The Saint Paul globe., February 26, 1899, Image 19

About The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905

Image provided by: Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

                
LILLIAN RUSSELL ON HER BICYCLE ON THE WAY TO GRANT'S TOMB.
MiSS RUSSELL TELLS OUR WOMEN READERS HOW THEY CAN PRESERVE HEALTH, FIGURE AND BEAUTY.
NECKWEAR FOR
WINTER DAYS, i
Neat, Showy Neck Ornaments to
Wear Over Half-Worn Wool
"ii Gowns.
TO COVER DRESS FRONT.
They Are Tied Very Broad in Front
ami Hang Quite to the
Waist Line.
HINTS ON MAKING THEM AT HOME.
NEW YORK. Feb. 21.— There is noth
ing quite as hard to make at home as the
neck ornament
There is something peculiar about
trimmings for the neck. They are so hard
to make unless one has a knack for that
sort of thing.
One of the leading modistes of New
York is authority for the statement that
any woman can make any g-arment- she!
wears if she allows herself the necessary*
material. The trouble is that she tries to
make up her neck trimmings and other!
articles out of odds and ends; and the re-!
suit is poor.
It is well when making a fichu, a col
larette or a cravat, whatever you may
call it, to buy one in the shops first. Theii *
if you so desire you can obtain the cor- I
rect pattern, and the result will be very !
-satisfactory, or much more so than
though you had gone to work without a !
pattern.
Many of the most beautiful pieces cf ;
neckwear of spring are" made of three or !
four materials and are aiso of three or i
four colors.
While nothing looks so pretty next the
face as white, still there are the delicate
tints that are not to/.'C despised. This is
particularly true of rose, which is becom
ing to nearly every face by gas light.
VERY' ECONOMICAL.
As a matter of economy these neck
pieces cannot be valued too highly, for
they cover up and protect an old dress
and keep it from going to pieces altogeth-
THESE YOUNGSTERS ARE THE CHILDREN OF GEORGE JAY GOULD, AND THEY ARE E\CH WORTH A GREAT
DEAL OF MONEY. THEIR FATHER IS ONE OF THE RICHEST MEN IN THE WORLD HIS FOR
TUNE IS CONSTANTLY ACCUMULATING, AND BY THE TIME THEY GROW UP
EACH CHILD WILL BE A MULTI-MILLIONAIRE.
i^^^\ :
THREE CHILDREN WHO ARE WORTH MANY MILLIONS IN THEIR OWN RIGHT.
er. With a good set of collarettes a wom
an can prolong the life of her -old winter
dresses until Easter.
Thick materials are never pretty for
the neck. Even ribbon has its objection
unless worn with a white collar showing
above. The stocks are pretty because
they are finished with the stiff linen col
lar, which is becoming if worn with a
tailor-made dress. There are those who
claim that the linen collar is too harsh a
frame for a woman's face, but it must be
admitted that nothing gives quite so neat
a finish.
Plaids are to be worn this spring made
up into stocks and all the new silks will be
treated in this way. Stripes and checks
are so very becoming that a woman does
not easily give them up, and they are to
be impressed into neck service for spring.
>.ew York women have a fancy for
wearing neckwear in great variety. They
do not confine themselves to one style. In
the morning it is a cravat with long ends,
and in the evening a big embroidered bow
tied under the chin.
Every kind of thii gauzy material is
used, sometimes combined with ribbon
and again just a wide satin ribbon is used.
Pale blue, not a turquoise, but just the
delicate "baby blue," is liked best. It is
dressy and not so conspicuous as the gera
nium pink and carnation or automobile
red. The latter is a "new shade," and is
combined with ruchings of black or white
chiffon with jet embroidery on the long
end.
ALL KINDS OF MATERIALS.
\ Very often the satin ribbons are tied
around a linen collar with the little turn
ed-over edges. One of these was worn
last week by a woman dressed in velvet,
but the effect was chic instead of being
out of place.
Her cravat was of light blue satin rib
bon, tied so that the loops were only three
inches wide, but the longer ends were
made to'appear longer by a very full ruffle
of deep Mechlin lace which fell waist
length over the black velvet jacket.
Plaided taffeta ribbon is edged with nar
row black lace or chiffon. The ribbon is
three inches wide. This simply contrived
affair is quite stunning.
