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The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, May 25, 1902, Image 19

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059523/1902-05-25/ed-1/seq-19/

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IN spite of the fact that cold winds
are still blowing, the ambitious and
beauty loving woman insists on tell
ing us that summer la here. Sho
rushes the season, this pretty creat
ure, and in May she shows us June, and
in June she forces July and August upon
us. Anything for a change is her motto
in Oress, and no matter how much th«
change may cost her in tune, in money
and in personal wear and tear she must
have it.
There is a legend that no woman is
ever happy until she has worn a white
cress. Through the whole of the gentle
spring she awaits the day when the can
Put it on; anil when, in the first b'.ush
of flowering sumrm r, she actually^does
don it and sallii:; forth, lur joy is "com
A white dress, the perfectly smart pe
destrian one, consists of a skirt of white
duck or drill, and a white .shirtwaist. It
is quite-swill t<> wear a hat crowned with
colored flowers with this, and tan gloves.
This is th< white outing girl; and if she
prefers a pale pinK waist, or a light blue
one of cheviot, cotton or heavy lawn, it
takes nothing away from her smartness.
The white skill with the colored bhirt
■will be worn not a little this summer;
and it is pleasant to learn that the very
pretty and always much admired Mi3.s
Pauline Astor wears such a skirt, with a_
„' '"' " '"''^^"^'^TVtJ -—- . ". ■ .1 ■ —~— ~i?C
Gown cf white dotted net. Waist and shirt with broad tucks. Yoke of wh ite jewel applique. The waist fastens to
one side with velvet ribbon rosette and a jabot of net and black insertion. Bands of applique encircle the entiro
skirt. Girdle of black ribbon velvet.
colored waist. This is her rig for after
noons at Cliveden, that country estate
upon the Thames, where the garden par
ties aic given to the royal princesses,
and where smart gowns are Been.
And, by the way, how stupid it is for
young people In London now. What with
the king coming out against "the young
girl in society;" what with the daughters
of the king all grown up and married,
or In a hopeless su.ti' of umnarriedness;
what with the little ones of the AVales
family too small to be out of the nursery;
//i iff :: - 3SS^^HpJr' 9H^^^^^B9n^^% V
Blue etamine with black moire bands. The tucked blouse has a persian vest
iwid three straps on the shoulder caught with buttons.
and no young princesses anywhere avail
able, it is indeed a season when the
young girl in London can pity herself
Yet she manages to have a good time.
Miss Astor wears a white suit, when in
London, in etamine. Ktamine is such a
very fashionable goods this year, and Is
capable of such a variety of treatment.
If you want it made up with ruffles and
lace, as a summer dress, then all right.
There are plenty of models. But it Is so
much smarter to tailor it.
A tailored etamine was made upon the
long sheath lines just as plain as can
be. Eut there were panels of stitched
namine put on down each side of the
skirt Each four inches wide, each stitch
ed along the edge, each used as a wido
stripping. The stuff was doubled so that
it appeared more like a panel of cloth,
solid, than one of open texture.
There is a white zibiline, very light in
weight, but one must not invest in it un
less one has many gowns. These white
cloth dresses are apt to prove a snare
for the girl who must b;» economical.
They soon soil, and when soiled they
arc soon gone completely.
There are two classed of women who
look very well in white. One is the big
fat woman, with plenty of figure. This
woman finds in white a merciful friend,
softening her outlines, and making her
appear graceful. The other woman is
the very small woman, she whom one
caUs petite. White givts her height and
dignity, and assists her in the matter
of a "presence." It also gives her that
fairy-like look which is the privilege of
the small woman.
White, since it is the color of summer,
is the one to be advised to all who
would dress we-'.l. There is something
about it which makes it very appropri
ate, and one does not wonder that public
women, like Mrs. Roosevelt and the
women of the cabinet, chese white in
preference to yellow or green or even tur
quoise blue.
Mrs Roosevelt is an economical dresser.
