Newspaper Page Text
NATURAL-LOOKING WAVES MADE WITHOUT THE USE OF AN IRON.
fall Frocks Beautified By Handwork Braids, passementeries and embroideries are offered this, fall in gorgeous display. Some are Persian, with dark Oriental colors, brightened occasionally by a twisted gold thread or patch of old silver cloth; some are Japanese, brilliant, almost grotesque in their weave and design; others are just artistic and attractive trimmings. If one is attracted by the embroideries sho certainly Is startled at their value. One gown, elaborately trimmed, is worth more than the cost of a summer In the country for most persons. And yet we must have them, and an occasional shopper has- solved the problem how. She first did that thing dreaded of sales men—took samples of the new dress mate rials. These she took home and studied. The camel's hair and rough-dotted cloths seemed most popular and workable for street gowns. For matinee waists she could find nothing prettiecthan crepe de chine and silk batiste, and a robin's egg-blue broadcloth for the morning gown. With these materials at hand she drew upon her ingenuity and the memory of the embroidery displays for her trimmings. First she took up the camel's hair. It was dark blue, with long, silvery hairs giving it sheen. Here was the chrysalis of the idea for its decoration. Four yards of black vel vet, cut on the bias, and two spools of knit- ting silk, one black, ono white, were bougtit. The velvet was cut into five-inch strips, sav ing enuogh for the belt. These pieces were 6ewed together, lined with crinoline, three inches marked off for the end, and the rings formed by tracing them around a spool. This was done on the wrong side with col ored crayon. The design was then cut out, leaving perpendicular stems to the disks. The gown being completed except for the finish ing, the velvet band was faced in at the bot tom and each stem and disk carefully basted in place. Two threads of the white silk were laid flat across the first space, up the stem, around the wheel and on to the nest, being couched diagonally with the black silk. When all was finished, rays of the white silk were made to point to the center of each wheel. The velvet band on the sleeves has the rings outlined with the couching, but not cut out, and at the throat they are gradu ated. Satisfied with this success she passed on to the next. This was a loosely woven rose cloth, wltlj soft loops of black and white, shaggily thrown up so as to give the appearance of a stripe. Plain rose broadcloth, corded with tiny tncks, formed the collar and cuffs to the oversleeves. White silk muslin was used for the 6oft vest and undersloeves. Sage green velvet bordered the collar and cuffs IMITATION OF PERSIAN EMBROIDERY. and formed the belt. These colors entered into the exquisite Persian embroidery. Or, was it Persian? Surely it was Oriental, for such poems In dull colors exist only in the brains of our Par Eastern friends. She had cut queer-shaped oblongs from white cloth, outlined them first with black silk braid, then gold thread. A rude circle was cut from the center and through this passed a strip of cloth having a similar border. The main surface of the oblongs was broken by diagonal crosslines of green and blue. These were laid in so closely that thoy formed satin stripes which terminated in a series of odd squares at the narrow sides. These squares were of rose, green, ivory, with now and then an outline of black. The white back ground was not entirely covered. Heavy Roman silk floss had been used, and this clever woman pronounced the satisfaction in tho result more than worth the effort. This sik works quite rapidly. Tlio blue blouse was then undertaken. The ornaments for this were made in separate figures. A round mould, broader at one side than at the other, was first covered with black velvet, then a fancy, narrow ribbon passed three times through the center and across tho front face. An oblong, one and three-quarters by one and a quarter inches, was then cut from the velvet. In one of the oblong sides were inserted two widths of the ribbons, fastened together at one edge. The oblong of velvet, tab and ring were then outlined with a tiny chain of knitted gold wires. The full length when finished was just four inches. The result was quite as charming and satisfactory as in the other experiments, so the white crepe waist was now given full attention. A pretty pattern of leaf-shaped medallions in black Brussels lace had been chosen. These were neatly sewed on white taffeta and the centers cut out. Tho effect was a border of black lace flowers on a white ground. The plain white center was then embroidered with a simple cluster of flowers. A rose, a white live potaled