For the house many little cravats of
chiffon, tulle or net are most userul in
freshening up the winter gowns. A very
odd one was rather like a lour-in-haud of
creped mousseline. The stock was of tiny
pint's of the mousseline, and through tlie
knOt at the throat was caught a wide
flaring bow of the same material. Very
unusual was a stock of violet velvet, cut
high up around the ear,s and edged 'with
white chiffon ruchings, eaugnt by a circu
lar buckle of brilliants. In front was a
large soft bow of white chiffon.
For a dinner or theatre waist, which
has been worn several times, nothing is
more effective than a bow and blouse of
white tulle with black ehantillv lace ap
pliqued. A clever girl can easily copy this
design or introduce any fine lace beading
in lattice design or bayadere stripes. Boas
are quite passe now and the short-looped,
long-ended cravat is fashion's favorite.
MARY GOODWIN HUBBELL.
THE ST. PAUL- GLOBE SUNDAY FEBRUARY 26, 1899.
A LITTLE LINING TALK.
A dress that is well lined is well
! made.
There are just two kinds of lining—
i silk and not silk.
Cheap silk is the worst lining there is.
j It will hold its shape for a few weeks
and then it wil! sag and get slimpsy.
It will rustle while the new gloss is on
it, then it will crack and be a constant
annoyance.
It takes nine yards to line a skirt,
flood silk is the best lining there is.
I Taffeta is the best silk for lining. Taf
feta costs 85 cents to $1 a yard. It takes
about nine yards to line a skirt. It makes
a skirt hang well, and it rustles beauti
fully.
Next to good silk the best skirt lining
is rustleline. It is a new kind of perca
line. It is durable and it keeps its shape.
There are other silk substitutes just as
good. It is so stiff that it does not need
haircloth as an assistant. It rustles very
I well. It is 28 cents a yard and six yards
| of it will line a skirt of average length.
* Percaline is a good, serviceable lining. It
is soft and pliable and it will not crack
or pull out of shape. It comes in all
colors. It does not rustle. It is to be
had at 15 cents a yard.
Moreen is a good winter lining. It
is heavy and reasonably stiff, and it is
sold at 29 cents a yard. French dress
makers are giving up the use of silk for
a bodice lining. They say silk will not
stretch or mould itself to the figure as
it should do to be a good waist lining.
Good cambric or sateen makes the best
waist lining. Very pretty lining cambrics
come in figured colors now. They cost
from 12 to 30 cents a yard.
Ribbon is not used for binding* seams
this winter. Galloon is a good binding
for seams. It is a cross between tape
and ribbon and it costs a cent a yard.
Skirt bindings edge a skirt. Velveteen
waterproof binding is durable and con
venient.
"DON'TS" FOR MOTHERS.
An infant should be given no food con
taining starch until it cuts its teeth.
Starchy foods include biscuits, coTn flour,
j tapico, sago, rice, potato, etc. An infant
cannot digest any of these until its teeth
are cut.
Violent noises ' and rough shakings or
tossings are hurtful to a baby, and should
be avoided as much as possible.
Infants should never be put in a sit
ting posture until they are at least 3
months' old, when they will probably sit
up of their own accord. They should be
carried flat in the nurse's arms, as if the
little back is at all curved it may lead
to curvature of the spine or chest disease.
Until children are li or 7 years old they
should have twelve hours' sleep every
night. In addition to this a nap for two
hours, either in the morning or afternoon,
especially in hot weather, will do a great
deal toward keeping them brigßt and well.
A BEAUTY TALK BY
I - LILLIAN RUSSELL.
She Tells Our Fair Readers How They Can
Defy Sunburn, Wind and Damp Weather
and fciives Her Own Recipes,
~ —
I know tbat some or my readers will i
say that to be pretty you must be born I
pretty, but I do not think so.
To be sure the matter of features, and
general contour aire decided when one '•
grows up— but besides the features, and i
the shape of the face, there is a great deal
upon which beauty depends,.
I will say lhat 1 havo seen some very '
pretty women with not a regular feature;
I have been other women who were ex
tremely ugly, almost repulsive, yet whose I
features were as regular as that of Helen I
of Troy.