Her famous pronunciamento in favor of
dressing en $300 a year, started an inter
national controversy. She chooses the
pure color because it is becoming and be
cause it is cheap. No woman not the
wife of a millionaire can neglect matters
of economy if she have small pairs of
shoes to buy and as many complete sum
mer outfits. To the economical woman,
therefore, a word—wear white.
In selecting there are many pretty and
new fabrics from which to choose. The
white cotton goods open up a great f\ e \^
an;l the lace stripes, the linen stripes, the
■satin stripes, and the beautiful little
stamped white figures, all make variety.
The white crepe goods will always be
liked because they make up so dressily.
To trim them there are very neat hem
ptitohinars that can be bought by the
yard: and there are goods that come with
a iittle cording running through them. It
looked at t)»e first of the season as
though none but the martyrs and the
millionaires could enter into the fash
ionable world. All gowns were so elabo
rately embroidered, so intrinsicately ap-
pliqucd with lace, so profusely tucked
and sc wonderfully squared off, with the
insets made out of the daintiest linen
bits, that it seemed as though a woman's
whole tim»; would be ■pent upon the
making of one gown. To achieve even
one creation it looked as if she
would have to work interminably week in
and week out.
Bit all perplexities disappear before
the softening finger of time: and so with
the dress perplexity. As soon as the ac
tual sumin- r goods came to and were
spread out upon the counters one began
to notice the abundance and beauty of the
machine-made fabrics. One lovely bit of
goods, just a plain white cotton, costing
not much, shows tiny rows of pin tu'-king
with machine hemstitching- set in be
tween the groups ot tuck.'?. Such mate
rial is already trimmed and is all ready
to be made up into a waist.
The daintiest of summer crowns is
made from a material that is- a pale
yellow, the color of old lace. It has
a cording running through it, and ia
soft and crepey. At wide intervals ther.*
is a little puff in the goods. All this is
in the material itself. It requires no oth
er trimming except the littli- bit oi
which goes on all things. Lace is used
more elaborately m some cases than it
need be. There is a wide girdle of it
pointed top and bottom, front and back.
The neck shows a band of lace and a
lace point comes down to the bust. The
sleeves are finished with an flbow puff
with a band of lace at each side of the
puff. The deep flounce around the foot
is in plain goods, tucked at the top an.l
released at the bottom to make the
-ary flare, and there are little bands
of goods at the head of the fiounce with
hemstitching along each band.
While white is made up with all sim
plicity it is a sort "cf studi' d simplicity,
which is by no means plainness.
The question of a lining is a perplex
ing- one to the woman who dresses in
white, for the lining costs more than the
gown, and to line a 13-cent cotton means
something when viewed from the stand
point of the pocketbook. As for the
lining, it is a matter that cannot be ig
nored. All. or very nearly all. of the
summer goods are transparent, and the
lining is distinctly visible, painfully bo
sometimes. Of course, it is possible to
use the plain cotton linings, just as
one would with any ether gown. But
these Ilning3 do not show up well and
they add nothing to the beauty of the
If you cannot afford to line well, then
do not get a transparent dress, so the
modistes advise; and th*y. ser^ their
customers back to exchange dress pat
terns that show the lining too plainly
But the prettiest gowns for the house,
and many of the best gowns for the
street, do "show through." and the lin
ing question mast be tackled boldly
Here is the advice of a very fashionable
dressmaker, who designs and executes
for the wives of the millionaires
"l begin at the very beginning," says
she. and make my linings first
'•Mrs. A.,' 1 mentioning the wife o*
a famous multi-millionaire, "will not buy
silk linings, and one does not blame
her, for in summer they are not durable
and a substitute that looks just as well
must bo provided. Wo? fhis woman and
for many others among my patrons I
make very rtylUh ia»d wholly beautiful
linings of the finest t>« lawn. The waist
is low in the neck and |s jmade like a cor
set cover. FleevciesK-ill i s elaborately
trimmed with lace «*and would do for
an evening waist. It washes nicely and
is made separate fEgnt the gown For
the skirt I make ntft a petticoat but a
perfect fitting, perfect hanging dress
skirt. It has its flounce, which is very
full, and it has Lta sweep length It
would do very well^l*l^o, for a gown.
