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LILLIAN RUSSELL ON HER BICYCLE ON THE WAY TO GRANT'S TOMB.
MiSS RUSSELL TELLS OUR WOMEN READERS HOW THEY CAN PRESERVE HEALTH, FIGURE AND BEAUTY. NECKWEAR FOR WINTER DAYS, i Neat, Showy Neck Ornaments to Wear Over Half-Worn Wool "ii Gowns. TO COVER DRESS FRONT. They Are Tied Very Broad in Front ami Hang Quite to the Waist Line. HINTS ON MAKING THEM AT HOME. NEW YORK. Feb. 21.— There is noth ing quite as hard to make at home as the neck ornament There is something peculiar about trimmings for the neck. They are so hard to make unless one has a knack for that sort of thing. One of the leading modistes of New York is authority for the statement that any woman can make any g-arment- she! wears if she allows herself the necessary* material. The trouble is that she tries to make up her neck trimmings and other! articles out of odds and ends; and the re-! suit is poor. It is well when making a fichu, a col larette or a cravat, whatever you may call it, to buy one in the shops first. Theii * if you so desire you can obtain the cor- I rect pattern, and the result will be very ! -satisfactory, or much more so than though you had gone to work without a ! pattern. Many of the most beautiful pieces cf ; neckwear of spring are" made of three or ! four materials and are aiso of three or i four colors. While nothing looks so pretty next the face as white, still there are the delicate tints that are not to/.'C despised. This is particularly true of rose, which is becom ing to nearly every face by gas light. VERY' ECONOMICAL. As a matter of economy these neck pieces cannot be valued too highly, for they cover up and protect an old dress and keep it from going to pieces altogeth- THESE YOUNGSTERS ARE THE CHILDREN OF GEORGE JAY GOULD, AND THEY ARE E\CH WORTH A GREAT DEAL OF MONEY. THEIR FATHER IS ONE OF THE RICHEST MEN IN THE WORLD HIS FOR TUNE IS CONSTANTLY ACCUMULATING, AND BY THE TIME THEY GROW UP EACH CHILD WILL BE A MULTI-MILLIONAIRE. i^^^\ : THREE CHILDREN WHO ARE WORTH MANY MILLIONS IN THEIR OWN RIGHT. er. With a good set of collarettes a wom an can prolong the life of her -old winter dresses until Easter. Thick materials are never pretty for the neck. Even ribbon has its objection unless worn with a white collar showing above. The stocks are pretty because they are finished with the stiff linen col lar, which is becoming if worn with a tailor-made dress. There are those who claim that the linen collar is too harsh a frame for a woman's face, but it must be admitted that nothing gives quite so neat a finish. Plaids are to be worn this spring made up into stocks and all the new silks will be treated in this way. Stripes and checks are so very becoming that a woman does not easily give them up, and they are to be impressed into neck service for spring. >.ew York women have a fancy for wearing neckwear in great variety. They do not confine themselves to one style. In the morning it is a cravat with long ends, and in the evening a big embroidered bow tied under the chin. Every kind of thii gauzy material is used, sometimes combined with ribbon and again just a wide satin ribbon is used. Pale blue, not a turquoise, but just the delicate "baby blue," is liked best. It is dressy and not so conspicuous as the gera nium pink and carnation or automobile red. The latter is a "new shade," and is combined with ruchings of black or white chiffon with jet embroidery on the long end. ALL KINDS OF MATERIALS. \ Very often the satin ribbons are tied around a linen collar with the little turn ed-over edges. One of these was worn last week by a woman dressed in velvet, but the effect was chic instead of being out of place. Her cravat was of light blue satin rib bon, tied so that the loops were only three inches wide, but the longer ends were made to'appear longer by a very full ruffle of deep Mechlin lace which fell waist length over the black velvet jacket. Plaided taffeta ribbon is edged with nar row black lace or chiffon. The ribbon is three inches wide. This simply contrived affair is quite stunning. For the house many little cravats of chiffon, tulle or net are most userul in freshening up the winter gowns. A very odd one was rather like a lour-in-haud of creped mousseline. The stock was of tiny pint's of the mousseline, and through tlie knOt at the throat was caught a wide flaring bow of the same material. Very unusual was a stock of violet velvet, cut high up around the ear,s and edged 'with white chiffon ruchings, eaugnt by a circu