The Saint Paul globe., February 12, 1899, Image 9

About The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905

Image provided by: Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

                
Woman's Ways.
X HER «=/ /^^^^^
WAYS FOR YOUNG GIRLS TO DRESS THE HAIR.
PRETTIEST WAY TO
WEAR THE HAIR.
It Must Be a Pompadour with or
Without the Forehead
Curls.
HOW TO DRESS THE BACK,
The Secret of the Pretty Bound
Haul as Seen Upon Opera
Beauties.
ARGE KNOT OUT OF STYLE.
No less an authority than Mrs. Sher
wood once dc-sciibeil beauty as "A small
VERY ROUND POMPADOUR, WITH ROLLING TOQUE AND ALSATIAN BOW.
THIS BOW IS MADE OUT OP TWO YARDS OF FIGURED CHIFFON WHICH
COMES THE PROPER WIDTH, AND CAN BE TIED UNDER
THE CHIN IN FOUR LARGE LOOPS AND ENDS
round head, a low forehead, big eyes a
long throat and even features."
One must leave it to the beauty spe-
THE FASHIONABLE ROSE IS BLUSH PINK IN COLOR AND IS VERT NEAR
LY LIKE THE FAMOUS "LAWSON PINK" IN HUE. A ROSE IS AT ITS
MOST FASHIONABLE POINT OF BLOOMING WHEN IT IS PART
LY OPEN, WITH A HARD, CLOSED CENTRE. A ROSE AT
THIS STAGE BRINGS $1, AND IS A VERY ACCEPT
ABLE EASTER GIFT.
THE NEWEST AM ERIC AN BEAUTT,
clalists to manage the other details, but
to the fashion writer belongs the "small
round head," which is now "such a part
of beauty's requirement.
Roundness is the essential of this
year's coiffures, and every style that
will accomplish it is cultivated.
The hair is so arranged as to make the
head a great fluffy mass, round like a
globe. « Not a small globe either but a
great ball of beauty. The hair is brought
back from the forehead, caught upon the
crown of the head and then twisted flat
only to emerge in curls, twists and puffs.
Singularly enough the head looks small,
no matter how the hair is dressed, if the
roundness be preserved.
From the front only the Pompadour is
visible, for the back is arranged too low
and too small to be seen. The style of
dressing the back hair may vary, but
the front is always the same. The back
may be very low or very high, or ar
ranged medium, but the front has th 6
big round loose effect.
THE POMPADOUR.
The Pompadour style of dressing the
hair is still the favorite, but, as are all
fads, it is modified to suit the wearer's
face, though alas! sometimes to suit her
taste.
It is distressing to see. above 1 a long
thin face, a high Pompadour, only accen
tuating the length. Then, again, what
ia more absurd than to see the pudgy-
faced woman peeping like a sky-terrier
from under the loosely hanging Pompa
dour, with innumerable curls around her
THE ST. PAUL- GLOBE SUNDAY FEBRUARY 12, 1899/
brows and looking as If the March wind
were her constant companion.
Strange that the name "Pompadour"
should stand for the crisp little waves
combed high above the forehead, and also
for the light puff carelessly falling low
over the brow, yet such is the case.
With the Pompadour has come in all
sorts and shapes of jeweled combs, rib
bons, flowers and even gauze spangled
and ostrich feathers all jeweled down the
stem.
For the opera the coiffures are most
carefully considered, as they show to
great advantage.
Butterflies of gauze covered with sil
ver sequins are worn; sometimes they
u\? qui , t^, l ,? rse and elisten above the hair
like a brilliant little opera hat. One seen
recently was a huge affair of pale blue
covered with silver sequins. Every move
wu of the hoad m "d<* the wings flutter
a nn the effect was most bewildering. The
coiffure was a loosely-waved Pompadour
with temple ringlets and the inevitable
Mane Antoinette curls hanging low on
the neck The hair was twisted on the
crown of the head just below the butter
fly, butterflies seem to be a favorite just
now and m a most elaborate ball coiffure
were placed two diamond studded tortoise
snell butterflies.
