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The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, October 05, 1902, Image 13

Image and text provided by Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059523/1902-10-05/ed-1/seq-13/

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■ HE summer has passed and
Tthe girl whose mind has been
hopelessly given over to the
frivolities and vanities of
summer resort life can now
avail herself of the opportu
nities to enhance her crowning glory—her
hair.
An unforgivable custom is that of wash-
Ing the hair just before retiring. There
are girls so intent upon daytime pleasures
that they wash their hair after dark, and,
with a half-hearted rubbing, they retire,
leaving the loose and still moist locks
hanging over the edge of their pillow to
dry out during the night.
Another evil habit for the hair is per
mitting salt water to dry on the scalp.
Burf bathers, especially those who sum
mer regularly by the sea, are apt to un
dervalue the effects of failure to shield
the hair from salt water. If it penetrate
round the edges of the bathing cap or
kerchief, rinse the hair thoroughly in
clear, fresh water. A shampoo la not
necessary. Salt water drying in the hair
means harsh locks and irritating scalp
diseases.
Eschew the brush and let your watch
word be "Ventilate." Brushing the hair
does not (stimulate the scalp. It merely
makes the hair smooth and glossy, which
can better be accomplished by gently rub-
Wngr strands of hair between the fingers.
The best method of stimulating the scalp
Is massage, which any girl may practice,
Instead of the old-time injunction of one
hundred strokes nightly with a stiff
bristle brush. Lift the hair up from the
Ecalp, allowing the air to pass through it
close to the roots, and gently massage,
using the balls of the fingers; never the
tips.
If perspiration causes itching, shampoo
frequently, but not oftener than thrice
weekly. An egg shampoo often affords
relief, but this should not be followed by
a Eonp shampoo. Merely rinse tho head
with warm water, which will remove all
traces of the egg. A good brand of co
logne used sparingly and with gentle
touch will sometimes relieve the same
unpleasant sensation.
She will find that her custom of riding,
boating and playing the various outdoor
Ramos during the summer without a hat
Will prove he~ strongest ally in the good
work, if only she will give a little time
and thought to this important matter.
Hair culturists—and, by the way, this
is now recognized as a profession of dig
nity in every large city—assert that in
the early fall they have their greatest
rush of customers, drawn almost entire
ly from the ranks of people who have
bren out of town, presumably recuperat
ing for their winter's work or social
duties. Body, nerves and mind have been
rested and cared for, but the hair has
been woefully neglected during that sea
son of the year most trying on woman's
crown of glory.
In the first place, tho hair being
classed with vezetable growths, renews
its life with the rest of nature in the
spring, and this fresh crop, so to speak,
•hould be tended with loving care to
Insure an even, luxurious growth by fall.
Secondly, heat and perspiration invite
frequent shampoos, and if this is not
properly done, serious damage may be
wrought. Even the better class of sum
mer resort hotels do not always afford ■
the conveniences of the modern city
home. Unless a woman patronizes a re
liable hairdresser, she should learn to
care for her own hair properly.
At least once a week shampoo thor
oughly with the following mixture: ■
Lay a cake of the purest soap obtainable
in a quart vessel, a pitcher affording the
best facilities. Add a pint of boiling
water and stir until a strong lather is
formed. Lift out the cake of soap, and,
if the hair is very oily, add a teaspoonful
of bicarbonate of soda. Never use am
monia or powederd borax. Wash hair and
scalp thoroughly with this mixture while
still warm, and rinse with warm water.
Never yield to that very unnatural tend
ency in hot wather to use cold water for
rinsing. The sudden change in tempera
ture is bad for both hair and scalp. If
the hair is exceptionally dry, a renspoon
ful of sweet almond oil may be added to
the final rinse water.
It is in tne drying of the hair that the
average girl does the greatest mischief.
She should beware the rough Turkish
toweling, using, with as little energy aa
possible, an old, soft towel. Then let the
sun complete the work, lifting the hair
both to ventilate it and let the sunlight
penetrate to the scalp. This will in a
measure ward off the formation of strata
of hair in different shades.
The American woman is crowned only
with her hair, but her crown is regal if
she choose to make it bo. For there Is
nothing that so adds to a woman's beauty
or detracts from it as the arrangement of
her coiffure.
Modern taste has discarded the ungrace
ful features of some years ago and a
more becoming style is in vogue, the tight
kink of the curling iron is no more. The
long", soft wave has superseded it, and
with much more natural effect.