blossom and a forget-me-not formed this dainty bouquet, just the sort of thing that charmed our colonial grandmothers and have been so much affected in our "Dolly Vardon" fads. These medallions when completed were ar ranged at the corners of the large collar. Stems of the net and a lattice work of the silks usrd in the flowers connected them. The collar itself was of white taffeta with clusters of rainbow, stitched tucks and in the full inulle front these same flower colors were produced in three stitches forming small diamonds. Square moulds were covered ,I^^£^===^ with the taffeta, long and short stitch mak ing a fence like edge decoration. A large pink silk button filled the center. Loops of black Roman silk completed the outline of the moulds, makiug a perfect harmony with the lace and embroidery- White soutache braid ma.v be crossed 60 as to form squares and each of these be filled with a spider web of many colors. For this thread an embroidery needle with the several colors desired, and. keeping perfectly straight, a large web will be made very quickly. A coarsely woven braid may be made a thlug of beauty by filling it with diamonds of loosely made French knots. Sage green and Indian red broadcloths will bo much used together. Counect them into one band by any of the simple and re peating forms seen so much on Indian bas kets. If ilowers are desired, square their edges. Handsome tabs can be made of broadcloth, outlined with the narrow silk braid and con taining some geometrical center formed of French knots. Gas Wouldn't Light Knowing that electricity had been used in lighting the house, the man who was putting in the gas range asked the mistress of the house if she would know how to used it. "Certainly," she replied. And to show how much she knew she forthwith turned on the gas. It made a noise, but no light appeared. Bhe turned it off. then on again, but still there was not a sign of a blaze. "That's curious," she said at last. "Some thing's the matter. You must have set it up wrong." "I guess It's because yon forgot to use a match, madam." suggested the man. THE ST. PAUL GLOBE: SlrfsßAY, OCTOBER 5, 1902. x jTMIGAT 4fl CAM BC » \ IAI ufl l^a* to CURL / iiiii (MM TAUOftWroCUM, For the straight-haired woman there dawns a brighter day. Let her throw away crimp- Ing pins and papers and abandon curling irons. There is a little trick to be learned whereby she may make her hair assume fascinating curls all over the head, and the best part of the new idea lies in the fact that these curls made without irons actually defy fogs and rain. To be fashionable, one's coiffure must now be arranged in a series of undulations all over the head, while the pompadour, partic ularly, should show a softness that makes it becoming to nearly every face. The curiy-haired woman has had her in ning and has gloated over her less fortunate sister, who has struggled for hours to get her stringy locks into presentable shape only to see them straighten out in the damp air or blow into unattractive wisps. Now her mind may be at rest and her pretty head may rival the crowning glory of the Lore lei. It has always seemed .1 pity to use curling irons on the hair, for no matter how care fully they are wielded the hair will sooner or later crack and split under the treatment. Pins likewise spoil the natural beauty of a fair head, while papers, tnough less harm ful, are out of date on account of their hideousness. But waves are fashionable, so waves we must have, and many a lovely head of hair is utterly ruined in the endeavor to keep it up to the mark of fashion. Besides this destruction to the life and beauty of each hirsute filament, there is an appalling waste of time curling the hair every day with the irons.' Perhaps this hour or hour and a half might not seem much of a loss if, in the end. the hair derived some benefit from their use, but unfortunately this does not happen to be the case. Now, the new method, REPEATING THE PROCESS ON THE SIDE OF THE POMPADOUR. which docs away entirely with Irons and heat in producing waves, may be considered, in quite the opposite liglit, and the woman who tries it for a few successive weeks will find that her hair has improved aston ishingly under the treatment, while in the meantime her wavy locks have been a source of envy to every other feminine creature. In the beginning it may be well to say that some heads of hair are vastly more amenable to any curling process than oth ers, but eventually they all will conform to the ranch-desired style if carefully and prop- USING A BRUSH FOR PUTTING ON THE TONIC. erly treated. Time is required in any case, but the average head ought to show signs of permanent waves and improvemeiA at the end of three or four