Newspaper Page Text
HI y^ -^^« S^SHw^^l' \ f BB^ ■■■■■■■■'■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ ■ . W^^W .-'
■3 ■■"^»^'''l 1 Mafia J^fi* ■'■ ' '*'''. BF JOQ!F\SI *2&J\//*\ f7^/ >"^ * i 1 ■■••■:■•. * • £_} T^t Jt^ .A M w "Ifc ? E^S ■ pMi ■S^H * * ' " ' , FT"^! ■ HE summer has passed and Tthe girl whose mind has been hopelessly given over to the frivolities and vanities of summer resort life can now avail herself of the opportu nities to enhance her crowning glory—her hair. An unforgivable custom is that of wash- Ing the hair just before retiring. There are girls so intent upon daytime pleasures that they wash their hair after dark, and, with a half-hearted rubbing, they retire, leaving the loose and still moist locks hanging over the edge of their pillow to dry out during the night. Another evil habit for the hair is per mitting salt water to dry on the scalp. Burf bathers, especially those who sum mer regularly by the sea, are apt to un dervalue the effects of failure to shield the hair from salt water. If it penetrate round the edges of the bathing cap or kerchief, rinse the hair thoroughly in clear, fresh water. A shampoo la not necessary. Salt water drying in the hair means harsh locks and irritating scalp diseases. Eschew the brush and let your watch word be "Ventilate." Brushing the hair does not (stimulate the scalp. It merely makes the hair smooth and glossy, which can better be accomplished by gently rub- Wngr strands of hair between the fingers. The best method of stimulating the scalp Is massage, which any girl may practice, Instead of the old-time injunction of one hundred strokes nightly with a stiff bristle brush. Lift the hair up from the Ecalp, allowing the air to pass through it close to the roots, and gently massage, using the balls of the fingers; never the tips. If perspiration causes itching, shampoo frequently, but not oftener than thrice weekly. An egg shampoo often affords relief, but this should not be followed by a Eonp shampoo. Merely rinse tho head with warm water, which will remove all traces of the egg. A good brand of co logne used sparingly and with gentle touch will sometimes relieve the same unpleasant sensation. She will find that her custom of riding, boating and playing the various outdoor Ramos during the summer without a hat Will prove he~ strongest ally in the good work, if only she will give a little time and thought to this important matter. Hair culturists—and, by the way, this is now recognized as a profession of dig nity in every large city—assert that in the early fall they have their greatest rush of customers, drawn almost entire ly from the ranks of people who have bren out of town, presumably recuperat ing for their winter's work or social duties. Body, nerves and mind have been rested and cared for, but the hair has been woefully neglected during that sea son of the year most trying on woman's crown of glory. In the first place, tho hair being classed with vezetable growths, renews its life with the rest of nature in the spring, and this fresh crop, so to speak, •hould be tended with loving care to Insure an even, luxurious growth by fall. Secondly, heat and perspiration invite frequent shampoos, and if this is not properly done, serious damage may be wrought. Even the better class of sum mer resort hotels do not always afford ■ the conveniences of the modern city home. Unless a woman patronizes a re liable hairdresser, she should learn to care for her own hair properly. At least once a week shampoo thor oughly with the following mixture: ■ Lay a cake of the purest soap obtainable in a quart vessel, a pitcher affording the best facilities. Add a pint of boiling water and stir until a strong lather is formed. Lift out the cake of soap, and, if the hair is very oily, add a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda. Never use am monia or powederd borax. Wash hair and scalp thoroughly with this mixture while still warm, and rinse with warm water. Never yield to that very unnatural tend ency in hot wather to use cold water for rinsing. The sudden change in tempera ture is bad for both hair and scalp. If the hair is exceptionally dry, a renspoon ful of sweet almond oil may be added to the final rinse water. It is in tne drying of the hair that the average girl does the greatest mischief. She should beware the rough Turkish toweling, using, with as little energy aa possible, an old, soft towel. Then let the sun complete the work, lifting the hair both to ventilate it and let the sunlight penetrate to the scalp. This will in a measure ward off the formation of strata of hair in different shades. The American woman is crowned only with her hair, but her crown is regal if she choose to make it bo. For there Is nothing that so adds to a woman's beauty or detracts from it as the arrangement of her coiffure. Modern taste has discarded the ungrace ful features of some years ago and a more becoming style is in vogue, the