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The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, November 13, 1904, Image 5

Image and text provided by Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059523/1904-11-13/ed-1/seq-5/

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IN PARIS the first week of October
ends the period of uncertainty in
regard to the winter modes. .The
new ideas and creations ;. have all
been launched, and approved and disap
proved as the case may be. It is fully a
month later when such comfortable. sure
ty fettles down on" New York. ; Imported
models have arrived ~- by v- every steamer
for six or eight weeks back—indeed ;, have
had showing here" almost simultaneously
with their exhibit in Paris. The exclu
sive shops have exhibited their carefully
; chosen models -to ;" their ■ even.' more: care
fully chosen cli'en : ' the • big' department
stores : have \ held "openings." / But /It 1 re
mains for the Horse Show to present the
new season's styles in actual use—
by the wealthiest and most critical of
well-dressed women in this land 'of : the
well dressed. .-;• v , —; "/--.' .».. v
; What passes muster at the New '. York
Horse. Show is safely assured a season's
favor—often two." ' One"-half the world
goes to be seen—the other half gladly
pays its dollars for the .privilege of see
ing. And it is doubtful which enjoys it
the more. And the ' Horse, oh! the Horse
Is the excuse for it .'all,' you know, and
'should be satisfied with his position 'a?'
stage setting for " all this finery r V and
beauty. -p;>- . ' '-:'.■-.' -3--r:

Of course, it's already decided Just what
is to be worn by .the Horse Show Girl—
and a peep behind certain doors * gives
plenty of advance information. V « .
Firstly, as 'to fabrics; they. will be
lustrous* and supple.. Velvets and velvet
eens easily take the lead both in popu
larity and beauty; soft cloths of the
variety /termed "chiffon,"-.old-fashioned
cashmeres,' henriettas and brilliant' pop
lins; crepe de: chines woven in ; double
widths/like the cloths; and silks of won
derful softness and luster are all favor
ite materials"-for:' Horse Show, costumes.
,There is. a decided tendency 'toward"
Plain, lines in the skirts—the simple, skirt
showing as a splendid foil for the elab
orate coat or bodice that usually accom
panies it. *. - ; : : /
, 4 • ••- j. v ■■-;... ■„;_
And it is also • worth: noting : ' that the
extreme of exaggeration of " fullness Is
noticeably absent in the best of the new
skirt syles. Truth to tell, the best mod
els from - the, best - Paris :.- artists £ have .
avoided extremes . in 1 this as In all de
tail. But tber* , is. never;>tHess. r a more
than^suggestion' of. crinoline •in . these
latest' skirts! * Various ; methods are re
sorted to to hold them: about the"- feet—
thus preserving the proper x "balance" to
the figure. Paris , makers 7 tried ~} wire
hbops. and again a heavy cord, almost i
a rope, was run in the hem and at the
bead of the ruffle.': And drop >skirts'r with
two overlapping ''■ double ruffles: on the •
outside and three set In in the inside, are
u«ed by some. Lightest and most effect
ive of all is the flounce of princess hair
cloth that Is of featherweight lightness;
this is more graceful than stiff steels, and
less cumbersome than the too many
• • »
There will be as many varieties of
sleeves at the Horse Bhow as there are
gtrls. Indeed, one wonders If the next
phase will not be to have the two sleeves
of th« gown different, in order that this
desire for "variety" in sleeves may not
be limited by the number of gowns one
But here again is there a tendency to
ward moderation in the best models. And
the woman who aims to be truly well
dressed fights shy of exaggeration and ex
tremes in sleeves as In all else. Indeed,
some-of the smartest" of the severe suits
that will find initial ajring next week will
show sleeves of the plain leg-of-mutton
type, smooth and snug below the elbow,
and with a very moderate fulness shirred
Into the armscye.
. . .
The evening wraps are long and loose
extremely loose—if not in reality capes.
The more rich the materials of these the
more simple the lines on which they are
One exquisite coat is shown In a Fifth
avenue shop, which the proprietor respect
fully announces will grace a box next
week, is of dead "white suede with wide
bands of Russian sable for a border. Its
rather deep yoke x back and front ia
heavy with gold and Jeweled embroid
eries. Tl )e >ining is a faint pink satin with
a raised gold trooade.
• • •
In spite of the prevalence of the long
coat in suils and evening wraps there
are a number of very smart models in
short coats being shown. One of these.
in burnt broadcloth, falls in loose but
straight lines from the shoulder to six
inches below" the waistline, the broad,
close collar continuing as revers to this
point. From under this collar springs a
Jaunty shoulder cap that is the feature
of the garment. Rows of narrow black
silk braid trim the revers. with loops of
the braid and cloth covered buttons as a
finish. The edges of the cape show many
close rows of machine stitching in the
beautiful! regular oscillating stitch.