weeks. At first, too. it is necessary to go through with the curl ing arrangement oftenor than it will be after Our Dressmakers To Invade What the American men have done in the capturing of foreign trade the American women are planning to accomplish in the sartorial realm. With this modest ambi tion some of our American dressmakers have formed an organization bearing the somewhat formidable title of the Dress makers' Protective Association. They admit the past supremacy of the European arbiters of modes, but claim that for several years past the foreign gown makers have caught up many American ideas, which they have enlarged and ampli fied and turned to a dozen different uses. American dressmakers go to Paris twice a year, and bring back the models that strike the note of change in fashions. From these creations of Paquin, Doocet, Raudnitz, Cal lean and others equally famous, the Amer ican dressmaker gathers the foundation for her own confections, and from a particularly effective and becoming line she finds the motifs for four or five different gowns, each distinct one from another, yet all having the same source. So beautiful are these dresses and so original is their style that the Question naturally comes Why t the American dressmaker capable of wield the faThTon's scepter? With all her.origin- Sftv Ingenuity and cleverness,- her ideas have' their inception in Paris models, but what the new association aims to show is that American designers may be inde- P<There^are two things In which the.de signer across the j water excel:! our dress makers These are the European study of detail and his art in combining colors. In the first \ Instance,* if ' the i Americans surrendered to the - importance of \ detail,; and made out of it all that was to be made, foreigners would not be able to derive their greatest v successes * from ; foundation . ideas original with their Yankee competitors., Nothin-is of too little importance in the way of details the | European to work over and I from which to evolve something new and ; the Americains have only .them selves to blame, 'and their national fault of hurrying on. to something new. before the old ] has. been turned, 'twisted and made to serve again and again. the hair has fallen into the way it should go. We will assume that the hair Is to be worn low on the neck and undulations are desired in the pompadour and sides. The first 6tep is to part off the hair from ear to ear, as one would before doing it up. The hair should be thoroughly brushed so that there are no particles of dust or dandruff to make it look dingy, and above all th«s should be no oily appearance to detract from the beauty and softness that are so essential to the well groomed head* When all these points have been carefully observed and the front hair has been sep arated from the rest, the next step is to di vide this portion into three sections*,, each one then being brushed danu over the face and moistened slightly with some good odor less tonic. A tonic,ls used instead of water, simply for the reason that It is considered more beneficial and a certain dampness is re qu-ired to make the hair easy to handle. Now comes the real trick of it all, and the novice will find herself feeling all fingers and thumbs until sbe has acquired the knack of making waves. The middle part of the pom- MAKING THE FIRST WAVE. padour is taken up first and combed straight back from the face. Then with the comb a wave is produced, and it must be remem bered at this point that nearly every head of hair has a natural inclination to wave, either to the left or the riglit side, and this ten dency must always be observed and followed. When the first wave has been placed it should be held In position with the little flu ger of the freehand, then the second undula tion should follow, so that the space between is in accord with the wave, and this in turu should be held down with the third finger. The same method of procedure should be continued until all four fingers are holding down undulations, and then, before releas ing the fingers, very small wive hairpins shouid be employed to fasten close to the head the series of waves just formed. Usu ally this number of undulations will be found quite sufficient in producing a pretty and fluffy pompadour, but when a very low .style of coiffure is desired, in order to have these waves reach all the way back to the knot, it will be necessary to go through the waving •find pinning process to the extent of two or Europe. As to the second count, it is the inborn instinct of the European which brings about such delicate and such daring combinations of color, such lovely results from apparently discordant foundations. In this respect the dressmaker