The Saint Paul globe., August 25, 1901, Page 17, Image 19

About The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905

Image provided by: Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

                
(WWfcffSi sim W( iM AM S PA fir ri¥ iSK^Rilli
PARIS FASHION LETTER
PARIS, Aug 10.-Everyone is comment
liir upon the Rood sensi exercised by
Ik! me. Terry in the selection of the trous
seau of her i aughter, who has .r^st mar.
rled the brother of Count Bonl de Castel
lane. Following the French fa.«*iion, only
a limited number of handsome costumes
were chosen, while quantities of hand
some lace a:id webs of rare fabrics were
ordered to Vie made up at the brides
pleasure. In doing this the bride's mother
followed the sensible and thrifty exam
ple of the French noblesse rather than
that of the millionaire class to which she
belongs. M<>?\. brides are in a few months
heartily weary of their gowns, which
have fallen behind the fashion long be
fore they have seen much servi
I am told that the young bride looked
charming in a gown of white satin, al
most hidden by the splendid veil of Point
d'Alencou, and that fashionable society
crowded the church. The Casiellan.es,
radiant and well dressed, were the center
of Interest. It was noticed that the
Coui; Jeanne de Castellane was not
present at the church. She was th-? rich
wiiicw of the Prince de Fuv.st-^nl-erg when
Fh«* married one of Count Bom 3 brothers.
The ek!. rly Marquise de Castel'.ane,
mother of the bridegroom, looked partic
ularly handsome in pearl-gray satin,
trimmed with Mechlin lace, while Coun
tess Bonl de Castellane, who was Mies
Anna Gould, the American heiress, was
attired in a gown of rose-coior-3d gauze
with Honiton lace over white satin.
1 should not be at all surprised If we
hud a revival of the Medici ruffs. Ugly
as they look In the old portraits, there is
no doubt that the artiste skill of on.? of
the great master dressmakers coull do
Wonders in adapting them to the faces
and figures of modern belles. Indeed, I
have recently seen an example of this in
a ruff of white tulle which almost cover?d
the broad coat collar of lace. This col
lar, by the way, was the main feature of
a very o.'.d summer wrap of cherry-color
ed cloth, trimmed with rose-figured
foulard. The. jacket was of the length
described as "three-quarters," and had
little claim to symmetry, since It flap
ped carelessly about the figure.
One sees many charming gowns on the
pleasant. days when .excursionists throng
Versailles ana Fontainebleau. for it is a
mistake' to imagine that only the rich
and great of Paris are well gowned.
Charminlg actresses and foreign ladies of
fashion, temporarily in the city, spend
the afternoons very often among the
shady avenues of these suburban re
sorts. .-*<; "*
Simplicity characterizes the greatest
number of the costumes, although all the
; :i full <ln-ss toilet was sus
gested by many of the elegant affairs.
Onv that might be worn to a dance as
suitably as to the perk was a black
mousseline >i<- sole rayed with black
velvet ribbons and laid over transparent
white. Incrustations of chantilly lace
trimmed the flounce upon the skirt v.nd
applications of the chantilly appeared
upon the blouse which had its little
bolt ro and emp!ecemen>t of white.
The use of rayed applications of black
■ Is very popular, f<>:\ while the
result upon short figures Is not always
happy, it is successful If used judicious
ly for figures of moderate height. In
etead of covering a gown with the
shaped bits of velvet, the most tasteful
effects are achieved with the use of only
a. few bands.
... Round waists are no more. The point
ed blouse gives a- longer line to the
bodice and is • therefore more graceful,
especially for short figures. Girdles and
(belts are made to accentuate the pointed
■waist 'front; and even when nothing else
Is worn a coil of silk or ribbon put on
at the, waist line extends the front in
appear. .„
Sho:t sleeves, such charming features
of summer frocks, have won sucn favor
that they will be Been even more fre
quently next year. The woman with the
Who desires to be attractive and looking.' She who does not lacks an
interest in herself that she should be ashamed of. Unless one's complexion
is faultless, unless it is free from disfiguring pimples, blackheads, moth
patches and all other similar facial blemishes so common ■to women, sho
cannot be attractive, no matter how beautiful her features may be. Without
a clear, spotless complextion, she cannot be and is not considered good looking
by an> one. The famous complexion specialists,
iPi^w Efl s.. :- ill i?