Wired satin bows and bow knots are
seen a great deal.
Some women find the parted hair so
becoming that they are loth to give up
that style; so they wave the hair from
the temples, forming a puff over the
ear, with temple curls and the hair
dressed rather low. The effect this way
is dressy and pretty.
i , Th c style of coiffure that is smartest
out which so few women can stand is to
comb the hair back over a puff, the hair
being waved closely and regularly. The
hair is twisted high with a single flower
quite large, but showing no foliage. Noth
ing is quainter than the high Pompadour
pushed far forward by the comb that
half encircles the head. The hair is drawn
down smoothly In a close knot
on the crown of the head Al
most as quaint is having the
hair arranged the same way, but
a silken net is employed to hold the hair
at the nape of the neck. But these two
styles require a well-shaped head. So be
aHE POMPADOUR CAN BE ADAPTED TO ALL STYLES OF BEAUTY AND TO ALL AGES. FOR THIS SEASON
MOTHERS AND DAUGHTERS WEAR THEIR HAIR ALIKE, WI*H SLIGHT VARIATIONS AS TO THF
STYLES OF FOREHEAD CURLS.
sure you are not lacking the bump of
amiability, sociability or whichever bump
it is that is necessary to give you a- nicely
rounded head before you attempt this
style.
The care of the hair is one of the
details of pretty hair dressing-. It should
be shampooed very often, as often as
once in four weeks, which modern hair
specialists will tell you is rather fre
quent and it should be brushed free from
dust daily. Too frequent wasiiings take
all the oil out of the hair and vigorous
hair must be kept fluffy or it can not be
pretty.
It is almost impossible to do up the
hair without tying it. The looseness
causes it to gradually come down much
to the mortification of the wearer, but
with a tie into which to stick the hair
pins there is no such danger. Many use
the patent hair fasteners, others prefer
the domestic string, but there are others
who choose the small piece of elastic
that is used by the hair-dresser. What
ever method is chosen a tie is almost
essentia.. With her hair hanging like a
great tail down her neck a woman can
twist, braid, roll or otherwise turn her
hair in many pretty ways.
It may be remarked for this season's
styles that they can not be prettily ar
ranged if the hair be very long. Short
hair, not too thick, does up well. Thick
hair if short can be managed, but the
very long, very abundant crop of hair can
not be done up prettily.
MARY GOODWIN HUBBELL.
WINTER FASHIONS
FOR DOGS.
Unless You Are Far Behind the
Times Your Darling Will
Have a Stylish Coat
It ha 3 been for two seasons the
fashion in the smart set to dress the pet
THE FUTURE HOME OF THE RI CHEST COUPLE IN THE WORLD.
BELVOIR, THE LOVELY NEWPORT VILLA IN WHICH IT IS WHISPERED
THAT MR. AND MRS. W. K. VANDERBILT, JR., WILL SPEND
THEIR HONEYMOON IN JUNE.
I dog to match the livery and carriage
robes.
But the latest fad among fashionable
women and those who are not so fash
ionable is to have a coat made for her pet
dog of the same cloth and trimming as
her newest winter coat or gown. And for
the accommodation of these canine ex
quisites the fine tailoring establishments
have to save out a piece of the specially
woven goodr, from which their rich patron
has ordered a tailor-made coat, no matter
what the cost.
It must be perfectly fitted to dear
doggie's figure, just as particularly as her
own is fitted, and the braiding is done in
the exact pattern to match the costume,
and soon you will see all the ultra-fash
ionables out for a walk— like girl, like doe
SILK LINED.
Sometimes these dog tailor modes are
lined with silk, while one perfumed pup
was last week gotten up in a pearl-gray
satin, coat, with lilies of the valley em
broidered round the edge, to match the
bridal gown of his young mistress on her
wedding day.
When a leading tailor was asked as
to what he knew of the fad, he rather
hesitatingly said that such orders had
been placed with him, but he would in
nowise mention the names of his cus
tomers, though he would show some of
NEWPORT'S GREAT
HOUSE-WARMING.