The fashion of dressing the hair well at
the back and even low on the nape has
come in to stay, and in consequence nine
tenths of the women are studying as to
how much false hair is needed to achieve
the prevailing mode.
Some effort has been made, principally
by several notable actresses, to bring the
low parting into favor again, but this
style has been adopted by very few as
yet. The low coiffure, however, has been
successfully revived. It is frequently
finished with two drooping curls on the
neck, both being placed on the same side
and one somewhat longer than the other.
A novel style of this low hairdressing is
called the "lofer's knot." It is almost
like a bow knot in appearance, a tight
coil of hair confining the center and a
loose arrangement extending above and
below.
The "rope twist" is usually worn high
and the hair should be waved to produce
the best effect. After it is caught up on
the head it is separated into two strands,
which are then loosely twisted together
and coiled once or twice. This coiffure is
very attractive and not at all difficult to
arrange if the hair is fluffy.
A big, three roll, or a big winged eight
is the most satisfactory arrangement the
coiffeurs have yet arrived at. For the
morning the roll is unadorned, save for
occasional ornamental pins; with the af
ternoon dress clusters of little corkscrew
cuns are tucked in behind the ears, to
make way, in the evening, before long
gainsborough ringlets that hang upon the
bare shoulders.
When two extremely long curls are
drawn forward on either side of the neck
they are appropriately called lady teazles,
and not infrequently the hair is given a
dash of powder to accentuate the Eigh
teenth century quality of this style.
The knot at the nape of the neck 1b es-
peclally for full evening dress, and two or
three curls are sometimes added. And
again you see the knot a little higher on
the head, and the front hair covering the
ears In the genuine Cleo de Merode style.
The arrangement of the front hair Is to
a great degree a matter of becoming ef
fect. It is parted in the center, at one
Bide or not at all, just as you fancy, and
it is simpFy waved, not curled; or, what
is better still, there is no wave at all.
The center parting is very modish with
the low knot, and either one or two roses
arranged just back of the left ear.
Young girls are now wearing their hair
on the nape of the neck with evening
gowns, and the softer it looks the more
charming Soft curls fall over the brow
or on ,the neck, and large bows usually
tie the puff of hair at the neck.
Something far prettier and newer than
the bow, however, is the little wreath of
delicate flowers that coils all around the
knot, with a stray leaf or bud tangling
the curl on the neck. Pink rosebuds and
frosted foliage are almost prettier than
any other floral garniture. A little bru
nette whose hair was as black as raven's
wing coiled a wreath of forget-me-nots
In her hair, and the contrast was very
Striking.
Crimson buds, too, look well on a
-brunette. A perfectly charming flower
piece for the hair was worn by a young
married woman. It was a large crushed
pink rose, filled with dew. The dew was
represented by tiny white glass beads,
and the rose was worn just back of the
left ear
The multiplicity of combs in the hair
remains. Four and five are worn with
apparent ease by most women. They
cannot manage three with the hair in
the upturned plait; but those who wear
the hair high simply stud the head with
shell combs.
Old fashioned tortoise-shell back-combs,
such as our grandmothers used to wear,
great, high carved affairs, with gold
filigree work about the edges, are dis
played in the windows of the leading jew
elers' shops. With the coming of the low
coiffure these beautiful accessories ar«
returning. They are almost as big as a
email breakfast plate, and so delicately
beautiful that some of them are pur
chased only at the expense of a little
fortune. The smart girl, however, will
get one right away before the depart
ment stores begin selling cheap imitations
at twenty-flve cents each and before
every young woman can afford one. The
aecret of being smart is that of getting
things first and throwing them away by
the time every other woman has learned
the trick. It is keeping just a little bit
ahead of the crowd.
Combs are always good style and for
morning wear should be adopted exclu
sively. The pure amber Is the most val
uable, then comes the mottled, or tor
toise shell and amber combined, and
lastly the plain Bhell.
There are some very beautiful though
expensive sets to be had, side and back
combs adorned with baroque pearls, tur
quoise or aquamarine. Some are edged
A Woman's Hair
Is the Best and
Most Reliable Key
to Her Character.