lar buckle of brilliants. In front was a large soft bow of white chiffon. For a dinner or theatre waist, which has been worn several times, nothing is more effective than a bow and blouse of white tulle with black ehantillv lace ap pliqued. A clever girl can easily copy this design or introduce any fine lace beading in lattice design or bayadere stripes. Boas are quite passe now and the short-looped, long-ended cravat is fashion's favorite. MARY GOODWIN HUBBELL. THE ST. PAUL- GLOBE SUNDAY FEBRUARY 26, 1899. A LITTLE LINING TALK. A dress that is well lined is well ! made. There are just two kinds of lining— i silk and not silk. Cheap silk is the worst lining there is. j It will hold its shape for a few weeks and then it wil! sag and get slimpsy. It will rustle while the new gloss is on it, then it will crack and be a constant annoyance. It takes nine yards to line a skirt, flood silk is the best lining there is. I Taffeta is the best silk for lining. Taf feta costs 85 cents to $1 a yard. It takes about nine yards to line a skirt. It makes a skirt hang well, and it rustles beauti fully. Next to good silk the best skirt lining is rustleline. It is a new kind of perca line. It is durable and it keeps its shape. There are other silk substitutes just as good. It is so stiff that it does not need haircloth as an assistant. It rustles very I well. It is 28 cents a yard and six yards | of it will line a skirt of average length. * Percaline is a good, serviceable lining. It is soft and pliable and it will not crack or pull out of shape. It comes in all colors. It does not rustle. It is to be had at 15 cents a yard. Moreen is a good winter lining. It is heavy and reasonably stiff, and it is sold at 29 cents a yard. French dress makers are giving up the use of silk for a bodice lining. They say silk will not stretch or mould itself to the figure as it should do to be a good waist lining. Good cambric or sateen makes the best waist lining. Very pretty lining cambrics come in figured colors now. They cost from 12 to 30 cents a yard. Ribbon is not used for binding* seams this winter. Galloon is a good binding for seams. It is a cross between tape and ribbon and it costs a cent a yard. Skirt bindings edge a skirt. Velveteen waterproof binding is durable and con venient. "DON'TS" FOR MOTHERS. An infant should be given no food con taining starch until it cuts its teeth. Starchy foods include biscuits, coTn flour, j tapico, sago, rice, potato, etc. An infant cannot digest any of these until its teeth are cut. Violent noises ' and rough shakings or tossings are hurtful to a baby, and should be avoided as much as possible. Infants should never be put in a sit ting posture until they are at least 3 months' old, when they will probably sit up of their own accord. They should be carried flat in the nurse's arms, as if the little back is at all curved it may lead to curvature of the spine or chest disease. Until children are li or 7 years old they should have twelve hours' sleep every night. In addition to this a nap for two hours, either in the morning or afternoon, especially in hot weather, will do a great deal toward keeping them brigßt and well. A BEAUTY TALK BY I - LILLIAN RUSSELL. She Tells Our Fair Readers How They Can Defy Sunburn, Wind and Damp Weather and fciives Her Own Recipes, ~ — I know tbat some or my readers will i say that to be pretty you must be born I pretty, but I do not think so. To be sure the matter of features, and general contour aire decided when one '• grows up— but besides the features, and i the shape of the face, there is a great deal upon which beauty depends,. I will say lhat 1 havo seen some very ' pretty women with not a regular feature; I have been other women who were ex tremely ugly, almost repulsive, yet whose I features were as regular as that of Helen I of Troy. If Paris were here to-day. with the apple, he would award it to the woman not with correct features, but who had a good complexion: whose teeth were white! and even: whose eyes were shaded by 1 those mystic veils which record and hide : their mystic feelings; whose hair was ! glossy and beautiful; whose neck was Shapely and graceful; whose ease wast that ol a queen. These can all be obtain eo, and it is unnecessary to be added they are never born with a person— they must be acquired. ■ P -iH? f „ COl "" Ht n a ! 