. m7B and 89.Fifiii.&VdRU9, NewYopk-'Gity,
Have just arranged with M.AHNHEIMER BROTHERS to show the Misses
Bell's celebrated Completion Tonic to the ladies of St. Paul and the •'ales
lady in Mannheiir.er's store will explain to every lady the marvelous effi
cacy of the Complexion Tonic and its remarkable tonic effect on a skin cov
ered -ah freckles, pimples, blackheads, moth patches redness, roughness or
oilincss of the skin, and wrinkles not "caused by facial expression. The Misses
Bell's COMPLK V rON TOXIC removes all these blemishes permanently and
bestows a complexion that Is beautiful to look upon. The Complexion
is not a cosmetic to hide and cover up the blemishes, but a colorless liquid
that- ha? a tonic effect upon, the pores of the skin, driving out the impuri
ties that clog up t.he pores and restoring the skin to the same delicate, vel
vety texture-it was in infancy. The price of the Complexion Tonic is $1.00
a bottle.
Superfluous flair on the Face, Heck or Arms
Can be removed permanently by the Misses Bell's new discovery KILL-ALL
HAIR, which removes this annoying and disfiguring blemish forever and
kills the root of the hair so that it will never return. In order that every
• lady in St. Paul may have an opportunity to teat the merits of the won
derful KILL-ALL-HATR. and see for herself its wonderful effect the sales
lady in MANNREIMBR BROS.' store at the toilet goods department will
give to every lady. FREE, a trial treatment of KILL-ALL-HAIR which you
can use yourself and notice its effect. For those ladies who live outside -of
St. Paul, and who are desirous of trying the wonderful "KILL-AIXr-H\IR"
Treatment, the Misses Bell will send a trial treatment free if you will 'send
two two-cent stamps to the Misses Bell, 7S and 80 Fifth Avenue, New York
Ask the saleslady in Mannheimer's to explain the merits of the Misses
Bell's Preparations to you, and isave her show you the Misses Bell's CAPIL
LA RENOVA, for restoring gray hair to its natural color; the Misses Bell's
HATR TONIC for removing dandruff and curing itching, scaly and diseased
scalps; the Misses Bell's SKIN FOOD, a daintily scented ointment for use
bevore retiring, and the Misses Bell's LAMB'S WOOL SOAP, for the bath
and toilet.
Don't forget to vialt the toilet goods department and ask to see the
Misses; Bell's Celebrated Toilet Preparations. »>.-:--^
\. Sixth and Robert Sts., St. Mian.
pretty arm is a gainer by thl3 abbrevia
tion of sleeve, and as even the btanchis
seuse fancies tfhat she has an arm which
a sculptor might like to model it will
be seen that there are no women who
have ugly arms—in their own opinion.
Most of the sleeves are so cleverly de
signed that the deficiencies of nature are
not glaringly displayed. One sleeve <x
hibits a fluff of chiffon or lace ruffles at
the elbow which falls almost to the
wrist, and other elbows are framed in
embroidery or some fanciful trimming
that keeps the arm well covered above.
Gloves either of silk or kid are donned
for outdoor service, and the graceful roll
of the mousquetaire over the scrawny
cffscii!!! - ~— iia& - '•'• A^i a*~V' 2> ==:"^.
wrist furnishes balm to the lean
woman's vanity.
A clever Frenchwoman once said to me,
"Not one woman in a hundred knows'
how to put on a veil." And in recently
looking over a number of well dressed
women I was compelled to agreo with
her. Veils have been mucih worn this
year, but how seldom were they put on
the tint in such a way as to add to its
effect! There Is a chic little twist to
the tying of the knot (or pinning, wh:eh
is, I consider, bettar. sinca. .It dpes aot
wrinkle the fabric so much) that is a dis
tinct gift. Of course, a great <leal of.
the charm of a veil.-.depends ipon Us
freshness. It cannot be safely worn mere
than half a dozen times. I am told that
Mrs. Langtry, who Is one of the best
THE ST. PAUL GLOBE, SUNDAY, AUGUST 28, lmix t
WOMAN'S PAGE
dressed women in the world, never thinks
of wearing her veils more than once. As
this is an extravagance few persons can
afford, let me make a suggestion. A
friend whose veils are always admirable
took me into her confidence. She has
half a dozen veils in stock, and wears
each one two or thre times. Then she
takes the soiled veil and pins it upon a
smooth board to extend all the wrinkles.