Belvoir, on Beacon Hill, Will Be
Thrown Open in June to the
Wealthiest Cottple in
the World.
NEWPORT, Feb. '8.— AH NewDort Is
waiting for Miss Fair. Not Miss Vir
ginia Fair, as she is known now but
Mrs. William K. Vanderbllt, jr thcT'glori
ously wealthy younj matron who will
Sf r! ?re ,i in June' to take possession
Hill spacious villa on Beacon
Newport expects a fine summer this
year, for the Mackiys-Mr. and C
Clarence Maekay— are to /have a cottage
here, and there will be all the other line
old Newport families.
You are. "one of the old families" in
Newport if you have been here three
seasons, and the Morgans, the Stokes
the Vandevbilts. the Oelrichs. the Potter
Palmers, the Grants, and ever so m-iny
others whose names mean millions have
spent their three seasons here, and are
now good old Newport families
Miss Virginia Fair, the young woman
about whom the Newport season will
revolve, and in whom will centre the in
terest which only the bride of untold
millions can attract, has always been
a conspicuous figure in Newport
No young woman has triod as hard
to live a quiet life and none has suc
ceeded less. Born in California, and
spending her early days in a convent in
the West, Miss Fair found herself at
an early age the owner of millions in her
own right. The death of her father and
mother left her one of the richest or-
THREE VARIETIES OF THE POMPADOUR COIFFURE.
phans in the world, and she immediate
ly became the prey of fortune-hunters
and the subject of much matrimonial
speculation.
Her sister, Tessie, early married that
millionaire clubman, athlete and man of
the world, Herman Oelrichs, and settled
down to the life of a very conventional
society matron. Miss Virginia was placed
in her sister's care, and, when she was
not in school in San Francisco or in a
Paris convent, she waa-M Newport with
Mrs. Oelrichs, or- In New York with
friends.
Newport knew Miss Fair as a little
girl, and very entertaining Newporters
found her. She could swim the furthest,
row the fastest, sail a yacht the straight
est, and bowl the surest of al] the New
popt. girls.
Latterly she took .to bicycle riding,
and won all the Newport championships.
She rode against Miss Clews and Miss
Brice, and out-rode them both, though
both are skillful cyclists. When she had
ridden her race out she tooled a coach
just to rest herself, and finished up by
dancing u^til midnight.
With ess these accomplishments Miss
Fair di.V*u>Scl publicity, and would never
allow fc?r«elf to be talked about. She
was only a society girl with no wish for
notoriety. In fact, except for the talk
which was sure to be aroused by the
possession of so much money, Newport
would never have known Miss Fair as
anything but a pretty, sprightly girl
without pretentions of any kind.
Just after her introduction Into so
ciety, which was delayed by the death
of her mother. Miss Fair made a visit
abroad, and was presented at court. Here
she was sought by men of title and a
prince proposed to her. But somehow a
title never seemed worth while to this
rose of California, 'and she shook her
head, saying that she would never marry
a man till she could find one she loved.
As the season passed away without find
ing her engaged, society awoke to the
fact that here was a young heiress who
was very well contented with her sta
tion and was content to remain Miss
Fair, of America, until she could put on
the veil of a bride with a heart still
beating loyally. No. she would not marry
for a title; that was understood.
Numerous American beaux sought her
hand. At one. time she was reported en-
gaged to Mr. Brice, again rumor linked
her with one of the.- F-almer sons, and
r.gain her name was coupled with that
of W. K. Vanderbili; sr.
But Miss Fair sprung a surprise upon
society when she announced her engage
ment to William X., Vanjderbilt, jr.; and
smilingly received the congratulations of
society at her sister s reception.
Belvoir. the Newport house, which
has recently been hfrred by Mr. Vander
bilt, is a .stone structure standing out
prominently on Beacon Hill. It is mag
nificently furnished," and, is one of the
most desirable cottages of Newport It
stands in the midst oil eight acres of
charming lawn, and- from the south side
you get a superb view ofLtlie ocean. The
great drawing-room :fcu-w the water and
is one of the best rooms for entertain
ment in Newport.