1 Wi " admit - f one hundred St-!,'!, aU to BTOW U1) t0 womanhood, atl with the same care— some would turn l out pretty and some would be ugly Th-.t I is natural. But beauty specialists will tell ' J.ou and well groomed women will admit, ! is ,t U ,Vi- B,y ***£. C0Ul ? have bee » made as attractive as the pretty ones. I make no claim to beauty myself and talfcw h ??f itate " bo -. lt writing a beauty talk— but my profession is such that: ™?°f n attractiveness 1 could not sue- : ceea-and as attractiveness is the secret ; of success in all businesses, and as all women want to be attractive. I make'boldl to write this little talk upon attractive ness, which word I will substitute for that : of beauty. FOR SUNBURN. If I am called out on a hot summer nay, or it I voluntarily go out for a walk or ride, I find that my skin suffers as all ' skins will: my face reddens and burns, and the end of my nose— l must admit it —gets provokingly crimson. ' Wlic-n [ return 1 take measures to pre- ; vent permanent disfigurement, such as too many women often carry with them as a banner of summer time. As soon as l' reach mv room I anoint my face witfl ;< I cold cream, containing such ingredients as are warranted to remove redness There are many such. I generally buy mine, although there are many harmless ones that can be made at home. The FANCY NECK PIECES MADE OF TULLE AND OTHER THIN GOODS ARE TIED UNDER THE CHIN IN A BIG BOW WITH ENDS THAT HANG FAR -R'FH.nw TT4TT*. watbt T/rNrTr** • *>„.... <^>»"" l/ THE WAY TO DRESS UP AN OLD WAIST creams that are_purchased are rather ex pensive, though in the long run they are cheap, because they are so efficacious, and because so very little is needed at a time. The woman who doeg not want to pay a dollar for a pot of cream can make a very nice cold cream in her own kitchen. Let her buy two pounds of mutton fat. If she will cut this in small pieces and "try it out", on the, stove she will obtain a teacup of nice clear fat, which she must strain through a piece of cheesecloth. When this cools it gets hard and white and is an excellent -clear fat. After it has cooled and become hardened let her melt it up again and strain it a second time. Now take and add a teaspoonful of very good essence of perfume and, if she desires to have a very soft cream, half a cup of vaseline. Stir all together and pour in the cold cream jars to harden. It will become the consistency of thick cream and can be easily applied with the fingers. The dear old ladies of Lafayette's day, when the good general was the beau of American society, used to prepare cold cream jars by emptying egg shells and scenting them with perfume. The shells had a little opening in one end. and the other was slightly broken to make them stand, a la Columbus. COLD CREAM. There is another cold cream which is very good, and has white vaseline as a basis. This, like the other, must be melt ed and perfumed. It is then allowed to cool and placed in jars. This makes a very soft cream, which is used for very tender sunburn. For chapped hands and lips I would advise a very different treat ment, although all cream has fat as a bas is. This can be made by securing mutton tallow. Be careful again that the mutton is pure and the fat nicely strained. Taka half a cup of tallow and into it pour a teaspoonful of camphor. Stir well and pour into an earthen jar; it will become very firm. Now cut it and wrap each of the pieces in silver foil. Rub it on the backs of the hands or lips. Very obstinate hands can be treated , with home-made soap. Take castile soap and melt it. It will take a long time be fore it becomes a liquid. But as soon aa there are no lumps, stir in the soap half a cup of powdered oatmeal. Half a cup of oatmeal to a pound of soap, weighed be fore it is melted, is a good proportion. Add a few drops of cologne and form into a cake which can be done as soon as the soap begins to harden— place the cakee in SOME BROILING DOFTS. Don't broU over a fire if you can broil under it. Don't try to broil over a low fire. Don't put coal on the fire just before you have to use the gridiron. Don't let the fat that drips from the steak or chops catch fire. — a dry spot and In two weeks you can begin to use them. The ordinary toilet soap can be made into aA'ery good article by the addition o-f oatmeal or Indian meal. This gives a sort of tooth to the soap which is very cleansing-. For the hair there are various things advertised. A frequent recipe tor perfum ing the hair being- a sachet-cap, which is a little night-cap lined with silk and filled with "(achat powder. But i do not think this is very beneficial to the hair. The hair requires light and air and this cannot be secured in