When the veil is secured upon the board
and is perfectly fiat, being held along the
edges by small tacks which she keeps for
that purpose, she rinses it thoroughly in
a large vessel filled with water, in which
a little ammonia has been dropped. If
she has no time for a serious washing,
the veil is held under-the hot wator fau
cet and then under the cold before being
put aside to dry. When it is taken down,
the material is not stretched out of
shape, as it would have been had she
washed it by hand. Moreover, it has ac
quired all the crispness of newness.
Thick silk veils cannot, of course, te
LATE SUMMER WALKING GOWNS NOW POPULAR IN PARIS.
treated in this way. It is always best
to submit them to the professional reno
vator.
In selecting a few veils for irfyself I
was impressed with the variety of pat
terns. There is the close meshed white
silk, with its big chenille dots. This is
the proper thing for yachting wear. Then
there is the veil overlaid with clusters
ot golf sticks, which no golfing girl is
content to be without. Besides these
are many odd patterns, patches of flow
ers and birds with outstretched wing#
being conspicuous. Covered with one
of these much decorated affairs, the
human face looks much like that of a
tattooed sailor. When the veil is worn
merely over the hat, it looks all right,
but when drawn over the countenance,
the effect is indescribably ugly.
The cloak wearing craze seems to ex
tend to every sort of outdoor costume.
The latest development of the fad is
the yachting cloak, a long affair reach
ing about to the knees and supplied with
a high collar to protect the back of the
head. The cloaks are made of fine cloth,
the collar faced with velvet widening
into revers. On a model shown last week
the buttons were large and of chased
saver. The cloak itself was a double af
fair, the upper or cape portion being
about three-quarters of the length of
the under section. Such a garment can
not be very comfortable on shipboard,
where the breeze blows everything about
in an annoying way, but it might be ap
proved for land use, where its length
would make it an excellent tHlng for
stormy winter days.
Speaking of cloaks recalls to mind the
TEENCH MODEL FOR LUNCHEON GOWN,
Of Mauve Taffeta Over Bodice and Skirt of Cluny Lace. Mauve Chiffon in the
Front of Bodice.
really handsome ralr.y day coat which
1 saw the other day. it was of dark
blue waterproof Berg e and covered the
gown entirely. The front was trimmed
with large buttons. Cuffs of velvet, a
deep collar and revers of the same and
the handsomely stitched patch pockets
gave the ornamental touches to the wrap.
It was silk lined, light, pretty and serv
iceable. —Catherine Talbot.
STYLES IX HAIRDUESSIXG.
Ni w that autumn is at hand the wise
n will begin to study her individual
if she contemplates making a
change in her style of hairdressing. The
:.as gone forth that the hair must
be dressed low on the naps of the
n< k. This will cause great grief to the
an with a round face and scant
locks, for she will feel that she has lost
one of her features when she is com-
pelled to do up her hair without her be
loved "rat."
A change in the syle of liatf dressing
need cause no anxiety to the woman who
is willing to study her face and iigure to
see how best she can adapt the prevailing
style to her own individuality. But the
woman who putsi herself into the hands
of any ordinary hairdresser and. sa_i rs,
"Well, I don't know what is becoming
to me; do up my hair whatever way you
think best," is in a fair way of making
a, fright of herself. She ought to make
a study of her whole figure, i?er sler.Uer
ness, her embonpoint, her stature, her
face, the shape of her head and her nose,
and discover which are her good points.
Every woman has at least ono or two
good features, and she ought to study
how to adapt prevailing styles to her own
advantage and not leave it to a hair
dresser to make women look like a lot of
sheep.