For many years Belvoir has been the
desirable rental place. It was occupied
by Cornelius Vanderbilt when he was
building the "Breakers." At one time
Abram S. Hewitt, former Mayor of New
York, lived in it. and Mr. Anson Plielps
Stokes occupied it with his family for a
season. Its rental is very high, and the
agents hold Belvoir until they get their
price. It was supposed that the young
couple would reside in Marble House,
where young Mr. Vanderbilt lived last
summer, but for family reasons they have
chosen a home by themselves.
ROYAL LADIES
AT HOME.
They Are Busy with Their Duties
and They Enjoy Wearing
Their Crowns.
DIFFERENT FROM KINGS,
His Majesty Finds a Deal of Pleasure
Outside the Palace
Walls.
THE FADS AND FANCIES OP A QUEEN
The movement, recently suggested by
a woman's society of England, to prevent
any but a woman from occupying the
throne is a high tribute to the excellent
character borne by the royal ladi«s of Eu
rope.
There are fourteen Queens of Europe,
all of whom are known for their virtues.
Their home life is free from vanity—in
dustrious and good. They wear their
crowns with dignity and grace and appre
ciate the privilege of being a Queen.
One of the happiest of European
Queens is Queen Olga of Greece. She i.s a
-Russian and a cousin to the Czar, but is
rather German in her ways. For many
years she has led a quiet and pleasant
life in the simple palace at Athens, In
terested in the gradual uplifting of Greece
after its centuries of oppression by the
Turk, always first in any movement for
national culture, and fond of bringing
about her the bright people from all parts
of the world who come to study in Athena
or to visit the romantic hills and dales of
the historic little country.
The Queen is very proud of her sons,
one of whom, the Duke of Sparta, has vis
ited America, where he spent a laborious
day studying the Brooklyn Navy Yard.
He is a sailor and hopes to do much tow
ard the rebuilding of that Greek navy
Ihe private life of the Pearl of Savoy,
as Queen Margherita of Italy is called by
her adoring subjects, has been bright with
happiness in recent years. The marriage
or her son to Helene of Montenegro gave
her great pleasure.
Once a great beauty, now rather stout
and matronly, she has kept the affection
of the King from the time of their court
ship, and he is, of all Italians, the most
devoted to domestic ties.
At Monza, the summer palace of the
court, the Queen goes on Alpine expedi
tions, climbing mountains and crossing
crevasses with all the boldness of an ex
perienced mountaineer. Margherita is al
ways well-dressed and her jewels are the
finest worn by any .European sovereign
The private life of the Queen of Spain
is always interesting, and never more so
than at present.
The quiet Austrian lady who now
keeps the regency, while she is bringing
up the boy King to his difficult position,
has never been gossipped about. Pious
and laborious, modest and shrinking it
was at first feared that she would not be
sufficiently brilliant for the central figure
of a court which contains perhaps three
hundred of the most beautiful women in
Europe.
But it was by virtue of her simplicity
and modesty that she obtained and kept
complete control. While she always rec
ognizes that it is her son alone who is to
have the supreme power, ehe manages in
many quiet ways to exercise great influ
ence upon Spanish affairs.
She comes of an old family, fond of
formality and display, and has for genera
tions held a conspicuous place in Austria
but she seems to work with determina
tion to break down the old-fashioned and
cumbrous etiquette of Spain, and sub
stitute for it some of the simpler and
lighter ways of modern democracy, which
she has studied to advantage.
So much has been written and said
about the private life of Queen and Em
press Victoria that the public can hardly
expect anything new.
Yet in these later years a new phase
of the palace life of the Queen is notice
able; It is her increasing love for the
opera and the theatre. The old lady
spends hours of her time in superintend
ing the invitations of large parties to en
joy with her in her private theatre the
talent of Irving, of Albani, of the dainty
genius of Duse, or an evening with the
comics, at whose antics she laughs as
heartily as any of her subjects.
