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* ■ — p -.i ■ i i i i■■ ■i. ——- —i . , -..—.. .._ ______^___^_^^^^^_ • . » y .. . "* *J •'^»'' * -*i*" »■ - • «.■* ***fci "^V •**<>*» i. ■■'2t:*'.!"i\ r'i "* .V- 7 .*". - *^f * --t\ .^Kl^^F^ "^ .■■'"-*"•• ■ ' •%f - .^^.ii. .-. » ,' femininity J)s ihe Keynote pfrAilMi New frills and put befows — fluffiness Grows in Neckvfear and fichus — J'us pender fixings : in Black VslntZibbim Especially Smart- Ribbons of the flicst Marvelous Weaves &)iil Glorify Simple j?rccks-£ac3 Em broidered, Braided, Jet Off by Buttons Js in Demand for Berthas — Quaintest £ff eels Are Secured in the [few Under sleeves •*->'. «-vr"> r*v BN" the days when silks and satins "stood alone" and velvets were al most as thick as carpets, there were special bandboxes for the holding of certain trifles. These were called "necktie boxes," but undersleeves lay In them as well, also berthas, sashes, tuckers and other little accessories of the toilette. At a moment's notice the plainest frock could be smartened up by these dainty details, which were exquisite m finish and most feminine in qua Necktie boxes are not spoken of nowadays, but all the pretty trifles they once held are again the rage. To them have been added numberless other details — among them separate petticoat flounces which may be but toned on in an instant: bodice sus penders and girdles of ribbon or tinsel, and perhaps a floral "drapery which may form the bertha and sleeves for mi evening waist. The value of these detached trim tnings is eyeiy where recognized. an<f In the smart millinery establishments Ihey are made with as much care as »re hats themselves. The shops like r. is.' show them in all their ramifica tions in less expensive form, and tak ing mental patterns these, the deft heedlewomen reproduces them cheaper. . A long with the dressy stocks.which are daily .mowing- more elaborate, may be encountered sometimes an embroidered Queer Conceits in fancy Sees cjpHL, caterer of today is as much a student of. pleasing designs ami effective color combinations as ?s bis brother in the world of sculpture and art. Whatever collation he serves be in keeping with the spirit of the day or of the company for whom the function is given, and it is par ticularly in the preparation of sher bets nnd ices that his ingenuity is called Into play and his imagination allowed a wide field. Simple repasts for'children's parties he changes into wonders of amusement and delight by LUghable shapes in which the ico cream appears. Betrothal or bachelor dinners have their purport symbolized in the delicate forms of the ices, which are also transformed into emblems of ies and organizations for club and tiade banquets. Yuletide festivities for youngsters brought out most novel conceits for the .serving of refreshments, that all important part of a child's ■ entertain ment. The last course of a little-chap's luncheon for his boy and girl friends consisted of individual ices in the form of roosters,.- bears or elephants cun ningly wrought in ice cream and water ices of many colors. . The souvenirs were toy roosters with real : feathers' These gay cocks could be made to crow by blowing a rubber tube at tached, and the noise attendant" on that last course was equal to a barnyard chorus. Ice cream in the form of roses tulips, etc.,: or showing the shape anti color of peaches, grapes and pears al ways^, delight childish fancies. . One popular hostess served Santa and his reindeer to her little guests at a Christ mas tree "party. At another; luncheon . given by - two clever girls to a prospective bride, th* fourth course was a wedding < ring .1 of orange sherbet, while an ice cream heart, pierced with a lart .of rasp berry ice, served for the dessert. The souvenir -for the engaged girl - was a Email doll dressed in complete bride's get-up, with satin. dress, tulle veil . and imitation orange ; blossoms. "Each: of the other guests received a doll.dressed in orange crepe paper with, jaunty hat and parasol, and : forming the cover 1 for a candy, box. • The individual ices fo<- : this same- bride's 'wedding breakfast were bells and clusters of:orange blos soms. ". ' ■ :"■ . .-■■■:"- -;:<■,. ■■.-/■ ;■"■-"■•-■•'■ A waving American flag, done in red, white and blue, is one caterer's favorite method of preparing- ices for holiday functions. kittle busts of George Wash ington in pistachio ice cream," bunches of cherries in cardinal sherbet against leaves of pistachio cream, or hatch c-ts in chocolate ice cream malce unique and appropriate desserts for the twen ty-second of February. The chef of a fashionable hotel re eeiHly off-red perfect models of motor cars with tonneaux attached, done in Ice cream, at an immense banquet for an automobile club. But outdoing all others in its exquisite work.m;in.shii» was the center piece for a wealthy artist's bachelor dinner. This youn«» benedict has a. Gibsonesque girl for his future helpmate, and a beautiful bust of the fair lady in peach ice ereivn