There are a few general rules that hold
good whatever the style. If the nose is
straight and continues the line of the
forehead without much depression, the
style of hairdressing should aim at sim
plicity. The hair should be worn low
and waved or rippled over the head. One
or two little curls may be effective fall-
ing on the nape of the neck. If the nose
is tiptilted and inclined to piquancy a
more fanciful style may be adopted, and
its characteristic should be grace. For
those with long noses, dignity should be
the quality and an imposing style with
plenty of ornaments and elaboration
should be sought.
If the forehead narrows above the
cheek bones fluff out the hair above and
to the right of the brow. If the forehead
is broad and the face narrow avoid any
style that increases the width of the
brow. The hair done low, about on &
line with the tops of the ears, with
plenty of ornament at the side, will help
to fill out the necessary width of the
face. A projecting forehead will not
bear any style that brings the hair for
ward, nor is it well to draw it back too
much, as either style discloses the de
fect. A receding: forehead requires the
hair to be brought forward. A few little
soft curls will soften any marked defect
in the forehead, but if a woman has a
fine brow let her never disguise it, no
matter what the prevailing mode.
If the head is flat on top arrange the
hair high in coils or plaits, or turned
over a cushion of hair, for of all ugly
effects a flat surface on a woman's head
is the ugliest. If her hair is scanty use
pads of hair, for while too great a use
of artificial hair is to be regretted, it is
not wrong for a woman to restore iier
crown of glory. And when one considers
that in Paris alone over 100,000 pounds
of human hair is coasumed annually she
need, not fear that ahe is the only one
who is borrowing beauty. Of course, the
woman who has plenty of "nair of her
own, and who wears immense quantities
of false hair through a perverted taste,
is as bad a>s a woman who would wear
a set of false teeth along with her o-wn
two good Bets.
Long face 3 require to have tine rnalr
simply parted and arranged on the back
of the head about on a level wtth the
ears. If the face is round the hair
should be drawn to the top of the head
whatever the prevailing custom, as
dressing the hair high gives length to
the face, and be sure that the curve of
the coil is visible above the head from
the front. Never spread it out flat, for
a flat head effect is not pretty on any
body.
IHB LADY, THE DOG A.\D CABBY.
A little wanderer, bruised and sore, was
cuddled up in the rooms of the Society
for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
one night last week. His thin, starved
body showed the signs of ill-treatment
and long abuse, but there was an ex
pression in his eyes that suggested a
knowledge that, for once at least, he had
found true human sympathy. And with
his experience there came to light the
fact that appreciation of a kindness may
be found sometimes when and where it t 3
loast expected.
It was shortly after 3 o'clock in the
afternoon when two women started to
leave the University Settlement in El
dridge street. One of these, well known
socially and much interested in philan
thropic work, had been to the settlement
to visit friends engaged there. Beth were
faulfessly gowned. As they stepped from
the doorway they heard a loud yelping,
together with the shrieks and laughter
of small boys.
On the sidewalk half a dozen gamins
were amusing themselves at the expense
of a homeless yellow puppy. Th.? dog
was being pulled about and mauled and
one of the »flj started to hold him up by
the ears.
"Git on to de way he dances," ex
claimed the boy, delightedly, pointing at
the squirming cur.
Quick as a flash the society woman
rushed down the steps, picked up the
puppy, and despite the mud that clung to
him, pressed him closely in her aims.
The boys pushed forward and tried to re
gain possession, hut she quickly to the
top step again, and was able to hold them
at bay until, in answer to her ring at the
bell, one of the settlement workers open
ed the door and gave her shelter in the
house.
Say, dats my iog," yelled a boy as
the door eieswa. "I'm goln' to call a
'ocp' or. you."
Of course no attention was paid to the
threat. A cab was telephoned for, and
in it the dog and its fair rescuer drove
to the office of the Society for the Pre
vention of Cruelty to Animals. The su
perintendent having heard the story,
readily agreed to take charge of the ani
mal.
"You'll see that he is well taken care
of?" asked the lady, and added, as sha
pointed to her soiled gown. "You see,
I'm very much interested in that little
fellow."
