather
on the side. Hats of light silk material,
tied under the chin with grenadine ribbons
and trimmed with rows of daisies of other
flowers of white, are modish for children's
summer wear. With the aid of a little
stiffening from the milliners, the Ingenious
mother can make these hats herself.
The Scotch Jacket.
The "Kcossais" cr Scotch jacket is made
up of heavy plaided material and is well
adapted for autumn travel, driving, moun
taineering or country excursions. They are
double-breasted, fit well to the back and
sides and hang loose in front, so as not
to crush any possible daintiness beneath.
Married women wear the plain solid-color;
the young girls indulge in pkiided affects,
while tho coquette has her jacket chiefly
of the plain frieze, with cuffs, collar and
deeply-printed hood of the gay-plaided sur
A Fail for Millionaire*.
Millionaire women now have a fad for
wearing diamonds on the finger nails. The
new fashion decrees that the women with
long bank accounts shall have a tiny gold
cap made for each of their fingers. From
the cap is suspended on the outside a big
diamond drop, which sparkles most satis
facotrily; there is one large sparkle for each
finger nail. Of course, the sparkles are not
so conspicuous as they would be if a large
number of rings were not worn at the same
<>ir!M in New Guinea.
Girls in New Guinea have little chance to
elope. Every night they are put in a little
house in the top of a tall tree Thon th-
ladder is removed. Parents' slumber is not
disturbed by thoughts of an elopement.
The ends of chiffon vpils must not be con
fined if one would be strictly en regie. They
must be allowed to float in every passing
Earrings are undoubtedly to be revived,
and some women have gone so far as to set
their approval on the very unbecoming hoop
Dark blue, or navy blue, combined with
red, are old favorites, but this year white
or some other pale color Is also added to re
lieve the soberness.
Navy blue canvas, with facings of red,
waist of white, and red tit, or navy blue, with
white facings, white collar and Us, are strik
ing combinations.
Some novelties in lingerie? show trimmings
of lace with tiny lines of color running
through It.
The linen collar and black satin stock are
greatly liked with all styles of blouse.
Comfortable round-'.>ed tan sh'iea, with
stockings to maifh. are really h^;er "form"
tran the gaudy devices -jOTifldently bought and
sold as golf stockings.
Low turbans and flat-crowned to<iL'o3 _are
more becoming to the majority of wi^ v f
than sailor and alpine hats.
One of the latest ways of arranging lace
is to tie it loosely and gracefully in true
lover' 3 knots and place the bowa at different
vantage points of the costume.
Among the new autumn ribbons are fine
and beautiful qualities in taffetas, i;rosgrain.s,
velvets, high-Class fancies, satin plaids, Pom
padour patterns, tri-colored satin stripes on
plain grounds, and every width from the nar
rowest to ribbons from one-half to five
eighths of a yard.
Morning germans and progressive penuciile
are a very seemly combination of amusement!
at the seashore resorts.

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