such a cap*: THE HAIR. I would advise keeping the hair well shampooed and nicely brushed; and this, with careful hair dressing, is all that is really required. A drop of perfume on the temples will give a scent to the looks. I know that Viennese ladies dry the hair thoroughly and sachet it by means of the scented cap, but 1 am of the opinion ■that a more satisfactory result is obtained by the shampooing and brushing. The hair, as long as It is nicely dress ed, is beautiful and attractive. To per fume it is idle. I have been asked in many private let ters written me by women who long for beauty if 1 ever wash my lace. One writ er said pathetically: "1 have tried to go without water, but my face feels-- sticky and dasagreeable all day. Tell me how you manage not to wash your face." This letter would be funny were it not pathet ic. The poor woman who could not get comfortable without washing her face has my heartfelt sympathy— although I never tried the experiment of doing without water. They say the adorable Patti has not washed ber face in ten years, but I -am inclined to think the lovely Patti would tell a different story. The pores of the face must be kept open and pure, like the rest of the body, or tbe skin will get dark and cloudy. It is some years since the beauties of the world relied on enamel and years be fore they will go back to it. No, my dear madam, wash your face; keep your sys tem pure; use as few cosmetics as possi ble; partake of good food, and you will have a good skin. This I verily believe. A word about the matter of food. Do not economize in your eating. I was told the other day that women shoppers, espe cially of the better class, will do a whole day of shopping in the stores without par taking of a sufficient meal. This should never be done. Nothing destroys the com- plexion like an empty stomach. It is like running an engine without fuel— all parts suffer. Keep your system well nourished. If you are inclined to fat you can diet, but do not economize in your food. Do not take pork and beans, corn beef and cabbage, because they are cheap. Let economy show in other ways, for the pretty women never lived who did not eat well. Again about exercising. I do not be lieve in Herculean efforts nor in the swinging of dumb bells; but if you can find a pleasant exercise, like cycling, by all means practise it. The Princess of Wales has a station ary bicycle, in her boudoir upon which she rides on rainy days. It is suspended by ropes from the ceiling, and is mounted on a platform in such a way that the wheels run freely; the chain is tightened so as to make pedalling equal to that on an ordinary road. If you have the means to do this, by all means set up a bicycle. Late hours never have, and never will, hurt a woman's looks, provided she gets her necessary rest. "Early to bed and early to rise" is one of those old sayings which should die out before it is" drilled into another generation. Country people go to bed early and get up early, yet I fail to see that they are any the "healthier, wealthier, or wiser" than city people who go to bed late and get up late. If you secure your nine hours of sleep you will have all you need. Eight hours will do, but seven is not enough. After a hard night" s work I can sleep from 2 in the morning until noon, which gives me ten hours, and if I am not playing I can rest in the afternoon. If you have an occu pation, and in these days most all women have, be sure you get your sleep and you can work on and look pretty year after year. At what age a woman should lose her beauty I am not prepared to say, I am observing. I have seen Patti go from the forty mark in the fifty-sixth year and she is still beautiful. Mrs. Hicks-Lord at sixty was lovely. The Princess of Wales is long since a grandmother yet she, too, is pretty. So I am inclined to think that beauty is beauty and has nothing to do with age. Unkempt beauty, on the other hand, is like the flower which not being preserved withers at the end of its little day, its bloom is short. So with the nat ural bloom of youth; it lasts only through youth. But the colors preserved will en dure, and the bright eyes, the red cheeks and the glossy hair can be bright and red and glossy at 60— at least, I have seen them so. Don't leave the steak or chops on the stove if you have to quit the kitchen. Don't vleave the kitchen door open when you are broiling meat. Don't take the tops off the stove to broil unless you are willing to cool your ovens. Don't forget that it is better to broil