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The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, October 17, 1897, Image 21

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059523/1897-10-17/ed-1/seq-21/

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Special Correspondence of the Globe.
CLEVELAND, 0., Oct. 14.— At last a
minister comes before the public who
has sufficient courage to tell exactly
what he thinks of the bicycle skirt,
without regard to what the opinion of
others may be. He is the Rev. H. S.
Place, pastor of the Gordon Avenue M.
E. church, of this city, and he openly
stated in a sermon not long ago that
he saw no reason why, if men were per
mitted to wear knickerbockers, women
should not at least be allowed to wear
their skirts several inches above the
This preacher, who seems to be pos
sessed of much common sense, stated
that he really saw no immodesty what
ever in this exposure of the ankle of
a woman, and that only an evil mind
would see in such an exposure a cause
for the cry of indecency. Why should
women, he says, be compelled to be
uncomfortable when riding a wheel
any more than men. He is by no
means an advocate of the new woman,
nor does he declare that a woman
should in any degree take the place
that nature has apparently allotted to
man, but he feels that women should
be treated with every possible consid
eration, and that false modesty is in
its way as bad as immodesty itself.
Mr. Place by no means set a rigid
limit for the bicycle skirt. He trusts
to the sterling common sense and tho
inherent good taste of womanhood to
Fettle that question for itself. He be
lieves that a girl or a woman has no
desire to make an exhibition of herself,
and that in wearing a short skirt, she
merely acts in accordance with the de
mands of the situation. To ride a bi
cycle is in no way immoral, says this
preacher, and this being the case, the
way to ride it is that in which the
most comfort can be obtained, com
bined with a reasonable degree of pro
priety. Mr. Place's new departure,
while it startled the fold of divinity,
has .met with no condemnation except
from extremists and those who are so
rabid that they would almost follow
*he Turkish custom of keeping even s,
woman's face hid from all except the
members of her own family.
The action of this minister has caus-
JIII .^k- _^^^%^^w^^^ -^* a^^^^^%^^^^^
"Catch the dust; become entangled
and soiled so as to be really unpresent
HH Fasl)iou Kfleels to Braid. Hfl
This and Dress Trininiiug- Are Unquestionably the Decorations
of the Time.
Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, Oct. 14.— The coming of
the Russian blouse has made braids
and dress trimmings dual queens of
fashion's realm. They have everything
their way, and they aie sufficiently
charming to make it all quite excusa
ble. It has indeed been a very long
time since thei-e have been such styl
ish braid effects.
While there is no restriction so far
as color is concerned, by general con
sent black seems to be the most fre
quently worn. It is quiet, and always
possesses a certain elegance that no
other color that ever graced a woman
can equal. That is probably why it
is the most fashionable and leads all
else, although brown and navy blue
as well as green are used. Hercules
biaid is always stylish in widths of
from one to three inches, or narrower.
This braid is handsome and attractive
whether placed in straight or curved
rows upon whatever it is intended to
Loop-edge braid is among the novel
ties for this season, and comes in all
colors as well as black. Sometimes one
edge and sometimes both have the
loops, according to the use to which it
is put. For the bottom of skirts, only
the upper edge has the loop, while for
other purposes the double edge is pre
ferred. This braid is used both in
straight rows and scrolls and lends
itself admirably to either. Steel and
plaid effects are also seen. But per
haps soutache braid is the trimming of
the season par excellence. It is used
for the Russian blouses particularly,
and for skirts where more than one
width of braid is wanted. It comes in
all the plain colors, as well as steel ami
silver grey, and brown and gold com
Tubular braids come in an endless
variety of widths and colorings, and
are put on either plain or formed into
patterns like the flat sort. They lend
Ed the question of bicycle skirts to be
widely discussed. It has also brought
to light the fact that the majority of
girls who appear in bicycle costume
are as careful about exposing their
limbs to an immodest degree as the
most ardent moralists could desire. The
concensus of opinion seems to be that
a woman looks much more dainty,
graceful and in all things feminine in
a skirt that comes to a few inches
above her ankle than in those baggy
affairs that are termed bloomers or
even the divided skirt.
Mr. Place is perfectly capable of
speaking for himself, and here is his
statement exactly as he wrote it, which
is prepared expressly to show that at
least there is one minister who com
bines with his task of leading his
flock in the way they should go, that
of also instilling into their minds at
least the rudiments of that invaluable
commodity known as common sense:
"I have never said that I do not consichr
'short' bieyc'.e skirts immodest. Abbreviated
skirts, however, are not immodest. In fact,
it goes without saying among observing and
cultured people that the skirt so popular
among this class, reaching to about three in
ches above the ankle, is not only more con
venient for bicycle riding, but makes a much
better appearance as well.
