The Saint Paul globe., July 03, 1904, Page 6, Image 6

About The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905

Image provided by: Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

                
6
WHITE CREPE4NDLACE.-OP DOTTED SWISS AND INaERTION
f^fe^^&^^^
WHITE CREPE 4ND LACE«^O»
BY KATHERINE ANDERSON
ONE of the easiest problems for
the summer girl to solve,
when planning her wardrobe,
is that of the dance gown.
For several seasons white has been
the only choice for the woman who
wished to be in good form, and the
revival of delicate tints fqr__evening
frocks is, therefore, welcome." With
the white gown variety could be se
cured only through the trimming, but
this year there are many patterns in
dainty colorings on which to exercise
ingenuity.
The white gown was a genuine trial
to the girl of dainty tastes, for its
beauty depended almost entirely upon
delicacy and sheerness. The daintily
figured patterns prevalent this year
can be imitated in cheaper weaves
with better effect, both as to wearing
qualities and general appearance.
Women Who Use Sham
Jewels in Summer
Women who own valuable jewelry
seldom use it in /summer. This is
not because they prefer paste gems
with summer gowns, but because
summer homes invite ■ sneak thieves
and make it dangerous for,a woman
of recognized wealth and extrava
gance to keep her finest jewelry there.
The jewelers in all large cities
have busy times just before the sum
mer season opens. Gems are taken
for cleaning, resetting and storage
during the hot weather.
After the jewelry has been cleaned
and thoroughly repaired, it is sent
to safety deposit vaults, where it
remains until its owner returns for
the social campaign in the fall.
It is not unusual for the woman
who likes to make a display of jew
elry to have the real gems removed
from their setting and fine imitations
substituted. These are worn during
the summer, and even her best friends
—or enemies—cannot detect the dif-
ference, but recognize only the famous
fashion of the setting.
The real gems in the meantime are
being reset on entirely new designs,
and when Milady returns to town in
the fall, writers in the society papers
mention that her tiara, her stomacher,
or her famous diamond collar has
been reset, after the newest designs
irom London cr Paris.
Another imitation very common in
summer is that of the silver service
employed on the table in the families
of the very rich. Where the winter
dinner table is set forth in sterling
metal, this ware is not taken to the
mountains or the shore, but is deposit
ed in the safety deposit vaults, a per
fect imitation in triple plate being
taken in its place.
Even during the social season .in
town, an imitation service is kept at
the house for ordinary use, and the
real seivice is brought iorth from the
safety deposit vaults only,for special
occasions. The real ware is so per
iTctly copied in the plate that even
us owner is sometimes deceived^
The summer dancing gown is easily
planned and cheaply supplied because
simplicity is essential. If there is one
time more than another-when a girl
should not look over-dressed it is at
the summer hop. Elaboration in trim
ming is especially bad. Fleecy, filmy
effects are to be obtained, if possible.
The ribbon-trimmed frock which
looks very well at a garden party is
too elaborate for the hop at the hotel
on the same night. v
Belles of several seasons sometimes
indulge in the regulation party dress,
with decollete bodice and elaborately
dressed coiffure, but the real summer
girl wears a simple frock, with the
popular Dutch neck, not too low, and
elbow sleeves, while she tucks a sim
ple ribbon ornament or half-blown
rose in her hair.
In the figured materials, white and
cream nets, stamped in delicate Dres
den or pompadour flower designs, are
popular. These lend themselves ad-
The Close Season for Nail Files.
"It is curious," said the experienced
traveler, "how difficult it is some
times to get the simplest thing in a.
place where you might expect to
find everything you need. Early in
season 1 went to one of the summer
resorts on the Sound before the hotels
were open. The natives there are still
primitive enough to keep up a com
fortable little country hotel where you
can get good ham and eggs and milk
and that sort of thing.
, "When 1 unpacked my grip I found
that I had forgotten my nail file. I
started out to find one in the village
shops. I went to every one of them,
but no nail file could be, found. The
nearest I could come to it was a pair
of tweezers.
''Finally. I asked the druggist why
so necessary an article was not kept
in his stock. 'Well, you see/ he re
plied, 'the season ain't opened yet,
and we ain't got in our stock. Now,
if it was after the first of June —'
"After trying to convince him that
1 couldn't wait till the first of June
for a nail file, I bought the tweezers.