adorned the table during the last course of the meal. linen set Avbich includes a belt. These are worked in rich colors and smarten morning house frocks. Scarfs of silk, matching the needlework, tie the turn over cellar and cuffs, the belt fastening generally with white or colored but tons. For the same gowns there are 'also turn-over collars and cuffs of pleated lawn in delicate pinks and blues, while some imported outdoor sets — these including a wide crush girdle—are of coarse blue or red lin ens, with the scarfs and b.elt of tartan silks. Such, sets are frequently seen w.ith plain wool shirtwaist frocks, which, topped by a belted tourist coat in rough tweed, makes an admirable shop ping or traveling dress. For the suspender fixings which the shops ohow, flowered silk liobons or black velvet are the most satisfactory mediums. A touch of black velvet with color is always enhancing, and some of the skeleton jackets which are seen in the satin faced ribhons build up pale and plainish waists to points of as tonishing elegance. One such set had a latticework of six suspender straps crossed in the back, where sash ends of wide bias velvet knotted gracefully. This topped a bodice in violet voile, whose matching skirt was trimmed solely with a deep bias of the same fabric. ' Another pretty suspender fix ing was in the form of two shoulder straps, tying at -the bust in fluffy bows, and held in at the waist by a belt also tying in a bow. This was of a brown- Chicken Creams for • painty puncheons WITH the season of entertaining at Hood tide, the hostess is on the lookout for new dishes with which to grace Ifer feast, whether it be at lunch or dinner. If the dish appears in a novel gruise or arouses the curiosity of the guests, so much the better. Here are some receipts contributed for just the sort of fancy dishes suited to for mal functions: • Fish Souffle—Put three-quarters of a pint of milk into a saucepan with a small onion, a piece of parsley, one or two thin strips of lemon peel, two cloves, and a little celery salt and pep per. Let it simmer on the back of the stove for twenty minutes. Then thick en the milk with si^j rounding table spoonsful of flour which has been mixed to a smooth paste, with a small quantity of cold milk, and stir until a very thick sauce is formed, adding, from time to time, two tablespoonsful of butter. Remove the onion, lemon peel and cloves and mix the sauce with one and a half pounds of raw white fish which has been passed through a mincer (the fish must be weighed after being minced), and pound it in a mortar. Then add the yolks of fduc <?ggs by degrees, pounding one into the mixture before adding the other; then pass it through a sieve and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Add a pinch of salt, to the whites of the eggs and whisk them to a stiff froth. Add them to the prepared fish, and place the mix ture at once in a buttered souffle mold. Tie a pie-e of greased paper over the H©W ITHLIHN WOMEN HOLD THEIR BEAUTY WHY do Americans come to Rome?" asked one American of another as they sat watching the stream of Americans pass by. 'It is to study the women of Rome," said the other. "I mudt confess that, though I visit Italy every winter the women are a never ending source of in terest and admiration. "•There are certain things about the Italian women which are most admirable. They hold their youth better than they used to hold it, and the beautiful Italian of today staya young until she Is an old woman. True, she ia not like the French woman, who never grows old. But she stays young until she is agod, indeed. But her admirable point is the beauty of her middle life. "It is in her mature years that the Italian woman Is the most beautiful. As a young girl she is lovely, and there is a something about her that is arch and graceful. But it is when in her full ma turity that she shines, actually blooms. She comes forth then and gleams. She bursts out from the bud which, though pretty, was far from perfect, into the most ideal flower without one flaw. "The Italian woman of twenty is not yet in her full beauty. Like Calve and like many other of her land, she Is not at her best until the is thirty and even thirty - five. "The Italian woman ts of the type known as voluptuous, but she is not really THE ST. PAUL GLOBE. SUNDAY, JANUARY 15, 1905 ish ribbon with a brilliant green and black border, the dainty latticework, going over the shoulders of a waist in brown chiffon. Ribbons with handsome contrasting borders' shape a number of the prettiest shop fixings, though sometimes the brilliant edges are made by applied bands of ribbon velvet. If a rich effect must be obtained black velvet or black satin is always called into account, and the handsomest of the imported rib bons invariably have a black border. Chiffon is another material whose glorifying possibilities are many, for, despite the delicacy of this airy tex tile, winders can be done with It. Pleated'and pinched and twisted into bewildering