As the concert rooms of Windsor Cas
tle are not especially adapted to modern
theatrical performances, the old lady has
to pay pretty roundly for the privilege of
seeing the opera and comedy under her
own roof.
But is is also understood that beyond
a fixed sum She .will not go, so that theat
rical companies generally find themselves
considerably out of pocket by a visit to
the Queen.
The prestige which they derive from
the visit of course brings them a golden
share of profit in return.
As one by one the Queen's daughters
have left her, she has given to her .grand
children, who are getting to be very nu
merous, the affection which she once be
stowed upon her own girls.
Each year she seems to change her
mind and have a new favorite grandchild,
but this is probably done with a desire not
to arouse any jealousy, and to make them
all happy.
The Empress Augusta Victoria of Ger
many keeps an elaborate private journal,
a tradition in the family requiring her to
do so. This takes an hour or two of her
time each day.
The journal is kept in neat little books
made expressly for the work, and it is
furnished with a golden clasp and a lock,
for which none but the Empress herself
has the key. Not even her husband ever
glances through these intimate and priv
ate pages, which contain, as they are de
signed to do, a history of the court life of
the period, quite different from the cut and
dried political records.
Other similar duties, combined with the
care of six or seven children, keep the
Empress Augusta Victoria pretty busy,
and it is not strange that she has some
times to call in the aid of her husband,
who knows a little of everything, to help
her cho-jse and design dresses for tne great
festivals.
One of the fads of the German Em
press is the personal embroidery of all the
clothes for her children. This she consld-'
ers a solemn duty for every mother, and
she has gone through it in the case of her
seven children with exemplary patience.
She also keeps a keen supervision over
the cookery of the imperial table. The Em
peror himself is not finical in matters of
eating, but likes the rough ways of the
camp with a tall glass of beer, even at
the lunch table. But for dinner he la
more particular and delicate, even when
there are no gueets, and the daily consid
eration of the menu falls to the lot of 'his
wife, who greatly enjoys the task.
The young Czarina of. Russia leads a .
very peaceful, though conventional life. I
She must walk and ride and receive at [
THE FASHIONABLE D OG AND HIS BOUDOIR.
DOCj'S NiqHT-SHIRT'RMD BASKET. „
THIS BASKET IS MADE OUT OF AN ORDINARY WORK BASKET Till
OPENINGS ARE BOUND WITH SHIRRED RIBBON. IT MAKES
AN IDEAL SLEEPING PLACE FOR A PET DOG.
certain times; and she can know only cer
tain persons, but, on the other hand, she is
treated with rare respect. She can dress
in royal magnificence every day and be
waited upon by hundreds of servants. She
leads a charming life, made ideal by the
love of her royal husband.
TO ARRANGE THE HAIR IN THIS WAY TOU MUST FIRST) TIE THE BACK
AND THEN WAVE THE ENTIRE FRONT. THE BACK IS THEN COIL
ED CLOSE TO THE HEAD AND FINISHED "WITH A BUTTER
FLY ORNAMENT. THE CURLS ARE ARTIFICIAL AND
Hfi!i3[iji__ PINNED ON AFTERWARD.
DRESSED FOR A BACK VIEW AT THE OPERA.
li
Wilhelmina, who is just unfolding her
love story, is the happiest young woman
in Europe. In the first flush of her power
she . thoroughly loves her crown. She
spends her days meeting her ministers,
THE HANDSOMEST QUEEN IN EUROPE.
TSK ™£££ S !£rF££ QUEEN OP ITALY IS SO DESIROUS OF KEEPING IIEB
YOUTH AND BEAUTY THAT SHE DRESSES IN FINE ROBES EVERY ,
DAY AND WEARS A HANDSOME TIARA AT DINNER
walking in her conservatories and design
ing new gowns. She lias ordered an en
larged navy and has shown much pride tk
Holland's army.
The Queens of Europe are so notr-d foi
sacrifice of life, devotion to the interests oi
others, thoroughness in learning every-
thing from languages to embroidery, care*
ful restraint of all caprice, and even co
quetry that, even If they are willful and
full of caprice by nature, these things ara
rooted up and cast away by training.