If Paris were here to-day. with the
apple, he would award it to the woman
not with correct features, but who had a
good complexion: whose teeth were white!
and even: whose eyes were shaded by 1
those mystic veils which record and hide :
their mystic feelings; whose hair was !
glossy and beautiful; whose neck was
Shapely and graceful; whose ease wast
that ol a queen. These can all be obtain
eo, and it is unnecessary to be added they
are never born with a person— they must
be acquired. ■
P -iH? f „ COl "" Ht n a ! 1 Wi " admit - f one hundred
St-!,'!, aU to BTOW U1) t0 womanhood,
atl with the same care— some would turn l
out pretty and some would be ugly Th-.t I
is natural. But beauty specialists will tell '
J.ou and well groomed women will admit, !
is ,t U ,Vi- B,y ***£. C0Ul ? have bee » made
as attractive as the pretty ones.
I make no claim to beauty myself and
talfcw h ??f itate " bo -. lt writing a beauty
talk— but my profession is such that:
™?°f n attractiveness 1 could not sue- :
ceea-and as attractiveness is the secret ;
of success in all businesses, and as all
women want to be attractive. I make'boldl
to write this little talk upon attractive
ness, which word I will substitute for that :
of beauty.
FOR SUNBURN.
If I am called out on a hot summer
nay, or it I voluntarily go out for a walk
or ride, I find that my skin suffers as all '
skins will: my face reddens and burns,
and the end of my nose— l must admit it
—gets provokingly crimson. '
Wlic-n [ return 1 take measures to pre- ;
vent permanent disfigurement, such as too
many women often carry with them as a
banner of summer time. As soon as l'
reach mv room I anoint my face witfl ;< I
cold cream, containing such ingredients
as are warranted to remove redness
There are many such. I generally buy
mine, although there are many harmless
ones that can be made at home. The
FANCY NECK PIECES MADE OF TULLE AND OTHER THIN GOODS ARE
TIED UNDER THE CHIN IN A BIG BOW WITH ENDS THAT HANG
FAR -R'FH.nw TT4TT*. watbt T/rNrTr**
• *>„.... <^>»"" l/
THE WAY TO DRESS UP AN OLD WAIST
creams that are_purchased are rather ex
pensive, though in the long run they
are cheap, because they are so efficacious,
and because so very little is needed at a
time.
The woman who doeg not want to pay
a dollar for a pot of cream can make a
very nice cold cream in her own kitchen.
Let her buy two pounds of mutton fat. If
she will cut this in small pieces and "try
it out", on the, stove she will obtain a
teacup of nice clear fat, which she must
strain through a piece of cheesecloth.
When this cools it gets hard and white
and is an excellent -clear fat. After it
has cooled and become hardened let her
melt it up again and strain it a second
time. Now take and add a teaspoonful of
very good essence of perfume and, if she
desires to have a very soft cream, half a
cup of vaseline. Stir all together and
pour in the cold cream jars to harden.
It will become the consistency of thick
cream and can be easily applied with the
fingers.
The dear old ladies of Lafayette's day,
when the good general was the beau of
American society, used to prepare cold
cream jars by emptying egg shells and
scenting them with perfume. The shells
had a little opening in one end. and the
other was slightly broken to make them
stand, a la Columbus.
COLD CREAM.
There is another cold cream which is
very good, and has white vaseline as a
basis. This, like the other, must be melt
ed and perfumed. It is then allowed to
cool and placed in jars. This makes a
very soft cream, which is used for very
tender sunburn. For chapped hands and
lips I would advise a very different treat
ment, although all cream has fat as a bas
is. This can be made by securing mutton
tallow. Be careful again that the mutton
is pure and the fat nicely strained. Taka
half a cup of tallow and into it pour a
teaspoonful of camphor. Stir well and
pour into an earthen jar; it will become
very firm. Now cut it and wrap each of
the pieces in silver foil. Rub it on the
backs of the hands or lips.
Very obstinate hands can be treated ,
with home-made soap. Take castile soap
and melt it. It will take a long time be
fore it becomes a liquid. But as soon aa
there are no lumps, stir in the soap half a
cup of powdered oatmeal. Half a cup of
oatmeal to a pound of soap, weighed be
fore it is melted, is a good proportion.
Add a few drops of cologne and form into
a cake which can be done as soon as the
soap begins to harden— place the cakee in
SOME BROILING DOFTS.
Don't broU over a fire if you can broil
under it.
Don't try to broil over a low fire.
Don't put coal on the fire just before
you have to use the gridiron.
Don't let the fat that drips from the
steak or chops catch fire. —
a dry spot and In two weeks you can begin
to use them.
The ordinary toilet soap can be made
into aA'ery good article by the addition
o-f oatmeal or Indian meal. This gives a
sort of tooth to the soap which is very
cleansing-.