I have heard of the close season for
deer and duck and quail, but it took
a New England druggist to inform
me as to the close season for nail files.
It doesn't open till June I, that's sure."
The Floss Book.
A dainty gift for the girl who em
broiders is the "floss book." a long,
narrow book, bound in small-figured
cretonne, and tied with bows of rib
bon. The pages are of stiff cardboard,
covered with plain linen, with straps
for holding skeins of silk, linen or
mercerized cotton floss.
Bits About Bachelors.
Some are bachelors because they
loved too well; others because they
loved too many.
It dcJes not follow that a bachelor
is a woman-hater. He may be merely
a self-lover.
He who stays single because he
was once refused, may not be heart
broken; he may be merely lazy.
Respect the bachelor able to sew
on buttons, but beware of him who
darns liis own socks.
SUNDAY MORNING, JILLY 3, 1904.
PINK CHIFFON AND GUIPURE^
mirably to the 1830 skirt and require
no trimming, save very narrow ruch
ings of the same material. On the
skirt these ruchings are arranged in
festoons to form scallops, and are not
over an inch in width. They are even
narrower on the bodice and bell
shaped sleeves, and are employed in
various ways. If the blouse is shirred
all over the tiny ruchings outline the
cording. If the waist only is shirred
at the neck and bloused at the waist
line, then the ruching is laid on the
front of the waist in the form of a
lover's knot, a bowknot or a butterfly.
If bell sleeves are used, there are in
ner or half sleeves of valenciennes or
point de Paris lace. If the sleeves
are three-quarter puffs or elbow
length, they are finished with flounces
of the material, which in turn are fin
ished with tiny ruchings.
An exquisite costume of figured net,
recently finished for a tall blonde, was
stamped in Russian violets ar.d made
with a very full skirt, trimmed with
ruchings and worn over a drop skirt
of fine white lawn, edged with lace.
The bodice was made in surplice style,
with a transparent chemisette of fine
lace, and the same lace appeared as a
flounce for the puffed sleeves. With
this costume a sash of violet-colored
liberty satin is worn, caught at inter
vals with artificial Russian violets.
Stockings and satin slippers to match
complete a costume that will make a
belle of four seasons look like a debu
tante.
Dotted nets and all-over laces show
ing dots play a large part in the pret
ty frocks which are beginning to grace
the summer ballrooms. The deep
cream and ecru nets are almost as
popular as the pure white weaves, and
sometimes combine to better advant
age with colors. f
A young girl who has planned her
wardrobe with great care for a three
weeks' stay at the seashore has pro
vided only two dancing frocks, but
she frankly admits that she expects
MME DE RYTHER WRITES ABOUT PUDDINGS
MADAME MELBA once said to
the writer, "I love America.
It is a grfcat country, and
its hotels are the finest in
the world. I have only one fault to
find .with them—they never serve
those nice little puddings one finds
everywhere in Europe. How I miss
them! I would rather have one of
those puddings than all the other
dishes served at dinner."
Of course, the puddings to which
the great prima donna referred may
be made in large pudding dishes cind
served in individual portions, but most
puddings are daintier and more pre
ventable when small. Although it
is more' trouble to make several lit
tle puddings than one large one, the
result is so satisfactory that it war
rants all the trouble.
Americans are not so much given
to puddings as are the English. In
this country puddings are considered
rather heavy. Pierre Blot, the great
French chef, once said that the Eng
lish had to eat puddings *o drive the
heavy fogs from their stomachs.
Here are directions for a few light
American puddings, to be made in lit
tle dishes. They are most delicious,
easily prepared, and not at all expen
sive.
Take, first of all, the rice pudding
without eggs, commonly called "a
poor man's pudding." There is noth
ing daintier in the line of desserts.
To make the pudding, carefully pick
over, but do not wash, four generous
teaspoonfuls of rice. Put it in the top
kettle of a double boiler, pour over
it a quart of rich milk, and stand the
kettle in the lower one, with enough
water to come up near the brim.
