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«[ -'• nf'''-^ J- _ >-^Ti' » *.. %*\ V Atj&t -fe "'TV »|> -> j^'^^rjy^^ „OTol ««''' r^^% V >-^—». . s^*^iA * ejF^' ___^^^\W mP$ t AX. \ Q. e *ere* I \^______\\W y*: THIS period of soft materials fab- W. lies that have long been out of fa- I vor emerge from their ' seclusion *In •' renewed beauty and Instantly find favor with those -who know the true .In wardness and artistic requirements' in matters sartorial. . Among | the lovely euppie materials so absolutely , suitable for the development of present modes Is silk warp. Henrietta. It Is not transparent, yet. it is as sheer and light as veiling, but], of stronger, texture. It comes in all the. new shades and is unsurpassed in the exquisite finish. The '•*' Parisian . dress-' makers have turned out ""some 'of the loveliest of their spring creations, in this material, and there is no . doubt that It will - continue in _ favor while present shapes ln garments remain the mode. Our Easter . Girl - finds herself arrayed in' a charming costume of ' silk warp henrletta In "soft, delicate green—greens In all shades, \by the by, will be greatly in vogue. ; The wide skirt'ls-long and laid In four groups of three'deep plaits on each side, these being j stitched flat j to half-way between waist .and -^ knees and jailor-pressed to the deep hem; just below the knees a five-inch;tuck is laid around the- entire skirt The bolero ap pears in nine out often of the newest costumes, but in such new and alto gether attractive forms that it resembles the bolero of the past only in name. This -particular bolero Is laid in plaits front, and back, the under-arm seam be ing . joined- in with the fitted and well featherboned lining, below which appears the girdle of folded matched silk. The rounded edge of the little coat Is finished by a narrow silk ruffle! headed by. a cord, which is also" attached to the lining.^Tbe little jacket runs up In a point at. the back showing the girdle, which is trim med with large embroidered velvet but tons, while a couple of jeweled buttons seem to hold the jacket to 7 the girdle. In front the Jacket is arranged in sur plice style, a row of Jeweled buttons run ning from the girdle to above the bust," where the jacket is cut out in a waved three-quarter neck effect, edged with the silk ruffles. * The guimpe is of applique lace, lightly appliqued with delicate green, the deep featherbone stock being finished with an embroidered velvet band matching the buttons. This touch of Ivy green is very smart The sleeves are Just a big bishop puff set in stitched plaits at the elbow, where a cuff turns back over them, this scalloped and edged with a silk frill, deep lace falling over a fittted lace undersleeve. - * .-_.■' , The drop skirt is of match taffeta with princess haircloth laid. in the hem, the ruffles being decorated with insets of lace and set on in tucks. •■•'- 7 -* ....:',. '... Shiny black kid shoes are worn over perfectly,"matched . stockings; but though gloves to match are worn -7with many costumes, white or pearl gray are quite correct . A word as to the Easter hat sent with this toilette: The only thing matching the costume in this was a wreath of dark green velvet loops which edged, a big bunch of .Parma violets. The hat was a very large one of. ecru silk fiber braid, : with low, wide crown; the left brim was fully 12 inches deep arid flared directly up, even the crown being raised on a deep bandeau—a fine hat to give height to a short girl. The right brim was folded up on the crown and held by the violets, tulle to match being draped In folds 'all around the brim. Poised on the bandeau on the left were two hand some ecru and white ostrich feathers, the tips curling back over the brim, the 1 stems hidden under a cluster of violets and velvet Naturally, a colffura hair net would cover the hair when this hat is worn, as a veil is utterly impossible with such a shane. r . „ It is not at all necessary for hats to match costumes,7 but they must be in harmony. Indeed, th-5 hat matching the. costume is markedly absent from _. the Easter Girl's wardrobe, a perfect rain bow of colors taking Its place.-w 7 .^ ;-■'' It Is. a bright season, but colors and K||^;i|||||^||p The Long-Coat Suit in Taffeta. These . long-coat effects are very stun ning. The model is developed in Havana brown, the full plaited skirt hanging .within twelve Inches of the ground over a similarly plaited skirt. The blouse is very full - around, having ■ stitched plaits to . yoke; depth, gathered ' Into ' tho. THE ST. PAUL GLOBE. materials are both so soft that Inartistic effects are almost Impossible. Some of the silk warp henrletta models are quite simple, on the shirt-waist suit order, but the delicacy of the fabric gives even these a fine tone of distinction. This fab ric lends itself admirably, to the 1 pretty flat nun's folds and the finest shlrrings, or It may be in deep folds and graceful draperies over fitted linings, or arranged in blouse form under a well-boned girdle. The- long .graceful lines of the. newest skirts give ample scope- for the display of the elegant summer coats of white, cream or colored linen, ' with Insets and collars -of rich, heavy lace; but among the choicest new coats are some of all over.'; English eyelet embroidery which comes In lawn, linen and taffeta. Such a coat in sheer white linen had a 7 slip lining of-".white. Chint silk, with collar, revers arid deep cuffs'" of velvet, trimmed with embroidery and white linen cord.. The skirt of the coat was ampler of course, and the bodice -full all around, held In by .