tight kink of the curling iron is no more. The long", soft wave has superseded it, and with much more natural effect. The fashion of dressing the hair well at the back and even low on the nape has come in to stay, and in consequence nine tenths of the women are studying as to how much false hair is needed to achieve the prevailing mode. Some effort has been made, principally by several notable actresses, to bring the low parting into favor again, but this style has been adopted by very few as yet. The low coiffure, however, has been successfully revived. It is frequently finished with two drooping curls on the neck, both being placed on the same side and one somewhat longer than the other. A novel style of this low hairdressing is called the "lofer's knot." It is almost like a bow knot in appearance, a tight coil of hair confining the center and a loose arrangement extending above and below. The "rope twist" is usually worn high and the hair should be waved to produce the best effect. After it is caught up on the head it is separated into two strands, which are then loosely twisted together and coiled once or twice. This coiffure is very attractive and not at all difficult to arrange if the hair is fluffy. A big, three roll, or a big winged eight is the most satisfactory arrangement the coiffeurs have yet arrived at. For the morning the roll is unadorned, save for occasional ornamental pins; with the af ternoon dress clusters of little corkscrew cuns are tucked in behind the ears, to make way, in the evening, before long gainsborough ringlets that hang upon the bare shoulders. When two extremely long curls are drawn forward on either side of the neck they are appropriately called lady teazles, and not infrequently the hair is given a dash of powder to accentuate the Eigh teenth century quality of this style. The knot at the nape of the neck 1b es- peclally for full evening dress, and two or three curls are sometimes added. And again you see the knot a little higher on the head, and the front hair covering the ears In the genuine Cleo de Merode style. The arrangement of the front hair Is to a great degree a matter of becoming ef fect. It is parted in the center, at one Bide or not at all, just as you fancy, and it is simpFy waved, not curled; or, what is better still, there is no wave at all. The center parting is very modish with the low knot, and either one or two roses arranged just back of the left ear. Young girls are now wearing their hair on the nape of the neck with evening gowns, and the softer it looks the more charming Soft curls fall over the brow or on ,the neck, and large bows usually tie the puff of hair at the neck. Something far prettier and newer than the bow, however, is the little wreath of delicate flowers that coils all around the knot, with a stray leaf or bud tangling the curl on the neck. Pink rosebuds and frosted foliage are almost prettier than any other floral garniture. A little bru nette whose hair was as black as raven's wing coiled a wreath of forget-me-nots In her hair, and the contrast was very Striking. Crimson buds, too, look well on a -brunette. A perfectly charming flower piece for the hair was worn by a young married woman. It was a large crushed pink rose, filled with dew. The dew was represented by tiny white glass beads, and the rose was worn just back of the left ear The multiplicity of combs in the hair remains. Four and five are worn with apparent ease by most women. They cannot manage three with the hair in the upturned plait; but those who wear the hair high simply stud the head with shell combs. Old fashioned tortoise-shell back-combs, such as our grandmothers used to wear, great, high carved affairs, with gold filigree work about the edges, are dis played in the windows of the leading jew elers' shops. With the coming of the low coiffure these beautiful accessories ar« returning. They are almost as big as a email breakfast plate, and so delicately beautiful that some of them are pur chased only at the expense of a little fortune. The smart girl, however, will get one right away before the depart ment stores begin selling cheap imitations at twenty-flve cents each and before every young woman can afford one. The aecret of being smart is that of getting things first and throwing them away by the time every other woman has learned the trick. It is keeping just a little bit ahead of the crowd. Combs are always good style and for morning wear should be adopted exclu sively. The pure amber Is the most val uable, then comes the mottled, or tor toise shell and amber combined, and lastly the plain Bhell. There are some very beautiful though expensive sets to be had, side and back combs adorned with baroque pearls, tur quoise or aquamarine. Some are edged A Woman's Hair Is the Best and Most Reliable Key to Her Character. I OMEN who are the posses- Wsors of fine black hair are ; emotional and of v(#y sensflive nerves. Coarse black hair is said to de note