Stand the boiler over the fire, and let
the water boil gently, cooking the rice
in the milk till it is soft. After it has
cooked half an hour, add a saltspoon
ful of salt, four heaping tablespoon
fuls of granulated sugar, and two tea
spoonfuls of extract of vanilla. Stir
these all carefully through the milk
and rice. When the whole has cooked
till the rice is very soft, stir in half
a pint of rich cream.
Then distribute the pudding evenly
among as many pint or half-pint pud-
to attend at least four hops each week,
and yet not be conspicuous by wear
ing the same dress repeatedly. One
of the frocks is a plain net, in what
is known as the natural cone; that is,
about the same shade as the natural
pongee.
The other is an embroidered Swiss.
The net is made with ruchings of the
same color and material, is cut with
a square neck and elbow sleeves, and
has three slips to be worn with it.
They are all of silk, and were picked up
during the past winter und spring at
ridiculously low prices. One is of a
yellow, which tones peculiarly but per
fectly into the «iet, and this the girl
proposes to wear when she wants to
be particularly dressy and indulge in
detollete effects. With the yellow
drop skirt and waist lining, she will
wear a yellow sash made in a rosette
at the back and ending in long stream
ers, which at intervals are tacked into
the semblance of a knot and caught
with small yellow roses that tone into
the silk.
The corsage is outlined by a garni
ture of foliage and yellow roses to
match those in the sash. Another
slip is violet-hued, and with this she
will wear a tucker of violet mousse
line, appliqued with tiny silk violets
outlined with silver thread. A cor
sage bouquet, with a few violets and
many long, slender, graceful stems,
and a girdle of violet messaline com
plete this pretty costume.
The third slip is in the exact tone of
the net, and with this she will wear a
Lucker and sleeve ruffles of repousse
lace, with a soft silk girdle to match,
while a touch of color will be given
by natural flowers. The, net dress
was a pattern, with ruchings already
made and applied, for which she paid
$10. She had it fitted by v the house
to-house dressmaker, who has made
up most of her simple, but effective,
wardrobe.
The embroidered swiss shows a
small fleur-de-lis and is of exquisite
ding dishes as it will fill. Grate some
nutmeg over the top of each, stand
them in a moderate oven, and bake
till they are a nice brown over the
top. While the}- are baking, take a
long-handled spoon a silver knife
and stir each pudding up from the
bottom two or three times.
Serve these puddings ice cold, with
flecks of currant jelly over the top.
Here is a delicious cream tapioca
pudding:
Boil in a double boiler a ciuart of
milk very slowly, adding a saltspoon
ful of salt. While boiling, gradually
stir in a quarter of a pound of pre
pared tapioca and let the milk simmer
till the tapioca is soft. When done
so that' the whole is thick and clear,
remove the saucepan from the fire,
and stir in the yolks of three egg's
and four heaping tablespoonfuls of
sugar, which have been whipped to
a cream. Add a teaspoonful of va
nilla extract, a quarter of a grated
nutmeg, and a gill of cream.
Return the double boiler to the fire,
and let the pudding cook about two
minutes very gently. Then stir it
well, and pour it in little pudding
moulds. Let it get thoroughly cold
and set like jelly. Then {urn out of
the moulds, and serve with whipped
cream.
Chocolate Pudding.—Beat the yolks
of four eggs and four tablespoonfuls
of sugar to a cream, add a saltspoon
ful of salt and a salfspoonful of grated
nutmeg. Whip all up together, and
add a pint and a half of rich milk.
Pour this in the top of a double boil
er, stand it over the fire, and, after it
begins to cook, stir in a quarter 6i a
pound of sweet grated chocolate and
a level teaspoonful of cornstarch dis
solved in a gill of milk.
When the pudding has cooked gent
ly to the consistency of thick cream,
pour it in little pudding dishes and
cover the top with the whites of three
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, with half
a pound of powdered sugar.
Stand the puddings in the oven long
enough to slightly brown the merin
gue over the top; then stand in a
cool pl^e.
Boiled Indian Pudding.—Stir into a
quality. As the girl is tall, she can
stand a yoke, but she has selected a
pattern which shows four deep points,
in back, front and sides, formed by
three rows of fine insertion. The skirt,
which barely misses the ground and
consequently will please her dancing
partners mightily, has three rows of
the insertion above the narrow hem.