forms, some of the chiffon neck fixings and muffs are as surpris ing as magic. Several shades of white may be deftly blended "together, the fringe-like pleatings of the muff open ings and those which deck the stole falling with the suggestion of garland ed flowers. If the chiffon confection is strictly for evening, it may be cunningly blend ed with artificial flowers, and shaded shoulder capes so conceived are some times seen as opera muffings. One pleated pelerine with stole ends in shaded salmon was garlanded at the neck with crepe roses in pure white. The gown this flame-like, detail embel lished was of white satin made with al most a puritan plainness, except for a wjsp of salmon velvet which held the very low waist over the shoulders. fancy Wishes for formal Affairs top, and steam it gently for three quarters of an hour; if it is not firm to the touch then allow a little longer. Serve the souffle turned out of the mold and surrounded by shrimp sauce, and just before sending it to the table scat ter a little finely chopped parsley over the top. Shrimp Sauce—Mash half a can of shrimps. Add a slice of onion and a bay leaf, cover with a pint of cold water and simmer gently for thirty minutes. Strain and add one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour rubbed together Stir until smooth and boiling. Add the remaining shrimps, well washed and dried, a teaspoonful of salt and a good dash of pepper. Set in a pan of hot Water ten minutes and serve. Surprise Kidneys — Take as many kidneys as required for the estimated number of diners and fry lightly on both sides, having split them in halves. Make a good suet crust, roll it out and divide it into as many portions as there are kidneys. Place a thin slice of lean bacon or ham with the kidneys and en close each one in a portion o£_the suet crust, folding over into oval shape. Place the suet balls in a basin or large pie dish, cover with a greased paper, and steam for two hours in a large pan of boiling water. Serve on a hot dish, surround-with thick gravy, and garnish with thin slices of toast or a border of sliced cooked carrots and turnips. Plenty of savory gravy should accom pany this dish. Chicken Creams — Line some little chicken molds thinly with a coating of a voluptuous personality. In mind she is spirituelle. But in body voluptuous is the best -way to describe her. She is full in figure with big hip's, a broad chest, and a tiny little waist. Her neck is big and thick and her throat is wide, yet so eol iimnesque that it is never coarse. Her cheeks are round and plump and her head sets on her shoulders with what may be called a poise. "The Italian woman has a marvelous way of carrying herself. It is said of her that she gains this queenly poise from the peasant woman who carries her bur den on her head. The farming women, the laboring women, the fish wives, and the peasants of lower walks are all train ed^to carry their burdens on their heads. "Of course, the Italian woman of high degree has no such training. But she. somehow, gets in the way of carrying her head in a regal way. It may be that she learned it of some nurse in her baby days; it may be that she admired the walk of the peasants and imitated it- or it may be that, somewhere back in her an cestry, she got a drop of peasant blood and her head and her shoulders her proud walk and her lofty manner, all bear evidence of it." "I carry my head proudly." said an Italian woman who bore her head like a queen, "because I was taught that a lady should carry her head erect. Not for whole worlds would I drag my head in the dirt. I ana too proud to lower my chin At the theater and opera many ele gant points are noticed, which inex pensive shop things might imitate cor rectly. For example f the deep lace coL lars which fall as berthas from the neck of low-cut gowns are reproduced in form by many clever imitations which need only a little additional decoration to turn out quite splendid ly. Women who understand this buy coarse lace collars, and treat the pat tern to tinsel or black chenille outlin ings, sewing in beads, tiny buttons or minute chiffon flowers wherever they may be placed to advantage. So deco rated, a biscuit lace collar is admira ble with turquoise blue, which permits an effective sprinkling of little tur quoise stones. Biscuit lace with black chenille and jet is also an effective combination, and one admirably suited to a velvet or chiffon wjiist. The forms of the bodice decorations seen everywhere are almost too many to be counted. But girdles and fichu draperies are in the majority, and it is curious sometimes what very simple materials effect these. Any sort of glittering braid or bordered ribbon turns out a smart belt, whose dis tinguishing detail is most often a lad der of stiff bows or rosettes or fancy buttons down the front and back. A belt so conceived in white satin ribbon was accompanied by a fichu and un dersleeves of white mousseMne, em broidered and trimmed with ribbon edged flounces. The