• • •
Has ever there been a daughter of
Eve who did not long for a tunic skirt?
All too often her ambitions in this
line cannot be realized because of inches
or avoirdupois. But none the less this
lurking weakness for the double-skirted
effect ig accountable for each season, giv-
ing as one or two splendid models in
this delightful but dangerous mode. One
that has just passed the customs is of
mauve chiffon cloth, the tunic being
really a short polonaise that flu perfect
ly smooth over the bust and about the
waist and hips. Below the hip Une it
ripples gracefully. The body extends up
over a yoke of heavy cream lace Over
this Is worn a v*-ry short and full Eton
that fastens on the It ft side with a soli
tary button, and is cut away sharply to
disclose the pretty yoke and the well
defined lines of the figure. The tunic, the
skirt snd the empiecement on the little
coat are marked by many lines of sou
tache braid in a darker shade of mauve.
• • •
A late wooltcx model shews a splendid
blending of severity with judicious elabo
ration. Thi s has a rather plain skirt, the
only decoration being rows on rows of
stitching of the oscillating stitch machine.
The coat is three-quarters length, the
hip pieoes set on with a seam, and above
the waist the coat is slashed up smartly
in a short Eton that opens over a vest
and waistcoat which may be made as
elaborate as the heart desires, or the
purse permits.
• • •
With the appearance of the more ele
gant suits for winter the separate blouse
—the third piece of the three-piece "suit
takes on added interest in the feminine
eye. And the blouses of this sea.«on are
certainly triumphs, and fit to bring con
fusion to the enemy who has cried "the
separate waist must go.*' Soft mulls and
chiffons *■ in ecru {• and white. inset with
laces ':.■ and -„ fanciful with shlrrings,t;are
worn \ with the richest of velvet and \ vel
veteen v.» costumes. Deep ~- feath«rboned
gird 1 es" are : the Invariai)le: accompaniment
of these little blouses. The girdle 'r may,
.match the blouse, or may contrast with
it, just as proves ' the : most 'eft ecU veVL"" -"*"
■ ■ *
Among dress ." accessories % belts easily
hold 1 most '■ important place at :, the ; present
moment. «J Their styles are legion, from
', the wide girdle that reaches well up under
the bustllne. and is really almost : a bodice. |
to the three-Inch belt—one rarely sees 1 one I
narrower. > Sole leathers divide : the hon
orji with still 7 softer silks. And, by the
•way. even the J; most sanguine :- prophet |
would ; not , have predicted i the vogue • for.
leather i belts i that they have reached this
season. For j many years we A were J given '
to understand i that the leather J belt ! gave"
a "harsh' 1 waistline, and %while iit i might
be smart in some instances, could ' hardly
;be considered a thing of beaut}*. But the
: leather people were not to be worsted by
this argument. So when leather belts
came back to us a little more than a year
"ago" they, were in leathers as soft and as
: pliable • almost as. the ; supplest sof j silk/;
and the crush -leather: belt Instead of : ln
-1 creatinghhz waistline; decreased " it. : \, i ■;''■
The \ first Western novel translated - in
to • Japanese '-. was '- Ernest n travers, t by
ißuiwerS Lytton This was in 1879. .; It
: was published under ~ the poetic :» title:
—■ ,-."*•" *- -.^ -■ —».*"■■-*-1- jj*"--^»^—^_~^~ * ■ "
"A Spring Story ror < r*k»wers and Wil
.lows." The ? latest V fiction J'-:'overl; which
Japan is poring—in stores, banks, com
mission f bouses, railway and steamship
houses—is The Letters sfof £a£ Self-Made
Merchant !i to *i His Sob. and pirated at
that! - The i lack *ofran ] : international copy
right law and the lax literary m.iraiity
of the ; Japanese has robbed Mr. Lorimer
rofi a : royal ty on more than * 200,000 copies
which _£ have been _ sold i. In the I Sunrise .