A Dutch neck finishes the blouse,
which is gathered into a high, tight
fitting girdle of the Swiss. This will
be hidden by the ribbon girdles she
may elect to wear with the frock. The
sleeves are puffed to the elbow and
finished with embroidery to match the
insertion.
The absolute simplicity of the cos
tume will make it inconspicuous, and
the girl will have many dainty acces
sories to wear with it. One of these
is a deep 1830 bertha made from
strips of the embroidered swis'.; and
insertion, in points to match those on
the skirt yoke. Among her girdles
is one of pure white, with gold
buckles, which she will wear with the
white bertha. A pompadour sash is
one of her treasures, and she has a flat
garniture of rose leaves to wear with
it. English women spend much
money and ingenuity on -artificial
flower garniture, and American girls
are beginning to use them. But they
must be of exquisite quality.
Among the materials in delicate
tints which lend themselves well to
dancing frocks arc the sheer batistes
in single tones and the new wash chif
fons, -which are plain and delicately
figured. Exquisite embroideries and
delicate laces are combined with the
batiste, and where the chiffon is ac
cordion-pleated there are remarkable
skirt yokes and panels of lace which
fit over the pleating.
A peculiar but attractive color
combination was shown at a recent
social function. It was pale blue and
lavender. The drop skirt was of
lavender silk, and the over-dress of
pale blue silk mousseline. The
pint of boiling milk one cupful of yel
low corn meal, and boil it steadily for
ten minutes. Then remove it from
the fire, and add three tablespoonfuls
of sugar, half a cupful of butter, the
yolks of two eggs well beaten, half
a cupful of currants, and a teaspoonful
of extract of vanilla. When the mix
ture is well, blended, pour it into a
well buttered pudding mould, clo 1 c it
securely, stand in a kettle of boiling
water, and boil steadily for three
hours. Serve hot, with cream and
maple sugar. This is a large pudding.
JULE DE RYTHER.
This Will Tempt the Appetite.
A pretty and appetizing gift to any
one' that is ill is a basket of orange
and lemon jelly in orange skins. Cut
the tops from several thin-skinned
oranges and through this opening re
move the pulp. Fill the skins with a
stiff orange or lemon jelly, and stand
them upright until the jelly is hard.
Then put on the covers and arrange
the oranges in a pretty basket.
Lemon Jelly and Charlotte Russe.
An attractive way to serve • lemon
jelly is to combine it with charlotte
russe. With a sharp knife, chop stiff
lemon jelly into cubes and put three
or four tablespoonfuls of it on each
plate. In the centre of each mound of
jelly place two or three small lady
fingers, and over all pile vanilla-fla
vored, sweetened whipped cream.
Morning Bonnets for Wee Girls.
Quite the cutest bonnets shown for
wee girls this season ar-e the regular
sunbonnet shapes in white pique or
duck, |vith face ruffles of colored lawn
or charobray. The ruffles are in pink,
blue, American beauty red and pale
green, to match linen frocks of the
same shades, and they are made with
plain hems or edged with narrow lace.
And Now It's Wicker!
The newest 'thing in parasol handles
is the wicker finish. The knob or
crook end is used, and a bow of rib
bon matches the color prevailing in
the cover. These wicker handles are
especially effective with pongee para
sols.
DOTTED SWISS AND ' INaE^TIOTSI
mousseline was. laid in two-inch puffs,
so that the lavender tint showed
through in elusive shadings. The
bodice was shirred in three rows
around a low Dutch neck, and had
a pointed bertha of renaissance lace
dyed to match the blue in the mousse
line. The girdle was of lavender, and
the streamers were caught at inter
vals with silk violets.
Blue is popular for evening gowns,
and lace dyed die same tint is used
a good deal in trimming. Pale green
and white are combined, batiste and
plain and embroidered chiffon being
used with fine laces. Triple skirts and
triple elbow sleeves are much affected
by tall girls, but, like shirred cos
tumes, they must be avoided by the
short girl inclined to embonpoint.
There is a marked absence of the me
dallions seen so much last summer,
and wide or narrow insertions are pre
ferred.
Dainty girlish wraps in fichu form
Smart Colors Are the Vogue.