set glorified 'the simple little waist of white china silk pale aspic jelly or clear gelatine, and when the latter has set, fll ttoem with cream of chicken made according to the following directions:' Mix half a pint of cool aspic jelly with half a pint of nicely flavored bechamel sauce. Then add one pound of the white meat of a cooked chicken, which has been passed through a fine mincer, and. after beating the ingredients for a few minutes, fill the molds and put them aside in a cold place until they are re quired. Serve the chicken creams on a round support of aspic jelly and gar nish the dish with small cress. Bechamel Sauce —Put a tablespoon ful of butter into a saucepan. Add one tablespoonful of chopped carrots, one tablespoonful of chopped onion and a saltspoonful of celery seed, and "stir them until slightly browned. Add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well to gether and add a half cup of chicken stock and half a cup of milk. Stir the mixture until it boils and add a dash of salt and pepper. Strain and it is ready to serve. Almond Biscuits —Put half a pound of flour which has. been dried and sift ed, into a basin with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; mix the in gredients and then rub a quarter of a pound of butter into them, and as soon as this has been satisfactorily ac complished, mix the dry ingredients to a paste with a well-beaten egg, and add a few drops of almond essence. Roll out the paste on a floured board until it is quite thin, then cut into bid cuits and bake them In a hot oven till to. anybody. I walk with my head tossed high." And "with head tossed high." the Ital ian woman does indeed walk. She lifts her chin proudly and she becomes all the more beautiful from this habit, or trick, as one might call it. The Italian woman is naturally regular of profile. She is Grecian in her type, rather than Roman, as her proud, pretty featurlS will bear witness. She has a straight nose, rather long, and the nostrils are ful* though delicate. When she breathes and becomes excited these dilate showing that she Is of a sensitive type. When the Italian woman is a little girl her nose is trained. The Italian nurse "teaches the features how to grow." She takes the little nose In ■ her fingers many times a day and gives It a gentle pinch. It is taught to be straight and regular. It is taught to be pure Grecian. If it is too pointed at the tip it is pinched until it stops growing and it is turned up slightly to give it the retrousse lift. Though in Italy the "pug"' Is not considered such a mark of beauty as m Paris or in London, still the nose must be kept from growing long, at the end at any hazard, erea though it tilt a little. Made to Have Long Eyes The Italian child is also made to have long eyes. It 4s said that the father of Jane Hading, desiring his daughter to have loag oval shaped eyes, took her to with which it was shown. The waist was of the washable sort, and the get up suggested a convenient and inex pensive toilette for evening- use. Black net, plain or fancy, likewise lends itself to effective treatment, and in the form, of neck and sleeve ruffles it may shape stunning gaxnishings for plain black gowns. A neck ruffle with matching sleeve frills was of a striped fancy net, with discs of shaded flame satin sewn scatteringly down the thin portions. A deep girdle with a loop ing sash of the flame satin went with this set, paste buttons of flame color trimming the belt at the back. A number of the quainter waist trimmings are made only for the front of the waist and are there pinned on in the old bertha way. Festooned and rosetted, black bebe velvet is shaped with scarfs of lace into some of these front trimmings, while a corsage spray of flowers may have a downward drop, one knot pinning against the bust, one against the , belt and one dangling in a graceful end below. Bodice arrange ments in smaller flowers often include a looping network at the shoulder,? they are a pala brown. They should be carefully watched because they will burn quickly if the heat is at all fierce. When cold cover the top of the bis cuits with some sugar icing, made thus: Mix some confectioner's sugar (which has been sifted) with sufficient stiffly beaten white of egg to make a perfect ly smooth, pliable paste. Flavor it with a few drops of almond essence and spread it over the biscuits. Then cover the paste with some coarsely chopped almonds which have been blanched and baked until lightly browned, and leave the biscuits in a warm place until the icing is dry. Gateau of Fruit—Line a rather shal low mold with orange jelly flavored with orange brandy. Prepare some fruit of different kinds in the same way as for fruit salad, and leave them in some syrup, flavored with liqueur, for two or three hours before they are re quired Then fill the mold with them and pour in sufficient cool orange jelly to cover them. Turn from the mold, garnish with chopped pistachio nuts and little heaps of whipped cream. Claret