great energy, but an unenviable disposition. Women who have brown hair make the best wives, for they are almost invariably full of sentiment, impassioned, "high strung," loyal and easily affected. Red-haired people are nearly always keen in busi ness transactions, quick of perception, high tempered and witty. The woman who has blond hair is Impulsive ».nd loving, but usually fickle, although i*n agreeable companion. Persons with naturally curly hair are said to be pos sessed of more lovable and sweet na tures than those with wiry or straight capillary adornment. On most occas ions the fact that we are looking our best is a wonderful Incentive to good behavior, and the woman with natural curls can discount her straight haired sister many a time and oft. She knows It. Why should she not be amiable? Straight hair was considered by the ancients as a mark of the god's dis pleasure. Hair which was straight be fore sickness will Bpmetimes grow curly afterward. and inlaid with gold and others are set with graduated pearls, the largest gem in the center. The amber horseshoe is In tended to encircle the low coiffure and is secured at the top with a small comb It may be purchased in different sizes and is a novelty attractive enough to becomo speedily popular. The coiffure worn low down In the nape of the neck suits lots of women and is apt to impart an air of simplicity and youth distinctly pleasing. But not a few women vary the fashion of their hair with a reckless indifference to the fashion of their hats, and the result Is an unsightly gap in the back view. Even the most bewitching Parisian confection that ever crowned the head of pretty woman may prove unbecoming If donned with a careless disregard of the mode of coiffure that its design demands. Some women seem to use only their front glass and leave the back view to take care of itself. At this time of the year the season has just begun. This season might be called the season of flowers, because they were worn in profusion both for hats and for coiffures; they are very effective, dainty, fresh and gay. It is especially in the long coiffures that they may be used to best advantage. At present, therefore, women are keeping to semi-long shape, and the nape hair raised but well puffed European Peasant Girls Barter Their Hair in Exchange for Cheap Finery i ' I N the various towns of th I Haute Vienne and th< Correze, the two depart ments forming the ol< Limousin province o ' " France, the hair fairs o: "Foires aux Cheveaux," country girli are invited to sell their tresses or t( barter them in exchange for cheap fin' cry and trinkets. The fairs are usual I? held in such places at Tulle, La Roche Canillac and Lapleau. When the girli have selected the goods they desire or received the money tney knee down before their executioners am become transformed Into apparentlj beardless boys In pemcoata. Th< poreators hang up their spoils befon the booths as an inducement to othi-i girls to part with their black 01 brown tresses for a trifle. After thf • fairs are OV2r the spoils are bought [ up by an agent, wno supplies deaiors , in Paris and elsewhere. It is affirmed > that a good deal of the hair from th€ 1 heads of the Limousin girls is sent to [ London. France furnishes more brown i and black hair than anj^ other coun -1 try, and fair and golden hair is fur | nished. as a rule, by the women ot i Germany and the north of Europe. ' Gray and white hair is always in de | mand, if of good quality, and fetclus a | h.c-1 price. A French woman's hair i weighs generally five ounces and a 1 half, an Italian woman's six ounces, | and a German woman's nine. 00». The hats, however, which are In the Louis XIV style, with very wide I turned down brims, seem to require a f long chignon extending down the sides ot the neck; but it is now too late to re criminate. However, perhaps there may Ft ill be some hope in regard to the long style of I coiffure, for the Parisian girls employed J. in shops, as milliners' hands, dressmaklffs l, and the like, are beginning to make a long coiffure which is not wanting in a certain Parisian chic. This coiffure con sists of a small catogan taking in a part of the nape hair and tied with a narrow piece of ribbon so as to allow of making a few puffs. This little catognn is car ried upward, the bow tying the catogan Is fixed about the middle of the head, and the remainder of the back hair is tied and dressed in three rouleaux, which- ara placed across and are made more or less supple, more or less smooth, more or less straight and thick, according to the thick ness and shade of the hair; sometimes an other low or a new art comb is placed over the chignon. It is still the custom to cover the fore head. Transformations are largely used, but are very light; ladies have their hair so much cut up by the irons of specialists in waving that it would be impossible, for them to appear in public without :\ffving ■; had their hair properly dressed.