I OMEN who are the posses-
Wsors of fine black hair are
; emotional and of v(#y
sensflive nerves. Coarse
black hair is said to de
note great energy, but an
unenviable disposition. Women who
have brown hair make the best wives,
for they are almost invariably full of
sentiment, impassioned, "high strung,"
loyal and easily affected. Red-haired
people are nearly always keen in busi
ness transactions, quick of perception,
high tempered and witty. The woman
who has blond hair is Impulsive ».nd
loving, but usually fickle, although i*n
agreeable companion. Persons with
naturally curly hair are said to be pos
sessed of more lovable and sweet na
tures than those with wiry or straight
capillary adornment. On most occas
ions the fact that we are looking our
best is a wonderful Incentive to good
behavior, and the woman with natural
curls can discount her straight haired
sister many a time and oft. She knows
It. Why should she not be amiable?
Straight hair was considered by the
ancients as a mark of the god's dis
pleasure. Hair which was straight be
fore sickness will Bpmetimes grow
curly afterward.
and inlaid with gold and others are set
with graduated pearls, the largest gem in
the center. The amber horseshoe is In
tended to encircle the low coiffure and is
secured at the top with a small comb
It may be purchased in different sizes and
is a novelty attractive enough to becomo
speedily popular.
The coiffure worn low down In the
nape of the neck suits lots of women
and is apt to impart an air of simplicity
and youth distinctly pleasing. But not
a few women vary the fashion of their
hair with a reckless indifference to the
fashion of their hats, and the result Is
an unsightly gap in the back view. Even
the most bewitching Parisian confection
that ever crowned the head of pretty
woman may prove unbecoming If donned
with a careless disregard of the mode
of coiffure that its design demands.
Some women seem to use only their front
glass and leave the back view to take
care of itself.
At this time of the year the season has
just begun. This season might be called
the season of flowers, because they were
worn in profusion both for hats and for
coiffures; they are very effective, dainty,
fresh and gay. It is especially in the
long coiffures that they may be used to
best advantage. At present, therefore,
women are keeping to semi-long shape,
and the nape hair raised but well puffed
European Peasant
Girls Barter Their
Hair in Exchange
for Cheap Finery
i ' I N the various towns of th
I Haute Vienne and th<
Correze, the two depart
ments forming the ol<
Limousin province o
' " France, the hair fairs o:
"Foires aux Cheveaux," country girli
are invited to sell their tresses or t(
barter them in exchange for cheap fin'
cry and trinkets. The fairs are usual I?
held in such places at Tulle, La Roche
Canillac and Lapleau. When the girli
have selected the goods they desire
or received the money tney knee
down before their executioners am
become transformed Into apparentlj
beardless boys In pemcoata. Th<
poreators hang up their spoils befon
the booths as an inducement to othi-i
girls to part with their black 01
brown tresses for a trifle. After thf
• fairs are OV2r the spoils are bought
[ up by an agent, wno supplies deaiors
, in Paris and elsewhere. It is affirmed
> that a good deal of the hair from th€
1 heads of the Limousin girls is sent to
[ London. France furnishes more brown
i and black hair than anj^ other coun
-1 try, and fair and golden hair is fur
| nished. as a rule, by the women ot
i Germany and the north of Europe.
' Gray and white hair is always in de
| mand, if of good quality, and fetclus a
| h.c-1 price. A French woman's hair
i weighs generally five ounces and a
1 half, an Italian woman's six ounces,
| and a German woman's nine.
00». The hats, however, which are In
the Louis XIV style, with very wide I
turned down brims, seem to require a f
long chignon extending down the sides ot
the neck; but it is now too late to re
criminate.
However, perhaps there may Ft ill be
some hope in regard to the long style of I
coiffure, for the Parisian girls employed J.
in shops, as milliners' hands, dressmaklffs l,
and the like, are beginning to make a
long coiffure which is not wanting in a
certain Parisian chic. This coiffure con
sists of a small catogan taking in a part
of the nape hair and tied with a narrow
piece of ribbon so as to allow of making
a few puffs. This little catognn is car
ried upward, the bow tying the catogan
Is fixed about the middle of the head, and
the remainder of the back hair is tied
and dressed in three rouleaux, which- ara
placed across and are made more or less
supple, more or less smooth, more or less
straight and thick, according to the thick
ness and shade of the hair; sometimes an
other low or a new art comb is placed
over the chignon.
It is still the custom to cover the fore
head. Transformations are largely used,
but are very light; ladies have their hair
so much cut up by the irons of specialists
in waving that it would be impossible, for
them to appear in public without :\ffving ■;
had their hair properly dressed.

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