and Banana Jelly—Put half a pint of water into a saucepan with a small piece of cinnamon, two cloves, the thinly pared rind of a lemon, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, nnd three bananas cut into moderately thin slices. Let the water gradually come to the boiling point and then simmer for fifteen minutes, when the pieces of banana should be carefully removed and put on a plate. Add one and a half ounces of gelatine to the liquid in an Italian specialist, and that great sur geon slit the skin at each coner of tha eyeball, giving the eyes the long, narrow look which is so much admired in Jane Hading. But this is a cruel way to lengthen the eyes, which should not grow long in that manner. Or, if there be such a secret, it is buried in the mind of the great Ital ian beauty specialist. But it is true that the Italians do train their beauties In other ways and that they do make their eyes big and full and lovely by coaxing and by beauty arts. An Italian child is never allowed to rub its eyes. It never cries. If it bursts into tears it is not repressed, but is allowed to have its cry out. This beautifies the eyes and makes them clear. The Amer ican woman, on the other hand, out of mistaken kindness, presses back the tears and the child is made to -wipe its eyes and stop crying. Often the eyeballs are fairly pushed back into their sockets, as the child is taught that it must not cry. The Italian woman never reads in a dim light: in truth, she never reads when she is indisposed. That is one of the secrets of ncr marvelous beauty. She takes a complete rest when she is not feeling ■well. The American woman doea not do this. Her idea is that she must not give* up. So she keeps going and keeps going until she drops. The woman of Italy, that lovely, languorous type, rests when she is out of soi-ts. She does >»'.»»♦♦»♦»♦♦♦•» ♦ > ♦ >♦♦»»■>•< which will form the entire sleeves. of ia/ low ?•; corsage, and .: running ~. down Z: the u ; back .5 of the waist, r. in some way, ~; fall ." j upon the skirt in sash ends. A draped;: • evening bodice of pink chiffon mousse line has .this epaulette and sash drap ery in pink roses - and ,'. forget-me-nots. Most beautiful are" some \of the com binations in these -; floral decorations, which • wonderfully enhance the pretti ; ness of airy evening frocks. Pink tint- " ( ed camelias are seen with pale violets, and more than; one fairy-like trail 5 will • show .the strange gold or silver buds " of the tinsel hot-house. ! : .:• It iis not enough for artificial ', flowers to ,be beautiful nowadays. : They must i express ?. something >- else — a ■/-'■ quality : I ethereal;: unnatural, haunting. And jtc get this, the ;bloom'siare/made of every- I thing j but - the honest 5 calicoes-, and vel vets and crepes which once alone simu lated the wealth of Flora.- ; , But to -go ■ back rto the ; necktie box i of ;ye ; olden time. .: The undersleeves : it. held were the daintiest of :its trifles,> ;.taking V; the ? form '" of : big . transparent puffs with close wristbands of '..some - sort. The same" species :of under- 'Biscuits fay * an Jtaiian Flavor the saucepan and stir It until it is dis solved, then remave the pan from the stove and strain it into a basin. Pour in a wineglass of port or sherry, the juice of half a lemon, and a pint of claret, which has been warmed by be ing placed in a basin of hot water and sufficient carmin coloring to make it a deep clear red. Then ascertain if any more sugar is required. Rinse a fancy mold which has a well in the middle, with cold water, and line it with a thin coating of the jelly, and when it is set decorate the mold all over with the slices of bananas, setting them with a little of the cool jelly. When the deco ration has set, fill the mold with the remains of the jelly, which should be quite cool and on the point of setting. When it is ready.unmold the jelly and fill ■ the middle with some whipped cream which has been sweetened, col ored a pale rose pink and mixed with the remainder of the bananas, after the latter have been passed through a hair sieve. Cucumber Sauce—Cook a small cu cumber, drain it well, and after cutting it into slices chop it coarsely into small dice-shaped pieces. Make rather more than half a pin* of thick mayonnaise dressing, using cucumber vinegar, in stead of white vinegar, and a small quantity of taragon vinegar. Then add about a tablespoenful of the chopped cucumber and a tablespoonful of pickled gherkins, also chopped, and leave the sauce either In a cold larder or on ice for a short time before it is required. not overtax her vitality. And she keeps in better health in consequence. The restful type of woman is the Italian woman. She never has nervous prostration. She is never fidgety. She does not know what it is to be un-~ easy or out of sorts. Though fiery in temperament she Is of the peaceful sort. And she is a womin who keeps her health and her complexion. The result of resting ■when one does not feel like working is shown