Assured that the dog should he well
treated, she turned to the cabby, and tak
ing out her purse, asked him how much
she owed him.
"Not a cent," said the Jehu, "not a
cent. Say, if everybody in New York was
like you, what a fine place this would
be!"
"But I want to pay you. You must
take this." For answer "cabby" crack
ed his whip, the" hor3e started up the
street, and the woman was left standing
with the 1 ill in her outstretched hand.
If one touch does not make the whole
world kin, several persons who witnessed
the closing: of this incident are certain
that It is not without its effect even on
the hard shell of a New York cabman.—
New York Times.
A WHITE HOUSE INCIDENT.
A New York woman, who spent a few
weeks in Washington just before the
president started on the trip which re
sultod so disastrously for his wife, te'.ls
a little story which illustrates Mr 3. .Mo-
Kinley's sweet ways with children. One
morning the New Yorker went out with
a f-iend to look at the White house.
WMle they were there they heard that
Mrs. McKinley was soon to take her daily
drive, and decided to wait and see her.
Quite a little crowd of people were ther»
MiftneitaDa cinD f ji
Miane<ipoliß, mm. |¥ lii j| mm
No. member of. this popular club is '• - t?P/>- '
held in higher esteem than its honored *yfj ,' -*' . • - ->"s*v^gS^-y^/
president." She is an untiring worker s£f\.
and foremost in every movement that has /jsbv, V 41%- '_^^^^^^S^y''--jf
for its object the advancement of the (fir^\^'^^^^^^^^^i^/ " ' ''^y /
The Minnehaha is one of the largest /^Ei)L i- '■' ? ' ''""" '' ' /[ >
women's clubs in Minneapolis, and its isf/^3§r^ Mi Z ?■■£'/' \ s-*
success is largely due to Miss Briggs' i '.S V>
splendid executive ability, popularity re§iißlAr^g3sKt->^ ' '^
and tact. An attack of Eczema greatly interfered at one time with her duties in
connection with the club; her face and hands were terribly inflamed and swollen
while the itching and burning was simply terrific. She applied lotions, salves'
washes and powders without number, but received very little relief from any of
these, and the disease threatened to permanently ruin her skin, but she found a
cure, as her letter shows. S. S. S., the great vegetable purifier and tonic, is the
I suffered with Eczema on the hands and °," ly. reme(l that reaches and
face for ever a year. It was not only annoy- eliminates from the blood the
ing: and painful, but very unsightly, and I poisonous acids that cause
disliked to go out in the Btreot. I tried at blackheads and blotches
least a dozen soaps and salvos and became eczema, tetter and all kindred
very much discouraged until I read in the diseases The nrot- ,t, i ,"
papers of the cures performed through the "1 - + llle protracted use
use of S. S. S. I had little faith in it at first fMy e^riuil treatment inter
but determined to give it a month's fair fer. es with the free action of the
trial, at least. lam pleased to state that I skin, and this delicate covering
soon noticed a slig-ht improvement; sufficient becomes rough and discolored
«?» v,«£? me tO ie? p ifc up- After the usa of ljumPy. hard and red, the means
2r£°2&£j. BT kh?s Ww aaVa c0 BTnTI -p^for relief ™h
have never had any trouble sTncl more dangerous and damaging
MISS GENEVA BKIGGS than the dlse™e.
216 3. Seventh St. Minneapolis/Minn S- S- S- P llrifi es and enriches
for the same purpose, and among them
was a well-dressed woman with a child,
a manly little chap about four y<ar.s old,
■with an attractive face framed in light
golden curls. Presently Mrs. McKinley
came out. She bowed very graciously
to the crowd several times and then
started for her carriage. Suddenly she
caught sight of the little boy and w. Nt
back to whPi'p ho stood. She stopped,
bent down, and began to talk to him. The
New Yprk woman was fortunate enough
to hear a part of the conversation.
"1 know who yon an ," the little boy
said, and, meeting her smile, he went
on, "you're the president's wlf< ."
"And who are you?" said Mrs. Mc-
Kinley.
"My name's Arthur," answered the
boy, "I want to be president too, some
day."