"It is a mock modesty that asserts the
shocking appearance of a lady simply because
her <vnk.es appear unencumbered by flaunting
skirts in a breezy day to catch the dust and
become entangled and soiled so as to be really
unpresentable. Her escort wears kneo
breeches, and nothing is thought of it. We
say he does it for convenience sake. The lady
possesses the right, all her own, to so order
hsr attire and so wear it as to appear to best
advantage in her own eyes, and she is derelict
if she does not do so, regardless of a persnick
ety narrow gauge and unpopular criticism of
the day.
"We infer, of course, that a lady's attire
will not bring blushes to her own cheeks. If
a iady's ankles appear to tho gazo of men
in the ordinary exercise of her prerogatives
and privileges, it is only vulgar in the eyes
of the uncultured and unrefined and the gaz
ing gawkey.
"I have no objection to the bicycle at
church,, although the very thought of wor
ship suggests the propriety of avoiding, ob
servation, hence the ordinary costumes are
preferable. — "H. S. Place."
For the benefit of those who have not
in their mind's eye the various bicycle
coF f umes which are worn by f eminine
riders, this paper presents herewith a
representation of different costumes on
the wheel which were drawn from life.
Not one is exaggerated in the least, the
"Among cultured and observing peo
ple that the skirt so popular among
this class reaching to about three in
ches above the ankle."
themselves very readily to the more
complicated designs which are so
fashionable just now, and are found
also in steel effects and different com
binations, although plain black is in
first place. Titian braids are also seen
both alone and combined with other
braids, and braid covered buttons are
occasionally used in connection with
these trimmings. But of whatever
kind, braids of some variety are a ne
cessity for tailor-made and plain cloth
dresses of every description.
For dresses of a more elaborate kind,
yokes, bands and revers are simply
covered with spangles, beads, gold
cord, silk embroidery, and what not.
Seme of the jeweled effects for evening"
and brida! toilettes are exceptionally
lovely, especially white pearl. The
Russian blouse front is quite the new
est in this line. It is made of net,
thickly embroidered with beads. Nar
rew bands to match the bead and silk
embroidered effects decorate the plain
material of which the rest of the blouse
is formed.
Jet will be seen on many of the fine
costumes, and in many different forma.
Boleros, yokes, Muscovite fronts, vests,
revers and panels for the sides or front
of dresses are all made of jet, both on
black and colored foundations. Jet
garnitures and bands on mousseiine or
net seem to be limitless, and will be
used as accessories for costumes of al
most any material or shade. Black
trimmings are distinctly a feature of
the season, both in velvet bands, fur,
braid and jet, and will be used for
colored dresses as much as for black
iteelf. Some of the jet trimmings are
relieved by a touch of steel, which adds
iraterially to the effect.
The new buckles are almost too pret
ty to wear, and. the assortment of de
signs is bewildering. Never before has
so much time and thought been be
stowed upon these small but necessary
articles. They come in jet, steel, gilt,
enamel, and many of them are richly
and beautifully jeweled. Some of the
more expensive ones are in medallion
form, and these are especially intended
Facsimile of the Clergyman's State
*-'&&& -j£4v*4<J<y- 6<cxaz&cc
S&7~- thufibLd**^. /3 "fib. ei/st^t
tfrPbi fr*4*- J7sl*uM- *Zc /&U.
'/Z ctkJ<* ancty^r- >£F P<* *$**
"It is mock modesty that asserts the
shocking appearance of a lady simply
because her ankles appear unincum
Two frills of fur just overlap each other and form the body;: of this stylish
new collarette. Another frill forms the collar, and a bow^ ? of 5 emerald green
velvet, drawn through a diamond slide, heading a jabot <$* cijiam lace, gives
the finishing touch. £T- .--
object being to show a comparison be
tween Mr. Place's idea of what is the
correct costume for a feminine cyclist,
This little mantle has the distinct charm of originality. It is arranged with
very full -wing-shaped sleeves, and a tight-fitting undervest of seal, drawn
cljse to the figure, under a jeweled belt. Turning back from this vest on
either side there are wide revers of Russian sable, ending just below the waist
in a handsome bunch of tails. The rfi§h collar is very fully pleated accord
ing to the latest fashion, and the garment is daintily lined throughout with
a beautiful pink and gold brocade.
and those which are sometimes worn.
It must be distinctly understood that
the illustrations are not designed to
"The lady possesses the right, all her
own, to so order her attire and so wear
it as to appear to best advantage in
her own eyes."
show that the majority of girls and
women who ride the wheel wear ab
surdly short or absurdly long costumes,
but merely to indicate the whole
gamut over which the feminine cos
tumes for bicycles extend.