For the hair there are various things
advertised. A frequent recipe tor perfum
ing the hair being- a sachet-cap, which is
a little night-cap lined with silk and filled
with "(achat powder. But i do not think
this is very beneficial to the hair. The
hair requires light and air and this cannot
be secured in such a cap*:
THE HAIR.
I would advise keeping the hair well
shampooed and nicely brushed; and this,
with careful hair dressing, is all that is
really required. A drop of perfume on the
temples will give a scent to the looks.
I know that Viennese ladies dry the
hair thoroughly and sachet it by means of
the scented cap, but 1 am of the opinion
■that a more satisfactory result is obtained
by the shampooing and brushing.
The hair, as long as It is nicely dress
ed, is beautiful and attractive. To per
fume it is idle.
I have been asked in many private let
ters written me by women who long for
beauty if 1 ever wash my lace. One writ
er said pathetically: "1 have tried to go
without water, but my face feels-- sticky
and dasagreeable all day. Tell me how
you manage not to wash your face." This
letter would be funny were it not pathet
ic. The poor woman who could not get
comfortable without washing her face has
my heartfelt sympathy— although I never
tried the experiment of doing without
water. They say the adorable Patti has
not washed ber face in ten years, but I
-am inclined to think the lovely Patti
would tell a different story.
The pores of the face must be kept
open and pure, like the rest of the body,
or tbe skin will get dark and cloudy.
It is some years since the beauties of
the world relied on enamel and years be
fore they will go back to it. No, my dear
madam, wash your face; keep your sys
tem pure; use as few cosmetics as possi
ble; partake of good food, and you will
have a good skin. This I verily believe.
A word about the matter of food. Do
not economize in your eating. I was told
the other day that women shoppers, espe
cially of the better class, will do a whole
day of shopping in the stores without par
taking of a sufficient meal. This should
never be done. Nothing destroys the com-
plexion like an empty stomach. It is like
running an engine without fuel— all parts
suffer. Keep your system well nourished.
If you are inclined to fat you can diet,
but do not economize in your food. Do
not take pork and beans, corn beef and
cabbage, because they are cheap. Let
economy show in other ways, for the
pretty women never lived who did not
eat well.
Again about exercising. I do not be
lieve in Herculean efforts nor in the
swinging of dumb bells; but if you can
find a pleasant exercise, like cycling, by
all means practise it.
The Princess of Wales has a station
ary bicycle, in her boudoir upon which
she rides on rainy days. It is suspended
by ropes from the ceiling, and is mounted
on a platform in such a way that the
wheels run freely; the chain is tightened
so as to make pedalling equal to that on
an ordinary road. If you have the means
to do this, by all means set up a bicycle.
Late hours never have, and never will,
hurt a woman's looks, provided she gets
her necessary rest. "Early to bed and
early to rise" is one of those old sayings
which should die out before it is" drilled
into another generation. Country people
go to bed early and get up early, yet I
fail to see that they are any the
"healthier, wealthier, or wiser" than city
people who go to bed late and get up late.
If you secure your nine hours of sleep you
will have all you need. Eight hours will
do, but seven is not enough. After a hard
night" s work I can sleep from 2 in the
morning until noon, which gives me ten
hours, and if I am not playing I can rest
in the afternoon. If you have an occu
pation, and in these days most all women
have, be sure you get your sleep and you
can work on and look pretty year after
year.
At what age a woman should lose her
beauty I am not prepared to say, I am
observing. I have seen Patti go from the
forty mark in the fifty-sixth year and
she is still beautiful. Mrs. Hicks-Lord at
sixty was lovely. The Princess of Wales
is long since a grandmother yet she, too,
is pretty. So I am inclined to think that
beauty is beauty and has nothing to do
with age. Unkempt beauty, on the other
hand, is like the flower which not being
preserved withers at the end of its little
day, its bloom is short. So with the nat
ural bloom of youth; it lasts only through
youth. But the colors preserved will en
dure, and the bright eyes, the red cheeks
and the glossy hair can be bright and red
and glossy at 60— at least, I have seen
them so.
Don't leave the steak or chops on the
stove if you have to quit the kitchen.
Don't vleave the kitchen door open
when you are broiling meat.
Don't take the tops off the stove to
broil unless you are willing to cool your
ovens.
Don't forget that it is better to broil
a steak on a hot, dry frying pan than
over a poor fire.