-a- shaped girdle 'of silk, 'this trimmed at the back with two large lace rosettes centered .by-Velvet "-buttons."-. This is a delightful garment to wear over the deli cate - fabric'costumes that are 7iri. store for the .summer. \7 - -.-u«^*." deep folded girdle which is made on - a feather-boned form, this being the only stiffened lining. The long, "wide, leg-o' mutton sleeves are- gathered Into two puffs, finished by a ruffled cuff :, at -the wrist The flat collar and ' fronts are trimmed "•* with * darker panne - and - passe menterie to match." The large'picture hat is- of white tulle 7 and - handsome lace, THE ST. PAUL GLOBE, APRIL 16, 1905. trimmed with plumes and uny pink and yellow roses. •-;-*. Low Evening * Coiffure With- Two Nets; r Nothing is more distressing to the up todate girl than to have her ; carefully dressed hair disarranged, . which is easily done In dancing, unless protected by an invisible colffura net . matching the hair In color - and fineness. One. covers the head, loosely, confining without crushing the locks, the '.' other covers, the pretty puffs low on the nape. Two pretty rib bon ornaments give Just the right finish to this charming coiffure. -V* *_-.- Evening Coiffure With Net and Combs. . —' This" shows one of the newest styles of coiffure; the huge pompadour is. passe, the lower, softer arrangem<>*-.» succeed- j i Ing it The hair Is very slightly ondule, : and dressed with a coquettish side ef fect, drawn back with ** a natural effect j of ease and grace, and gathered Into sev | eral pretty coils or puffs at .the nape of ; the. neck, • with shell combs. disposed at sides and back. Tha Protecting Net " Covers AIL :. This looks like. a very simple coiffure, but -It* Is ."a 7 revival of * the', old-time.- chig non, the ; modern idea,-however, "being artistic and 7 graceful; ■ a . small jeweied., comb holding the upturned hair at the back well up.. A large, fine colffura feet covers the entire hair,-even taking in the fascinating little curls that fall on the •brow.7 restraining, yet not crushing, the prettily dressed locks that form a soft: .setting for the face. Easter Costume of Henrietta and / Lace. Th}s charming model is of silk warp | henrietta ln light reseda green. The skirt is of the new umbrella cut, set on a deep yoke, . the . hem finished with tucks. The elaborate corsage Is made over a fitted featherboned lining, a bolero effect be ing obtained by wide folded bands which are laid over a cream lace fichu', this fall ing cut on the right from behind a front plastron, the lace . showing through em broidered silts. The' simple three-quarter sleeves are finished with lace. Beautiful empire hat of white tulle, pale pink roses and foliage,: with long ribbon ties. Becoming Empire Bonnet. Very quaint and fetching are these old time . chapeaux. This model * Is -of fine yellow Dunstable braid, the crown sup plied by the . wired lace, the - edge * of which falls over a wreath of ribbon loops and twists, - carried as ties to the ears of the bonnet, a wide, flat bow finishing the back. - Tho inside. Is laced with ' shirred tulle,.: with - a cluster of; hyacinth, bios- i *-*" '■ 7 I * - --.M - I TK£PQOTECTWC, iYET COVERS ALL. soms on the left The coils of the low. coiffure are covered by", an Invisible net, another protecting the locks In front. Comfort Robe of ■ China Silk. Of beautiful design, lilies and - leaves, with thfelr long waving -stems, in cool, restful rose, "green arid russet tints on a cream ground, ls this, handsome "com fort" klmona. The long plain " bands 7- of . white are quite Japanese, but the gath ered shoulders i give it Just .7 a touch -of - western"- mode. - Beautiful ; lawns come la much the same designs, and fine soft flannels, for cooler times, or after the bath. These robes are an Indispensable part of a. woman's wardrobe. *. Dainty Lingerie Waist. This petty; yet simple waist is only one of many In a variety of designs, but all showing the self-embroidery, a combin ation of the English eyelet, and tho French raised work, on fine linen lawn. The fine Maltese lace medallions set in front are decorated with a lot of hand work; the mltalne cuffs of the simple bishop sleeves and the pretty stock aro of Valenciennes Insertion and lace with stitched bands between. The girdle Is of fine white kid with deep slide of Jewel set gold. Silk-Warp Henrietta in Golden ■ Brown. This exquisite Parisian costume has the wide circular skirt hung on an up per section which is fitted to the hips by tiny tucks. The lower part Is cut in points which are set on with clusters of. tucks and finished with a corded ruffle of match silk. There are wide box plaits from waist to hem at back, held by ro settes" and -a panel in front. The beau tifully-fitted corset is Moused in front and hooks to the left of the back, the J decolletage being trimmed with the cord ed silk and'flat, wrinkled rosettes of the same. The shaped girdle is finished with gathered sash ? ends, and runs to • a deep point ln | front The -sleeves, are held by rosettes above the elbow, a. kilted bell of / the » silk 7. falling ;. below; ;' gulmpe".-; and. undersleeves are*of;fine* repousse lace.