• That's right, Arthur." said Mrs. Mc-
Kinley, "littler boys than you hay?
grown up to be presidents. Mr. McKin
ley was even littler than you are once "
.The the first lady of the land gave lit
tle Arthur a warm kiss, bade him good
by, and went on to her carriage.—New
York Times.
A JAPANESE BOADICEVA.
Seventeen centuries ago the Japanese
Emperor Chuai -was playing his lute in
the presence of his wife and prime min
ister. Whether ori account of the mualo
or from some other cause the empress
became Inspired wfth a divine afflatus and
began to utter the thoughts put into her
mind *>y the deity. "There Is a land to
the westward"* stle exclaimed, "and In
that land, an abundance of treasure, gold
and silver, dazzling to look upon. Thl3
land I will now bestow upon you."
The emperor pushed away hia lute. "If
you go up to a high place and look to
ward the west," said he, "th^re Is no
land to be seen, but only the g~eat
waters. They are lying spirits who have
spoken to you."
Then the god was filled with ang^r,
and again he moved the empress to
prophesy. "You are not fit," she said,
"to rule this empire. Go the one road."
Uut the prime minister trembled when
he heard these words, and said to hi.s
master: "I am troubled, my heavenly
sovereign, by this terrible message. Con
tinue, I pray, to play the august lute."
The Emperor Chuai commenced to play
softly; gradually the sound died away;
all was still. The-y held a light to his
face and saw that he was dead. But
the empress put herself at the head of
her fleet, invaded the land of gold and
silver with her warriors and soon made
the three kingdoms of Corea tributary
to Japan.
These things happened, we are told, In
the year 201 A. D., and the story of the
valiant empress is as familiar to a Japa-
MORNING DRESS
/ \\
Of Gray and White Linen. Small White Linen Buttons.
17
nese as Is that of Boadlcea to our~ v e .s.
-Nineteenth Century.
DAINTY GOWNS.
Paris is pleading her hardest for th
general adoption of white frocks and i.s
persuading us to the direct extrava
wdth mousseHnes, and
linons, all exquisitely embellished with
di licate incrustations of I ■ . ; f_
f. ctivfl open w..rk broderie
The lace she frequently i
of quite a deep, warm tint and is in
clined to be very impressive in her us*-
Of juiiii. d or, as the sli'ips
call these in that grandiloq
which is all their own, painted ribbons.
The very cleverest bows are twisted un
and stitched Hut at the one edge, while
the ends either drape in effective fes
'ii or aiv carried up to th>
waist, when the scheme is, perchance,
continued on tho corsage, finally ter
minating' in a huw and long ends be
tween the shoulders.
A sash, or rather the arran^incnt of
a sash, that is infinitely telling allied
to a fichu Is started from the back
crossed high in front and carried Up
betwei n the shoulders at the back,
where it serves, in addition to Us deco
rative duties, to hold the corner of the
fichu in place, the front of the latter
tucking itself ay.ay in pretty, pouching
fashion btne-ath the crossed ribbon.
But the most bewilderingly wondar
ful trimming is tha* brought about by
means of a large insertion whicU 13 ap
plied to numberless serpentine, undu
lating and Intricate scroll di-.-jlgna on
veilings and crepe de chine, outlined
by the tiniest black ribbon velvet or an
equally tiny ruche of chiffon. Chiefly
is It the time one pays for in securing
auch a consummation. Wherefore, giv
en the time, does not the notion Inspire
the aspiring home dressmaker?
Tv II i« Doaa.
The reign of the ruffle has not quit,
followed the programme laid down by t l i<
manufacturers, as at all smart func
bazaars, church parades and the
noon park the huge rutflo of simple blacl
or white tulle is largely in cvi .
the elaborate confections, bristling with
bows and laces and ribbons, ai •
in the minority.
Tulle is, however, so ethereal that th
simple ruffle will Inevitably be costly li
the long run, and, once soiled, or it
crtspness gone, it is a mere rag, whi!
the expensive ruffle may acquire new llf
at the hands of the chemical cl<
The long tails are most awkward foi
rlage wear, and this probably accoun*
for so many ruffles having merely bow
or ribbon ends.