a steak on a hot, dry frying pan than over a poor fire. ■i A PICTURE HAT POR LENT. LONG BOWS OF WHITE SILK, WITH ENDS OF FINE LACE. A WOMAN BROKER JUONDON. She Has Gone to Work to Make "Millions and Millions" for the Building of Hospitals. Lady Francis Cook, or Tennessee— Tennie C— Claflin, as she is known in this country, has again set all London talking about her. The sign Lady Cook & Co., brokers, adorns London's Wall street, and her ladyship goes to her office every day at 1 and remains till 4. directing her brokers. A representative of this newspaper called to see Lady Cook the other day, and had- a very pleasant conversation with her. "I am not in the business for fun, by any means," said Lady Cook, laughingly, when asked why she had gone into stocks. "I am here to make money—mill ions and millions. "My husband,' continued Lady Cook, is one of the richest men in England, as you know, and people naturally won der why I have gone into business. Well, I will tell them. It is to make money for charitable enterprises—specially one! "I am greatly interested in the build ing of hospitals for women— women for whom I am working— and I am going to make a whole lot of money so that I can establish these hospitals all over the world. My husband, Sir Francis Cook, is thoroughly in sympathy with me, and has placed his entire fortune at my disposal. "Sir Francis, as you know, is S2 years old, while I am less than 50, but we are muth devoted to each other, and he is anxious to have me continue my work." Tennessee Claflin, with her sister, Vic toria Woodhull, will be remembered as the two sisters who went into Wall street years ago. They made money, and sub sequently went to London, where Vic toria Woodhull married the late John Biddulph Martin, a rich banker, and Miss Claflin married Sir Francis Cook. Mrs. Woodhull was at the time a widow. Lady Cook is very popular, and, when she cares for it, goes in the best society. INK STAINS. Even the busiest woman cannot be pardoned for going to dinner with ink stained fingers. A slice of lemon or a bit of pumice stone will remove all sugges tions of ink. Unless the stain is under neath the nail, the pumice is to be pre ferred as undiluted lemon juice is apt to harden the citicle of the nails. TENNESSEE CLAFLIN (LADY COOK), THE AMERICAN WOMAN WHO HA3 GONE INTO THE WALL STREET OF LONDON TO MAKE MILLIONS AND MILLIONS. £*** *!—***■**-■■ "■*— ' — "-" — mrl—iiii M.im «». m M— l» LADY COOK, OF LADY COOK & CO., BROKERS. THE HAPPY GOOLDCHILDREN. They Revel in the Things That Every Child Enjoys, and Live Like Princes and Princesses. The happiest children in New York city or in New Jersey— for they are now at Lakewood— are the little ones of George Gould. No children of the Four Hundred have , a better time than they, for their father and mother go upon the principle that children should be brought up healthy, sportive creatures, and they provide them with every sort of outdoor amusement. At Lakewood the Gould children have a large building which is devoted to sports of all kinds. It is an indoor gymnasium, with tennis court and croquet ground. It is so large that if they were inclined they could turn it into golf links. In the summer these children live at Seabright, where their father is presi dent of the Golf Association, and where they have a magnificent villa overlooking the Shrewsbury river. Hot days they go yachting, and if the weather is very warm their father takes them on a cruise. A year ago they went to Alaska in Au gust. These children have every sort of pet. The elder boy, Kingdon, exhibited his pet pony at the New York Horse Show this year and took a prize. His younger brother, Jay, had prize dogs at the Dog Show. There are five of the Gould children. The. three oldest are Kingdon, Jay and Marjorie. Then comes George, jr., and Vivian, who are mere babies. These chil dren are very democratic youngsters, for they know no better, not having yet learned the value of wealth. Little Jay, the one who is seated, has a fine temper of his own, and soundly rated a groom at the Horse Show for riding a pony in a clumsy way. Their father looks after their worldly interests remarkably well, and, it is said, sets aside a certain amount of stock each year for each individual child. TOOTHACHE NO EXCUSE. Toothache will no longer be accept ed by the Geneva, Switzerland, Postoffice as an excuse for the absence of em ployees. The superintendent has issued a circular directing them to have their teeth extracted rather than have tha service suffer.