\Vhen the dress is to Be put on the lin
ing is first donned and hooked up the
The suirmer girl will revel in beads; that is, At will wear necklaces with
both high and low gowns. This one of the pretty preen olivine is considered very
chic, and is certainly becoming to a fair face. The bertha eff.-ct shown on the
low gown is a separate piece of Honiton lace to be transferred from one cor
sage to another at will. It is one of the- prettiest novelties of the season
skirt is now put on and hooked. Then
the dr e ss is put on, bodice and skirt. A
perfect fit is secured and the effect is
lovely. I make up linings in all colors
of me finest of lawn aaa in wash mull
£.r.d in the thin goods, following always
one model, and my patrons have four and
six ci' them,* 1 ana orun more, according
to the size of the wardrobe. The secret
is in making both waist and skirt so
that they.look like gowns, not like cor-.
set cover and petticoat. My patrons could
attend a dinner in a lining. Of that I
am positive." - 5 « ...
The ethereal girl is the one -who
dresse3 in the fairy goods. These come
delicately soft and thin, yet crisp, and
they are designed for the making of aft
ernoon and piazza -gowns.
There is quite a fad now for the gown
that is stiff and starchy, not soft and
clinging, and the mulls and linens Kern
designed for this. sort of treatment.
While the esthetic and artistic gown
the "slinky" one, that twists. .:around
one's feet, and gives one height "is in
fashion, it is undoubtedly true that the
crisp, sheer one is also in style, and the
afternoon maiden can see them both and
take her choice.
It is generally agreed among those who
make dress and its designing a lite
study, that the stiff, crisp linen and the
delightfully perky lawn, with its starch
ed effect, are both meant more for coun
try wear, for hotel "piazzas,, when one
can keep one's self in picture attitudes,
than for the street. These little drosses
are trimmed with Valenciehnec usually,
or with the softest and finest of summer
laces, and are made with the lace set in,
the skirt and with lace set in the waist.
There Is usually a baby-like yoke upon
such a waist, and this is completed with
a juvenile, ruffle of lace. Around the
fcot Is a dear, crisp little flounce. The
elbow sleeves are finished with a little
lace ruffle.-*' . -. :....:
Miss Simplicity will cress in white th's
summer, with the white waist buttjnin«
dcwn the back; ehe will have a yoke,
bordered with a lace ruffle, and her stock
will be little more than a lawn ban a
with lace along each edge. Her skirt
will l,e very simple and rather fuil. ft
will be finished with a very fluffy little
lace flounce. And she will 'wear a sash.
It is a line summer for the woman who
wants to do her own dressmaking, fur
in the newest of dress fabrics are seen
thos.- th;u have lace set in, afte- th«
most delicate ways. There are tho
mulls—though they are a little bit ex
pensive—that have really nice lace ?et in
to form a sort of design, large Irregular
diamonds and little swirls of lace. You
have to pay the price, but think at uoing
the work yourself!
Many ol' tin- handsomest new gowns
Red French veiling trimmed with straps of stitched taffeta. Two scarf ends
of taffeta fall from rings down the front.
are closed in the back and this style is
becoming to all. It is useful and grace,
ful. and the fact that it is a nuisance
is the only argument against it.
Stout women find this smooth front a
positive godsend. And ag.^in is the lit
tle woman suited, for within the plain,
BOfthr-trinuned front, guiltless of button
or scam, she beccrces ptsitively babyish.
There is something in her petite pretM
ness which takese at once to the waist
thai buttons down the tack. So it is
well to compromise with cries friends
and one's family, and to n:ake arrange
ments to be buttoned up with regularity
and care. The front forms a fine field for
the display of jewelry, and at a luncheon,
a very diessy one. to introduce a musi
cal relative of Sorrebcdy-or-Other to so
ciety, the ladie*' locked as though dec
orated with all the orders of the United
Kingdom. There is always the locket
which hangs from a slender, almost in
visible chain, and there is the dansrte
which hangs from its long chain. Lovely
sets of pins come now, four beautiful,
clear pea,rl ones, looking like mother
of-pearl, and a large c*al pin to match.