over the water has always ex celled. While it is acknowledged that the Amer ican dressmakers have made rapid strides, and that there is a great future before them, Paris still remains the capital of the king dom of style. The most enthusiastic Amer ican patriot never is more enthusiastic over American styles than when she is wearing some irreproachable creation from across the water. The optimistic American dressmaker be lieves, however, that if Europe is ready and willing to adopt Yankee methods in other spheres than that of fashion, there is noth ing in the way of its surrendering to the American styles but a prejudice in favor of the designers across the water. How far this is true remains to be seen. The association has planned and begun a vigorous campaign. The most prominent dressmakers of the Western* Continent as sembled iii this city recently to attend the opening exhibition of the association. Miss Elizabeth White* the president of the association, said: "We American dress makers are after the credit which belongs to our nation, and in order to give an exhi bition of what we have accomplished in the past, and show how far along the road to supremacy we have gone, wemean to estab lish and equip offices in the fashion centers across the water. ' Wei shall open branches in Paris, Vienna and Berlin first, and these offices will be for the display of American art in designing and making gowns, and for the purpose of encouraging Americans to originate attractive models to compete with the native ones. "You see, Europe never has been called upon before to recognize its Yankee com petitors in this line, and we have never really settled upon a fashion center on our own side of the water. All this, however, may be changed after we have established our dresmakers on the Continent, where their ideas and designs may be molded by three more waves. Each side of the head is treated in exactly tbe same manner, every step being repeated in tho proper order, though it will not often be found necessary to do more than four waves to this part. There is a great deal In this pinning proc ess, for, unless the hair is held quite flat and the waves kept in even rows the effect is decidedly marred. Part of the trick lies In handling the comb, for with this in strument the ondulalions are formed, but uf i er a little practice the hair may be trained to fall iv natural waves. The pins should be- allowed to remain In the hair from half an hour to an hour, the length of time really depending on the rapid ity with which the hair dries. It is an ex cellent idea to tie over this part of the hair a thin old veil or a piece of soft point d'esprit. To be sure, this sort of head wear is not the prettiest thing in the world, but It is worn in a good cause, and the result of tho waving process will be found so thor oughly satisfactory that one can excuse th means employed. Besides, pins and vei: couid never equal in ugliness paper twist* and curious arrangements once upon a time used on miladi's pretty head. When the pinned-down hair is quite dry the wire hairpins should be removed anil the hair lifted off the face and carefully combed through with a coarse comb. Theu it should be allowed to hang over the face in order to permit of the Hulling operation. This noes away with the wearing of a "rat" and makes tbe pompadour stand out in a soft roll that is perfectly light and com fortable on the head. The inner side of the pompadour, from the line of the part ex- wV' :^' "\i THE SERIES COMPLETE AND READY FOR PINNING. tending from ear to ear. Is "puckered up," as it were, by running the comb in severa: short movement-? through this Inside layer and toward the head. When a sufficient fonndutioti has been given to it all the waved part of the hair is drawn up and rounded prettily ovt r this mass of nuffiness. The actnal waving of the hair in this man nor is reaHy far simpler to do than one would think, and after the trick has been fallowed fur a short time it will be surpi-i - ing to note how naturally the hair falls into the way of curling, so that even in damp ■*"'■. T^^^*«^^^^ EACH FINGER HOLDS A SEPARATE WAVE. weather a woman may venture forth happy in the l:nowif dge that at last she is able to defy the elements that once proved destruc tion to ringlets and waves not the gift of nature. those of the Parisian. "Any woman, be she Yankee or Russian, will buy the gown that is becoming, whether it was made by American hands or those of a Hottentot, and therein lies onr hope of success. We intend to make our gowns so distinctly attractive and so artistic that our supremeey will come as a matter of course. It is onr ambition to lead the world of fashion." Odd Bridal Customs, There used to be a custom