; Kingdom. j; But Mr. Lorimer ; has some
revenge; "; the J Japanese clerks -** have j^to
read it as a text book! "In the "Japanese
appraisement ;of the book," ■ says ' Harold
Bolce \in * his entertaining ;• article."- "What
; the Japanese are Reading" :in the No
vember ■ number of The , Booklovers*; Mag
azine, ?' "its r] humorJX was entirely " over
■ looked. The - production was accepted
solely as a • serious ] gospel Ito ; over-confi
dent young ~ manhood." And yet cJapan
is not so far astray in its estimate of the
I book, which does ; preach a first-rate busi
| ness gospel '< in homely ■\ language.: '. ; But
j piracy/ and even 5 plagiarism are. not con
sidered more ' than venial :2 offenses' ;in I
I Japan. r_ Many a"*j hard-worked :- preacher
| or editor will; sympathize with "* the liter
j ary workers tof Japan who make no
bones about ; appropriating? a ; good I thing
when they see it. without the ; formality
of : using i quotation . marks.' J Only. we ".. Oc-
I cidenUls ; are [ not so honest about - it. The
j Japs—"the > little, -brown "-' polyglots." as
I Mr. —1 Bolce appropriately •. and - pictures-
I quely calls them—look upon 5 plagiarism
"as •an indication of extensive and tena
cious memory," and * regard'":, the l use of
j Quotation > marks .-as; "an exhibition of
j uue^tSonable f taste" Aimric&n fiction Is
1: not: popular .in • Japan, but • science, philo-
I sophy . and poetry are. The '•■ writings \of
. Ira t. • Remsen. Simon *j Xewcomb. Edward
,• llolden. and David \ Siarr Jordan '•* are wtii
\ Known i.nd appreciated. ■Emerson; Whit
r tier** and Longfellow are enjoyed. Mark
. Twain, so far, "has failed in ; laughing
J= his way into " Japan." whereas in | Russia
( he ' shares the honors with [ Grover; Cleve
i : land: Jap-r. isf an empire of < pot is. The
'r present Mikado ' lias ; mitten ; matly jO.OOO
odes, "but as a Japanese ode consists^ of
• only 31 syllables, and :as rhyme, reason
•«ud 'I metre are alike ignored" the Im
j perial output may be reverently dis
• counted. The mass of the peopls. however,
■•* like Western nations, are great news
-t paper and jnisgazice readers "More than
r-'a ■-thousand • newspapers and f, magazines
are 1 published 'in 7 the empire.. The Im
perial Public Library at Toklo has; half
a million volumes.V- nearly 1,000 :of which
are printed .in the '■_ languages .of Europe."
Notwithstanding: this avidity to read, the
dally press is not .^enterprising. ~. It.; does
not push J its circulation or sell I its wares
on:. the streets. To , get ;a r copy - you must
go to the office of publication. But Japan
I is ahead of the West in that nearly every
newspaper has a ' "prison editor, v whose
! duties consist in going -»o jail7and;stahd^
I ing t trial ' for. any offense committed . byy the"
I Journal. J; This representative of some of
! the r more :- independent^ papers 5 spends Ja_
j large portion of his time in 5 prison, either
j awaiting "the '• hearing of ,-' his case ?or in
i serving out V the ■'? term of his sentence.
j Even ; when out of •!the4 toils, he has no
■ editorial duties to perform. His salary
j Is larger than ? that i, of most of | his col
j leagues, and - n his C position -ism V demand.
j He enjoys ? the = sonorous title of C Editor
\ in-Chief4and when be is behind < the bars
I the actual editor is 1 classed by the jour
-5 leal |in question ;as merely a contributor!"
zNo wonder the makers .of - comic opera! go
.to the East for their ideas. The West
1 cannot match its serious whimsicality or.
i its sophistical subterfuges:
:"The highway along which civilisation
1 moves is 2 the railroad ,V-r says Day Allen
Willey. in describing the j new automatic
: tracklayer in the November number
The Booklovers Magazine. In the West
and Southlß4: per. rcent of the ! railroad
*. construction ■of t the ■ first v half of j 1904 was
made. Civilization Is thus, evidently,
going westward at a rapid rate. In the
tracklaying methods of the East, "the
construction train rumbles up to the end
of the completed track, the rails for the
next section are taken from the storage
rare, dumped upon the ground with a
clang, then carried to their place and
fciowly lowered upon $he ties. A dozen
brawny laborers stretch their muscles in
unloading the rails, and a score more do
the carrying." Contrast this with the
Western methods. Ties and rails are car
ried over ;in improvised railway, or roll
way, that traverses the length of the con
struction train of flat cars. Enough ties
are caried on a little tie-carrying car to
support 60 feet of track. While the ties
are being placed In position, the work
men have bolted four rails into pairs.
and, placing them on the roliway, start
them lor their destination. A "dolly'" or
miniature suspension bridge, extends
over the end of the last car and "lets
the rails down easy" on to the ties. So
quickly is the work done "that the, train
is at once pushed ahead over the newly
laid track, which is completely spiked to
the tits while the material for the next
section Is being hauled over the 'elevated
ways. 1 Thus the train can be moved for
ward 60 feet at a time. And so it hap
pens that the .locomotive has whistled for
the first time in many a Western town
which the day € before was not within
hearing distance." Nearly a third of a
mile can belaid by the automatic track
layer in an "hour, and Western engineers
boast of having been able" to lay three
miles of completely ballasted and TSnished.
"permanent wa"y" in a day on the leve-1
prairies of the West. .

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