Ail these are for the front of the seamless
waist and arc to outline the yoke and
trim it. They are set^ at intervals, with
the big one in th» middle.
The big hat grows bipger and the little
hat grows smaller as the season warms
The latter is for u.atireo and for very
nice reception occasions and for special
events. But it can hardly be called a
street hat. Indeed, many do not own
the tiny little hat: and really draw no
medium between the big hat and non-j
at all. For a tiny hat, if v.ear one they
must, we men compromise upon a coiffure
ornament which consists of a feather,
an aigrette, a few perns and a bow of
velvet ribbon the whole bearing a wavy
look as though it were a thing of the
The Infortuur.tc Kiiicrlrncc of v
Niulit YVntchm.-in.
Villages in all parts of Germany still
maintain ''night watchmen, ' who act as
guardians of tne community ana carry,
when on duty, a lons lance, something
of the nature of a halberd, in their hand
-as they perambulate their beats during
the long, dark hours of the night.
They also have a Whistle with them, with
which they proclaim to the non-sleeping
inhabitants and to prowling men an.l
beasts what o'clock it is. It is only a
very few years ago that the large cities
dropped their "night watchman," but
many of the smaller towns in the prov
inces still employ their services. At a
townlet in Pu.sen, near the Silesian fron
tier, one of these old worthies had c
to blow his whistle when the dock
I scundeii the hour.
The burgermeister could not compre
hend the negligence, and the delinquent
vas summoned to his presence to account
for it. At first he was at a loss what
excuse to make, but, on 'being pressed,
he declared that a few days before his
last remaining- tooth had dropped out.
and that consequently he could produce
no sound from his beloved Whistle. The
burgermeister could think of no remedy;
nor could he punish the watchman. A
council was called to deliberate, and the
subject for ■ discussion was laid before
the meeting. At first profound silence
reigned. Finally one of the members of
the council rose and said he had heard
of the possibility of replacing human
teeth by artificial ones, adding that to
the best of his belief there was a man
in Breslau who undertook to do this. He
said he could not vouch for. the truth
of what he 'had heard, but he really had
been told that this was the case! A
long discussion ensued, with the result
•that the watchman was told to go to
Breslau to get a new set of teeth.
In .due course the old man returned to
the scene of his duties provided with the
n. edfoL The following night the burger
ir.eister sat up to hear the result. To his
astonishment there was no sound of the
whistle at 10 o'clock, nor at 11, nor even
• - - ' .-..-....
at midnight! The next morning he sum
moned the watchman, to whom ho ex
piessed his indignation. "You have got
your teeth now," said he; "why do you
rot whistle as before?" In a tone of
Humility the old chap replied: "Yes! I
have got a * new set ■of teeth; but I the -
doctor, told me I was to put them In
water overnight!"— Baltimore Sun.
'■-. ,' ■ ' :- , 0 '„' *
_^. ,
Her Complicated Excune.
• ''My dear," . said the fond motner who
was walking with rier daughter, "I'm
surprised at your actions. Don't you
know -it' is extremely bad form to turn
and ■; look after - a "gentle-man ... in the
street?" •■ v^ ; . :,:..-,„:.•". ■"-.- ■■-■...■■••■,■■■-
"Yes: I know it is, mama," replied the
fair bud;'"but I was only looking to see
if he was looking to see if I was looking."
—Chlcajco Na»K. ■
Cadics * *
Who want to replenish their wardrobes have been in
doubt the past two weeks to ; know what to buy. A
few days rain, a few more of cold, and then a few of
roasting weather, have upset all calculations. Well,
now it's almost June and you can depend on a lot of
warm weather soon. We are in position to offer you
some good things for hot weather wear, as well as
some sensible things for traveling and outing pur
poses. We have got in this week some excellent
Short Length Skirts
In thin wool materials, as well as in linens, crashes,
and other wash materials, at prices of $4.50 to $13.50.