of strewing flowers before the bridal couples as they went to the church and from the church to the house. Suppose the way with fragrant herbs were strewing, Ail thluga were ready, we to the church were going, And now 6uppose the priest had joined our hands, is a quaint old verse that refers to this cus tom. The Persians introduce a tree at their marriage feasts laden with fruit, and it is the place of the guests to try to pluck this without the bridegroom observing. If suc cessful they must present the bridal couple with a gift a hundred times the value of the object removed. In Tuscany brides wear jasmine wreaths, and there is a legend that a once reigning grand duke, who at great expense procured this flower for his own particular garden, gave orders to his garden er not to part with any flowers or clippings; but the gardener, who was ia love, took a sprig to his sweetheart as a gift She, being shrewd, planted it and raised from it several small plants, which sne sold to the duke's envious neighbors at a great price. In a short time she had saved sufficient money to enable her lovet and herself to marry and start huosekeep4ng, and so the Tuscans have a saying that "the girl worthy of wearing the jasmine wreath is rich enough to make her husband happjr." I •-"-.'" SHOWING THE FRONT ARRANGED IN SOLID WAVES What You Can Do With $150 A Year. "Feathers and flowers are lovely, but I never buy them," remarked a stylish-looking woman, "nor silk waists and petticoats. They are too expensive." Her companion surveyed her critically be fore replying: "Yet there are few women of my acquaintance who are so uniformly well dressed. You look smarter than most of them, and"—almost interrogatively—"must spend at least $400 annually on clothes." "Nothing like it! My allowance is exactly $150. Thirty dollars is set apart for Inci dentals—toilet necessities, the hair dresser occasionally, sometimes the chiropodist leaving $120, or $10 a month, for clothing, and I make a point of spending every penny of it every 12 months, not a cent more or less. "The most important item Is the broad cloth tailor-made street gown. By going to all the best shops it is always possible to find at some one of them a first-class quality at a reasonable price, and it is extravagance to buy anything excepting good material, as this gown must be tho standby for a year. The silk lining should be of good quality, as well. By the way, never purchase anything but a black lining, even if the cloth Is of some other dark color, because this is one of those instances where one and one make one and not two; that is to say, a portion of one half-worn lining added to a portion of another in a similar condition make what is practically equal to a new one. Street gowns are smartest trimmed with the same material or with stitching, and there are tailors- who will make a coat and skirt for from $12 to $15, according to the amount of work, furnishing hook?, sewing silk, etc. We will allow $27 for the cloth gown. The first year it serves for church, for the thea ter and for visiting. You may be certain, however, that there are never any risks taken, and if the weather is- at all threaten ing, last year's dress is donned. "Next in order is a lace gown, always blfttk. By waiting until the midsummer sales $10 will purchase a very good one; pos sibly even a robe. Here is an opportunity to utilize the old black silk linings. Auy seainstri>S9 can put a robe dress together, and although in some instances the making costs $5 it is frequently less. That is my sole evening gown, if you insist upon cred iting me with anything of the kind, at $15, and must do duty for dinners, and even for the opera should I be so fortunate as to re ceive an invitation. THE USEFUL SILK FROCK. "It is always an easy matter to find a good quality of china silk at 50 cents a yard, preferably without any design and in a dark color. This will answer for a street gown in warm weather, and is useful throughout the entire year. A good dressmaker will come to the house for $3 a day, and, by sew ing with her constantly, she will leave the frock in such condition that I am able to finish it by myself. The waist only Is lined, and with lawn. Another dollar will buy thread aud every little trifle necessary, as the frock Is invariably trimmed with the same material. "For house wear in winter a cashmere at 50 cents a yard, trimmed with ribbon or a little silk, looks well enough to appear in, no matter who may call. In summer a morn ing dress of gingham at 10 ci'nts a yard al ternates with the one of the previous ytar, and a pretty lawn, also at 10 cents a yard, trimmed with inexpensive lace—say, 00 cents for the lace—takes the place of the winter cashmere for an afternoon dress. By the way, ther-e is usually enough material left over from the thick and the thin house dresses to supply dressing jackets. "Of course, there isu"t any opera cloak! For the theater I have to rely upon the coat belonging to the cloth suit, and whenever the lace or silk frocks are worn in the even ing, a warm cashmere shawl answers every purpose, and is not conspicuous in a street car, as the gown is invariably of a dark color. "I avoid tea gowns. That road leads to extravagance. They're lovely and wonder fully becoming, but I realize the limitations of my purse and simply never think of them lv connection with myself, as It is linpossi- S ' ' ■■.