As a matter of fact the bicycle skirt
vies with the bathing suit skirt as a
matter for discussion. The question
arises, is it not more immodest for a.
woman who goes into the ocean clad in
a bathing skirt that comes barely to
her knees, than it is for a woman who
rides her wheel with a skirt three or
four in/nes above her ankle. It re
quires y(o sophistry to make the aver
age person understand or believe that
the bicycle skirt is really the more
modest of the two, and yet the bathing
, skirt passes unquestioned, worn by
girls and women who would lift their
hands in holy horror at the idea of
mounting a wheel in such a costume.
There is no question but that the bi-
cycle skirt is one of the problems of the
day. The person who would seek to
reveal its ending has a task before
to be worn with the plaid silk blouses
so much in favor this fall. Buckles are
used for decorative purposes on rosettes
and bows, as well as for their more
legitimate use on belts. All of the
handsomest sashes and folded belts
are finished with buckles, a large one
being worn on the front and a smaller
one for the narrower portion at the
Belts as well as buckles have taken
a new lease of life and no fashionable
wardrobe may be said to be complete
without several different styles being
reouired for different occasions. For
dress wear, silver, French gilt and
-Russian enamel, all thickly studded
with jewels, are the correct thing.
Seme of the oxidyzed silver ones set
with emeralds and amethysts are very
chaste and beautiful, and have the ad
vantage of harmonizing with most col
ors. A novelty is formed of miniatures
of lovely faces rimmed in gilt, with
tiny gilt clasps set with turquoises be
tween. For street wear, the leather
belt retains its place, and the buckles
for these are of steel, silver, gilt or
leather covered, while a novelty shows
fur heads for fastenings. Some of the
newest leather belts have the buckle
and strap narrower and on top of the
belt proper, which is in many respects
an improvement.
Another old friend has returned to
popular favor this year, and that is
corduroy. This material has much to
recommend it, as the finer qualities are
very durable, do not muss easily, shed
the dust and rain, and have the further
advantage of always looking- dressy.
Both for jackets and extra skirts, it
.will be largely worn this fall, while
coats and skirts, to be worn with the
silk blouse, are particularly desirable
possessions for any one who requires a
number of street dresses. Grey, cedar
brown and heliotrope are the colors
best liked in this fabric.
Plain velveteens will also be used for
a variety of purposes this season, some
of the lighter colors being especially
in favor. For teagowns this material
is quite well liked, as it hangs admir
ably and wears well. For evening
wear a well chosen velveteen has al
most the effect of the costly velvet and
will see twice the service without sfoow
ing ill effect. Among the shades for
evening are cerise, hyacinth, orange and
tuiquoise blue, while for street wear
there are all shades of purple, blue and
green, all of which make niea street
gowns, either singly or in combination
with cloth.
I* one color stand* out above another
Copyrighted 1897, by Woman's World Pub. Co., N. V., infringers will bo prosecuted to the full extent of the law
All Former Offers Ecllpsed-No Room for Doubt-Mind what we Say. $300.00 for
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An Instructive and Profitable Contest.
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1. P*N*S*L*A*l^s;S»| 3- ****£**.********
cnitedstates *60,0tt> a year talaiy.
2^rr^Ar<V^rv 7 Another Mate of the
. WtStfEWttEft Cnited States. - _ ■ ju M v *■■,«, Xame of ""other Presi
3ff» *<v ej «v ■jv*i -v <mm A jtas* in the lUa L« rt ••» wI. Wdent. He was assassinated
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Address, plainly:
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him or her that is simply gigantic. It
is^ one of those things which must of
necessity be left to the good taste at
the wearer. There are in every walk
of life, among every clas3 of persons
nwho partake of recreation, young wor-
"I have never said that I do not con
sider 'short' bicycle skirts immodest."
this season, I think we must say it is
brown. Rather the light than the dark
shades are chosen, and combinations of
the different shades, as well as com
bined with other colors are very popu
lar. Brown and black, too, bids fair to
be a particularly well liked mixture,
black braids and garnitures of all kinds
being chosen to trim the medium and
light browns. In fact it may be said
that black trimmings on rather light
Queen of Spades— Wasn't the opera ballet shocking, dear?
Queen of Hearts— lndeed, yea, I blush ed deeply.
Queen of Soades— Ah! a genuine royal flush.
en who conceive it to be a fact that
the more conspicuous they make their
attire, the more attractive they render
themselves. This fact is, perhaps,
more apparent among the bicycle girls,
because of the vast number of them.
"We infer, of course, that a lady's
attire will not bring blushes to her
own cheeks." »
colored goods are distinctly more fash
ionable than any other color combina
D»Hi»erntt* Dnel.
MACON, Ga., Oct. IC— Constable Wiliam
Liniba, son of a justice of the peace of
Poworsvllle, in Houston county, and Burkcr
Air.os, colored, fought a desperate duel yes
terday afternoon at the home of Amos, about
two miles from Powersviile. As a result
both men are dead.

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