Also we have a particularly tasty line of nobby and
Wash Suits
Really these suits at $5.75. $6.50, $7.50 to $16.50
are wonderfully pretty, and ladies who have already
bought them, all express surprise at their cheapness,
considering the tasty, pretty effects got. We have
laid ourselves out this year to have an unusually fine
assortment of everything nice in t
White and .Colored Wash Waists
You will find lots of pretty things at $1.25, $1.50,
$2.00 to $5.00 and $6.00, and we feel sure that we
can please you. We have a little lot of swell things
to offer you as great bargains. There are some
fifteen or more
Swell Efamine and Pongee Spits
That we have picked up at 25 to 33 per cent discount
(only one of a kind and no duplicates). You can buy
them at the same discount. You will see five of them
in our west window tomorrow. Now, then, let's talk
From all indications fur garments and neckwear prom
ise to be in greatest demand all over the world the
coming,. season. We have now the largest assortment
of elegant quality skins to select from that we ever
had in our whole career. We have put nearly $20,000
worth ot skins in stock the past ten days, and have a
particularly choice lot of Alaska Seals, Sables, Beavers,
Martens, Persian Lambs and Otters. Now is your
time to order. This is no joke—it is a mere statement
of fact. We buy our skins months ahead to gain in
quality and price. Why shouldn't you be as wise as
we? Come and see us or write us what you want for
next season, and let us furnish you prices and give
you pointers. If you haven't stored your furs, do
so at once. . It's dangerous to delay.
An Old Barber Snjx Men Take \o
Care of Their Hair.
The Old Barber was in a gloomy mood.
He was talking about bald heads. "Hair
may disappear altogether after a while,"
he said, "and in (hat event barbers will
have less to do than they have now. It
will force the barbers out of business.
From the way I look at it men are large
ly responsible for being baldheaded.
They do not take proper care of their
head covering. Long hair is one of the
v/orst things in the world. No man can.
keep his scalp thoroughly clean and wear
long hair. If the scalp is not kept clean
the hair will become unhealthy. It will
finally die.— Besides, It requires more
nourishment for a long hair than it does
for a short one. Men starve their hair
to death. Hairs must be fed and nour
ished like any other pert of the human
system. There is a quantity of oil in a
little bulb at the root of each hair, and
it is upon this substance that the hair
feeds. The oil ooees out into the open
ing in the hair. I suppose the heat of
the body forces this oily substance up
through the hollow of the hair, very
much like the heat of the atmosphere
forces the fluid up in a thermometer. At
THERE is one piano store in St. Paul where one
price absolutely prevails and all goods marked in
plain figures. A child can buy as cheaply as the
shrewdest bargain driver—and these pianos are sold
from factory to home, eliminating the expensive middle
men and saving the customer from 1 100 to $150.
any rate, it Is forced up, and often
oozes out the end of the hair, iiarbera
have resorted to singeing In order to keep
this oil In the hair. Singeing closes tho
hollow, seals it. and the oil is absorbed
by the hair. If the hair is allowed ti»
grow to any great length there la not
enough oil to properly feed it. It be
comes dry and finally dies. It cracks
open, and splits In two separate parts.
This process continues until .i man be
comes bald, often prematurely, and ho
never knows Just how it all happened.
There Is another thing to be considered
in this connection. The tension of life
is high now, and men are more feverish
than they used to be. This condition has
a serious effect on a man's hair, tending
to deaden it, and it falls out. Between
these influences, and others which might
be enumerated, bald heads have been
accumulating at an alarming rate, and
unless the men begin to think more of
these things the comb and brush will not
be needed in the average household and
the barber will simply close up shop, and
the time may not be so far off either.
It may not come in my time, of courae,
but I am not mistaken about tho
tendency. The number of bald heads
already in exist* nee will boar me out
in all I have said."—New Orleans Times-

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