^^^^^^^^^fej)^g>v^*-.^- ■■■: ■■"■.■. '■■."■:: .. ■: ■ ■".■. ■• ■ ■ "■"•■ ■■■■.■■■■ ■:-. . ■ ■:■: •"■'*■■ ■.-■-• . ■■; . ■■■•■■ ■;.'• - •• . ~ ■ ■:-.■■..-' <h* :'*•:"' ■■■:'■' 7 r- ;..-...'-■' • . AFTER THE HAIR IS DRESSED AND COMBED. ble for an amateur to get up an artistic one, and therein ouly lies their effectiveness. Of course, a thick and thin wrapper are ab solutely necessary. Mine, however, are ex ceedingly simple and do not claim the most distant kinship to the aristocratic tea gown. BLOUSES FOR ALL SEASONS. "Separate waists? Yes; six of them. Three shirtwaists of fine white lawn, ready made, at $1.50 each; two others of flannel, to w?ar, in winter underueath the coat, at $1 each (the materials only), and one of lace, black or white alternative years, for as this sort of waist is worn merely on state occasions it lasts for two years. The lining is usually new, at an expenditure of $1.50, $2.50 pays the woman who puts the garment together, aud $3 more will buy tho lace itself." "How about petticoats?" "Never a black silk one; all other colors seem to wear better than black silk, when it comes to using silk for a pelticoat. There is a shade of golden brown which blends nicely with almost any color, and a deep silk flounce sowed on a mohair foundation skirt proves satisfactory. Black and white silk also wears well, or gray and white. You will find that two of these skirts will be quite sufficient for one year, and that $5 is enough to set aside for petticoats. "Cambric, muslin and Imitation Valen ciennes lace are cheap, aud a few dollars covers the item of lingerie. Expensive cor sets and fine stockings are out of the ques tion; the latter at 23 cents a pair do well enough, and eight pair of them are sufficient. "No, I uevov buy parasols, but whenever one of my woman friends asks me what I would like best for a Christmas or birthday present—oh, yes, I do have birthdays, even yet—the reply is something to the effect that a sun umbrella is always useful. "Ten dollars may seem an absurdly small sum to devote to hats, and would certaiuly not be enough if they were ornamented with, ostrich feathers or flowers, but as they'are invariably black and of chiffon, straw or vel vet, trimiut-d with ribbou and birds, or por tions of birds, despite the Audubou people, $5 each season—that is, winter aud summer —will be found suflicient to purchase cover ing for the head, especially in these day 9 when an elaborate hat is necessary for the theater and not'good form for church. One dollar will buy all the veils necessary if you take care not to tear them when taking them oIT. FEET MUST BE NEATLY SHOD, "Two pair of walking boots and one pair of Oxford ties at $3.50 a pair will carry the woman who does an ordinary amount of walking through a year, and at this price shoes of excellent material and shape may be procured. It is a meagre amount to al low, aud while* it will keep the foot neatly shod, is the minimum sum, adding $2 for necessary repairs. "Sometimes it is possible to save a little mouey on some articles and spend it on oth ers. For instance, there are rubbers and slippers. They usually last longer than one yeai aud need not always be considered when allowing for necessary expenses. "This souuds as though there was a great deal of sewing to be dove at homo, but It is all of so simple a nature that any girl of 16 could do as much without ovortaxing her strength or her brain or her time. Besides, 1 don't go in for fancy work, unless you mean fancy cooking, and that is something wo haven't been talking about." The Woman And Her Face. Once upon a time a woman had a quarrel with Lor features because they made ugly faces at her when she looked in the glass. She scolded and scolded, but It alKdid no good. \ Finally she sat in front of her mirror, aud with rouge, powder and black pencil went deliberately to work to show her face how wrong it was, and succeeded. After a time she smiled a smile of intense satisfaction, and her face smiled pleasantly back at her. Moral.—lt Is better to make up than to continue differences.