more quickly in the complexion than In any other way. The woman who has a cold and who ven tures out with cold feet will surely have a red nose and a set of pimples. She will have an influenza and her chin will be broken out. She will speedily show the results of working when she is not well. Lives on Vegetarian Diet The Italian society woman has been called lazy. It nas been said of her that sfke rests every day in the year and she has been described as a garlic eating, greasy, lazy creature, whose whole beauty lies in her soulful eyes and in her fine walk. 35i Her diet is the most ; poetic iof all. Mrs.. '. Browning describes it as vegetarian. "We '; ; live on figs and ? sberbe^" said ; she. And. the Italian woman does | indeed live on these things, and on. a variety of fmit ; She has little meat, for meat is dear and } none too plentiful f nor i> cholce.'^iSS^^Sw ♦»♦ » ♦ ♦»♦♦♦-»-♦ »♦»«»»» »-»-♦-«-♦ -<,tJ sleeves is seen today, but those most in favor have rather the look of out side grills, as the prim little flounces are often put on to stand up. . Th#.,,, white sleeve fixings strictly up to data encircle the arm stiffly, a little below the elbow, where the smart sleeve ends. Charming upstanding ruffles of eoars« white muslin or stiff net, threaded with tinsel, deck the silk, satin and velvet sleeves of many of the beautiful im ported gowns. Not uncommonly the lingerie portion of the sleeve emerges from a trimming in the gown texture, which creates a very definite under sleeve look. No details are more reviving to a passe gown than are fresh little wash able gamps and white undersleeved. The pattern houses supply becoming models for both, and aided by these excellent guides the deft needlewoman can. at odd moments turn out the daintiest accessories. French lawn is an excellent material foF all-round wear, combined with a good quality of imitation "Valenciennes. Linen but tons of the tiniest sort should be used for fastenings. —Mary Dean. Aady beautiful and ocr Vanity $ag nujILLADI BEAUTIFUL of 1905 never |jum| ventures forth from her boudoir without a kit of preening tools neatly bestowed in some- compact littla case. She may carry it dangling In heavy gold or silver from her wrist or from the chain about her neck. She may have it folded in her hand in a flat envelope bag of supple leather or tapestry, or she may have it tucked away in the spacious lin-fng of a dainty opera bag. Certain it is, however, that this vanity case will accompany her wherever she goes, be she on calling, shopping or amusement bent. Gold and silver vanity cases, which in shape and size loofflike metal cigar ette holders, contain on one side of the interior a beveled mirror, while half of the other side is a tightly covered com partment for powder and wee face puff, with a celluloid memorandum and pen cil on the other half and a spring for holding nickels. This case is suspend ed from the wrist, and is heavy enough" to give a knockout blow to a pick pocket. Less pretentious are the small metal acorns which dangle from the long neck chain. These hold a tiny mirror inside their cap and a doll's powder puff in their body. For receptions one woman carries a smart envelope bag in white leather lined with white watered silk and fast ened by two gold clasps. This Is the size of a man's full-length bill holder, and looks like two envelopes with the same lower edge. The triangular flap of the lower envelope is brought over and clasped on one half of the top en velope, while the flap of the latter fast ens on the remaining half. The top en velope contains a leather case tor call ing cards and one for change. The lower envelope is lined with silk pock ets holding a gold vanity minor, a scented powder paper and a thin cut frla.ss bottle of smelling salts. The 3« envelope bags are very handsome when built from silk tapestry woven in delN cate colors and finished with mother-* of-pearl and gold mountings. A fa vored mounting is a narrow band of gold or silver on which is seated, neat one corner, a lady of Japan. Another handy case for calling trip*' has a mirror on its full-length flap. The case has several silk lined com partments, one of which holds the wm puff, a slip of court plaster, a nail fit* and eyebrow brush. Then there is tha clasp c'ompartnient for money and an other for cards and postage stamps. These cases cqme in highly glazed leather of green or tan, also in block. lavender or pale blue suede. One verjß fetching case was built of untanne<t calfskin showing the delicate yelloir and white markings of Jersey kine, and was Lined with white taffetas iv yellow rospbud design. Voluminous silk opera bags are fli-% ted out with vanity mirror, powder papers and eyebrow brush, as are also the novelty opera cases from Paris. Of the latter a striking importation shows strips of scarlet suede Inter woven to form the cover which hold* a pair of the new flat opera glasses, & gold bonboolerre for puff and powder, a pocket for theater tickets and ona tag. change.