■i
A PICTURE HAT POR LENT.
LONG BOWS OF WHITE SILK, WITH ENDS OF FINE LACE.
A WOMAN BROKER
JUONDON.
She Has Gone to Work to Make
"Millions and Millions" for
the Building of Hospitals.
Lady Francis Cook, or Tennessee—
Tennie C— Claflin, as she is known in
this country, has again set all London
talking about her.
The sign Lady Cook & Co., brokers,
adorns London's Wall street, and her
ladyship goes to her office every day at
1 and remains till 4. directing her brokers.
A representative of this newspaper
called to see Lady Cook the other day,
and had- a very pleasant conversation
with her.
"I am not in the business for fun, by
any means," said Lady Cook, laughingly,
when asked why she had gone into
stocks. "I am here to make money—mill
ions and millions.
"My husband,' continued Lady Cook,
is one of the richest men in England,
as you know, and people naturally won
der why I have gone into business. Well,
I will tell them. It is to make money
for charitable enterprises—specially one!
"I am greatly interested in the build
ing of hospitals for women— women for
whom I am working— and I am going
to make a whole lot of money so that
I can establish these hospitals all over
the world. My husband, Sir Francis
Cook, is thoroughly in sympathy with
me, and has placed his entire fortune at
my disposal.
"Sir Francis, as you know, is S2 years
old, while I am less than 50, but we are
muth devoted to each other, and he is
anxious to have me continue my work."
Tennessee Claflin, with her sister, Vic
toria Woodhull, will be remembered as
the two sisters who went into Wall street
years ago. They made money, and sub
sequently went to London, where Vic
toria Woodhull married the late John
Biddulph Martin, a rich banker, and
Miss Claflin married Sir Francis Cook.
Mrs. Woodhull was at the time a widow.
Lady Cook is very popular, and, when
she cares for it, goes in the best society.
INK STAINS.
Even the busiest woman cannot be
pardoned for going to dinner with ink
stained fingers. A slice of lemon or a bit
of pumice stone will remove all sugges
tions of ink. Unless the stain is under
neath the nail, the pumice is to be pre
ferred as undiluted lemon juice is apt
to harden the citicle of the nails.
TENNESSEE CLAFLIN (LADY COOK), THE AMERICAN WOMAN WHO HA3
GONE INTO THE WALL STREET OF LONDON TO MAKE
MILLIONS AND MILLIONS.
£*** *!—***■**-■■ "■*— ' — "-" — mrl—iiii M.im «». m M— l»
LADY COOK, OF LADY COOK & CO., BROKERS.
THE HAPPY
GOOLDCHILDREN.
They Revel in the Things That
Every Child Enjoys, and Live
Like Princes and Princesses.
The happiest children in New York
city or in New Jersey— for they are now at
Lakewood— are the little ones of George
Gould.
No children of the Four Hundred have
, a better time than they, for their father
and mother go upon the principle that
children should be brought up healthy,
sportive creatures, and they provide them
with every sort of outdoor amusement.
At Lakewood the Gould children have
a large building which is devoted to sports
of all kinds. It is an indoor gymnasium,
with tennis court and croquet ground. It
is so large that if they were inclined they
could turn it into golf links.
In the summer these children live at
Seabright, where their father is presi
dent of the Golf Association, and where
they have a magnificent villa overlooking
the Shrewsbury river. Hot days they
go yachting, and if the weather is very
warm their father takes them on a cruise.
A year ago they went to Alaska in Au
gust.
These children have every sort of pet.
The elder boy, Kingdon, exhibited his pet
pony at the New York Horse Show this
year and took a prize. His younger
brother, Jay, had prize dogs at the Dog
Show.
There are five of the Gould children.
The. three oldest are Kingdon, Jay and
Marjorie. Then comes George, jr., and
Vivian, who are mere babies. These chil
dren are very democratic youngsters, for
they know no better, not having yet
learned the value of wealth. Little Jay,
the one who is seated, has a fine temper
of his own, and soundly rated a groom at
the Horse Show for riding a pony in a
clumsy way.
Their father looks after their worldly
interests remarkably well, and, it is said,
sets aside a certain amount of stock each
year for each individual child.
TOOTHACHE NO EXCUSE.
Toothache will no longer be accept
ed by the Geneva, Switzerland, Postoffice
as an excuse for the absence of em
ployees. The superintendent has issued
a circular directing them to have their
teeth extracted rather than have tha
service suffer.