Last summer white reigned su
preme at the more fashionable re
sorts. This year the pendrlum has
swung in the direction of the most
violent colorings. The smartest reefer
and loose coat effects are reseda
green, American Beauty red, Yale
blue, and strong tones of lavender
and purple. These coat:-, heavily cm
hroidered and braided in cloth and
silk, are to be worn with whiie dresses
and colors with which they naturally
tone.
Mrs. Sully's Needlework.
Mrs. Daniel Sully, who has been
much in the public eye as the wife
of the ex-cotton king, is said tr be
one of the most expert needle women
in America. Her embroidery is equal
to the much vaunted convent work,
and her favorite gift for a bride- in
her intimate circle of friends, is a
trousseau of lingerie worked entirely
by her own hands, from seams to
monogram.
Pique Trimmings for Summer Gowns.
Of all the fantastic trimmings em
ployed on summer gowns, there is
none more striking than the appliqued
designs done in pique on such deli
cate fabrics as silk mull. These ap
pliques are outlined with heavy em
broidery or braid, and show the most
conventional patterns, principally in
border effects.
Men's Ties Are Dainty This Summer.
Washable ascots and four-in-hands
for men this year show all the dainti
ness of madras and damask displayed
in shirt-waist patterns for women. For
twenty-five cents a man can secure an
ascot tie in satin-finished basket weave
that will launder and retain its sheen.
Satin stripes and small figures, such
ris fleur-de-lis and bowknots, also ap
pear on the satin-finished madras.
Parasols.
Parasols are now offered in all the
taffeta and louisine checks used in
shirt-waist suits, black and white,
brown and white, and blue and white
being the most popular. A tight
fitting cover to match the parasol and
a smart bow in ribbon of the same 1
sized check go to make up a pretty
ensemble for the shirt-waist suit.
will be used for going to and from
the dances. Taffetas and China silks
are much used. They are trimmed
with numberless little flounces or
ruchings of the same material. Fichus
of batiste, lawn and chiffon are also
popular.
Dainty fans and chains go with
these simple dancing dresses. an<!
there is nothing prettier th?.n the
flower fans, which come in both silk
and paper. Roses and poppies of
various hues are most used, and when
the fan is closed it looks like a bou
quet. The summer fan is much larger
than the diminutive bit of gauze and
spangles seen during the winter. They
are prettily spangled and painted on
chiffon and gauze.
Incidentally, the summer dancing
frock which costs the mo-;t is of silk
gauze spangled with silver or gold
and made with girdle of cloth of gold
or cloth of silver to match the spang
ling.
-t— : : «
How Mrs. Schwab Keeps
Her Servants
Mrs. Charles Schwab has her own
way of settling the servant-girl ques
tion. The average woman of wealth
employs a housekeeper and turns all
details of Lhe household over to her.
Not so Mrs. Schwab. She is the head
of her own household, employs all
the under-servants, and, what is more,
keeps them. She issues all orders
and audits all bilis. She knows wh tt
is going on in the servants' hali as
well as in her own drawing-room.
One of her hobbies, in dealing with
servants, is the anniversary gift. Each
servant, on the first anniversary day
of entering Mrs.^Schwab's service, re
ceives $50 in gold, and the gift is re
peated at earli anniversary.
Mrs. Schwab has in her service two
Scottish girls who have been with her
eight years, and they visit their
homes, at her expense, at certain in
tervals. Two Irish girls have been
with her for six^years.
Servants who have been particu
larly faithful in her employ arc al-o
remembered with occasional tickets
for the best theatres. If Mrs. Schwab
incidently selects plays which will
teach the lesson of caste, th^t in no
wise detracts from their pleasure.
When Mrs. Schwab moves into her
palatial residence on Riverside Drive
New York, there will be one hundred
and five rooms, for which a staff of
servants must care, and still she ex
pects to be her own housekeeper.
Newest Offering in Luncheon Cases.
For the automobile picnic the new
est offering in luncheon cases is a deep
dress-suit case fitted out as a picnic
basket. A complete service of white
agate ware, knives, forks, cases for
sandwiches, pickles, etc.. an alcohol
lamp, small coffee pot and other es
sentials for an impromptu lunch are
deftly packed into the case.
The Curtain Veii.
Among the recent importations are
lace veils, 52 inches square, which are
just now the rage on foreign race
tracks. They arc draped over the en
tire hat and permitted to fall over the
xace like a curtain.